Backwards Compatible PS3 CECHC03 YLOD £14 from Auction | Can we get it working? | UK eBay Reseller
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- čas přidán 22. 02. 2021
- We bought a Backwards Compatible PS3 - CECHC03 with a YLOD for £14 from an online auction.
In this video we are trying to fix the backwards compatible PS3 with a YLOD by replacing the NEC TOKIN capacitors.
I'll let you into a secret, it kinda worked... and it kinda didn't...
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IPA Isopropyl Alcohol - amzn.to/3j1PupR
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Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner - amzn.to/3dGxJvO - Jak na to + styl
Anyone with the dedication and patience to do all that ....... and still forge on, deserves subscription, 10/10 Sir.
Thank you, I appreciate that. 👍
@@RetroElectronicRepair same here!
YLOD due caps is less than 10%, most likely always caused by RSX, the only permanent fix is replacing the RSX from the slim version. Only worth for backwards compatible ps3.
can you actually replace it with the slim version? As it's not the same chip
@@ProfessorShroom You can and you should as its the only permanent fix. It's the same BGA only differs voltages, but there's a mod chip to fix that.
@@newklear2012 you now do it without modchip
Brilliant thinking outside the box approach and top result, well done 👍
Thank you
Hey, man - nice video! I apprrciate you showing the entire process.
I've been working my way through PS3 repairng over abiut 4 PS3s now, three of which are documented on my channel, Makes and Mods. I started with very similar yellow tantulums. Once it resulted in a fix just as yours started and I was stoked! Sadly, it only lasted for about a couple hours of playing the remastered God of War Saga collection and watching blurays for about two weeks and then the YLOD returned. I also had a few of those cheap yellow tantulums pop on me so be careful!
I've since switched to Panasonic tantulums and never had any pop, but sadly no more luck with the repairs yet. Another guy, NSC Modz, has excellent videos showing how he delids the CPUs and GPUs and repastes them with great success. He also replaces some of the NECs but it appears as though he argues that the delids are more successful. Might be worth a shot 😁
I'll certainly be trying to replace all the NECs and deliding both chips in the near future! Good luck on your continued efforts, and thanks again for showing the good and bad!
you are right in this front deliding could help however might need to go futher by either installing a pot switch or install software to regulate fan speed to give it more cooling now i am also hearing that standing the console vertical instead of horizontal also can help.
Really informative tutorial, thank you for taking the time to create. I have two of these PS3s which both have the yellow light of death issue so going to give this a try.
czcams.com/video/I0UMG3iVYZI/video.html
Your case is very likely the capacitors, playing The Last of Us is a very demanding game and puts a lot of stress on the capacitors to feed clean current onto the chips (specifically the GPU).
I would go to replace ALL the capacitors with higher quality low ESR caps.
You’ll notice that your ps3 shuts down when playing a GPU demanding game and not CPU demanding games (when you played ps1/ps2 games). The way I see it, you need better/more capacitance on the GPU
Thank you I was going to replace all the GPU ones as a last ditch effort. I might just get the tantalums out of a PS3 slim I have that won't update as the WiFi chip mosfet or board is bad.
I admire your devotion to the job. I also have a ylod ps3 bc compatible. But not sure I would have the patience to try and swap those bloody capacitors out. Fascinating to watch all the same. Thanks for sharing
Thank you
Mine got YLOD 2 Days Ago and I am sure its the Capacitor Issue As I had CFW on That Thing and I made sure that The Temps Didn't Exceed 61C But I Would Definitely Do this if I knew How to Soldier Because I am Just a 17-year-old Brat Who Is Capable Of doing (and Has Done) Reapplying New Thermal Paste.(Artic MX-4 To Be Exact.
@@wanderingsoul621 it’s not hard
@@revokednetwork4212 Yes it is, changing the necs is a hard thing, besides its most likely not the necs
@@wanderingsoul621 The 90nm RSX is defective... don't rush to conclusions because the issue being the necs is very slim
Nice video you can also try removing the headspreaders the cpu and rsx and repaste them
Nice job mate. Thanx.
