5 Most Common Mistakes in Shingle Roofing
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- čas přidán 29. 01. 2016
- This video details the five most common mistakes when installing asphalt shingles. If you're attempting to replace or repair your roof, make sure you don't make these mistakes! Go now to www.RoofingIntelligence.com to get the entire multi-part video series with all the information you'll need to install a shingle roof yourself. This video series is available to stream immediately online or to purchase as a DVD.
The most common mistakes include: putting the nails in the wrong place, using shingles on a flat or low slope roof, poor pipe flashing, using the incorrect overhang, and racking architectural shingles.
Chris is a professional roofer from Athens, Georgia and has created RoofingIntelligence.com to help homeowners and other roofers install their roofs easily and correctly. - Jak na to + styl
Would you recommend applying waterproof coating on the underlying plywood? Under the ice and water sheet? Also, how about top coating the asphalt shingles? Many thanks for the video.
I've been a builder for many years and have seen quite a fair bit of sheds. The plans in ryan's package czcams.com/users/postUgkxB7IXYxLzb_Ichhe45zM3Im5xfEiSp9vB have some of the nicest looking sheds i've seen in a while.
Thank you for your video question please can you install an overlay, composition over a wet roof..
No need to be dry
Nice job - your videos are great. Do you have a video on replacing flashing?
I learned a lot from this video. Many thanks!!
Good evening sir
Thank you for demonstration & it will help me a lot you are doing job,keep up your demonstration tutorial thank you,
Thank you for your reply, Robert B.
If you needed a show and tell approach did you look at his website ( at end of video )?
thank you for this video. Very insightful.. Ill check out your others...
Helpful Video - I think some aspects of roofing should be common sense. straight rows flat nails (not under/over driven), reading the instructions on the shingles for nail placement and overlap...
I would not watch this video and then attempt to lay a roof. But there are many in depth videos on that topic and this is not intended for that.
Thanks for publishing this video
Who reads the instructions?
For a low slope patio cover, (.5" per foot) what is the best method for adhering fiber reinforce rolled roofing to the drip edge. The mastic I used previously let loose after a number of years, causing rain water to wick back and then under the drip edge.
Asphalt primer
This video was very helpful.
My roofing was 3 1/2 + 12 on shingle, two ply felt. Never leakie
JedX. 4 nails in the shingle itself. The shingle above it gets 4 also. If placed right they will be in the top of the one below it. Hence 8 nails a shilgle
could you please tell me which camera you use ?
I've been roofing since 1977 and inspected literally over 20,000 roofs.
The biggest mistake is lack of experience and training.
Roofers over expose shingles. Set the compressor to high and "sink" the nails. They face nail the ridge. Install valleys incorrectly. And don't seem to know how to follow a straight line.
The craziest thing I see is some Homeowner and he's kid trying to figure out how to put up shingles without any experience or know-how.
By the way, a "Class A" shingle is only "Class A" to the UL tested slope of the manufacturer s shingle. I love it when I read some Proposal where the Contractor is telling his Client he's selling them a "Class A" roof on a 12/12 roof.
Class A refers to the fire rating, typically by UL laboratory. It is not a "quality" label.
Dang it man!!! I'm just an amateur trying to figure out how to shingle a simple A frame shed lol.
@Fast Internet And the town is still talking about the quality.
@Fast Internet Back in the early 90s I helped a friend do a re-roof. The house was 3 stories and short attic with a very steep pitch. I could see the whole town from up there, it was beautiful. We were all tied off, and working with a friend pro roofer. Another friend dropped by with one of the early videocams for consumers. We thought he was going to help but all he did was film, make jokes to the camera and annoy the heck out of everybody. I finally said lets make something memorable. I tied the camera to a long rope. I had him act like he was filming me work and he was at the edge of the roof. I yelled out his name as he screamed swung the camera around. CUT I then threw it off the roof with it filming and him screaming at the ground from up there. Stopped the rope as it hit some bushes, and let camera lay to the ground. CUT. I had him go down, stop the camera from filming, rewound to just when it hit the bushes and stop on the ground. He started the camera, fake fell just in front off it, groaning, making dramatic faces and us yelling down to him if he was OK. It was great and fooled everyone who later saw it. It was all old school trickery with just the camera and a rope. I’d forgotten about that until you mentioned being tied off.
