How to Install Asphalt Shingles by RoofingIntelligence.com
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- This video explains how to install both three tab shingles and architectural shingles. It goes into detail with specific instructions for laying out and installing most any type of asphalt shingle on your roof. Go now to www.RoofingInte... to get the entire multi-part video series with all the information you'll need to install a shingle roof yourself. This video series is available to stream immediately online or to purchase as a DVD.
Chris Lutz is a professional roofer in Georgia and created RoofingIntelligence.com to teach people how to install a new roof themselves or to improve as a professional installer.
Out of all of the videos on installing shingles, this was the absolute best.
I agree other videos don’t explain it correctly and are confusing
I fully agree! this video was concise clear and full of solid content. One might say Chris Lutz Nailed it! Thank you Chris! -from a new subscriber, w/ notifications turned: ON
Why’d this guy stop making videos?? He only made a few but they are all very informative and well produced.
He passed away dude
@@walterwhite1 Wow didn't know
he looks so young. how did he pass away?
Hello sir, this is my first time installing IKO shingles will start soon, so I always see your video, thanks for your hight light. From kuching sarawak, Malaysia..
I really love just the, "Read the instructions"
Never hurts to read the directions!
Very informative. Puzzling why all the "professional" roofers are watching videos like this and finding faults with his demonstration???I guess they had questions too....
Darin Vanater
no questions. we just want to save people from throwing there money away by hiring a fool like this guy
So?
Pros not all knowing perfect roofers
Dude... it's called CURIOSITY
anyone hiring this guy isn't going to be up there observing his work. This is for people who want to do their own roofs.
And i'm sure no body does it textbook.
excellent tutorial! and straight to the point! thanks so much 👍👍👍
Awesome video sir, but getting lost and going off topic like if you left or right handed but it dont matter. The great knowledge you sharing seems to get lost in that. Again super knowledgeable
Dude you are a genius
I really like the way you explain a lot of the things you’re doing, and I appreciate the video! One thing that I feel you overlooked was what happens when your roof is not square. You have a nice square model and everything is nice and straight. That’s not always reality!
The best burnout on the CZcams
great video, very depth in details but too much talk and less action. Most folk are visualized learning, it will be great that the actions are showing same time that you theorizing: less time to watch, easier to understand. I do appreciate your video more than a lot Thank you
I pop 1 line ..on a architech shingle ...i hook my tape measure on the eve and mark 18 inches at both ends and pop a line ..i run my starter and down course and when i get to the 3rd course i stay on line at top of shingle and the rest is history
I roofed for over 25 years and not once did I chalk lines on the felt paper, there are already lines on the felt to help you see if you're getting off.
Great video.
Will definitely help me shingle my shed...thanks
We always used the same gauge for side lap as we did height gauge so that the slits didn't line up on every other course... this way if a crack develops between courses where the slits were it wouldn't lead to a guaranteed leak.... that being said, spend the extra cash and apply a laminate shingle......
I was just checking the specs on the duration shingle and looked at this out of curiosity. I read several comments and find it interesting the "professionals" that need to prove their experience. This is a generic video for the average Joe. We all have are way of doing things. Me a licensed General Contractor, Licensed roofer and former Inspector. Many guys can lay it out without chalk lines but many can't. Believe it or not, it is NOT recommended by the mfg to nail in the glue line. You need to make sure you are penetrating the shingle below when that nail is installed. In Florida, there are more requirements for the use of asphalt cement about every where and over lapping things differently then how we use to do it. The eave or drip is installed over the underlayment , a layer of asphalt cement is applied 6" wide at the edge of the roof all around. It is essential that you follow the manufactures' installation guide or the warranty is voided. So, the first thing to do is read the installation instructions before you do it the way you have always done it. Code changes and new understanding of the effects of wind and driving rain has caused us to reconsider how we do things in Florida. At one point 3 tab shingles were not allowed to be installed in Florida and all shingles had to be 6 nailed. That has been changed from testing instead of presumptions. However, in the highest wind zones in Florida you can't use 3 tab.
