leebob great advice. We all have our methods to the madness...at the end of the day, whatever system works to get the job done is good by me. Take care bud, happy wrenchin'
JDE, woohoo, hammer down, I can't today. Believe I have a bent axle, seal ain't a leakin, just makin the brake drum rub the backin plate, I tell ya wut...
The axle is probably straight. guessing the axle flange is the bent part, don't know if you ever can get them 100% true again. Notice any vibration in rear?
JDE, yep its the flange. Take break drum off put in gear see it all katty wompus... Vibration, more grinding noise form drum... turning 3200 rpm at 100 mph. Would like a 3.08 gear. Do 100 at 2500 rpm. A good rpm, for those cam lobes, ya think
Great job showing how it’s done and what it looks like. I’ve adjusted thousand on Honda 4 cylinder engine. I’m rebuilding a 350 with comp cam. I needed to see how it’s done IF I have to readjust them once I start the engine. Thanks again.
Yes Riley...we are all about the safety. you should not have a problem. you might have to place a cardboard shield on both sides of the straight six to prevent splatter. Good luck.
Perfectly safe yes. The reason I did this was because I have engine noise...still do...a clacking or ticking sound that seems to go away when everything warms up. Oil Pressure remains consistent...at idle low pressure, at operating speed and rpm pressure is high...and back and forth depending on demand on engine.
They seemed to be super tight to begin with ... looked like a lot of turns on the wrench to loosen enough to here the clack ..... you would think they would start to clack after the half turn if they were adjusted correctly to begin with ..... good thing you adjusted them .... I think they were to tight before you adjusted them ..... thanks for video
actually, they were probably correct before he touched them, would have been better had he read a manual or 2 and left them alone, that exactly how not to adjust valve lash and preload... :/
You are correct. This is a few years ago now. My video editing has come a long way. Also, my attention to safety has improved... at times :-) Thanks for the comment.
My engine has a high volume oil pump. It's shoots more goo than my pant pushrod shoots.... lol. I use Mr. Gasket pushrod oil deflectors. They clip onto the rocker arms, bada bing bada boom you know.
it makes a mess, if you can get ahold of an old valve cover, slot cut for the ratchet... a lot cleaner... there is an alternative method where you can adjust the valve lash without running the engine.. :]
@@idoewannautewno 😆 when I was early on in my channel I was looking for content and this seemed interesting. I'm still struggling, however, I think the story telling in the newer videos has improved lots.
I hear what you are saying, however, my engine has lasted 10 yrs this way, however, I have gone through 3 transmission rebuilds in same time period....
Is that from adjusting while running the engine. I'm having difficulty with adjusting mine. I had a blown head gasket redone everything and adjusting is kicking my butt. I heard adjusting while running screws up the cam can that really happen and does this mean I should adjust with engine off?
I'm going to say yes to your question it should have no bearing on the process whether the lifters are solid or not. Have you heard of the youtube.com/@TheDrivewayEngineer?si=LGV16xgeQHAjDDCE
i did this on my 99 vortec 350 loosened till it started tapping and went a half a turn and it makes noise still on both sides. its a really light tapping noise any ideas greatly appreciated
To be honest...I am not sure...you have done the process correctly. Turn engine off. feel the rockers and determine if there is still slack...shouldn't be....also don't want too tight...sorry can't be more help. good luck sir...
+TheGMlover1 I have same issues. Did this because I had engine noise to begin with. Went through this process thinking I would eliminate the engine noise. However, the noise is coming from within the engine, ticking, tapping, seems to go away when everything is warmed up. I think it might be a spun bearing, can't say for sure.
Buddy had same noise like your video. It was a sticky lifter, I added 1 quart atf3 fluid into the oil and let it idle for 30 mins. We then drained the oil and noise is gone and engine clean....
spun bearing is the worst case scenario. just as likely to be a sticky lifter. my 4.3 developed this noise after sitting for a year or so. the oil wasn't super old or contaminated. so my best guess is lifter tick,Then rod knock
spun bearing isnt going to stop''knocking''if anything is worse when the engine is hot,i would say a bad lifter,i would add a quart of lucas with the oil change and why are you using 5w30?then let the engine get to temp,then try adjusting,the nuts on yours are a locking type,the more you keep adjusting them the less they hold their position,depending on the age /miles on that engine may be time to rebuild
You might have excessive exhaust because you have an engine problem. My exhaust system has an "H-Pipe" or balanced if you will where both sides meet just after the Headers and another piece of pipe joins both sides of the exhaust. If flows nicer that way supposedly. If I see any excessive smoke, it would come out of both pipes, but that just indicates another issue in the engine.
