The cue "taper" can be quite important to the feel of the cue. Each cue maker will have their own ideas about what is the correct taper. Personally I like a cue which is not too thick over my bridge hand. I bought a cue once with a "thickish" taper and although the overall weight of the cue was perfect for me it felt a bit like a broomstick.
I'm not a cue expert but when I was getting a cue made the cue maker said his normal taper was 14.5 mm at 12". I asked for something thinner and got 14.2 mm at 12". Can't remember the exact figures off hand but have used these numbers just to explain things. As I said I don't like anything too thick over my bridge hand.
Good video Steve. The debate on cues is a mind blower at times. I’ve had cues from John Parris which was my first ever hand made cue back in 1994. More recently I had a Mike Wooldridge which was amazing. I stopped playing for a while then decided to get a cheaper cue as I don’t play much these days and it’s really nice and well finished. It’s hand made 17.5oz and has a plain ebony butt, 1pc, 9.5mm tip and had evenly spaced chevrons down the shaft. I play just as well with it as I did with more expensive cues but this was a fraction of the price. Too many people believe that buying an expensive cue will make them play better. It won’t.
Jason Bourne Hi Jason Bourne, It’s a Woods cue. Just ask for a triple AAA grade shaft with evenly spaced chevrons to the desired height, length, tip size etc and I’m positive you will get a decent cue. As I said I’m my original post I spent years thinking the more expensive the cue, the better I will play. It’s so far from the truth it’s laughable. Take a look at a John Parris Ultimate. They now have a 5 year waiting list and costs over £1,000. A friend of mine plays with a £30 banana with a cracked butt and still bangs in at least 10 tons a week. It all comes down to the correct practice and feel of the cue, not who made it and how much it cost. I hope this helps
Would you say the Mike wooldridge cue was the one that played the best? The guy really seems to know his stuff whenever I watch his videos. Seems like a connoisseur of cue making and id love to own one at some point
dnbmania if you want to spend upwards of £600 on a cue then my choice would be a Mike Wooldridge cue. I have never had a cue feel as good as mine. The finish was amazing and Mike is a decent guy. As long as you get the cue to your exacting standards then I’m 100% positive you will have the best cue in the world. Mine certainly was. I’ve seen many cues by the top cue makers around and my MW was far superior to any of them. I’ve seen cues that cost £1200 and had a misaligned badge. It had to be sent to the maker to be redone. He’s already waited 4 years for it. 😂 I know it can be hard but if your able to go to a shop and try different cues for weight and length it will be much better than buying an expensive cue that you just can’t adjust to. Where are you from? One of the best things to do is find a good snooker coach and talk to him about cue lengths etc that suit you. Once a good coach has your stance correct it will be easy to determine what length cue will suit you best. I’m 6.1ft and use a 58” so you definitely do not want to be any bigger than that. Anything else I can help with give me a shout. 👍🏻
Great advice on cues , i have a cue i took a gamble on for £60 and make breaks of over 50s and one 101 break and i think changing for another cue may not give me the same feel and improve my game , my nephew has just spent his money on a hand made cue of £300, i fear hes wasted his money on that cue because hes bought many cues cheaper and struggles with his game and his nerves get the better of him, i think keeping your faith in one cue will reward you in the end like it has for me, i have kept the same cue for two years now, i found changing my tip to the ELK MASTER Pro tip for £7 has improved my potting and breaks before i used blue diamond tips!
I agree Michael. Having faith in the cue and being comfortable with it is the key thing. We don't need an expensive cue to play well. The Elk Master Pro tips are great. That is what I use. I'm sure your nephew would get his money back on the cue anyway. Doesn't hurt to have a well made cue. I'm sure he'll settle and start to enjoy it 🙂
@@BartonSnooker Yes i hope your right, just that my nephew has bought cues before and even used different tips and chalks , i even trained him of how to pot and given him tips of how to sight the ball and doing unwanted sides, maybe time will tell and hope he will settle on the cue like i have, got my moneys worth 10 times over than from my old cue which was a Y Riley!
Thanks again StevO. We have some great Australian hardwoods out here including mountain ash with pronounced grain also very heavy Red Iron bark for the butt..I am considering having a go at making my own..Total weight is a consideration I cant get my head around just yet..
The only thing I find whacky about recommendations for cues is the assertion that a cue should be "about shoulder height". I actually agree with this - I'm 6'2" and found a 61" cue that I love - personally, I find it much nicer than using a typical 58" cue. BUT probably at least 95% of cues made and sold are 57-59" long and most are 57 or 58 so the makers of cues don't pay any attention to this recommendation and if you are a tall player then getting a longer cue is quite a challenge as there are very few to choose from. You may need to special order one or be lucky enough to get one from the few places that seem to stock them. It would be GREAT if there were more longer cues available to choose from.
Steve. I've just bought a really nice BCE Ronnie O Sullivan cue, playing well , but have noticed a very slight curve at the tip end, maybe the last 4/5 inches, What is the best way to straighten it at home? Steam ? Thanks for your vids, very informative and useful
thanks again for great advice, especially as i'm in the market for a new cue as mine has warped. we can all drool at the fantastic splicing with exotic timbers but at the end of the day we just need a straight cue to pot a few balls. i quite fancied making my own.
Hi Steve, thank you for another excellent video, your tip and all the pros tips are so universally dome shaped , what tools do you recommend most for shaping a tip, I use a cuetec bowtie tool but never seem to get it as perfectly uniformed as you guys once it's been bedded in. Always have to use fine sandpaper to get somewhere close as yours is, but I seem to take more of the tip than should be necessary really. Many thanks
Hi! I just use sand paper to dome it like that. No special tools. Glue it on, cut down the excess on the side with a blade, then use some sand paper to shape it. I will try and do a follow up video showing what I do!
I've been playing with a 25 ounce pocket buster for the last 20 years. It's a 2 pce and forward weighted, a real one off. Anyone else who tried it struggled but it suits me and with close to 400 centuries in the bank it can't be bad.
Yes that's a bit of an unusual weight. Most cues wouldn't be that heavy. I take it these centuries are the ones you have in practice sessions playing on your own, the ones on your channel. Or have you had close to 400 centuries playing opponents? Either way you're a great player. Your potting seems very solid.
@@BartonSnooker Yeah I had it customised 20 years ago and maybe over did the weight but all other cues now feel so light. l would think I probably only made around 30 tons in competitive matches but they were always short format so never easy to hit them. Thinking of trying a softer tip as I've heard it can lessen deflection, the number one killer for me.
Hi, as most people don't know the differences between tips and only get to test them when their current tip is worn could you do a video on the characteristics of different tops please? For example some may offer a lot of grip but also are softer, some are rock hard which give consistent reaction but don't grip as well. I used to use all master because that's all I had and knew at the time. Then moved to blue diamond again because it's all I knew. Now on Brunswick tips. My latest is that I used a tip compression tool before attaching the tip. This produced a very compact and hard feeling and I love it. So my question so what characteristics are out there e.g. I hear century tips come in various hardness. Would be good for you to just set the record on what's available so people are well informed. P.s. at 3:33 it looked like your ferrul has a split!?
