Remember new engine have a tight bushings on the crankshaft so full synthetic oil will not feed through well cause to rub each other hot. Need to wait about 30000 miles then can use it
@@DS-TRUCKS I m talking about bushings bearings in the crankshaft where the Pistons bolt togother this most important part for oil go through. The full synthetic oil can't not go in the bushing very well when the engine is new but the full synthetic oil is ok for rest engine no problem. This why need put many miles first before use synthetic oil that all.
The composition of current oils contain approximately 15% additives, each oil manufacturer and automotive company have specific blends of proprietary additives for their products or standard fill factory oils. The entire engine development process including 1000's of hours durability testing and many component modifications is done with the standard fill oil. Oil and Automotive manufacturers do not share their additive packages make-ups due to the amount of research required to develop them. Using any oil other than what the manufacturer designed the engine to run is a bad idea!! Also never mix different brands/grades of oils because the additive packages may be incompatible. If you want to learn about oil go to the American Petroleum Institute website
I run the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend oil and Motorcraft filter for my Excursion and E350 van and change it every 5k miles. Both trucks perform really well.
In the 70's I was managing a fleet of gas-powered vehicles and we became a test fleet for Mobile 1. This included good record-keeping by us and scheduled lab sampling sent into them when they requested it. The results were amazing but that will have to wait for another time. We never saw a gas mileage increase, but we did instantly see enough better cold-weather starting even in North Dakota that we no longer ordered the vehicles with frost plug heaters. The synthetic really earned its keep when there was a cooling system problem that overheated the engine before the driver recognized the problem and shut it down. Even lawnmower engines can be toasted by a mouse building a nest in the cooling fins. To this day, I run Mobil1 in any engine that is too expensive for me to want to replace and that is all of mine.
Good for you. For 20 years I buy the cheapest full synthetic with the right specs and viscosity. Never any issues with any of our cars. Oil change interval is MUCH more important than the brand used.
I have used nothing but full synthetic oil in all my cars since 1971 and they were all new when I bought them. I ran the synthetic from day 1 in all of them. I never had a single problem with any of them that was oil related.
I did the maintenance on a fleet of courier vehicles. We had all Fords Fiesta's, Focus's, E-Series vans & trucks, and etc! I used the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend oil and our interval was 4000 miles religiously. I resisted going synthetic for 2 reasons. Some vehicles had some idling time and conventional oil absorbs moisture better than synthetic. We wouldn't see the vehicles unless they were in for service. The shorter oil change interval meant that the vehicle had to come in and be looked at. So many times we would catch something ready to fail at a service. The company owner would rather spend money in the shop than have it towed back and a driver losing valuable time broken down. In my 25 years with the company we never lost an engine. And the tow company we used would have gone broke if we were his only customer.
@@DS-TRUCKS I got a question let’s say u wanna run full synthetic in ur car I have an 04 Ford Mustang 3.8 v6 an it’s has some mileage on it how much is 300K an I’m kinda going threw a head war which I should use for it bc all I do is got to work an back now Ik y’all said synthetic blend‘s fine but an if u ran full synthetic it would loosen some things up possibly but what if you just wanted to run it an I just won’t the best for my vehicles idc if it does cost a lil more to make it run better I just won’t wanna get ever inch I can outta what I can an i just really would like ur guys opinion or ur friend that’s had 20+ years experience with ford motor company I’m sure have some experience
I lol'd, but your comment made me curious so I looked it up. Royal Purple was founded in 1986, where as Barney and Friends ran from 1992-2009. I'm fun at parties.
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The best oil is clean oil period! I have a buddy of mine with his 1999 F-150 with 350K and changed his oil religiously. That truck has never seen a wrench under the hood. He also uses premium but that's for another video. :)
@@curtis1951 he probably means no major issues besides basic maintenance. Half our work fleet trucks have this sort of mileage and no big issues other than idler pullies, belts etc.
As a retired master automotive technician, I agree. The most important thing you can do as a vehicle owner is to follow the manufacturers recommended oil change intervals using the recommended viscosity and API rating . Synthetic motor oils do not break down molecularly. They do become overloaded with contaminants over time. Hence it is very important to follow the recommended change intervals. Motor oil is the life blood of your engine. If you want to have your engine last a long time, change your oil regularly along with your oil filter. Use a quality motor oil.
You're retired but when you were a technician manufacturers probably didn't have unreasonable oil change intervals as they do now. Look how well it worked for Toyota and their 12k mile interval in the 2.5? What about GM's lfx? GM reeled the oil life monitor back to 5k in a recall due to timing components failing early, during warranty even. The MFG recommend interval must be reasonable, with a reasonable viscosity too, these days I don't trust them due to CAFE. I change at 5k with a true full synthetic matter what. I guarantee I will never have an oil related failure.
Dustin in the 80’s Toyota has two versions for oil change. Severe service 3750miles and regular service 7500 miles. We always recommend 3-3500 on oil change and Castro’s 20w-50. Many got over 200k on them following these guidelines. That was southwest Houston traffic. One of the worst in the country.
@@dustin9035 Todays oils are far superior than in the past due to synthetic and semi synthetic. When using Mobil 1 synthetic long life motor oil, Toyota says you can go 12,000 miles between oil and filter changes in the 2.5 L 4cyl engines such as in the 2015 Toyota Rav 4. I reccomend changing the oil and filter every 6,000 to 7,000 miles. The cleaner you keep your engine oil the less deposits you'll have into the main and rod bearings. In general, no matter what you drive, you can't change the engine oil too often.
Good advice. Never trust the dealer. Web their recommendations are questionable. Heck, Toyota doesn't even have a recommended transmission fluid change or drain.
3 years ago i bought a 2003 F-150 supercrew that now has 249,312 miles on a 4.6 V8. Its never had any engine, transmission or rear end work done to it. I bought it from a friend that bought it brand new in 2003. The only oil he ever run was Mobil 1 full synthetic, as do I. This truck still runs excellent and I hope it will make the 300, 000 mile mark.
@@jaureguixp i have never had any trouble with any ford 4.6 or 5.4 Triton V8 engines, ever... Pulled 6,000 lbs up Wolf creek pass in Colorado with this very truck. My brothers Jeep with a worthless 318 V8 had big problems pulling a loaded 5x8 uhaul trialer up. Fords are by far the best trucks on the road.
@@jaureguixp The 4.6 is a great motor and they are very reliable. My brother had over 380k mile on his Thunderbird with a 4.6. I've had 3 different mustang's all with a 4.6 and never had any issues with either the sohc or dohc.
I run full synthetic in EVERY engine I own. I'm a retired nuke worker. Sat in MANY lube classes. SYNTHETIC is the only way to go. I say it in wet situations , HOT , and long term. I'm sold..
Thanks for the info you put out there! I know this is an older video, but it's still helpful. I just bought a 2017 2.7 ecoboost with 12,000 miles on it, literally driven by a grandpa, so I am doing the research on maintenance so I can make this thing last as long as possible. While watching this video, I got my owners manual out to see what Ford says. The recommended oil is semi-synthetic, but they say as an option, use full synthetic. Usually, if Ford allows you to choose a "LESSER" option, they will say "If this particular part is not available, you can use xyz in it's place", but the manual didn't state it that way. I'm interpreting the way it is worded in the manual as the semi-synthetic is a minimum standard, and the full synthetic may be better. My guess is that a lot of people won't pay for the more expensive option of using full synthetic. So at a minimum, a synthetic blend is recommended, which will be better than regular conventional oil, which they DON'T even give as an option. The fact that the minimum option is a synthetic blend should say something about what kind of oil would be best. But......I can NOT get on board with waiting until the oil change light comes on.....7,500-10,000 miles?? There's no way I'm waiting that long!
I personally only use Pennzoil Ultra full synthetic but deep down i know that frequent oil changes are what really helps with long engine life. My uncle had a 4runner with 380k miles and that thing was spotless when i removed the valve cover for a gasket change, he used any regular dino oil that was on sale and changed it every 3k miles.
My friend had a Chevy van with 327,000 miles on it. He used Dino oil every three thousand miles same as your uncle. The van engine was running great but the tranny was on its way out so he traded it in.
Exactly right. People think there’s some kind of magic oil out their and they are absolutely nuts. You take care of your vehicle and change your lubricants regularly and you will be just fine. I laugh when I see people have this argument. Way to many factors involved to blame or praise a particular oil for long engine life or catastrophic failure.
I have bought new and used vehicles, some with almost 150k. I always used full synthetic with wix filters and have never had an engine issue yet in doing so. The increase in cost even for used vehicles, is worth helping reduce the wear at that point regardless what wear an engine had in its previous miles. As others have said, just change your oil regularly, use a good filter. Simple enough.
@END TIMES I wasn't trying to be sarcastic or insult you in anyway. I just thought it was funny what you wrote. I'm just not political at all...Non-Political. I couldn't care less who's president...opinions vary and people are going to say, do live, etc. the way they want. Just like me...Just do it Legally! But I must say this..."I'd rather reign in Hell than serve in Heaven!!!" Just me personally. But I do understand what you mean...We live in some really f&*ked up times nowadays. And I said this before and will continue too...I'd rather be stuck in the 80's than forced to live in the 2020's!!! Stay Safe!
Full synthetic oil is the same as synthetic blend their both petroleum base oil with synthetic additive package. Only a100% oil like Amsoil or Redline and a few more are the best
I have used full synthetic oil for almost forty years. In that time, I never had engine problems and gained in mpg. Many people could get by using synthetic blend but will not get the benefits and security of using full synthetic.
I have a vehicle with 300k miles, used conventional oil up to 60k miles, then swapped to Mobil 1. To this day it does not burn any oil. Been a great engine because of Mobil 1 synthetic oil. If you swap to synthetic, keep in mind it will desludge your engine so you need to do a few quick oil changes to capture the sludge but you will be good to go after that.
@@DS-TRUCKS I have owned the vehicle since it was new. The engine only had 60k miles in it at the time wheb I switched to synthetic, but was running great. I was doing oil changes between 3k and 5k miles with conventional. The only issue I had is it developed a couple of oil leaks shortly after which I fixed. The positives besides longevity is better fuel mileage due to less friction, easier starts in the winter months. It currently has 295k miles, my son drives it every day. The engine runs as good today as it did 26 years ago when it was new. Very impressed with the durability I have been able to get with this engine. Synthetic oil is worth the money.
this is the best comment. anything put to clean the engine...you need to get the stuff out. do anything oil change. same thing using seamfoam or the shell nitro gas.
