Comparing $10,000 to $250 3D printers using Fiverr!
VloĆŸit
- Äas pĆidĂĄn 7. 09. 2024
- As a finale to my series on creating miniatures on Fiverr we are comparing 3D printed miniatures who are made on $10.000 3D Printers to my home printer Phrozen Sonic Mini that was $250 at purchase. Here's a 3D print Fiverr link: bit.ly/3dtay6b
If you're interested in using the service of any of these printers please follow my Fiverr Associate (Fiverr kicks back money if you follow these) links to help me and the printers out:
Geckopainter $30 to $380 - bit.ly/3nXUUon
Sezereth $25 to $200 - bit.ly/2GOFimn
Pandaprinter $30 to $420 - bit.ly/34Slw18
My recommendations on Fiverr - www.fiverr.com...
More 3D print services on Fiverr can be found here - bit.ly/3dtay6b
đ Support me on Patreon: / squidmarminiatures
đïž Late pledge (pre-order) Squidmar BUSTS and brushes: www.squidmar.c...
đ Squidmars website for full list of gear I use: www.squidmar.c...
đ Order Squidmar Merch: teespring.com/...
đïžEU/UK hobby store affiliate - Reference code for extra store credit: EMI7383
elementgames.c...
Amazon Affiliate Links to stuff i use(As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases you do after following this link - at no cost to you):
Canon M50 (the cameras i use)
USA: amzn.to/2MWGIN9
UK: amzn.to/2PBlkyT
DE: amzn.to/2PA1Nio
CAN: amzn.to/2MTqaoT
Anycubic i3 Mega (the FDM printer i use)
USA: amzn.to/2FSRDly
UK: amzn.to/2xu0Hsz
DEUTSCHLAND: amzn.to/2JdquvX
CANADA: amzn.to/2YA95CW
HARDER STEENBECK EVOLUTION SILVERLINE (the Airbrush I use)
USA amzn.to/2ZO6HrI
UK amzn.to/2Ll5LGm
GERMANY amzn.to/2LmurOD
CANADA amzn.to/2NGv3S2
Phrozen Sonic Mini (the Resin printer I use):
Worldwide: phrozen3d.com/...
USA Amazon: amzn.to/2FuFsyl
Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k
Worldwide: phrozen3d.com/...
Emil on Social Media
Instagram / ageofsquidmar
facebook / ageofsquidmar
Twitter / ageofsquidmar
Painting miniatures for your warhammer & d&d games. Age of sigmar and warhammer 40k. Space Marines, Space Wolves, Stormcast Eternals, beastclaw raiders, ogor mawtribes, cities of sigmar, chaos space marines, painting scale models, miniature busts! How to paint NMM. How to paint warhammer, how to paint d&D figures.
Really great video, Emil! I think it's important to remember that these are masters for busts - and things like layer lines really matter here vs. a monster mini for my home D&D game, that I'm perfectly fine having some visible layer lines if it means it gets tabletop ready faster. Even then - we're getting pretty close, and with hand placed supports and orientation to minimize those kinds of layer lines, I'm super excited for the future. Looking forward to your experience with the Sonic 4K, too. Big hug man!
czcams.com/video/f2lP-VD1x48/video.html around 1:53 Sam use a product to get ride of the mold lines so this could be useful
Phrozen sonic mini has 4k version now.... And its incredible cheap. As far as I printed miniature there is not obvious printing line at all.
I'm the only person in the world who doesn't paint the printed models. I prefer the plain grey.
Just bought the Elegoo Saturn as my first printer, and I'm sure the results for what it costed are insane. I waited so long to have larger volume, high resolution 3D printers available. Never even considered 3D printers until now. Also very affordable. No need to pay for 10K 3D printers figures! :D
Like the detail on this and how hyped you yourself even are, you might want to consider cutting a deal with this guy. Like "I will buy you another one of these printers for you to use all you want as long as when I place an order with you, you prioritize having mine made on it". You could do a whole series on 3d printed models that you paint. Just crazy things you would never see being mass produced. Doing a series on that you would probably make your money back on the videos alone. Hell you could even sell them after you are done to make a couple bucks back.