Thank you
You need to delid the cpu and gpu and replace the thermal paste inside. Delidding the Rsx is easier, so try that first and as a last resort try and delid the cell. Do alot of researh om delidding. It is very tricky and I ended up destoying my ps3.
Nice attempt. I bet if you eliminate all NEC TOKIN caps, you'll get it working again 👍 We know now that these caps are pretty bad, and killed many Toshiba laptops as well.
Not true. The majority are still cause by RSX related issues
Just hook up ttl signals from syscon chip to usb adaptor and check out the error codes. In this particullar model usually responsible is the rsx chip/solder balls.
Yes I have one now and have done some other videos on using it.
it will be work, but you have to change all nec tokin around rsx chip and it should be fixed, i fix few of them with same probleme. Cheers!
Good stuff 👍
Psx-place has the guide of the proper solution.. you have also replace the tantalum caps on under side, beside the rwx gpu and cell be processor, make sure that both positive side has a bridge awg wire solder on it
If u ask why u need to brige bith postive side? Because nectokin has internal bridging on it, if you put a tantlum caps, you might as well do it via wire bridgibng
Yes I've read all of that. Was trying a couple before doing them all. I've had success on another ps3 by just changing 1 of the rsx NEC tokins with just 10 100uf smd ceramic caps.
That thread now claims (falsely) that the capacitors are not to blame.
The pictures of crooked capacitors and automotive wiring in that thread are nauseating. As are the claims of expertise and anecdotal evidence pretending to be scientific evidence.
NSC Modz is an obnoxious CZcamsr, but his method of scraping the solder mask for negatives is a big improvement over mounting them crooked.
Heartbreaking after all that for it not to work properly, you have the patience of a saint lol
You really need some patience with this stuff lol
@@RetroElectronicRepair haha yeh definetly
The RSX might be failing. Could stand to syscon it and double check.
Yeah this is an old video now. I still have the console and think I read the syscon and got the 3034 error plus the 4021? I think it was.
You don't need to remove the Nectokin, you can add the tantalum capacitors in parallel which works perfectly and you don't spend so much time.
do you have any pics/more detail about that ?
Care to share any tutorial you have like this? Pics or video
At the end of my last video I add a tantalum this way. czcams.com/video/M2VC6lVBe_w/video.html
Go to 55 mins.
very interesting watch
Thank you
Heat up the RSX to 120c for 5 minutes with something, should fix the connection between the silicon die and interposer for a few months at least. Graphics chips from this period used especially fragile high lead solder bumps and the underfill material that should reinforce them went soft at 70c and a lot of devices ran far hotter than that including the PS3, its also why laptops were most affected while desktop pcs not as much.
What are good replacement capacitors.
My ps3 60gb cechc04 has the same problem shut down in heavy games like gran turismo 6 but in other games like fifa I play for hours and zero shut down
remove the IHS from the RSX and replace the thermal paste
I've tried that before with other machines and it's made no difference. I think this one is dead now, it was quite a while ago.
When will it come part 2??
I've heard reballing the BGA on the GPU is one surefire way of getting good results for longevity. Most of the 'old' fixed were just a basic heatgun reflow, which only last a few weeks until it gave up again.
that is actually false. the rsx chip has the same defect as the red ring of death xbox 360, there is no fix except replacing the chip with one that doesnt have the defect (40nm chip) these caps are just a secondary cause.
thanks for the tip.
Same scenario with me, after I replaced on single Nec tokin with 3pieces of tantalum caps 470uf 6.3 on GPU side,
it YLOD Gone but when I attempt to play TLOU1 it shuts off while the game is loading. The last thing I did to be able to fix it, I add 2 tantalum capacitors on CPU side with the same rate of cap, luckily it works and I was able to finish the Left Behind DLC of TLOU without any interruption anymore, so try to add capicitors under the CPU circuit
is it not a problem adding 6.5v capacitor insted 2,.5
No it isn't a problem, the voltage is just the maximum voltage the capacitor can handle. It is not the actual voltage a capacitor outputs.
