Thanks for your video :-). Definitely would like to see the key repair. I know on the vehicles I work on for a living, the keys have been designed to where they can only be programmed to one vehicle. I would love to see if that feature, if it’s common to your vehicle, can be overridden. Cheers.
I will do it soon. It is annoying to keep having to use the metal key and though I can lock the doors - getting the rear glass boot lid on the C30 locked with the metal key eluded me so far.
I thought about two parallel crap-a-citors in parallel might last longer, then you selected two 50 uf (47uf) to share the wear. Hmm do you get half the esr value as well?. The mad thing is yesterday i was asked to fix a Bose cd/radio music player jobbie, early version with transformer and tiny remote control. The sled switch had given up the ghost, so it didnt know if the sled was in the center. There are some crap caps in those old units but it plays fine. Also gave the laser lense a wipe with a damp cotton bud. I expect it t fail later on with dead caps, but it works for now :-D
Phew , dodged a bullet there. In cheap caps the ESR depends on the thickness (resistance) of the aluminium foil and the connections to that foil. Beefier caps are always better. I have Japanese solid state amps from the 60s in which the electrolytic caps still are 100% value and ESR. I find that remarkable.
I use braid for a lot of jobs, including THT as well as SMD and micro work but also have a decent sucker with silicone tube nozzle that does a nice job with some caveats. On the scale of things I work on, it can also completely suck up whole tracks. For thick multilayer boards like gaming laptops and games consoles, the key is heat whether using braid or a sucker for things like HDMI anchors. Bottom heating, hot air assist or just a really big tip at 450 will do it. Either technique needs the right tools and application (and in the case of braid, there is indeed a huge difference between good and crap stuff). For braid and THT, I sometimes leave the legs in place to help send heat to the other side of the board and wick everything out. Everything is personal preference at the end of the day. Cheers.
I have no trouble with heat using a Weller 90 Watt station. I mostly use braid to clean boards when changing SMD components. Been doing a lot prototype work placing 0.3mm pitch QFN24 packages soldering iron lately. Occasionally I have to reach for the braid. I find Qualitek to be the most reliable. It seems less susceptible to degradation when left on the bench.
@@razenby I mentioned heat because looking at the video, the issue with the braid not working looked liked heat transfer. I use sub-100w irons on a bench at one place I work and can attest that 130-200W cartridge systems really make a difference especially when using smaller handpieces like the 115 nano I use a lot (with the largest bevel tip available!) Although only a double sided board, the planes here were quite large and sucky and the wick should be bubbling and thick with solder after a short application. With regard to braid degradation, I dowse the braid in flux if it turns out not to be behaving itself. My sucker is the best manual one I've found from a bunch of crappy ones I've tried that either flat out didn't work, or broke quickly. Best wishes, and looking forward to future videos. Rob
@@OnStageLightingI see your point, however In this case it wasn't heat transfer. They sucked out OK with a sucker. The iron is 90W silver element and tip. It solders joind on 2.5mm copper cable with ease. Braid doesn't work on small plated through holes on 1.6mm FR4. I could have put flux on it and probably cleared the holes with braid but I was kicking back against viewers we keep insisting that a solder sucker is antiquated. It may be likened to a hammer - you wouldn't let anyone hit a valuable piece of kit. That's what real trained engineers are for - to know which hammer to use and how hard to hit it. I use a soldering on for everything in the videos because that is what is most accessible for most viewers. I get a lot of failed repairs junk so called engineers have had a go at- they call them 'beyond economical repair' . Most of the have damaged and butchered tracking and sparrow s*ht soldering. Their problem is that they struggle to remove components because they have crappy irons with very poor thermal coupling to the tip. If the Weller indicates 360 degrees C you know it is displaying the tip temperature not the temperature sensed miles away with inferior thermal coupling to the business end. You can complete work on hefty joints with a Weller set to 360 that would require a 420 setting on a lot of irons.
@@razenby "Prior repair attempt" is regularly declined here for this reason. I totally understand how this happens with DIYers but between making the diagnosis more difficult and having to make multiple trace/pad repairs, the item has to be fairly high value to offset my sky high price for the job. The solder sucker I have is the SS-02 I think. It clogs very easily but does actually suck properly. I get through a lot of braid cleaning up for SMD work including reballing BGA. It's annoying because braid not particularly cheap, even the crap stuff.
I am going through this right now. Wish I came across your video first before I watched another. That sad video did it a different way and ruined the board. How did you get that one side of the board loose? Does it have to be soldered off? I wondering maybe I can buy an old unit take that side of the board off and just replace the caps the way YOU did it and I'll be more successful.
Have you ever repaired a Bose M1 Multi Room Interface or the display of the Bose P1 remote? The M1 has a similar capacitor issue and the luminescent sheet of the P1 display is a pricey repair for a simple sheet of luminescent paper. Would love to see a video for both of those repairs! Thanks for the great videos sir!
Is the back light a piece pf electro-luminescent paper? I have fixed a couple. By the looks of it it is usually a simple fix. . If you can send me one i''ll take a look at it.
Thanks for your video :-). Definitely would like to see the key repair. I know on the vehicles I work on for a living, the keys have been designed to where they can only be programmed to one vehicle. I would love to see if that feature, if it’s common to your vehicle, can be overridden. Cheers.