Good evening sir
Thank you for demonstration & it will help me a lot you are doing job,keep up your demonstration tutorial thank you,
Use a full shingle for starter and rake. Don’t pop 10” lines for dimensional shingles they have a 5 and 5/8” reveal. The closest you can pop is 11” lines and you only lose 1/4 inch every other row. This guys is a bob villa. True roofers do it differently. As for the low nails he’s right. You want them as low as you can get without exposing them for the best wind protection. Your nail pattern should look like this - - - - -
This gives you a gap where the next shingle will meet.
Edited to add that I will be making a video on how to actually roof a house. I operate a roofing business and worked for multiple different roofers over the course of my life. I’ve seen the ins and outs of people’s ways of doing it, right and wrong. I’ve formulated the best ways to do it professionally and would challenge anyone to try and correct it.
Dustin, where's your roofing video? My roofer will be roofing in a couple of weeks and I wanna make sure he's properly schooled! I should say, he is ALSO a roofer because he is doing the addition on my house. I know he's good there. But that COULD be the scariest kind of roofer. So pls hurry!
Americanman Stan it is coming tomorrow or Friday.
Nails below the seal so any water that gets blown under the shingle leaks. Also nailing close to gap which is a common failure point as the shingles age and crack.
Thank you very much very interesting👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Had to do re do a roof for one of my bosses clients this helped a lot thank you!
Best shingle video by far! Thought I had it figured out in my head but you just reinforced it. Thanks!
Right up front it appears that the starter strips are not installed correctly to shed water. Ok on the former but wrong on the roof ends.
After the starter course, wouldn't it be okay to go vertically with a full shingle, then 6 inches of the next shingle, then back to a full shingle, and so on. I know with this method I would have to work horizontally too.
Thanks For
Info And Technique 🔨
1. starter shingle overlap is wrong
2. one line is simple to follow. measure in from the side of the roof the width of the shingle.
3. that's what the slits on the sides of the shingle are for
Kyle MacDonald yup water flows down
If you live in Florida it is code for 6 nails per shingle
If you're nailing as low as he is then the next shingle is nailed through the first one. You're getting 6 to 8 nails per shingle.
At the beginning of the video I see the the starter shingles. Would putting the horizontal edge shingle under the vertical edge shingle be better? (at the corners) I see it's done that way above the window.
What is the best material for building a shed?
10" 20" 30" on stagger for archetectual shingles iko brand and certanteed.. Says it right on bundle
You are a great teacher. Very clear directions!
Why is the bottom starter shingle on top of the side starter shingle?
On the architectural shingles you need at least 5 to 6 nails per shingle. My brother inlaw worked for a roofer and that's what is code to do. And your placement of the nail is wrong also. It is supposed to go into the part above where you said it's to go. Not sure when you did the video, maybe it changed since you did it. ? You shouldn't need lines chalked after your done the first row. You just fallow the edge of the middle section of your next shingle and carry on with the rest of them. 👍
He is doing 8 nails per shingle. 4 below the tar line and 4 up top when he nails the next course.
Do you have a video on woven valleys where one side of the roof runs east to west and the other side of the roof runs north to south?
Awesome video. Thank you very much.
My big question is to why your starters are nailed so high?? I guess you aren't worried about wind blowing the first course of shingles up??
Isn't the overall goal to install a roof that doesn't leak, and lasts for years? Does it make any difference what method you use as long as you achieve your goal?
well shingles are designed to be effective only if specific methods are used.
That pattern for the Landmark pro shingles is completely wrong. Read the package as you stated at the beginning of the video.
I did a search on " complaints on roof shingles ". And could find nothing but complaint after complaint on Owens corning and Gap shingles since my only option for my situation was one or the other.Since both had horrible reviews , i went with the cheaper priced one ,why not ,why pay more for same result ,Ha Ha Ha ! gap thats for me .Lol
correction , my error, " gaf not gap " 😂
Why the small gable does look like the rest of the roof?