Steve, I think it was reflection of light on the polished brass. When you strike with your cue, like i said some other time, it is solid and rich and if any imperfection in the ferul existed it would be otherwise; yes?
didn't notice a joint - I was wondering if you might discuss various configurations - 1/2 vs 3/4 vs one piece snooker cues. I recently purchased a Woods cue - amazing quality ash shaft w/hard case and small and adjustable extensions. Wasn't sure if I would like it or not but there are no resources here in central USA where I could try out different cues - there are only 2 10ft snooker tables in the greater Kansas City area! So I had to take the proverbial "shot in the dark" and ordered my Woods cue about 3 weeks ago. I am very pleased with my purchase. Although now I am experimenting with tips. I bought some soft Elkmaster tips. After I play w/the Elkmaster tip for a few weeks I'll know for sure if I am going to stick with that brand or continue experimenting with other tips.
I am just starting with snooker, and some guy where I always snooker says he has a really really good cue for sale for 70 but I have no idea what I like, should I just take the gamble and buy it?
I'm only 5' 5" tall. I've ordered a custom cue that measures 56" (28" shaft/28" butt). I hope I like it because I've always played with a 58" standard size cue. I've always felt like 58" was too long for me. Any thoughts? I play American pool at a medium speed compared to most.......Thanks!
This is a really excellent video with quality information. How does the hit of maple differ from ash? So far I have only hit with pool cues with a maple shaft. Thank you.
Is there such a thing as a sneaky pete style snooker cue? I have this style of pool cue, understated styling at the butt end but top level shaft. I dont want to flashy outside but I want a hand made top quality cue. im going to visit OMin cues in Bangkok to see.
Its strange after you have a bit of money we tend to look for cue advise on the best cue. My first cue was a cheap bar cue and then a cheap 2 piece cue. The wood was not recognised 😂 but it served me well after growing up thou things started to change.
I like my cue made of Ebony 23oz, 9.25mm tip and 54 inches and balance point is 1/3 from the butt, tip doesn’t have any popular brand and butt has 25mm in diameter and 3 joints to make it all in 1 cue stick I can use it as normal cue, Masse cue, and jump shot cue just have to put a grip joint after taking off the original joints to make those types of cue sticks. Mechanical made. And it costs US$ 450 without a tip and without a case to carry. But it only cost less than US$ 200 to make but you have to pay for the guy who made it so yeah (450) but remember each cue has it own different feel so you have to practice with it for a week to know how it works. And a good cue stick only make easier to adjust the aim but if you know how to adjust with BHE and FHE then you don’t need a expensive cue my first cue only cost $15 and it works fine, the grip is hard rubber though. A good cue stick decreases the amount of BHE and FHE needed to adjust the deflection of your shot. If you are beginner just by a cue which has joints and extensions that’s the only thing you need if you don’t know how to adjust the aim and also only using center shots and forward and backward spins only with no English (left or right) then you don’t need a intermediate or professionally cues just play with beginner or standard $5-25 cues now save money win more games by attending more classes with the money you gonna use on cue sticks pay that money to your pool 🎱 teacher and he will teach you how to be a better player than the expensive cue does! OK? Unfortunately our country don’t have no teachers that teach pool 🎱 we have to learn by ourselves by playing racks! That way of learning took me a whole month to become a intermediate player! By the way the Title says cue tips! While he saying more than cue tips he also says about tips, length, weight, diameter, balanced etc. Then why only cue tips? He should change the title! 😝
Hi Steve, what are your thoughts on the differences between a 3/4 and a 1 piece? I’ve always had a 3/4, but I’m told you get better feedback with a 1 piece. I’d consider making the switch but last time I tried a new cue it felt completely alien to me, and I didn’t really understand how much I like my current one! But would consider it again if it helps improve my game.
I have been having the same thoughts recently but having spoken to a respected cue maker in my area about the pros and cons of a 3/4 and a 1 piece I’ll be sticking to my 3/4 apparently they make 3/4 cue these days just as good as a 1pc
Hi. No real advantage to using a one piece cue. The main reason thing with one piece cues is they have no been modified at all. They are one complete piece of wood with the ebony glued on. Obviously a 3/4 cue has been cut at the back, had a joint fitted and is then screwed back together. Although this really doesn't matter. It was said that you get slightly better feel from a one piece cue, but in reality it's just a "different" feel, not necessarily better.
My bar league plays 8 ball like other leagues I like a 19oz and a small tip size so I bought a snooker cue to play with I’ll probably be the only full blooded American using one
Brittania cues. I paid £70 for mine and it's perfect. If you're wondering what cue it is, it's the 3/4 champion meteor cue by brittania cues. Hope this helped ✌🏻
Thanks about your useful video. A big question when we want buy a cue is about one pice cue or 2 pice. It has joint in midle or in 1/3. Some one said 1 pice is better. Its a big question.
Hi Steve, what's the differences characteristics between soft, medium and hard tip? Which density plays better? I heard someone said, go for hard tip because you can play a shot with ease(less power)? Is it true? Thanks
Steve does a flatter tip help with centre ball striking? a friend suggested it may help stop putting unwanted side on shots..or would you say unwanted side is a technique issue? and not the tip. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
@@BartonSnooker i dont want to invest very much because its my first cue and i dont know if i will even start to play actively. Also im 15 so i dont have that much money so im thinking of 50€
@@ejss ok thank you. Any cue will be fine for your first cue. Just pick something you like and use that. I would go for Powerglide over a Riley though.
Hey everyone! May I got an advice - are the O'MIN cues or some other common brands like it... Are those cues playable? Or it's kinda bullshit stuff?😀 And one the very important question - If I need an own customised made cue, where I can apply to make it with delivery in EU? Thanks a lot!
When you are sitting around a parlor isn't it uncomfortable to hang a 57 inch stick around your back? Also, can you use a pool cue to play snoooker? Also, do they make 2 piece snoooker cues?
Interesting, as I am only 5'6"ish I should have a cue which is a bit shorter than average, maybe 56". However, having done a thorough review of cues for sale I cannot find any cues less than 57" and I cannot afford a made to measure cue. Your thoughts please Steve? Cheers.
About the cue lenght, should it really reach your shoulder? I mean, Mark Williams is roughly 190 cm tall but he (as majority of the players) uses a 147 cm cue. Im asking that because its really hard to find snooker cues in my country (Brazil), i have had some trouble finding a good one with 151 cm (my shoulder's height). Should I try adapting myself to 145 - 147 cm?
