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Awesome tip! I used all your knowledge and how-to to redo my shower. At the time there was no tips for the mosaic type stone. So I did a dry run on mine as well and flipped the sheets every which way to get the best layout with the least amount of joint lines showing, only to not be pleased by it still. Then I went back and took some single stones out along the joint lines & replaced them with different ones that fit better, filling in the gaps and joint lines. It was worth the extra time & effort to not see the lines by replacing only a few stones here and there. I also filled in the outside edges with single pieces instead of cutting a straight line on the flimsy material.
Hello Bob, I get to repay you today. I have studied your videos,, for tips and tricks for me. I too am a professional, tile is not my main business but I seem to do something with tile and thinset two or three times every year,,, over 40 years. I am careful,,, and I learn from everyone. My solution today for the inside of the curb,,, Nails? Through my nice new pan? To screw on the Hardi board to the inside surface of the curb? Gosh I hate that.. So,,,, Today I bought two sills for the curb. One to be ripped to the perfect width to accomplish the height of the curb. That piece of marble will begin right down on the mortar bed,,, the shower floor tile will pin it to the curb face. And the top will be under the inward sloped curb top. No fasteners through the pan membrane, just thinset and pinned top and bottom,,, annnnnd no Hardi board screwed through, or down low to soak up moisture from the bottom. And what is going in is both the finish and rot proof. And on the inside of the curb face,, it should not bother the designer a whit. It cannot be seen unless you are the one naked and wet. No more board on the inside of the curb for me.
Been a granite fabricator/installer for many years, been doing tile for a few years, people saying they can see the lines are delusional, that came out unbelievable!! Anything looking this organic won’t be 100% perfect but this method yielded results better then most! Only thing that could be better would be setting each individual piece which like you said when you have hundreds/thousands is impractical and no one would ever do that! Good job, keep up the great work, your advice and knowledge is greatly appreciated!
came out really nice. i do however do it differently. as you found a straight edge that you were showing on the left with your level, you can just move that level over onto the edge to get a line as well and pre trim. if the mesh is flimsy and might react to water , i will use an angle grinder either dry or hold a damp spomge. so i dry lay like you but then use 2 lasers on the perimeter to get 4 lines square and parallel and mark making sure my dimensions match my shower floor and then precut with all cuts attached to mesh . as i hate adding pieces. if using a square drain, i even precut that trying to cut out of the center of sheet if it works, but always trying to keep the sheets intact. sometimes pieces fall off or you have to add a couple here and there but i really try to just install sheets without having to add. as for fitting to not show individual sheet locations, i dry fit and if a sheet doesnt look tight, i will nip or trim an edge here and there to get it tighter and re polish or stone that edge to make it look factory. i spend hours pre cutting and not only do you have to number the sheets , you have to make sure they are oriented the same direction to get them back the same exact way. when re installing i just make a few marks against the wall in certain areas to line my sheets back up the same position as when i dry fitted. i do these marks on the wall because i dont make any lines on the floor because i set them in one shot. if the floor is to big to reach in one shot, then i make marks or grid the floor. some of those rock sheets are so bad you really need to trim some full pieces to get them closer, if not they will look like that picture you showed where you could see every sheet and thats bad. the angle grinder works good enough to trim because eventually the wall tiles will cover. never should anyone do their shower floor after the wall tiles are set completely, as the floor tiles should always slide under the walls...
I've been pulling every rock from the sheet lately. Been doing large shower floors with zero sheet lines...because they aren't on sheets. Round rocks, though....I can't imagine pulling each tile with the stuff featured in this video.
I pull them off the sheets and work quickly starting at the walls and around the drain and then fill in and pat them in to the thinset…3’x5’ pan takes me around 40 minutes..
@@StarrTile I would like to seal before installation, however I wonder if I will have the same issue of stones falling off the backing...or does the sealant not affect the mesh as much as water? I assume the amount and manner of applying the sealant may also make a difference? Thanks!
@@dawnr.droescher every manufacturer is different so whether or not the sealer would be the same way as water wouod where they tend to fall off the mesh is totally different for every manufacturer, yours may be better than others. Then of course if you decide to seal it you would obviously let that dry out before you ever attempted to install so there is that
So the secret is to use a mosaic that doesn't show lines? Lol. I just did a river rock shower floor, couldnt get the lines to disappear, be interested to see you use one of those.
I have used River Rock on a few occasions, definitely not the easiest to hide lines with... believe it or not most people will take all the Rocks off of the mat and set them individually
@@StarrTile ya im right there with you as far as setting them individually....I sure don't have that kind of patience. I have wondered about taking a few rocks from the borders, and just placing those by hand, something to break up the lines?
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Awesome tip! I used all your knowledge and how-to to redo my shower. At the time there was no tips for the mosaic type stone. So I did a dry run on mine as well and flipped the sheets every which way to get the best layout with the least amount of joint lines showing, only to not be pleased by it still. Then I went back and took some single stones out along the joint lines & replaced them with different ones that fit better, filling in the gaps and joint lines. It was worth the extra time & effort to not see the lines by replacing only a few stones here and there. I also filled in the outside edges with single pieces instead of cutting a straight line on the flimsy material.
