Hand Pump Well , off-grid, self-reliant water, everything you need to know
Vložit
- čas přidán 1. 06. 2024
- Here is everything you need to know about installing a hand pump well. How the pump works, what kind of pipe, what kind of couplers, how deep you can go etc......
If you want to be more self reliant with your own hand pump well here is the complete list of parts and the cost of each...wether its a cabin in the woods or an off grid shack, or even a family campsite a hand pump well might be your best option for water.
Here's the link to the well installation video.
• Driving a hand pump we... - Jak na to + styl
![[柴犬ASMR]曼玉Manyu&小白Bai 毛发护理Spa asmr](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0TsXQ7z2Dh4/mqdefault.jpg)
Best technology video ever . . . . no serious . . . engineers and tech people love to know how things work. I was held fascinated by the engineering and design tech of old school water wells.
For years my old farm house no one lived in it but I went out there lots time in summer. Every year I would pay a plumber $60.00 year just to drain my pipes so would not freeze. Finally honest plumber came out and showed me cut water off going to house then open all faucets flush toilet and they would not freeze. I was so thankful to him.
No shame in that. Nobody knows everything and we all need help now and then. It's called being a human
@@357bullfrog9 exactly! Even though you can google the info in seconds and people are too stupid to do so, But yeah, no shame...lol
@@SooSmokie ...but you have to know what to Google, and to even realize there is something you should be googling! For instance, when smart phones were invented, you would never have thought to look for something you did not know existed - you had to hear about it first.
@@iamamish i mean you can google how to drain water lines in house and find multiple answers. I literally tought myself how to re-plumb my entire house in a week or so. It's really a matter of whether you can teach yourself something. It's really whether you're willing to learn or not. Some people just refuse to teach themselves something unless they have it put in plain terms for them
Honesty with integrity. Beautiful knowing some will give, expecting nothing in return.
I'm a introvert also homesteading in NC , it was nice to meet you through this video.
I’ve been building a small homestead for a couple of years now. This is the most thorough, accurate, clear cut, informed, humble, and easy to understand tutorial I’ve ever watched. Not only well driving, but on any construction project. And I’ve watched hundreds of videos.
I’m also in medical school. For the love of God, could you please come in and teach a couple lectures on cardiac surgery?
Yes, what you said!!!
😂😂😂
I thought the same thing! Excellent instruction. Clear, smart, easy.
Homemadedriver you can buy at Amazon. Com
I find it interesting that a prospective do tor wants to homestead. How did you come to that?
Just came across this video. Excellent advice throughout. A couple thoughts from this retiree's former experience:
1. First and foremost, the presentation on maximum water depth is spot on. If the water table is below 25 feet from the ground surface, suction lift hand pumps are not practical.
2. Make sure you are in an area where the water table is in unconsolidated sediments, sands and such. No bedrock. Some areas with sand also can contain some rocks, you may have to move the well location a few times.
3. Ask around to see if the shallow groundwater is readily drinkable without treatment. In some areas, the shallow groundwater can have high solids content, odor, bad taste, you name it. Most areas will have good water. But no guarantees either way, it's worth checking beforehand.
4. Well point drive/slide hammers are available commercially. I've used them in groundwater work. Search "piezometer point slide hammer" or "well point drive hammer" and you can find them. If you buy a groundwater industry product, be prepared for some sticker shock, as they'll likely be a few hundred dollars. As an alternative, look into fence post and T-post drivers from vendors such as Tractor Supply. IMPORTANT - whatever you buy, make sure the working diameter of the hammer fits with the well pipe diameter you're using. I don't know enough to specify a specific hammer for a specific well pipe, sorry. Maybe other viewers can? I always used matched slide hammer/piping/well points from groundwater supply vendors in my work, but again but this would be an expensive route to take and there are alternative products.