Hi Steve where can I get a longer cue as I’m 6 ft 2” and the standard cue length seems to be 57” my ideal length would be 59” but there seems to be no cues of this length out there thanks for all the great videos I’ve learnt a lot from them keep up the good work
I play a lot of pool at the moment because I work in a bar that has a game lounge with decent pool tables. I dont have access to a snooker table but hope to play snooker in the future as I have played snooker in the past. I want to buy a snooker cue because I dont want to get too used to playing with pool cues with huge tips. Is it a bad idea to use a snooker cue if you are just playing pool?
But what is more popular amongst the pros -- ash or maple? I'll wager that one material is significantly more preferred. And does one material maintain its "straightness" better over the years versus the other?
Hi Steve. I opted for a peradon cue as it was the longest the shop did at around 58” but I’m 6,4 and it is just above my chest. Would I need a Taylor made cue for my size ? But don’t want to pay a fortune as I’m no Ronnie type player
In my experience, all the people I know that are tall and very good players, all use standard length cues of 58". You could possibly have a cue that is a bit longer, but the longer you go I think you run the risk of losing some of the feel and characteristics of the wood. For someone like yourself, I think it just means you end up having a more compact action, and there's nothing wrong with that. My cue is 57.5" and I don't hold it right at the back anyway, I've got a good inch and a half left at the butt end. As long as you've got a bridge length of around 9.5" (from the V of the bridge hand to the tip at the cue ball), then you should be absolutely fine.
Thanks very much for the reply that’s great advice. I have adapted to the cue so now with that piece of mind hopefully play with more confidence. Keep up the good work 😎👍🏻
Hi Steve, is curvature of the tip important? Mine is similar to yours, but some like it flatter and some like it more curved, would the latter cause some cueing problems? Thanks Robert
My cues only 56.5 long and im 6ft. Plus I don't hold the cue on the flat. I hold it so my arms vertical.also. my tip size is 9.1mm and is 18oz in weight with a 30' b/diameter! Ive heard a few pros like higgins and ding use a cue shorter than 57 but not sure if thats true.
Agree. Cue brand and specs just for advise. But cue is cue. It need to be pick up by hands, play some shots and feel it. Then will find what is real need for you.
I’ve never seen ash grain so delicate. Lovely piece of craftsmanship you have man what cue is that? I myself have an amazing Maximus legend cue I feel like they could’ve graded it as an ultimate and it plays like a dream the feedback is the best I’ve ever felt
Hi! Thanks! My cue was made by a local cue maker to me (Dean Jones). He used to work for Powerglide and now works for himself. Maximus are lovely cues. I know some of the pros use those now. The ones I've seen really do look good.
@@BartonSnooker I recently just had my cue from Dean and he sorted me a deal on my Peradon one piece case when I picked up my cue. If you're local to the West Midlands it's worth popping over to Mucklows Hill way and to Dean's shop. He's a top bloke and master craftsman with a great table in his workshop as well, check his page out on Facebook
Hi Steve thanks for the video-I’m having a cue custom built by peradon at the moment, with a smaller tip (9.25 mm) and with a century titanium ferrule fitted to minimise deflection and throw. What are your opinions on the new titanium ferrules? Also out of curiosity: what brand is your cue?
Hi Matt, The titanium ferrules don't do much in my experience. I have used many cues with titanium ferrules and the throw is not significantly changed. Just seems the same as any other cue to me. They will last longer though of course, so that's a bonus. My cue is a 'Dean Jones'. He's local to me and makes custom hand made cues.
Hi coach I request you to make video on use of different pressure grip. I feel it actually. Or the pressure on grip is always same irrespective of type of shot, stun, stun run through, follow through, soft screw , deep screw, drag. Please let me know.
Hello. My advice is, within reason, you are trying to keep the grip the same pressure on all shots. Squeezing the cue to tight during the delivery is a cause of a lot of problems for a lot of players. So trying to keep the grip relaxed is very important. Hope that helps 🙂
@@BartonSnooker Thank you very much. Actually confusion between what is right to do and what not to do also cause gripping the cue in wrong way specially in pressure situation, and it is because of lack of formal coaching. Thanks for expert advice. My own observation about game has been my coach. You add something which mean much to me.
I do not know, but I think not. Pool players from the Philippines are very short, and they play with 58 inch cues just fine. That is pool though, so I am not sure about Snooker.
Steve, why are pool cues so different to Snooker? I have a 7x4 ft table with both sets of balls. Would never dream of using one of those awful pool cues with the massive tip. What’s the difference/benefit of a pool cue?
@@BartonSnooker ahh right that's dissapointing then. I thought it was some sort of sacred tip that only members of the secret snooker society are allowed to use.
When playing a lot is it practical to rotate the cue every number of shots as opposed to always holding the cue naturally in only one position? ( Flat side of butt down). Does doing this evens out any wear on cue and tip? Or just a non issue? Cheers, Michael
Hi Steve. Interesting video. Is there any reason why there is a flat on the cue butt, is it something to do with cue balance?. should I hold the cue with the flat in any particular position, regards Alan.
No real reason other than tradition. Cue makers made that little flat part to put their badge on. These days cues are all made with the arrows (the pointy grain in the wood) pointing along the top of the cue when the flat is facing the ceiling. So most players have the flat part pointing up!
BartonSnooker thanks for your quick response Coach. And would you please tell me if it is possible to order this cue? And if yes how long does it take to make this cue?
Hi Steve, I am looking at changing from my current tip to trying something else as I think I need more consistency in the tip. Regardless of the make of tip all of them come in different hardness ratings (soft to granite hard). Is there a general characteristic when choosing particular hardness? For example I hear the harder tips can throw the cue ball more when applying side but they are more consistent. Soft tips grip a lot, don't throw as much but can be a bit more inconsistent in feedback. I would like to avoid having to accounts for a lot of throw as I find this makes the long pots with side much harder. Am I characterising this correctly? Any other tips 😉 about the bahviour of different hardness in tips please?
I've not found any tips that feel any better than a Medium Elk Master Pro - I keep going back to them. For snooker I use a 10mm and very fractionally shave it down. For English pool I use the 9mm. Too soft just means it'll wear out faster and I've personally never cared for very hard tips as they give little feel and less grip, although Elk Master Pros seem to be a little softer in general, even the hard ones. I've tried a lot of tips but never any of these new really expensive layered things as they just seem like a ripoff to me. I'm sure many of them play well but I doubt they'd play any better, for me at least, than the EMP mediums.
It's a throwback to the date of the nsce which had a flat for shovelling the balls along. The stick part of the mace rested over the shoulder. The flat recognises that old tradition. I have the Cues n Views channel and collect old cues.
I'm 6'4 and am struggling to find a longer cue (61" ish) - so as an interim I've screwed in a 6" ext to my 58" cue. Is this workable or best for just the occasional shot?
İf you're asking about snooker cue, then you can call Cuecraft and ask if they can make you a longer cue. On the other Side you should check your grip cause İ think standard 145cm cue should be good for your size as well. İ had a problem with my grip and fixed it with a mirror.
