How to Service the Drive Belt and Blade Clutch on a John Deere JE75/JX75 Self Propelled Mower
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- čas přidán 2. 10. 2020
- Learn how to replace the drive belt on a John Deere JE75/JX75 Self Propelled Walk Behind mower, as well as how to remove and replace the Blade Clutch assembly. If your JE75/JX75 ends up with a broken drive belt, replacing it requires removing the blade clutch assembly, and a few tricks are essential to successfully accomplishing this task. Learn my secrets to breeze your way through this moderately difficult DIY task. The replacement OEM belt is John Deere Part M77167, amzn.to/4dqVpB0 which is a 3/8" x 34" (861mm long x 9.65mm wide x 5.59mm thick)
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I'm 74 and have COPD. Today with the record temperatures expected I called our oldest son Jon to change our drive belt. Jon is a Chief Engineer in our US Merchant Marine Service employed with Offshore Oil Drilling off Louisiana. He's home on vacation so helps with our various powered mowers. We have 2.5 Acres of manicured lawn.
I fired it up today. I have had a JX75 push mower for 15 years, now. After the transmission rebuild and belt replacement made possible by your videos, it is back in operation. Believe me, at 80, I will appreciate the working transmission.
My JX75 made it 24yrs with the original blade clutch and drive belt. I just replaced both, and wouldn’t have done so were it not for your excellent how-to. I appreciate all of the details, and you were right about not being able to hold the shaft from turning by using a breaker bar and socket on the nut under the recoil starter!
Your video saved me $300 in shop labor, and I gained knowledge that I didn’t have before.
Thank you!
This Video save me so much time. I own a John Deere Jx 75. It’s the same Mower as the one in this video , but it doesn’t have electric Start. I had been contemplating changing the drive belt for the last 2 years, because I bought the mower in January of 2000. The mower is Garage kept , so that’s prabably why the original belt lasted so long. Anyway , I followed the video Step by step an was able to change it . The hardest part was getting the bolt off with the 8 mm wrench. I used a lubricant similar to WD-40, couldn’t get it to bulge, but I kept on spraying it , until eventually it came off. Also, for my mower I ended up trying a (( 5/16th SAE hex key) it fit better than the 8mm one that was used in the video. Anyway , Thanks again for Making this Video. It definitely saved me a lot of time an ((Money)).
Very informative, but I have never had to take the blade clutch off to replace the belt. I never even have had to pull the engine off. The belt will slide over the lever that sticks out and holds the cable for the clutch in gauge. Just remove the hook. Then push the belt in through the deck sliding one end of the loop over the lever then pull it through the bottom. It’s a tight fit, but totally can be done. . Just pull the spring and the long bolt that holds the clutch in place. I’m also able to pull the belt off the pulley in back without ever taking the pulley off. After it’s all done just stick a flat head screwdriver through the end of the spring. Place the flat head screwdriver tip on the hook and using leverage it slides down the screwdriver and pops on the hook. The whole belt replacement should take less than two hours. Probably one if you do it enough. I’m the proud owner of a Jx-75 and Jx-85 and three 14sbs. I have also owned the 14Sc and 14se. Never pulled the clutch on any of them to do a belt replacement.
Yet another super helpful video from wbb. Without these servicing videos I would definitely be lost. My JE75 was built in 1997 and is still going strong. Thanks for keeping youtube useful.
Just did this today, and it can be done w/o removing the blade brake clutch. Basically follow everything about removing the spring, bolt holding clutch and taking out top two engine mounts, while loosening the bottom two mounts. You can then let the engine hang out and use some bent needle nose pliers to bend the belt guides under the engine enough to slip the belt off and then fish it around the still mounted BBC. Reinstall new belt, bend belt guides back and reinstall. whidebean video was a must watch to understand this process, but you can skip some steps if you want to do it quicker.
Thank you very much! My belt is very worn from 22 years of service and I have been dreading having to replace the belt when it finally gives up and breaks. Now I have the confidence to replace it myself without having to pay a shop to do it. I owe you a beer! Hats off to you my friend!!
Thank you so much for the detailed video. I used it to replace The drive belt on a 1999 JA65. Very similar except I only had 3 bolts holding the motor to the body. I could not have done this without your expertise. Saved me a bunch of money
Dave
Thank you for this video!