5. Hopefully you'll never have to remove the well. Great points were discussed in this video regarding the evils of soil pressure and friction associated with the couplings and the well point. It will likely not be easy but more often than not it can be done. The tripod suggestion is on target, a rigged winch/come-along can work. For safety's sake - watch those cables and stay clear, there will be a lot of tension. If you are fortunate and end up with a working slide hammer, you can also add a length of well pipe extension above ground, slip the hammer over it, add the threaded drive cap, and pound upwards instead of downward as when you installed the well. Again, all hammer/pipe/cap diameters must work with each other. But at this point you'll know if this will work if you successfully used this method to install the well.
6. If you're in an area with nearby industry, gas stations, feedlots, etc. make your first call to the local or state environmental protection office. They will have information as to whether there are any known sources of groundwater contamination in your area. Don't put your well anywhere near your septic system's leach field!
Regarding the first three items - initial information sources can include the usual suspects (family, friends and neighbors). Local feed stores, hardware stores that sell the points might work. County agricultural extension offices, local county or state environment protection offices may work, also the State Geologist's office. Local engineering or environmental consulting firms are a possibility. Be patient if contacting these offices, as finding that right person may take some doing. Some scientists and engineers love helping the public when a non-routine question such as this comes up, others not so much!
Be careful with providing TMI as the subject of permitting may come up with certain regulatory offices. If you don't wish to contact the government offices because of privacy concerns, you could instead do a computer search on ground water quality in ___ County ___ State. Similar search for groundwater depth. Naming convention as to whether to use "groundwater" or "ground water," one or two words? Use both alternatives in your searching.
Apologies for rambling, hope this helps. Good luck!
Thanks for taking the time to write all of that, I found it very helpful.
thx ,, this was life saving information,, I am 700 feet from where a gas station used be
So a good way to get this data without triggering permitting agencies is to ask for a water quality report? Map? I’m looking for property and doing research on what data to look for and where. I want to make sure the water I use for my small plot homestead will be safe for my family & animals. Thank you for taking the time to write your comments.
I previously looked up water table depths for an acquifer (since our ground water higher up seems to be seasonal). It's over 120 feet deep. Is there a way to do this without hiring a rig and having all kinds of permits come with it? (By law, they have to register any wells they drill.) and what kkind of pump is useful then? Something with an internal screw going down the pipe, as it seems from this video that there's a limit to a lift/suction pump to 25-30 feet.
@@salsa090968 You can call the local or state environmental agency and ask about water quality in your County. Their web sites can contain useful info as well. You are interested in buying property and are screening general locations. Ask if there are any maps that show known contaminated areas or specific sites/locations (one example that comes to mind - present and former gas stations).
So thankful for this. My wife and I are moving to our property this coming Tuesday. We have no water, no electricity. Thank you for making this. I am installing next week. I'll let ya know how it goes. 💪🙏
Well? How'd it go!? 😊
@@narc-anon7774 Yeah I wanna know too
You guys have no idea how much y’all have changed our lives. Through your super instructional videos, we’ve gained the confidence to start doing things on our own and have since built two rooms, saved tons of money and are getting ready to implement a hand pump and who knows what else. I just want to say thank you so much to you and Brooke for your time.
Hey bro, I’ve read that steel galvanized pipe will have a lot of lead in it. Is this true or is that false. Installing one of these at home
This is one of the best CZcams tutorials I have ever watched.
You can buy a pipe driver. Look for the very heavy steel tee post driver. Don’t bother with the light weight ones. Mine is about 30 pounds but is longer than what you are using. At 14 feet I hit blue clay and it was pretty tough going until I broke through that at 20 feet. After that it was fairly easy. Took most of one day but I’m no spring chicken at nearly 70. Good video.
I have a heavy post slammer with handles on each side, I was gonna use that for my driver..
I honestly feel like l just attended an advanced college level class in well digging and maintenance. You sir are a natural born teacher! Thank you.
Well said. He's definitely good at relaying information.
Still watching this even after two years. Thank you so much for posting this.
I helped my dad dig 5 shallow wells in the 60s and 70s. They still work!
