Make a budget backsaw AWESOME. Total upgrade!
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- čas přidán 19. 05. 2020
- Make a $45 tenon saw perform like a premium tool in this complete rehab video.
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Paul Sellers sharpening video: • How to Sharpen a Woodw...
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Tools and Materials in this Project (affiliate):
Spear and Jackson Tenon Saw: amzn.to/2zykhs6
Same Saw, 10 inches long: amzn.to/2T5h75Y
Crown Tenon Saw: amzn.to/3fM9uek
Digital Calipers: amzn.to/35YO4WK
Tack Hammer: amzn.to/35XSrBz
(I used this for removing the set. Not the exact one I use, but a quality tool.)
Saw File: amzn.to/2LuhxOV
(Not the exact one I use, but a good tool from a quality maker. Correct size for this saw.)
Saw Nuts: amzn.to/2T4hhKZ
Saw Nuts (different source): bit.ly/2Z4daSO
Super 77 Adhesive: amzn.to/2zymSCm
Dreadnaught Half-Round File: amzn.to/2Z504oi
Large Round File: amzn.to/2Z6hykb
Minwax English Chestnut Stain: amzn.to/2Z1iGpb
Clear Shellac: amzn.to/2AtgmNB
Paste Wax: amzn.to/3dW596P
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Wood Work for Humans Tool List (affiliate):
Stanley 12-404 Handplane: amzn.to/2TjW5mo
Honing Guide: amzn.to/2TaJEZM
Green buffing compound: amzn.to/2XuUBE2
Cheap metal/plastic hammer for plane adjusting: amzn.to/2XyE7Ln
Spade Bits: amzn.to/2U5kvML
Metal File: amzn.to/2CM985y (I don't own this one, but it looks good and gets good reviews. DOESN'T NEED A HANDLE)
My favorite file handles: amzn.to/2TPNPpr
Block Plane Iron (if you can't find a used one): amzn.to/2I6V1vh
Stanley Marking Knife: amzn.to/2Ewrxo3
Mini-Hacksaw: amzn.to/2QlJR85
Blue Kreg measuring jig: amzn.to/2QTnKYd
Blue Handled Marples Chisels: amzn.to/2tVJARY
Suizan Dozuki Handsaw: amzn.to/3abRyXB
Vaughan Ryoba Handsaw: amzn.to/2GS96M0
Glue Dispenser Bottle: amzn.to/30ltwoB
Orange F Clamps: amzn.to/2u3tp4X
Blue Painters Tape: amzn.to/35V1Bgo
Round-head Protractor: amzn.to/37fJ6oz
5 Minute Epoxy: amzn.to/37lTfjK
Dewalt Panel Saw: amzn.to/2HJqGmO
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I think I’ve got a dozen of those S&J saws at school, looks like my students will be rebuilding some saws! Thanks for the great content
Right on!
I think that is a great learning resource they will make use of again and again.
@@dakatone
Your icon looks like "Florida Boy Survival" w/out the beard.
How did that project go? Sounds so fun!
Rex, I sharpened my S&J saw per your video and took it to a dovetailing class this weekend. The instructor checked out the saw (having never seen one) and told me he was really impressed with how it was set up. Thank you!
Thank you for referring to Paul Sellers. You're the two woodworkers on CZcams I'm learning the most from. I inherited some wonderful old hand tools from my late father, and between you both, am learning what to do with them. I have no extra money now, but promise to throw some patronage your way when I can.
You should also check out Andy Rawls and Third coast craftsman
"Can we make these better than the manufacturer did?"
ABSOLUTELY. I've worked in manufacturing for years now, and time is always the most expensive part of the process (in America). If you have a machine that can churn out beech handles, by golly you machine the dickens out of those beech handles. Touch them up with as little individual man power as possible and get those babies and ship 'em out.
That's why I love these videos where you tune up cheaper tools. By contributing your own time to the product, you can cut down on the cost significantly. Always impressed with your stuff Rex. Thanks for continuing to post great work.
This video was actually full of really good advice . He turned a $45 saw into a saw worth at the very least $150.Excellent upgrade REX,just exce;llent.
Thank you!
@@RexKrueger You are also a great orator. Your content is pure, simple, helpful, organized, relevant, and always encouraging!!