Thanks for the video! I'm re-roofing a dog house & have never done roofing before. What is the purpose of neoprene washers on *some* roofing nails, & are they useful - or a bad idea - when putting asphalt shingles onto plywood decking?
Also, I plan on putting a dab of silicone all-weather sealant over each galvanized, ribbed nail as I nail them in. Is that a good idea? Overkill?
Thank you in advance for your answers.
WWZenaDo just curious but how did it go?
way overkill. it's a doghouse. apply the shingles properly and there's no need for anything extra. it ain't rocket-science.
Dog house?, Use aluminum and get her done
4:09 Short section of my parents' roof had shingles that were basically flush with the drip edge (no overhang) causing rain water to curl under instead of run off into the eave trough.
Wayland Jennings ehhh sounds like it was applied wrong. Maybe missing starter strip
Poor nailing patterns are the most common mistake that I see, causing blown off shingles. But the most damaging mistake that I see is improper drip edge install. The drip edge should never be tight to the frieze board but should have about a 3/16" distance between the frieze and drip edge, if not then the water can wick against the frieze and fascia as well inevitably causing rot. This is guaranteed to happen. Another by-product of this is 'staining' of the frieze and fascia from the run off of the shingles. And when you start removing frieze and fascia you will discover that the roofers nailed into the frieze and fascia as well as adhering ice and water shield to the tops of them making removal that much more difficult.
hello question about a 2nd roof, I have a 200sq ft area around my A/C package unit on my roof the rest is tile, I am wanting to do a 2nd layer of composition shingles on top of my old ones around my A/C unit, should I use underlayment?? I know in my area you can have 2 layers and be in code. thanks for your help
Never double layer
This is really good video to help people's .do your need permit to repair the roof
This is a good video showing some basic mistakes. I like it!
How are the shingle seams more likely to crack when installed using the rack technique rather then a stair step technique? Give me one good/realistic reason.
Good overview. Thanks
i like to use little tar on threads and then top of a stainless steel cap head screws to hold flashing down. those seals over time dry out. stailess never rust out.
Hi,
I have asphalt shingles and I just installed easyon gutter guards. some areas I have to lift them off to slide the gutter guards on, Did I make a mistake? DId I ruin my roof?
Mijin Choe no. Come back in a few months, or after a hot day. Check if the shingles resealed. If they did then you fine. If not then go buy a tube or 2 of Henry’s cualking, or shit even liquid nails will do and put a squirt under any shingle that didn’t reseal.
My parents just had a roof replaced, when I look at part of the roof the shingles are slightly buckled in several places, they are saying that they will "lay down eventually". Material was GAF, is this true? confused
Yes once the sun/heat get to them they will lay and stick.
You're a giant!
MastercapeRS lmao stop it 😂
I have an old house and the roof is not plywood it is planks I guess you call it shiplap but there are gaps (by the way I'm a girl )I don't know all the technology ..
But I'm trying to do a re-roof..
can I use regular felt 30 weight .. under composition asfalt.shingle or will it leak? Thanx
Glad this video popped up on my CZcams recommended list... now I TOO am a roofing EXPERT!!! :D
Would have liked to have seen #5 demonstrated.
How can you measure the pitch of the roof and if it is lower then 2/12 pitch what do you recommend for that type of roof?
ladybugcdl put a tape on the peak, let it out 12 inches and keep it level. now at the q2 inch Mark measure down to the roof. if the end of the first tape measure is 4 inches off of the roof your pitch is a 4/12.
Thank you!
+ladybugcdl I recommend a Durolast roof or something similar.
Double over lap the paper all thw way up and caulk the drip and gable as well as everything on the roof to go around thats what helgason did when I worked there and ot worked for them for over 35 years in saskatchewan.
SIR... how can i place them on flat roofs... can u please tell me a solution..
Hello, so are you suggesting not to shingle an octagonal roof?
I hear what you said, but not seeing it done, garners many questions. Let me tell you what I have gone through on roof leaks recently.
First; ALL the leaks were under the pipe flashing. The roofing contractors I tried, only made it worse. So I began to watch MANY of these type of videos on fixing leaks in roofs to see if I could do it myself.
