Klippering all my Enders (Even Steve!), with the Creality Sonic Pad!
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- čas přidán 5. 06. 2024
- Note: The Creality Sonic pad, and the Ender 5S1 were provided by Creality at no cost.
If you would like a sonic pad or an Ender 5S1, or hey, a creality K1, you might have heard of it, the following is an affiliate link and any purchases will help fund the channel: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=201599...
The Creality pad, a surprisingly efficient way to get started with klipper on pretty much any creality printer.
Watch as I go over what it is, what it's for, and what's involved in using it.
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"Lazy capable user" here....lol. Sometimes you don't have enough time in the day with family/work, so that's definitely me.
as someone who is barely dipping toes into firmware.. this is absolutely fantastic for a beginner. Installed mine on my Ender 3 V2 Neo and i absolutely love the entirety of this. Input shaping and linear advance is super easy to setup
5:55 Manual Steve Mode would make a good band name
Wow, they are really pushing this really hard. It would be interesting to compare this to the new Pad 7 from Bigtreetech which is not locked down like the Sonic Pad.
I am probably getting a Pad 7 so...hold that thought!
@@LostInTech3D Perfect
I would rather have a BTT pad 7 unseen than the Creality Sonic Pad!
That's a lot of faith in BTT haha, it does look good though
I have a pad 7 in the mail and 2 sonic pads at the house :)
I've got a Sonic Pad with a Ender 5 S1 already more than a month and it works awesomely since day 1 out of the box without issues. Yes, if you invest some time with Klipper config files you can manage to get it even better.
Im so glad someone finally said it....klipper IS hard to install even for those familiar with linux, putty, etc...
Just ordered my sonic pad to go along with a few other upgrades. Hoping I’m able to get it figured out how to get it all set up and dialed in. Going on an e3v2 with sprite pro, dual z, xr touch, extender 300 kit and linear rails.
The Creality Sonic Pad does seem like a pretty good device but as you point out, you can install Klipper on your own device to try it out. This is exactly what I did when I got back into 3D printing over a year ago but before the Sonic Pad was released. So I spent the proverbial weekend installing and figuring out Klipper. In my case I installed it on the creality box for each of my printers (an e3pro and an e3s1). Unfortunately it proved unrelaible on that platform (frequent cpu overloads). While I was using it I really appreciated the improved operation and access to features, plus the ability to run just about any webcam of it. Ultimately I reverted to using the creality boxes in stock mode for reasons of reliability. As I've always been more concerned with print quality over print speed, the drop in print speed using stock firmware is acceptable to me. If I ever get around to acquiring/building a high speed prototyping printer I will most certainly use Klipper then, and if they are cheap enough, with a Sonic Pad.
Steeve has never been this happy!
Now install CAN bus on it.
I'm definitely capable of figuring it out but with life being so damn busy, I lack the motivation to figure it out. I need an easy 1,2,3 guide.
I actually have one of these coming tomorrow. I just bought an Ender 3 S1 Pro last month(on Sale for $350USD). Since I'm so new to 3D printers, but want to just go all in, figured I'd get the Sonic Pad and start learning everything I can. Not to mention, I'm hoping I can at least halve my print times with it. And the screen on the S1 Pro, kinda sucks with it's limited menus and controls and all that.
P.S. I have an OLED Switch Grip printing as I type this. Though the Creality PLA I got with the printer is not the best quality. Luckily MatterHackers has a warehouse 20 minutes from my house(In the crappy York. York, Pennsylvania. Not New, nor Olde, just York) and I have some of their filament coming tomorrow too. I also ordered some Atomic Filament from Indiana to check them out. We'll see how that goes.
P.S.S And it took me 2 weeks to realize I need to drop my retraction distance to .5 and print at 215C, or else I get stringing and popping. But I'm getting as close to perfect parts any newbie probably can.
P.S.S.S Is the easiest way to get off PLA, that leaked past the nozzle and coated it after 2 days of use, just taking a torch(the fire kind) to it?