Sycamore trees.... are a sign of water.... your video was the best advice! Thanks!
Nice job, on your tutorial. I have a couple of points, however. 1.) If you use Teflon tape, and pipe dope on top, you will have a great seal, and IF you have to take it apart, for some reason(You probably will, your first time.), then the tape will minimize the mess. Also, I have been around pipe dope and Teflon tape for more than 30 years, and I have seen them BOTH leak, but I have NEVER seen the combination of the two leak. On another note, I prefer the grey pipe dope. It is less apt to cracking with age. 2.) There is such a thing, called a "Fence Post Hammer", that will work for your "well hammer". Good job.
Kudos for the tip - doubling up on the 'sealant' for such an important fixture doubles as peace-of-mind.
I agree. Best to take a little extra time the first time
I spent a great deal of time doing plumbing when i renovated bathrooms. Most jobs we just did the plumbing since it wasn't anything major, my boss taught me to always wrap teflon several times around the thread and then spread a layer of silicon around that.
I had asked that question if a tpost driver would work just the same….
John-my dad was a plumber and he also used teflon and grey dope. And yep, I have and used the "russian hammer" many times!
I don't know if it's been mentioned, but make sure your ball valve is made of lead-free brass / rated for potable water. You don't want lead leaching into your drinking water. Probably not a big deal but worth mentioning. (Brass often has lead added because it improved machinability enormously.) Stainless Steel would also work well.
Oh, please.
They are all lead free it's been that way for years
@@mauricesmith4270 that's not true at all. Plenty of leaded brass fittings on the shelf. I've even had to sign a thing at the hardware store stating that I would not use it for potable water.
You need to check for lead free.. you not completely wrong but they do make cheaper valve for like boiler and chiller systems.
Finally someone took the initiative to speak about a simple hand driven well w pitcher pump. My oleman taught me how to do when I was 10. He told me then...Son you may need to know how to do this one day , if power goes down or maybe you buy a piece of land and need water or to check the water.
Having a pitcher pump , pipe and point may make you a King one day He who has access to clean water will have the advantage. Gotta have it!
You are the best love from 🇨🇦❤️🛎
I drank some old well pump water on a old farm once was the coldest water I ever had.
@@isaackvasager9957 yeah we was discing a bean field with a 1066 int i think in Indiana when we found it.
Wells that run with pumps are literally heated by the pump.
I had an old hand pump well at grand dad's farm house in Indiana and it was the best water I ever tasted. Still not forgotten it 35 yrs later.
My grandfather had a pitcher pump outside the farmhouse.
.
Kept a can of water to seal the leather washer...always had that iron flavor....no extra money for stainless or brass pipe. Poor as dirt.
One good reason to drive a 2" stand of pipe is that the larger inside diameter gives you room to run a liner sleeve inside if your 2" pipe develops a leak over time. Let's say you drive a well with 2" diameter pipe, and over 10 years, the screen in your drive point wears out and you get sand/silt in the bottom. You can run inside with a 1" pipe stand and jet out the sand. Then you can run a liner inside and re-complete your well with a smaller I.D.
Nice add friend.
I was wondering about this.
@@northcoastrealty4362 Great Point
Man I hope you know how much you're helping the uninformed city slicker that has to bootstrap fast to prepare for end games 🙏🏼
Know zero about wells and pumps but must say, you explained everything so well that I can do this! GREAT JOB Sir....
This was excellent! And I like the way you were not goofy, silly, or trying to act like a comedian and telling stupid jokes or acting like a fool, which unfortunately far too many CZcamsrs engage in. And another huge thumbs up for not playing background music to further annoy your viewers. And you got right into the content without telling us your life story first. First class presentation.
There was crappy background music tho
@@rickjames6492 worked enough to keep you interested right?
I agree.
A very good instruction on well points.
