Thanks, just what I needed to diagnose the clutch issue. Got the part from Amazon for $45 and am back in action. Last time a shop worked on it for same issue they charged $300!
Thank you, I was able to remove the old bearing from the lower clutch assembly yesterday. I don't own a cold chisel at the moment, so I substituted with a cheap breaker bar.
Wow man your way of doing this is the best way by far!Lol is locked at someone else's video and lol they took the Cole clutch out all of it .And replace the whole clutch assembly.When they may not have needed to..Just replacing the bearing like you did in this video
When I tried to remove the bolt at the top of the crank shaft, that bolt came undone when trying to remove the bolt in the center of the clutch. Instead, I had a stop that I purchased that you screw into the spark plug hole after removing the spark plug and it stops the piston from moving up and down on the crank shaft. This method worked getting the bbc allen bolt loose whereas I could not get the clutch bolt loose without loosing the bolt at the top of the crankshaft and so the crankshaft would still turn when trying to loosen the bbc allen bolt.
Very helpful video. Need to replace the drive belt on my JX75. Got the bottom half of BBC removed as shown in your video, but I can't get the top half off so I can insert new drive belt. Any tips? Seems to be stuck on there, not even budging.
I assume the JX75 is similar to the 14SB, hoping. When I hold down the clutch handle the engine dies. I gotta see what's going on. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for your great videos. They've save me lots of money keeping my 25+ year old 14SB running. My self propelled cable that I'm buying from the local JD dealer is breaking at the handle connection after about 2 months. Are you having this problem with your JX? Any suggestions? Thanks again!
Is the friction disk basically just a brake pad or is it what spins the blade because if I mow in some wet grass or get some water on the clutch it engages slow and smooth but if it’s dry it makes the mower bog alittle and Immediately engages which I find weird ?
I have a 1997 14SB that I needed to replace the whole blade brake clutch assembly. Your video was helpful but when I tried to loosen the hex bolt at the bottom of the engine by holding the nut at the top of the crankshaft, the nut broke loose and not the hex bolt. I ended up using the trick of removing the spark plug, moving the piston to the bottom of the stroke and inserting a small rope (1/4 inch) into the cylinder and filling it up with the rope. As you turn the hex bolt the piston will compress the rope until it seizes. This worked and I was able to remove the hex bolt. Just pull the rope out when you are done.
Hi jrs1955, I actually had to do the same thing on a older 14SB model. The rope worked well, but it was tedious to get enough rope pushed through the spark plug hole into the cylinder to prevent the engine from turning over. To make the job even more exciting the allen bolt stripped. I ended up using a mallet to hammer on a Craftsman Bolt-Out #10 or #11 to the stripped allen bolt round head. This worked very well to back off the stripped allen bolt, but my bolt-out is still stuck on to the head of the stripped allen bolt...
The small springs by the ball bearings in my upper broke. Anyone know where I can get just the springs? I can replace the ball bearings (there are 3 under the cover of the blade clutch upper, I'm not talking about the bearing in the middle shown here) but can't locate the springs.
This is helpful. I have a quick question. My blade does not disengage when I release the safety bar (on the handle). I need to use a hammer to hit the engagement rod back into its default spot to stop the blade from engaging. I am not sure why this is happening. Any thoughts?
does anyone know if doing this will fix the noise problem even when the blades are not engaged, because I had that problem on my 14se and just spent $70 on a new clutch because i screwed up mine on accident so I was just wondering if this is the actual problem and if anyone has fixed the noise issue by replacing the bearing.
hi there, I just picked up one of these for parts on my Husqvarna as it was cheaper than buying a new shroud and recoil, however my Husqvarna is still pulling rather hard. My lawnboy runs great however has a broken throttle cable and the blade doesn't engage. Therefore I was thinking of swapping engines between the two mowers. Do you happen to know if this is a possibility or a dumb idea all together? I really like the Husqvarna 7021 RES other than it being hard to pull for my wife and I. At first I thought it was just cause it's a 7 HP however my father in law has the same engine on his and it's way easier. Would the electric start contribute to the hard pulls? Any advice would be so appreciated as we are a one income family right now!