I've tinkered with a Anycubic Photon for a couple years now and I think if you adjusted your cheap printer to the lowest layer height, slightly higher cure time, and also used a gray or other really opaque resin you would get better results. It would take forever, but I don't think you're giving it the best chance it has.
I was going to say the same thing. The expensive printer prints are obviously amazing, but I think the top quality settings on Emil's printer might be closer to it than the ones in this video. It definitely would take a long time, but not as long as waiting for something that might just get lost in shipping, lol. A video comparing different printer settings would be interesting!
@@FunbobbyJ Agreed. A photon on the thinnest layer thickness and with grey resin can definitely do better than that especially if some care is taken in choosing part orientation correctly. ((a $189 USD printer as of today!) Still not as good as the 10k printer, but as you said he may not have given his little printer the best chance it had to shine.
I agree. In fact I think its the post processing that has really made the difference as opposed to the actual print quality. Still working on my post processing game, I can get amazing results but its very labour intensive.
more than layer lines it's about aliasing rings, but that's affected directly by resolution, so the Sonic Mini 4K running at 20-30u layer height should be able to match those pro grade printers res wise. (should also be noted that the old Sonic Mini has relatively low resolution at ~80um pixel size, while the Photon is 47um. The selling point of the old sonic mini over other MSLA printers in the same price bracket was print speed, not resolution)
BUT one of the biggest factors which make a difference between those printers and these cheap MSLA printers is the forces involved in printing. On our MSLA printers like the photon, Mini 4K etc, there's quite a lot of force in the peel action, which can affect the printability of delicate stem-like features and leave lines at parts where the print transitions suddenly from small surface area to large, especially if the print has thin walls, and make it necessary to use a high support density which translates to more noticeable pockmarks. To avoid these artifacts, the pro grade printers use better peeling mechanisms, or employ designs which don't need peeling (top-down printers)
So with good tuning and experience, you'll be able to match the quality of those printers with a mini 4k for just about all prints that don't need low peel forces, ie- you won't be able to tell the difference with minis, ie- there's no point in using those printers for masters for minis, 90% of the time, because their advantages come in elsewhere (like precision and material properties for engineering/medical parts)
Definitely agree
when your shirt has more printlines than the minis, you know that technology has really evolved
Except for shirt making technology
Hahahajajajaj a
3D printer used cost $50k.
Ay I got the same one, big up H&M
I have the same shirt
I'd expect a HELL of a lot better quality for something 40 times the price. _Especially_ when you consider that once you paint it those minute lines disappear.
At first I thought the prints themselves were 10,000 $ and I was confused...
Ah yes...every video title on CZcams is purposely misleading these days.
You're not the only one. [ Click Bait ]
that's intentional, clickbait
And gets another dislike just because of this. No thanks for wasting my time!
Clickbaiting, a classic
You can def print just about just as good on a 250 anycubic photon. In your photos it looks like you aren't using any antialiasing and you could make the layer height much smaller. I can't see layer lines like that on anything that I print on my anycubic photon.
Fun Fact: A $10,000 printer is still in the hobby category. Professional starts at 50k for the printer, with 100k being sort of the standard.
As a fellow dad, I admire how you find the time for these things. Keep it going.
Its professional grade printer, its not about the price. There are industrial printers that cost A LOT more though, but they have a different purpose ;)
@@SquidmarMiniatures I think its perspective. If you have a $250 printer 10k looks professional grade, but if you have access to 500k printers a 10k printer is junk you try stuff that might break the printer in.
In that respect we are both correct.
@@tando6266 You're right. I used to work in the industry. While the high and highest end enthusiasr/hobby systems can deliver pro-level product, the real professional printer products are just insane. However, the human skill in supports, slicing and post processing is the key to professional level product.