@@sirsylk likely your intake gasket did not seal. This will pull oil into the intake from the lifter valley causing smoke from just that side. If it wasn’t smoking before you installed the intake, that’s more likely your problem. Much cheaper and easier fix than a full rebuild.
The process should be the same. it is a mechanical device that needs a small amount of adjustment to remove slack that may have occurred from time ware and tear vibration etc...
You can do this to any vehicle, that 2.5 l engine, The Iron Duke, as it is known as, you absolutely can do this process while engine is running getting to that Zero Lash point, and tightening from there... I found a great video for you to check out...>>> czcams.com/video/Y9LjFmRQBjk/video.html
Thank you for the concern my friend... even if my arm gets caught up in the fan and gets torn off, the Good Lord has blessed me with a second one... God Bless 😀 And besides, it's got a clutch, I can hold the fan still, while engine runs... You worry about you, and I worry about I There's a reason I wear long sleeved shirts hoodies sweaters etc... 😀😀 It's a warning system to let me know I'm getting kinda close....
YOU ARE SCREWED UP TAKE IT DOWN TO WHEN IT STOPS CLICKING THEN GO ONE HALF TO ONE FULL TURN. HI PERFORMANCE ONE HALF TURN EVERYONE ELSE ONE FULL TURN. YOUR ADJUSTMENT IS WAY OUT OF THE PARK. + OR - 20 THOU. YOU SHOULD HAVE COUNTED THE TURNS BEFORE IT STARTED CLICKING. TO GIVE YOUR SELF A BASE LINE. UNLESS YOU HAVE ADJUSTED THEM BEFORE THEM THAT WOULD BE A WAIST OF TIME. YOUR NOT ADJUSTING MY VALVES. REMEMBER IT HAS TO BE AT ZERO LASH BEFORE YOU ADJUST THE LOAD.
I'm sorry I never replied to you earlier James. I appreciate your comments and you are probably correct in your assessment of my adjustment and I appreciate why you wouldn't want me to work on your valves 😀😀😀 Practice does make perfect and that was my first valve job. I did drive that engine for 20k (still running strong) before I sold the truck. I should have kept it. Running a Cruze 1.4T currently and doing a PVC bypass from turbo to intake. Take care my man, Thanks for your input and will watch for that, or should I say Listen for that... 0 Lash and count from there. 🙂
The process u have done just can't understand what settings u had it at with the torque wrench and what all u was doing? Or even how it was done with non locking single bolt, cardboard was a good idea yes, but seeing the video looked like it was Frankenstein's head and u was the surgeon working on it..... And a duck Couldent compaire with the quacking noise that motor made, over all good job!
+John g didn't use a torque wrench, was solely based on sound lifters were making. Did some research on-line, found out Mechanics were doing this process, so I followed in suite... Thanks for your input.
Warmed up for 10 min... should be at operating temp. Go do your beer shopping, when you come back home do your lash adjustment. Then drink the beer :-))
I was taught loosen till clatter, tighten till clatter just stops, then only quarter turn, gives perfect pintel depth.
leebob great advice. We all have our methods to the madness...at the end of the day, whatever system works to get the job done is good by me. Take care bud, happy wrenchin'
JDE, woohoo, hammer down, I can't today. Believe I have a bent axle, seal ain't a leakin, just makin the brake drum rub the backin plate, I tell ya wut...
The axle is probably straight. guessing the axle flange is the bent part, don't know if you ever can get them 100% true again. Notice any vibration in rear?
JDE, yep its the flange. Take break drum off put in gear see it all katty wompus...
Vibration, more grinding noise form drum... turning 3200 rpm at 100 mph. Would like a 3.08 gear. Do 100 at 2500 rpm. A good rpm, for those cam lobes, ya think
Great job showing how it’s done and what it looks like. I’ve adjusted thousand on Honda 4 cylinder engine. I’m rebuilding a 350 with comp cam. I needed to see how it’s done IF I have to readjust them once I start the engine. Thanks again.
Glad the video inspired you, gave you the info you sought out, bringing you hear. Good luck with uiji our project. Take care bro.
Yes Riley...we are all about the safety.
you should not have a problem. you might have to place a cardboard shield on both sides of the straight six to prevent splatter.
Good luck.
Yeah safe for the motor tho?? Should be. Doesnt look like it hurt anything on your 350
Perfectly safe yes. The reason I did this was because I have engine noise...still do...a clacking or ticking sound that seems to go away when everything warms up. Oil Pressure remains consistent...at idle low pressure, at operating speed and rpm pressure is high...and back and forth depending on demand on engine.
