05-06 BMW E46 M3 Differential Rebuild | Racing Diffs Clutch Pack Replacement
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- čas přidán 23. 08. 2024
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Random question; does the E9x M3 diff and FD drop into the E46 M3 housing??
Thanks for the vid man . Currectly work at dealer. Overtightened pinion nut . Crushed the sleeve. Didnt drive the car but got it apart and going to install new sleeve snd send it. 1.62-2.62 nm is spec .. backlash spec is betwen .0014mm-.0055mm
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Appreciate you a ton!! Thank you
Very nice video. I send my kit back, since I could not remove the collar (destroyed the half moons and the kit has the wrong bearing for the pinion). That was the most headache job, with the lack of not having a brother ;). Also the big bearing on the pinion was not correct. This set had a double ball bearing, while this diff has the roller taped variant.
Also a tip for removing the pin, which blocks the collar. You can just use a dremel and cut it around. It will cost way less time than drilling around.
I am on the same spot as you are, I am just an enthusiastic who sometimes rebuild stuff out of passion. Keep it up and subscribed!
Appreciate the feedback a ton! Good luck with your project!
U fffed up bad
Very well explained! Don’t know when I’ll need this knowledge but very good video man! Keep it up
Haha bro you never know! Maybe you'll get back into bimmers eventually!
You rocking mate!!!!!
At 20:00, he said tightening too much on the lock ring will hurt the thing (the hydraulic pump which push on the clutch stack when the wheels spin at different speed). No, the ring only push on the pump housing and not the internal parts or the bearing.
Btw, he should press down on the carrier bearing inner race to compress the clutch spring washer, and this will make tightening the ring easier.
At 13:28 why do you put the spring washer with the concave side to the spider gear instead of the convex side? Concave side will cause the washer spins against the carrier (and wears the carrier) instead of the spider which is harder steel than the carrier. I would put the convex side to the spider.
The spring washer will wear faster as it spins against the housing on a small contact surface instead of the whole washer surface. Better yet one can use a thicker flat washer or adding shims to reduce the plays.
Using the new spring washer, this will put extra radial load on the 4 smaller spider gears (you had to compress the spring washer to install the 3 rods), which can cause the 2 shorter rods to spin with the spiders instead of spider spins around the rod as the factory wanted. The rotating rods could wear down the C-clip and let the short rods to move outward, then hell broke loose when the protruding rods hit the diff housing.
The pins can’t come out because the ring gear covers them. But you are probably correct that the added pressure may cause some in desired wear. Those small gears don’t rotate too much, only the rotational difference side to side.
big pimpin!
Привет от родственников из РБ)
Facts people make it easy setting backlash and pinion load but i would not trust myself with that much preciseness
i learned a lot, thanks for the detailed vid.
Happy this can help!
At 10:24, the long spider rod has 2 flat cut on the round rod. Why the rod needs those flat surfaces? My guess they are for the oil to lube the spinning spiders, but the other 2 spider rods have no flat cut.
Thank you for the video, I can't hear your words because of music.
How’s racediff holding up ? I’m doing my 06 at the moment. Any noticeable difference with the clutch pack ?
Did you replace the 16-13mm screws holding the output flange covers ? trying to replace mine since they're crusty and cant find a part number on realoem
Nope, I couldn't find them on there either.
The crush sleeve, what i have read on forums, is about 2Nm? Correct me if i'm wrong.
I'm also curious if you changed the shims for the backlash? If you did, how much of a change was it?
Thx
No I didn't replace the shims, hence why it's important to label them so you wouldn't misplace them.
did you find a difference in any clunking (on/off throttle, or between shifts (esp 1st gear) with the free-play kit?
Nope. I never really had a clunking issue to begin with, but if anything, it got even better to be honest.