@@tando6266 Couldn't have said it better myself. I work in the dental implant industry and we use 3d printing for temp models for placement, we have some that are in the 30k range and it's night and day from my photon but we were looking at others in the 100k range that were insane and we're indeed night & day from the 30k one.
@@tando6266 I would make the argument that the 10k dollar machines are professional, but not industrial. It is the kind of thing (like Emil said) that a jeweller or someone else might have and use as a part of their work, but not what a company who's main thing is 3D printing would use.
Why does your shirt have a picture of my parents fighting on it? đ
lmao
@@Miscast rofl
:D
Huh?
Am I dumb cus I donât get it
I would love to have seen how the phrozen sonic mini 4K compared since the resolution should be closer again. Its clear that there is a difference in quality between yours and the more expensive machines, but I don't think it will be long before low cost 3D printers are comparable to plastic minis!
That first print just has a wrong orientation... People just forget that it is made up of flat layers... Also, no data on layer hight and so on... But of course proffesional printer would be a lot better
Agreed I'd really like to know what layer height Squidmar is printing at on his Phrozen
Yeah he could really come a lot closer even at home to the professional print. Just takes a bit of time. Thank God most people don't have the time, patience or confidence to sit and really figure out how to run printers or there would really be no non-industrial market for 3d printing services. The $400 resin printers come so frighteningly close to the $8k printers (though they are definitely worth the price) that it's just not funny. The quality gap is pretty small which is reassuring.
I guess he printed at 0.05mm layer height. I print 28mm miniâs (from the biggest tabletop company) and i use 0.02 for hard edge models and sometimes 0.01 for miniâs. I use the anycubic photon and have 0 vissible layer lines!
@@nordinvandenbulk6882 same story here. Oriented properly and at .02 I get no lines on the photon. It handles even really busy minis very well if you setup the print properly.
Same here, I usually print at .02 as well and layer lines are a non issue
"This one is huge! " 6:00
Not sure what he was referring too there were many huge things on screenđ€Ł
It's amazing how many people comment, then watch the video, then don't edit their comment! lol. Solid video man, always look forward to the content you produce.
Very interesting. Once you've been doing your own prints for awhile then this is the next question. What gains do I get from the higher quality machines when the quality from a cheap resin printer is already amazing. Especially when you compare them to your filament printer and realize how far this tech has come in such a short time.
What the next 20 years will bring.
higher quailty machines give you just that a machine that will be a workhorse it will rarely run into issues and can keep on chugging for days but for a lot of hobbyist myself included paying 2-5k for a machine that will offer very little difference in print quality is just not worth it.
Thats Crazy I have a photon and I dont have crazy lines like that. Might wanna dial that printer of yours in.
@@GPOLICE if a resin printer starts getting worn out, a bunch of various issues might arise. But visible layer lines is not one of them for sure.
4:56 he got the printing lines as well but maybe he used some kind of smoothing (maybe acetone) that works pretty fine
yeah, i saw printlines on nearly every mini. I dont see the point of buying such an expensive printer for minis when you can fix most of the problems the cheap one has quite easy.
@@ianhpete Just buy a resin printer and you wont have any lines at all
Just to point out, the advertised 5 micron is only for the Z axis, itâs 25 for XY.
thats not how resin printers work. just saying
I'm predicting a $500 machine in 5 years will best these . Better optics , resolution , better software ( possibly someone will throw neural AI at it ) - better resin , better control of all parameters etc - You can buy a photo printer that will best for $500 than will beat older tech. Projectors , tracking telescopes , quadcopters . Saying that for throwing some minis on a table - the ones we are printing are fine - given the viewing distance and light source . however the top ones will print more textures , maybe even print real looking eyes with arteries and translucency - print epi-dermal layers - print hard and soft features etc - print internal working bone structures and ligaments- that will allow models to be reposed in a far more natural way
What is your layer height? I use .03mm on the mars. Which can go as small as .015mm and that's just the standard mars. Alot of these expensive printers can be dethroned with a cheaper one. Just need to be better about supports. And higher quality resins
8:16 "i can't see printing post work" uh i can see a bunch of support nubs and pits on the shoulder blade
I would be furious if I payed those prices for some of these.