After trying to understand what is going on; I found that most of ALL the leaks, came from the nails at the bottom of the flashing; and the rubber boot on the pipes. So I did some more research and I found out; that one should NOT use nails on ANY part of the exposed flashing. Caulking on nail heads WILL crack in time and thus a leak automatically. Not sure about those special screws with gaskets that you showed. However...
Best to use NO fasteners on the bottom of the flashing, since that is where most of the leaks occur. Rather SEAL it as you seal the bottom of the shingles. THAT is the secret I do believe.
Finally and MOST importantly: NEVER use cheap" pipe flashes". Buy the best out there. And there is one. It is "Lifetime Tool Ultimate Pipe Flashes":
czcams.com/video/pjXA9gSCQQ8/video.html
Note: I do NOT work for this company. I have NO connection to it. But my deep researches leads me to believe that it is truly THE best. Time will tell. EXPENSIVE though, but worth it.
If you notice the punched holes for nails, are ONLY where the shingles cover up the flashing. That tells me that the manufacturer does NOT want us to drive nails or screws through it. I could be wrong, but I don't think so. For whatever it's worth.
I'll never do my pipe boots the same again. I like to match colors with the screw head and my shudders now when I do work. Thanks bud for the advice.
We’ve converted many rock roofs, 2/12” pitch, to composition but we use 2 layers of #30 astm felt NOT synthetic & Line all valleys with 3’ wide Peel & Stick.,However Certainteed Landmark TL & Presidential TL should be over 4/12..
Great videos
Can anyone out there tell me the best way to replace existing gable flashing that is in a high wind/rain coastal area in Southern Oregon and (possibly)where I can buy 316L stainless drip edge?
Comp roof!
So on the rake edge you want to stay a few inches in and do not nail thru the drip edge?
Correct.
Great video! You will be putting us ou of a job! : )
thank you so much for this video!!
When I get shingles, the back side comes with cellophane over the tar. Do you peel it off or just leave it there?
I’ve never see an answer to that question. I’m neither a contractor nor a roofer so I have no idea. My guess is that you leave it. It would take forever to peel off all of that cellophane on an entire roof. Maybe it melts off in the heat?
I just ran into that recently on ridge vent shingles. The packaging did say to leave it on.
It's to keep the shingles from sticking together while in the package. Leave it on.
I'm a professional roofer.
If you use more than 4 nails per shingle, how do you avoid having nails 2" from underneath each joint, which will rust & leave holes.
J Lee you didn’t get his point.
Every single shingle manufacture in the USA requires 8 nails per shingle. Can you name one that doesn’t?
What your misunderstanding is that you only put 4 nails on a shingle but then you put 4 more in the next shingle but those 4 nails also grab the shingle under it. If you nail in the nail line that is
Clicked on this just to see the comments. It was worth it.
pretty informative
Thank You
You're fired second row where you had your hand low exposure not meeting up with the saw tooth
I've been a roofing Contractor for over 20 years and those are more like the least common mistakes I've seen
Scott Weymer , I'm with ya man. I've seen these problems on a lot of roofs, but not as much as several other reasons. ..nail heads in water grooves, no flashing, or flashed wrong, not staggered enough, etc...
I've only done a few roofs, but some of the shit people pull, you wonder how they dress themselves in the morning!
I do see high nail alot to be honest.
Being a contractor and being an inspector are very different things, It was not until I started doing consulting and getting my eyes on HUNDREDS of roofs that I realized the mistakes he mentions in this video and others, are very common. Perspective makes the difference
Scott Weymer i agree !! like wtf are talking about
Great video Saludos
These are common mistakes? Thanks for this vid to show us the real fact.
If Billy Corgan and Lars Ulrich had a blue collar son....
There was a time and place, and you've found it.
I see Norm McDonald and Red from That 70s Show.
Claw hammer?
I think you accidentally illustrated one of the most common errors of roofing when you demonstrated using drip edge over the felt you wrapped around the roof edge; you held it up against the facia board, when in fact it's very important to leave a decent gap between the drip edge and facia board to keep the water draining straight down (most recommend 1/2" to 1"). A 1 x 2 furring strip works well. This Old House has a great short video showing why and how.