I ordered a cue online and it came today. It looked amazing but the tip looked riduculasly small. I was able to play standard long straight shots on my pool table but i compared the tip to a cue i had already with a 10mm tip and it looked almost twice the size as the new one. The new cue was supposed to 9.7mm but i measured it and it was barely nine. Two questions Was i measuring it right? Does it make a difference?
You need to measure the diameter of the top of the ferrule. So just underneath the tip. It might just be the tip was taken down too much. See what size the ferrule is and you might find it is 9.7mm.
@@BartonSnooker hi Steve I've actually found out that I need a small ferule/tip and I've gone right down to 8.5. I really struggled for ages with a thicker tip even 9mm so I tried it and I can really see the line of aim so much better now. I know I have to concentrate on center ball striking more but it's been great tbh. What's your thoughts?
Thank you so much for probably the most comprehensive video on cues. I have a quick question if you can help, please. Can you tell us how to fix the slightly misaligned chevrons with respect to the flat part of the butt end? Mine are slightly off. A video would be perfect, but even a reply that helps me would be great! Thank you!
Hi! You would need to take your cue to a cue maker. I assume you are using a 3/4 cue, and when you screw the cue together it is not quite right. This would be something that a cue maker may be able to put right for you. It will need the joint adjusting, so it will need an expert! Hope that helps 🙂
Wow. I was really expecting / hoping for a description of the behavioral differences between the extremes of the range of normal cue variables. Something like "a light cue imparts more spin with less effort" or "a more narrow tip allows you to get closer to the table on a draw shot, thus imparting more English". Saying "it's all up to personal preference" is almost useless (to me, anyway.) Even when you talked about more/less 'whippy', you mention that 'affects how the white ball reacts" but don't explain what more whippy does to the white ball vs less whippy. You could have added a LOT more value (for me, anyway,) without many more words or time. But thanks for the effort! P.S. This is mostly because I don't have a billiard store nearby and need to mail-order cues, so don't have an opportunity to 'try-before-you-buy' and get to know what feels better. My recollection is I used to shoot with a 15oz and it was quite 'whippy' and seemed easy to spin the white ball. That is my inclination, but was looking for some insight that I may have missed or not realized, since I usually eschew heavier cues... Thanks again.
I think that was my general intention for this video. People put so much emphasis on: what tip they use, how heavy the cue is, how whippy the cue is, what wood is used, where the balance point is etc. Truth be told, all of those things change the way the white behaves, but all those things are SO TINY in comparison to the player actually improving, that unless you're making 130+ breaks constantly, and you need something that just absolutely suits your own fine touch and feel, it's really not worth worrying about. Whatever you use, you'll get used to it, and as I say, you'll find things that YOU like the feel of. But talking about a cue being whippy and therefore not giving as much cue ball deflection when playing with side... well the problem is, change the tip and that will alter again slightly, the ferrule will alter it, adding or removing weight will alter it etc etc. So the point of the video was really "get something you like the feel of, and don't overanalyse it. Because there are so many factors at play, that until you're continuously making hundred breaks, don't worry about it". Hope that makes sense, and thanks a lot for watching 👍🙂
What kind of cue do you use Steve? I really like the piece of brass in the butt end of your cue. I have a peradon cantebury and it has a unique splicing at the but end it is strarting to crack on the one of the splices. I feel in the future when I decide to upgrade a cue like that could be alittle more beneficial to me seeing as I have a bad habit of putting the butt on the floor as I chalk my tip.
Thanks for this, I was always concerned that my cue balance was off as I had it adjusted years ago, but when I pick up another cue I can't play with it. It's a Tony Glover cue which I had made years ago, love it. Also I love Blue diamond tips. Can I have a joint added on the bottom? I don't have one at the moment
Watching this video all comes down to personal preference
😂😂 I was about to write the same
Can someone count the personal preferences??
🤣🤣🤣
@@eljonno69 all
😂
The cue "taper" can be quite important to the feel of the cue. Each cue maker will have their own ideas about what is the correct taper. Personally I like a cue which is not too thick over my bridge hand. I bought a cue once with a "thickish" taper and although the overall weight of the cue was perfect for me it felt a bit like a broomstick.
I'm not a cue expert but when I was getting a cue made the cue maker said his normal taper was 14.5 mm at 12". I asked for something thinner and got 14.2 mm at 12". Can't remember the exact figures off hand but have used these numbers just to explain things. As I said I don't like anything too thick over my bridge hand.
Yes, the taper is very important to ur bridge hand, the diameter near the bridge hand. It enhances ur ability to grip or slide.
Good video Steve. The debate on cues is a mind blower at times.
I’ve had cues from John Parris which was my first ever hand made cue back in 1994. More recently I had a Mike Wooldridge which was amazing. I stopped playing for a while then decided to get a cheaper cue as I don’t play much these days and it’s really nice and well finished. It’s hand made 17.5oz and has a plain ebony butt, 1pc, 9.5mm tip and had evenly spaced chevrons down the shaft. I play just as well with it as I did with more expensive cues but this was a fraction of the price. Too many people believe that buying an expensive cue will make them play better. It won’t.
I fully agree! As long as you have something decent, a cue will never really help improve a players game.
Hey Preston Guru , could you possibly link where you got the cue from?
Jason Bourne Hi Jason Bourne,
It’s a Woods cue. Just ask for a triple AAA grade shaft with evenly spaced chevrons to the desired height, length, tip size etc and I’m positive you will get a decent cue.
As I said I’m my original post I spent years thinking the more expensive the cue, the better I will play. It’s so far from the truth it’s laughable. Take a look at a John Parris Ultimate. They now have a 5 year waiting list and costs over £1,000. A friend of mine plays with a £30 banana with a cracked butt and still bangs in at least 10 tons a week.
It all comes down to the correct practice and feel of the cue, not who made it and how much it cost.
I hope this helps
Would you say the Mike wooldridge cue was the one that played the best? The guy really seems to know his stuff whenever I watch his videos. Seems like a connoisseur of cue making and id love to own one at some point
dnbmania if you want to spend upwards of £600 on a cue then my choice would be a Mike Wooldridge cue. I have never had a cue feel as good as mine. The finish was amazing and Mike is a decent guy. As long as you get the cue to your exacting standards then I’m 100% positive you will have the best cue in the world. Mine certainly was. I’ve seen many cues by the top cue makers around and my MW was far superior to any of them. I’ve seen cues that cost £1200 and had a misaligned badge. It had to be sent to the maker to be redone. He’s already waited 4 years for it. 😂
I know it can be hard but if your able to go to a shop and try different cues for weight and length it will be much better than buying an expensive cue that you just can’t adjust to.
Where are you from? One of the best things to do is find a good snooker coach and talk to him about cue lengths etc that suit you. Once a good coach has your stance correct it will be easy to determine what length cue will suit you best. I’m 6.1ft and use a 58” so you definitely do not want to be any bigger than that.
Anything else I can help with give me a shout. 👍🏻
The first 20 seconds sums up the message we get from this video.