I am not a woodworker; however, your tips and tricks have broadened my ability to fix a 100+ year old break-down, collapsible wardrobe and tidy up some of my son's monor house repairs. You have expanded my knowledge base!
Thank you for all of your help!
Except that now, today (7/25/21), that $45 price has been jacked up to $94! Jeff Bezos has got to pay for those trips somehow.
@@petereastwood7868, and on August 18th, 2021 I bought a 10" Spear & Jackson Model 5410Y Professional Tenon Saw for $38.06+ the Governor's Cut on Amazon Prime. The plate's 0.027" thick with a kerf of 0.033". Just checked and it's now $33.06 on July 22, 2022. Oh, and it has real saw handle hardware. No prying, just the proper size and shape flat blade screwdriver (I use my Chapman Gun Screw Driver Kit N0. 9600).
I've got some old tools that were cheap when I bought them 50-55 years ago. They are all rusty due to neglect and I had a BIG stroke, too. Well, I'm recovering and I'm going to make the tools recover as well. I like your term, hot rod. Yeah! I am going to do just as you say. Thanks. I cleaned up my carving chisels. They came out well. Your site has inspired me.
"These saws are flying off the shelves. Our poor design and questionable finishing must be just what people are looking for in a saw..." - someone at S&J probably
Unintended consequence of highlighting these cheap tools; sales go up on things that aren't very good.
@@RexKruegerThanks for the vid Rex, All the modern S & J saws seem to have diabolical handles, they have a nice cheap 24" reshapenable saw that feels like someone nailed a block of wood to a plate but same principle applies to that i.e. tidy up the teeth and reshape the handle (I havent got around to replacing the rivets yet).
@@RexKrueger It's a shame really. They could have made a great tool with not much more effort. They have to cut a shape, cut a better shape. The setting and the sharpening might be a excusable at the price point but not the handle.
@@martynspeck I think that's all could do the CNC, but mine is not as Rex says, the set is good ans I just had to take the protection coat of the plate to resolve the cutting issue .Anyway I'm in Europe, perhaps they are different?
Details cost more. I charge for sharp details (You can pay less, but the finished product just doesn't look as good.)and it looks like Spear and Jackson should have a premium lineup of 'tuned' saws from the get go. It sounds like they are using premium materials and saving cost in the assembling stage. It saves us crafty people money. I do like my UK made tools, they are well made and I shall pick up a saw here shortly.
This channel is amazing! I often feel like there's a massive paywall between me and any success in woodworking because I can't get all the tools I thought I needed. Turns out it can be a lot cheaper if I just put some time on. Thank you Rex! You're a true gent.
They want you to think you need to spend thousands. You don't.
@@RexKrueger I really like woodworking and software/computers for the same reason. You start with some basic tools and you use them to make better tools and to learn how to use your tools better.
Learn, do, learn, do, learn. Your videos are simply amazing.
Also if money is tight, like it is for me look on eBay. I bought a slightly older but equally ugly spear and Jackson for £10ish delivered.
Rex thanks for the freebie. I'm loving the router plane from your plans. Well worth the money.
@@PandorasFolly generally i like computer software for a slightly different reason. the ease at which i can get products for free easily makes up for the lack of a secondhand market for a lot of newer software.
for the sanding on the inside and tight radius you can back the sand paper with duct tape that way cheap sand paper lasts way longer and it's easier to work
Nice tip.
One thing I can never understand is why so many woodworkers are so ready to use sandpaper, especially when a fair amount of material needs to be removed. I personally prefer to use files, rasps and rifflers. In fact one of my most popular tools is a Farrier's rasp [ designed for shaping horse's hooves ]. This two sided flat tool [ super coarse one side, coarse on the other ] is perfect for shaping wood where a fair amount of material needs to be removed. The finer work can be performed with rasp or rifflers or files of various types. My original shop teacher would not permit the use of sandpaper most of the time, and then only for a final finish and only with a sanding block. In general my own judgment is that sandpaper and emery cloth are more suited for sharpening chisels and gouges.
@@crustyoldfart - if you don't understand you should ask them directly.
This is a quality tip.
@@crustyoldfart What if I just like to use sandpaper?
