Thanks for sharing. It is a good idea to put some copper or silicone grase on the pads where they slide in the brackets. Also grease the pins holding the caliper . REmove the brake fluid reservior cap to lessen pressure when pushing the piston back. Its a good idea to clean the robber boots and the area behing them, before pushing them back in the housing. Hang the caliper by a bunjee cod in case it falls ans stresses the brake lines.
Bought a kia picanto as a first car 6 months ago, failed its MOT on brake and handbrake, this has saved me well over £300 quid in labour watching these, excellent videos
Kev! Really great videos in this Picanto series. You are very informative, practical and obviously passionate about what you do. You have saved me hundreds with your concise video explanations 👍👏
Hi Kev. Well put together video. However having just completed a full brake replacement and service on a 63 model and many other vehicles I would recommend as far as maintenance and longevity go that the following is undertaken. 1. The caliper mounting brackets are removed and the grooves in which the shims fit are dressed with a file. The grooves rust causing the shims to lift and restrict the lateral movement of the pads. 2. Those sliders were showing signs of seizing due to water ingress and corrosion. Again they should be removed, the rust cleaned and reassembled using silicon and rubber grease on the respective components. Its surprising how bad they get. As you've put new pads in it will probably be a while before you go in there again. If you don't clean and maintain they will seize leading to premature and uneven pad wear particularly on the rear. Also efficiency is compromised. If neglected long enough it may well result in component replacement. Its not until you do a thorough job that you realise how bad the brake performance has deteriorated.
Excellent very helpful video and nicely explained. If you don't mind I have a couple of questions (sorry first time changing brake pads so sorry if silly) Firstly, on the new pads there is a removable piece of tin - are you supposed to remove this - looks like yours was left on. Secondly - don't suppose you would do a video for the rear pads as well as cannot find a video anywhere to help. I attempted one side on rear but made very hard work of it as I did not release the handbrake (so was hard getting caliper off), then I had to remove extra bolts as was not enough play on cables to remove caliper. Also, getting Caliper in was hard - not sure if it's squeeze type or wind in type on rear??? Any help appreciated, Cheers
Maxie, the little piece of tin is there to act as an anti vibration shim. It is supposed to prevent the microscopic vibrations that occur under braking which can manifest themselves as squealing. It isn't mandatory to leave them in in my opinion. As for the rear brakes, the car is not mine, it belong to the wife of a friend, however I am sure that they would like the rear brakes to be serviced at some point so I will be sure to do a video. Glad you found this video helpful, don't forget to subscribe!
@@KevsShed Cheers, I have subscribed. Thanks for confirming what the removable tin bits are, the pads that came out didn't have them which i why I assumed they have to be removed. In general do you find most rear brake calipers are the wind in type and fronts and squeeze in?
@@maxiemillie4327 Wind in style rear calipers are fitted to cars where the handbrake operates the rear calipers, I cannot remember off the top of my head if the Picanto had this style or not and as I do not have the car to hand right now, I am unable to check. One thing that I would say is that with a bit of determination, wind in types can be done with a pair of stout pliers if you are in a bind as I have done this before when I didn't have my wind in tool available. However I did have the calipers off the car and in a vice at the time! To be fair, a wind in tool can be picked up very cheaply from companies like Laser which are available in most motorfactors. Good luck!
@Kev's Shed Great Picanto vidoes and many thanks for posting them as helping me sort out my daughters 2008 model. Is the crossbeam where you placed the axle stands? I want to do all 4 corners on her car that has been stood still for a coupe of years so will be removing wheels to put in to get tyres changed, pads as a minimum and probably discs over a couple of days. Want to therefore raise all 4 corners and leave it raised while I look at what needs doing and then get stuck into it
Not even remotely necessary, this is a habit from by-gone years when manufacturing processes weren’t as good as they are now! If there was supposed to be grease on the back of the pads then the manufacturers would do it from the factory! I have never had a brand new vehicle with grease on the pads! Glad you liked the video though buddy 👍🏻
Hi Kev... thank you for your great videos.. my lad has a Kia Picanto 2007 0.9 manual... one of the guide (slider) bolts has fallen out of his front near side caliper and we can't find the part number anywhere to get it replaced... I wonder if you can possible help please? Many thanks.. (Phil - Lancashire)
Great video, thanks! Seems pretty doable. I have a 2012 picanto, so it's the newer model. Anyone know if there are much, if any differences? Or can I just go by this video to do it?