Many of the "Pro roofers" commenting here saying to nail high or on the glue line are the ones who voided their customers warrantees on their roofs! Have any of you read the manufactures instructions at all? Wow! Poor customers! In this video the guy shows the factory nailing lines and he's "wrong"?
no step flashing used? on dorner walls or front?
Guess not
Were is you flashing on the dorm that's a bad mess waiting to happen
so they are being held only by nails? wouldn't they fly off when there is a storm?
For architectural shingles there's tar strips on the underside and face side of the shingles. Different brands have different layouts, some with three, but some with only two. When they are installed correctly the two strips overlap eachother and then are glued together. If it's a cold day it might not glue together right away, but when the sun/heat gets to them it will bond together. 3 tabs only have one strip of tar, located on the underside of the shingles, just because it would be in-efficient whilst applying when being produced, they just have one strip on the face of the shingle but still glues down to the shingle underneath.
good job
Whats the points that need to be cut when doing a california cut valley
this was good thanks
should you leave a 1/4 in over hang on first shinle for water not to drip onto tha facia
Were is your 2nd nail on the end ? U always put 2 nails in the end towards your gable end .
Cool. Many manufacturers tell you to double nail every spot to cover the warrantee. But that's just a way of getting out of the warrantee because no one at all is going to do that.
Thank you!
good stuff . Cept where are your metal step flashings for the dormer?
I've used them as guides too. Good point.
Hey genius! He's not demonstrating how to install flashing on his dog house.
Enjoyed the video - one suggestion is avoid using the word "basically" repeatedly - other than that - good job!
Great video bud! Well done.
best comprehensive video, nice
Why do you stop at 5 courses with architectural shingles and not use the 6" shingle on the 6th course? Wouldn't this put the right edge of shingle to close to a nail if you use a full shingle on your 6th course?
Brian Thyberg a 6" shingle is more likely to be blown off or damaged you never use a 6" or below cut off to start or finish a course.
great video, very well explained. thank you very much.
Thanks.
What is the purpose of continually cutting 6" off as you lay the first 6 courses? I just did my shed..1st row full shingle, 2nd row 6" off, 3rd row full shingle, and so on. It has the same look and all joints are still on top of a solid shingle below.
I wondered the same thing. Why make all those cuts if you don't have to?
I think because the shingle edges are more distributed the way he did it. It's the same technique you would use laying decking or hardwood floors.
Gregg F000000 it's so you can lay 6 rows of shingles at each place you are standing as you move down the roof.
The realty company I work for has me to tear off shingles for the roofing company I have never tore roof off where the nails we're below the tar line and these roof never leak they or just old roofs might be 30 years old
Thank you for the video
Are you installing head flashing and tin shingles?
I’ve never seen a roofing crew ever snap a chalk line every 5”..... ever!
He explains it at 4:09 that is he chalking each course for demonstration purposes.
This video isn't targeted at experienced roofing crews, but likely for DIYers etc.
It’s for educational purposes not for professionals !!!!
@Troy Smith no I haven't. Sounds like you shoulda had your safety harness on if you're fallin' off roofs.
How do u layout on hip roof.
why do you run starter strip up the rake? i get it could help with wind but it seems wasteful and unnecessary
jacob green it's code
jacob green it seals the edges its called picture framing.
The starter edge shingles give the gable edge shingles more rigidity, provides a surface or base which helps support the forthcoming installed shingles, thus helping to prevent sagging curled shingles (later on), and they provide more wind resistance - thanks to the tar strip and thickness. (think about how plywood layers increase strength)
If you skip using starter shingles on the gable edge, your roof is going to suffer in performance and appearance in just a few short years.
Here in metro DC area anyway , never have seen starters on the rakes, only drip edge. Even In the Certainteed 200 page Shingle Applicators Manual I received at the builders trade show in Dallas (they actually sent me 10 manuals to distribute to all my roofer subs) there is no mention or diagram of starters on the rakes..I like the idea tho, but I would consider mitering the intersection of rake and eave starters so that glue tabs do their intended job at eave and rake intersection.. ALso great idea laying the 1st course 1/4 " overhanging the starter as this prevents "surface tension water clinging" causing water to actually run uphill
you dont 45 a three tab and your nails on your sixer isnt far enough to the gable
This is not the approved Certainteed layout for the Landmark series shingle installation.