Have u ever done a reball? Or considered doing a video on making a Frankenstein ps3?
No I've never done a reball. I would need an expensive reballing machine to get the RSX off. Not thought about a Frankenstein PS3 yet, I've watched videos on it but not thought about trying it yet.
I’d have said it was bad paste under the 2 IHS. It’s only going off under load so overheating
Maybe. I would have thought the fans would ramp up if there was any overheating though.
You should probably delid the CPU and RSX.
Thank you for the video! nice job!
I want to ask which of the Nec Tokin should I replace? I have watched many video and by chance, the first couple of Nec Tokin replaced always works perfectly, although there are eight of them in total!
It's usually the first 2 NEC tokins on the RSX side. Some say that's because they get run harder and has less cooling on those 2.
@@RetroElectronicRepair guess what, I got so excited on replacing the caps when the tantalums I ordered came. I mistakenly replaced all necs at the front side of the board 😂 the result was still YLOD. Then I had 4 tantalums left so I replaced one nec tokin at the back side of the board, still YLOD. Until I replaced the thermal paste of the RSX chips, it's now working but only temporary because of the hot air I applied to the RSX 🥴. The FT232R I ordered just came today, I'll be using it to diagnose the problem specifically
That's a shame. Sounds like it could be the RSX. If you have any electrolytic caps you can test wether changing the tokins will work. I have the ft232r usb to serial adapter. I should really do a video on it. I had a PS3 that the ft232r told me was the RSX so I tested it by adding my test caps and it made no difference so I believe the ft232r was right that it was the RSX and not the tokins
@@RetroElectronicRepair when can you upload your video about it? Maybe I can wait for your video hahahah but if it's the RSX that needs a reball, I'm not sure if I can do it. Idk how to reball yet 😳.
@@RetroElectronicRepair I bought 10 more tantalums though, It's still shipping. I should've bought 20 more pcs. because my plan is to replace all the nec tokins hahaist 😐 but yeah I still wanna diagnose it thru the FT232R. I wanna watch you do it 😂✌️
dont use the caps or what ever only the nec tokin chips they die due to heat. so instead of the black pad put a thermal sticker on them nod case mods needed and they dont help anyway.
It's not always the nec that cause these issues.
Got a CECHC03 that update looped and stuck at 50% , tried tevery option even in safe mode, can’t detect an update file, can’t detect a different HDD to rebuild the database and OS.
Really stumped it was JB on Rebug 4.81
I've never had one with that problem, so I can't help unfortunately. It's sounds strange that it won't detect a new HDD.
@@RetroElectronicRepair my biggest fear is it bricked itself on a NAND level ,
Don’t have a E3 flasher to flash the nand thus preventing me from rebuilding the OS or even detecting a HDD?
Do you think it’s worth having a look at for me? Thanks
My ps3 has the YLOD but it’s a mild case If that makes sense like after 4 or 5 tries it loads up no problem can play for hours finally decided to fix it do you think it could have faulty capacitors or cpu needs to be re balled?
Neither. It needs a new gpu.
Good video but It’s overheating because you need to delid the RSX and CELL chips cause the paste gets really dry
It's not overheating.
Oh maybe use tantalum capacitors
I have. Have you watched the video? I put tantalums on it.
@@RetroElectronicRepair i will watch it
Should have delidded the CPU and GPU to change the thermal paste underneath the heat spreaders. Then the fan will be quieter and more heat will come out so you know it's doing its job. I normally use kryonaut paste but now they have kryonaut extreme as the highest thermal conductivity. Nice job tho none the less. I'd also normally clean the disc drive and reapply white lithium grease to the plastic gears to make them smooth.
I see you've got a UART and delid update. I'm checking it out now.
I'm not sure if I renewed the thermal paste on this one, it was a while ago. I usually put new thermal paste on and clean the drive off camera before selling them The video would be too long if I showed everything.