@@omerqadeer1028 haha 😅
At long last someone that speaks sense... fabulous video and well presented 👍
Trying to figure out what cue is best for me. Am I right in thinking it’s down to my personal preference? 🤔🙏🏼❤️💫
You got it 👍
Finally a video about your cue Steve. Thank you. You’ve nice cue indeed. Lovely
Thankyou, I look forward to your next video.
Tip rounded or flat make a difference
Thank you so much so many other videos were not helpful at all.
Thank you for all of these. Are you going to have a video about some self- practise for beginner and other levels?
Great advice on cues , i have a cue i took a gamble on for £60 and make breaks of over 50s and one 101 break and i think changing for another cue may not give me the same feel and improve my game , my nephew has just spent his money on a hand made cue of £300, i fear hes wasted his money on that cue because hes bought many cues cheaper and struggles with his game and his nerves get the better of him, i think keeping your faith in one cue will reward you in the end like it has for me, i have kept the same cue for two years now, i found changing my tip to the ELK MASTER Pro tip for £7 has improved my potting and breaks before i used blue diamond tips!
I agree Michael. Having faith in the cue and being comfortable with it is the key thing. We don't need an expensive cue to play well. The Elk Master Pro tips are great. That is what I use.
I'm sure your nephew would get his money back on the cue anyway. Doesn't hurt to have a well made cue. I'm sure he'll settle and start to enjoy it 🙂
@@BartonSnooker Yes i hope your right, just that my nephew has bought cues before and even used different tips and chalks , i even trained him of how to pot and given him tips of how to sight the ball and doing unwanted sides, maybe time will tell and hope he will settle on the cue like i have, got my moneys worth 10 times over than from my old cue which was a Y Riley!
Thanks again StevO.
We have some great Australian hardwoods out here including mountain ash with pronounced grain also very heavy Red Iron bark for the butt..I am considering having a go at making my own..Total weight is a consideration I cant get my head around just yet..
How'd you get on?
@@arama0010 the bullshit cov aids got in the way
The only thing I find whacky about recommendations for cues is the assertion that a cue should be "about shoulder height". I actually agree with this - I'm 6'2" and found a 61" cue that I love - personally, I find it much nicer than using a typical 58" cue. BUT probably at least 95% of cues made and sold are 57-59" long and most are 57 or 58 so the makers of cues don't pay any attention to this recommendation and if you are a tall player then getting a longer cue is quite a challenge as there are very few to choose from. You may need to special order one or be lucky enough to get one from the few places that seem to stock them. It would be GREAT if there were more longer cues available to choose from.
I think it might be down to personal preference
Steve. I've just bought a really nice BCE Ronnie O Sullivan cue, playing well , but have noticed a very slight curve at the tip end, maybe the last 4/5 inches, What is the best way to straighten it at home? Steam ? Thanks for your vids, very informative and useful
thanks again for great advice, especially as i'm in the market for a new cue as mine has warped. we can all drool at the fantastic splicing with exotic timbers but at the end of the day we just need a straight cue to pot a few balls. i quite fancied making my own.
Brother I need one cue can u help me 🙏
Great video Steve! I think Stephen Hendry played with a cue that he bought from a charity shop years ago😊😊 7 times world champion, not bad going! Ian
His dad bought him the cue from his club. It was a Powerglide Connoiseur single piece maple.
Great video very informative, look forward to more videos from you
I SAW LOTS OF VIDEOS FOR DIFFERENT PEOPLES BUT I LIKE THE WAY YOU TEACH AND EXPLAIN I LEARNED A LOT, YOU THE NO1 IN COUCHING I BET,
Hi Steve, thank you for another excellent video, your tip and all the pros tips are so universally dome shaped , what tools do you recommend most for shaping a tip, I use a cuetec bowtie tool but never seem to get it as perfectly uniformed as you guys once it's been bedded in. Always have to use fine sandpaper to get somewhere close as yours is, but I seem to take more of the tip than should be necessary really. Many thanks
Hi! I just use sand paper to dome it like that. No special tools. Glue it on, cut down the excess on the side with a blade, then use some sand paper to shape it.
I will try and do a follow up video showing what I do!
@@BartonSnooker that would be great, cheers Steve, look forward to the video
I've been playing with a 25 ounce pocket buster for the last 20 years. It's a 2 pce and forward weighted, a real one off. Anyone else who tried it struggled but it suits me and with close to 400 centuries in the bank it can't be bad.
Yes that's a bit of an unusual weight. Most cues wouldn't be that heavy.
I take it these centuries are the ones you have in practice sessions playing on your own, the ones on your channel. Or have you had close to 400 centuries playing opponents?
Either way you're a great player. Your potting seems very solid.
@@BartonSnooker Yeah I had it customised 20 years ago and maybe over did the weight but all other cues now feel so light. l would think I probably only made around 30 tons in competitive matches but they were always short format so never easy to hit them. Thinking of trying a softer tip as I've heard it can lessen deflection, the number one killer for me.
Pocket buster 😂😂😂😂😂😂
I recommend you woods cues
Hi, as most people don't know the differences between tips and only get to test them when their current tip is worn could you do a video on the characteristics of different tops please?
For example some may offer a lot of grip but also are softer, some are rock hard which give consistent reaction but don't grip as well. I used to use all master because that's all I had and knew at the time. Then moved to blue diamond again because it's all I knew. Now on Brunswick tips. My latest is that I used a tip compression tool before attaching the tip. This produced a very compact and hard feeling and I love it. So my question so what characteristics are out there e.g. I hear century tips come in various hardness. Would be good for you to just set the record on what's available so people are well informed.
P.s. at 3:33 it looked like your ferrul has a split!?
Steve, I think it was reflection of light on the polished brass. When you strike with your cue, like i said some other time, it is solid and rich and if any imperfection in the ferul existed it would be otherwise; yes?
didn't notice a joint - I was wondering if you might discuss various configurations - 1/2 vs 3/4 vs one piece snooker cues.
I recently purchased a Woods cue - amazing quality ash shaft w/hard case and small and adjustable extensions. Wasn't sure if I would like it or not but there are no resources here in central USA where I could try out different cues - there are only 2 10ft snooker tables in the greater Kansas City area! So I had to take the proverbial "shot in the dark" and ordered my Woods cue about 3 weeks ago.
I am very pleased with my purchase. Although now I am experimenting with tips. I bought some soft Elkmaster tips. After I play w/the Elkmaster tip for a few weeks I'll know for sure if I am going to stick with that brand or continue experimenting with other tips.
I am just starting with snooker, and some guy where I always snooker says he has a really really good cue for sale for 70 but I have no idea what I like, should I just take the gamble and buy it?
I'm only 5' 5" tall. I've ordered a custom cue that measures 56" (28" shaft/28" butt). I hope I like it because I've always played with a 58" standard size cue. I've always felt like 58" was too long for me. Any thoughts? I play American pool at a medium speed compared to most.......Thanks!
Thank you sir
Loving the coaching and videos. What’s your opinion on brass v titanium ferrules?