I am just putting an old wooden handle on a new blade, because it felt soo much better. These video's are what youtube is all about imho. Learning from the experience of million of hours work and multiple generations in a few minutes... I would hate to see old crafts disappear like let's say building piramids ;-) Thanx!
This is a great saw. Don't ever want a new one lol. I filed off a flat part on the rivets and drilled them out rather than prying them out. Very easy. I also used the Taytools 115720 solid brass saw nuts which were expensive but totally worth it imo. After all that work and an espresso finish on the handle the brass really pops. People constantly ask how I afforded such an expensive saw.
My wife has never watched your videos but this is already her favorite youtube channel just based off the amount of money I am not spending on tools! Great video keep up the good work!
Your wife and my wife would love each other.
LOL... I found out that my wife is already one of Rex's Patrons! (She's already seen this video)
I’ve mentioned this a couple times and it’s off topic from this video but yesterday I had the occasion to use my Stanley palm plane again. Before watching your videos I wouldn’t have used it. What I was doing wasn’t really finish enough and wouldn’t be seen by anyone anyway, but having it available and set up to work properly I pulled it from my tool box just to get more time on it. I’ve had this tool for over 10 years and used it once I think, had an unmemorable experience. But I’m now enjoying it. I like how the weight of it does the cutting I’m using it to bevel the edge and smooth the endgrain . I do need to replace the blade, I don’t know how I cracked it. But even cracked it is satisfying to use. I’ve been collecting wood from furniture that is being thrown out. I picked up a broken chair and I’m now using it as a work bench. Starting small and cheep. My level of precision is too far from ok to attempt to make anything large like a work bench yet. But I’m am gaining on my patents and expectations. Just wanted to thank you for putting this information out here because if it wasn’t for your explaining it the way you had I wouldn’t be trying.
Awesome template! While watching, I realized that the old miter box saw I got from my dad 35 years ago was almost identical to the one you improved in this video. So I used your template to re-shape the handle of mine. I've used the old saw a bit now and then over the years, but now the fit in my hand is SO much better. I'm sure I'll use it a lot more often now. Thanks so much for all your videos and especially for sharing this template at no cost. (I'm all about the bargains.)
Rex, this solution is brilliant! I've got all kinds of saws, including two cheapos. They will now experience a resurrection of sorts. Your approach creates a perfect merger of classic quality features and sensible cost. Like I said: brilliant.
Glad to help!
This is gold! I modify tools and anything else that I use often to make it suit me better. I love the mindset to modify something cheap to get the value out of it. Keep these coming!
Right on!
Really useful tips, Thank you Rex. Also, great that you made reference to Paul Sellers, he has inspired so many of us. Cheers.
My pleasure!
Rex, you have (already previously) persuaded this guy to get into woodworking. I never thought turning wood into dust and shavings would be so rewarding!
I recently bought a new Lie Nielson tenon saw. $280.00 shipped. It's almost impossible to start with a 11 tpi, so what I have to do is start the cut with a crosscut saw and then use the tenon saw to finish the cut. It's so aggressive i have to be very careful with it not to blow out the cut. I hope it gets better with time being able to start the saw. You're a master at providing solutions for woodworkers that can't afford high end tools. Thank you for that and your efforts to make these videos.
Definitely loving this approach to getting "high end" tools from "low end" tools... right in my budget and thought process. Heck, my anvil is a 2 foot length of railroad track that cost me $5 and a 6 pack of beer for a friend to cut to shape for me.
2' of rail makes a beast of an anvil. cheers!
My grandfather kept all of his hands saw tuned very much like that. He did it with a "saw-set" and I had a tool box stolen out of my shop with his saw-set and several other of his tools in it. He would own nothing but a Disston and I still have all five that he owned...great video...
Mr. Kruger, on August 18th, 2021 I bought a 10" Spear & Jackson Model 5410Y Professional Tenon Saw for $38.06+ the Governor's Cut on Amazon Prime. The plate's 0.027" thick with a kerf of 0.033". Just checked and it's now $33.06 on Amazon this July 22, 2022. Oh, and it has real saw handle hardware. No prying, just the proper size and shape flat blade screwdriver. (I use my Chapman Gun Screw Driver Kit No. 9600 because blade contour is very important with slot screws.) This version has a cherry stained hardwood handle that, surprisingly, looks like sycamore. "Who Knew?"
