Finishing Techniques for 3D Printed Gloomhaven Trackers
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- This is the third and final deep-dive video in my custom Gloomhaven tracker project. In this episode, I experiment with a variety of finishing techniques: dry brushing, gel plate stamping, rub-n-buff, gold leaf and gilding flakes. I share both my successes and failures, and some of the final results are quite nice!
My wife and I always enjoy learning with you Laser Grandma
And I always enjoy hearing from you, thank you!
Thank you for the series. This was really helpfull!
Thank you, Sandra, I appreciate you letting me know it is helpful!
Chaotic is a good word for the process. My first gold leaf attempt was a fail, but someday I'll revisit it. Great job as always.
Thanks, Randolph! Definitely give gold leaf another try someday, it's fun when it works...
The stamping really turns out great! I like the overlap. For drybrushing do you know if it would benefit from being primed first?
The gold leaf ones look fancy too!
Great video!
Thanks Evan! Priming is a good question. Would you prime the whole piece with an airbrush? Or could you apply primer to just the design somehow?
I knew that 'cured' print resin is still not fully cured, or safe without sealant, and will cause problems if you use platinum-based silicone on it but I did not expect the gold-leaf to stick to everything. I wonder if applying an acrylic coat wash in either matte or gloss would work to inhibit the leaf attraction where there is no sizing?
Rose, thinking out of the box again! I really want the ability to only do the raised design, as an option, so I will check this out in a future project. BTW, the pre-approved comment worked beautifully. I was notified without even opening the CZcams app!!
@@GreylightMay So the current project I am learning about deals with 3d prints and molding. Normally you need a coat, typically 2 dunk and drys in a product called Inhibit-X, to protect the silicone for the curing process if it is platinum-based. This will stop the SLA Resin (I think that is what type this is) from impeding the mold silicone and resin molecules from bonding together/inhibiting each other.
A few makers are able to mold their projects without a coat by letting their prints cure for weeks to months. A set and forget kind of thing. This may not work for you, but to me, this means that molecule curing takes a lot longer than 1 or 2 cycles in the Anycubic machine. So if you have smaller prints (to not waste resin) or create texture test plates it could be an interesting experience to see how 'cured' the resin will need to be before the Gold Leaf doesn't stick without sizing.
But this is why I think a wash of matte coating on the dial will provide a barrier so the leaf doesn't get on everything. The only problem that then pops up is gold leaf may bond with the acrylic or enamel paint base.
Ahh science, solves problems and creates more.
@@RoseKindred Rose, this is really helpful because I have a molding project on my list to do. 3D printing is a great way to make models for molds, as a means for higher production. I will look for Inhibit-x to test it for both applications!
@@GreylightMay Well, good luck. Hope I helped a little. Inhibit-X is costly but the bottle lasts a long time according to resin molders. Essentially dip or paint on, let air dry, and repeat 1 or 2 times. The remaining liquid can be put back into the large container without fine-mesh straining, provided the part(s) were relatively clean.
I look forward to seeing what you make next.
@@RoseKindred yes, I found it online and it is not cheap, but I think definitely worth checking out. I can use some of that money I saved by not going anywhere for a year now!