Love your videos pal helped me out a lot cheers
Thanks David!
This is a really excellent video with quality information. How does the hit of maple differ from ash? So far I have only hit with pool cues with a maple shaft. Thank you.
I believe that Ash would provide a much stiffer hit then Maple.
Nice Video......very helpful !!
Great video.. Do you have any suggestions on which make of cue is decent and price range pls? Thanks
Brilliant!
Thanks for all information. I have bought the que which has 11mm of tip.. do i need to trim it down or have a go with it.. what u suggest?
Thanks
hi Steve. Thanks for the video. Can u pls let us know about Ronnie's cue specs pls?
Is there such a thing as a sneaky pete style snooker cue? I have this style of pool cue, understated styling at the butt end but top level shaft. I dont want to flashy outside but I want a hand made top quality cue. im going to visit OMin cues in Bangkok to see.
Its strange after you have a bit of money we tend to look for cue advise on the best cue. My first cue was a cheap bar cue and then a cheap 2 piece cue. The wood was not recognised 😂 but it served me well after growing up thou things started to change.
So the best is the one you prefer? Thanks for that.
I like my cue made of Ebony 23oz, 9.25mm tip and 54 inches and balance point is 1/3 from the butt, tip doesn’t have any popular brand and butt has 25mm in diameter and 3 joints to make it all in 1 cue stick I can use it as normal cue, Masse cue, and jump shot cue just have to put a grip joint after taking off the original joints to make those types of cue sticks. Mechanical made. And it costs US$ 450 without a tip and without a case to carry. But it only cost less than US$ 200 to make but you have to pay for the guy who made it so yeah (450) but remember each cue has it own different feel so you have to practice with it for a week to know how it works. And a good cue stick only make easier to adjust the aim but if you know how to adjust with BHE and FHE then you don’t need a expensive cue my first cue only cost $15 and it works fine, the grip is hard rubber though. A good cue stick decreases the amount of BHE and FHE needed to adjust the deflection of your shot. If you are beginner just by a cue which has joints and extensions that’s the only thing you need if you don’t know how to adjust the aim and also only using center shots and forward and backward spins only with no English (left or right) then you don’t need a intermediate or professionally cues just play with beginner or standard $5-25 cues now save money win more games by attending more classes with the money you gonna use on cue sticks pay that money to your pool 🎱 teacher and he will teach you how to be a better player than the expensive cue does! OK? Unfortunately our country don’t have no teachers that teach pool 🎱 we have to learn by ourselves by playing racks! That way of learning took me a whole month to become a intermediate player! By the way the Title says cue tips! While he saying more than cue tips he also says about tips, length, weight, diameter, balanced etc. Then why only cue tips? He should change the title! 😝
Thanks for the video ! Where would you recommend buy snooker cue’s?
Hi Steve, what are your thoughts on the differences between a 3/4 and a 1 piece? I’ve always had a 3/4, but I’m told you get better feedback with a 1 piece. I’d consider making the switch but last time I tried a new cue it felt completely alien to me, and I didn’t really understand how much I like my current one! But would consider it again if it helps improve my game.
I had that question exactly..
I have been having the same thoughts recently but having spoken to a respected cue maker in my area about the pros and cons of a 3/4 and a 1 piece I’ll be sticking to my 3/4 apparently they make 3/4 cue these days just as good as a 1pc
Hi. No real advantage to using a one piece cue.
The main reason thing with one piece cues is they have no been modified at all. They are one complete piece of wood with the ebony glued on.
Obviously a 3/4 cue has been cut at the back, had a joint fitted and is then screwed back together. Although this really doesn't matter.
It was said that you get slightly better feel from a one piece cue, but in reality it's just a "different" feel, not necessarily better.
BartonSnooker Thankyou for the response, enjoy watching your videos, keep up the good work!
@@alexrichards6632 thanks Alex!
Sounds like what you’re saying is nothing matters, it’s all down to personal preference?
Very useful message sir🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳
My bar league plays 8 ball like other leagues I like a 19oz and a small tip size so I bought a snooker cue to play with I’ll probably be the only full blooded American using one
Hi Steve...
I could not improve on my back screwing the cue ball....can you please make a short video on it
what cue brand do u recommend?
Brittania cues. I paid £70 for mine and it's perfect.
If you're wondering what cue it is, it's the 3/4 champion meteor cue by brittania cues. Hope this helped ✌🏻
Peradon cues are great (or Parris cues if you have a bigger budget)
Cuesoul 3/4 hand made professional snooker cue is an absolutely brilliant cue and plays like a dream especially
If you are on a tight budget.
Unfortunately its close to impossible to try out snooker cues in Canada. Very few for sale, its all 8 & 9 ball here.
He has a classic cue in 8bp
Thanks about your useful video. A big question when we want buy a cue is about one pice cue or 2 pice. It has joint in midle or in 1/3. Some one said 1 pice is better. Its a big question.
It's just a matter of self preference.
2 price cue is easy to carry.
But does the 2-piece run design a risk of being (or becoming) less consistent due to the joint?
Hi!, do you use Elkmaster. I really like your tip. I recently got a tip on and it is too small. Doesn't work me. Gonna change it soon Insha Allah.
Hi Steve, what's the differences characteristics between soft, medium and hard tip? Which density plays better? I heard someone said, go for hard tip because you can play a shot with ease(less power)? Is it true? Thanks
8.2 mm blue diamond on my cue
Wow that's small but I get you totally. I'm using 8.5 mm and can see the shot line beautifully 👌
Can you show how to change the tip on your cue please
WHAT MAKE OF GLUE DO YOU USE TO ATTACH YOUR TIP ON WITH,PLEASE?
Pritt Stick
Steve does a flatter tip help with centre ball striking? a friend suggested it may help stop putting unwanted side on shots..or would you say unwanted side is a technique issue? and not the tip. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
I'm only playing a few weeks and I'm putting unwanted side on alot.. its so frustrating..
For me the most important thing is the stiffness of the shaft. Do stiffer shafts deflect less than whippy shafts?
should i buy a powerglide or a riley cue?
What is your budget?
@@BartonSnooker i dont want to invest very much because its my first cue and i dont know if i will even start to play actively. Also im 15 so i dont have that much money so im thinking of 50€
@@ejss ok thank you. Any cue will be fine for your first cue. Just pick something you like and use that. I would go for Powerglide over a Riley though.
@@BartonSnooker thank you for your fast response. I might buy one this week.
Hey everyone! May I got an advice - are the O'MIN cues or some other common brands like it... Are those cues playable? Or it's kinda bullshit stuff?😀
And one the very important question - If I need an own customised made cue, where I can apply to make it with delivery in EU? Thanks a lot!
Coaching can be given as how to open the frame
Will a 10mm ferrule hinder me getting reaction when putting side and screw on the ball?
No. That's absolutely fine 👍
how much does one piece cue and two piece cues matter?