I will do it soon. It is annoying to keep having to use the metal key and though I can lock the doors - getting the rear glass boot lid on the C30 locked with the metal key eluded me so far.
I would like a video on programming vehicle keys. I also enjoyed your enlightenment on this video
I'll be onto it soon. I won another design contract!!!
Key repair would be great
I.m on it,
I thought about two parallel crap-a-citors in parallel might last longer, then you selected two 50 uf (47uf) to share the wear.
Hmm do you get half the esr value as well?.
The mad thing is yesterday i was asked to fix a Bose cd/radio music player jobbie, early version with transformer and tiny remote control.
The sled switch had given up the ghost, so it didnt know if the sled was in the center.
There are some crap caps in those old units but it plays fine.
Also gave the laser lense a wipe with a damp cotton bud.
I expect it t fail later on with dead caps, but it works for now :-D
Phew , dodged a bullet there. In cheap caps the ESR depends on the thickness (resistance) of the aluminium foil and the connections to that foil. Beefier caps are always better. I have Japanese solid state amps from the 60s in which the electrolytic caps still are 100% value and ESR. I find that remarkable.
@@razenby Bloody hell, that's amazing, you would never see that quality now.
Quite sad really.
I use braid for a lot of jobs, including THT as well as SMD and micro work but also have a decent sucker with silicone tube nozzle that does a nice job with some caveats. On the scale of things I work on, it can also completely suck up whole tracks. For thick multilayer boards like gaming laptops and games consoles, the key is heat whether using braid or a sucker for things like HDMI anchors. Bottom heating, hot air assist or just a really big tip at 450 will do it. Either technique needs the right tools and application (and in the case of braid, there is indeed a huge difference between good and crap stuff). For braid and THT, I sometimes leave the legs in place to help send heat to the other side of the board and wick everything out. Everything is personal preference at the end of the day. Cheers.
I have no trouble with heat using a Weller 90 Watt station. I mostly use braid to clean boards when changing SMD components. Been doing a lot prototype work placing 0.3mm pitch QFN24 packages soldering iron lately. Occasionally I have to reach for the braid. I find Qualitek to be the most reliable. It seems less susceptible to degradation when left on the bench.
@@razenby I mentioned heat because looking at the video, the issue with the braid not working looked liked heat transfer. I use sub-100w irons on a bench at one place I work and can attest that 130-200W cartridge systems really make a difference especially when using smaller handpieces like the 115 nano I use a lot (with the largest bevel tip available!) Although only a double sided board, the planes here were quite large and sucky and the wick should be bubbling and thick with solder after a short application. With regard to braid degradation, I dowse the braid in flux if it turns out not to be behaving itself. My sucker is the best manual one I've found from a bunch of crappy ones I've tried that either flat out didn't work, or broke quickly. Best wishes, and looking forward to future videos. Rob
@@OnStageLightingI see your point, however In this case it wasn't heat transfer. They sucked out OK with a sucker. The iron is 90W silver element and tip. It solders joind on 2.5mm copper cable with ease. Braid doesn't work on small plated through holes on 1.6mm FR4. I could have put flux on it and probably cleared the holes with braid but I was kicking back against viewers we keep insisting that a solder sucker is antiquated. It may be likened to a hammer - you wouldn't let anyone hit a valuable piece of kit. That's what real trained engineers are for - to know which hammer to use and how hard to hit it. I use a soldering on for everything in the videos because that is what is most accessible for most viewers. I get a lot of failed repairs junk so called engineers have had a go at- they call them 'beyond economical repair' . Most of the have damaged and butchered tracking and sparrow s*ht soldering. Their problem is that they struggle to remove components because they have crappy irons with very poor thermal coupling to the tip. If the Weller indicates 360 degrees C you know it is displaying the tip temperature not the temperature sensed miles away with inferior thermal coupling to the business end. You can complete work on hefty joints with a Weller set to 360 that would require a 420 setting on a lot of irons.
@@razenby "Prior repair attempt" is regularly declined here for this reason. I totally understand how this happens with DIYers but between making the diagnosis more difficult and having to make multiple trace/pad repairs, the item has to be fairly high value to offset my sky high price for the job. The solder sucker I have is the SS-02 I think. It clogs very easily but does actually suck properly. I get through a lot of braid cleaning up for SMD work including reballing BGA. It's annoying because braid not particularly cheap, even the crap stuff.
I am going through this right now. Wish I came across your video first before I watched another. That sad video did it a different way and ruined the board.
How did you get that one side of the board loose? Does it have to be soldered off? I wondering maybe I can buy an old unit take that side of the board off and just replace the caps the way YOU did it and I'll be more successful.
Thanks. No soldering required. It just unplugged from the heaaders.
@@razenby I can't believe it. LOL.. I am not sure what a header is but I wish I just pulled it apart. I guess?
Have you ever repaired a Bose M1 Multi Room Interface or the display of the Bose P1 remote? The M1 has a similar capacitor issue and the luminescent sheet of the P1 display is a pricey repair for a simple sheet of luminescent paper. Would love to see a video for both of those repairs! Thanks for the great videos sir!
Is the back light a piece pf electro-luminescent paper? I have fixed a couple. By the looks of it it is usually a simple fix. . If you can send me one i''ll take a look at it.
Interestingly the C21's polarity is reversed, at least according to the print on the board. Misprint or?
Strange... I haven't noticed that. It wouldn't last long if the polarity was wrong...