Modulus Arms review
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- čas přidán 16. 11. 2019
- Overview of Modulus Arms Router Jig Extreme
Thoughts on jig
Comparison to 5D Tactical jig
Clip of operation
Ordered from:
www.modulusarms.com/
video comparing finish with or without cutting fluid
• Comparison with differ...
video with jig set up tips
• Jig set up and tips Mo...
Best video out there keep making them want to see how they turn out.
Very good video, breakdown is excellent
Very helpful video
You need to make small clockwise circles as you do your milling.
it does recommend small clockwise circles, however I thought I would try it different ways to see how well it cuts in the interest of trying to cover questions that others might have. When cutting clockwise, it does cut much better than counter and has a far less of a tendency to jump. I have milled several 15 and 10 lowers so far and only mill clockwise.
Fred Stuckey back in High School I spent three years in a machine shop class but that was way before computers and CNC machines!
Cutting oil saves on drill bits. But also remember, you can always sharpen drill bits!
Did you use any coolant while milling?
I tries not using any at first. Finish was not the best and kind of rough. I then started spraying a few shots of WD-40 between passes. It is easier to spray into cavity with router on the guide than cutting fluid. This made the finish much smoother. Only drawback is that instead of the chips flying out, they tend to clump together and stick in cavity. It doesnt seem to affect the mill any by having chip clumps. I made a seperate video showing the finish with and without using fluid.
What version speed mill do i get for the version that’s on there website please please respond I need help
Per the chart on their site it would be speedmill #3 for the Makita router. On the speedmill description on Modulus website scroll down and it will give you a list.
Both 5D Tactical and Modulus Jig.. You are not going to go wrong with either one. What's you color preference?? lol.. That's pretty much what it comes down to, tbh.
Oh, and about painting the markers and lettering on the Top Plate. I have some White fine-point paint marker that works awesome for coloring those areas that you used.. umm, fingernail polish on. But hey.. I guess it worked!
On the surface it looks like just a color difference, however the design of the Modulus is better than the 5D. If you plan on only doing ar15 lowers it wont matter but the dual block on the Modulus is much better since you do not need to change it out to do ar10's. It is also one less part that can get lost and as I touched on in the review, the parts are cheaper to replace on the Modulus. Modulus arms solution for making it modular is much more elegant.
Este é bom
muito obrigado
drill press or?
No drill press is required. Part K keeps your standard drill in the proper orientation. I have used cordless drills and they work, just slower than a corded. Cheapest corded drill from harbor freight or menards is 10-20 bucks and they work just fine.
LOL, wife hiding her fingernail polish from you. A mild joke, but heck, even corny jokes need told.
Also, just FYI, those screws are NOT Phillips head screws, though your screwdrivers may still be Phillips. I'm going to guess that the crosshead screws are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard), and if you had/used JIS screwdrivers, you'd get them tighter and would not torque out the heads that often if careful.
JIS cross head is more straight walled in both the screw head and the driver, which allows for a higher torque. Phillips cross head has a much more pronounce wedge shape, which is designed to prevent over-torquing the fasteners.
Most screws nowadays you'll find are using the JIS standard, while we're still mostly able to buy Phillips drivers more easily here in the US.
BIG DESIGN FLAWS!!!! Beware that this router jig & the 5D Tactical Pro router jig cuts the trigger way oversize. These cut the trigger slot .380 wide X .700 long. The trigger slot should be per Mil-Spec .312 wide by about .550 long. The trigger slot only needs to be wide & long enough for the trigger to fit into with no gaps between the trigger & the trigger slot. Also, the drill bushings are cheap & allow a lot of wobble if using a hand drill. Plus the end mill wears out after the first use because it made out of high speed steel instead of carbide.
I don't see how any of the things you mentioned are show stoppers in my opinion. Sure the trigger slot is oversized. Unless you are running your gun through the mud, it is not a problem and even if it was mil spec crap would get in. If it is that big of an issue you could just not mill it to the amount the guide allows. The bushings can wear out, however you can press new ones in. Using hand drill it can feel as though there may be a slight wobble however I have not had any issues upon assembly. If bushings were exact size of the bit it would size in bushing. As far as the end mill is concerned, I have milled quite a few on same mill. It may not feel as sharp as out of the box but still cuts very well. At 27 bucks for the tool, even if you had to change it every lower, you would still be into the lower for less money than buying a finished lower from a gun shop. At an investment of about 300 bucks this tool does it's job very well. In order to get the perfection you are wanting you would need to spend thousands in tooling.
@@NUCLEARFRED1 Actually the trigger slot dimensions are very important for keeping out out dirt & debris out of the trigger group pocket. With a oversize trigger slot a lot of dirt, mud, & debris is allowed to enter the fire control group pocket. The AR15 does not like dirt or other debris into the the fire control group pocket. We had the same issue with all the M16-A2 rifles I had in the Marine Corps & the M16-A2 I bought when I was discharged from the Marine Corps.
The bushings are just plain steel when they should be at least Rockwell 61 hardened steel bushings or better yet carbide bushing with heads . The end mill is a cheap high speed steel end mill when it should be a plain carbide or a Zrn, TiN, or TiaN coated carbide end mill for longer life before needing to be reground.
Of course, this depends on the surface finish you want to maintain. i prefer to maintain at least a 63 surface finish. The drills should be TiN, ZrN. or TiaN coated drills for longer life before needing to be reground. Also , the drills need to be stub length for better stability in the cheap drill bushings.