When you are sitting around a parlor isn't it uncomfortable to hang a 57 inch stick around your back? Also, can you use a pool cue to play snoooker? Also, do they make 2 piece snoooker cues?
Interesting, as I am only 5'6"ish I should have a cue which is a bit shorter than average, maybe 56". However, having done a thorough review of cues for sale I cannot find any cues less than 57" and I cannot afford a made to measure cue. Your thoughts please Steve? Cheers.
About the cue lenght, should it really reach your shoulder? I mean, Mark Williams is roughly 190 cm tall but he (as majority of the players) uses a 147 cm cue.
Im asking that because its really hard to find snooker cues in my country (Brazil), i have had some trouble finding a good one with 151 cm (my shoulder's height).
Should I try adapting myself to 145 - 147 cm?
&io0099
Hi Steve where can I get a longer cue as I’m 6 ft 2” and the standard cue length seems to be 57” my ideal length would be 59” but there seems to be no cues of this length out there thanks for all the great videos I’ve learnt a lot from them keep up the good work
hi mate if you check out greenbaize its a cue shop in the uk near Middlesbrough they have a range of longer length cues and very good quality!
Or Craftsman cues near Leeds.
Good
Can we check the straightness of cue by rolling into the table ?
Better to rifle sight it by eye as its possible that the butt may not be perfectly round thus making you mistakenly believe your cue is not straight.
How about Cue deflection ? a lot of good cues have low cue deflection.
I play a lot of pool at the moment because I work in a bar that has a game lounge with decent pool tables. I dont have access to a snooker table but hope to play snooker in the future as I have played snooker in the past. I want to buy a snooker cue because I dont want to get too used to playing with pool cues with huge tips. Is it a bad idea to use a snooker cue if you are just playing pool?
i m 6 feet 2inches tall so wat would be the best cue length that suits me?
But what is more popular amongst the pros -- ash or maple? I'll wager that one material is significantly more preferred. And does one material maintain its "straightness" better over the years versus the other?
Currently it's Ash. When Stephen Hendry was number one many people switched to maple. Either timber is equally reliable.
Hi Steve.
I opted for a peradon cue as it was the longest the shop did at around 58” but I’m 6,4 and it is just above my chest. Would I need a Taylor made cue for my size ? But don’t want to pay a fortune as I’m no Ronnie type player
In my experience, all the people I know that are tall and very good players, all use standard length cues of 58". You could possibly have a cue that is a bit longer, but the longer you go I think you run the risk of losing some of the feel and characteristics of the wood.
For someone like yourself, I think it just means you end up having a more compact action, and there's nothing wrong with that. My cue is 57.5" and I don't hold it right at the back anyway, I've got a good inch and a half left at the butt end.
As long as you've got a bridge length of around 9.5" (from the V of the bridge hand to the tip at the cue ball), then you should be absolutely fine.
Thanks very much for the reply that’s great advice. I have adapted to the cue so now with that piece of mind hopefully play with more confidence.
Keep up the good work 😎👍🏻
@@stevengreensmith8998 cheers Steven. Thanks for watching and good luck with your snooker 🙂
How do you know which snooker instructional video to watch? Well... It comes down to personal preference.
Exactly right David 😂
Hi Steve, is curvature of the tip important? Mine is similar to yours, but some like it flatter and some like it more curved, would the latter cause some cueing problems?
Thanks Robert
My cues only 56.5 long and im 6ft. Plus I don't hold the cue on the flat. I hold it so my arms vertical.also. my tip size is 9.1mm and is 18oz in weight with a 30' b/diameter! Ive heard a few pros like higgins and ding use a cue shorter than 57 but not sure if thats true.
Higgins has. He likes to be as compact as possible to minimise error.
Agree. Cue brand and specs just for advise. But cue is cue. It need to be pick up by hands, play some shots and feel it. Then will find what is real need for you.
I’ve never seen ash grain so delicate. Lovely piece of craftsmanship you have man what cue is that? I myself have an amazing Maximus legend cue I feel like they could’ve graded it as an ultimate and it plays like a dream the feedback is the best I’ve ever felt
Hi! Thanks! My cue was made by a local cue maker to me (Dean Jones). He used to work for Powerglide and now works for himself.
Maximus are lovely cues. I know some of the pros use those now. The ones I've seen really do look good.
@@BartonSnooker I recently just had my cue from Dean and he sorted me a deal on my Peradon one piece case when I picked up my cue. If you're local to the West Midlands it's worth popping over to Mucklows Hill way and to Dean's shop. He's a top bloke and master craftsman with a great table in his workshop as well, check his page out on Facebook
Is the riley ebony series 5 cue very good?
Hi Steve thanks for the video-I’m having a cue custom built by peradon at the moment, with a smaller tip (9.25 mm) and with a century titanium ferrule fitted to minimise deflection and throw. What are your opinions on the new titanium ferrules? Also out of curiosity: what brand is your cue?
Hi Matt,
The titanium ferrules don't do much in my experience. I have used many cues with titanium ferrules and the throw is not significantly changed. Just seems the same as any other cue to me. They will last longer though of course, so that's a bonus.
My cue is a 'Dean Jones'. He's local to me and makes custom hand made cues.
@@BartonSnooker Ah thank you thats useful to know, and nice one: I just didn’t recognise the logo in the disc 😊
Hi coach
I request you to make video on use of different pressure grip. I feel it actually. Or the pressure on grip is always same irrespective of type of shot, stun, stun run through, follow through, soft screw , deep screw, drag. Please let me know.
Hello. My advice is, within reason, you are trying to keep the grip the same pressure on all shots.
Squeezing the cue to tight during the delivery is a cause of a lot of problems for a lot of players. So trying to keep the grip relaxed is very important.
Hope that helps 🙂
@@BartonSnooker Thank you very much.
Actually confusion between what is right to do and what not to do also cause gripping the cue in wrong way specially in pressure situation, and it is because of lack of formal coaching.
Thanks for expert advice. My own observation about game has been my coach. You add something which mean much to me.
Everything “comes down to personal preference”
It sure does
I am 5 feet tall ;( that means I nead custom hand made small size que??
Please advise me
I do not know, but I think not. Pool players from the Philippines are very short, and they play with 58 inch cues just fine. That is pool though, so I am not sure about Snooker.
Steve, why are pool cues so different to Snooker? I have a 7x4 ft table with both sets of balls. Would never dream of using one of those awful pool cues with the massive tip. What’s the difference/benefit of a pool cue?
Hahaha Cuntery cue tips.
10/10
😅
@@BartonSnooker Keep up the vids mate. Love your cuntent
@@DeanWhipper I see what you did there.
What is the problem with Cuntury Cue tips?
😁😁
me too lol at 3:03 i did ask the same thing but my comment got deleted .
What's with the blurred out tip. You have sparked my curiosity.
Just a typo so I blurred it out.
@@BartonSnooker ahh right that's dissapointing then. I thought it was some sort of sacred tip that only members of the secret snooker society are allowed to use.