How long are shingles guarantee
I use Scott tape, nails leave holes.
I need more practical (not theory) instructions about those 4 mistakes. I am not a roofer, but I need to know if I am going to hire some who should know what to do.
Treat yourself with love and respect, and you will attract people who show you love and respect.
I agree on the roofing over hang, I install gutters and God damn I hate it when the roof is more than 1 1/2 inch out, not only is the water running off my damn gutter but the customer doesn't get it. But I make it damn clear it ain't gonna work.
When you press the wrong video
Why not clearly demonstrate these mistakes showing us precisely what you are talking about versus just talking about them? You should have tools in hand illustrating your points.
Grant Brown i know NOTHING about roofing, and i don't even know why i watched this video, but i understood everything he covered
You stole my thunder. 1 up
Grant B no shit.. most people don't have a lot of roofing experience
They want your business!...Good advertising!
This guy talks about nailing but doesn't explain exactly how to do it properly.
Billy Corgan does a DIY CZcams channel?
Joe Coastie p
Mike Warren ?
Like the videos. Awesome info.
I like to take the new applicators out on repairs. So they can see first hand why you should do things a certain way. Also I was thinking videos like these could help them learn.
Lmao Billy corgan right I thought he was going to bust out into a song
From Smashing Pumpkins to Fixing Roofs
I just pop 2 nails in there and call up grandma to come get me
Anyone else notice the ridge cap on the lockout doesn’t have a starter course? Great expert 🤣
Did he also screw the bottom of that boot? I hope not!
God forbid those skylights
Number one problem with stalling asphalt shingles is not taking care to remove what is under them !
On 1:20 you missed a hummer on the Nail 😂
Mistake #6: buying a house with stapled shingles
Side note: how is this a thing? Are there actual roofing companies that use staples, or was it an older practice that some DIYers still use?
Not sure, but I've torn off plenty of em.. Always nailed them back on though
Back in the 80's it was common practice to use roofing staples for asphalt shingles in Florida as the building code did not require asphalt underlament (tar paper) in CT; whereas, it was the code for the neighboring state of NY. Technology advances, techniques are enhanced and methods evolve. What seems absurd today may have been standard practice in the past as some practices back then may be seen as overkill in these times.
The most common mistake I've seen is an improperly installed or non-existant starter strip. I have a torch down Brai roof on a house with 2/12 on one side and 3/12 on the other. 2/12 is good but the 3/12 is a bit too steep as the roll tends to migrate downward during the installation. Here's one for you: the original roofers installed the edge flashing from the peak downward so the lower strip is on top of the higher strip. Water runs under the flashing joints. With another house I've been involved with the roofers used a gravel stop flashing on a mop down cap sheet roof. Water ponds at the edge. The pitch is about 1/12. Not a roofing issue, but one house I own had the fixed window in the living room installed upside down. This puts the drain holes at the top, and none at the bottom. So builders and alleged tradesmen make a lot of mistakes that cause a lot of grief and headaches. One time I was approached by "professional" painters who wanted to know how large is a "volume." They had a two part paint and the instructions were to mix 1 part to 2 by volume. The problem with roofers in general is that it is not a trade that attracts really intelligent people. Probably many roofers can't actually read and understand the instructions on a bundle of shingles. Most recently I talked to a guy cutting the panels for a metal roof. I asked him what gauge the metal was. He said he didn't know because he was just learning the trade and was just learning how to make the cuts. As far as I know that roof came out OK, but I've only looked at it from the ground. The metal, by the way, was 22 gauge and it was applied to probably a 12 / 12 or steeper roof. In the same group of houses there's one with an 18 / 12 roof. According to the contractor, it's impossible to walk on it.
the most common mistake is using shingle.
Usually singles are Not recommended for low slope roofs...
good video, thanks for the info.
I appreciate your video thanks I did think about screws vs nails for wind resistance 😎
i used 3 per shingel hope the roof stays up
You might sleep better if you go back and tab all the shingles down
His 4th and 6th row seams are lined up...
9 swings of the hammer to drive that nail ~ You're fired.
and he made about $7 bucks a day
He’s why they made pneumatics.
Good advertising!