Just heat up the hotend after removing the sock and clean the nozzle with a small brass brush, good luck with the Sonic Pad you are about to learn how bad Creality are at programming things, and that they never fix mistakes, they try now and again but usually just create more problems and then give up.
hahaha, I think it works fine on the ender s1 pro tbh, if my plus is anything to go by.
I love your assessment the lazy capable user😅
I got vanilla klipper working with my E5 S1 once I found out how to solve that probing issue you found. I have been using unix probably since before linux was born though.
Fantastic video. Thanks for the walkthrough. I have an ender 3 neo max that fails about 2 hours into every print so I planned to do a klipper upgrade. Is that one of the supported printers? TIA
Ender 3 Max neo is on the printer list in the add screen, so that's a probably yes!
@LostInTech3D Thank You! It might have been in your video but I was watching on my phone. I’m hoping this resolves an issue I’m having with the Ender 3 Neo where it just gives a print interrupted message several hours into any print. I’ve tried upgrading to a much better SD card and also to using Octoprint with it, but same thing. I’m hoping maybe the Klipper firmware resolves this. I appreciate you checking, and making this video!
And here I was thinking I'd have to get a new printer before having to learn klipper 😅
Not sure if it's a Creality thing but on my Anycubic Vyper, I can save the z offset by saving it to the endstop
Thank you for the good overview with an honest and balanced approach. Any chance of getting your config file for the Ender 5 S1? Please and Thank you! 🙂
Yes I will have it uploaded today 👍
@@LostInTech3D Thank you very much!
Did you ever post a copy of your printer.cfg for Ender 5 s1? The one supplied with Sonic Pad is still wrong.
@@gerryrudolf2070 No, sadly I did not. Never could find it anywhere 😟
Having an 8-bit silent board in my 2019 Ender 5 Pro I'm not sure I could use the Sonic Pad. My concern going with Klipper is going to be my EZ ABL and my EZOUT my Ender 5 Pro has fitted.
If I could use the pad to connect a USB cable to flash the 5 Pro I'd likely give it a try.
I have a Sonic Pad running my Ender 3 Pro...love it.
Did you upgrade your main board or anything?
@@joewozniak2231 no. It has the 4.2.2 board.
@@jeffharrison5265 interesting. For some reason I was under the impression I would need a board upgrade. I have avoided that so far mainly cause I don’t think it’s worth it. I would rather throw 50 toward the sonic pad.
Klipper installation is a breeze using KIAUH script. There are basically only four command line commands to give, one to install KIAUH, one to run KIAUH, one to configure the necessary settings to build the Klipper firmware for your printer, and one to actually build the firmware.
KIAUH even has an option to dump the necessary serial port indentifier text to be pasted into the MCU section of your printer.cfg file.
I should do a Kiauh thing at some point, I keep forgetting it exists :D
Been a while since others have posted. I have the CR10 S4 and a new Sonic Pad. Is there a link I could go to to get the proper cfg files? I am new at this stuff so any help I would appreciate. Thanks!
Wavy metal means more surface area to dissipate heat.
Same reason car radiators are wavy.
The Sonic Pad does look an easy way to get Klipper working, rather than a Raspberry pi (or similar) approach
Question... If I've previously upgraded my Ender 3 Pro with a BTT control board, would I have to select "other printer" during initial setup? (In other words, does picking an existing Creality printer during setup only apply to unmodified, OEM configurations?). Thanks in advance!
All it really needs is a correct printer.cfg, which you can upload or edit in mainsail. I think you would use the "other" so that it connects properly, but yeah all it's doing is pre-setting the config files in the same way as you would with a klipper install on a BTT board, so you have to kind of refer to BTTs guides for the values. If that makes sense.
Question. I have a Steve... It's an ender 3 with a V2 silent mother board amd a sprite extruder. I just got my sonic pad and right off the bat it's having config problems. I'm not good with code and not sure what to do. When running the bed level mapping the first zone is about 2 inches off the bottom left hand corner. Help please.....