@@marloneverington haha! 😁
When playing a lot is it practical to rotate the cue every number of shots as opposed to always holding the cue naturally in only one position? ( Flat side of butt down). Does doing this evens out any wear on cue and tip? Or just a non issue? Cheers, Michael
Non issue mate. Just chalk it better.
Hi Steve. Interesting video.
Is there any reason why there is a flat on the cue butt, is it something to do with cue balance?. should I hold the cue with the flat in any particular position,
regards Alan.
No real reason other than tradition. Cue makers made that little flat part to put their badge on.
These days cues are all made with the arrows (the pointy grain in the wood) pointing along the top of the cue when the flat is facing the ceiling. So most players have the flat part pointing up!
Woul you please tell me the cue brand you’re using?
My cue is made by a local cue maker to me. His name is Dean Jones.
BartonSnooker thanks for your quick response Coach. And would you please tell me if it is possible to order this cue? And if yes how long does it take to make this cue?
@@BartonSnooker the logo look awfully alike to Craftsman's...
Hi Steve, I am looking at changing from my current tip to trying something else as I think I need more consistency in the tip. Regardless of the make of tip all of them come in different hardness ratings (soft to granite hard). Is there a general characteristic when choosing particular hardness? For example I hear the harder tips can throw the cue ball more when applying side but they are more consistent. Soft tips grip a lot, don't throw as much but can be a bit more inconsistent in feedback. I would like to avoid having to accounts for a lot of throw as I find this makes the long pots with side much harder.
Am I characterising this correctly? Any other tips 😉 about the bahviour of different hardness in tips please?
you just need to practice on your cueing
I've not found any tips that feel any better than a Medium Elk Master Pro - I keep going back to them. For snooker I use a 10mm and very fractionally shave it down. For English pool I use the 9mm. Too soft just means it'll wear out faster and I've personally never cared for very hard tips as they give little feel and less grip, although Elk Master Pros seem to be a little softer in general, even the hard ones.
I've tried a lot of tips but never any of these new really expensive layered things as they just seem like a ripoff to me. I'm sure many of them play well but I doubt they'd play any better, for me at least, than the EMP mediums.
I saw there is a beveled cover at the end of cues. Anyone tell me what does that used to? many thanks!
It's a throwback to the date of the nsce which had a flat for shovelling the balls along. The stick part of the mace rested over the shoulder. The flat recognises that old tradition. I have the Cues n Views channel and collect old cues.
My personal preference is using a broom stick to defeat Ronnie and ding jin hui
I'm 6'4 and am struggling to find a longer cue (61" ish) - so as an interim I've screwed in a 6" ext to my 58" cue. Is this workable or best for just the occasional shot?
İf you're asking about snooker cue, then you can call Cuecraft and ask if they can make you a longer cue. On the other Side you should check your grip cause İ think standard 145cm cue should be good for your size as well. İ had a problem with my grip and fixed it with a mirror.
I ordered a cue online and it came today. It looked amazing but the tip looked riduculasly small. I was able to play standard long straight shots on my pool table but i compared the tip to a cue i had already with a 10mm tip and it looked almost twice the size as the new one.
The new cue was supposed to 9.7mm but i measured it and it was barely nine.
Two questions
Was i measuring it right?
Does it make a difference?
You need to measure the diameter of the top of the ferrule. So just underneath the tip. It might just be the tip was taken down too much. See what size the ferrule is and you might find it is 9.7mm.
@@BartonSnooker hi Steve I've actually found out that I need a small ferule/tip and I've gone right down to 8.5. I really struggled for ages with a thicker tip even 9mm so I tried it and I can really see the line of aim so much better now. I know I have to concentrate on center ball striking more but it's been great tbh. What's your thoughts?
@@garysoulsby207 I have a cue and the tip is 8mm
Not tried it out yet as i think that it may snap
Thank you so much for probably the most comprehensive video on cues. I have a quick question if you can help, please. Can you tell us how to fix the slightly misaligned chevrons with respect to the flat part of the butt end? Mine are slightly off. A video would be perfect, but even a reply that helps me would be great! Thank you!
Hi! You would need to take your cue to a cue maker. I assume you are using a 3/4 cue, and when you screw the cue together it is not quite right.
This would be something that a cue maker may be able to put right for you. It will need the joint adjusting, so it will need an expert!
Hope that helps 🙂
Wow. I was really expecting / hoping for a description of the behavioral differences between the extremes of the range of normal cue variables. Something like "a light cue imparts more spin with less effort" or "a more narrow tip allows you to get closer to the table on a draw shot, thus imparting more English". Saying "it's all up to personal preference" is almost useless (to me, anyway.) Even when you talked about more/less 'whippy', you mention that 'affects how the white ball reacts" but don't explain what more whippy does to the white ball vs less whippy. You could have added a LOT more value (for me, anyway,) without many more words or time. But thanks for the effort!
P.S. This is mostly because I don't have a billiard store nearby and need to mail-order cues, so don't have an opportunity to 'try-before-you-buy' and get to know what feels better. My recollection is I used to shoot with a 15oz and it was quite 'whippy' and seemed easy to spin the white ball. That is my inclination, but was looking for some insight that I may have missed or not realized, since I usually eschew heavier cues... Thanks again.
I think that was my general intention for this video.
People put so much emphasis on: what tip they use, how heavy the cue is, how whippy the cue is, what wood is used, where the balance point is etc.
Truth be told, all of those things change the way the white behaves, but all those things are SO TINY in comparison to the player actually improving, that unless you're making 130+ breaks constantly, and you need something that just absolutely suits your own fine touch and feel, it's really not worth worrying about.
Whatever you use, you'll get used to it, and as I say, you'll find things that YOU like the feel of.
But talking about a cue being whippy and therefore not giving as much cue ball deflection when playing with side... well the problem is, change the tip and that will alter again slightly, the ferrule will alter it, adding or removing weight will alter it etc etc.
So the point of the video was really "get something you like the feel of, and don't overanalyse it. Because there are so many factors at play, that until you're continuously making hundred breaks, don't worry about it".
Hope that makes sense, and thanks a lot for watching 👍🙂
Are 1piece cues better than 2 ?
What kind of cue do you use Steve? I really like the piece of brass in the butt end of your cue. I have a peradon cantebury and it has a unique splicing at the but end it is strarting to crack on the one of the splices. I feel in the future when I decide to upgrade a cue like that could be alittle more beneficial to me seeing as I have a bad habit of putting the butt on the floor as I chalk my tip.
Hi. My cue was made by Dean Jones. He's a local cue maker by me. If you Google his name you should get his details.
Thanks a bunch
Thanks for this, I was always concerned that my cue balance was off as I had it adjusted years ago, but when I pick up another cue I can't play with it. It's a Tony Glover cue which I had made years ago, love it. Also I love Blue diamond tips.
Can I have a joint added on the bottom? I don't have one at the moment
Yes. Any good maker will be able to fit you a joint no problem.