Good question. I had a loud high pitch squealing noise when the blades were not engaged. In my case the BBC still appeared to function fine, but I just proactively replaced it because it sounded terrible.
I can't get he bottom hex bolt to loosen without loosening the top nut. Is there another way to keep the drive shaft from moving so I can put adequate pressure on the hex bolt?
+Gregory Gardner absolutely - you can remove the spark plug, place a screw driver in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over until the cylinder bottoms out. At this point you'll want to get a long continuous piece of rope and feed it through the spark plug opening (you may need to use a screw driver to help feed it through the spark plug hole). Once you fill up the cylinder with rope you'll be ready to remove the allen head cap screw as this will prevent the cylinder from sliding upward as the crankshaft rotates. I hope this helps and let us know your results. FYI I actually have a video of this process, but I haven't gotten around to editing it.
Found this video very helpfull Thank you for taking time to post it.To remove the centre bolt I broke the blade bolts loose but left the blade attached so I could hold on to to loosen the centre bolt My problem is I got it all apart the outer ring of the bearing stayed in the housing and the inner ring of the bearing stayed on the shaft I got the outer ring out of the housing, nut do not know how to get the in ring off the shaft. Does anyone know the outside diameter and in side diameter of this bearing My Mower is JD 14 SB 1989 model Thank you for the help James
James Sheane I'm glad you found the video helpful. If I understand your situation correctly you'll need to cut the bearing inner ring off the shaft as shown in czcams.com/video/BIMt0WGmwxQ/video.htmlm10s. Do you have the older and likely original Ogura clutch or newer Warner Electric clutch?
James Sheane does the clutch look like the same clutch design in my video? If so, you need a Nachi 62052NSE sealed bearing. See czcams.com/video/ZgkbUZKbTCQ/video.htmlm52s
This did not work well for me. After removing the bottom of the bbc, the assembly sprung apart. I had not noticed that in my assembly the bottom plate slides into the top disc plate rather than being held in place. Any suggestions?
thanks for great video. very informative. I'm trying to help my cousin with her jx75 that has a related problem. the bbc is separated and did so while her 17 yr old son was operating it. It even cause part of the aluminum deck to break off. Lucky her son was not hurt. Your video is great and easily within my skill set to fix. Wish I had same problem but the 8mm hex bolt is broken deeply inside the shaft. He must have hit something hard or maybe it is just aging results (1998). Any pointers on getting the bolt out. My hopes are that it is meant to shear and can be easily removed.
anniversary4 I'm glad to hear no one was hurt. However, it sounds like you may have some fun trying to remove that broken bolt . You can try using the screw extractor and/or a flat head screw driver to hammer a groove and then try to turn it out (if this were a brass bolt it would be easy to hammer a groove, but I'm not sure it will work with a hardened bolt). If neither of those options work, you can try very carefully drilling out the bolt without damaging the threads. If you happen to damage the threads, just be sure you drill the hole straight - you can use a Heli-Coil thread repair kit.
I run a small engine repair shop. I get these old mowers in my shop every now and then. Everybody loves these mowers but they hate the blade clutch and the cost to replace them. I replace the blade clutch with a blade adapter so they never have to worry about it again.
wcjcnc I agree that the blade break clutch, followed by the transmission on these mowers are the two weak points. What do you use for a blade adapter? Can you provide a link or make and model number? I assume the blade adapter makes it so the blade always spins when the engine is running?
Hey Erik Any idea how the BBC would stop the mower from pull starting? I removed mine and was finically able to pull start it after 2yrs. The bearing seems to spin freely in my hand. The clutch pad maybe?
Didnt look like it, but it looked very rusty. I ended up replacing just the lower portion of the clutch, and its starts right up now. So I assume the spring had something to do with it. Not 100% though. Thanks for all the JX75 videos!
Question: My clutch disengages fine, however when I engage the blade, it doesn't seem to engage properly. It slips, so my blade doesn't cut well, goes over grass without cutting. Thoughts on what part of the clutch is causing this problem? I adjust the cable but that doesn't seem to help.
