BASIC Fuel Economy Tuning Using HP Tuners ~ Step by Step | Gears and Tech
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- čas přidán 19. 01. 2022
- We show you exactly how to setup a basic tune on your chevy 5.3L engine for fuel economy. We also add a little bit of spice, to make the truck more fun to drive
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This is the exact WRONG WAY to do this. You do not mess with the stoich table, you mess with the ve table. And you do this with a wideband.
Can you teach us ? 👍🏼🙏🏼
I see alot of tuning where stoich is changed ! Changed to match the regulated 10% E85 added to unleaded fuels is 1 reason for the change. Agree about using the wideband !
Great video! Might have to see if I can apply any of this to my 2008 Toyota sequoia, very limited info on tuning them available.
Under "part throttle shift" It appears that the "D1" table has been modified (its red) I didn't see you open it though?
-The best fuel economy tuning is to tune narrow part in fuel and spark table to be safe like 1500-2000 rpm at low load 20%-40% depend on maf or map or throttle opening and you can change afr at 16-17 and advance the spark timing
-the rest of the table leave it alone like wot wide open throttle and idle leave it as it is
- idle some time you need it to be rich to start and warm the engine to operate normally and sometimes the air is too hot so you want it to be rich To reduces combustion chamber temp and safe the engine
-wot wide open throttle also leave it as it is because you need max safety hp and torque do don’t miss with it
This will give you fuel economy tuning and not damaging the engine in long run and this work at any type of tuning method like stock ecu tune or piggyback or full aftermarket ecu like halltech or motech etc
Thanks for stopping by. All true points. You know your stuff
What are you pressing to increase the values while modifying the desired pedal area?
Plus and minus on my keyboard.
Excellent video! I didn't notice any spark advance adjustment. Does it offer one? Thanks.
Yes, I advanced the spark a couple degrees
I know what also makes a huge difference is that the torque converter locks while coasting and it makes the engine spin above 1300 to 2000 rpms when the engine can idle while coasting and the computer still throws more fuel in while the wheels are making the engine spin while the throttle is not being used and that made my v6 colorado get 11 or 10 mpg city and 13 or 14 highway and I changed it and the rpms drop to idle speed while coasting and increased the mpg to 19 to 20 something city and along with the 16.2 afr
So what did you change? I’m very curious
@@NtulkSlzX I did everything he did but just a little bit more
doing that's actually going to cause more fuel usage than keep it locked up. While your foot is off the throttle the throttle body closes completely, during which fuel is cutoff. Your engine is staying at higher rpm because it's connected to the wheels, not because it's actually running. Now that you've made it idle while cruising you're just going to be burning fuel the entire time, as well as lost ALL engine braking thus putting more strain on your actual brakes.
excellent gains
What tuning device did you use?
Can any of the transmission settings be applied to a 4l80e? My dad has a 4.8l swapped into an 05 sierra 2500. He is going for fuel economy.
Yes. Most of these settings are available on the 4l80e. They may not be called, but they will be in there somewhere
@@GearsAndTech great thanks, do you know if I can use similar numbers to what you used?
Yes. A lto of times it's just trial and error. I've done it enough times I know the general numbers I want. But as long as you have the software, try my numbers and adjust more or less as needed.
can i modify a bin file dumped with kess in the hp tunner software?
Great question. I'm not sure about that one. I've never tried myself
bro,No. that table for stoich, the zero to 100 is the amount a alch in the fuel, straight e 85 stoich is 9.75 to one.
Yes, you're correct.
I may not have explained that well, but we are saying the same thing.
Im just saying to adjust the stoich setting in that table in case your truck thinks there is ethanal in the fuel and starts referencing that table
@@GearsAndTech i must be watching something else, also that table as well as hp tuners as a whole program wont let you run lean unless you cheat the numbers. also running a leaner mix wont get you mpg an efficeint tune will, or if you go waaaaaaaay lean and tune like a diesel with the throttle open and control speed with fuel to eliminate pumpng losses
Doing what I show in the video has net me a minimum of 2l/100 km improvement in fuel economy.