@@KevsShed Thank you. I'm working on it now. Got a new brake disc on one side on today, had a bit of trouble with putting in the new pads, and then it got dark. So ill finish tomorrow. I have one more question. I don't really understand how these brakes seem to work. I understand the piston pushes the brakepads against the brakdiscs, but what causes the pads to move back again? How come they don't stay stuck against the discs?
David, it will be an almost identical process, I haven't looked at the 2017 model personally but I believe that the chassis are very similar. All brake pad exchanges are pretty much the same across all makes and models with only very slight variations. You'll manage it fine!
You could use a scissor jack to lift the car but do not put legs etc under the car until it is fully supported on stands, do not work on a suspended vehicle supported by a jack alone!
Hello, I don't know if you will see this but how did you know what brake pads to buy? I am replacing my brakes on my picanto and I have no idea which ones to get
If you go to your selected motor factor of choice, give them the VIN number of the car and they will be able to tell you which pads you need. This takes all of the guesswork out of it and saves you buying the wrong ones! 👌🏻😎
J Williams although the 2012 was a revised model, the process will be pretty much identical. In fact, I haven’t got any drawings to hand but I would not be surprised if the calipers are the exact same. Regardless, there will be next to no difference in the process. Hope this helps 👍🏻
Unsure where you live but if you give your registration number to your local motor factors they will be able to advise you on the best option for your car. They will vary in quality with the price reflecting this 👍🏻
Under the front there is a crossbeam where the suspension arms are attached, this is a good hardpoint to jack the front and on the rear I used the axle beam between each of the rear wheels, always use axle stands after jacking though, never work under the car on a jack on it's own in case it fails. I do know of people that like to put the wheels as they remove them under the car also as a second level of contingency but I have never felt the need. hope this helps 👍
@@KevsShed Again, thank you for taking the time not only to make these videos but to type out a good lengthy response. Especially given that you don't owe us anything. Thanks for helping me out in a pinch!
It wasn't scraping, that is the sound that brand new pads make on an old disc. Once bedded in they were fine. FYI this car has had 2 MOTs since this job was done, both of which its passed with flying colours!
I’m fully aware! The reason for that is because it is totally unnecessary! It is not called for in any factory service manual and no brand new bike or car I’ve ever bought has had copper grease on the pads! It is an archaic workaround left over from the 60s when hydraulic callipers were in their infancy and it was used to stop squeal, totally unnecessary on any more modern cars. Regular preventative maintenance should be in place to prevent any problems instead of slapping grease all over your braking components that serve no purpose other than to collect excess dirt and brake dust or worse still migrate onto friction surfaces!
Thanks for sharing. It is a good idea to put some copper or silicone grase on the pads where they slide in the brackets. Also grease the pins holding the caliper . REmove the brake fluid reservior cap to lessen pressure when pushing the piston back. Its a good idea to clean the robber boots and the area behing them, before pushing them back in the housing. Hang the caliper by a bunjee cod in case it falls ans stresses the brake lines.
Bought a kia picanto as a first car 6 months ago, failed its MOT on brake and handbrake, this has saved me well over £300 quid in labour watching these, excellent videos
Glad it helped you to save money!
@@KevsShed I don't suppose you have a video of changing a sump plug, mines got a leak currently
Kev! Really great videos in this Picanto series. You are very informative, practical and obviously passionate about what you do. You have saved me hundreds with your concise video explanations 👍👏
Hi Kev. Well put together video.
However having just completed a full brake replacement and service on a 63 model and many other vehicles I would recommend as far as maintenance and longevity go that the following is undertaken.
1. The caliper mounting brackets are removed and the grooves in which the shims fit are dressed with a file. The grooves rust causing the shims to lift and restrict the lateral movement of the pads.
2. Those sliders were showing signs of seizing due to water ingress and corrosion. Again they should be removed, the rust cleaned and reassembled using silicon and rubber grease on the respective components. Its surprising how bad they get.
As you've put new pads in it will probably be a while before you go in there again. If you don't clean and maintain they will seize leading to premature and uneven pad wear particularly on the rear. Also efficiency is compromised. If neglected long enough it may well result in component replacement.
