How To Lower a Lawn Tractor As Low As Possible Pt. 2
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- čas přidán 25. 01. 2023
- Welcome to part 2 of slamming the Murray riding lawn mower! In this video, we adjust our steering, clutch, and shift linkages to compensate for “the slam”.
Although I do not plan on racing this lawn mower, I would consider this to be influenced heavily by race mower builds that I have seen. I may not have known exactly how to lower a riding lawn mower when this started, but I'm starting to get it figured out... I think
Tools used in this video:
- HF 4-1/2” angle grinder
- Miller 120V welder w/ flux core wire
- Dewalt 20V drill and impact driver
- various hand tools
If anybody asks, I do not recommend anyone, under any circumstances, or for any reason, to ever replicate, or attempt to replicate, the shenanigans portrayed in this video. This was a test conducted in accordance with the strict supervisory procedures and protocols put forth by me, to me and for me with regard to me own safety. Or something like that.
🤞😎 - Jak na to + styl
Another Home Run!!...I've looked at TONS of YT mower mod sites and NEVER have i seen a build with as much clear instruction and innovation!...already waiting on the next one!
Thank you very much!
Yea it's great video on building but I was commenting on the guy welding without gloves I know I weld but would not ever weld without gloves a disaster waiting to happen to hands
I wanna buy this.....what's ur price, my guy??? CASH MONEY
People don't appreciate how much effort is done to get to the finished product!
I am enjoying your can-do attitude, your excellent editing, and your straight-ahead approach to solving the inevitable dilemmas. I am doing a similar project, but with a purpose-built frame. Used a jackshaft to get the power up to the pulley on top; seating behind the transaxle rather than over it. Kinda slingshottish. Anyway, you inspire me. Good gumption vibes. Onward!
Wow, thank you very much! I love hearing that others have similar projects going on and yours sounds particularly interesting
Got a free mower before winter. Just about to pull it out and try to lower it a bit. THANK YOU FOR THIS SERIES. So many great ideas executed wonderfully.
Thank you very much!
Great work
This is awesome bud, I gotta do one now, so cool. But or the steering linkage, im gonna try to thread the rods and then thread the inside of a pipe. It would be adjustable and stronger than 2 butt welds per side.
Great video!
Just found your videos, This is the best built video I've seen in forever! One good thing about just now finding you is i don't have to wait for the next video 😂 I'm binge watching the series , Awesome job!
Thank you very much!!
Man, that’s a good looking ford you have!
Good soundtrack
this is an amazing series thank you! Welds are a lot stronger than I thought! haha
Thank you!!
Great video
Thank you!
I was curious how you were going to do the steering! And damn is it low. Can't wait to see it moving!
Just watching the series. I want to see where this is going. Even a simple comment helps you with the algorithm.
That’s awesome, thank you very much!
adding magnets under the frame can turn this into a one mean lean beer bottle caps picker upper out at any public picnic or beach ?
Awesome project, and literally the only place I'm going to knock you is "flat strap". I've been with a structural steel company for the past 15 years. In the industry, that's "flat bar". It's bar stock; round bar, square bar, or flat bar. I'm not trying to be a Karen, what you're doing is friggin' awesome, and I'm going to be a new subscriber. I'm just wanted to say something before the keyboard welders started attacking.
First of all, thank you very much for the compliment!
On the terminology, I do buy a lot of steel and I know the technical names, but I’ve always had a hard time with flat bar. I honestly don’t have a good reason for calling it flat strap, but we use it to make what we call “floor straps”, so it feels more natural.
Just want to let you know that is not a transmission it is cold gearbox is the rear differential gear box that whole gear lube
Square corner holes create stress risers. Next time when cutting a structural member, it would be best practice to use a step drill at each end of the opening the cut out between the tangent points of the round holes. 😉
loving the videos mate.
just a bit of advice when drilling holes 20:35 small holes high speed, large holes LOW speed.
the speed your drilling the larger holes will dull your drill bit and ruin the temper on the cutting edge, making them a sod to sharpen.
Thank you!
@@wybarprojects your welcome, i did a pre-apprenticeship course in 2010, so i could learn to weld and time was split between welding and machine shop.
the other bit of advice re: drilling, cutting FLUID is not oil, some water with a bit of detergent (a surfactant to spead the water) is way better than WD40 or oil.
cutting fluid is to used remove the heat, oil lubricates and prevents the drill from cutting, it generates more heat and blunts drill faster
loving the videos, sadly most of my murrays have a pressed frame and not a chassis like yours
@@amandagardner565 that’s awesome!