Never laid a roof down in his life , the tool belt is so new it still has a price tag on it
Facts
Just did a shed. Harder than it looks. Haha. I messed it up.
So if I shouldn't shingle a 2/12 roof, what should I use?
Either Roll-On/Self Adhered, or Torch On Roofing. There's also another Roll product, but you need a Hot Seam Welder for installation. It's a Product called TPO. Don't listen to that other Person, esp when all they mention is one Product
If we do metal on a flat roof we peel and stick it first (self adhering ice and water shield)
plz dont tell me you put your starter under the drip edge!?!?!
+Joe Mcclinton I see what you're looking at. In that picture, you're actually seeing the ice and water shield going under the drip edge. This is a good technique in cold climates that helps prevent ice dams from getting in at the junction between the fascia and decking. This detail is explained more clearly in the complete video. Yes, you are correct, after the drip edge goes down, the starter would then go on top.
Ive seen alot of ppl put the tar line down on the leading edge starters wouldnt it be better if the tar was on top? Double tar line at the bottom just seems like overkill to me
No, tar line should go down, to prevent lifting of wind at the eave. Don't want your shingle seperating due to wind, or backed up frozen eaves-troughs.
Shame, Joe. Shame. Overkill equals redundancy. In most cases 2 or 3x redundancy as far as strength is concerned can't possibly be a bad thing. The tar line of a starter shingle serves literally no purpose up underneath a shingle, none at all. IKO calls them Leading Edge starters for a reason. You're supposed to lead with the glue. A common mistake not mentioned in this video but is appropriate here: People don't use starter caps. When starting a course of cap, you must always start with a cap with its exposure cut off. This allows nailing to take place closer to the leading edge of a peak and also allows the tar strip to adhere to the leading cap, strengthening it.
Astromyxin
Good tip with caps, never thought of that!
My thought exactly. You know so why don't you share.
What boggles my mind is that we have come all of this way and we still rely primarily on asphalt shingled roofs that require replacement at least every 20 years for your average residential home. Don't even get me started on commercial style torch on membrane roofs.
Elastomeric coating an asphalt membrane roof can keep it going for ever. I'll grant you it is labor intensive, but incredibly easy except for lifting the heavy buckets up onto the roof. Repair is extremely easy too. Personally I would never ever use the expensive siliconized stuff. I don't think it's possible to re-coat or repair. It's being marketed heavily, but I think you either get it right the first time or tear it off and replace the entire roof. There's no second chance.
At 4.07 min. the ice and water shield should go over the drip edge at the eaves not under as you are showing...
+Flr Power Putting the ice and water under the drip edge and down over the top edge of the fascia is a technique for cold climates that helps prevent ice dam leaks in the area. When snow and ice build up in the gutter, it can leak into the house or cornice area through the gap between the fascia and roof decking. This application seals that gap.
RoofingIntelligence is correct, it sticks directly to the roof sheathing and wrapped around some of the fascia. The reason to wrap around the fascia is because the ice builds up in the gutter then sneaks under the drip edge and up onto the roof. Then you install your drip edge, and then you can put your underlayment (paper) over the top of the whole thing to bottom of the drip edge as usual. But with that said.....new homes in cold climates should all be built using two important methods not usually done - install raised-heel trusses and use exterior insulation. This will envelope the top plate of the home inside and out with insulation and prevent those ice dams on the roof from happening in the first place, therefore the need for an ice/water shield should no longer exist....hopefully.
Thirty years of installing and i think you should revamp at least number 4. With proper starter installed shingles can cantilever to an inch past the drop edge because it's the same as D or A style. The application is the same to prevent capillary action. Manufactures generally say 3/8" minimum. Also your drop edge demonstration though making a point you show improper application even though you just showed drop edge. Just as 3/8 to 1 inch is variable you should express there are a few ways to apply. There are different Pipeflashing also. Over all thanks improper application has ruined our industry and made me pretty well off!!
I agree stagger no good
Norm?
There are times when nailing high is necessary. When you have 1×8, 1×6,1×10 or even plywood there are cracks where the boards meet, if you nail there they don't hit anything and if left in they will cause nail pops on your roof. I agree nail placement is critical but people don't explain if you don't hit anything when nailing do not leave them in they will come back up and cause leaks there are times when you need to nail high. Nails too close to the valleys and people nailing in the water keys where the shingles meet are your most common problems when nailing shingles.