Its not until you do a thorough job that you realise how bad the brake performance has deteriorated.
Cheers
Thanks so much, thought I was right about decompressing the cylinder but glad you were there for me to check. Cheers
A Harrison glad you found the video useful 👍🏻
It doesn’t inspire me with confidence when your knocking out pads with a wood chisel !!!!!! 😂 iam pulling ya leg great little DIY video 👏🏻👍🏼
Excellent very helpful video and nicely explained. If you don't mind I have a couple of questions (sorry first time changing brake pads so sorry if silly) Firstly, on the new pads there is a removable piece of tin - are you supposed to remove this - looks like yours was left on. Secondly - don't suppose you would do a video for the rear pads as well as cannot find a video anywhere to help. I attempted one side on rear but made very hard work of it as I did not release the handbrake (so was hard getting caliper off), then I had to remove extra bolts as was not enough play on cables to remove caliper. Also, getting Caliper in was hard - not sure if it's squeeze type or wind in type on rear??? Any help appreciated, Cheers
Maxie, the little piece of tin is there to act as an anti vibration shim. It is supposed to prevent the microscopic vibrations that occur under braking which can manifest themselves as squealing. It isn't mandatory to leave them in in my opinion. As for the rear brakes, the car is not mine, it belong to the wife of a friend, however I am sure that they would like the rear brakes to be serviced at some point so I will be sure to do a video. Glad you found this video helpful, don't forget to subscribe!
@@KevsShed Cheers, I have subscribed. Thanks for confirming what the removable tin bits are, the pads that came out didn't have them which i why I assumed they have to be removed. In general do you find most rear brake calipers are the wind in type and fronts and squeeze in?
@@maxiemillie4327 Wind in style rear calipers are fitted to cars where the handbrake operates the rear calipers, I cannot remember off the top of my head if the Picanto had this style or not and as I do not have the car to hand right now, I am unable to check. One thing that I would say is that with a bit of determination, wind in types can be done with a pair of stout pliers if you are in a bind as I have done this before when I didn't have my wind in tool available. However I did have the calipers off the car and in a vice at the time! To be fair, a wind in tool can be picked up very cheaply from companies like Laser which are available in most motorfactors. Good luck!
THANK YOU AND STAY BLESSED VERY HELPFUL
@Kev's Shed Great Picanto vidoes and many thanks for posting them as helping me sort out my daughters 2008 model. Is the crossbeam where you placed the axle stands? I want to do all 4 corners on her car that has been stood still for a coupe of years so will be removing wheels to put in to get tyres changed, pads as a minimum and probably discs over a couple of days. Want to therefore raise all 4 corners and leave it raised while I look at what needs doing and then get stuck into it
Beautiful video, thank you.
Thank you so much! 👌🏻
Great video, looking forward to giving it a try
Hi. Thank you. Нужно смазать смазкой всё.
Thanks ❤
Thanks for sharing mate good job 👏
Good video thanks. You dit not lube the ends and the backs of the break pads, or is this not necessary?
Not even remotely necessary, this is a habit from by-gone years when manufacturing processes weren’t as good as they are now! If there was supposed to be grease on the back of the pads then the manufacturers would do it from the factory! I have never had a brand new vehicle with grease on the pads! Glad you liked the video though buddy 👍🏻
great Job! thanks for the video
Thanks for watching!
This was awesome !
Thanks
Good , Thanks you,
Hi Kev, great film, don't suppose you would know what the torque settings would be for the caliper bolts please
The front caliper guide rod bolts are 39 - 49 Nm and the brake caliper to steering knuckle is 83 - 93 Nm. 👍🤓
Have you made a video on how to change the front discs on a Kia picanto?
can you please do a video on how to replace the alternator?
Hi Kev... thank you for your great videos.. my lad has a Kia Picanto 2007 0.9 manual... one of the guide (slider) bolts has fallen out of his front near side caliper and we can't find the part number anywhere to get it replaced... I wonder if you can possible help please? Many thanks.. (Phil - Lancashire)
Is this what you are looking for? www.euspares.co.uk/parts/ert/9710089
i have picanto2008 from singapore. hi guyzz
Great video, thanks! Seems pretty doable.