50+ years ago my father and I installed several of them(from Sears). My father made an adapter for his jack hammer to drive the point and pipe. I stood in the bucket of the loader, with the jackhammer to drive the point down. Dad lowered the bucket as the pipe went into the ground. It worked well. This was before OSHA. Good Luck, Rick
That’s the best example of a well done job and honest explanation. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Well, I clicked on this just because I find the subject interesting. Currently, I have a motorized pump setup from a previous owner that seems to be either dried up or the screen down there is clogged. I ttried to pull the pipe using a come a long and rail road ties for an A frame but it didn’t budge. Only the come a longe handle bent so I left it. I’d like to get it going again so now I have the incentive to pick a new spot now that I’m here with great info on the subject. I’m going to install a well after the current freeze simply because everything covered here is so true, easy to follow and understand. For anyone reading, please know this information can’t be found in a simple search and can be applied to many aspects. Please also know, the wealth of information here is worth saving. So save the video, write it down, record it, do whatever you can do to keep it so you can refer to it. Thank you so much for posting. May God Bless.
Try driving it an inch or so.. kinda like tightening a stuck bolt a smidge, to get it to break loose. Also an old time car jack- high lift- and a length of chain wrapped around the pipe, sometimes works for extracting. Junkyard best spot to find them anymore!!
@@tomgrams2333 Hi Tom: I tried a 10 lb. sledge until it mushroomed. I put a pipe wrench on there with a 6’ piece of 1” black pipe to twist while my friend pounded. No go. Next time I’ll drill a 5/8” hole in there with a bolt to grab on with a hydraulic pull ram that I have left over from my body shop days. If that doesn’t work, I’ll have to find another spot. Thanks for helping me. May God Bless.
I’m getting ready to do a hand pump well and am so grateful that God led me to your video. Thank you for such complete, clear and concise info on parts needed and each step in the process. You are a Godsend.
Another tip - to keep any "junk" off the pump when not in use, the 10 quart Behrens #1210 hot dipped galvanized bucket works like a charm. Tip it upside down and it fits over the pump like a glove. The wire handle fits securely under the pump handle, furry woodland creatures can't seem figure that out and strong winds will not blow it off.
I have 1 question. WHY AM I JUST NOW LEARNING ABOUT THIS!!!! Been a prepper my entire life. Watch youtube every day and Im just now coming across this. Thank CZcams algorithm! Good job.
Did this 30 years ago on my farm in Indiana. This covered everything very well. This is by far the best explanation / tutorial I have ever seen. Great job!!!
Bought a 100 yr old colonial house and found a old well. Went to the archives for the county and found out it was the first hand dug well in the area which would make sense since it is just outside the old carriage house. Your video is very helpful with the pump itself. Thank you
Wow that's cool. What state
@@rppope1006 Missouri Cole Younger lived and grew up here.
All these years wasting time watching Netflix or playing video games while raising 4 kids on my own. I LOVE learning and your show is really fun. Now Im not only watching yours but others that help me learn the things I want to learn. Yours was the first. LOVE it!
Thanks
Yes that is so true I’m a pipe welder and I also palm many things with my fitter we did all kinds of stuff like that yes Ruth you leave couple threads not nothing on it and that way screwed on her that’s the best way to do it that way you don’t have to taste he’s right 100% right on that
Yes, .. I agree with the fella that said that THIS is THEEEE BEST video on well water / ground water extraction ever that I have seen on CZcams
As always, you make me feel like I could actually do this. Thank you
You can
Best video for all parts n their source with explanations. Thank you
New subscriber, because this is one of the BEST videos I've ever seen on CZcams. I'm a university professor, but you're a better teacher than I will ever be.
We're digging out an old well and I think we're going to use this exact setup. I'm glad you mentioned the smooth bore being perhaps the biggest difference between American made and those overseas. The ball valve is genius and so is washing out the pipes before putting them in the ground.
best of luck RB.
Might need a piston bore hone to true up a foreign made pitcher pump?
This video is the most comprehensive explanation of a point well installation I have ever seen. Answered all my questions and more. Excellent job. Keep making your videos. You are a natural teacher. Thank you!