@@RetroElectronicRepair well yeah that's why I like your videos. They're to the point and there are plenty of other videos that show all the easy stuff.
Ps3 fat need around 2800 uf in each lines gpu and cpu maybe is the reason behind of failure when you put a game like last of us in the br drive maybe need tantalum on the gpu line try to interconect all of them using a wire in paralell sorry about my bad english mainly i speak spanish ..
You're English is good. I think this unit died now. I have done some others where I just piggy back 1 tantalum cap and got it working.
@@RetroElectronicRepair Got an SYSCON log to make sure it's dead? Unless there are 3034 and 4402 by the lots, then it should still work. (assuming you might have to replace the bottom side caps too, though.)
Does the silicone mat fry the motherboard? Cuz my mat is making the hair on my arms stand up due to static and I'm concerned about using it to fix my ps3.
I've never had any static from my silicon mat. Wipe it with a damp cloth to try and remove the static. A proper ESD mat is made from special rubber that is anti static but they can be expensive. I wouldn't use that mat if it has that much static in it.
@@RetroElectronicRepair I'll try that, thanks.
Yea, I just got it today and could feel the static instantly. Maybe it'll dissipate. I left it on the dryer cuz it's metal, hoping that helps.
I'll try the damp cloth, and maybe some dryer sheets too.
Cool, thanks. Cheers
I found one from trash. I will get it working
i think it would be worth your while reflowing the cpu & gpu. the main culprit for ylod is normally the rsx chip. nice video tho
looks to me that you just need to delid the IHS and apply paste directly on the chips.
Can you elaborate?
@@01wwjr Search on YT for Delid PS3. Plenty of video guides on here.
@@MarcVado Ok I thought you were referring to something else. Thanks.
Nope, just to replace all caps
Have had my ps3 backward since 2007 never had a problem neverhook to on line played last of us for ever never had one problem played red dead redemention no problem in October of 2021 decided to clean inside dust dirt no problem unit ran quite moved from living to bedroom played last of us then red dead redemption let sit like I have on standby since 2007 didn’t play for a week or more in Jan of 2022 got the light I thought it was red then went to green than flashing red so 14 years no problem with system have put new thermal paste have not used heat gun yet I have taken very good care of this unit no kids no lady friend plays only me so I have the 477. 6.2 volt capacitors will soon replace nec chips but in mean time bought a same unit 50.00 dollars red light changed thermal past heated up capacitators the unit is working now. On my unit I have the Sysco chip to check my error codes before I do any thing else to it to see what caused the red light
tal vez tu problema sea rebaling tambien no solo los condensadores amigo intenta hacer rebaling al CPU y al GPU y luego prueba
If I had a reflow machine I would try that. Thank you.
Hey do you have any updates ? I have a ceche01 with the same problem. I replaced all the capacitors on the RSX and bridged them (16 tantalums) and I still can’t run the last of us, it shuts down. I even reflowed and delid the RSX and cpu and still not running the game. I’m considering doing the cpu nec tokins now…
The machine is worse than before now. I decided the RSX and changed the CPU caps and now it won't start up at all. Not sure what the problem is now.
@@RetroElectronicRepair Im going to try to bridge all the tantalums to see if that makes a difference. I will let you know if that helps. Thanks for replying
yikes... No checking the syscon? straight up going with the replacement of the necs and using electrolytic caps!
That's a really old video. I check Syscon now and only used those electrolytics before just to test if it was the tokins.
@@RetroElectronicRepair I see, good to hear you check syscon now! :)
Great video 👍 try 4 capacitors on each.
I did
@@RetroElectronicRepair did it work?
It's in the video at 48:17, I show you it with 4 caps on each.
@@RetroElectronicRepair You only did two man. There's 4 on each side of the motherboard. You have to replace them all for a 100% stable machine
Any updates on how this project ended up?
Good video by the way
Not yet, no matter what I try it is the same. I do have a reader now that I need to try out and see if I can read the internal error codes.