Hello Bob, I get to repay you today. I have studied your videos,, for tips and tricks for me. I too am a professional, tile is not my main business but I seem to do something with tile and thinset two or three times every year,,, over 40 years. I am careful,,, and I learn from everyone.
My solution today for the inside of the curb,,, Nails? Through my nice new pan? To screw on the Hardi board to the inside surface of the curb? Gosh I hate that.. So,,,,
Today I bought two sills for the curb. One to be ripped to the perfect width to accomplish the height of the curb. That piece of marble will begin right down on the mortar bed,,, the shower floor tile will pin it to the curb face. And the top will be under the inward sloped curb top. No fasteners through the pan membrane, just thinset and pinned top and bottom,,, annnnnd no Hardi board screwed through, or down low to soak up moisture from the bottom. And what is going in is both the finish and rot proof. And on the inside of the curb face,, it should not bother the designer a whit. It cannot be seen unless you are the one naked and wet. No more board on the inside of the curb for me.
Nice trick !! Easy way to get straight cuts that no one shows on CZcams...thanks !
Been a granite fabricator/installer for many years, been doing tile for a few years, people saying they can see the lines are delusional, that came out unbelievable!! Anything looking this organic won’t be 100% perfect but this method yielded results better then most! Only thing that could be better would be setting each individual piece which like you said when you have hundreds/thousands is impractical and no one would ever do that! Good job, keep up the great work, your advice and knowledge is greatly appreciated!
This shower floor is amazing! Love it!!!
came out really nice. i do however do it differently. as you found a straight edge that you were showing on the left with your level, you can just move that level over onto the edge to get a line as well and pre trim. if the mesh is flimsy and might react to water , i will use an angle grinder either dry or hold a damp spomge. so i dry lay like you but then use 2 lasers on the perimeter to get 4 lines square and parallel and mark making sure my dimensions match my shower floor and then precut with all cuts attached to mesh . as i hate adding pieces. if using a square drain, i even precut that trying to cut out of the center of sheet if it works, but always trying to keep the sheets intact. sometimes pieces fall off or you have to add a couple here and there but i really try to just install sheets without having to add. as for fitting to not show individual sheet locations, i dry fit and if a sheet doesnt look tight, i will nip or trim an edge here and there to get it tighter and re polish or stone that edge to make it look factory. i spend hours pre cutting and not only do you have to number the sheets , you have to make sure they are oriented the same direction to get them back the same exact way. when re installing i just make a few marks against the wall in certain areas to line my sheets back up the same position as when i dry fitted. i do these marks on the wall because i dont make any lines on the floor because i set them in one shot. if the floor is to big to reach in one shot, then i make marks or grid the floor. some of those rock sheets are so bad you really need to trim some full pieces to get them closer, if not they will look like that picture you showed where you could see every sheet and thats bad. the angle grinder works good enough to trim because eventually the wall tiles will cover. never should anyone do their shower floor after the wall tiles are set completely, as the floor tiles should always slide under the walls...
You know there are people out there that will pull off every Rock off of every sheet and set them individually to avoid outlines of sheets....
Crazy
Very resourceful videos keep up the good ..
DeLorean grey!!! Haha epic, I’m gonna start using that term
I've been pulling every rock from the sheet lately. Been doing large shower floors with zero sheet lines...because they aren't on sheets. Round rocks, though....I can't imagine pulling each tile with the stuff featured in this video.
Hey bob someone sees the lines🤣.u da man bob thanks for the vids
What kind of grout do you use on pebble shower floor ? Prism ? Or a different one ?
Prism 💯👌🏻
I must be slightly autistic because I can see the lines, although the floor was harder to see with the darker grout. Very well done.
I pull them off the sheets and work quickly starting at the walls and around the drain and then fill in and pat them in to the thinset…3’x5’ pan takes me around 40 minutes..
It looks like someone could set up the shower floor as a checkerboard in that still shot at the 1:27 mark.
Can't see the lines can you Russ
Do you seal the stone before you grout? Or after grout?
That is an excellent question, Natural Stone like this should be sealed prior to installation and then afterward as well
@@StarrTile I would like to seal before installation, however I wonder if I will have the same issue of stones falling off the backing...or does the sealant not affect the mesh as much as water? I assume the amount and manner of applying the sealant may also make a difference? Thanks!
@@dawnr.droescher every manufacturer is different so whether or not the sealer would be the same way as water wouod where they tend to fall off the mesh is totally different for every manufacturer, yours may be better than others.
Then of course if you decide to seal it you would obviously let that dry out before you ever attempted to install so there is that
@@StarrTile Thank you!!
So the secret is to use a mosaic that doesn't show lines? Lol. I just did a river rock shower floor, couldnt get the lines to disappear, be interested to see you use one of those.
I have used River Rock on a few occasions, definitely not the easiest to hide lines with... believe it or not most people will take all the Rocks off of the mat and set them individually
@@StarrTile ya im right there with you as far as setting them individually....I sure don't have that kind of patience. I have wondered about taking a few rocks from the borders, and just placing those by hand, something to break up the lines?
@@charleyandsarah anything that works... I have taken individual pieces and shaved them down to get them into the small gaps to hide the lines
Im sorry but i can see the lines...
I see lines🥳