Glad it helped!!
@@Bushradical does this well pump water in winter Wisconsin? Do I need a different pump cuz I’m thinking parts freeze????
@@jolee6751 Do you know where the Upper Peninsula Michigan is?
17:45 answers your question
@@SW-zu7ve yes, so this would work in Northern Wisconsin
I grew up with these type of pumps and you just gave the best explanation of the complete operation of how these pumps work . I like the closing valve .
Hello there, through all the thousands of the messages i want to thank you for the easy information and for the video to make viewers like me to understand how to make a well around the house. One of the best tutorial i got. May God bless you and the family
The old one was made in Rockford,IL. I was born and raised there and I never knew that we manufactured hand pumps back in the day. That's super cool!
Drove about 3 of these when I lived in Michigan! The guy who recommended not adding pipe dope to the first few threads!? He’s right! This is a damn good video!
Thank you so much for this sound advice this video is wonderful !!!!!
Great job explaining this procedure. The ball valve enhancement was a great suggestion.
Would a check valve do the same thing as the ball valve..
It should but then you’d probably need to take it apart before it freezes.
Ioooopoopop LLP op2 ki k1.
U3i[92778
@@barbarasteed3966 that's what I was thinking
Top-notch editing! All knowledge, No BS. Well done.
Great video!!! I love how detailed you are.
Pipe--DOPE! I installed a well by watching your video, here in the UP, today. 3/16/24
Awesome! Water is life and should be free!
On the ball valve when you drain it for freezing. Leave the valve cracked half way as the “ball” WILL hold water freeze and break!!! I have replaced MANY!!! Great vid!!!
Didn’t know this; thank you!
Was just thinking the same thing. Stay frosty my friend
There is a hand hydrant valve assembly that has a 5 foot pipe with a check valve under the frost line i guess that would not work with a non pressurized water source just wondering if that would work with a picture pump
If your leathers are dry, you can use up that gallon of prime water without getting your pump primed unless you take steps to conserve the water. When you are priming, you should raise the pump handle all the way before pouring in water. Then only push the handle down an inch or so while you are pumping. You can make short strokes up and down with the pump handle near the top end of it's travel and keep your prime water in the pump. If you push the handle all the way down, you empty the water above the plunger out of the pump. I listen for the sound of a bubble coming through the water in the pump each time I raise the pump handle that inch of travel. That's air leaving the column. When the bubbling stops and the pumping is suddenly harder, you're done. Raise the handle all the way to the limit and you might lose prime again though. Hopefully, your leathers will be swollen enough by then to seal and pump out the air.
Dave, A+ on the instructional. Clear, concise, and to the point. My biggest pet peeve with YT creators is the unnecessary blathering of unnecessary information. You sir, are the epitome of what creators should aspire to. You got my subscription and looking forward to exploring your channel further.
Thank you for making this video, it was very informative!
You can buy a 1-1/4" brass one way check valve and install under the pump (before or after your manual valve) This keeps prime without the need to operate the manual valve each time. (The check valve is also available at menards, same location/isle as the well drive couplings.) When I did my well a few years ago I also installed a "T" under the valves. The T also has a check valve and shutoff valve which is then plumbed to a shallow well jet pump. On demand water just like a normal well.
Here in Texas, Tractor Supply also sales everything needed and same brand.
Sells*
We have tractor supply in Michigan as well .
In MI...mernards is mask only or tries to be. TSC is cool about it. I've been told to leave many places. I will not repeat will not give tyrants my money. Well besides taxs. No choice..
Love this; thanks for standing up for our freedom! It’s not easy, but please be encouraged to keep after it. Thank you!
Thanks for this!
God works through you. Thanks.
The best video I've seen on the subject. Thanks
There is another way of driving the pipe down: in the hole you dug, add a bucket of water first, then you may join two 5 feet pipes to the driving point, and then you can simply raise the pipes up and the drop them down. With the water in the hole, the weight of the pipes can drive themselves down into the ground. You can add water into the pipe as well so the water can get to the driving tip position. This way, you do not need to use hammer or the home made driving weight.