I had a 1996 Ford Escort 1.9 l I used full synthetic From the day i bought it until the day i got rid of it 10 years later. I had a Valve seat let go at 107k miles. It was a known problem with those cars and that head. When I replaced the head the bores in the cylinder at 107 k mile still had cross hatch and no ridge on the cylinder. I swear by full synthetic and its the only thing i use. I did oil changes at 4000 miles. I also put full synthetic in my old cars as well 1965, 1968 and 1971. And i have gone from Full synthetic to standard oil and back in the old cars with no issues.
I use full synthetic oil in my ford fusion 2016... since it was new..since dealer say i can go 10 thousand miles..so i did mine at 5 thousand.. don't change at 10 thousand..is my opinion..no more then 5 thousand..at most ..i have a lift in my home shop..so i do my own now..after warranty expires..i use ford motercraft..from day one..full synthetic.when i drain my pan...its clean,still.
Itsme Dude you just gotta get a really good filter 😆 my caddy leaks about a quarter every month and topping it keeps my oil clean for a long time. I use Pennzoil platinum on all my cars, it's $22 bucks a gallon at Walmart.
I had a Mazda rotary race car, very tough on oil, high RPM and very hot. Oil analysis on conventional race oil after one race was always bad. Switched to synthetic and I could do 4 races and the oil was better than one race with conventional. My contour SVT had over 200k miles, on Mobil 1 5000k oil changes, changed the valve cover gaskets and the cams were like brand new. Conventional oil is for the lawnmower, I actually use synthetic on everything I own.
Synthetic oil has better boundary lubrication, meaning it will prevent metal to metal contact. Conventional oil has 300-500psi and synthetic has 3,000 psi before you have metal to metal. Synthetic oil also flows better and creates a better hydrodynamic film where the bearing services rise up on a bed of lubricant like a surfer rides a wave. Great video!
1987 ford f150 351 Windsor with 700000 one rebuild. Conventional oil only. Yes its true. Texas is a big state and driving this beast to the farm out of Dallas.
Před 4 lety
You were probably using 30-40w oil as well since he viscosity makes a bigger difference than conventional or full synthetic. Also older 90's oil was a bit better than new oil since it had more zddp so it protected better but because of emissions they cut it down a lot and it still had all the additives and detergents. Sure there are other elements in anti wear but slicing the zinc by half from a few decades ago and thinning the oil and making the engines run hotter from 180 to 210 degrees also makes the oil even thinner and last less just so the engine can make a bit more power.
The oil "can be" anything you claim if you're simply making up information. The real question is, what is the exact formulation, and what is the additive package as opposed to Internet speculation?
Exactly he is a mechanic not an engineer. He did not design the engine or the lubricant oil. He thinks he knows more than many highly educated engineers . Absolutely not
Pennzoil platinum 5w30 with motor craft anti draining oil filter valve for my 2010 ford f150 4x4 crew cab platinum with 5.4 Triton with 140,000 miles, runs quiet, better than new sound
I use Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum because its the only oil that seems to never burn off. I ran M1 Extended Performance for years in an older car and it always lost about a quart by oil change time..changed to PUP and never had that issue again, so I use it to this day.
Getting rid of sludge in an old engine isn't necessarily a bad idea. My very first car was an older car with an engine that was only, worn, and loaded with sludge. About six months after acquiring the vehicle, I changed it to a full synthetic. After a test drive around the block, the oil was as black as I have ever seen oil. It wasn't black when I put it in and I was concerned that I had done something very bad. To my surprise, the fuel economy improved by almost 40% The engine still runs to this day with over 100,000 since that oil change. So I still go full synthetic, even in older cars. Old cars, not junker cars. There is a difference.
The "dont use synthetic during break in" myth is crap. Many cars come with Mobil 1 as factory fill. Any new vehicle that takes 0w20 oil has to be synthetic.
@@SalivatingSteve You can't, but Castrol JUST came out with a 0W20 in synthetic blend. It doesn't have the dexos rating on the oil so it can't be used in the new 5.3L GM truck engines, but it can be used in pretty much any other 0W20 required engine.
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For my diesels i use Rotella T6 full synthetic. I once used the "blend" and the engine sounded like a old typewriter. Powerstrokes get this wierd ticking sound if they dont like the oil. For my Powerstrokes its Rotella T6.
My Dad had a 95 GMC 2wheel drive suburban he gave it to my sister with 438 thousand miles on it. Oil he used, Pennzoil 10/30 conventional oil. He trailord various street rods and drag cars up to 80 mph, distances up to 2,000 miles. I thought he was crazy, he changed the oil between 3,000 to 5,000 mile intervals. I can only imagine the caked on sludge in the engine as Pennzoil is notorious for that in my experience, but the odometer don't lie. And this is a 5.7 liter gas engine.
I doubt there is any sludge if it was changed on those regular intervals. I used mobil conventional oil in my 96 explorer and at 280,000km the inside of the oilpan was clean - regular 3000 mile intervals. No wear either.
Motorcraft syn blend 5w30 for my liking. I have used synthetics for 10 plus years and I'm going back to Motorcraft syn blend. It's one of the best oils that I have used.
Molybdenum! I've used valvoline full synthetic in the last 4 new SUV's or pickups that I've owned! The last one was a 5.7 hemi, my stepson now has it with 417-k miles. I had an 02 Durango with the 5.9 it's still in service with 400-k miles. Even with the full synthetic I change oil every 5-k. Just saying!!!!
The reason the top end sounded better for you with the Mobile 1 is because it has a much better velocity index. It worth synthetic just for the increased VI, but there are many other reasons too. Peeps don't cheap out on oil.
Same, since 1990. Several cars with multiple hundreds of thousands of miles on each. Engines are spotless inside when I took the valve covers off. Literally like brand new. No sludge, no varnish. No oil burning. I use nothing but full synthetic, even in my lawnmower. Engines are complex and very expensive. If you want it to last, use synthetic and lawn to change it yourself. It's easy.
been running mobil 1 since 2006 , at 230,000 trade it off. engine ran great , never plug in in the winter, never needing a boost , even at -43.been running on our new 2017 since 1st oil change, love it. as for changing over with a older car, mobbil1 makes an oil for older cars canging over to help prevent the gasket falling apart.. i enjoyed your video
I put a full synthetic shell hx8 5w40 in my astra 20001.8 gasoline engine. After 1,000 miles no oil consumption, no leaks, engine works better than before. My Engine had 285,000 kms!(~180,000 miles)! The strange thing is I looked under the cap and the top was gold clean! I think I just got lucky It didn't leak, but now I have better working engine and I must use only full synthetic oil and also the same brand-because some full synthetic have different additives and I don't wanna risk anything! Very useful video, thank you from Bulgaria🇧🇬
@@DS-TRUCKS As long as an oil has the recommended 'API' Ref letters that are stated in your Makers Manual that what goes in there ...be it Amazon, Walmart or whatever ........Best oil is clean oil...www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil/eolcs-categories-and-classifications/oil-categories#tab-gasoline
Sludge is mostly caused by not changing your oil often enough. Insufficient warm-up and cold weather cause condensation which leads to sludge. Synthetics greatly reduce sludge. Several manufacturers now use full synthetic oil as the factory fill and do not specify any special oil as a break-in oil.
All I know is I had a 2011 3.5 Ecoboost that I had the oil changed at the dealership when the oil life got to 20%. They always used the Motorcraft blend and by 50,000 miles when you looked at the cams though the fill hole everything including the dipstick had an amber varnish on them that I had never seen before. I use full synthetic since then and have not seen that varnish on my 5.0s.
Thats not Motorcraft oil your running. Last I checked ford makes cars, not oil. Its made by citgo. Nothing special. Its simply rebadged oil, like any private label brand. You would be better off running wal mart super tech synthetic. Its better and probably cost less.
All Ford gas engines we own, Mobil 1 since first change. 07 Fusion with 318K miles no issues. Rotella T6 in the diesel trucks they start in Montana winter.
Just to add another pt. You can get Motorcraft Full Synthetic as well. It's well rated & very good for the price pt . I use it exclusively in any brand vehicle I own. 8.99qt from Summit Racing! 💯
It’s $26 for a 5 quart jug of Mobil1 full synthetic at Walmart. But last time I went to Autozone they had a $30 special that included a free oil filter, so it ended up being cheaper for me doing that.
@@SalivatingSteve Sometimes I see their rollback price has all of the Mobil 1 products for just over $23 at times (Mobil 1, EP, and Advanced Fuel Economy). The only one I've seen that's never that cheap is the Annual Protection, which Walmart is currently discontinuing. My local Blain's Farm & Fleet usually has it cheaper than all of the auto parts stores, especially when they have it on sale in conjunction with the rebate, but you're right, Walmart is usually the best price. I've also seen that they now have this new 12-qt. box for about $52.
I work in automotive quality. I can tell you from experience the goal of the manufacturer is to get you through the warranty period with no issues. Also to have it last long enough for you to develop brand loyalty and come back for your next purchase. I will NOT go the 10k mile recommended oil change interval for my vehicle. I change my oil every 5k miles. I plan on going well beyond the warranty period and doing my oil more frequently will help it meet my longevity expectations.
My Dad had teach me a long time ago that no matter what you have just take care of it and it will take care of you. 3000 miles oil changes, brakes half life replacement, and his tires would dry rot before they wear out. At 250000-350000 it would sounds like brand new. The paint on his vehicles was a different story through.
I agree although at 73 years old I don't expect to get 300,000 on our current vehicle which only has 43,500 on it now. But when we're gone it will be good for one of our children or grand children.
2015 Chevy Silverado with the 5.3 V8 engine, always took her to the dealer to perform regular routine maintenance, this last time I notice my truck was running a little sluggish, and it wasn't due for an oil change for another month, or 1,500 miles, and my (MPG) was dropping like crazy, so finally, I decided to change the oil myself, and use Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic with a Puralator Boss oil filter, and within two weeks, my MPG almost doubled, even when driving around town. To get the best performance out of a vehicle, it's better to make sure to use the best product available, Full Synthetic Oil all the way!!!!!
@jbean530, exactly, they must have used conventional or cheap synthetic blend motor oil with the AC Delco oil filter, the life expectancy was at 60% according to the information center in my truck, before I changed it. My truck is my daily driver, to work and home, so I don't drive her hard, and I don't tow trailers, so I was extremely surprised to see her poor performance, and that prompted me to perform the maintenance my self with good reliable oil and filter, and my truck is running way better now with improved mpg..