Yeah but that certainteed layout is bullshit
is the cellophane strip on the back of each shingle to be removed prior to nailing it down?
No, never.
This is incorrect, the manufactures specifically say not to remove the release tape (most of them are labeled DO NOT REMOVE in large print), as the tape is printed with encoded information that is needed if the warranty is ever claimed. As far as the shingles sealing to the layer below, removing the release tape doesn't have any effect, as the tar strip is designed to adhere to an area not covered by the tape.
right. I was mistaken, period.
The only reason that strip is there is so the shingles won't stick together in the package....
The sun and/or heat chemically dissolves that clear strip, although I've seen many survive 15+ years of aging.
People are responsible for their own joy.
Can you are should you install a roof in the rain?
The only time you want to install a roof in the rain is when you're feeling suicidal and wanna slip and fall off the house
I've installed shingles in the rain. Like if I have the sheathing covered by felt paper and such, I will still shingle if it's light rain and on a low slope. The shingles heat when the sun comes out, will evaporate any little water droplets that was underneath.
Put asphalt cement on nail heads that are close to joints and you never have to worry about leaks.
Why below the glue, why not even with the glue ( latter I know is NOT hinailing, I know what hinailing is)?
The glue has nothing to do with nails. It seals the shingles together in one big mat so they don't blow off. On architecturals in particular, you would most certainly be high nailing the very top of the shingle below if you go through the sealing strips.
No way your getting a full shingle on that next row without switching the nail pattern for at least that shingle I want a reply!!!!
You definitely know what your talking about I wanna see you do a valley, also I would like to hear tips on boots vents chimneys dormers all of it where can I find it
Reply ....
You better go see a professional. Your nailing pattern leaves you susceptible on your rake edge. You should have 2 nails on the rake ends. One at the top of the cutout and another 1" from the wood edge.
I'm trying to do an old garage roof, using "laminated" (I guess same as architectural shingles?). Two questions: 1- The roof has 4 slopes, so there are 4 ridges that meet at about 55 degree angle - how would I lay these first shingles - do I cut the shingle at an angle, bend it over the ridge, just place it so it's as close to the ridge as possible... no videos on CZcams on a roof like that that I can find. 2- Do I still need a starter roll of upside down shingles, mine(Everest 42) seem to have 3 lines of "glue" - top, middle and at the bottom on the bottom side and there's no glue anywhere on the top of the shingle. Help please.
Bending any shingle over a ridge is not necessary or recommended. They will crack later on. The ridge cap shingles to follow will lay better and more properly if you avoid laying shingles over the edge from one roof side to the opposite side.
The only time I might do this would be to temporarily dry the roof in - IF ridge caps were not going to be installed for a few days and perhaps rain is coming.
Is there reasoning behind staggering up the teers? Why can’t you do full shingles from the bottom to the top following that edge? I guess I’m just confused.
Then you would have butt joints directly over top of each other leaving a clear path for water to get to your felt paper and decking.
Laminated shingles are not cut at 6 and 12 and so on ,the cut pattern is on the package
Why is your starter shingles on the eve on top of the gabble ( side starter shingles)?
And I thought you supposed to nail on the tar line on the shingles?
The tar strips are for sealing the shingles together, not nailing lines.
I came to check this so I could see if i was doing something wrong, but Im disappointed with this professional way of installation, I always use step flashing on the side of any dormer, I use ice & water shield on any valley and 2 feet higher than the walls level.
I put my nails in the tar line and I only stagger 2 shingles
Me as well. I don't understand how not doing so can prevent water damage. I do so to have the tar seal around the shaft of the nails. Seems like he is nailing too low to me.