Great tip; thank you!
I'm familiar with this driving possibility but I think the method may obscure when you have hit water.
An old timer plumber told me that if I wanted to have 100% no leak fittings, was to use Teflon Tape AND Pipe Dope, so that's what I do from now on. Never had a leak ever after that. Great video Dave !!
Thanks for sharing
Man i doubt an old timer plumber said that but ok. What do you do put pipe dope then Teflon and the more pipe dope?
@@JM-yx1lm, That's exactly what he told me to do to make every connection 100% no leaks from the beginning. Wrap a couple times with Teflon, then dope over the tape. I've had leaks with just Teflon, and leaks with just dope, but never with both. Some people are lucky and never have any leaks using just one, but not me. Lol.
@@augustreil LE PUEDEN PLNER TEFLÓN O SILICON TAMBIÉN PARA QUE NO HAYA FUGA DE AIRE
Thank you for producing this video!
This is one of the best videos I’ve ever seen on youtube!!!
You were informative, direct,
to the point, explained everything really “well” and made it easy to understand for someone like me who is not very mechanical.
I wish more content producers were able and willing to make videos like you!
My Granpa drove his pipe 50 feet to hit water, hand pump and it never failed to draw water. Best water we ever had!
For reference, the volume of water in a 2" tube at 24ft is just under four gallons and the water inside the tube will weigh 32lbs, which is why you seldom see hand pumps with a bigger well head than 8mtrs... to be honest you will seldom see a basic domestic pump with better suction than that too, so if you water table in the summer is 24ft below your pump then consider siting you pump at the bottom of the hill !! I speak from experience
So really it should be, Jack and Jill went down the hill to fetch a pail of water. Except then they wouldn't be able to fall down the hill, because they would already be at the bottom!
Sorry lol, just got done teaching at the local preschool...
I watched the episode of The Last Alaskans where Tyler Selden and his brother put one in his cabin so he and Ashely didn't have to haul water anymore. Pretty cool thing to do. Very informative video Dave.
The water quality is great there unlike most places and easy to find there.👍👌✌️
IN the cabin? Like inside the house?
13:50 thank you, excellent video, excellent teacher!!! Right down to skipping the bottom threads on applying pipe dope so you don't taste it ! Excellent excellent excellent !
We have a high water level in my area. We all ready have a pump but if, and when the grid goes down, we may need this. I have an old well pump...I think it is in fine shape. But, I will have it checked by the man who cleaned my well. You created an AWESOME video, and I have been concerned about the water in my prepping plan. My husband is not on board, so it is frustrating as my children are not in the immediate vicinity, and I am IT in terms of the research, gathering, planning and close to freaking outing LOL. Thank you for your help. Note...when my best friend got divorced, she, and the one she called on, me, to help her replace a headlight, etc. She called me one day, and I went over. She had the pipes of the sink apart, as she had dropped an earring in there. Now, she couldn't get it back together. I said, "We can probably do this, but when Jerry, (My husband) does this, he uses this white plumber's tape". We did get the pipes together, and I seriously mistakenly got that tape the right direction. Voila...No leaks. My husband always had to leave one leak.I was so ready to get a Plumbers license LOL.
The fitting you had in your right hand is actually what it called black iron which is a malleable iron, not recommended for drinking water and has a lacquer coating that helps prevent it from rusting for a short time, typically black iron is used for hydronic heating. The one is your left looks like stainless steel. Stainless steel is used is a wide variety of applications and is food safe. For your pipe dope I would recommend teflon tepe+leak lock. (leak lock comes in a bright blue container) Really good stuff imo and is potable water safe.