I do agree with you. Klipper isn't the best for a beginner. I'm as new as new comes to Klipper. It works but it's not great. I've been having raspberry pis since 2015 and never had a shortage, but you clearly have more experience than me. Thanks for the video. Just wish you would do a set up with a raspberry pi, no matter what I do I can't get my Pi 2 or 3 to even recognize my printer. Tried cables, tried everything the moment I plug in a pi four it immediately finds it. If anybody in the comments has an idea of why I can't get my version two or three to work, I'd really like to start a forum somewhere.
What if all the missing raspberry pis are in the Sonic pads
You'd be surprised how many cables you have to try before one works. It's almost always the cable. Oh and avoid the blue usb ports.
I have one, converted to vanilla Debian linux, runs a SOVOL SV06-Plus and Ender-3 V2. Works fine, but I'm gonna sell it and go back to an old Pi4 for one, simple reason: I need GPIO.
Edit: I also 'upgraded' the unit to the DietPi distro of linux because it is hands down the best, lightweight linux distro, but even its small footprint clobbered the 8GB internal storage, making klipper installation impossible.
Will this work for the OLD 8 or 16bit whatever Ender 5? Or would it require a board upgrade and custom configuration files?
ohhh um...yeah I forgot that old creality machines are running 8 bit boards. You'd have to check with creality, but the ender 5 plus is on there which it thinks is an atmega2560. As is the Ender 3 Pro (atmega1284p). The ender 5 is conspicuously absent.
When using a core xy like the Ender 6, the up is down and down is up on the Z. You can invert it on moonraker but do you know how to invert it with baby steps? It's quite annoying up moving it down and down up.
oddly, I expect up to mean away from the bed, so I get confused the other way round.
@@LostInTech3DI like down to move the bed down away from the nozzle. Is there a way to change it that you know?
There will be - I'm not that familiar with klipper yet but I'm pretty sure the qidi does it, if I figure it out I'll be sure to mention it at some point.
@@LostInTech3D thank you. Thanks for all the great videos.
@@nickp385 add a ! Before the stepper's dir: !pinname(ie !PA1) in the printer config, to change the direction of stepper spins and make sure you have the zero and Max position of the z stop set correctly and not backwards (printer thinks it's at zero vs max z)
I picked up a Raspberry Pi 3b the other day. Took a while to find one. Ugh. I do plan on moving to klipper at one point, but it does seem quite complicated and confusing. Unfortunately the anycubic kobra is not compatible with klipper by default due to the motherboard. So I am now looking for an easy printer to install it on and learn the software. I am considering the sovol sv06 or the kingroon kp3s pro. Any suggestions?
people on our discord are running klipper on the SV06, I am less familiar with the kp3s pro, but I think we might have a couple. We can generally prod you in the right direction either way.
I’m a mod over on the Sovol Subreddit. We have a ton of info on running Klipper on the SV-06. Bassamanator’s guide will have you up and running in no time. It’s listed in the firmware section of our knowledge base.
Have the sonic pad for my kp3s. It works fine, but the klipperfirmware on the sonicpad seems to be a bit older. For example [exclude object] does not work
That’s because it’s a klipper fork and not fully klipper. So updates and support only from creality, good luck with that 😅
I notice the printer still prints a line from the corner to the middle of the bed even with Creality Klipper, this does not happen with stock Klipper or Octoprint.
All a matter of your start gcode. When I started with straight Klipper with Cura since I still had the prime line gcode it still did it
Steve has different size eyes, I hope Steve is OK with that. (great video by the way!)
steve has seen some things.
I really appreciate the point at 4:48. If we don't get manufacturers to embrace open source, then we'll end up with all of the ridiculous proprietary bloated wrappers that have plagued mobile phones for decades.
unfortunately we're already starting to see that...sigh
I seen in video. How did you get the bed level to show. Ie the mesh
I think it just comes up in the setup - but you can see it in mainsail interface either
Have been using Linux in the kindergarten, I see ;)
So have you fixed Z offset issue on Steve, will it save it and use it after reboot? Asking for my Steve.