I don’t know a thing about roofing but it seems as though the nails would be better off through the part of the shingle that has a tar line; first because the extra tar might make for that much of a better seal against water intrusion and nail oxidation, and second because the extra half inch or so higher up that the nails are might make a huge difference considering just how much surface area that the average roof has. Does anyone have any good reason why the nails wouldn’t better serve their function placed slightly higher up and through the tar line?
The nails are also intended to fasten the top of shingles from the course below. nailing at the tar line is too high up on the shingle below. plus nailing on the tar line will void your warranty. If Eric is a professional roofer he has certainly voided all of his customers warranties.
@@jessemclaughlin9680 coming from?
@@jessemclaughlin9680 I dont think you k ow what you are talking about..
what is our say about racking up laminates shingles ?
What tool belt/pouches do you use?
a boys belt
As little as possible on a roof.
I thought you have to have 6 nails per shingle
Depends on the shingle and the brand, they vary from one to another. Always make sure your crew knows the nail count for the job they are doing. Otherwise warranty is void
your starters are over lapped wrong on the roof you got it right on the dormer though
James Hennessy what's wrong with the starter?
Great observation, James! I noticed that too. As a general rule, the higher shingle (especially on a steeper slope) should be ON TOP of any lower shingles. In other words, install starters on the gutter/fascia edges first, then gable edges second.
Why does the horz started strip lap the wrong way ? sorry but that's wrong and Im not watching anymore
dont be afraid of the edge
better order more then need doing it like that
Nah u use them in repetition
Why would you keep cutting the shingle for the 6 starter shingles?
Why not just do 2 finish the columns then repeat.
The way your doing it seems like a waste .
While that method is acceptable and widely used for three tabs, I wanted to demonstrate a technique that would work for both three tab and architectural. Also, this video is designed for beginners and I've noticed that many people forget to go back and nail the edge of the tab from the previous course when using the 'racking' method you are describing. I felt like this method was the simplest and most straightforward for new shinglers to use.
RoofingIntelligence.com I think that the starter shingle should be flush with the edge of your drip edge and then overhang your shingle 1/4-1/2" whatever your preference. Not both starter and shingle flush together.
Shouldn't the rake starter overlap the gable starters? They look reversed.
I'm not a pro roofer, but have prepped and shingled several roofs. Ironically, some redoing bad pro roofer work. I never use chalk lines. They're inaccurate for distances >10'; rafters or trusses and ply sheathing are never perfectly flat to slap the chalk down; lines get scrubbed off from foot traffic; (for gable roofs) each rectangular side gable to ridge are never equidistant, always irregular. Makes chalk lines a source of misinformation.
The 6 up/6 off is a good time saver for architectural shingles by doing the cutting on the ground, avoiding having to trim on the roof.
I laser straight line the gable starters and first row for the all important reference plane. Go up rows, eying each for straightness, regularly measuring to the ridge. If a row appears to start waving out of true, I use a dry line to realign, then continue up. Always get to the ridge within 1/4" either side.
I use commercial grade ice & water, two rows of 36" for 4-in-12 or shallower; 36" if steeper; synthetic underlayment to the ridge, drip edge all around; step flashing and counter flashing. Diamond grinder wheels in the chimney. I've never had a roof fail.
Jason, maybe you should do a video. Everyone I've watched has comments saying they're doing it wrong. Very frustrating and time consuming.
Yea man so it goes. Drip edge on eve, paper, drip edge on. Rake, 1st started gets cut about 6 inch then overlapped a little with second starter. Rake starter goes over eve starter. Only other thing i do differently than shown is cut 6.5 in off each single for an exact 6.5 , 13, then 19.5. Gives you a perfect step like the 3 tabs he did.
And for the lines on long streaches make multiple lines aka one in the middle. If the house is square ive never had problems snap line across and see if it lines up. Or have third person snap while pushing the line down in the middle keeps it strait.
Jason Bell I think you can put a chalk line down the middle and work from the middle to the hips. or just make shure you keep the shingles staggered the best you can.
What's an average price per square for three tab on an 8-12 pitch?