Rust seems to be the enemy. Changed the clutch and it was fine. Getting that off was difficult though. An air wrench to "break" the bolt free was key. It's a shame because this mower, while robust, has always been a troublesome one with minor problems.
I had a John Deere JX75 with a blade brake clutch that would not disengage and made the engines pull rope very hard to pull. What would the problem be?
Brian Mott Same issue here. I just removed my BBC and it starts up just fine. I don’t think it’s the bearing like in the video, but I’m trying to figure it out now
@Dan Rezac first off you'll want to change Google+ settings so that 'Anyone' can comment on your public posts. Have you disconnected the spark plug boot, tilting your mower on it's side (carburetor up), and tried spinning the blade by hand with and without the clutch engaged? I would check to make sure the bolt going through the clutch arm isn't broken, the spring in the bottom half of the clutch isn't broken, and the clutch arms are intact and not broken. You'll also want to make sure the clutch cable is not broken and is properly connected to the clutch arm. You'll also want to check the tension on the clutch cable as it may just need to be adjusted tighter.
+thegood olddays you can remove the spark plug, place a screw driver in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over until the cylinder bottoms out. At this point you'll want to get a long continuous piece of rope and feed it through the spark plug opening (you may need to use a screw driver to help feed it through the spark plug hole). Once you fill up the cylinder with rope you'll be ready to remove the allen head cap screw as this will prevent the cylinder from sliding upward as the crankshaft rotates. I hope this helps and let us know your results. FYI I actually have a video of this process, but I haven't gotten around to editing it.
Update. Well, turns out on mine the blade brake clutch was on it's way out. Anyway, I priced a new genuine JD BBC, then l got up of the floor ( A big hole in £200 even from eBay😲 Anyway thinking it over very carefully l decided to sell my mower and l bought myself a new Stihl. I like JD mowers but 2 things put me off buying another. (1) l have heard the quality of the newer ones ain't so good compared to the older models . (2) Apparently they aren't making ( Or should that be 'marketing' as the newer ones weren't actually made by JD) Walk behind mowers any more, so no doubt spares will be increasingly more difficult to obtain and thus more expensive.
+Matt Seipel you do not need to replace the entire BBC. However, just make sure the upper half of the BBC is still in good shape so you don't have to do the job twice. You can purchase just the bottom half of the BBC with the friction disc from www.greenfarmparts.com/John-Deere-Clutch-GY20711-p/gy20711.htm or www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Original-Equipment-GY20711/dp/B007TJXT2G. I've purchased parts from Green Farm Parts several times and always ship out quick.
Just checking price and it is $140USD for this part (the whole assembly is $400CAD)...or just follow this link to diy it for $15 czcams.com/video/FSZLPV8jmEg/video.html
Hi Erik. I am trying to replace that bearing on a JE75 but my problem is when l try to undo that 8mm Allen screw the 19 mm nut at the other end that l am holding with the socket comes loose instead ( Grrr!) Any bright ideas? Edit, l just read your reply to "good old days". That's one way l suppose!
@Blixem Great minds! That's exactly what I have just done. ( Then what happens if I ever want that nut off LOL? ) fingers crossed it just might work. Failing that I might buy/ make one of those widgets that fits in the spark plug hole that stops the piston from reaching T.D.C.
@Blixem I ended up using a piston stop. That worked but getting that bearing out of it's housing was quite a challenge. It was "Reluctant" to say the least!😬
I had the same problem of the nut on top of the engine coming loose instead of the hex bolt. I removed the round metal piece on the top of the engine for more space around the nuts and then attached a similar nut on top. I then tightened them together and then held the bottom nut with a wrench as the hex bolt was loosened and came off.
I have a 1992-1993 5 hp 14SB with the square plate clutch. I know exactly what is wrong with it now. The process to replace the bearing should be the same. Thank you for the helpful video.
Hi Steven B, I'm glad you found this video helpful. You have the old square style Ogura clutch. John Deere had replaced the Ogura clutch with a Warner Electric clutch (part# GC90017), should you end up needing a purchase a new one.