Maybe do a Short just of you plugging cables into USB ports. So relatable, I'm sure it's not just me.
Yeah it saves everything no issues
I think you should do a review of the Ender 5 S1 especially if you have the newer variant (without the z axis switch at the bottom) great vid though.
I'm confused, why would it need a z axis switch?
I might try a 2nd channel casual 'low editing effort' review, I am really stacked for work at the moment and proper reviews take like 7-10 days.
@@LostInTech3DYes, the first once used a switch at the bottom so the bed would go all the way down when homing. lots of complaints and bad reviews with that one. So, when I set up my Sonic pad a few weeks ago, The Sonic Pad did not auto update so I had selected the wrong Ender 5 S1, it would go off the edge of the bed when I was going through the Sonic Pad setup but when I manually updated it Creativity had added the second variant, setup went perfectly from there.
Still haven't been able to reconnect my Sonic Pad to my Ender 5 pro w/ 4.2.7 & BLT ever since I replaced the board. Also It never seems to detect the USB with the microSD card no matter what Card reader I use. Very disappointed so far.
For $250 CDN, it better do a lot. Orders of magnitude improvment. Double or triple print speed. Otherwise might as well put that money towards a second printer.
I spent 3 days getting a bl touch working. And it was a very indepth install. BUT, It's better than heroin when you get these things working😅
I'm not arguing that it would be easier than the pad, But kiauh has simplified the installation quite a bit. I still wouldn't call it beginner friendly, but I think it falls into the same category as the pad.
yeah people need to know about kiauh. I might give it a poke and see about making a video about it!
@@LostInTech3D I did it with a cheap thin client and am running 4 instances. It is not plug and play, but it supports all printers that can run klipper.
I have a generic webcam from Walmart for my sonic pad. It doesn’t like to focus too close, but it’s fine otherwise.
Really don´t feel like fixing something or setting up. I just want a printer with klipper on it with core xy kinematics which make most sense.
Ender 7? ;)
Creality are about to start shipping their K1 and K1 Max printers, I can more or less guarantee this will not work smoothly, everything they release has errors and they are usually really stupid ones that can be fixed easily, but they dont they just leave it to the community and move on to the next release.
@@LostInTech3D Nah thank you xD I was thinking QIDI once they figured out all the problems, but then again I am lazy and I already got a printer with 220x230x250mm build size.
Reason not to get is there are alot of users that cannot and do not understand how to config. Files
I think you ran the wrong printer.cfg. Like No Z-limit switch? Mine worked fine out of the box.
they keep changing them with updates, I am pretty sure I chose the right one.
@@LostInTech3D When in doubt check it out
i just sent my sonic pad back lol almost 3 weeks of nothing but problems..
I can't speak for other users but for me the Sonic Pad just does not play well with my ender 3 s1. Once printing it does a fantastic job but like many others it just does not seem to work well with the ABL setup. For some people it seems to invert the ABL data or rotate the bed information for me I can run 1 dozen bed meshes and none of them come out the same and for some reason it will not hold on to the z offest. It's a very frustrating situation.
Try the latest update, it's only been out a few days
@@LostInTech3D Excellent, I'll have to give it a shot.
My last 3 prints with this thing stopped exactly at 58 minutes. Not impressed so far but it did work fine with my $20 no name Amazon camera
that's weird?! anything in the logs?
@@LostInTech3D no but TBF i aint got time to be sifting through logs. shoulda waited till version 2 maybe
Nah, still don't have any justification for doing it. I'm saving my money while using my perfectly fine budget printers. So what if the corners bulge a bit. lol With the Bambu, K1, and other new-tech printers coming out soon in the mid price range, I'll pick up one of them and get all of the goodies at once. In the end, I won't have any Sonic Pads lying around collecting dust.
How many channels do you have? 😂
Only three!