It's not a night and day difference, but it makes a difference at the pumps
In all honesty, the biggest factor is that rich lean switch over map on the 02 sensors.
Thats what's really leaning out the fuel.
Since I leave all safety systems in place the truck will end up with a different tune than what I set in the tables for sure. But telling it to go onto the lean side for afr tells it what Im after, and it listens.
I also realize I am leaving a lot on the table by not messing with the other maps. But, this video isn't showing advanced tuning. Im showing the quick and dirty.
@@GearsAndTech We'll need ironclad evidence of that... Some of your edits quite literally work against fuel economy.
Unfortunately my video editor isn't really knowledgeable in these sort of things so he edited out a lot of what I was doing
The good news is that I have purchased a new avalanche and will be Doing a fuel saver tune on this one. Since its an 08 I figured I would do a video on it since its slightly different.
Im curious to know which changes you feel are opposite of fuel saving changes
How do i enter the giveaway?
thanks for your video. but O2 sensor reading is: 0.1V to 0.9V
with 0.9V on the rich side and 0.1V on the lean side
Yes, that's why you want it to trigger lower than .5v. That's why we set the threshold at 325 ish. It keeps it bouncing off the lean end of things
@@GearsAndTech great job, thanks
what is the best MPG you got out of tuning your 6.0? i wonder if ignoring egr and downstream o2 sensors would help? any suggestions? i heard these can get 22mpg on the highway .... i need that lol
You can get some great mileage out of them. Depends how close you're willing to go to the limit on it.
Downstream o2 sensors do nothing for fueling, unless your cats are overheating
Can you program AT to shift to Neutral when TPS = 0 and Speed Sensor = 0?
I can't say I have ever tried
What is the use case for this?
When you step on gas there would be a delay for engagement which would be very hard on the transmission
You could reduce idle speed in Neutral with the vehicle stopped rather than the stop/start trend with all of its problems. When you lift your foot off the brake, the AT would revert to D & increase idle speed.
Just wanted to share that stoich AFR is dependent on ethanol %. I like to drop my VVE table 8% to 10% in the cruising ranges. Therefore truck runs and drives normal but gets better mpg on cruising, low load, speeds. I wouldn't recommend dropping the entire table or changing stoich afr
Thanks for sharing.
Awesome video, thank you for helping us all out. Can this be done to a 2011 suburban 5.3 that uses only e85 fuel ? I would like to maximize mpg. Do I need a dual or single Wideband sensor? I know I have 2 banks but if my exhaust comes off each cylinder head and Y’s to one exhaust do I really need two widebands o2 monitors?
No, one wideband is enough in that case
@@GearsAndTech can the same settings apply to e85. Does this model suv have 2 fuel mapping for e85 and or gasoline? Or is it based on gasoline?
By the way it doesnt have cats
@@kkc1577 fuel type changes the targeted/safe stoichiometric numbers.. compression ratio, engine design, octane rating, boosted or spray, and/or fuel type changes the target ratio. he should have mentioned it because many places as well as vehicles have and require differing octane versions of "gasoline"... with all the ethanol mixes out there now which is currently being increased calls for yet more adjustments which is why so many are complaining about mileage and power loses from the currently dispensed fuels. I was watching more to see if someone was going to mention that vehicles are factory tuned to waste fuel in order to feed fuel to the catalytic convertors that is how they work, they react with the additional fuel and cook off some of the bads (emissions) in order to pass tests. If you detune the fuel system your taking away that fuel so it might be perfect for use and get good economy but fail emissions testing. Him being a canookistanian i bet he had some issues with safety/emissions tests.
We don't do emissions testing at all
In fact, we can cut our cats right out and straight pipe them and be fine.