You know dealers & quick lubes use a one dollar oil filter and the cheapest crap oil out of a barrel or tote they can get to maximize profits. The only thing they care about is getting you back as soon as possible for another oil change and a chance to upsell you on anything else they can wether you need it or not. they will at least tell you need a belt or wiper blades or something, because even with the cheapest possible components there isn't alot of profit in oil changes
@dennis rantanen, I guess I had to learn that lesson the hard way, my philosophy was, "who knows the vehicle better than the dealer?" That theory didn't work, and everything you just mentioned in your comment is absolutely true! My (MPG) is still improving, and I am hearing less engine noise, no piston slapping, she is running very smooth, from now on, I will perform my own routine maintenance and stop increasing the dealer profits. I know for certain what's going into my truck would be quality stuff for best performance!
I have a Chrysler LA 318 that had sketchy conventional oil changes up to 40K. There was moderate sludging on the valve decks, in the valley and the pan, and moderate varnishing. I said, "Well, it'll either clean the galleries and the rest of the varnish out gradually, or it'll plug the galleries and I'll rebuild it. In went PZ 10W-30 full synth, and off we go. First change at 3K, scads of varnish plaque and bits of sludge came out. The filter was was getting pretty full of crap. Next change at 6K, less in filter, less in pan. Following changes showed less and less. Oil consumption about 1 qt. In 12K, projected, both before and after. The engine now has 236K on it. Pulled the heads to clean up the valves...NO sludge, No varnish....engine looked new inside. Bore taper .0005 to .0007 on all. Popped up the pistons to re ring... NO carbon in ring lands, NO scuffing or varnish on skirts...the rings were still functional, but replaced with factory. Mains and rods still within factory tolerances no shells showed gouging or debris wear, but I rolled in -.0002s or STDs to close up oil clearances. The pump screen showed no sign of plugging due to removed sludge of varnish. Only thing worn was the timing chain, and that's common to any Chrysler LA of that vintage. I fully expect this engine to run 500K before a rebuild. CAVEAT: Full synth will cause FelPro stock positive oil seals to swell and leak in short order. Switched to Victor seals, no problems (Chrysler OEM). CONCLUSION: You CAN switch to full synthetic on fairly neglected engine of fairly low mileage...but you'd better keep an eye on things for awhile. I have a '97 Navistar T444E (Powerstroke] that has run DELO 400 15W-40 since new. ChevTex has now changed their formulation to a synth blend. My injector tips stay cleaner. 175K mi., some heavy towing work, mostly moderate loads, oil consumption 1 qt. In 8K, projected. Drain interval 4K. DELO has come a long way from the ashless Diesel-Electric Locomotive Oil that Standard Oil of California designed for the GM and EMD 2 strokes in 1937.
@@DS-TRUCKS ...and thanks back for posting this important topic using a Ford engine service professional as well as your personal experiences Getting good information out there without a personal agenda or opinion is a service to all.
For the sake of all things mechanical... better oil provides better lubrication and a cleaner engine... it's a scientific fact. This debate has been over for decades. Even older engines benefit from better lubrication and higher detergency. In fact, the older the engine the better the oil it needs.
My take is if you buy an engine full of sludge u need to run conventional oil for a few shorter intervals to gradually remove sludge. VS going full synthetic right away & releasing a torrent of sludge that can plug stuff up. A new motor not spec'd from the factory for synthetic is going to have WAY too much detergent from synthetic. Even so in a 50K mile motor.
@@williscurry6557 You're not wrong... but I had a 1971 Ford 351 Windsor that the original owner ran straight 30 weight non-detergent Valvoline in for 80,000 miles. There was over 10 lbs of black build up under the valve covers after a year of marvel mystery oil, CD2, synthetic oil and an engine flush... While it's in fact true that after 50,000 miles on synthetic oil the engine was spotless and looked like new, it took years to fully clean the sludge the Valvoline created. While any fresh oil turned black within a week of putting it into the car, it really didn't do nearly as much cleaning as it was the product advertised. Next time you tear down a filthy motor try to was the parts in motor oil, even synthetic, you will be surprised how little detergent oil really cleans over the short run.... Long run, yes... but we're talking about thousands of miles. My advise is to get the best oil into your car ASAP, but advise is free... and synthetic oil costs more, your call.
Every time I've tried using full synthetic oil in my 350 Chevy engine that has been rebuilt it has caused it to start using oil and leak worse than a 350 Chevy usually leaks. I think proper engine maintenance is more important to engine longevity (plus having a well designed engine to begin with) than what oil you use in it, assuming you follow the manufacturers recommendations for oil weight, etc. Old Volvos from the 70's and 80's (before synthetic came out) are famous for going hundreds of thousands of miles before needing major engine work done to them. Maybe new cars benefit from this pricey synthetic oil but old cars sure didn't need it to go a long way.
Those old volvos also have a specific output of about 30kwperlitre. And those stories of longevity are just that. Stories. Its always an old guy who forgot about the headgasket at 100,000 kms etc etc. Who knows how much work theyve ACTUALLY had done. No way to prove it. We had old peugeot diesels with 800,000 kms on the clock still drove like new. So? They were serviced from new by our workshop to the factory spec. These days its up to 80-100kwperlitre. They NEED that excellent synth oil. Use the best oil you can afford.
When I switched to super tech full synthetic from Walmart on my 5.0,over motor craft blend... I no longer got engine lights at 40% of oil life and my fuel economy went up as well as the engine sounded better!
I've got the 2013 F150 what the of 5.0 engine . I've been using motorcraft Full synthetic since 14000 miles, now at 40000 I did an oil sample, Blackstone labs. The report was a glowing report that showed the engine was way below what would be expected as far.as wear. Motorcraft full synthetic..
I be built plenty of race motors full synthetic from the start. Chevy 355 with over 400 passes on it at 8,000 rpm. Not one failure. Tore it down to change set up and the bearings absolutely had no wear. A rod is correct-about the synthetic oil molecules. Also synthetic oil is a high detergent in a way that it cleans the engine. Mobil 1 was created for NASA for aircraft. The original blend was really not compatible with other oils and did cause issues with older generations of engines. I prefer Chevron Delo 400 synthetic (aka Motorcraft oil) in my 7.3 and 6.0 powerstroke engines. Proven 400k miles no injector failures. Regular oil change at 5000 miles and synthetic change 8000 miles with a filter change at 4000miles. My Z28 ls1 has 265,000 on it it gets Mobil 1 10-40 high mileage.
I use full-synthetic on everything I've owned and have had a number of vehicles that ticked over 300K miles with no engine problems. Early on in my '03 Hemi I was using conventional and noticed some sludging. I mostly use Mobil 1 but have used Castrol if it was on sale. You can run much longer between oil changes with full-synthetic and the cost difference between conventional and full-syn. isn't all that much on an oil change. It might be a good idea to do a flush and a short change if you have sludge and then go to full-synthetic.
I have an old Ford 4.2 V6. I switched to synthetic oil at about 180k miles. I'm now at about 320k. I had to pull one of the rocker covers and I was impressed by how clean everything was. Absolutely no varnish, very little sludge. I've been changing oil at 7k-mile intervals, supported by used oil analysis. Whatever synthetic is on sale. Motorcraft filter. I've been using synthetic oil in all my small engines as well, and it seems to keep them very happy.
The Mobil 1 in this video isn’t a FULL synthetic. It’s a hydrocracked conventional and it’s certainly wasn’t what was used in the Space Shuttle. Learn the difference between group 2, 3 and 4 oils before giving your opinion.
I have a 2020 EcoBoost mustang and the first 1000 miles i chaged the oil to Mobil 1 and ill stick with it till i own the car it now has 3000 miles so from the get go i do agree to use mobil 1
Meh, on my work daily driver, it's never seen synthetic and has 350,000 and still runs like new. Keeping the oil clean and avoiding short trips is way more important.
Fact of the matter is the only reason yo use full synthetic is if your towing a lot and the oil is getting really hot otherwise as long as you change your oil every 5k it doesn’t matter what oil you use
What many ppl don’t know is synthetic blends aren’t 50% conventional & 50% synthetic. They’re more like 80% conventional & 20% synthetic. And some are actually 90% conventional & 10% synthetic.
That's very subjective because Motorcraft uses both synthetic and a Group III base. All Conventional oils are Group II. Regular Mobil one is Group III.
I know this is an older video now. However I have a 2009 5.4 in a F150 I bought new which was strictly dealer maintained with Motorcraft 5w20 through 2017. From 2018 until present day I do the oil changes myself using Mobil 1 5w20, always at proper intervals and using Motorcraft oil filters. To this day it runs quiet and smooth. Last year I had the Valve Covers off for the first time ever and was amazed at how shiny and completely clean and new looking it was inside with zerp build up or sludge. I didn’t know a 13 year old engine could look that good inside especially after seeing horror videos of sludged, dirty engines online. There is something to be said for spending a few bucks for regular oil changes.
I own and drive many cars / trucks and use Synthetics in some but not all... Years ago I changed to full synthetic Mobil 1 V twin oil in my Harley. With-in a few miles I developed a lifter tick, so dumped the oil out with only 30 miles, refilled with Dino oil and I have never had any more ticks and that was over 20 years ago! Then I had a Ford Crown vic that at 16,000 mileI changed to mobil 1 Synthetic and did 3K mile ( at the longest oil changes ) then at 54K miles I had valve seat leaks ( blue smoke at start up). Most of my fords and in my ram diesel I run simi synthetic oil but I do not do extended drain. My Hellcat I run the same brand of Synthetic it came with from the factory. All my small engines including the Harley I only run regular non synthetic, change oil once a year and have never had any lube related issues and most if not all my lawn mowers and Harley are well over 20 years old. I buy local old Police cars and the engines with as much as 160K that were fleet maintained with simi synthetic every 5K miles I find the engines still look new with zero deposits , sludge and such. If simi synthetic works in a high milage cop car, thats all I need and is what my Ford dealer suggest in all my Ford cars. I believe as long as you use the manufacture suggested proper weight and class of oil your book calls for, unless you live in a harsh winter low temp area ( Synthetics are great in ultra cold starts ) but change your oil on a regular basis simi- synthetic is good stuff and all that is ever needed. I personally will never use synthetic in small engines, just change the oil once a year and the lawn mower will rust out before the engine dies from any possible oil issues. My 2 cents...