Erik Asquith Thank you again. That is the same part number I found. Probably going to work at slowly cleaning it up over the next year or so. Needs new wheels etc, going to try to paint it too. Currently everything is original from when the machine was bought. Only replacements include blade, spark plug, air filter, and recoil starter rope.
Well l got the new bearing in but when l start the engine it's still making that noise. Any idea what else the problem might be? I must admit when l removed the bearing housing l thought : " Well actually this bearing feels OK" but l changed it anyway.
@@ErikAsquith It sounds like a dying bearing really. The is a little bit of vibration too. It's not the new bearing or the way l fitted it ( l grew up on a farm so l know how to replace bearings),😉 The engine oil is clean and has no metal in it so l don't think its the crankshaft bearing. I'm quite puzzled by it. I do have a complete BBC unit from a JE 75 mower with a 'dead' engine, l might fit that and see what happens. 🤔
Erik, am l right in saying there is another bearing in the upper part of the BBC assembly? , i.e. above the one you replaced? If so maybe it's that one that's making the noise on mine. ☹️
Erik, I need to replace the drive transmission on my JX75. any pointers on doing that? how 'bout you replace yours, video it, and post for me to follow? :)
Hey evans5788, funny you should ask - I started making a video for rebuilding the entire transmission. However, I'm in need of one part before I can finish it. Are you looking for instructions on removing the the transmission and installing a new one? Or are you looking for instructions on removing, cracking open, rebuilding, and then reinstalling the transmission?
+Erik Asquith I've already purchased a new, sealed transmission (Tuff Torq). i'm going to remove the old and install the new (no rebuilding). i'm nursing a broken finger right now, will dig into this project when that heals.
Erik Asquith nope ... was waiting on you to post your video so i could follow your lead. i'm not rebuilding my old transmission, but rather replacing with a new TuffTorq transmission i bought online. i don't know how to pull the old transmission out and get the new one in.
In your case 4 or 5 good clouts with the hammer and that bearing popped out. In my case 104 clouts and that bearing came out but not without a fight! 🤣
I used a Craftsman #10 - 16mm, 5/8-in. bolt out to remove the 8mm allen head cap screw that I had rounded out when attempting to remove it off a 14SB. I have a video detailing the removal process, but I haven't had a chance to finish editing it.
Thanks, just what I needed to diagnose the clutch issue. Got the part from Amazon for $45 and am back in action. Last time a shop worked on it for same issue they charged $300!
Thank you, I was able to remove the old bearing from the lower clutch assembly yesterday. I don't own a cold chisel at the moment, so I substituted with a cheap breaker bar.
Excellent tutorial. Hopefully i willbe able to fix the rattle in that area
Wow man your way of doing this is the best way by far!Lol is locked at someone else's video and lol they took the Cole clutch out all of it .And replace the whole clutch assembly.When they may not have needed to..Just replacing the bearing like you did in this video
MrMichael48 I appreciate the positive feedback and thanks for watching!
Great video! These are STILL great mowers.
such a good lookin mower god damn. one of the best ever built far as push mowers go
When I tried to remove the bolt at the top of the crank shaft, that bolt came undone when trying to remove the bolt in the center of the clutch. Instead, I had a stop that I purchased that you screw into the spark plug hole after removing the spark plug and it stops the piston from moving up and down on the crank shaft. This method worked getting the bbc allen bolt loose whereas I could not get the clutch bolt loose without loosing the bolt at the top of the crankshaft and so the crankshaft would still turn when trying to loosen the bbc allen bolt.
I have the same luck as you.
Jim Breedlove that's what l ended up using. That bolt was damn tight too! l needed an extension tube on the Allen wrench to get it to budge
you can also use a broken drive belt and shove it into the empty spark plug hole and that will do the trick too :)
You can feed some rope into the spark plug hole to do the same thing.
Whoops, just heard the answer to my question at the end, sorry. Thanks for the great video.
heh, no problem - the video is a bit long, but fairly detailed.