Ya, I got lucky with my mower. My neighbor just set it out on the street one day so I asked him about it and he said he got a new one and I could have for free 😂
You'll probably want to put the big pulley on the engine... It's gonna be slow. Good video.
Thank you!
I do plan on going with a larger pulley on the front, but it will be a new steel pulley.
Lol. 2/8" don't you mean a 1/4"
I like this guy, he builds by the seat of his pants does something and figures out how to make it work. Sounds like something I'd do.
2/8” is just easier to for me to work with sometimes 😂
And you nailed my build philosophy: do what feels right and adjust it later if you need to
Yea that's the way I do things in shop just think as I build
What about the hydro fluid in the transaxle.... will it oil correctly.
So far, yes. But time will tell
Not saying anything bad just maybe suggestions on steering linkage weld up ! Seen a few guys use angle iron ! laying the steering linkage in at the back of 90 and burn it in ! over lapping linkage and angel iron 4 or 5 inches ! Most likely stronger than butt welding two pieces o rod together !
So cool. 😊
A threaded rod connector / turnbuckle would have been good on the steering linkage for adjustable toe in - out . Easy to come up with from the comfort of my armchair.
Same thought I had
I am glad you don't build my machines LOL...
what kind of mower are you using?
It’s a Murray LT1000 Widebody
Im sure by rhis time u have already discovered that the 5 or 6 speed w/ R hydro trannies don't work well at all and definitely dont shift as expected , but we also have been known to use 20 hp oppys . Do you plan to do a pulley swap? Its the only way to get anythingbetter than mowing speed IF you have any intent to put any power to the trans , we have been having pretty good luck with the F N R automatics and use the supplied variable speed pulley and a pair of idlers to clutch it . Just thought id toss that in there . Have fun and keep it safe !
I don't really plan on adding any power, but I have done a pulley swap on the rear. I'm still contemplating doing a swap on the front as well.
Great video but I’ve got to wonder why you didn’t raise the engine plate instead of building the risers, looks like it would unbolt and you could have put the risers underneath
Thank you!
Welding the risers just seemed like an easier and more stable option
Just curious why keep the mower steering instead of doing something similar to kart steering?
The main reason is that would cost money. I may do custom steering with tie rod ends in the future, but my goal is to leave it as stock as possible for as long as possible for the lowest cost possible. I want to be able to tell people “if you have a mower, a grinder, and a welder, you can do this too”
@@wybarprojects that's what my thoughts were as I'm thinking about doing this as well! Just dont have a welder:/
@@CaptainLD69 I know a few hundred dollars is nothing to shake a stick at, but you can get a good used welder for about $300-500 and once you get it figured out, there’s no question about whether it was worth it.
@@wybarprojects any recommendations of brand/model? Also preferably something for a regular outlet as I'm renting only for another year so rather not have a new outlet put in.
@@CaptainLD69 I know people that swear by Harbor Freight and Northern Tool house brands, although I haven’t had personal experience with them in at least 10 years and they were not great back then. I stick to Miller, Lincoln, and Hobart. They each offer a 110/120 volt option that works great. The one I’ve been using in these videos is a Millermatic 135 with .035” flux core wire. I would check FB marketplace, Craigslist, etc. and just test it before you buy it
Why doesn't the vehicle reverse when you reverse the axle?
If you only flip the axle it will have 6 reverse and 1 forward gear, but if you flip it then spin it 180° you’ll get the 6 forward and 1 reverse again.
Here’s a short video explaining it: How To Flip a Rear Axle and Keep ALL Forward Gears!
czcams.com/users/shortsynkx2HVngCE?feature=share
@@wybarprojects thanks man
What do you do eh en the weld is not good
Grind it off, check your settings, and try again
I wonder why he just didn't use a go cart torque converter instead of a transmission?
Welding without gloves Huh
Ya, it’s by choice. I prefer dexterity and deal with everything else
You better have some positive caster in the front end or you won't be able to steer it ,lean the front axle back at the top !!!
The steering came out great. I didn’t change any of the angles, just cut the axle and shifted it up. It steers like a stock mower still!