@@RetroElectronicRepair thanks for the reply. Im about to start a capacitor replacement on my CHECHA PS3. I did the heat gun method and brought it back to life a month ago, but it died on me again, playing PSX games.
Yes that reheat method is a myth. You're just heating up the caps witch gives them some of their capacitance back for a very short period of time.
@@RetroElectronicRepair sadly yes. I was hopeful it would last longer.
@@RetroElectronicRepair just brought it back by replacing one NEC cap in the back of the RSX.
Hello, can you send me a picture of the piece?
Sorry I'm not sure what piece you mean.
It needs more capacitor, the permanent fixed was 32pcs in total, 8pcs per nec tokin, and also bridge high awg postive side of both terminals... I hope you can make the part 2 of this..
I was making part 2 but it has died completely now. Not even getting lights. Power supply is fine and switches on when using jumper wire to test it. Might just be a fuse but when I get it working again I'll carry on with part 2.
@@RetroElectronicRepair Part 2, please and thank you.
@@RetroElectronicRepair what happened is that the flex cable from mobo to pcb that has the power and eject got damaged. Happened to me too, replace it and you'll be grand. That is why it has no power led etc. And as others told you, you need 4 to reach the 1300, so four (4) 470 caps 2.5-6v tantalums. That ps3 will then definitely work.
Yeah the flex cable was split but tried cutting it down and stripping plastic coating off but still not working. It does show 5v going to the PCB but maybe something isn't connected properly. I have tried 4 tantalums on each and 5 on each but still wasn't fully working with last of us. That's when the PS3 seemed to die but need to fully check the flex cable or get a new one.
@@RetroElectronicRepair if you have a spare cechk/j ps3s they have a flex ribbon cable that connects from usb pcb to mobo. I used to count the gold tracks and then cut with scissors to make flex cables for that pcb you need. They need some playing but to test out they're good. Just a suggestion, usually in forums you find that you need 2.5v tantalums, I find that 6v ones are better, a little bit extra voltage actually helps. For all fats i use 4 x 470uf 6v tantalums from AliExpress and for slims i use one less, so 3 x 470 uf 6v.
When you removed the nec/tokens they were yellowish/ yellow stains or white? If they were white they would have been okay. If they have yellow stains, maybe they need replacement. If they're yellow almost burnt they need replacement for sure. I usually carefully remove the plastic cover to check the colour.
I think the RSX is dying, NEC TOKIN isn't actually as common as people suggested. About 90% cause of YLOD is RSX failure, 5% is just nec tokin, and other 5% is other components like south bridge and others on the board.
If you'd like to check what's the issue with your console specifically you can use syscon uart method to diagnose it. If you see 3034 code(last 4 digits), that means RSX failure, and not nec tokin caps.
czcams.com/video/b_rFE4Apssc/video.html
(nec tokin cause has different last 4 digis code, I cannot remember which is it now)
@@BeinZilex that's a common myth, in order to be able to confirm that you first run a syscon uart diagnostic ALWAYS , if it shows code that relates to vrm failure then it's nec tokin
I'd love to know how to run a syscon uart diagnostic. Do you know of any good guides?
@@RetroElectronicRepair Sure thing, here you go
www.psx-place.com/threads/tutorial-research-nec-tokin-capacitors-replacement-ylod-fix.25260/page-192#post-295119
czcams.com/video/ZvqJQVd5pBY/video.html
I wish you best of luck, if you need any help let me know.
If you don't want to enter commands manually via CMD, you can also install the .exe file provided in the description of the video I linked in my first comment. That way the software will do it for you and you just get the error logs when you connect to the PS3 syscon by soldering your cable at the right spot.
what solder grade did you use for soldering?
It was Weller leaded solder EL60/40
@@RetroElectronicRepair thank you!
every single original model ps3 is scratched to hell and back and thats (probably) a fact
I think you're (probably) right.
You still only replaced 4 out of 8 caps. Replace all of them and bridge the positive terminals. It will work fine.
Yes I was going to do that in part 2. I also had another one where I've only replaced 1 cap with smd ceramic caps just for kicks and it works perfectly. Now that's a strange one.