No kidding, those support nubs were all over the model. At first I thought, maybe he's not mentioning the support nubs because they should be on every print and were probably taken care of by the first guy. Then he goes and says, "I don't see ANY support nubs" and I just can't anymore.
4:42 What layer height did you print at? If I print at .01mm I can't see any layer lines.
I appreciate you sharing g all of this.
$200 for a print on a $10,000 printer. You would need to buy 50 prints before you would have been better off buying the printer yourself, and that is excluding resin cost, which is not negligible. Very impressed. Quite economical.
That orc came out just WOW
Why does the necromancer look like jazza?đ
All those very expensive printers do suffer greatly from a "diminishing return law", as they are 10x more expensive and definitely not 10x better.
I think that describes the "elite" top teir of EVERYTHING. I would be hard pressed to think of any area that did not apply...
Well, of course. They produce the best 3D prints possible, ergo they are the most expensive
@@beerenmusli8220 He meant that they are desproportionately expensive for what they deliver, compared to cheaper choices. Which is true, but that applies to many many fields. When you work in anything industry related you notice it right away. Past a certain point a very small gain in precision costs thousands and thousands of dollars.
@@heinz8233 I am aware. How is that contradictory to what I said?
@@beerenmusli8220 What you said is not contradictory, just not very relevant. The thing is not that they are the most expensive (which as you say is obvious since usually better=more expensive), but that they are *disproportionately* expensive.
Interesting to see the differences. Please do post the follow up on the Phrozen 4k! :)
What might also be interesting is to give someone that is a home printing specialist like Greg (3d printing pro) a shot a producing the best possible results. No offense intended: But some of your prints looked a bit rough and I think there are better results to be had at home. Thanks Emil!
Yup i reckon a sequel video where other people that use cheaper printers had a go to the best of their ability and see who got the best results.
Like most things, cost rises exponentially at tolerances decrease. It will be interesting to see what printers (home, and pro) look like in 5 or 10 years.
You have to film yourself painting them as I'm super excited to see it.
The resin makes a big difference. The industrial blend resin usually has a very low shrinkage (0.5% range). So the fit of the model parts will be very good. Details too. Try the new 4K resin from Phrozen, it's really higher quality resin.
Without having seen the full video yet. I cant think of any printer beating the Solus. I hope I am right.
Its really a close call i must say, the Asiga is crazy good - i'm impressed by both.
@@SquidmarMiniatures czcams.com/video/f2lP-VD1x48/video.html hay this video may help with the mold lines around 1:53 he starts to talk about a product that should get ride of mold lines you may want to check it out
I get the same quality with my Phrozen Transform. It doesn't have to be a $7k or $10k printer
This is very informative, thanks for the work putting this together
Add pigment to your resin. It helps stop light bleeding. Giving you much cleaner edges.
Add pigment, spread on baking paper and cure. Hold up to light if still see through add more.
Has anybody in the entire history of CZcams actually clicked on a banner link?
I'm watching this video because I chose to, why would I leap to another video just mere moments in to the one I intended to watch?
I have wanted a 3D printer for a long time but seeing the printing lines make me wonder if it's worth it. Someone pointed out that for their gaming purposes for smaller minis the less expensive printers are fine. Also, someone mentioned the settings could be adjusted to help eliminate or lessen the printing lines. For those of us who are more interested in minis for our games, it would be nice to have a comparison of different printers.
The new epax and sonic mini 4k can be super smooth with anti aliasing. It does make it slightly less detailed but still insanely good
The 4k phrozen is 35um and I assume the one they have is 25um so there's still a little bit for LCD dlp printers to go but they're goddamn close.
Have a 4k coming. That once I figure the thing out, prints will probably be closer to the pro stuff than the cheaper stuff (and honestly, even the cheaper stuff isn't bad) is really exciting.