I agree that you can't do anything about the first 50k if it had very limited oil changes, but why not do what you can with the best you can get now with full synthetic over conventional. And since Walmart has it at a very decent price, all the better. I would not waste money with a blend either, they can claim that it's a blend with 1% synthetic and the rest conventional. Pretty much a scam. And if you care about your car, best to stay away from FRAM products. Go Wix.
Thanks for the video, some interesting points. I’ve always used synthetic from day one and keep my vehicles until 150k miles sometimes, it’s always served me well..
All I know about synthetic was the rumor that it would cause gasket seals to leak on higher mileage cars that hadn’t been using synthetic prior. I put some in my Acura and Honda and both were leaking within a few thousand miles and had never had a leak prior.
Full synthetic oil is good if you worm up your car or truck to operation temps before driving and for long distance driving. If you are driving short distance driving and not going to worm it up at operating temps, than put a synthetic blend in it. 😁👍👍👍
Except neither of these oils are synthetic. The Motorcraft is a group 2 petroleum oil, and the Mobil 1 is a group 3 petroleum oil. They both came out of an oil well, not a laboratory! Only 1% of all oil is actually a man made product. Only group 4 Polyalphaolefin oils and group 5 ester based oils are really synthetic. As in man made.
Personally, in an ecoboost (GDI) engine my main concern is to use a low-volatility oil to try to help keep the intake valves as least dirty as possible.
Same here. That's why I'm running Rottella Gas Truck synthetic vs Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. The NOACK rating on Rotella is 7.4 while the Motorcraft is 14.7.
Dirty valves have little to do with which oil you use and more with where your injectors are located. For your oil to keep your intake valves clean, you would have to get oil onto the valves, which would mean that you would be burning oil (white exhaust smoke) and would have to top off the oil on a regular basis.
@@any0n378 Yes, agree. But..... the point is that with direct injection, it is oil that gets deposited on the intakes. I'm not using low-volatility oil to clean the intakes - it is the oil vapors that contributes to them getting dirty in the first place. I'm using it to help reduce the buildup. At least that was/is the hope. Although TBH I now pretty much clean them every oil change - they are very easy to get to in the Fusion.
I don't know what your last few vehicles were but some vehicles have been synthetic filled at factory for 20 years with most gasoline engines coming with synthetic in the last 3 years. The long drain intervals don't work with conventional oils for a lot of drivers.
Is there something you know about modern engines and synthetic motor oil that all the major auto manufacturers don't know? Practically every major auto manufacturer today does factory fill with synthetic motor oil.
EXACTLY he made this WHAT IF SCENERIO that was completely guess work and not backed by any data or science! if someone did run the car for 50K miles with 1-2 oil change I think its not just the oil you need to worry about.
My friend did testing on his Nissan titan with royal purple. He sent his conventional oil testing after an oil change. The testing company found nothing out of place. He added royal purple and at 3000 miles he sent some of the royal purple for testing. They detected high levels of lead and recommended to go back to conventional oil. Which he did.
I think it comes down to this, should I run full syn in my daughter’s Hyundai commuter? No. Should I run full synthetic in my new Ford Raptor TwinTurbo? Yes absolutely! Cost vs benefits. And I’ll spend the extra on Amsoil and drain before it says to because it makes me sleep better.
Umm, no. Just no lol Unless the oil in your vehicle has turned to sludge from doing 10k oil changes, even then the performance gain would be almost nil. Take two 2020 vehicles, one brand new and one just due for service, you couldn't tell which one had the used only by feel only 🤣 gtfoh
@@lonewolf2364 Agreed. You'll be surprised how much crap is collected during the winter time. My 2.7 got about a gallon worth over the cold months here in Michigan. Nothing in the summer time. Great investment! I suggest UPR products. Great build quality.
Dump some Engine Honey in it? Really this guy is a experienced ford Mechanic? And really, really good stuff, MotorCraft! Amateur hour! It’s never a bad time to run good oil.
I do Doordash delivery ( a REAL grind on a vehicle), and use Valvoline MaxLife full synthetic in my little Ford Focus to help keep my engine going. Especially during the harsh Michigan winter months.
Robert Maybeth 1 second ago Concur. On my previous 4 cars (1983 Nissan Sentra, 1988 Nissan Z24 pickup 2.4 L, 2001 Toyota solara 1FMZE V6, 2003 Camry 1FMZE V6) I switched back and forth with synth and dino (non synthetic) all the time. Like almost every other change. i noticed no difference in oil consumption or anything else. The Sentra had 180k miles when I sold it to somebody else for $450, still running fine. The Solara has 225,000 miles. and still going, the Camry has 200,000. All had their original engines although, the Nissan pickup got its oil changed every 3 months (usually Penzoil) but I used mobil 1 in the summertime. The pickup had a valve job at 200,000, at which time I tore it apart and found the engine whistle- clean inside, even the oil pan. More important the timing chain, timing gears, camshaft, oil pump, rod and main bearings were barely worn, the cylinders had NO ridge on top, near-max compression (AFTER the remanuf cylinder head attached of course since the piston rings were good) the only seriously worn part was the rubber on the timing chain tensioner, which I replaced. Engine leaked oil but did not burn any. I was in automotive work for over 40 years, heard repeatedly "never switch from dino to synthetic oil or vice versa because if you do it'll start leaking/ burning oil" but never saw any difference one way or the other. I worked for a huge government fleet for 30 years and 99.9% of the fleet cars just used dino, except once in a while our "fleet manager" would decide to experiment with the "synthetic vs dino oil" concept, we techs would be told to only use Mobil 1 in a few cars or trucks and to monitor the oil consumption if any. We were never told the results of these experiments so I never found out first-hand what difference, if any using synthetic oil in a fleet would make. The only remarkable thing pertaining to oil related engine failure that happened; in the mid 1990's there was one old Ford Escort of the fleet in which the driver did the truly astonishing. Somehow she drove the car in such a way to put a connecting rod (big end) through the cast aluminum oil pan. Apparently the oil light came on at speed and the driver just ignored it, and kept driving until the engine went kaboom. Anyway, in my long experience of both fixing and driving a sh$t ton of cars - it is probably irrelevant whether you use synthetic oil or dino that is the determining factor that determines if you squeeze the maximum life out of your vehicle. It is probably more important to use a shorter interval between changes, than it is to use synthetic oil. Unless you drive in very hot/cold climates frequently, in which case, to me the benefits of full synthetic (particularly a longer interval between oil changes) might be worth the higher additional cost.
In the 07 F150 FX2 4.6 that I had I bought with 102K on it. Drove it to 230K and only used castrol magnatec 5w20 with motorcraft filter. Only changed oil and filter every 15k. Truck still ran like new when I got rid of it. But it was 90% highway miles no idle time. 2,000 rpm for hours at a time.
But conventional does not last as long. According to my sources, Conventional begin to deteriorate around 2800 miles compared to synthetic. I have an import vehicle with a 1990s era engine. I use conventional but change the oil around 2500 miles. People talk about conventional oil like it is a junk product. In fact, it is a highly engineered product far superior to what the industry was producing even 20 years ago.
Hey I used full synthetic Amsoil one time. I would just stick to regular high grade oil I’ve been using for past 40 years. I’m not going to run my oil for 15,000 - 20,000 miles just because it’s synthetic. I have a new 2022 F250 6.2 which calls for synthetic blend I will use a synthetic blend high grade oil like Cam 2 or similar. Have you seen the Motor Oil geek guy. He’s a specialist in oil chemistry.
Well buddy, being a Tech for a lifetime it does not mean that you have some kind of expertise with Oil at a molecular level, you better ask to a Oil specialist from Mobil 1, check the video of Engineering Explained, the is one related specifically to this topic
The dealer is pushing their oil , that’s what they do, many new cars now use 0W-20 which is 100 percent synthetic. Just because it says Motorcraft don’t make it the best unless your a blind ford guy and it makes you sleep better at night.
@@2damaxmr2 well you have 2 options, pay someone to change the oil and filter which is expensive now even at jiffy fast lubes or Walmart’s ( who I would not trust ) or a dealer that will probably cost more OR.. you can do it yourself at cost which is what I do , I frankly can’t afford to pay someone to service all my machines, that range from 4 wheelers, to Kubota tractor, to Harley’s and 2 trucks, an suv and a auto. . 2 big advantages, you know it got done right and you still have your shorts when the job is done lol
The tech makes a good point. you have to ask is it really necessary. If the engine can use conventional oil then its just as good as synthetic if you change your oil/filter properly. Dont wait for the computer to tell you when the oil is used up. And there is more to it. you can technically use synthetic in a old car. And alot of people using synthetic wait too long to do oil change which causes sludge. synthetic is also better in cold climates during cold starts. read your owners manual. And synthetic is never good for the breakin. however, obviously the vehicle is brand new and the proper oil would already be in the truck from the factory !
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Remember new engine have a tight bushings on the crankshaft so full synthetic oil will not feed through well cause to rub each other hot. Need to wait about 30000 miles then can use it
@@pauldonnelly6691 what's?
@@DS-TRUCKS I m talking about bushings bearings in the crankshaft where the Pistons bolt togother this most important part for oil go through. The full synthetic oil can't not go in the bushing very well when the engine is new but the full synthetic oil is ok for rest engine no problem. This why need put many miles first before use synthetic oil that all.
The composition of current oils contain approximately 15% additives, each oil manufacturer and automotive company have specific blends of proprietary additives for their products or standard fill factory oils. The entire engine development process including 1000's of hours durability testing and many component modifications is done with the standard fill oil. Oil and Automotive manufacturers do not share their additive packages make-ups due to the amount of research required to develop them. Using any oil other than what the manufacturer designed the engine to run is a bad idea!! Also never mix different brands/grades of oils because the additive packages may be incompatible. If you want to learn about oil go to the American Petroleum Institute website
Paul Donnelly p
I run the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend oil and Motorcraft filter for my Excursion and E350 van and change it every 5k miles. Both trucks perform really well.
i run the motorcraft synthetic blend and the ford racing oil filter and change mine every 4000miles,,,cars run excellent
I run maple syrup and a coffee filter and changethem every time I turn onto a new street.
@@qanononabong8491 😂 I think I’d have problems with ant infestation if I did that.
@@qanononabong8491 I bet you that damn thing farts a lot?
Mobil doesn't have highest enough tbn like Quaker state fs....