Very helpful video. Need to replace the drive belt on my JX75. Got the bottom half of BBC removed as shown in your video, but I can't get the top half off so I can insert new drive belt. Any tips? Seems to be stuck on there, not even budging.
I assume the JX75 is similar to the 14SB, hoping. When I hold down the clutch handle the engine dies. I gotta see what's going on. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for your great videos. They've save me lots of money keeping my 25+ year old 14SB running. My self propelled cable that I'm buying from the local JD dealer is breaking at the handle connection after about 2 months. Are you having this problem with your JX? Any suggestions? Thanks again!
I have one of those mowers and as I'm mowing the blade comes to a stop but the motor is running fine what could be the faulty part here
Is the friction disk basically just a brake pad or is it what spins the blade because if I mow in some wet grass or get some water on the clutch it engages slow and smooth but if it’s dry it makes the mower bog alittle and Immediately engages which I find weird ?
I have a 1997 14SB that I needed to replace the whole blade brake clutch assembly. Your video was helpful but when I tried to loosen the hex bolt at the bottom of the engine by holding the nut at the top of the crankshaft, the nut broke loose and not the hex bolt. I ended up using the trick of removing the spark plug, moving the piston to the bottom of the stroke and inserting a small rope (1/4 inch) into the cylinder and filling it up with the rope. As you turn the hex bolt the piston will compress the rope until it seizes. This worked and I was able to remove the hex bolt. Just pull the rope out when you are done.
Hi jrs1955, I actually had to do the same thing on a older 14SB model. The rope worked well, but it was tedious to get enough rope pushed through the spark plug hole into the cylinder to prevent the engine from turning over. To make the job even more exciting the allen bolt stripped. I ended up using a mallet to hammer on a Craftsman Bolt-Out #10 or #11 to the stripped allen bolt round head. This worked very well to back off the stripped allen bolt, but my bolt-out is still stuck on to the head of the stripped allen bolt...
Erik Asquith All for the love of a great lawn mower. :-)
The small springs by the ball bearings in my upper broke. Anyone know where I can get just the springs?
I can replace the ball bearings (there are 3 under the cover of the blade clutch upper, I'm not talking about the bearing in the middle shown here) but can't locate the springs.
Thanks that was awesome
This is helpful. I have a quick question. My blade does not disengage when I release the safety bar (on the handle). I need to use a hammer to hit the engagement rod back into its default spot to stop the blade from engaging. I am not sure why this is happening. Any thoughts?
Clutch spring might be broken, which is what forces the clutch apart to stop the blade.
does anyone know if doing this will fix the noise problem even when the blades are not engaged, because I had that problem on my 14se and just spent $70 on a new clutch because i screwed up mine on accident so I was just wondering if this is the actual problem and if anyone has fixed the noise issue by replacing the bearing.
Are there 2 bearings are they the same size
hi there, I just picked up one of these for parts on my Husqvarna as it was cheaper than buying a new shroud and recoil, however my Husqvarna is still pulling rather hard. My lawnboy runs great however has a broken throttle cable and the blade doesn't engage. Therefore I was thinking of swapping engines between the two mowers. Do you happen to know if this is a possibility or a dumb idea all together? I really like the Husqvarna 7021 RES other than it being hard to pull for my wife and I. At first I thought it was just cause it's a 7 HP however my father in law has the same engine on his and it's way easier. Would the electric start contribute to the hard pulls? Any advice would be so appreciated as we are a one income family right now!
Jess Barrett hi check valve clearance see if that helps if too tight loosen to proper specs
Erik, what symptoms did you have which required replacing just the bearing?
Good question. I had a loud high pitch squealing noise when the blades were not engaged. In my case the BBC still appeared to function fine, but I just proactively replaced it because it sounded terrible.
I can't get he bottom hex bolt to loosen without loosening the top nut. Is there another way to keep the drive shaft from moving so I can put adequate pressure on the hex bolt?
+Gregory Gardner absolutely - you can remove the spark plug, place a screw driver in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over until the cylinder bottoms out. At this point you'll want to get a long continuous piece of rope and feed it through the spark plug opening (you may need to use a screw driver to help feed it through the spark plug hole). Once you fill up the cylinder with rope you'll be ready to remove the allen head cap screw as this will prevent the cylinder from sliding upward as the crankshaft rotates. I hope this helps and let us know your results. FYI I actually have a video of this process, but I haven't gotten around to editing it.
