I don't like to use any gaskets/sealer on the intake manifold gaskets, except a SMALL amount of silicone around the water ports, and a large bead on the china walls.
Carb setup. I didn't plug anything prior on this. If I needed a vac line, I'd throw in a port, if it's not needed for carb'd application, I plugged em. Sorry if that sounds short, just and old video and I honestly don't recall. I plugged a lot of the holes on this one for my application. Thanks for watching!
@WrenchingWrecked I'm taking about the ports in the cylinder heads. They're center and the intake has ports to them. Old oem ford manifolds have a slot for the exhaust gases going to the egr plate.
Exhaust gasses to heat the plenum under the intake manifold, for better fuel atomization. Some people block them off with a small piece of tin to prevent vapor lock. No danger in leaving them open. The new Intake Manifold simply has no provision for allowing the gasses to re-enter the intake air via the carburetor (the small rectangular hole next to the main carburetor hole on your original intake manifold).
Do not follow these directions. Sorry bro but you’re giving bad advice. There is a specific order to tighten down the manifold bolts and they need to be torqued to a specific ftlb in two stages.
I agree with you 100%. They should be torqued in sequence. If never having done this before I would strongly recommend using a torque wrench and following the appropriate torque sequence. I've removed and installed several intakes on these small blocks and have never had leaks/warpage problems. I have a very good feel for the actual torque values having torqued them in the past. If you are not familiar with torque specs or are doing this for the first time, torque evenly to a lower number 15-18 lb ft (if memory serves)., then up to the full value that is included with your intake/hardware. Different intakes/hardware combos/manufacturers have different torque specs.
It’s easier/best practice to just pull the dizzy. Lay out 2-3 reference marks to make it easy on yourself first if your worried about timing. I’ve never physically tried to pull/swap manifolds without pulling the distributor so I can’t confirm or deny.
Use stud kits on intake manifold, valve covers and oil pan. Never hassle with gaskits moving arond again
Excellent video..will come in handy when doing same installation..down under.
Glad it was of some use to someone. Thanks for watching! Good luck with the build!
What kind of water inlet did you use my old one was too small
I don't remember exactly. I think it was just an off the shelf parts store one. Dorman maybe?
Can I use copper gasket spray on these gaskets?
I don't like to use any gaskets/sealer on the intake manifold gaskets, except a SMALL amount of silicone around the water ports, and a large bead on the china walls.
The center egr ports are open. Is that manifold a non egr? And if so, where do the exhaust gases go?
Carb setup. I didn't plug anything prior on this. If I needed a vac line, I'd throw in a port, if it's not needed for carb'd application, I plugged em. Sorry if that sounds short, just and old video and I honestly don't recall. I plugged a lot of the holes on this one for my application. Thanks for watching!
@WrenchingWrecked I'm taking about the ports in the cylinder heads. They're center and the intake has ports to them. Old oem ford manifolds have a slot for the exhaust gases going to the egr plate.
Exhaust gasses to heat the plenum under the intake manifold, for better fuel atomization. Some people block them off with a small piece of tin to prevent vapor lock. No danger in leaving them open. The new Intake Manifold simply has no provision for allowing the gasses to re-enter the intake air via the carburetor (the small rectangular hole next to the main carburetor hole on your original intake manifold).
Do not follow these directions. Sorry bro but you’re giving bad advice. There is a specific order to tighten down the manifold bolts and they need to be torqued to a specific ftlb in two stages.
I agree with you 100%. They should be torqued in sequence. If never having done this before I would strongly recommend using a torque wrench and following the appropriate torque sequence. I've removed and installed several intakes on these small blocks and have never had leaks/warpage problems. I have a very good feel for the actual torque values having torqued them in the past. If you are not familiar with torque specs or are doing this for the first time, torque evenly to a lower number 15-18 lb ft (if memory serves)., then up to the full value that is included with your intake/hardware. Different intakes/hardware combos/manufacturers have different torque specs.
Lol its like 20lb on that intake i think
Oh well, it seems tight.... Obviously there's specs to check and setup, but do enough and you get a feel.
Can I do this without removing my distributor
It’s easier/best practice to just pull the dizzy. Lay out 2-3 reference marks to make it easy on yourself first if your worried about timing. I’ve never physically tried to pull/swap manifolds without pulling the distributor so I can’t confirm or deny.
Yes, but hard to do so without damaging the silicone bead on the front wall.