Triang / Hornby Silver Seal motor upgrade kit - fitting tutorial
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- čas přidán 20. 08. 2024
- Fitting tutorial for Triang Hornby Silver Seal motor upgrade kits, which can be bought here.... www.ebay.co.uk...
Items used during fitting...
Soldering iron -www.amazon.co....
Solder - www.ebay.co.uk...
Oil dropper - www.amazon.co....
Flush cutters - www.ebay.co.uk...
Wire strippers - uk.rs-online.c...
I liked this video because of the confidence you showed in putting the body back on before testing the loco. 😮😮👍
Very good tutorial and I have a similar loco but not the Silver Seal version.
I would like to point out that the original motor is the Flieschman motor adopted by Triang Hornby. This is a superior motor to the other Ringfield style motors used by Hornby.
Looks like the armature needs a good clean and that is what I have done with mine.
I am in the process of replacing the alloy pinions on some of my locos with new brass ones but they are proving difficult to get on to the shaft.
Another point is the small caps which retain the springs/brushes are hard to find, at least here in Toronto.
Using two screwdrivers to remove the wheels is an excellent piece of advice and should be noted by all.
Thanks for taking the timer o produce this very helpful video, I know the effort it requires
Regards
Charlie
Some hints and tips, based on Fleischmann Type 58 experience (which is the design that Hornby got a license for):
At 6:39 If Hornby used the same tolerances as Fleischmann did, removing the plastic chassis sides is a lot easier when you remove the brush holders.
16:32 Never tighten the screws too hard there, as they will strip the threads on the chassis. Get the motor clearances on the gearing side correct ahead of this step.
22:30 Double check the wiring here and measure which one is connected to the locomotive chassis. This type of motor can be set up as a one wire version, where one of the brushes picks up power from the brush holder assembly. Adding an extra wire lug for that kind of set-up would help for that kind of situations
28:57 For test running, drive in both directions and over points and curves and do the same with the locomotive flipped around, as that is the only way to be sure that the polarity of the locomotive and tender are set up the same. Even with traction tyres, the wheels on the tender do pick up power, especially in curves and on pointwork.
You could also market this for the continental market, as the Fleischmann 'diagonal' layout motors do not have a replacement brush holder assembly available. Only complication would be the locating lugs for the magnet holder that Fleischmann uses.
The uprade transformed my 9F. Watch when you refit the wheels that the gears fully engage, I found when I reset them using a BTB gauge that they slipped, as there was greater slop than that "designed" by Hornby., so I neeeded to push the wheels more closely together than I would have normally. Still runs perfectly through Streamline Code 100.
Thank you for this. I have ordered the kit.
This is good news.
I was given a Hornby 'Evening Star' for my ninth birthday. The motor bearings gave up years ago. Lack of lube was to blame. This could rescue it.
If you are recommending removal and reinstatement of wheels a back to back gauge would be a good idea for consistency else there is likely to be trouble at turnout and crossing vees.
Hi Jack, yes a back to back would be preferable, however the moulded gears on the wheels on one side can make this tricky to get a reliable gauge from a back to back tool.
@@HornsWhistlesWorkshop you can use two.
A useful video. 👍👍 You comment on how we can see the improvement with the new motor but, in fact, we can't as you didn't show us how it ran before the modification.😉
Good point Michael, although hopefully viewers with Silver Seal models will be able to compare the results to how they know they locos fitted with the original motors run.
Depending on the power supply: cogging on very low speed, or no low speed capability at all.
Overall: relatively high starting voltage, Humming sound depending on wear, worn out bearing squeal
Hi Mark yet another fantastic video, if possible can you do a video of fitting your conversion on the Hornby apt with the ringfield motor as I am about to purchase another kit from you, my virgin HST 125 is now running fine thanks to your help
Out of curiosity do you do commissions? Say someone sending you a model to fit a new motor ?
Is this a modified 9F? I have a Britannia Class 'Oliver Cromwell' 1974, same vintage I think with same the same tender drive. The tender was riveted to the pony truck, and the tender body was clipped to the tender frame; I say was, as both rivet joint and clips have broken, looks a reasonable fix. You don't show the pulling power of the motor - comparable to original?
I think I noticed a missing tooth in one of the gears on reassembly, the gear on the right.
Great video, Do you do a motor for a Lima class 37 ? Cheers Deano
I do indeed, check this link 👍
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143934791128
There is also a video for them on my channel.
I have a silver seal Hornby Black 5 notor, which only has the red wire? Any idea where to put the black wire?
Based on Fleischmann motor knowledge (as this is a licensed copy of the Fleischmann one) Get a multimeter and measure which brush holder is the non-isolated one (check the back side of the brush holder assembly). Put a wire eye on the black wire and put that on one of the screws holding the motor on the chassis or find some other location where you can connect it to the chassis.
I'd rather spend the money on a newer product . . .
Sacrilege, getting rid of that old Fleischman motor.