In the 70's I was managing a fleet of gas-powered vehicles and we became a test fleet for Mobile 1. This included good record-keeping by us and scheduled lab sampling sent into them when they requested it. The results were amazing but that will have to wait for another time. We never saw a gas mileage increase, but we did instantly see enough better cold-weather starting even in North Dakota that we no longer ordered the vehicles with frost plug heaters. The synthetic really earned its keep when there was a cooling system problem that overheated the engine before the driver recognized the problem and shut it down. Even lawnmower engines can be toasted by a mouse building a nest in the cooling fins. To this day, I run Mobil1 in any engine that is too expensive for me to want to replace and that is all of mine.
I just purchased a V10 Ford motorhome with 180000 miles on it. What oil would you suggest I use a synthetic or a blended I also do like Mobil 1 oil
Thank you for a great post reply. Very few of these offer quality information like this one! Happy 4th!!! Go FORD
Good for you.
For 20 years I buy the cheapest full synthetic with the right specs and viscosity.
Never any issues with any of our cars.
Oil change interval is MUCH more important than the brand used.
I have used nothing but full synthetic oil in all my cars since 1971 and they were all new when I bought them. I ran the synthetic from day 1 in all of them. I never had a single problem with any of them that was oil related.
What name synthetic oil in 1971???.
I did the maintenance on a fleet of courier vehicles. We had all Fords Fiesta's, Focus's, E-Series vans & trucks, and etc! I used the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend oil and our interval was 4000 miles religiously. I resisted going synthetic for 2 reasons. Some vehicles had some idling time and conventional oil absorbs moisture better than synthetic. We wouldn't see the vehicles unless they were in for service. The shorter oil change interval meant that the vehicle had to come in and be looked at. So many times we would catch something ready to fail at a service. The company owner would rather spend money in the shop than have it towed back and a driver losing valuable time broken down. In my 25 years with the company we never lost an engine. And the tow company we used would have gone broke if we were his only customer.
Very interesting... Theres nothing wrong with synthetic blend...
The way we did it we were not looking for extended drain schedules. It was more important to get them in to look them over.
@@DS-TRUCKS I got a question let’s say u wanna run full synthetic in ur car I have an 04 Ford Mustang 3.8 v6 an it’s has some mileage on it how much is 300K an I’m kinda going threw a head war which I should use for it bc all I do is got to work an back now Ik y’all said synthetic blend‘s fine but an if u ran full synthetic it would loosen some things up possibly but what if you just wanted to run it an I just won’t the best for my vehicles idc if it does cost a lil more to make it run better I just won’t wanna get ever inch I can outta what I can an i just really would like ur guys opinion or ur friend that’s had 20+ years experience with ford motor company I’m sure have some experience
Seems suspicious to me that shortly after Barney Disappeared that Royal Purple was introduced
Omg. Ur right.
1FNJO LMAO!! Hhhhhhmmmm
LOL
I lol'd, but your comment made me curious so I looked it up. Royal Purple was founded in 1986, where as Barney and Friends ran from 1992-2009.
I'm fun at parties.
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The best oil is clean oil period! I have a buddy of mine with his 1999 F-150 with 350K and changed his oil religiously. That truck has never seen a wrench under the hood. He also uses premium but that's for another video. :)
Tom e totally agree with you on that from over the pond..)))🇬🇧👍
Sorry but I don't believe that a 99' with 350k miles has never had to have any repairs. I agree with you about the regular oil changes.
@@curtis1951 he probably means no major issues besides basic maintenance. Half our work fleet trucks have this sort of mileage and no big issues other than idler pullies, belts etc.
@@boostedbadboyzx12r31
I'm sure that's what he means but I still don't believe a 99' with that many miles has had no major issues. I call bs. 😂
Using premium in a 1999 f150 is dumb af
As a retired master automotive technician, I agree. The most important thing you can do as a vehicle owner is to follow the manufacturers recommended oil change intervals using the recommended viscosity and API rating . Synthetic motor oils do not break down molecularly. They do become overloaded with contaminants over time. Hence it is very important to follow the recommended change intervals. Motor oil is the life blood of your engine. If you want to have your engine last a long time, change your oil regularly along with your oil filter. Use a quality motor oil.
You're retired but when you were a technician manufacturers probably didn't have unreasonable oil change intervals as they do now. Look how well it worked for Toyota and their 12k mile interval in the 2.5? What about GM's lfx? GM reeled the oil life monitor back to 5k in a recall due to timing components failing early, during warranty even. The MFG recommend interval must be reasonable, with a reasonable viscosity too, these days I don't trust them due to CAFE.
I change at 5k with a true full synthetic matter what. I guarantee I will never have an oil related failure.
Dustin in the 80’s Toyota has two versions for oil change. Severe service 3750miles and regular service 7500 miles. We always recommend 3-3500 on oil change and Castro’s 20w-50. Many got over 200k on them following these guidelines. That was southwest Houston traffic. One of the worst in the country.
@@dustin9035 Todays oils are far superior than in the past due to synthetic and semi synthetic. When using Mobil 1 synthetic long life motor oil, Toyota says you can go 12,000 miles between oil and filter changes in the 2.5 L 4cyl engines such as in the 2015 Toyota Rav 4. I reccomend changing the oil and filter every 6,000 to 7,000 miles. The cleaner you keep your engine oil the less deposits you'll have into the main and rod bearings. In general, no matter what you drive, you can't change the engine oil too often.
Good advice. Never trust the dealer. Web their recommendations are questionable. Heck, Toyota doesn't even have a recommended transmission fluid change or drain.
@@jbean530 I recommend changing transmission, differential, and transfer case fluids every 60,000 miles.
3 years ago i bought a 2003 F-150 supercrew that now has 249,312 miles on a 4.6 V8. Its never had any engine, transmission or rear end work done to it. I bought it from a friend that bought it brand new in 2003. The only oil he ever run was Mobil 1 full synthetic, as do I. This truck still runs excellent and I hope it will make the 300, 000 mile mark.
I own a 2006 GMC Canyon with 3.5 engine. I have used only Mobil One synthetic oil. My truck has 368k miles and the engine is still running good.
That's surprising since the 4.6 Triton is horrible and has lots of problems. That convince me more that Synthetic is the way to go.
@@jaureguixp i have never had any trouble with any ford 4.6 or 5.4 Triton V8 engines, ever... Pulled 6,000 lbs up Wolf creek pass in Colorado with this very truck. My brothers Jeep with a worthless 318 V8 had big problems pulling a loaded 5x8 uhaul trialer up. Fords are by far the best trucks on the road.
@@jaureguixp The 4.6 is a great motor and they are very reliable. My brother had over 380k mile on his Thunderbird with a 4.6. I've had 3 different mustang's all with a 4.6 and never had any issues with either the sohc or dohc.
I have a 2001 F150 supercrew and I only run full synthetic. The 5.4 in it is running strong with 337k miles!
I run full synthetic in EVERY engine I own. I'm a retired nuke worker. Sat in MANY lube classes. SYNTHETIC is the only way to go. I say it in wet situations , HOT , and long term. I'm sold..
Me too, not only for the benefit of engines but the money savings is real nice.
Thanks for the info you put out there! I know this is an older video, but it's still helpful.
I just bought a 2017 2.7 ecoboost with 12,000 miles on it, literally driven by a grandpa, so I am doing the research on maintenance so I can make this thing last as long as possible.
While watching this video, I got my owners manual out to see what Ford says. The recommended oil is semi-synthetic, but they say as an option, use full synthetic.
Usually, if Ford allows you to choose a "LESSER" option, they will say "If this particular part is not available, you can use xyz in it's place", but the manual didn't state it that way. I'm interpreting the way it is worded in the manual as the semi-synthetic is a minimum standard, and the full synthetic may be better. My guess is that a lot of people won't pay for the more expensive option of using full synthetic. So at a minimum, a synthetic blend is recommended, which will be better than regular conventional oil, which they DON'T even give as an option. The fact that the minimum option is a synthetic blend should say something about what kind of oil would be best.
But......I can NOT get on board with waiting until the oil change light comes on.....7,500-10,000 miles?? There's no way I'm waiting that long!
Every 5k for Ecoboost and you're golden.
I personally only use Pennzoil Ultra full synthetic but deep down i know that frequent oil changes are what really helps with long engine life. My uncle had a 4runner with 380k miles and that thing was spotless when i removed the valve cover for a gasket change, he used any regular dino oil that was on sale and changed it every 3k miles.
My friend had a Chevy van with 327,000 miles on it. He used Dino oil every three thousand miles same as your uncle. The van engine was running great but the tranny was on its way out so he traded it in.
True. I run Full synthetic and I would never think of running it over 5K miles !
Exactly right. People think there’s some kind of magic oil out their and they are absolutely nuts. You take care of your vehicle and change your lubricants regularly and you will be just fine. I laugh when I see people have this argument. Way to many factors involved to blame or praise a particular oil for long engine life or catastrophic failure.
What type of Chevy did he have? Probably could have replaced the tranny and got a lot more miles to it.
Better to have enough oil than the "right" oil.
I use Mobil 1 in my 1998 ford f150....since forever, with no problems
I have bought new and used vehicles, some with almost 150k. I always used full synthetic with wix filters and have never had an engine issue yet in doing so. The increase in cost even for used vehicles, is worth helping reduce the wear at that point regardless what wear an engine had in its previous miles. As others have said, just change your oil regularly, use a good filter. Simple enough.
I'm with you!
I run Amsoil in all of my motorcycles and my truck. Never had a problem.
I run shell rotella in all of my bikes and no problems at half the price. I even used it on my track bikes where the rpm was usually above 10k rpm.
Amsoil is the best
@@frankbutaric3565 why run diesel oil in a motorcycle? It's not formulated for wet clutchs, hot running air cooled or high RPM liquid cooled engines.
Same here, using Amsoil for the last 11 years for my cars/truck/lawnmower. Never had any problem, engines run smoother and better gas mileage.
@Sally Hillal they have motorcycle oil, as well as other specialty oil like air cooled oil
There's no myth, full synthetic is better!
@END TIMES NICE ONE!!! LMMFAO
@END TIMES I wasn't trying to be sarcastic or insult you in anyway. I just thought it was funny what you wrote. I'm just not political at all...Non-Political. I couldn't care less who's president...opinions vary and people are going to say, do live, etc. the way they want. Just like me...Just do it Legally! But I must say this..."I'd rather reign in Hell than serve in Heaven!!!" Just me personally. But I do understand what you mean...We live in some really f&*ked up times nowadays. And I said this before and will continue too...I'd rather be stuck in the 80's than forced to live in the 2020's!!! Stay Safe!