One thing to say about this saw is that the original set is hybrid: one tooth on one side, one on the center and one on the other side. From what I've been seeing on CZcams, this filing is for a rip saw (no flean) which I understand is fine for a saw with such small teeth.
I have to say, I'm beyond impressed with how well these adjustments have worked so far. I just finished sharpening my S&J back saw, and it's a completely different tool! Now for that handle...
I must say, this is really well done and cleverly approached. Used to be a woodworker and now a metalworker - it always confused me how woodworkers used to be afraid of metalwork but you showed the huge benefits you can get with some ingenuity and courage. And massive kudos to you for drilling steel with a bit and brace!
I just finished buying and modding this saw. My carcass saws do most of what I need, so I was reluctant to spend top dollar on a larger tenon saw that I may not use that much. I have a few suggestions resulting from my hacking, if someone is still thinking of doing this:
I left the rivets in place while working on the saw - clamping the blade in my vice made it easier to carve the handle. However a plastic blade guard or tape on the teeth are a good idea - as the saying goes, don't ask me how I know. When my back-ordered brass Chicago bolts come in, I'll drill out the rivets and then shellac my handle.
Watch out for the vee notch on the inside front of the handle. With my saw, the template put that notch well into the saw plate. To be safe, make the notch shallower (or leave it out).
Unless you have large hands, leave the red cutouts on the inside tips of the two horns at the back of the handle until you have tested the fit. Ideally the horns should support your hand at the top and bottom with no slop.
Just picked up my S&J backsaw to do this mod. Oh my! Thing is heavy--a tank. That's good--brass back. But when Rex says the handle his horrible, believe him! I am pretty tolerant of so-so cheap stuff, but this handle is really bad. Can't wait to fix it!
Started: Fixing the set... I'm using the hammer anvil as that's what I have. Put some painter tape about 1/8" up along the blade then marked sections equal to the width of my little brad hammer (like Rex's). That way I can measure each section and see how I'm doing. Made one light pass. Be careful--easy does it! Even a light tapping has an impact. I started at 0.050 on my saw and after one pass mostly 0.040 with a few sections 0.037. Doesn't take much. Now I can lightly return to the sections that need more help. I re-measured after every pass (3 in total) and now each section ranges between 0.035 - 0.037. Nice! Sharpening is next but just for grins I tried making a cut to compare new vs re-set. What a difference! The re-set saw's cut line was clean, thin, and straight. Now to sharpen...
Hey Rex watching some of your old videos again, here’s a tip a saw in family handy man. Take a fine tooth hacksaw blade and screw it into a bench or floor support or anything really. Slip your sand paper under it and use that for clean rips on your paper.
Thank you Rex! I can't tell you how much I appreciate these videos. I have a couple old backsaws that I can use your template on and will as soon as I get some space to work in.
This is the video I've been waiting for. I bought the spear and Jackson a couple months ago.
Now that explains an awful lot of the problems I had with saws - thanks a lot for the good advice, Rex! Keep up the good work!
Have done two now and would recommend grinding the top of the rivets flat (on the opposite side to the medallion), drilling the heads off with a 7mm drill bit and punching the rivets out. The sharpening tips worked well and both saws now start easily and cut true. Thanks again.
I watched a couple of your videos and was thinking "this guy's cool maybe I'll watch more" but when you recommended Paul Sellers I was sold (no pun intended). He got me into woodworking in the first place, and I have a Spear & Jackson like the one in this video but a little shorter that is dire need of the upgrades you're suggesting. I got the handle printout. THANKS!
Dear Rex Krueger ! Thank you for providing the best information and knowledge about the saws and also Thank you for this wonderful video,
my all the best wishes are with you.
I needed a good saw for joinery and followed your consels. Bought a saw and a good old stanley number 6 for the very price I intended to spend on a saw..... Thanks .
Another great project Rex. Thanks for sharing it and thanks for making the pattern free. Good on you for helping folks out.
when restoring some of my grandads old tools I found one of these saws and thanks to your advice on how to fix up handles and sharpen a saw, I got it back up and running again. thankyou rex love your videos, keep it up
I’m one of your tag along viewers , but just wanted to say that I find pretty much all of your vids packed full of interesting info
Fantastic timing! And a great money saver.