I have a 2012 picanto, so it's the newer model. Anyone know if there are much, if any differences? Or can I just go by this video to do it?
It’ll be near identical mate 👍🏻
@@KevsShed Thank you. I'm working on it now. Got a new brake disc on one side on today, had a bit of trouble with putting in the new pads, and then it got dark. So ill finish tomorrow.
I have one more question. I don't really understand how these brakes seem to work. I understand the piston pushes the brakepads against the brakdiscs, but what causes the pads to move back again? How come they don't stay stuck against the discs?
My wife has a 2017 picanto , would it be the same routine? Once it's out of warranty I might start doing the service, never done it before 😏.
David, it will be an almost identical process, I haven't looked at the 2017 model personally but I believe that the chassis are very similar. All brake pad exchanges are pretty much the same across all makes and models with only very slight variations. You'll manage it fine!
Copper grease on lugs will help.
Regular maintenance is much more worthwhile!
whats the diff between these and disk brakes?
Um, they are disc brakes! 😁
@@KevsShed ah lol
i can see them on my cause not alloys i guess lol
Is the car jack in this car nearby the extra tire in the back or somewhere else?
I'm actually not certain mate as I never used the 'suicide' jack that comes with the car as I have a very good trolley jack.
is it safe to use a scissor jack that I usually use to change to temporary tire to do these?, I don't have another jack
You could use a scissor jack to lift the car but do not put legs etc under the car until it is fully supported on stands, do not work on a suspended vehicle supported by a jack alone!
@@KevsShed I use a scissor jack, but where about's under the car do you use the support stands without causing any damage
Thanks!!!
Hello, I don't know if you will see this but how did you know what brake pads to buy? I am replacing my brakes on my picanto and I have no idea which ones to get
If you go to your selected motor factor of choice, give them the VIN number of the car and they will be able to tell you which pads you need. This takes all of the guesswork out of it and saves you buying the wrong ones! 👌🏻😎
@@KevsShed That's class, thanks Kev
Hi Kev is this the same foe a 2012 picanto
J Williams although the 2012 was a revised model, the process will be pretty much identical. In fact, I haven’t got any drawings to hand but I would not be surprised if the calipers are the exact same. Regardless, there will be next to no difference in the process. Hope this helps 👍🏻
Dics rotor replacent please...
Thanks
Hi what front brake discs do I buy for Kai picanto 2009 model. Thanks
Unsure where you live but if you give your registration number to your local motor factors they will be able to advise you on the best option for your car. They will vary in quality with the price reflecting this 👍🏻
Where do you jack up the car front and back with a floor jack?
Under the front there is a crossbeam where the suspension arms are attached, this is a good hardpoint to jack the front and on the rear I used the axle beam between each of the rear wheels, always use axle stands after jacking though, never work under the car on a jack on it's own in case it fails. I do know of people that like to put the wheels as they remove them under the car also as a second level of contingency but I have never felt the need. hope this helps 👍
@@KevsShed Thanks! You're a star! :)
@@KevsShed Again, thank you for taking the time not only to make these videos but to type out a good lengthy response. Especially given that you don't owe us anything. Thanks for helping me out in a pinch!
@justin credible You're welcome buddy!
Toop
👀
sound like it is scraping when you moved the wheel
It wasn't scraping, that is the sound that brand new pads make on an old disc. Once bedded in they were fine. FYI this car has had 2 MOTs since this job was done, both of which its passed with flying colours!
@@KevsShed ok, so is mpg down while they bed in?
😂😂😂
@@KevsShed ha ha ha
how do those wheels even move lol
In a circular motion, that's how wheels work! 😝
@@KevsShed lol
U didn't copper grease pad plate or anything .. umm lol
I’m fully aware! The reason for that is because it is totally unnecessary! It is not called for in any factory service manual and no brand new bike or car I’ve ever bought has had copper grease on the pads! It is an archaic workaround left over from the 60s when hydraulic callipers were in their infancy and it was used to stop squeal, totally unnecessary on any more modern cars. Regular preventative maintenance should be in place to prevent any problems instead of slapping grease all over your braking components that serve no purpose other than to collect excess dirt and brake dust or worse still migrate onto friction surfaces!
How is the rear wheel brake