Full synthetic oil is the same as synthetic blend their both petroleum base oil with synthetic additive package. Only a100% oil like Amsoil or Redline and a few more are the best
Facts 💯
Watch deboss garage and see what synthetic oil does to a engine
I have used full synthetic oil for almost forty years. In that time, I never had engine problems and gained in mpg. Many people could get by using synthetic blend but will not get the benefits and security of using full synthetic.
I have a vehicle with 300k miles, used conventional oil up to 60k miles, then swapped to Mobil 1. To this day it does not burn any oil. Been a great engine because of Mobil 1 synthetic oil. If you swap to synthetic, keep in mind it will desludge your engine so you need to do a few quick oil changes to capture the sludge but you will be good to go after that.
Did you notice any improvements in the way the engine was running? After the switch to synthetic...
@@DS-TRUCKS I have owned the vehicle since it was new. The engine only had 60k miles in it at the time wheb I switched to synthetic, but was running great. I was doing oil changes between 3k and 5k miles with conventional. The only issue I had is it developed a couple of oil leaks shortly after which I fixed. The positives besides longevity is better fuel mileage due to less friction, easier starts in the winter months. It currently has 295k miles, my son drives it every day. The engine runs as good today as it did 26 years ago when it was new. Very impressed with the durability I have been able to get with this engine. Synthetic oil is worth the money.
When you go to starbucks and spend 5 bucks 1 visit you put in full synthetic 5 qts 20 bucks and it lasts for 3500 miles it's worth every drop
this is the best comment. anything put to clean the engine...you need to get the stuff out. do anything oil change. same thing using seamfoam or the shell nitro gas.
I had a 1996 Ford Escort 1.9 l I used full synthetic From the day i bought it until the day i got rid of it 10 years later. I had a Valve seat let go at 107k miles. It was a known problem with those cars and that head. When I replaced the head the bores in the cylinder at 107 k mile still had cross hatch and no ridge on the cylinder. I swear by full synthetic and its the only thing i use. I did oil changes at 4000 miles. I also put full synthetic in my old cars as well 1965, 1968 and 1971. And i have gone from Full synthetic to standard oil and back in the old cars with no issues.
I use full synthetic oil in my ford fusion 2016... since it was new..since dealer say i can go 10 thousand miles..so i did mine at 5 thousand.. don't change at 10 thousand..is my opinion..no more then 5 thousand..at most ..i have a lift in my home shop..so i do my own now..after warranty expires..i use ford motercraft..from day one..full synthetic.when i drain my pan...its clean,still.
An engine that leaks oil is a blessing. You never need to change the oil because you're constantly adding fresh oil in to keep it topped off. :)
Itsme Dude if it ain’t leaking then it ain’t working
Itsme Dude you just gotta get a really good filter 😆 my caddy leaks about a quarter every month and topping it keeps my oil clean for a long time. I use Pennzoil platinum on all my cars, it's $22 bucks a gallon at Walmart.
And it keeps the dust down on a gravel driveway!
I had a Mazda rotary race car, very tough on oil, high RPM and very hot. Oil analysis on conventional race oil after one race was always bad. Switched to synthetic and I could do 4 races and the oil was better than one race with conventional.
My contour SVT had over 200k miles, on Mobil 1 5000k oil changes, changed the valve cover gaskets and the cams were like brand new. Conventional oil is for the lawnmower, I actually use synthetic on everything I own.
Oil and filters are cheap, Engines are expensive!
a quote parroted directly from skotty kilmer
Synthetic oil has better boundary lubrication, meaning it will prevent metal to metal contact. Conventional oil has 300-500psi and synthetic has 3,000 psi before you have metal to metal. Synthetic oil also flows better and creates a better hydrodynamic film where the bearing services rise up on a bed of lubricant like a surfer rides a wave. Great video!
i love me some AMSOIL!
1987 ford f150
351 Windsor with 700000 one rebuild.
Conventional oil only. Yes its true.
Texas is a big state and driving this beast to the farm out of Dallas.
You were probably using 30-40w oil as well since he viscosity makes a bigger difference than conventional or full synthetic. Also older 90's oil was a bit better than new oil since it had more zddp so it protected better but because of emissions they cut it down a lot and it still had all the additives and detergents. Sure there are other elements in anti wear but slicing the zinc by half from a few decades ago and thinning the oil and making the engines run hotter from 180 to 210 degrees also makes the oil even thinner and last less just so the engine can make a bit more power.
Synthetic blends can be as little as 5% synthetic, the rest is mineral oil.
Nice discussion guys 👍
Thank you!
And synthetics can be less than 27
The oil "can be" anything you claim if you're simply making up information. The real question is, what is the exact formulation, and what is the additive package as opposed to Internet speculation?
That's why you get the oils that say 100% synthetic. Problem solved.
A 20 year mechanic is NOT an oil expert or a lubrication engineer.
Most mechanics prefer minimum requirements. I still like my full synthetics!
Exactly he is a mechanic not an engineer. He did not design the engine or the lubricant oil. He thinks he knows more than many highly educated engineers . Absolutely not
EXACTLY.....Lots and lots of anecdotal evidence and hyperbole here. Nice guys but a vid like this should be technical....not "stories".
He is a cheap oil seller
I totally agree!!!!
Pennzoil platinum 5w30 with motor craft anti draining oil filter valve for my 2010 ford f150 4x4 crew cab platinum with 5.4 Triton with 140,000 miles, runs quiet, better than new sound
Sounds like that dealer is full of people who have no idea what they are talking about.
This is why I change my own oil. No BS no extraterrestrial explanation. I know what I buy and that’s what’s going in.
Synthetic also has much better "Shear" wear capability. Was told this by a Mobil Chem/Chemical Engineer. Hence longer oil changes intervals.
I use Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum because its the only oil that seems to never burn off. I ran M1 Extended Performance for years in an older car and it always lost about a quart by oil change time..changed to PUP and never had that issue again, so I use it to this day.
Getting rid of sludge in an old engine isn't necessarily a bad idea. My very first car was an older car with an engine that was only, worn, and loaded with sludge. About six months after acquiring the vehicle, I changed it to a full synthetic. After a test drive around the block, the oil was as black as I have ever seen oil. It wasn't black when I put it in and I was concerned that I had done something very bad. To my surprise, the fuel economy improved by almost 40% The engine still runs to this day with over 100,000 since that oil change. So I still go full synthetic, even in older cars. Old cars, not junker cars. There is a difference.
The "dont use synthetic during break in" myth is crap. Many cars come with Mobil 1 as factory fill. Any new vehicle that takes 0w20 oil has to be synthetic.
That's a good pointe...
Exactly I don’t even think you can get conventional oil in 0W-20.
@@SalivatingSteve You can't, but Castrol JUST came out with a 0W20 in synthetic blend. It doesn't have the dexos rating on the oil so it can't be used in the new 5.3L GM truck engines, but it can be used in pretty much any other 0W20 required engine.
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For my diesels i use Rotella T6 full synthetic. I once used the "blend" and the engine sounded like a old typewriter. Powerstrokes get this wierd ticking sound if they dont like the oil. For my Powerstrokes its Rotella T6.
My Dad had a 95 GMC 2wheel drive suburban he gave it to my sister with 438 thousand miles on it. Oil he used, Pennzoil 10/30 conventional oil.
He trailord various street rods and drag cars up to 80 mph, distances up to 2,000 miles. I thought he was crazy, he changed the oil between 3,000 to
5,000 mile intervals. I can only imagine the caked on sludge in the engine as Pennzoil is notorious for that in my experience, but the odometer don't lie.
And this is a 5.7 liter gas engine.
That's amazing! 95 350 lasted that long!
I doubt there is any sludge if it was changed on those regular intervals. I used mobil conventional oil in my 96 explorer and at 280,000km the inside of the oilpan was clean - regular 3000 mile intervals. No wear either.
500,000 miles on conventional oil
NYC taxicabs
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Motorcraft syn blend 5w30 for my liking. I have used synthetics for 10 plus years and I'm going back to Motorcraft syn blend. It's one of the best oils that I have used.
Molybdenum! I've used valvoline full synthetic in the last 4 new SUV's or pickups that I've owned! The last one was a 5.7 hemi, my stepson now has it with 417-k miles. I had an 02 Durango with the 5.9 it's still in service with 400-k miles. Even with the full synthetic I change oil every 5-k. Just saying!!!!
Changing the oil every 5k is why your having such good success. Let all the idiots go 10k
The reason the top end sounded better for you with the Mobile 1 is because it has a much better velocity index.
It worth synthetic just for the increased VI, but there are many other reasons too.
Peeps don't cheap out on oil.
Been using MOBIL 1 for over 30 years in various types of engines no oiling issues ever
Same, since 1990. Several cars with multiple hundreds of thousands of miles on each. Engines are spotless inside when I took the valve covers off. Literally like brand new. No sludge, no varnish. No oil burning. I use nothing but full synthetic, even in my lawnmower. Engines are complex and very expensive. If you want it to last, use synthetic and lawn to change it yourself. It's easy.
Absolutely true. But don’t extend the intervals between oil changes.
been running mobil 1 since 2006 , at 230,000 trade it off. engine ran great , never plug in in the winter, never needing a boost , even at -43.been running on our new 2017 since 1st oil change, love it. as for changing over with a older car, mobbil1 makes an oil for older cars canging over to help prevent the gasket falling apart.. i enjoyed your video
I put a full synthetic shell hx8 5w40 in my astra 20001.8 gasoline engine. After 1,000 miles no oil consumption, no leaks, engine works better than before. My Engine had 285,000 kms!(~180,000 miles)! The strange thing is I looked under the cap and the top was gold clean! I think I just got lucky It didn't leak, but now I have better working engine and I must use only full synthetic oil and also the same brand-because some full synthetic have different additives and I don't wanna risk anything! Very useful video, thank you from Bulgaria🇧🇬
If you want to save money then use the low price full synthetics like Amazon Basic or Walmart Super Tech full synthetic.
I hear a lot of good things about those oils!
@@DS-TRUCKS As long as an oil has the recommended 'API' Ref letters that are stated in your Makers Manual that what goes in there ...be it Amazon, Walmart or whatever ........Best oil is clean oil...www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil/eolcs-categories-and-classifications/oil-categories#tab-gasoline
I agree. Walmart super tech transmission fluid was good.
They are manufactured by major petroleum companies with the customers label on it.
@@barnabyjones6995
I change it every 5,000 miles.
Sludge is mostly caused by not changing your oil often enough. Insufficient warm-up and cold weather cause condensation which leads to sludge. Synthetics greatly reduce sludge. Several manufacturers now use full synthetic oil as the factory fill and do not specify any special oil as a break-in oil.