I could have mentioned that in my video but didn't
Also, I run my tune on 87 all day with no issue. Put 91 in and it just wastes money but doesn't run any different
I can even run 85 at most altitudes with no issue. I had one time where I noticed slight knock as I went over some passes in Montana to idaho. On next fill up I put 87 in and was fine again.
why did you change the rich/lean voltage?
It's to adjust the swap over point so it stays on the lean side
I get 18mpg highway on my 05 GMC Sierra crewcab 5.3
Wonder if the previous owner messed with it
Highway gear ratio?
So if you buy that software and the proper credits you get to tweak your own personal licensed ECM unlimited amount of times?
Thats right
Some computers let you play around more than others, thats why there sre aftermarket ones, but anyone can tune a vehicle, if you're willing to learn and make a risk that you mess something up, that goes for just about anything really
will it not burn vales running it so lean??
We really aren't running it that lean.
But I have never had a problem with this tune
Cool video 👍, i dont know if you missed this but if you remove too much fuel for the afr than your engine will run hotter and if you advance the timing too much you will be wearing out your motor more
I think I went over all that. Been a while since I watched this myself
@@GearsAndTech I thought so, just making sure no one would make the same mistake I would.
pretty sure you can keep it in the 12.5 range into the 90f range with it being n/a
Probbaly right. There is a lot still left on the table here
For my O2 sensor setting, there is no Mili volts setting. There is only temperature settings in Fahrenheit. The current number is 41 F. The minimum is -41 F and the max is 247 F. For mileage purposes, what should that number be?
Don’t listen to this clown, trust me when I say he doesn’t know wtf he talking about😂
As far as the oxygen sensors, are the measurements in Kelvin, Fahrenheit, or Celius? My vehicle is 2005 Tacoma. The numbers and measurements are totally different.
The 02 sensors are reading milli volts.
I've never seen a system that reads anything else.
computers and laptop specifications and accessories are universal globally and there is no issue of difference or compatibility,why this trend is not being followed by car industries....
I’m not awful sure you really wanna go fucking around with that stoich table
Stoich table is a quick and dirty way to get the result I'm after
Does it show miles per gallon saving?
It won't show the savings. But if you check what it was prior, and what it is after then you can figure it out
15:53 "Just makes the f*ck truck fun to drive."
How bad is his tuning for fuel economy n what did he just do n ruin?
it works great for fuel economy. there are other ways to dial it in, but this helps a lot
There is a lot wrong here, tbh. I could see the changes to the O2 sensor voltage tables making a difference, but it's a band-aid at best. The real MPG gains would come from dialing the LTFTs using MAF and VE tuning and driving it gently. The fact he was getting spark knock / spark retard during his highway pull is proof the engine is too lean... you should NEVER get any knock on a healthy engine. Him claiming that it's normal at 23:59 is flat wrong.
What kind of mileage improve could be had with a mint condition 02 Suburban 2 wheel drive? Has the 5.3l that sure has great torque with 165k miles on it.
in my case with very mild tune as shown here I get about 2L/100 km. Its not a lot, but its pretty good
Umm, the STOICH AFR table is for adjusting when it senses alcohol content. I would not change that.
Yes you're correct. But it pulls from that table even if its not sensing alcohol
I really hope this video is a joke. I’m Seriously cringing watching this video. I tune cars everyday for a living and everything single thing you have done on this video is completely wrong. I feel bad for anyone who has taken any of your videos advice what so ever. They key to getting better gas mileage is max break torque. While cruising at specific speeds and rpm’s you can adjust timing to create more torque. Torque moves the vehicles. Anyways I would delete this video ..
@@daftdrifting I got a 2005 Impala with a 3.5 V6. I also have HP tuners. What should I adjust to get better gas mileage at highway speed like 65-75mph. I heard Lean burn or something
@@daftdrifting i honestly feel a little bit mad. imagine some poor fella doing this to his daily driver and just melting down his new engine. it cost so much more than fuel savings. this guys a pos for doing this.
