What to Know Before Installing a Diverter Valve (preparation makes install a breeze)
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- čas přidán 3. 04. 2019
- I've always wanted remote hydraulic connections at the front of my tractor. With remotes there, you can power implements that have their own cylinders, like grapples, tree shears and tree pullers. I kicked myself for not having them installed on my tractor when I worked at a dealership because I got a discount on labor. So, when I was approached by a company that offered a DIY kit to install a diverter valve, I jumped at the chance.
A diverter valve is basically a solenoid valve that uses electricity to change the flow of hydraulic oil from one circuit to another. In practical use, how it works with, say a grapple, is you drive into the brush pile with the grapple open. Hit and hold a button on the joystick an oil flow is diverted from the bucket tilt and curl to a second circuit that moves the grapple down on top of the load. Release the button and the tilt and curl works as normal.
Installing this kit wasn't too hard, but I didn't follow the directions. For some reason, the installation instructions want you to first disable the tractor, disconnect the battery, and work on installing the electrical part. Since I was using my tractor often to feed hay, I didn't want it to be down. So, I installed all the pieces that don't require disconnecting hydraulic hoses or electrical connections first, and put off those activities until the last. It worked well, but I could have done it a lot quicker had I done a few things different. That's the subject of this video.
If I had it to do over, I would have dummied up the valve in the position I was going to mount it, then measured to see how long my new hoses needed to be. Basically, I used the old hoses to go to the valve, then some 2' hoses to come back to the hydraulic lines, then a pair of 7' hoses to run the new circuit to the front of the tractor. After measuring to see what hoses you need, I highly recommend taking the hoses off and taking them to the store where you plan to get the hoses and get all the fittings and hoses at once. If you have an older tractor that may be pretty easier, some of the new tractors are using some British fittings that are not yet common in this country. If your tractor has those, the local farm store may not have the fittings and you may have to travel to a store that specializes in hydraulics to identify them and to order them for you. Because I failed to take all the pieces to the store where I got my hose and fittings, I ended up making three trips. Had I taken the hoses and valve with me the first timeI could have got everything at once.
Those hoses are pretty easy to get off, they'll have fittings on one end and a quick coupler on the other. Make sure you wiggle the joystick around to let all of the pressure off the loader before disconnecting anything.
My next video will look at how the installation went after all of the parts were secured. While I may be the slowest mechanic on earth, the kit went on and performed as advertised the first time.
In future videos I'll look at attachments that can now be used with the front hydraulic connections. This is going to open up a new world for me!
By the way, the kit is available on my website if you'd like to install one on your tractor. Buying from me helps support my video activities and is greatly appreciated!
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i always learn a lot from you Mike. Thanks. I like your "teaching" style
I installed a third function valve on my Kioti. It came in a kit. Specifically for the tractor. Very useful.
Great video. Any time you add a function to a tractor it is a bonus. Thanks for sharing Mike.
They work great! My tractor came with a diverter pre installed.the converter was installed up by the front of my loader.
Thanks Mike. That info is very handy for someone that is going to be adding a third function valve.
Mike, I too am from southern MO. I enjoy your channel, Having worked on low voltage alarm circuits for the last 50 years I would not have run the cable under the floor mat. I know it seams like it would be protected, but every time you drag your foot over the spot, or dirt , or small rocks get under the mat it will ware on the cable insulation until it causes a short to the floor. Perhaps run the cable from the joy stick down under the floor and up, and tie wrap to the lines. Its like never run an extension coard under a carpet, eventually it will burn your house down...
keep un the good work.
Very good video Mike. I installed a diverter valve on a 2017 TYM tractor before I found your video. A few things that I unexpectedly encountered were metric hydraulic non flare fittings on the loader (these were difficult to mate to NPT or JIC
fittings) and I installed a pistol grip handle with a built in trigger switch which is really nice, but it came with a blind hole to mount onto the valve lever, I wound up needing a metric fine thread tap so that I could thread it onto the valve handle. Nothing major, but it was another trip to the hardware store. I have approx 6 hours into the install learning as I went. If I did it again, it would take 2 hours to install. I found your video to be spot on. Merry Christmas from the other side of the Show Me State.
On a side note, I joined Mikes patreon account, and it has already saved me $$ as he does answer questions (even on UTVs) and saved me some costly mistakes. You might look at it too.
You have a superb price on the kit, but as I am a full time veterinarian and part-time tractor enthusiast I chose to have a kit like yours installed by my local dealer a year ago for my Everythig attachments grapple. That grapple changes how I use my compact tractor and makes it much more useful. But, once fully installed I didn't like the way the switch operated the grapple so I switched the grapple hoses so when I press the switch up, it opens, and down, it closes. I then had to install QD connectors to aid moving back to the bucket which of course still has it's uses. The durn QD connectors ran me in circles too, extra hydraulic hoses, wrong size and such. Then I had a malfunction in one QD connector where the pin under the spring in the connector went bad and that was many phone calls to the EA support team (thank heavens for folks who have worked with tractors for many years- gray hairs means wisdom!) and it was as simple as replacing one connector. I really love my 3rd function switch and grapple and use it regularly. I suggest you get this kit from Mike and install it yourself or take the easy way (like I did) and take it to the dealer to install (best $225 I've spent in a while) and get you a grapple from your favorite dealer
I've been in industrial hydraulics for many years and it can be a real pain adding to a system. I like to try to stay with JIC but that's not always an option. Great video.
Good hints on taking hoses to town.
That is about half of what I was quoted by the dealer for a third function when I bought my tractor. Thanks for the video.
The rest is the labor and hoses...
I look forward to the next video.
Good job.
Very nice
I was thinking of using this to create a 3rd and 4th function on a T574 at my 3 point for top and tilt. Do you sell this kit and does it come with check valves to prevent creep while not diverted and using my bucket? Thanks in advance for any advice.