Never used a blend in my 04 f150 4.6 V8 STX, 220,000 miles and motor runs and sounds like NEW! Only full synthetic for me!
All I know is I had a 2011 3.5 Ecoboost that I had the oil changed at the dealership when the oil life got to 20%. They always used the Motorcraft blend and by 50,000 miles when you looked at the cams though the fill hole everything including the dipstick had an amber varnish on them that I had never seen before. I use full synthetic since then and have not seen that varnish on my 5.0s.
i've used full synthetic oil in a older car, and haven't had any oil leaks yet, and for the past year with regular changes
The motor craft that's what I run in my vic been good so far
Thats not Motorcraft oil your running. Last I checked ford makes cars, not oil. Its made by citgo. Nothing special. Its simply rebadged oil, like any private label brand. You would be better off running wal mart super tech synthetic. Its better and probably cost less.
All Ford gas engines we own, Mobil 1 since first change. 07 Fusion with 318K miles no issues. Rotella T6 in the diesel trucks they start in Montana winter.
Definitely a good move!
Just to add another pt. You can get Motorcraft Full Synthetic as well. It's well rated & very good for the price pt . I use it exclusively in any brand vehicle I own. 8.99qt from Summit Racing! 💯
Ive been running liqu moly 5w30 for turbo engines in my 3.5 eb, change every 5k kilometers.
Walmart always has full synthetic and extended performance synthetics always for cheaper.
Very true.
true, better price than any auto parts store has to offer
It’s $26 for a 5 quart jug of Mobil1 full synthetic at Walmart. But last time I went to Autozone they had a $30 special that included a free oil filter, so it ended up being cheaper for me doing that.
I heard it's really good too
@@SalivatingSteve Sometimes I see their rollback price has all of the Mobil 1 products for just over $23 at times (Mobil 1, EP, and Advanced Fuel Economy). The only one I've seen that's never that cheap is the Annual Protection, which Walmart is currently discontinuing. My local Blain's Farm & Fleet usually has it cheaper than all of the auto parts stores, especially when they have it on sale in conjunction with the rebate, but you're right, Walmart is usually the best price. I've also seen that they now have this new 12-qt. box for about $52.
I work in automotive quality. I can tell you from experience the goal of the manufacturer is to get you through the warranty period with no issues. Also to have it last long enough for you to develop brand loyalty and come back for your next purchase. I will NOT go the 10k mile recommended oil change interval for my vehicle. I change my oil every 5k miles. I plan on going well beyond the warranty period and doing my oil more frequently will help it meet my longevity expectations.
My 2010 Titan recommends 7500 intervals under normal use and 3750 for sever duty but I just do 5k intervals with synthetic.
My Dad had teach me a long time ago that no matter what you have just take care of it and it will take care of you. 3000 miles oil changes, brakes half life replacement, and his tires would dry rot before they wear out. At 250000-350000 it would sounds like brand new. The paint on his vehicles was a different story through.
I agree although at 73 years old I don't expect to get 300,000 on our current vehicle which only has 43,500 on it now. But when we're gone it will be good for one of our children or grand children.
2015 Chevy Silverado with the 5.3 V8 engine, always took her to the dealer to perform regular routine maintenance, this last time I notice my truck was running a little sluggish, and it wasn't due for an oil change for another month, or 1,500 miles, and my (MPG) was dropping like crazy, so finally, I decided to change the oil myself, and use Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic with a Puralator Boss oil filter, and within two weeks, my MPG almost doubled, even when driving around town. To get the best performance out of a vehicle, it's better to make sure to use the best product available, Full Synthetic Oil all the way!!!!!
I agree 💯
Makes me wonder what the shop put in there.
@jbean530, exactly, they must have used conventional or cheap synthetic blend motor oil with the AC Delco oil filter, the life expectancy was at 60% according to the information center in my truck, before I changed it. My truck is my daily driver, to work and home, so I don't drive her hard, and I don't tow trailers, so I was extremely surprised to see her poor performance, and that prompted me to perform the maintenance my self with good reliable oil and filter, and my truck is running way better now with improved mpg..
You know dealers & quick lubes use a one dollar oil filter and the cheapest crap oil out of a barrel or tote they can get to maximize profits. The only thing they care about is getting you back as soon as possible for another oil change and a chance to upsell you on anything else they can wether you need it or not. they will at least tell you need a belt or wiper blades or something, because even with the cheapest possible components there isn't alot of profit in oil changes
@dennis rantanen, I guess I had to learn that lesson the hard way, my philosophy was, "who knows the vehicle better than the dealer?" That theory didn't work, and everything you just mentioned in your comment is absolutely true! My (MPG) is still improving, and I am hearing less engine noise, no piston slapping, she is running very smooth, from now on, I will perform my own routine maintenance and stop increasing the dealer profits. I know for certain what's going into my truck would be quality stuff for best performance!
Wolfs Head is actually a decent oil, use it on my 2013 Taurus 140K miles, runs perfect
I will try that next.
I have a Chrysler LA 318 that had sketchy conventional oil changes up to 40K. There was moderate sludging on the valve decks, in the valley and the pan, and moderate varnishing. I said, "Well, it'll either clean the galleries and the rest of the varnish out gradually, or it'll plug the galleries and I'll rebuild it. In went PZ 10W-30 full synth, and off we go. First change at 3K, scads of varnish plaque and bits of sludge came out. The filter was was getting pretty full of crap. Next change at 6K, less in filter, less in pan. Following changes showed less and less. Oil consumption about 1 qt. In 12K, projected, both before and after. The engine now has 236K on it. Pulled the heads to clean up the valves...NO sludge, No varnish....engine looked new inside. Bore taper .0005 to .0007 on all. Popped up the pistons to re ring... NO carbon in ring lands, NO scuffing or varnish on skirts...the rings were still functional, but replaced with factory. Mains and rods still within factory tolerances no shells showed gouging or debris wear, but I rolled in -.0002s or STDs to close up oil clearances. The pump screen showed no sign of plugging due to removed sludge of varnish. Only thing worn was the timing chain, and that's common to any Chrysler LA of that vintage. I fully expect this engine to run 500K before a rebuild.
CAVEAT: Full synth will cause FelPro stock positive oil seals to swell and leak in short order. Switched to Victor seals, no problems (Chrysler OEM).
CONCLUSION: You CAN switch to full synthetic on fairly neglected engine of fairly low mileage...but you'd better keep an eye on things for awhile.
I have a '97 Navistar T444E (Powerstroke] that has run DELO 400 15W-40 since new. ChevTex has now changed their formulation to a synth blend. My injector tips stay cleaner. 175K mi., some heavy towing work, mostly moderate loads, oil consumption 1 qt. In 8K, projected. Drain interval 4K. DELO has come a long way from the ashless Diesel-Electric Locomotive Oil that Standard Oil of California designed for the GM and EMD 2 strokes in 1937.
Very interesting story. Thank your for sharing!
@@DS-TRUCKS ...and thanks back for posting this important topic using a Ford engine service professional as well as your personal experiences Getting good information out there without a personal agenda or opinion is a service to all.
I cleaned a noisy set of lifters with Marvil Mystery Oil. Once it really quieted down, I put Synthetic in again.
I do this before every oil change on my 5.4 3v. People can talk junk about it all they want, but it seems to be working. 121,000 and counting
Prolong engine additive check it out for additional protection once in wailed it would definitely provide metal to metal protection!
For the sake of all things mechanical... better oil provides better lubrication and a cleaner engine... it's a scientific fact. This debate has been over for decades. Even older engines benefit from better lubrication and higher detergency. In fact, the older the engine the better the oil it needs.
You hit on the nail 100%agree
My take is if you buy an engine full of sludge u need to run conventional oil for a few shorter intervals to gradually remove sludge. VS going full synthetic right away & releasing a torrent of sludge that can plug stuff up. A new motor not spec'd from the factory for synthetic is going to have WAY too much detergent from synthetic. Even so in a 50K mile motor.
@@williscurry6557 You're not wrong... but I had a 1971 Ford 351 Windsor that the original owner ran straight 30 weight non-detergent Valvoline in for 80,000 miles. There was over 10 lbs of black build up under the valve covers after a year of marvel mystery oil, CD2, synthetic oil and an engine flush... While it's in fact true that after 50,000 miles on synthetic oil the engine was spotless and looked like new, it took years to fully clean the sludge the Valvoline created. While any fresh oil turned black within a week of putting it into the car, it really didn't do nearly as much cleaning as it was the product advertised. Next time you tear down a filthy motor try to was the parts in motor oil, even synthetic, you will be surprised how little detergent oil really cleans over the short run.... Long run, yes... but we're talking about thousands of miles. My advise is to get the best oil into your car ASAP, but advise is free... and synthetic oil costs more, your call.
Every time I've tried using full synthetic oil in my 350 Chevy engine that has been rebuilt it has caused it to start using oil and leak worse than a 350 Chevy usually leaks. I think proper engine maintenance is more important to engine longevity (plus having a well designed engine to begin with) than what oil you use in it, assuming you follow the manufacturers recommendations for oil weight, etc. Old Volvos from the 70's and 80's (before synthetic came out) are famous for going hundreds of thousands of miles before needing major engine work done to them. Maybe new cars benefit from this pricey synthetic oil but old cars sure didn't need it to go a long way.
Those old volvos also have a specific output of about 30kwperlitre. And those stories of longevity are just that. Stories. Its always an old guy who forgot about the headgasket at 100,000 kms etc etc. Who knows how much work theyve ACTUALLY had done. No way to prove it.
We had old peugeot diesels with 800,000 kms on the clock still drove like new. So? They were serviced from new by our workshop to the factory spec.
These days its up to 80-100kwperlitre. They NEED that excellent synth oil.
Use the best oil you can afford.
When I switched to super tech full synthetic from Walmart on my 5.0,over motor craft blend...
I no longer got engine lights at 40% of oil life and my fuel economy went up as well as the engine sounded better!
I've got the 2013 F150 what the of 5.0 engine . I've been using motorcraft Full synthetic since 14000 miles, now at 40000 I did an oil sample, Blackstone labs. The report was a glowing report that showed the engine was way below what would be expected as far.as wear. Motorcraft full synthetic..
I think motorcraft was synthetic oil was pretty good!
I have a 99 Ford Ranger with 204K. Ran blend from day 1.
I have a 2004 Mercury Sable. Been using Motocraft from day one too.