I have been machining for over 30 years & 20 years making rotating parts for aircraft engines so I know all about end mills & proper machining methods. We machined Inconel 718, Renee 88, Renee 65, & Titanium T6 & T17 for our parts so Aluminum 7075 T6 is a no brainier to machine. Aluminum dulls the cutting edge of the drills & end mills very rapidly.
Actually, a Mil-Spec AR 15 stripped lower receiver would cost less then half of the cost of the 5D Tactical or Modulus Arms Extreme router jigs. more than likely 1/3 the cost of the above mentioned router jigs.
@@donaldhollingsworth3875 no doubt you have experience machining, however a these jigs are a cheap alternative to expensive equipment and make a much nicer finish than the drilling a bazillion holes method. I buy good quality 80's when I find them for about 30 bucks. Replacement end mills from 5d or modulus are about 27. All in less than 60 bucks using new mill Everytime. A lower at a gun shop is 65 or so. It is not like the end mill is proprietary or a special size. If you wanted you could buy a higher quality but and swap it into the holder. The same goes for the bushings. My point is that for the average person it is not as bad as you were making it out to be.
@@NUCLEARFRED1 To make the design at the very start would have cost mere pennies to do. But for the cost ($289.00 the router jig & $75.00 for the tooling when first buying this router jig) is too expensive to have these very apparent & easily fixed design flaws.
@@donaldhollingsworth3875 Do you crawl around prone through mud with your guns?
I'd like to ask you a question and hopefully get a straight and to the point answer here on your channel instead of the double talk you gave me in an email response to the same question. Long before 80% Polymers got raised I asked you and several others this. What do you have in place to protect us, your customers from being raised because of the records you keep in house of all your customers purchases??? No, the 80%'s don't have serial numbers. But you and all the ones that sell them have records with our names, phone numbers and email addresses. If the ATF breaks down your door are they going to get our records like they did at 80% Polymers. Do you have a fail safe file deletion protocol in place to protect us that have supported you. Or are you going to just feed us to the wolves like 80% Polymers did?? And the reason I say it that way is because you and I and everyone out there knows damn good and well that if they take your records that is just as good or maybe even better that the all gun registration the new jerk wants in place. So are you truly a honest to goodness 2A supporter or is it all about the money like 80% Polymers. Say want you want about my attitude but I've been asking all of you this same question for months and I've either been ignored or considered some nut. Well, how much of a nut am I now. What I was so worried about has happened and it ain't over baby. It's just going to get worse. So, are you going to put a file deletion protocol in place or tell us a lie and sell us out when they break down your front AND back doors?? Months ago your response was "we would never intentionally give out your information " what kind of an answer is that. I'm sure 80% Polymers didn't drive over to the ATF and say, here you go. Now go get these people, you now know everyone that has purchased an 80% from us. So, I'd love to hear an honest non-double talk political answer that makes sense and isn't full of crap. And I'd love to hear from others out there , what do all you 80%er's think? Doesn't that scare you in the least??
Valid question. I too am concerned. Pretty sure at this point I'm fucked either way. If you get a response from them please comment back.
@@NUCLEARFRED1 I've emailed them as well as every other 80% company out there and the only one that has ever given me a response was 5D and it was worse than a stupid response. We would never give out you information freely or intentionally. What kind of an answer was that. Are they saying that 80% Polymers paid the ATF a visit and said "here you go, all our customer file. Merry Christmas ". Like I said, a stupid answer. So I figured it was time to post the issue in a place they can not delete it or keep it hidden. Tired of everyone ignoring my concerns. Not a damn one of them has any problem sending out emails telling everyone to buy buy buy. How about telling us how screwed we are because they talk a nice talk but so far I haven't seen any indication that they won't sell everyone out to save their own asses. I guess time will tell.
@@NUCLEARFRED1 I've never received a response from any of the 80% lowers companies. Don't get me wrong, I like the 80% lower builds, I think it's a great way to really learn about your firearm as well as just having some good old fashioned fun of building something that has a purpose. My issue is the hypocrisy of it all and the lie of it being non traceable. For years I worked in a special branch of Law Enforcement and I personally believe that every one in this country "baring violent crime offenders and crimes against children offenders" should have a firearm or 2 or however many they want. And I don't believe in the Miranda Rights, they have screwed up more solid cases than people will ever know. But anyway, getting off track. It just angers me that these 80% sellers go on about untraceable and safe from "the law" confiscation but that's a lie. Those sellers have every bit of information about you that traces that lower to each and every buyer unless you purchased it in person and paid cash. And even then some places are asking for ID. Either way it's just wrong that they insist on lying to sell their product. They are not less money, they are not as precisely finished and good luck getting a perfectly matched upper/lower set as for the color shade. It's fun, it's a great learning tool and there is always a great sense of pride in building from an 80% when you've done a great job. I have both regular and 80%'s and as I am extremely anal about perfection my 80's are just as nice as the regulars minus the anodizing on the inside of the well. So, bottom line. They are not any less registered than an ffl lower because there is a record and path to the buyer. So just stop selling the lie and tell the truth. It's fun, it's cool but its otherwise no different than a regular one except a lot more money for something that will never be 100% like factory lowers.
DOJ ATF law: _"You have to purchase through an FFL to buy an AR lower!"_
2nd Amendment: _"Okay, we'll just make it so people can easily build their own, and if you keep being tyrants, we'll design a 0% jig."_