I completed the belt replacement yesterday.
I was able to get the belt on the rear pully without removing the pully.
I messed up and only shoved a small portion of the belt into the spark plug hole, and that did not stop the engine from rotating. I ended up shoveing almost the entire belt in. I had a lot of trouble getting the allen-headed bolt off.
I had to completely remove the motor from the body to have enough room to give the blade clutch control arm enough clearance to get the upper cluch assembly off the shaft.
On the plus side, I was able to slide it off the shaft without using the bolt to pull it off like in the video.
I found that someone had previously installed the belt guide by the front pully incorrectly (upside down).
Fantastic and clear with many essential tips. I’m ready to go do this.
Your instructions worked perfectly. Made a big job simple.
Excellent video! Every detail pertinent and easier than John Deere recommended belt replacement advice!
Excellently, done. Very clear and well explained. Thanks!
Great video. I had no hope without it. Thank you!!
Thanks for the video! I love my SB14 and the steps were identical.
FYI the bolt needed is 14mm coarse (2.0) threads. THANKS FOR THE GREAT video.
Excellent video, saved me a couple hours and lots of frustration!
This clears the removal of the clutch to replace the belt! Outstanding job…but I still will need a professional!
Excellent tutorial, thank you very much! I picked up two of these fine mowers over the winter and I’m looking forward to restoring them. Clutch removal looks pretty simple if all of the bolts cooperate, I will soak them with penetrating oil for a few days in advance. Great video!
I used this video to figure out how to change the belt on a 14SB. You don't actually have to take the second part of the clutch off of the lawnmower. Just taking that long locator bolt out and unhooking the spring and tilting the engine like in the video will give you enough room to get the belt in place.
I was also able to get the new belt on the deck other pully without having to remove the pully.... but it was kinda tricky.
I did my 14sb the same way. Glad I saw your comment
i am newbie here trying to fix my 14 sb, can you designate the time on the video of the part you dont have to do? many thanks
also, if you remove your blade clutch assembly, I STRONGLY recommend that you clean the crank shaft it slides onto, sand paper will work fine, and remove all that rust, and then coat the shaft AND a little on the inside of the clutch assembly bore with anti-seize. This will keep the moisture out and insure the clutch comes on and off easily in the future. If you have a EARLY model clutch, you wont have the threads inside the clutch for a M14 bolt to thread into...so good luck getting it off, its a major PITA! If your clutch fails, your looking at anywhere from $170 to $280 for a new one. But these are really REALLY good mowers, and worth it to fix and keep running.
thanks for you excellent presentation. JA65 needed belt replaced I was able to fish the belt onto the pulley without removing the upper clutch plate. a little bit of work but in the end its done. Thanks again
I was gifted the 14 SB six months ago and just recently started working on it it was a dirty mess leaking gas now it's up and running and when the blade clutch is engaged it is so quiet and then when blade is disengaged it's whining this video was a great help
Good video, I stripped out that damn bolt,first ever belt change after 35 years. Chisel and hammer on the washer part got it finally move it. Tried grinding flats on screw head but it wouldn't budge.
This is a very well done video. I've made professional automotive videos before and this one is definitely a good quality one. For what could be a slightly complicated repair on this mower, the camera work was very good and all the little help tips along the way were excellent. The only negative thing I can say about this is that the sound trailed off in a few places BUT I just had to turn my volume up to compensate. My JX75 is a great mower and I've only needed to make several minor repairs on it over the past 21 years. I did purchase a spare drive belt this year (2020) "just in case" my OEM belt ever fails, and found this video only because I was interested in what the replacement procedure might be. I definitely recommend watching if you ever need to change your drive belt.
I did the same thing! My 21 year old JX75 needed new wheels and a tune up so I bought a belt while I was at it. Thank goodness for this video.
@@jeffreyhansen350 This is by far the best mower I've ever had Jeff. I've had to replace the Drive Control Cable (the one from the Throttle down to the Trans), the Drive Wheel keys/and gears, rear wheels, and the Lower Handlebar which just broke through one of the attaching screw holes to the Upper Handlebar. I'm still running with the original spark plug! even though I pull it every couple years to check the gap and clean it off. And this thing still starts up, even in the spring on first use, with its first pull. Just before putting it away for Winter, I do put a little Sta-bil in the gas tank, fill it up, start the mower, then turn the gas supply to the carb off, and let the mower run until it stops on its own. In the Spring maybe 5 months later, just turn the gas supply back on, wait a few minutes, and I'll say 95+% of the time it starts on first pull. Again, this is a great mower if you also provide routine maintenance for everything else as well. I just wish JD still made these walk-behinds.