I bought myself this S&J saw for my own Father’s Day present! I have watched this video now probably 15 times today! 4 different kinds of rasps were used to shape the handle: pics coming soon for all to see! The hardest part was enlarging the holes in the plate. My 9/32 drill bit was much too dull. Also very glad to see that the plate end is visible in the handle loop on yours too Rex! I thought I had really messed up lol!
That's great thanks. I picked up a couple of S&J backsaws that had been thrown away a couple of years ago. Couldn't get on with them so they have sat on a shelf ever since. They will be getting the upgrade so thanks for sharing.
Just done this mod to a vintage S & J saw, the handle in particular feels soo much better!! Brilliant video!
When you talk about rolling the file, instead of left and right (which can be confusing, because the camera’s left isn’t the same as yours, and irrelevant, because your viewers may Mount their saws in their own vises with the handle oriented the other way), consider using “toward the handle” or “away from the handle”.
Great video. I did this to a 100 + year old Disston backsaw about a decade ago. It's very satisfying to understand how to maintain all of your tools and to make them work properly. You're so right that it isn't about the money but how you maintain and use the tools you have.
Thank you so much for keeping your channel Rex. You are an inspiration
I appreciate that
I'm a woodworker. I tend to watch woodworking videos to pick on things wrong with them due to being a partypooper. but yours.... they're actually informative, even for an experienced craftsman. And entertaining. Love your work
yea as far as i can tell only one thing i would add is that the beefy handle is most likely intentional.
i have seen this on other devices, tools and even some high end precision rifles with extremely blocky butt stocks, the idea is that "one size fits all" means "this size fits no one" and nobody knows which shape of handle you need better than yourself, so they make it beefier on purpose so that even someone with giant gorilla hands has enough stock left over to touch it up with a file and some sand paper. it is a genius idea and not something worth criticizing, if the handle was crap *and* too small to fix up, then we'd have a problem.
Hello from Australia I have been restoring antique furniture for the past six years or so was an interesting learning curve then I came across a supplier of good pallet wood (pallets used in containers to ship windscreens and that sparked my interest in woodwork.Living off grid with a decent workshop I started building various furniture am now at the stage where I have retooled part of my workshop for wood work its videos like yours,along with the rebuilding of the old school joints that have brought me to this point and that inspired me to branch out.Thanks
I am going to do this to one of my old saws.
Good luck!
Amazing tips! This guy is a genius! I just watched the plane restoring video too and I am bowled over by Rex's knowledge, skill and teaching ability.
Hey Rex, Enjoyed the video. Very well done and always encouraging to see a fellow woodworker make tools.
Thx for the inspiration. Finished today the restoration (handle building) of one of my vintage saws. Keep it coming!
I am waiting for this video/project, as always. My cheap back saw just arrived yesterday!
Best one yet. Speaks to my inner cheap side. I might even look at my saws to see if they could use some TLC.
CHEERS stay safe everyone.
Bravo! I have been following this channel for a while and it has turned out to be an awesome channel for beginners....
Thanks for all the great info and the template. Can't wait to get to work on my old saws. Will be buying some plans soon. Your channel is my favorite. Thanks again.
GENIUS suggestion! This made my cheap Buck Bros. miter saw cut so very much better. Thanks for sharing this!
Great re-work! Impressive ability to recognize and correct the problems. Very very well done!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video, I followed these steps and managed to identify the issue with a vintage saw I'd sharpened. I thought it was my skill that was the issue with me cutting straight, but after noticing the set on the teeth was ragged and knocking it back a little, I'm able to cut much more accurately to my marks and with a significantly cleaner cut.
(also I picked up the vintage saw for £20, so should probably go in as a suggestion; if youre going to restore the saw anyway, I'd hit the vintage market over the new market without even blinking)
Thanks for everything!! Your videos always helpful, practical and very enjoyable, because of your videos i have started using hand tools and I'm still in a learning curve. I'm know building the joiter bench... Thanks again for all the time that you are putting into the video and teaching!
Man, I'm still in the learning curve!
Such great conent. I always like coming back here! There's nothing better than sharing knowledge and showing people that they can do something themselves instead of buying it.