Found this video very helpfull Thank you for taking time to post it.To remove the centre bolt I broke the blade bolts loose but left the blade attached so I could hold on to to loosen the centre bolt My problem is I got it all apart the outer ring of the bearing stayed in the housing and the inner ring of the bearing stayed on the shaft I got the outer ring out of the housing, nut do not know how to get the in ring off the shaft.
Does anyone know the outside diameter and in side diameter of this bearing My Mower is JD 14 SB 1989 model Thank you for the help James
James Sheane I'm glad you found the video helpful. If I understand your situation correctly you'll need to cut the bearing inner ring off the shaft as shown in czcams.com/video/BIMt0WGmwxQ/video.htmlm10s.
Do you have the older and likely original Ogura clutch or newer Warner Electric clutch?
Erik Asquith 1989 Silver anniversary model bought new for my retirement years
James Sheane does the clutch look like the same clutch design in my video? If so, you need a Nachi 62052NSE sealed bearing. See czcams.com/video/ZgkbUZKbTCQ/video.htmlm52s
James Sheane plus the Dremek tool worked great Thank you again!!
Erik Asquith no it did not look the same.. I think I have an ogura clutch
This did not work well for me. After removing the bottom of the bbc, the assembly sprung apart. I had not noticed that in my assembly the bottom plate slides into the top disc plate rather than being held in place. Any suggestions?
thanks for great video. very informative. I'm trying to help my cousin with her jx75 that has a related problem. the bbc is separated and did so while her 17 yr old son was operating it. It even cause part of the aluminum deck to break off. Lucky her son was not hurt. Your video is great and easily within my skill set to fix. Wish I had same problem but the 8mm hex bolt is broken deeply inside the shaft. He must have hit something hard or maybe it is just aging results (1998). Any pointers on getting the bolt out. My hopes are that it is meant to shear and can be easily removed.
anniversary4 I'm glad to hear no one was hurt. However, it sounds like you may have some fun trying to remove that broken bolt . You can try using the screw extractor and/or a flat head screw driver to hammer a groove and then try to turn it out (if this were a brass bolt it would be easy to hammer a groove, but I'm not sure it will work with a hardened bolt). If neither of those options work, you can try very carefully drilling out the bolt without damaging the threads. If you happen to damage the threads, just be sure you drill the hole straight - you can use a Heli-Coil thread repair kit.
Erik Asquith Thanks Erik
I run a small engine repair shop. I get these old mowers in my shop every now and then. Everybody loves these mowers but they hate the blade clutch and the cost to replace them. I replace the blade clutch with a blade adapter so they never have to worry about it again.
wcjcnc I agree that the blade break clutch, followed by the transmission on these mowers are the two weak points. What do you use for a blade adapter? Can you provide a link or make and model number? I assume the blade adapter makes it so the blade always spins when the engine is running?
Erik Asquith Erik, did you ever get a link or make and model number for the blade adapter?
ronald stratton unfortunately no, not yet. Hopefully wcjcnc will share the details of the blade adapter that he installs.
Thanks for your help. I found a place on line that sells them for about $20. Great video BTW..........
Part #M9320
Hey Erik
Any idea how the BBC would stop the mower from pull starting? I removed mine and was finically able to pull start it after 2yrs.
The bearing seems to spin freely in my hand.
The clutch pad maybe?
Tim Taylor is the spring broken?
Didnt look like it, but it looked very rusty.
I ended up replacing just the lower portion of the clutch, and its starts right up now. So I assume the spring had something to do with it. Not 100% though.
Thanks for all the JX75 videos!
@@timtaylor4687 the red material is the clutch material.. if its worn it will slip
Question: My clutch disengages fine, however when I engage the blade, it doesn't seem to engage properly. It slips, so my blade doesn't cut well, goes over grass without cutting. Thoughts on what part of the clutch is causing this problem? I adjust the cable but that doesn't seem to help.