Great video. One note on removing the transmission input pulley. A thin 18mm open end wrench, such as those sold a bicycle shop, can be slid under the pulley to counter hold the pulley.
Great video-thank You for sharing
Great video got do a 14 SB this week👌👌👌
This really helped me out a lot.
Thank you. Looked all over trying to find out how to get that upper clutch off. I ended up pulling the motor off and driving it off with an air chisel.
Great video
Thank you so much! Very helpfull👍
Excellent. Thank you
very helpful video
well explained thank you
Thank you so much and give me a great idea and helps me out a lot by
Nifty "rubber band on the spring" trick!
You’re a lifesaver. I’m about to do this and this video is going to save the neighbors from hearing a plethora of cuss words. Freaking John Deer. They had to make it a pain in the arse just to change the belt. I heard how some guy was put in jail for shooting his lawnmower with a shotgun. I actually can empathize with the guy.
thank you very much.
I have an old piece of black gas pipe, 1", about two feet long, that I slip over my ratchet handle to give me extra leverage when I loosen bolts such as the tswo holding the blade onto the mower's driveshaft. Would also work nicely over the allen wrench.
Good idea with the vice grips on the belt so pulley doesn’t spin. Thank you.
That wasn’t enough tension for me because the nut was too frozen. I had to use huge wide mouth pliers to hold the wheel secure.
I have to hold the blade-engage lever while mowing or it slips and/or disengages, do you think that means I have to replace the clutch? Thank you, and for these videos.
I saw this video and its very well done. I have learnt very much. Thank you for showing.
Where can I get transmission parts for JX75
Necessity is the mother of invention
I have a JD 14SE…..need a belt replaced…this may be helpful when I go to replace the belt!
Wow, I bet this is exactly what my Lawn mower needs!! Of course it’s a John Deere and looks very similar to this. It’s a very good lawn mower but it’s just giving me grief. It seems to have no power, when I start it and black smoke comes out the side. When I lower the blade it stops. I took it in and all they did was grease the control. My brother suggested the clutch but now he is gone!!
Great video and tips! How did you come up with the idea of stuffing the old belt in the cylinder to stop the engine?
I'd like to point out that this same process can be used for the mid- late 90"s 14SB & SE's. They're basically the same in a lot of ways. I'm rebuilding a seized motor on a 14SE ('92 I think? ) I took the shroud off and used a good pry bar to lock the flywheel instead of the belt tho, since I wasn't throwing it. I did have an issue tho, that 8mm hex bolt finally gave way, then it locked again after a few turns. Tried a tightening and loosening several times, even using a cheater bar but no go. Almost seems like it's not actually backing out. Going to grab a bit for my drill tomorrow and try that. This is the only thing holding me back from having the entire motor torn down tonight so hope it works.
thanks
Great video, I was able to get it finished and put back together. However, the next day, the string was very difficult to pull to get the mower started. Any insight as to why? I was thinking maybe I jammed the old belt through the spark plug hole jumbled up the mower.
It’s possible a part of the rope or belt used to seize the piston broke in the combustion chamber, or the clutch/blade are getting jammed if the motor is not properly seated on the deck. With the spark plug out, try rotating the blade and look for jamming under the deck. If it swings less than 360 degrees, remove the cylinder head and inspect the combustion chamber.
This was great except for one small detail, you disconnected a small clip from on top of the shaft and never showed when you reconnected it. I assume that has to be done at a certain point in the process.
I have one of these mowers and I like it, but grass builds up on the underside of it really bad when mulching. I have no desire to bag... Grass packs in around the clutch untill the mower stalls. I think the circular dam built into the deck around the clutch plays a role. There is a discharge chute out there (M76488) but at $75 is an eye popping amount of money to pay for a piece of plastic. Any tips on keeping the grass out?
For future users: The GX21552 belt John Deere recommends for a JX75 is about 6 inches too long. I'm trying the M77167 belt.