Just today i took an old dovetail saw we had laying around with a zylindrical handle (impossible to use), cut off the old handle, drilled some holes into the sawblade and made myself a new handle similar to the one in your video. Then i sharpened it. I guess, without people like you i wouldn't even have thought about doing this. And now i made a previously useless tool into something useable again. Great feeling :)
I was also surprised how much of a difference the handle makes. It's like a different tool. Cuts much better.
Thanks for the templates, much appreciated
Great video as always Rex. I appreciate your time and energy you put into your content. Wish I could do more for you!
You're here. That's enough.
This is a great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. I hope someone from Spear and Jackson watches this video.
I don't know; if they make it better, it might cost more.
Thanks Rex. It looks a lot better. What a difference!
This isn't just a great way to get a quality saw at a cheap price! It's looks like a very fun project.
I had more fun than I expected to!
@@RexKrueger there is definitely something especially satisfying about making something not only better but also your own.
Nice job.
Another option is going to a used tool store or a flea market or a tool swap meet. I got a nice old dovetail saw for $20.
@@gmmeier321 Not too many flea markets going on right about now...
Holly molly! It really does eat the wood like butter! That is a lot of material removed. Is that all because of sharpening and set aligning? Amazing.
I just bought this saw and followed these steps (minus the handle), the improvement was definitely there I'm pretty happy with my cheap saw.
Patreon Member #1505 here. New as of this morning.
Thanks for your addicting channel. I'm learning tons and I'm glad to see someone doing this without the standard power tools like table saws. band saws. etc. Nothing wrong with using those tools, but I don't have any, so this channel is perfect for me.
I have all the power tools, but I'm learning to get by without them. Turns out, it's not that hard!
@@RexKrueger
And I just don’t have the room for big, stationary power tools. Turns out, I don’t need the noise, hazards and expense, plus I am developing skills that are versatile and enduring.
Wow. I had no idea how much improvement can be added to a marginal back saw. Thanks for the very informative video with excellent description.
Another Rex special, a top notch job Rex, I learnt a lot, now I will upgrade my 2 tenons.
That handle is gorgeous! Thanks for making the plans free... think this is gonna make its way into my project stream. Wonder if anyone from the company that makes it will ever see this and make these improvements to the manufacturing process
i use shellac in guitar building. feels so nice on a guitar neck. love the smell too. hard to put into words the feeling shellac brings to something you touch and move your hand across...
Awesome video on remaking a tool. Thanks for sharing and please continue your work and teachings.
This is badass - love the content Rex
This was a super fun project, I appreciate how much time you put into your videos. It's inspired me to get back into woodworking again.
I have an old S&J Sheffield dovetail saw. Those old handles really are amazing !
Interesting fact... I used to shoot rifles competitively when I was in the Army. When you point you index finger down the barrel of a rifle or pistol, then raise the firearm to point it a target, your brain instinctively aligns your index finger (and thus the barrel) to the point you are looking at on the target.
I would strongly suspect that pointing your finger down the saw blade and looking at a point past but along the line your cutting does the same thing, keeping the saw cutting along the line your finger points at.
Sir Krueger I like the way you takes pride in what you are doing, I full joy your videos, thanks for taken the time to put out these dynamic videos together, I'm from the old school by way of my early training, in spite of the technology of power tools that I now use , had I not learnt the as you do I would not know how get myself out of some difficult areas in the Carpentry ,you certainly brings back memories , Continues to do what you are doing to help others , your skills is exceptional.blessings
Thank you kindly!
Rex, RE sanding curves...Y'all might already know this but searching 442 comments to find out is...cumbersome. Mr. Medina Sanchez is right on with the duct tape hack. Cursing naturally results from the torn paper. Cover the whole back side with Gorilla tape. Extend that tape past the edge a few inches and fold it back on itself and onto the surface of the sandpaper for a very secure handle which allows you to use all but a fraction of an inch of the surface. You can even fold in a scrap of something to make the handle easier to grip.
I have a kinda good choice maded, all my saws i own i inheritanced or buyed for 1€ and tuned them up. I build for every saw a fully new handle i designed by my own. I made over seven prototypes till i was happy with the fit for my relativly small hands and i was statisfyed with the Design. Im really happy with my old saws😊
Nice ....
Thanks so much for making the templates available!