@@dreece2000 You're not going to melt your engine running an AFR of 16 lmfao
I would say he met his goals but there is a whole lot of misinformation in here I would not recommend this except the shift points and o2 sensor settings. Adding some shift pressure will help longevity as well. The best mileage comes from a efficient tune with spark timing dialed in well.
For sure spending more time dialing in settings is always the best way to go
However, there is nothing unsafe about the tune. This is the quick and dirty that stays well in the safe side without needing a lot of testing time to get it right.
@@GearsAndTech if it works it works.
Does your rig still run? Any update? Did you really save some gas with this tune?
I've been running this tune on Chevys for the past 13 years. It saves me about 2 liters per 100km on average.
@@GearsAndTech ok so in us..... it saves you 1/2 of 1 gallon of fuel in 60 or so miles? thats terrible and not worth it. Am i wrong? 2 LITERS?
Where is accelerator pedal position? I can't find it
It's in the transmission tab of your tune.
@@GearsAndTech my is 5th gen 2016 I don't can't find it no where
Ah. Yes on your year the tcm freaks out if you mess with throttle position anyway.
Probbaly should just leave that part alone, or if you can find it do just a slight modification to it
@@faridgadimov5955 Banks, has a pedal monster deal for you im sure it does exactly what your wanting to do.
@@masterdebater8757 I don't know what banks is bro
will this also reduce the emissions?
Fuel economy and emissions work opposite each other.
If you get great fuel economy your emissions will be bad
If you get great emissions your fuel economy will be bad
@@GearsAndTech interesting. I thought it would be the opposite. 🤔
Cars run on the rich side because it keeps nox levels lower out the tail pipe
@@GearsAndTech interesting. 🤔
If you want a little more food for thought
The entire displacement on demand features added to the big v8’s has nothing to do with fuel economy and everything to do with a loophole on the emissions standards.
Smaller engines are allowed to polute MORE per liter (or cc) of engine size than a bigger engine
For example:
Two 2 liter engines are allowed to produce more emissions than one 4 litre engine
So, if you can make the epa think that your 4l engine is actually a 2 liter engine because it shuts half the cylinders off while cruising (the actual time the tail pipe emissions are tested) then you can polute more than if you didn't have DOD
it gets very convoluted, but that's what the root of it all is.
So what’s the fuel economy now?
Excellent question. In the summer when I'm not running the car a lot to warm it up I'm getting mixed economy of 14.6 or so
When I do just highway I'm in the 12 l/100 range
If I didn't have the 4.10 rear end I could have gotten it lower. But it is what it is
3:45 AFR is the ratio of mass, no molecules.
When the rpms don't drop down to idle speed while coasting that's one of the main problems for bad fuel economy that it's the torque converter is staying locked that makes the wheels are spin the engine
That stoic AFR table does not work how you are saying. That is AFR vs ethanol percentage, the fuel trims are going to undo the changes you made unless you disabled them in a later step. Please don't teach people to modify this table without extensive engine tuning knowledge, this affects all fuel calculations.
I hear what you're saying, but if this didn't work the way I say it does how do you explain the results in getting?
I think you need to go and try it then come back and tell me I'm wrong. Just because you never heard this before doesn't make me wrong
@@GearsAndTechthis 100% is incorrect. Adjusting Stoich doesn’t work the way you are explaining. This isn’t you being innovative, this is you being very misinformed and dangerously misinforming others. When you lie to the ECM about Stoich, your ECM is being told a lie about fuel density hince why you are seeing an mpg change on the dash.
This is one of the most misinforming videos I have ever come across and I have NEVER posted a negative comment on another creator’s video ever. Please delete this video.
Sincerely,
a 17 year Professional GM Calibrator and a former Bosch Calibration Engineer.
Are you kidding!? You didn't actually tell us what your fuel saving turns out to be!? I cant believe it!
