Thanks for putting this up Pete. My Mk5 Golf will need a couple of new CV boots very soon, tiny split started in one. After watching your video it looks like a fairly straight forward job with the right tools. And yes, tyre technicians.... they were called tyre changers when I was a mechanic many decades ago.
Your really good at doing all this stuff! You saved my day when I did a boot replacement. Some other vid tapped out the cv joint w/ a brass punch. I went and bought a brass punch kit for $40 and ended up not using them cause your method seemed way way easier! Thank you for taking the time to post this vid! You should get some $$$ every time someone watches your vid and saves money by not paying a shop!
Just watched a video of someone struggling hard on this job. Doing everything the hard way it seems. I like your way of doing this much better, thank you Pete!
Pete, I like your trick using the small bar. I am going to try this on the car without removing the Axel. Is the vice necessary to keep the Axel from turning? Perhaps I'll use a pipe-wrench while on the car to prevent spin.
I didn't see which step you added the "C" clip on the end of the shaft? When you were installing back together, I didn't see you re-install, or install a replacement? My eyes are getting worse with age LOL
Any issues with your alignment doing this this way? I just got an alignment 2 days ago and now my boot has ripped. Hoping to get away without another alignment but am worried to mess new tires up as well.
It is best practice to remove the joint at the taper to ensure wheel that the alignment is not altered. However, if you are careful upon reassembly, you can match the original bolt and nut locations and you should not have any issues.
For the small amount of extra time and effort I would much rather remove the shaft from the vehicle. But yes, the outer boot can maybe replaced with the shaft remaining in the vehicle.
Question. Do you need to put a new retainer clip on the end in order for the race and cage plume shaft to get past it to slide and lock in place? Seems like the old clip won’t let it go back on..
@@hardcore4476 yes I think the clip should be in place. Not sure why yours is having trouble sliding over it. Perhaps check for a bur. There should be a small taper to compress the clip. Maybe try to squash the clip a little. Good luck and do and let us know how you get on with it.
looks like you don't even need a new boot. just push the inner side of the boot closer to the end of inner axle, tight up the first pinch with a stainless steel wire that also stop the leak.
On a Mk5 Jetta with a Diesel you can remove the axle without taking the lower ball joint off. Just turn the steering wheel to the opposite side you are trying to remove.
I LOVED your trick to take the joint off the spline. I put a 7mm socket inside and tightened down the axle bolt and it came right off. Awesome!!!!
Thanks for putting this up Pete. My Mk5 Golf will need a couple of new CV boots very soon, tiny split started in one. After watching your video it looks like a fairly straight forward job with the right tools. And yes, tyre technicians.... they were called tyre changers when I was a mechanic many decades ago.
Your really good at doing all this stuff! You saved my day when I did a boot replacement. Some other vid tapped out the cv joint w/ a brass punch. I went and bought a brass punch kit for $40 and ended up not using them cause your method seemed way way easier! Thank you for taking the time to post this vid! You should get some $$$ every time someone watches your vid and saves money by not paying a shop!
You are very welcome. I’m so glad it helped you out.
Just watched a video of someone struggling hard on this job. Doing everything the hard way it seems. I like your way of doing this much better, thank you Pete!
Thank you for your feedback. I appreciate it.
Thanks Pete, it looks pretty straight forward. No comment on the tyre "technincians" dont think they received any formal training.
Re: old wheel weights. Glad to see you mention those. I had good luck with Goo Gone and 95% Isopropyl alcohol, left over from Covid days. Nice video.
Thanks very much for the CV boot video. It helped us do one on a mk5 golf.
Very good. Glad to hear it. Thanks for sharing.
Good job!
Thanks for sharing 👍
That axle bolt they say is Torque-to-yield - one time use . I bought a new one from the dealer $9+tax in Canada.
Thanks for the info.
Pete, I like your trick using the small bar. I am going to try this on the car without removing the Axel. Is the vice necessary to keep the Axel from turning? Perhaps I'll use a pipe-wrench while on the car to prevent spin.
Thanks Curran. If you keep the axle in the car and transmission in Park then the shaft will be locked from rotating.
Hi Great video 👍🏼 , what tool do you need to crimp the clamps on the new boot . Thank you
There is a specialty pliers for that style of clamps. I think it's literally called CV clamp pliers.
Hi great video 👍🏼 can you please let me know what the name of the proper tool is for the clamps on the new CV boot? thank you.
“CV joint boot clamp pliers”
Did you replace the clip at the front of the shaft that actually holds the cv joint onto the axle??
That’s a really good point. I don’t recall but it also looks like (re-watching the video) the c clip was missing when taking off the CV joint. Hmmmm
Exelent job 💪😁 now its my turn 😕
I didn't see which step you added the "C" clip on the end of the shaft? When you were installing back together, I didn't see you re-install, or install a replacement? My eyes are getting worse with age LOL
Yes these wheel technicians should clean up their mess after balancing...nice vid. though..!
Any issues with your alignment doing this this way? I just got an alignment 2 days ago and now my boot has ripped. Hoping to get away without another alignment but am worried to mess new tires up as well.
It is best practice to remove the joint at the taper to ensure wheel that the alignment is not altered. However, if you are careful upon reassembly, you can match the original bolt and nut locations and you should not have any issues.
@@PetesWorkshop thanks for the reply! I'll use the taper then if I need to! 🤞
So the whole drive shaft didn't actually need removing from the car...need to replace a boot on my mk6 but don't want to remove the whole shaft
For the small amount of extra time and effort I would much rather remove the shaft from the vehicle. But yes, the outer boot can maybe replaced with the shaft remaining in the vehicle.
Did this job hold up? Looking to do mine soon.
Yes still perfect.
@@PetesWorkshop Awesome, glad to hear it! How long did you think you drove on that ripped boot before you rebooted it? Guesstimate?
Question. Do you need to put a new retainer clip on the end in order for the race and cage plume shaft to get past it to slide and lock in place? Seems like the old clip won’t let it go back on..
@@hardcore4476 yes I think the clip should be in place. Not sure why yours is having trouble sliding over it. Perhaps check for a bur. There should be a small taper to compress the clip. Maybe try to squash the clip a little. Good luck and do and let us know how you get on with it.
looks like you don't even need a new boot. just push the inner side of the boot closer to the end of inner axle, tight up the first pinch with a stainless steel wire that also stop the leak.
Modern boots are made from plastics rather than rubber. If it doesn’t seat where it’s designed for it will not seal.
Yea, how long would that cheap fix last? And it would need to be correctly replaced eventually. Do it right the first time.
On a Mk5 Jetta with a Diesel you can remove the axle without taking the lower ball joint off. Just turn the steering wheel to the opposite side you are trying to remove.