Couple of tips I have for you. Your drive coupling the one your going to replace , always keep it tight or it will split when driving. A nice size engine flywheel welded to an axle shaft makes a good driver. A person on each side lifting and dropping the flywheel makes good work. I have pulled new wells with a log and a piece of chain and a large block. Lay down the block close to the well pipe to set the log on, adjust to get good leverage. Hook the chain around the end of the log close to well pipe. Have one person lift the end of the log opposite of the well pipe. Wrap the chain two wraps around well pipe the push down on the log. Pipe will lift out of the ground. Keep repeating sliding the chain down on the well pipe each time. I hope this method makes sense to you. Thanks for your videos. ATB
Thanks
Thanks for the Video, Everybody Should have a Backup Water Source just in case the Grid goes down
Thanks for a great video, simple, concise, and well thought out and explained! Gonna tackle this with my hubs and this made it so much easier, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Fence post drivers are pretty commonly available products. They don’t generally weigh 90lbs, but that seems like a reasonable modification that can be added. I haven’t tried it, just a thought.
You can use them, you can also rent a jackhammer with a driver attachment. I've driven a few but never used "driving" pipe, always regular galv. Only thing specifically for driving I've ever used are drive couplings, check valve, and a drive cap. We always had a pump on hand for well treating too in case we had to flush it after using nuwell or muratic.
We filled our with lead and fence post driver will work just fine
You are very right a auger would also help👍👌✌️💧
I used my fence post pounder
One of the best videos I have ever seen. You should be a teacher or a instructor. You were very thorough
and I give an A+ for your efforts! Thank you so much!
Dope the top threads. You don't have to drink the water right away, but the threads not covered with dope will rust out faster and you could end up with more problems than just leaking.
I've watched 1000's of videos and, well, yours is just one more. Are you sure you're not Canadian? Ok, I do enjoy your videos. I'm not a prepper or camper or any of that but enjoy good content and sometimes I pick up tips from you that work on other projects.
I have worked with these for a few years. Your explanation was fantastic. I like your style and the way you addressed those areas you were not comfortable discussing.
In my area, the ground water is quite hard which requires replacement of the well point every so often. I have 2 points: one in the ground and one waiting. When I must replace, I pull the pipes out, swap the point and reinstall. I take the one just received and treat it with a bath of CLR rust remover inside a section of pvc pipe I keep on hand for just that job. This dissolves all the growths off the silt screen and reconditions the point for return to service [after a good cleansing].
Sounds like a good system.
Test water for contaminates drinking from surface water. I am old water well driller now retired.
If possible wash the insides of the pipe sections to get the oil off from production. Just like Dave and Brook found out it takes awhile to get that oil out of the water. I learned that from installing steel pipe on my water heater. Tastes nasty. Thanks Dave. Oops, I finished the video and see Dave addressed that.
You, sir, are thorough, clear, and well organized. You are an exceptional teacher. Thank you!
In Arizona our well is 350 ft. down but your video will be a big help if we ever move back to a place that has topsoil.
and streams and real trees, not bushes that think they are trees :)
I think that the no pipe dope on the 1st 2 threads tip is a great tip. For all applications, like hydraulics, air, or gas. Even for Nitrogen gas used for laser cutting.
This whole video is full of great tips.
Those 100% steel couplers are called merchant couplers. Some hardware stores have them and a lot don't. I use them a lot because they are weldable.
That ending!
"He taught me..."
(audio went out!) 😂
On the serious side, I appreciated the part about not putting pipe dope on the first two threads.
Thanks for posting
VERY "well" done!
(pun intended)
Thanks for the information!
Much love from Lansing!!!
Dude.. well done... pun intended.
Seriously though, super awesome explanations and advice. I thank you for your time and efforts!
Hey Hollywood...that is one of the best hand pump well vids to date. Thanks so much. With Bi den, I mean, rolling blackouts...this is a great idea.