Never used a utility knife to cut shingles in my lifetime
So I am repairing a hole in my roofing, what do you use to cut the shingle with?
@@stonebrooktaxbooks7648 A utility knife is just fine. I use an Estwing roofing hatchet which has the hammer (square shape) on one end and a thick blade that sticks out on the opposite end. Some cheaper shingle hatchets only have a sharpened edge on one end, which is not precise enough to cut with.
(for reference: I've been roofing since age 15, I'm 65 now & still roofing)
Chalk a crap ton of lines of just use an ajc speed roofing hatchet with guages😂
I can tell just by the way he holds the nail that he has never nailed a roof
You can skip chalking lines altogether if you run them correctly.
I’ve been a professional roofer for over 165 years, this is all wrong! Also, I invented roofs.
Something about the way you say things makes me think you're full of of tar.
This is a joke right? I mean the starter on the eave of the dormer is wrong. 😂
I thing you are showing every body the wrong way, i think the nail should be higher where the tar strip is. Down low like you have it it can leak and rot out the roof. up higher on the tar strip the shingle is much stronger it will seal better from the tar and will not sink down making a low spot and more coverage from the shingle above...Another important thing don't buy Tamko shingle they only last 10 years. Get the Owens Corning shingles rated for 130 MPH winds those will still look like new when you are throwing your tamco ones away in the garbage. I know opinions are like cell phones everybody has one, but i know what I'm talking about.
Pete Bennington I completely agree the way that he is nailing them he is just asking for water leaks and damages that would need to be fixed later on. The fact that he said he had inspected "thousands of rooves" but doesn't know this simple step is alarming
I agree his nailing it wrong
Yes i agree with you
Wrong way to stall shingle
I agree with Pete. The proof is easily produced.... simply lift the shingle edge on any older shingle (especially on a low pitch roof) and you'll see an accumulation of debris like small leaves, even pine straw. This also means WATER can seep underneath shingles - and it does. This is the main principal behind those funky curled edge gutter screens. The water clings to the edge and tries to suck itself right under any curved surface ... including a shingle edge in this case. So NEVER nail so close to the shingle slot - keep it a minimum of 1 inch above that slot. It causes no harm if it hits the tar strip.
FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS. I have not seen leaks from nails placed where they say to place it. Only from incorrect seam alignment, valleys being flashing inappropriately, skylights, roof vents and boots being improperly installed, etc. NOT FROM THE CORRECT NAILING PATTERN REQUIRED BY THE MANUFACTURER. If you do not follow their guidelines, they will not warranty their product.
U have to paid to watch the full video... don't bother going to the website you have to pay to see the rest of the videos.
This would never pass code in Florida. LMAO
New to the industry and trying to learn the RIGHT way to do stuff. Why would the method shown not pass code in FL?
Why don't they use more tiles and slates they last a life time
Some of this information is wrong.
He does know that if you nail lower than the tar line it can leek ya?
Well let's see... They are referred to (by the pros) as COURSES. Not 'rows"
You should cut the shingle from the BACK side or you will be replacing blades way too often.
Starter courses (not rows) should overhang no more then 1/2". 3/8" is better. Giving better support to the first course.
First course (not row) is then over hung an additional 3/8"-1/2". Total = 3/4" to 1" overhang.
And, and...asphalt shingles should be installed FROM THE RIDGE DOWN. That's right... top to bottom!!!
Bet you never figured that out!
The real roofing professionals in my area, Maine, have done top/down for decades. Adds 10-15 years to the life of a roof by not walking or staging on new shingles. Asphalt 3-tap or architectural..
Wish more people like you would do a video so the rest of us could learn the right way. I live in the Southeast it's very hot and humid in the summer and we have the occasional hurricane scare every year. I'd like to know what type of shingles you reccommend?
Top down plz explain how only 4 nails hold better then 8
@@wyattblack7437 more nails more places for it to leak
Hell now days it's just as cheap to get metal roofing put on
@@ericscott4092 nails are covered by top run