Great basic and seample explanation job Man🔥🤟
Thanks for the comment. Have fun
🍾😴
They seemed to be super tight to begin with ... looked like a lot of turns on the wrench to loosen enough to here the clack ..... you would think they would start to clack after the half turn if they were adjusted correctly to begin with ..... good thing you adjusted them .... I think they were to tight before you adjusted them ..... thanks for video
BART NovaGuy You're not the only one to say that about the bolts being "Tight"....thanks for the input.
He was barley turning ratchet
@@1PatientIt's been a while.. but thabks for being cool man.
actually, they were probably correct before he touched them, would have been better had he read a manual or 2 and left them alone,
that exactly how not to adjust valve lash and preload... :/
Prep before you start, watch those fingers, and plz! No loose fitting shirts. C'mon Man
You are correct. This is a few years ago now. My video editing has come a long way. Also, my attention to safety has improved... at times :-) Thanks for the comment.
lol dude you're a hoot and a holler. your explanation on half a turn was hilarious.
CommunityStraightUP ikr 😂😂
i wanna smoke a j with this guy
I like the cardboard idea.
That's how I do it.
My engine has a high volume oil pump. It's shoots more goo than my pant pushrod shoots.... lol.
I use Mr. Gasket pushrod oil deflectors. They clip onto the rocker arms, bada bing bada boom you know.
Cardboard always works
it makes a mess, if you can get ahold of an old valve cover, slot cut for the ratchet... a lot cleaner...
there is an alternative method where you can adjust the valve lash without running the engine.. :]
Good job man ,
Not the right way ! Back off until you hear clacking then slowly tighten until clacking stops then go three quater turns !
Pure rocket science 😂
SpaceX Science 😃 Thanks for viewing.
Indeed. I knew it was rocket science I wasn't 100% sure of what caliper of rocket science it was but spaceX caliper makes sense. 🤔
@@idoewannautewno 😆 when I was early on in my channel I was looking for content and this seemed interesting. I'm still struggling, however, I think the story telling in the newer videos has improved lots.
You are teaching the people wrong man
It was my first attempt. I have learned much since the video was originally made. 😃Thanks for viewing.
you are taking years of life off your cam never ever adjust your valves this way does irreversable damage to cam and lifters
I hear what you are saying, however, my engine has lasted 10 yrs this way, however, I have gone through 3 transmission rebuilds in same time period....
Is that from adjusting while running the engine. I'm having difficulty with adjusting mine. I had a blown head gasket redone everything and adjusting is kicking my butt. I heard adjusting while running screws up the cam can that really happen and does this mean I should adjust with engine off?
I didn't know John Malkovich turns wrenches....
It's Amazing what a good actor can do on screen huh 😀😀😂
Thanks for replying. Have a good day.
its not like the clacking noise when you loosen it its smaller than that
Would I adjust solid lifters the same way? Thanks Lyle
I'm going to say yes to your question it should have no bearing on the process whether the lifters are solid or not. Have you heard of the youtube.com/@TheDrivewayEngineer?si=LGV16xgeQHAjDDCE
No, different process...this method is for hydraulic only..
i did this on my 99 vortec 350 loosened till it started tapping and went a half a turn and it makes noise still on both sides. its a really light tapping noise any ideas greatly appreciated
To be honest...I am not sure...you have done the process correctly. Turn engine off. feel the rockers and determine if there is still slack...shouldn't be....also don't want too tight...sorry can't be more help. good luck sir...
+TheGMlover1 I have same issues. Did this because I had engine noise to begin with. Went through this process thinking I would eliminate the engine noise. However, the noise is coming from within the engine, ticking, tapping, seems to go away when everything is warmed up. I think it might be a spun bearing, can't say for sure.
Buddy had same noise like your video. It was a sticky lifter, I added 1 quart atf3 fluid into the oil and let it idle for 30 mins. We then drained the oil and noise is gone and engine clean....
spun bearing is the worst case scenario. just as likely to be a sticky lifter. my 4.3 developed this noise after sitting for a year or so. the oil wasn't super old or contaminated. so my best guess is lifter tick,Then rod knock
spun bearing isnt going to stop''knocking''if anything is worse when the engine is hot,i would say a bad lifter,i would add a quart of lucas with the oil change and why are you using 5w30?then let the engine get to temp,then try adjusting,the nuts on yours are a locking type,the more you keep adjusting them the less they hold their position,depending on the age /miles on that engine may be time to rebuild
In dual exhaust,would misadjustment cause excess exhaust smoke from one side?
You might have excessive exhaust because you have an engine problem.
My exhaust system has an "H-Pipe" or balanced if you will where both sides meet just after the Headers and another piece of pipe joins both sides of the exhaust. If flows nicer that way supposedly. If I see any excessive smoke, it would come out of both pipes, but that just indicates another issue in the engine.