I have the same problem do you have any answers yet on what is causing it cheers
Rust seems to be the enemy. Changed the clutch and it was fine. Getting that off was difficult though. An air wrench to "break" the bolt free was key. It's a shame because this mower, while robust, has always been a troublesome one with minor problems.
+Parker Xavier did you replace the whole clutch or just the bottom half thanks for your reply Steve
Just the bottom half.
Follow this link for a low cost diy...
czcams.com/video/FSZLPV8jmEg/video.html
Do you know if this would be the same procedure to remove and replace the entire BBC unit on a "silver" 14SB ?
Yes, this video would also apply to the 14SB and 14SE models.
You can by pass with a 14st blade adpter but good luck getting the clutch assembly off the shaft. I had to use an air chisel.
The friction material is what makes the blade spin... without it the blade wont spin..
I had a John Deere JX75 with a blade brake clutch that would not disengage and made the engines pull rope very hard to pull. What would the problem be?
Brian Mott
Same issue here. I just removed my BBC and it starts up just fine.
I don’t think it’s the bearing like in the video, but I’m trying to figure it out now
There is a upper bearing also. When it went I couldn't start mine.
The snap ring that holds the upper part together
@Dan Rezac first off you'll want to change Google+ settings so that 'Anyone' can comment on your public posts.
Have you disconnected the spark plug boot, tilting your mower on it's side (carburetor up), and tried spinning the blade by hand with and without the clutch engaged? I would check to make sure the bolt going through the clutch arm isn't broken, the spring in the bottom half of the clutch isn't broken, and the clutch arms are intact and not broken. You'll also want to make sure the clutch cable is not broken and is properly connected to the clutch arm. You'll also want to check the tension on the clutch cable as it may just need to be adjusted tighter.
i did as you said and THE TOP BOLT CAME LOOSE!
+thegood olddays you can remove the spark plug, place a screw driver in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over until the cylinder bottoms out. At this point you'll want to get a long continuous piece of rope and feed it through the spark plug opening (you may need to use a screw driver to help feed it through the spark plug hole). Once you fill up the cylinder with rope you'll be ready to remove the allen head cap screw as this will prevent the cylinder from sliding upward as the crankshaft rotates. I hope this helps and let us know your results. FYI I actually have a video of this process, but I haven't gotten around to editing it.
It is called a Cold Chisel.
Update. Well, turns out on mine the blade brake clutch was on it's way out. Anyway, I priced a new genuine JD BBC, then l got up of the floor ( A big hole in £200 even from eBay😲 Anyway thinking it over very carefully l decided to sell my mower and l bought myself a new Stihl. I like JD mowers but 2 things put me off buying another. (1) l have heard the quality of the newer ones ain't so good compared to the older models . (2) Apparently they aren't making ( Or should that be 'marketing' as the newer ones weren't actually made by JD) Walk behind mowers any more, so no doubt spares will be increasingly more difficult to obtain and thus more expensive.
Does anyone know where I could find a replacement friction disc? Or do need replace the entire blade brake clutch? Thanks
+Matt Seipel you do not need to replace the entire BBC. However, just make sure the upper half of the BBC is still in good shape so you don't have to do the job twice. You can purchase just the bottom half of the BBC with the friction disc from www.greenfarmparts.com/John-Deere-Clutch-GY20711-p/gy20711.htm or www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Original-Equipment-GY20711/dp/B007TJXT2G. I've purchased parts from Green Farm Parts several times and always ship out quick.
Thank you for your quick response. This is exactly what I'm needing.
Just checking price and it is $140USD for this part (the whole assembly is $400CAD)...or just follow this link to diy it for $15
czcams.com/video/FSZLPV8jmEg/video.html
Hi Erik. I am trying to replace that bearing on a JE75 but my problem is when l try to undo that 8mm Allen screw the 19 mm nut at the other end that l am holding with the socket comes loose instead ( Grrr!) Any bright ideas?
Edit, l just read your reply to "good old days". That's one way l suppose!