Excellent job of instructing, camera work and the naming of components. How old is that lawnmower? My JD 14SB is over 30 years old.
So is my Dam Near Mint Condition (Chrome Handle) 1988/1989 14sb czcams.com/video/kLJIhLvzb68/video.html
According to the JD service manual, there should be no slack in the clutch cable. Just FYI. Torque specs are 55lb/ft for the blade bolts and center bolt attaching clutch to crank.
Hey any thoughts on where to get the brass bushings on the outside where the axle passes through? These are now a lil oblong
John Deere dealership can order these and there are also online John Deere parts vendors
Great video. I bought a JX75 a year ago for $50 and then installed a new clutch. However I have a problem that many have noted--namely the cord is very hard to pull. (Instead, I have permanently tied up the bail and engage lever so the clutch is not braking the blades-the mower is now easy to start.) When "disengaged" shouldn't the clutch braking mechanism be independent of the drive shaft so that starting is easy. Does anyone know what is wrong? Is the clutch bolt over or under torqued? I followed the video closely with a Warner clutch.
I haven’t experienced this with my mower. As you hypothesize, the blade brake stops the blade but is decoupled from the motor shaft. It sounds like your clutch may be sticking somehow so that it is passing a braking load to the motor shaft when it shouldn’t.
@@whidbeyben I am intrigued at your torquing of the hex nut. You tightened it to an extent that the hex nut (and engine) freely rotated with the allen wrench (with the clutch presumably disengaged as the cable has not been attached yet). Perhaps my only problem is over torquing. I'll report back.
Thanks! Only issue with mine: my blade brake clutch (shown around @7:54) the spring coil fell apart. Any thoughts on how to get it back together? Really helpful video
There's no way to repair the spring, so order a replacement from John Deere.
I was able to put the clutch assembly back together, but now the blade will not engage. Is this because the clutch assembly?
@@matts3694 Best case scenario is that the spring at the end of the control cable simply slipped off the control arm on the top half of the clutch or control handle, or the control cable is broken. When you engage the blade brake on the mower handle, you should see the clutch control arm moving, and cable tightening. Other possibilities are if the friction plates are damaged or contaminated with grease, or if the clutch isn't installed correctly. I'm hoping it's just a misplaced control cable connection to either the control arm or handle.
@@whidbeyben found it. I had to pull everything off again, and put it back on with emphasis on making the bolts as tight as possible. its now engaging :) thank you very much for all your help!
I replaced my belt with an M77167. It appears to be a little short. Are there different JD mowers with different belts? Is there another belt a few inches longer?
Or did I do something wrong?
M77167 is the correct belt for the JE75. Be sure the transmission is not engaged by unhooking the cable. This should allow the pulley to tilt forward. If working on something other than the JE75 or JX75, a different belt may be required.
FYI, it is possible to remove the belt guide plate, then slip off the belt. You don't need to remove the entire clutch.
Mam problem z napędem noża nie rozpędza się, pomocy.
What size replacement belt do I need? In inches please.
amzn.to/4dqVpB0 John Deere part M77167, which is approx 3/8" x 34". The John Deere spec is 861mm long x 9.65" wide x 5.59mm thick. I've just added this to the description. Thanks for asking.
Do you know what belt that was?? I'm having a hard time locating the replacement belt
John Deere M77167/Gates 6734/Stens 238-034/Dayco L334. Any one of these would be the correct part.
For future users: The GX21552 belt John Deere recommends for a JX75 is about 6 inches too long. I'm trying the M77167 belt.
What’s the torque specs on the clutch. I know that has to be to spec
I'm sorry I don't have a torque spec for the fastener that holds the lower clutch plate to the crankshaft. I use a 6" Allen wrench, which limits the amount of torque that you can apply to maybe 10 ft-pounds. You certainly don't want it to come loose, but you also don't want to damage the fastener with excessive torque.
Can the upper clutch bearing be replaced?
Sorry, I can't say for sure. Personally, I'd replace the upper clutch if the bearing went bad because it would be easy to order from your JD dealership. If you have a machine shop, you could press the bearing out and figure out what replacement bearing would work and press it back in, but that's more work and requires some special equipment.
My clutch engagement lever will not stay down
Mi máquina prende pero no apaga
thanks for the video but wowza they didn't make it easy to get that belt off!