Rex this is a fantastic insight a to how to elevate the level of an average tool into a great tool. Well done and thank you for your guidance.
Thanks for taking the time and sharing these great hints and insights!
For resetting the kerf. Fold a sheet of paper around the saw plate and teeth. Making a hot dog of the saw using paper.. Using a metal vise with smooth jaw faces (or add flat stock to the jaws of any vise). Clamp down on the teeth. Run down the blade overlapping the clamping by about 50%. You can do this a few times. This will reset the kerf. Mine saws started with a kerf of 0.025" wider than the saw plate. I reset it to 0.01" of extra kerf width using this technique. The sheet of paper provides two benefits. The first is that it will create a minimum kerf width that you can reset the teeth to. The teeth penetrate the paper. The flat saw plate does not. The paper will prevent the jaws from entirely removing the kerf or resetting it to the opposite side. The second is that it provide uniformity of the set of the individual teeth. You can tap the teeth trough paper using a small hammer like Rex shows. This will provide to some extent the same benefits as using paper in a vise.
Rex,
I saw this video and its plane to see you nailed it..
But seriously....I'd like to say thank you for this and all of your other great videos.
You are one of my favorites that I follow.
D.H.
Wow, thank you!
I so need a good saw and I'm glad this video just came on because I was looking at that spear and Jackson the other day but honestly now I just want one from Sheffield to go with my vintage Sheffield tools
One of your best videos! Thanks for posting it.
Thanks Rex. It fits both saws in your description on the template.
I have several of these s&j back saws and a steel backed version is my go to saw . I bought it at a recycling shop here in the UK and paid 50 pence for it , probably about 75 cents US . A quick clean up , sharpen and set and it's the perfect saw . Thanks for the video and stay safe.
Sooo articulate in your message. Luv it!
Great job as always Rex, I am lucky enough to own a Tyzac vintage tenon saw, a beautiful saw, but now needs some work, so thanks for posting, stay safe
WOW! What a great Project! - Thanks Rex!
My pleasure!
Thanks Rex, this affordable tools thing is great. Woodworking for humans is great.
Gonna amend my comments. So I fixed the blade--it works great--then decided to move on to fix the handle. That's not going so well. The problem is getting the 3 S&J rivets off the saw. They don't "pop off" even with leverage applied. I've chewed up my wood pretty good trying to get these out. I tried drilling out the rivets, and after basically destroying the top of one rivet, managed to peel the top off and bang the shaft out of the hole--further damaging my wood, as it was really fixed in there. Looking at the rivet I just extracted I'm not sure if they're screwed, pressure-fit, or what--but I'll tell you this: they're fused. Even out of the saw, wrestling these with vice grips I couldn't budge the two halves. No amount of prying was ever gonna get these apart. Maybe they're epoxied?
TLDR: I would think very carefully about removing the handle. I think I may have destroyed my saw and will need to try again with a new saw. Looking at Rex's drawings for a reshaped handle, I think you can probably do most or all of his suggested changes with the handle still attached to the blade, and that might be the better route. Unless you're luckier than me--leave those rivets where they are.
Hi Rex. I got a S&J saw for Christmas this year and I had to adjust the saw set as well. They seem to set these saws too wide. After trying your trick to take out some saw set it worked like a charm. My set ended up as 0.035 all along the length of the blade and it's beautiful to use now. I just have to work on the handle now. Thanks.
I was looking online at Crown + S&J tools just other day and trying to find some that were NOT manufactured in China. Some gardening tools were UK/European but the woodworking ones I'm not sure about. Manufacturers should make it clear the country of origin and not hide it away. Great video, so subbed 👍
New woodworker and its funny I purchased the 9550B. Going to attempt the upgrade. Thanks for nice vid.
I picked up the Veritas back saw you reviewed last week and I love it.
I own the 10" "professional" tenon saw from S&J and it came with screws to attach the blade. Getting the handle off was no struggle at all and I could reuse them. It is shorter and has less height than the "traditional" version, probably something in between the crown saw you reviewed and the veritas dovetail saw. Might be worth a shot for those who mainly want to do dovetails and don't require the full tenon saw size (I also find it easier to control for this purpose than a traditional size saw I also own).
Looks like you put more work into this saw than the manufacturer. You should remove the branding and replace it with your own. Awesome video by the way 👍