@@bencoomer2000 The main thing being if you're just using them for tabletop miniatures, most people are going to be looking at them from several feet away. I doubt you'd notice layer lines once they were painted up and slapped down for playing D&D.
Thanks to all your video my Avatar in a MMORPG is now a 1/6 Figurine.
Something must be wrong with my eyes, because I see printing lines on everything, including your shirt!
You could easily sand yours with very fine paper, a rotary tool etc to get your quality close to the expensive ones.I would say the quality is actually already decently comparable
13:42 little part of the hair is broken to the left of the expensive printer print, pretty sure he knows.
Broke in shipping :)
@@SquidmarMiniatures đą
@@SquidmarMiniatures Yeah but for 10 grand it should have been packed so that there was no way it would break.
@@DollyOmegaX it didn't cost 10 grand
Please try sonic mini 4k, I just got one 2 weeks ago and it's phenomenal! Guess that you can get very close result with high quality resin.
Bro, insane I wish I had an extra 200-400 bucks to spend! Love the stuff squidmar!
Im pretty sure the expensive ones would still have some layers line post print and they just did the alcohol chamber thing to smooth it out.
What I would like to see is both the home printed and fiverr printed models painted up the exact same way to see what they look like.
Yeah that would be optimal, but also I can't spend 120h one a video hahađ
I remember a channel called node did a video making an alien gun from 3d printing and Sam used a thing to melt the surface of the print to smooth it and melt away the printing lines so you may what to check it out squid
It work only with ABS plastic, not with resin. Resin printer are precise enough, the print line he got is his fault, it's printed with too much layers high and wrong orientation.
@@SaitoGray thank you for the information
I'd really love to see 3D printed miniatures of some of the characters in the great movie "Alita Battle Angel"! :)
Yeah that would be epic, the models would be extremely detailed.
There is even much better than this. I saw recently, at a factory, a color printer. It basically reproduces smoothly an object with photo quality details in color! It just blew me away.
Iâm even more excited to paint the Orc. /mini-me Orc!
Why didnt you try treating your prints with heat/vapoured smoothing?
And TBH, Your prints were 9.5/10 anyways.
I am actualy printing on a "MAKE3D" 3D printer that costs 29.000 ⏠with a carbon infused nylon filament that comes around 250 ⏠per 800 cmÂČ. And there is carbon fiber inlays between the layers, too.
Professional printers have different qualities but mostly a professional printer đ
With adeguate knowledge and good resins you could match the same result on a home printer..
For diminishing returns laws you can easily guess..
I wanted to give you crap about being click bait-y, but then I saw the opening and this is info I actually need. I am looking i to buying prints and need to know this. lol
lol, its easy being angry before seeing the whole picture right ;)
@@SquidmarMiniatures Ok. Angry is a strong word. More like a friendly ribbing. :]
I cannot wait for your models to show up, they are going to be so fun to paint
That $250 printer is really holding it's own for being so cheap. I probably need one. That Solus though, omg that thing is brutal. The detail is frickin amazing. Thanks for the video, always good to see what I wish I could do but what I *can* actually do if I want to throw the money at it. :-)
Cool video! I'd like to see you do this again with a 4K+ Mono resin printer. I have an Epax E10 coming in a couple of weeks. I intend to upgrade it to the 5K screen after I've used it at 4K for a while.