@@RetroElectronicRepair You heated the other TOKINS in the process, console will die it's just a matter of time. Tokins temporarily regain their capacitance when heath applied. There is a 180 page long thread on PSX Place go an have a look a lot of tips there.
Yeah I've read a lot of that thread, was going to change them all out on the rsx side.
@@nothingandmore That’s a faulty claim based on conjecture.
If heat fixes capacitors, then why don’t they start working under normal operation? Why aren’t they fixed by overheating instead of being killed off?
Capacitors LOSE capacitance when they overheat. Makes no sense.
@@suspendedhatch how many ps3 have you done this to then? I’ve must have been through 30 easily. Besides NEC TOKIN is not a casual cap it’s a prodalizer.
How much u charge to fix these things
I do it more as a hobby so don't fix these for anyone else, I'm not an expert. Sorry
DONT DO THAT THATS NOT THE MAIN REOSEN ITS THE GPU THE CONNECTION ARE BREAKING SO YOU NEWD TO CHANCHE THIS INTO 40nm BECAUSE THE 60 and rx 90nm was in the timeline where they had the issues
That is a very old video. I now use syscon to read the error codes, I have some later videos of how to use it.
you need to delid rsx and cpu , the paste under the ihs is bad
Yeah I think that's the next step as adding more caps on the rsx gives me the same results
@@RetroElectronicRepair Same problem sir
@@RetroElectronicRepair
did you find solution??
100% the solution
No no no wrong
omg lmao im having same issue just as yours did you ever get it fix ? i can play fifa or any ps2 game . but last of us or god of war kills my ps3 fat
Hi, it sounds like yours may be the NEC Tokins capacitors. I have fixed a few PS3 fat models by changing them to tantalum caps. There are many videos out there showing you how to change them but it is a big job for a novice
@@RetroElectronicRepair yes im very new to this some guy charge $ 150 on ebay.. to change nec tokins.. what do you recommend me to start at next to the gpu nec tokin or on the other side 2 nec tokin tokin ?
I would start by changing the 2 on the RSX chip on the opposite side of the board to the chip.
@@RetroElectronicRepair can you please check your Instagram dm.
Done
Well, since now video is OUTDATED, I'd like to remind you that you need to delid CELL/RSX and use UART USB and SYSCON to identify exact issue.
Sinceresly yours, Captain Obvious.
Yeah, I already have newer videos using syscon.
"tan-tah-lum" capacitors... If two of those special caps were bad, it is likely the others are bad as well.
I knew someone would pick up on me saying it wrong lol
@@RetroElectronicRepair Sorry about that... But you were just so wonderfully inconsistent in your pronunciation that I had to comment! ;-)
No worries lol
No expert but it might be worth looking into reflowing the GPU and the CPU.
I don't see how it would be them. It shouldn't work at all if the CPU or GPU solder balls weren't all connected.
Nice try. Respect!
Use of token capacitors was a foolish decision by Play Station in PS3
Excelente trouble shooting...
Thank you
its overheating.....you need to remove the heat spreaders that are glued onto the chips and put on new thermal paste under there...or else it will keep overheating
It's not overheating. The fans don't run fast.
Its not
There is no profit here. You could only get about £50 for this? So once you take into account a cheap hourly wage at £10 you take 2 hours or so to fix it up. And pay PayPal fees etc you make only a few pounds maybe?
This is a backwards compatible PS3 they play all PS1, 2 & 3 games, the new PS3's only play PS1 & 3 and some PS2 games.. They are one of the first ones ever made and are rare to find in working condition. This model can sell for up to £100 with a controller and a couple of games. You see a lot of people selling a PS3 saying it's backwards compatible but they are not. If it has 4 usb ports it's a true backwards compatible model. And it's model is cechc03 the US had the CECH A & B models that were hardware emulation where as the Europe had CECH C that was software emulation. This is more about getting it working as a hobby and probably keep as it is kind of a collector's item. It's not always about the profit, I'll just be really happy if I get it working properly.