Them Herrema’s are good ole plumbing boys ! Know a few myself. Well done 👍
I pulled about 20' of 2'' well pipe years back at an old ranch on the lake. The well was inside the house in the master bath closet with 8' ceilings. So I built a 4 by 4'' frame to sit above and center of my pipe but small enough to still fit in the closet ( Man it was tight ) I fabricated a goose neck out of 1 3/4'' pipe 6'' stock threaded on both ends and put caps on both ends with threaded wholes in the center of the caps. Cut that pipe in half at a diagonal went and got some all thread a few nuts and and a hook thingamachig and you get the gist on the goose neck. I then fastened a come along to the header of the pull frame and come along we went (Upward that is). I took this approach because I couldn't get this old pipe to budge just having about a foot of it above the ground. Man that goose neck worked like a charm. Here's your sign : ) Love your videos and stories. Keep them coming.
Thank you for sharing. Witching with welding rod helps find water. Also looking for a few wide leaf plants in a area, is a good indication there is activity of water.
AHAHAHAH
Old plumber turned me on to rectoseal number 5. It is much better seal and lasts forever. I could not find an old pump so I took a cylinder hone and cleaned up the bore. If you open the ball valve all the way you can trap water behind the jacket and it will crack, always leave ball valves slightly open over winter... Great video, I really appreciate all the information. You're increasing My carpentry confidence!!
Great information. This is something that would be a nice backup to have if the power goes out.
Used to have a hand pump at my grandparents cabin we kids love to get water and on the way back with the pail we would twirl the pail to see if water would stay in the pail. Good memories. Thanks very informative. 😊🇺🇸
That was an excellent description of how to drive a well. I use to help my father drive wells in the 50’s in
Arkansas. He did it the same way. He made his own driver. He took a 40” piece of 6” pipe with a driving
cap and then poured about 75 lbs. babbitt in the pipe. This would give you a longer stroke when driving
the pipe.
Well done,pun intended I used a piece of garden hose and stick down the new well and blow when i start getting close to water you will feel and hear the hose bubbling when the bottom of the sand point hits water. Then you can measure your depth needed to get the top of the point below the water table. They do make a shallow well pipe puller it has three dies that go in it to grab all the way around the well pipe for a straight pull. Gotta get creative when pulling it can be quite dangerous. Really well done video. I learned a few tricks ty. Skinner
Man I’m so glad I found your channel, and this video. We’ve been talking about doing a hand pump well for years, but never really knew how to get started. We have an old pump house that has a hand pump from the early 1900s, and I’ve always wanted to try to restore it but again… never really knew how. Now I do. Keep making great content man, this is probably some of the best videos on CZcams. Glad there are guys like you out there, doing this kind of stuff and then teaching the rest of us how we can too.
Great video! Thx! Best way to pull stubborn pipe well pipe is to use a heavy duty hydraulic car floor jack (2 ton or so) or just a regular hydraulic jack, wrap a chain around top collar of pipe, and the other on the end of the jack and jack it upward. You can use wood or the like as a base for the jack so it won't sink into the ground. Usually once you get the pipe moving, it gets easier and you can just keep cinching the chain down the pipe as it rises.
😉👍
Very good description. Step by step. I've never done this but I feel with you experience, I too could have free water.
Thanks Dave
your welcome
Thank you both for all your lessons, I really enjoyed them and learned a lot!❤️
Your videos are so well done and informative. Thanks much for the extensive work you put into making them.
Great video! I have to watch again! Need to write parts list and create a tip list. I am a woman homesteader and I can't thank you enough for this video!
you're welcome
That is malleable black iron and forged steel couplings, not cast. Your advise about no pipe dope on the first 2 threads is absolutely correct
Of all the tutorials I have EVER seen, this guy is the best instructor I've watched! Man, you should do instructional videos every day!! You are great at what you do. Thank you!
Wow…the BEST BY FAR explanation on how to build an off grid water supply!
Here in Mississippi, we can use shallow wells as well. I had a friend from New Mexico, who said that wells dug out there had to be deep. He said that you just have to ask people how deep the water table is for them to get an idea of how deep to dig a well.
Thank you! very, very, detailed, I usually have to watch 10 to 15 videos to get all info, but you answered all. God bless!