Always good to see your videos and I really enjoy your Fiverr series. I must admit I'm a bit puzzled by the result of your own prints though. I just got a Phrozen Sonic Mini, same like yours, last week and have been printing since. Using Elegoo Water washable grey (white at first, what a terrible mistake) a notoriously challenging resin to work with that isn't know to produce particularly good prints and within a couple prints, I was able to dial in my settings to a point where I... don't see print lines of artifacts - at all. Point in case, I have to look under a (crappy) microscope to evaluate print quality using the Amerlab test model. Detail sharpness is not perfect but pretty close to and that's at 0,05. 0,03 further adds to the sharpness. To be honest, I consider those prints extremely close to GW levels and that's with 'bad' resin, the cheapest printer on the market and little to no skill :)
This video inspired me to print D&D figures on my FormLabs Form 2 using high temperature resin (what I have in it). High temp resin from FormLabs is VERY expensive, but it's a also a high resolution resin. Since the Form 2 is SLA, not DLP, the resolution is substantially higher, but also substantially slower. I believe that the results I produced by printing at 0.025mm layer height produced much better results than what I saw in this video. I have access to a Form 3L as well, and I'm tempted to try printing these on there as well since it's supposed to be much better than the Form 2. I didn't say all this to be competitive, it's more that, for what you paid, you can often buy a Form 2 used online these days for less than what you paid for those prints and you may want to consider doing so ... and I recommend using FormLabs Gray Pro resin which I think you'd love :) p.s. I have no connection to FormLabs
Do you think using the same resin would be better way to compare them?
Okay, I'm really confused here. I have an Elegoo Mars Pro (not even the 2) and I have none of the issues you were having with your personal prints. Sure, it doesn't look as clean and crisp as the multi thousand dollar pinters...but I don't have the layer lines, I don't have the jacked up prints...no support marks...they come out clean and crisp. I think the key thing we need to know is what settings YOU'RE at to make an accurate judgement of printers. Because...you're obviously running some wack settings, or you have a really bad printer.
Thanks for dropping the Knowledge.
If the title wasn't so deceiving I would probably have subscribed.
Ok
You might be surprised by the results using the Ender 3 and CR10 series FDM printers.
I get accused of using SLA, because I have found the settings to get really good results. Often better than the "make" by the STL designer when I print designs from Thingiverse.
Hey, your printer has a lot of layer lines, so I'm wondering if your using Anti Aliasing
I donât know if itâs a thing in printing or not but itâs funny considering gaming settings
I think this is why Form, which is a good printer will need to rethink their price point - $4000 for an SLA printer is pricing themselves out of the market when you can get a pretty good larger format Elegoo Saturn for $500
Yeah the new 4k mini printers are really crazy good
I like my mini 4k. It's super nice and crisp
Your vids helped me a lot when I was starting out.
So home SLI printers have a way to go. although if the item is painted then it doesn't really matter that much.
"I waited 6 month"
two mins in the video "if I had more time I could reprint it" XD
As you paint them all, can you then still see the difference between the expensive and the 250 dollar printer?
Yes, heck without going over the surface painting them can make the issue worse as the layer lines and newton rings becomes more pronounced. Now you could go over the surface with some polishing compound but that would also soften any sharp edges.
It's inresteting to try to print the same models on Prusa i3 mk3s plus. I'm going to buy one later. I'll do the same test once I get it.
My Bene 4 mono prints to his quality also, the 4k makes a difference in the fine details I reckon.
You see a lots of layer line from what i see. Did you print at the same layer height that they use because if you print at 0.05mm and the professionnel printed in 0.01mm it's a big difference.
I dont think my printers could do 0.01 to be honest ;) thats one of the differences if you pay 20x as much haha.
@@SquidmarMiniatures you can do 0.01mm with the phrozen sonic mini it's gonna take more time and you have to ajust the exposure time to have great detail
get higher dpi printer. Also adjust your layer heights. You'll notice an immediate difference in your prints from before.
3D print stores should be a thing, that would clearly lower GW's insane price's.
Why have a bricks-&-Mortar store in the age of internet ordering?
we can buy these toys from local market which are Industrial Quality Printed and painted.
Did you ever try re-printing the figures with the Photon 4k mini? I would appreciate an updated comparison if you did.
I looked at a $700,000 printer from Germany. I asked for the price and he told me they ranged from a VW Golf to a House.... :) Insanely detailed prints and made for the medical industri.
They do look marginally better as expected. The question would be, after priming, do those lines even show up? Or do you have to sand to get the same quality?
those printing lines look cool, like a finger print
What do you mean when you say "improve your skills in 3D printing"?