It’s not always about profit dude, the amount of hours I’ve put into repairs just for fun. It also keeps things out of landfill too!
Exactly! I enjoy fixing things and like you say keeps it out of landfill when sometimes it's an easy 20p fix.
90nm cpu and gpu .alwayes fail soon . just after 2010 ps3 is good
Yes I've read a lot about that since I made this video.
Wrong. I own 2x 65nm CPU and GPU units and both are just as reliable. The 90s are the only ones that are highly unreliable.
Dead RSX
Yep, I reckon so, like many of these dat models.
@@RetroElectronicRepair I have a checha01 backwards compatible that still works and I delidded it, regularly change the paste, and modded a custom fan curve so the RSX always stays under 58C.
Runs louder but prevents it from dying and inevitable death.
Nice. That's a good one to own. People don't look after their consoles, it's heartbreaking. So many that are full of dust and just overheated and killed.
@@RetroElectronicRepair yeah I got fresh thermal pads a couple years ago on them too, since the old ones were probably a decade old and crappy.
This isn't a capacitor problem! Reflow the CPU and GPU with a heat gun. 👍
Surely if it was a CPU or GPU problem it wouldn't even turn on after changing the caps.
@@RetroElectronicRepair Trust me!!! I've done loads of these fixes. 🤣
Have you got a link to a video of how to do this please?.
@@3um3le3ees If you research the topic you’d know that the heat gun fix only works because you’re essentially “recharging” the capacitance of the dead tokin caps. If he replaced more caps, I bet it’d be fine.
When I finish part 2 we'll hopefully see what happens. I have tried more caps on the rsx which didn't work. it either needs full rsx cap replacement or the cell caps are failing too.
He is replicating an early ps3 repair attempt video made by an amateur.
This is an example of one of the traps of relying solely on CZcams as an authority and not coming up with anything original in your repair.
He didn’t look for more recent videos on the same topic.
He didn’t expand out to videos not directly related to PS3.
As a result it’s just a rehash video and it’s no surprise that the repair failed.
To do this properly: Get the correct capacitors! DO NOT use cylindrical capacitors, they do not fit and they are just begging for a short.
Use surface mount caps, 2.5v or slightly higher, totaling 1300uF for each capacitor replaced. Folks typically use 4x tantalum capacitors, but the original style would be easier if you can find them new.
DO NOT mount Tantalums crooked as shown in later videos. Solder the positives to the positive bar (outermost), scrape away some of the green solder mask for the negative sides. The entire board underneath the mask is a ground.
Use a heat gun for soldering, temperature around 350F.
Reference component surface mounting videos not related to PS3 for an example of the technique.
De-lid the CPU and GPU and replace the thermal compound and thermal paste.
Replace any missing or damaged thermal pads. These are found on smaller components throughout the board, especially on the PS2 chips.
You can often fix the ylod by replacing two caps on the RSX (GPU). Sometimes you have to replace all.
Rrod can indicate a need to replace the caps on the CPU, but remember that we are skipping diagnosis and gambling on a most common solution. It’s worth a shot.
While it is possible to retrieve the error codes, almost no one in the CZcams audience will have the expertise to make use of this info (myself included).
I’m aware that the discussion thread that kicked off this repair idea has since taken a turn and is now suggesting that the caps are not the cause of ylod, however, this has not been the case in the PS3s I have repaired. The person countering the claim offers nothing but anecdotal evidence to refute it. Given a large enough sample size, I’m confident that the original claim would be vindicated. NEC/Tokin capacitors failing not the GPU are the most common cause of ylod.
I did use 4 tantalum capacitors and it made no difference in TLOU game. It's easier to use copper tape instead of scraping away the green coating on the negative side which I will show when I do part 2. As for decapping the chips, do you think that is worth doing if the fan speed is staying on low? The fan doesn't increase in speed which made me think it's not a heat issue. I had another PS3 where I just had to replace 1 tokin with 4 tantalums and it works perfectly.