I'm pretty sure I did tell you guys
I would never do this to my car.. you can mess up your car for what? So you can save 20 bucks every month in fuel?
Yes. If you're not sure what you're doing then just leave it alone
This guy telling you to leave it alone if you don’t know what your doing but is making videos on how to save fuel .. he has no idea what he’s doing . I’m seriously cringing during this whole video
@@daftdrifting you do economy email tunes on escalades? 07
What the hell is a Kilometer!!!???
It's 1000 meters
You don't know how to interpolate, huh? lol
You don't know a lot of things if you want a downshift at 95mph in a truck that is speed limited to 98mph. I know what you're going to say, you're going to say that you took your speed limiter off. More ignorant because the reason their speed limited at 98 is because if you have an aluminum drive shaft, it becomes a jump rope over 100 mph. Don't believe it? Ask anybody who frequently dynos these trucks. There's not one of us that hasn't had drive shafts come out of them!
SU
Theres alot of wrong here
This is exactly how I start my time for fuel savings and it always gets the results I'm after.
Lots saying the same, without explaining! So why comment in the first place?
So in the end you only guess what the improvement is? 👎
No, I was showing you guys what I do. I know what the improvement is. I've done in on a bunch of Chevy like this
You said you had a long week of driving and that would give you a chance to do a good comparison. You did indeed say that "it should improve". Sorry but I've seen plenty of "how to" videos that didn't end the way the poster intended.
There is so much wrong in the first 5 minutes of this video. I had to shut it off.
I'm sorry you feel that way
But thanks for giving it an honest chance. And for commenting
Guy sure spends a bunch of time talking about power when the title is about tuning fuel economy. Then he messes with driver demand to make the engine more punchy. Then doesn’t show the “after” fuel economy.
I thought I explained it in the video, but a fuel economy tune and a power tune actually can reside on the same tune. Your gas pedal controls the amount of economy or power you want.
With this tune I save roughly 2L/100km. I am pretty sure I showed the before and after as well.
No reason for the fuel economy tune to not add a little fun as well.
Also the table you’re editing is the Stoich AFR by Ethanol %, it’s not when “your plugs start running bad, injectors fouled up, haven’t changed coil packs, old oil” 😂
Side note: If you are trying to avoid liability, don't claim this is for 'educational purposes'......make the claim it is for 'entertainment purposes'
Educational implies you are an expert delivering actionable information.
Stay out of trouble and make more videos 😁
Thanks. You're probbaly right
Please, stop giving tuning advice and leave it to professionals! There is a whole lot wrong with most of the advice you gave here.
Appreciate the feedback
This is quick and dirty and works.
Obviously a shop is going to do more in depth tuning and testing. There is tons left of the table here
Most gasoline engines at full throttle command 12.5 to 12.8 afr. You are commanding 11 afr which is at least 10% RICHER, and your goal is to help fuel economy? There’s so much wrong with this video
At wot, it goes open loop. What else was wrong with the video according to you?
This guy doesn't know shi*
Care to elaborate?
It happens every time someone sees something new or contrary to what they 'know'
I've been in the tuning game for over 20 years. I've been in the mechanics game for more than 25.
Ewalt may do things differently, but different doesn't mean it's wrong. It's just different.
You can't argue with my results. And I haven't blown up any engines in the process.
@@GearsAndTech
Isn't it interesting how NONE of the people claiming it's all wrong don't have a video of how THEY think is the best way to do it on their channel?
Ever wonder why that is? I sure don't. ;)
@@GearsAndTech Sorry, but I really doubt your tuning and mechanical expertise. I'm not usually the smartest guy in the room, but I can still explain how a stoich table works. And to excuse WOT knock retard just shows you don't understand just how lean you made it... it's so lean the PE can't even keep it from rattling. Good luck, I hope it keeps running for you.
Please quit missinforming people
Explain!
Don't follow this!!
Over 15 years doing it like this. So far no issues.