I have never 3D printed, so not sure what it involves. Is it improving the CAD, materials used, post printing touch ups or do you mean something completely different?
Great video, thanks!
3d printer have a tons of setting and each one of them can potentially make a difference in the final result. It's not like pressing a single button ;)
Now to do a follow up video with the new 4k printers that are coming out.
Looking back, that orc turned out as the best design. Fantastic. Seems you get what you pay for for sure. they do look quite small as far as busts go. I"m used to 1/6th 1/7th scale
Damn, it's to bad you didn't use the 4K 3D printer as that's the standard these days for resin printers.
I'd really like to see how these expensive miniatures compare against the Sonic mini 4K.
I know you'd definitely gain a lot of views for making a 4K printer and 1080p printer vs the fiver "professional prints" prints video.
Yeah i got the printer like a few days after we recorded it
Interesting but the video has a huge flaw: since the models will be pairing, the comparison should use the pairing versions. I assume that with a layer of paint, the difference will become minuscule.
I just really enjoy printing, would love to print one of these for you see if I could match their quality
your shirt was printed on an fdm printer. i can see the layerlines hahahahaaha ;) cheers man
Geckopainter is an incredibly awesome person! I've actually talked to him way before I saw this video, so it took me a minute to wonder why that name sounded so familiar!
1:50
Emil: The miniatures that we're using
Baby: F U C K
I guess Squidmar printed at 0.05mm layer height. I print 28mm miniâs (from the biggest tabletop company) and i use 0.02 for hard edge models and sometimes 0.01 for miniâs. I use the anycubic photon and have 0 vissible layer lines!
TBH you won't even see most of these details once the miniatures are printed, so a follow-up video of these miniatures cleaned up, greenstuffed to even out flaws, and painted to a high standard would be the real decision maker here.
I guess its all a matter of handling, experience and settings. but I am sure you can increase quality of print with every 250⏠printer. Also the different types of resin have an impact.
Agreed. There's no reason he can't match those by messing with his settings. I could match that given a week with my standard mars and some jewelry resin
While yes, of course a 10k printer does a better job, but >50 times better? nah
For under 200 bucks this printer is a steal imo. Especially when having it tuned and using good Resin :)
I'm pretty sure I can come EXTREMELY close to the gecko prints with the sonic 4k, quality resin like epax hard or ameralabs, and hand tuning supports. The resin and hand tuning supports matters a lot. I've easily gotten that level of detail on prints though. If you're interested, hit me up and I can test one -signing whatever nda you want for an stl.
Youâre absolutely right! Love your channel too
I would say that dor most, the quality of the 200 is so good vs the money spent it is the better alternative. You can always get a better print with each gen and optimization but resin printers have come so cheap that the extra cost for the finer detail isnt justified really
you can get a Formlabs 2 or 3 printer and get the same quality print as that 10k printer.
Hey squidmar. If you use the period in $10000 it makes it look like 10 usd haha
Interesting. I've recently started buying prints from a local service as I wanted to get my hands on some of the Artisan Guild sculpts and was positively surprised by the quality. I thought they were using one of the cheaper printers and that maybe I could get one somewhere down the line if I want more minis but now I think they must have a real pro model.
Nah just get a mars pro 2 and learn how to calibrate it properly and you will be golden. Its really not hard to get amazing prints without layer lines.
I'm likely to be buying one of those 250 resin printers I already have a filament one, but it doesn't do detail that I wanted for small things.
I NEEEEEEEED that Orc!!!
Not a single dwarf print! What a shame, they were the best out of all the concept art
hopefully in 5 years you can purchase a $200 printer with the quality of those professional ones.
Great to see the difference between the two type of printer, one thing is you can get a much better quality with your 250$ printer Emil, you just need to spend a bit more time figuring how to dial the setting :)
i'm also really curious about the post-process of those guys with those expensive printer, i wonder how much step they have to do in cleaning for this kind of result.