@Blixem Great minds! That's exactly what I have just done. ( Then what happens if I ever want that nut off LOL? ) fingers crossed it just might work. Failing that I might buy/ make one of those widgets that fits in the spark plug hole that stops the piston from reaching T.D.C.
@Blixem I ended up using a piston stop. That worked but getting that bearing out of it's housing was quite a challenge. It was "Reluctant" to say the least!😬
Put the blade back on then engage clutch, block the blad from moving with a block of wood, disconnect plug, then loosen the hex nut.
I had the same problem of the nut on top of the engine coming loose instead of the hex bolt. I removed the round metal piece on the top of the engine for more space around the nuts and then attached a similar nut on top. I then tightened them together and then held the bottom nut with a wrench as the hex bolt was loosened and came off.
I have a 1992-1993 5 hp 14SB with the square plate clutch. I know exactly what is wrong with it now. The process to replace the bearing should be the same. Thank you for the helpful video.
Hi Steven B, I'm glad you found this video helpful. You have the old square style Ogura clutch. John Deere had replaced the Ogura clutch with a Warner Electric clutch (part# GC90017), should you end up needing a purchase a new one.
Erik Asquith Thank you again. That is the same part number I found. Probably going to work at slowly cleaning it up over the next year or so. Needs new wheels etc, going to try to paint it too. Currently everything is original from when the machine was bought. Only replacements include blade, spark plug, air filter, and recoil starter rope.
Its an allen wrench. locktite on the allen head cap screw.
waiting4aliens good catch. I totally overlooked that - thanks.
Well l got the new bearing in but when l start the engine it's still making that noise. Any idea what else the problem might be? I must admit when l removed the bearing housing l thought : " Well actually this bearing feels OK" but l changed it anyway.
Mackeson3 what type of noise are you still hearing? Could you post a video of noise on CZcams?
@@ErikAsquith It sounds like a dying bearing really. The is a little bit of vibration too. It's not the new bearing or the way l fitted it ( l grew up on a farm so l know how to replace bearings),😉 The engine oil is clean and has no metal in it so l don't think its the crankshaft bearing. I'm quite puzzled by it. I do have a complete BBC unit from a JE 75 mower with a 'dead' engine, l might fit that and see what happens. 🤔
Erik, am l right in saying there is another bearing in the upper part of the BBC assembly? , i.e. above the one you replaced? If so maybe it's that one that's making the noise on mine. ☹️
I have a question - it is a centrifugal cluch ?????
mikkei no
My 14SB Is different from this clutch yours is Late Model Warner BBC Clutch mine is the older style Model Ogura BBC
replacing a blade brake on a John Deere 100 l
Erik, I need to replace the drive transmission on my JX75. any pointers on doing that? how 'bout you replace yours, video it, and post for me to follow? :)
Hey evans5788, funny you should ask - I started making a video for rebuilding the entire transmission. However, I'm in need of one part before I can finish it. Are you looking for instructions on removing the the transmission and installing a new one? Or are you looking for instructions on removing, cracking open, rebuilding, and then reinstalling the transmission?
+Erik Asquith I've already purchased a new, sealed transmission (Tuff Torq). i'm going to remove the old and install the new (no rebuilding). i'm nursing a broken finger right now, will dig into this project when that heals.
evans5788 did you ever end up installing the new transmission? If yes, how did it go?
Erik Asquith nope ... was waiting on you to post your video so i could follow your lead. i'm not rebuilding my old transmission, but rather replacing with a new TuffTorq transmission i bought online. i don't know how to pull the old transmission out and get the new one in.
evans5788 whawhatw aye ypakinh for the $x45.
In your case 4 or 5 good clouts with the hammer and that bearing popped out. In my case 104 clouts and that bearing came out but not without a fight! 🤣
Any tips for someone who stripped the 8mm bottom hex bolt? :)
Drill it out.
I used a Craftsman #10 - 16mm, 5/8-in. bolt out to remove the 8mm allen head cap screw that I had rounded out when attempting to remove it off a 14SB. I have a video detailing the removal process, but I haven't had a chance to finish editing it.