@@1Patient appreciate it. Just upgraded to an edelbrock intake and now i have a bit of smoke from driver side pipe. Seals/rings more than likely.
@@sirsylk likely your intake gasket did not seal. This will pull oil into the intake from the lifter valley causing smoke from just that side. If it wasn’t smoking before you installed the intake, that’s more likely your problem. Much cheaper and easier fix than a full rebuild.
So is that safe to have the cover off cause if it is I also want to know if it works for a straight 6 in my international
The process should be the same. it is a mechanical device that needs a small amount of adjustment to remove slack that may have occurred from time ware and tear vibration etc...
+1Patient sweet thanks
Olá seu comando é original?
What oil are you running? oil started to flow out of the pushrods pretty quick
AMSoil Synthetic, I think it was 5W30...
lol hard way but good tv
Entertainment for the Mind 😉
Wow, a loose sleep hanging down by the fan and belts. I couldn't watch.
oh you would be surprised how safe I can be, Yes the sleeve was caught a few times....but it's all calculated
Can I do this on a 1991 s10 2.5l?
You can do this to any vehicle, that 2.5 l engine, The Iron Duke, as it is known as, you absolutely can do this process while engine is running getting to that Zero Lash point, and tightening from there... I found a great video for you to check out...>>> czcams.com/video/Y9LjFmRQBjk/video.html
My lord working on a car ver a moving fan. Buddy do the other things before you touch the rockers.
Thank you for the concern my friend... even if my arm gets caught up in the fan and gets torn off, the Good Lord has blessed me with a second one... God Bless 😀
And besides, it's got a clutch, I can hold the fan still, while engine runs...
You worry about you, and I worry about I
There's a reason I wear long sleeved shirts hoodies sweaters etc... 😀😀 It's a warning system to let me know I'm getting kinda close....
YOU ARE SCREWED UP TAKE IT DOWN TO WHEN IT STOPS CLICKING THEN GO ONE HALF TO ONE FULL TURN. HI PERFORMANCE ONE HALF TURN EVERYONE ELSE ONE FULL TURN. YOUR ADJUSTMENT IS WAY OUT OF THE PARK. + OR - 20 THOU. YOU SHOULD HAVE COUNTED THE TURNS BEFORE IT STARTED CLICKING. TO GIVE YOUR SELF A BASE LINE. UNLESS YOU HAVE ADJUSTED THEM BEFORE THEM THAT WOULD BE A WAIST OF TIME. YOUR NOT ADJUSTING MY VALVES. REMEMBER IT HAS TO BE AT ZERO LASH BEFORE YOU ADJUST THE LOAD.
I'm sorry I never replied to you earlier James.
I appreciate your comments and you are probably correct in your assessment of my adjustment and I appreciate why you wouldn't want me to work on your valves 😀😀😀
Practice does make perfect and that was my first valve job. I did drive that engine for 20k (still running strong) before I sold the truck. I should have kept it. Running a Cruze 1.4T currently and doing a PVC bypass from turbo to intake.
Take care my man, Thanks for your input and will watch for that, or should I say Listen for that... 0 Lash and count from there. 🙂
You did ok but next time where a sleeveless shirt but other than that your ok in my book
Appreciate your care and concern my friend... 😀😀
my sleeves are what protect me 😀😀😂
He doesn't need your phuken approval. You tard.
Is this a video ...on hiw to clean..your intake...
No. This video is intended for Valve Lash Adjustment. There is a series of them.
Seems like the prior builder was using one FULL turn... hmmm...
Tony TonyTony if that's the case, those are OEM specs on a GM Turn-Key Crate-Engin, hopefully what I did was more typical of what should be spec'd.
The process u have done just can't understand what settings u had it at with the torque wrench and what all u was doing? Or even how it was done with non locking single bolt, cardboard was a good idea yes, but seeing the video looked like it was Frankenstein's head and u was the surgeon working on it..... And a duck Couldent compaire with the quacking noise that motor made, over all good job!
+John g didn't use a torque wrench, was solely based on sound lifters were making. Did some research on-line, found out Mechanics were doing this process, so I followed in suite... Thanks for your input.
😬
Your not doing it correct
What is your secret recipe for this Louis?
Those last tappers u were going full turns the way it's supposed to be...u had me so confused...but hey if it works ...for u ...get down brither
Should this be done on a warmed up engine? Or doesn't it matter?
Warmed up for 10 min... should be at operating temp. Go do your beer shopping, when you come back home do your lash adjustment. Then drink the beer :-))
@@1Patient sounds like a plan!