I dunno, I like racking architectural shingles such as GAF Timberline and CertainTeed Landmark Pro. I live in a warm climate and cracking has yet to happen. A past client called me recently to install a skylight for her, I shingled her roof in 2008 with Landmark Pro or Landmark AR (honestly can't remember), but I do remember it was 10/12 and I rack'd 'em, and they still look good, no cracking, and she's never had a leak
Remember the days when we use to have to make sure batch numbers were all the same before ordering or installing? That is the true reason "Racking" is frowned upon, because color variations between Batches, but the shading pattern of most architectural shingles these days are not uniform in color so this isn't an issue as CertainTeed and GAF offer color match guarantees. I Think IKO does as well
what is racking ?
Dude within 39 seconds youre already installing the shingles wrong.never ever end a shingle that close to the wall..always put a piece before that.you don't want any nails that close..especially 2 right next to each other on a seam..yes flashing might cover but if that issue can be avoided....avoid it
drippedge frist on the bottom. than underlayment
everyone know that.
The last guy that I caught racking dimensional shingles got pushed off the roof. Ain't seen him since. Rumor Has It, he still roams the streets to this day, begging people for hook blades and telling stories about how many sq he can put on to random strangers that don't give a shit. Sometimes on a quiet summer night, if you listen real good, you can still hear that ol boy yelling as he was pushed from the roof right before he hit the ground. "What did I do wronnnnnnnnn......"
I thought he yelled "IIIIII quuuiiiiiiitttt" right before hitting the ground
Do you have your story on Audible? I’d like to listen to that.
1:24 nails are in line with the bottom of the shingle. the water will go there. those nails are gonna be rusty. nails need to be a lil higher
When I was a roofer, I told fellow roofers to put flashing in the valleys per the old way. To a man they told me they only would use the new way, which was simply to lace them up the valley without flashing. "My roofs never leak when I do it that way," they would tell me. Five years later, driving through the same neighborhoods we roofed, I saw that nearly every valley had to be replaced after a few years.
You can put 15 pound tar roofing paper in valleys.
@@TammyTimeMovies Just felt if it gets constantly wet can let a valley leak after a few years.
Not if it's doubled. Plus also you can put shingles a foot and a half high up one side...nail a foot away from valley on both sides. Then do a cut... and under that cut are shingles going lengthwise up the valley. Timberline shingles.
@@TammyTimeMovies I've seen valleys fail done that way. I spent a lot of years as a roof repairman. There's no excuse to cut corners.
it's not cutting corners. You are so negative. Stop acting like You know everything.
You have no wall flashing in front of your gable. You can see almost a half inch gap there for water to get in, plus you can see the nails on the shingles in front of the gable and they have no silicone on them. If you live in canada where I live, and it snows and piles up there which it always does, you are gonna have a major leak. Does anyone take pride in their work anymore?
USE ROOF ROOF TAR NOT SILICONE
The most common mistake is see is breaking the starter shingle at the same spot as the first row of shingles, completely defeating the purpose of using a starter shingle. You would be surprised how many "professional" roofers don't know the purpose of a starter shingle lol.
This is true you should never have ur waterlines meet up with the next. It's one the reasons that fascia boards rot-out so badly.
Hey buddy your second row is off haha... Brandy
Ha Ha Prick
8 nails 🤔6 nails is the correct amount
On Owens Corning shingle with the nail technology you only need 4 in the right place 😀
False.
We put 6 nails, FL. Miami Dade code
on laminated shingles yeah, thus 6 nais in the nailing zone and 6 nail on the top of the shingle. 12 nails total.
@@toitureetrenovationg.l.f.9708 yea he said 4 then 8 total. Not 6 and 12 total.
I honestly didn't listened that long I guess, boring video and not that informative. I install over 150 roofs a year in a 9 month period because winte, I watch a lot of content to get some infos or new techniques, but this video was not interesting at all lol.
@@toitureetrenovationg.l.f.9708 what state you in?
@@jpmonin7429 none, I'm from Quebec, Canada. Hence the long winters...
I only use 3 nails per shingle it saves materials and it last for years.