I need this.
I like your product but are you able to have it shipped to Canada?
Will a third ruction work the same?
LIKE IT !!
will not the device need a mounting bracket? lot of vibration on a tractor??
I have this 3rd function on my mahindra tractor. It's nice until you have to replace the solenoid. I've changed mine 3 times in 5yrs at $150 to $200 each time. Nimco hydraulic for a new solenoid through them is about $170 plus $30 to $40 shipping and handling.
Seven years ago I bought a used Kubota that had one leaking auxiliary quick connect on the back. I took it to my local hydraulic supply house and after about 40 minutes he came up with a replacement that he had to custom build because the old fitting had the 'British threads' on it. Mystery solved!
Do you know anything about the LS MT125?
I have a hydraulic leak under the seat. I was thinking of putting a set (double if possible) of hydraulics in the back, and a 3rd function on the front?
I am installing one of these on my new holland tc55da looks pretty easy. My only question is the hot lead into the fuse box. Looks like all of the spots are full per owns manual. There is a 10 amp fuss in the fuse box for aux. Would you tie it in there? Or is there a better spot?
I wired mine into the solenoid: czcams.com/video/QgLpA0cya70/video.html.
Why not assemble it with quick attaches and make it all just plug and play?
I ordered my tractor with a diverter valve so that I could use a grapple. After using the grapple for about ten hours or so, I have no idea how anyone could NOT have one!
Opens doors !!
Hi mike newly subscribed . I have a hydraulic question. Want to add a thumb on a small excavator, I want the thump to hold but have a safety over pressure valve to allow the bucket to move the thumb to a better angle and no damage the ram. Me question is what is the name of that style of hydraulic valve or system?
It's an X-Tra Valve Diverter available here: asktractormike.com/product/hydraulic-diverter-valve-for-tractor/.
I also purchased a diverter valve and love it; however I found that on my Kubota B7500, I couldn't use the curl/dump circuit as I had planned to originally; I guess most newer loaders have a loader valve curl/dump circuit that has a regenerative bucket dump bypass position in the valve; but many older loader valves don't have that feature; so instead I had to use the loader up/down circuit; here's an article about I had found when I couldn't figure out why my plow would only angle in one direction when I plumbed the diverter into my valves curl/dump circuit; I ended up finding this article and instead used my loader arm circuit for the diverter; as i said, apparently most modern loaders have a bypass position in the curl/dump valve www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/325959-how-cheaply-add-power-angle.html
Ron I believe I am in even worse shoes I have an Kubota 8950 its using the rear implement ports ports to power the loader as tractors that day in age where not plumbed for them. I believe a basic multiplier will be my better option.
Is that a knob on top of the diverter valve? If so, what is it's purpose.
That is a nut that holds on the electromagnetic coil.
Mike, you didn’t explain the difference between a true third function versus a diverted valve. The result is the same but the difference can be important depending on how people use their tractor.
Great video. I'm looking forward to the follow-up video. I will be upgrading to a 30-50 hp tractor soon. Can I ask why you own a New Holland rig.
Michael Bradley
I used to manage a New Holland dealership and I sold the TC line and really liked the tractors. When I moved out to the country I found that one for sale on Craigslist and jumped all over it. In my mind the TC's were ahead of their time, the rest of the industry has caught up with them and now other brands offer many of the same features that they pioneered. Plus, I have good relations with my old dealership and they can fix anything that goes wrong on one of them.
Hi @@TractorMike, I've been trying to see which HP your TC is (35,40,45). I had a TC40 years ago and they are great machines, and they were made in the USA. I replaced mine with a 3045 because I needed to switch to a hydro tractor (leg issues). The 16LA loader is built much better than the 250TL, which had that god awful cam-lock set up, and no bosses at the pins. When I wanted to add a 3rd function to the 3045 I added a rear remote and put T fittings on the valve, plumbed it to the front and the rear and could use it for either, one at a time. The rear remote lever on those tractors is right at the loader control so it was easy to switch from one to the other while operating. Just thought your viewers should know there is another option that gives them even more versatility for about the same money. Enjoy your channel, keep up the good work.
The real question is how much hydraulic fluid do you add
I prefer a third function valve instead of diverter
And it's easier to install
Why did you choose this one
Any info on the third function valve?
Why did you choose a diverter valve over a true 3rd function valve?
I can't speak for Tractor Mike, but I have a slightly older New Holland and I can only perform one loader function at a time. A third function valve on my tractor would function the same as a diverter valve.
Ease of installation and price. Also, I like being able to "feather" my grapple versus it being all on or all off. There may be some third function valves where you can do that, most I've seen don't have any way to regulate flow.
British Standard Parallel and British Parallel O-Ring fittings are for the devil... If you ask me, Pipe Taper, JIC, and O-Ring Boss are the only three types of fittings that should be allowed in hydraulic applications.
Mike, I have the exact setup as you. TC 40 with LA16 Loader. I wish to make this upgrade. Would you mind to send a parts list to my email?
John, I'll be glad to...just drop me an e-mail at mike@asktractormike.com and I'll send it back to you.
John, read my reply to Micheal Bredley for another option to add a 3rd function.
How much$$$$ ?
As I write this they're $499-$599 + freight. Available here: asktractormike.com/product/hydraulic-diverter-valve-for-tractor/.
Does it matter which lines (original tilt and curl) I use to run back to the diverter?
Bob, It’ll work either way, but one way you’ll move the lever to the left to close the grapple and the other way you’ll move it to the right. If you don’t like how it works you can always switch them. Now it DOES matter which way the lines go into the X-Tra Valve, they're directional. Good luck!
Follow the owner's manual, who ever does that? LOL
First