...for now
Cr10 plus work with this
but can i klipperize my trusty microwave?
Do you want to cook benchies?
@@LostInTech3D one benchy a day keeps clogs away
Something seems awry with spending $170 to run a better firmware on a $225 printer such as the Ender3v2.
I dunno, maybe it makes it twice as fast! (I dont think it does though haha)
Sorry internet. I'm going to ask a really stupid question. So I'm ready to be shamed I can handle it. I'm not a snowflake, anyways; can you run more than one printer off of pi? Or is it one pi per printer for Klipper? If you can do more than one board per printer, I love to see a video about that if you could. But if that's not possible, I'm very sorry for the stupid question.
oh its actually pretty easy, you can add printers in the menus on mainsail, if you install mainsailOS on the pi, and apparently use kiauh to set it up, its not a challenge at all.
Im going to say 1. Klipper does support screens when you know what you doing. 2. Klipper isn't that great. Adding it to every printer increases the cost without much in terms of quality. Marlin is still the go to. Most manufactures at this point will still run custom firmware. Octoprint is better than mainsail and fluid.
First, mainsail is FAR superior to octoprint. Second, it does add quality (and quality of life) It adds automatic input shaping, it also allows you to just update the printer.cfg, instead of recompiling the firmware EVERY time.
@Colten Meredith LOL FAR superior bruh, You can't add plugins, you can't customize the UI the way you want, and there are so many Marlin features that aren't in Klipper that needs to be. The pid tuning sucks compared to Marlin. Actually, read the comment. Klipper has a ways to go. Have you ever been on the forums or in discord? Input shaping is the only benefit Klipper has. That's it. Flashing firmware isn't that bad on Marlin. Flash it once, which you can do with a Pi, Modify eeprom so you don't have to reflash, and when you get it perfect flash it once more. You sound inexperienced.
@david slacks
1. The UI is more personal preference, I guess (I will always like mainsail more).
2. The plugins are stupid. They are just bloated and make the UI look even more shitty. The only octoprint plugins I ever used were exclude object, and octoklipper. You don't need those plugins with mainsail.
3. Say if you replace the thermistor in the hotend to a different type or want to do a 5x5 mesh instead of a 3x3, guess what? You have to recompile the firmware. With klipper, it takes 2 seconds.
4. PID tuning is just as easy....All you run is: PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=230. You don't even have to remember the G-code command.
You are coming up with bullshit just because you are mad you couldn't get klipper working. Scapegoating.
@david slacks I mainly switched to klipper because I was sick of waiting 27 minutes for my potatoe PC to compile the firmware in VS code.
PS: You can use octoprint with klipper. I used it for a little while, but then I realized mainsail and fluidd were better.
@Colten Meredith LOL funny I got Klipper working on my first try in less than an hour. You forgot on Marlin you can edit the EEPROM from the LCD or Octoprint so no you don't have to reflash firmware.
Not liking plugins is a personal preference just because you like plain and simple doesn't mean we all do. The pros and cons for both are equal. My printers aren't stock and I'm building custom printers not just buying off the shelf. I use klipper because I plan on using multiple boards not because it's better. Do some reading and you will see you statements are invalid. Marlins input shaping is just as good as klipper's when you are not using an accelerometer. Thank you for the comment you remind me of what kind of people are out there.
Linux user here since the 90's, The 3D printer World is far worst than Linux ever was! Its a mess!
Too bad Klipper is still technically beta.
you will have to fix things on OS level, starts with updating klipper/fluidd etc. or making 2nd cam work. at the end you will find out that you can't. when you dig into the OS you will see software and installers from 2019. they run neptune linux with PIP as installer (v8 instead of current v20 !). this means, you can't install anything recent what comes from repositories and you can't compile due to outdated compilers and tools. attempt to update will fail. the solution would be to wipe the whole device and install a proper linux version. so buy a mini pc instead, will take less time to setup than fixing this pile of trash
Meh video
Pure bla, bla!
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