With what change intervals?
@@njsongwriter 3,000
I be built plenty of race motors full synthetic from the start. Chevy 355 with over 400 passes on it at 8,000 rpm. Not one failure. Tore it down to change set up and the bearings absolutely had no wear. A rod is correct-about the synthetic oil molecules. Also synthetic oil is a high detergent in a way that it cleans the engine. Mobil 1 was created for NASA for aircraft. The original blend was really not compatible with other oils and did cause issues with older generations of engines. I prefer Chevron Delo 400 synthetic (aka Motorcraft oil) in my 7.3 and 6.0 powerstroke engines. Proven 400k miles no injector failures. Regular oil change at 5000 miles and synthetic change 8000 miles with a filter change at 4000miles. My Z28 ls1 has 265,000 on it it gets Mobil 1 10-40 high mileage.
Good to hear from someone who knows their s***! Thanks for commenting!
I use full-synthetic on everything I've owned and have had a number of vehicles that ticked over 300K miles with no engine problems. Early on in my '03 Hemi I was using conventional and noticed some sludging. I mostly use Mobil 1 but have used Castrol if it was on sale. You can run much longer between oil changes with full-synthetic and the cost difference between conventional and full-syn. isn't all that much on an oil change. It might be a good idea to do a flush and a short change if you have sludge and then go to full-synthetic.
I have an old Ford 4.2 V6. I switched to synthetic oil at about 180k miles. I'm now at about 320k. I had to pull one of the rocker covers and I was impressed by how clean everything was. Absolutely no varnish, very little sludge. I've been changing oil at 7k-mile intervals, supported by used oil analysis. Whatever synthetic is on sale. Motorcraft filter. I've been using synthetic oil in all my small engines as well, and it seems to keep them very happy.
wOw.......Mobil 1 full synthetic was used on the Space Shuttle for lubrication but not good enough for a Ford Pickup ! Give me a f...ing break !
Boom! I guess it's not rocket (or space shuttle) science. Good job!
That was a long time ago. There's better stuff now
The Mobil 1 in this video isn’t a FULL synthetic. It’s a hydrocracked conventional and it’s certainly wasn’t what was used in the Space Shuttle. Learn the difference between group 2, 3 and 4 oils before giving your opinion.
@@mcquillinfamily3940
It's still called full synthetic but it's not 100% synthetic.
Looool
My 7.3L Powerstroke likes synthetic. Maybe the injectors like it too?
On the old HEUI systems I'd say synthetic should be mandatory.
7:10-7:45 those words could not be any more truer you guys really know your stuff 😌
I have a 2020 EcoBoost mustang and the first 1000 miles i chaged the oil to Mobil 1 and ill stick with it till i own the car it now has 3000 miles so from the get go i do agree to use mobil 1
Meh, on my work daily driver, it's never seen synthetic and has 350,000 and still runs like new.
Keeping the oil clean and avoiding short trips is way more important.
Fact of the matter is the only reason yo use full synthetic is if your towing a lot and the oil is getting really hot otherwise as long as you change your oil every 5k it doesn’t matter what oil you use
What many ppl don’t know is synthetic blends aren’t 50% conventional & 50% synthetic. They’re more like 80% conventional & 20% synthetic. And some are actually 90% conventional & 10% synthetic.
That's very subjective because Motorcraft uses both synthetic and a Group III base. All Conventional oils are Group II. Regular Mobil one is Group III.
I know this is an older video now. However I have a 2009 5.4 in a F150 I bought new which was strictly dealer maintained with Motorcraft 5w20 through 2017. From 2018 until present day I do the oil changes myself using Mobil 1 5w20, always at proper intervals and using Motorcraft oil filters. To this day it runs quiet and smooth. Last year I had the Valve Covers off for the first time ever and was amazed at how shiny and completely clean and new looking it was inside with zerp build up or sludge. I didn’t know a 13 year old engine could look that good inside especially after seeing horror videos of sludged, dirty engines online. There is something to be said for spending a few bucks for regular oil changes.
I own and drive many cars / trucks and use Synthetics in some but not all... Years ago I changed to full synthetic Mobil 1 V twin oil in my Harley. With-in a few miles I developed a lifter tick, so dumped the oil out with only 30 miles, refilled with Dino oil and I have never had any more ticks and that was over 20 years ago!
Then I had a Ford Crown vic that at 16,000 mileI changed to mobil 1 Synthetic and did 3K mile ( at the longest oil changes ) then at 54K miles I had valve seat leaks ( blue smoke at start up).
Most of my fords and in my ram diesel I run simi synthetic oil but I do not do extended drain. My Hellcat I run the same brand of Synthetic it came with from the factory. All my small engines including the Harley I only run regular non synthetic, change oil once a year and have never had any lube related issues and most if not all my lawn mowers and Harley are well over 20 years old.
I buy local old Police cars and the engines with as much as 160K that were fleet maintained with simi synthetic every 5K miles I find the engines still look new with zero deposits , sludge and such. If simi synthetic works in a high milage cop car, thats all I need and is what my Ford dealer suggest in all my Ford cars.
I believe as long as you use the manufacture suggested proper weight and class of oil your book calls for, unless you live in a harsh winter low temp area ( Synthetics are great in ultra cold starts ) but change your oil on a regular basis simi- synthetic is good stuff and all that is ever needed.
I personally will never use synthetic in small engines, just change the oil once a year and the lawn mower will rust out before the engine dies from any possible oil issues. My 2 cents...
I agree that you can't do anything about the first 50k if it had very limited oil changes, but why not do what you can with the best you can get now with full synthetic over conventional. And since Walmart has it at a very decent price, all the better. I would not waste money with a blend either, they can claim that it's a blend with 1% synthetic and the rest conventional. Pretty much a scam. And if you care about your car, best to stay away from FRAM products. Go Wix.
Run Mobil 1 in my 13 F150 5.0 also use in my 18 Lincoln Mkc with the 2 liter eco 👍🏻
That's my oil of choice.
Trading my current 2015 Ram 2500 in on a new 2024 F-250 XL SC/SB 4x4, 6.8l, 10 spd., 3.73 electric locker in the morning!
I will go with 5W-20 full synthetic for my 2003 Ford Ranger, it will last longer...😎
Change the oil yourself. This way you know it’s done right you synthetic and high-quality oil filter done
Thanks for the video, some interesting points. I’ve always used synthetic from day one and keep my vehicles until 150k miles sometimes, it’s always served me well..
All I know about synthetic was the rumor that it would cause gasket seals to leak on higher mileage cars that hadn’t been using synthetic prior. I put some in my Acura and Honda and both were leaking within a few thousand miles and had never had a leak prior.
The full syn oil is really thin. So it's necessary to add Lucas oil additive etc. Also using a 'high mileage' full syn oil is a good idea.
Full synthetic oil is good if you worm up your car or truck to operation temps before driving and for long distance driving.
If you are driving short distance driving and not going to worm it up at operating temps, than put a synthetic blend in it.
😁👍👍👍
Except neither of these oils are synthetic. The Motorcraft is a group 2 petroleum oil, and the Mobil 1 is a group 3 petroleum oil. They both came out of an oil well, not a laboratory! Only 1% of all oil is actually a man made product. Only group 4 Polyalphaolefin oils and group 5 ester based oils are really synthetic. As in man made.
Truth 👍. And yet they're allowed to call themselves synthetic. 🙄.
Personally, in an ecoboost (GDI) engine my main concern is to use a low-volatility oil to try to help keep the intake valves as least dirty as possible.
Same here. That's why I'm running Rottella Gas Truck synthetic vs Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. The NOACK rating on Rotella is 7.4 while the Motorcraft is 14.7.
Dirty valves have little to do with which oil you use and more with where your injectors are located. For your oil to keep your intake valves clean, you would have to get oil onto the valves, which would mean that you would be burning oil (white exhaust smoke) and would have to top off the oil on a regular basis.
@@any0n378 Yes, agree.
But..... the point is that with direct injection, it is oil that gets deposited on the intakes. I'm not using low-volatility oil to clean the intakes - it is the oil vapors that contributes to them getting dirty in the first place. I'm using it to help reduce the buildup. At least that was/is the hope. Although TBH I now pretty much clean them every oil change - they are very easy to get to in the Fusion.
ben using regular valvoline in my trucks for 40 years never had a problem just change when its time to.
I'm more of an enthusiast. I listen to the engine for when it picks up the oil from the bottom to the top...where it carries it...that one thing
I always break in my engine a bit first and go to full synthetic around 5K miles.
Finally someone with common sence
I don't know what your last few vehicles were but some vehicles have been synthetic filled at factory for 20 years with most gasoline engines coming with synthetic in the last 3 years. The long drain intervals don't work with conventional oils for a lot of drivers.
Is there something you know about modern engines and synthetic motor oil that all the major auto manufacturers don't know? Practically every major auto manufacturer today does factory fill with synthetic motor oil.
The first time the tech talks, his presumptions, made this video completely worthless.
EXACTLY he made this WHAT IF SCENERIO that was completely guess work and not backed by any data or science! if someone did run the car for 50K miles with 1-2 oil change I think its not just the oil you need to worry about.
@@joesmith201212 exactly 😂
My friend did testing on his Nissan titan with royal purple. He sent his conventional oil testing after an oil change. The testing company found nothing out of place. He added royal purple and at 3000 miles he sent some of the royal purple for testing. They detected high levels of lead and recommended to go back to conventional oil. Which he did.
Not a RP fan..have tried it in 2 different vehicles ...piston slapped in both...drianed it out...noise stopped. REDLINE 2 to 1.
I think it comes down to this, should I run full syn in my daughter’s Hyundai commuter? No. Should I run full synthetic in my new Ford Raptor TwinTurbo? Yes absolutely! Cost vs benefits. And I’ll spend the extra on Amsoil and drain before it says to because it makes me sleep better.
That's about as good an explanation as it gets
Dang, must be nice to be a car whisperer. I can't tell if a car has a fresh or used oil by the way it feels driving around 😆😂🤣
I can right after an oil change.
You can
Umm, no. Just no lol
Unless the oil in your vehicle has turned to sludge from doing 10k oil changes, even then the performance gain would be almost nil. Take two 2020 vehicles, one brand new and one just due for service, you couldn't tell which one had the used only by feel only 🤣 gtfoh
I have a 2016 Ford F150 with a 2.7 L eco-boost motor I run Motorcraft full synthetic oil in it
Me too, look into an oil catch can, the blow by will carbon up your valves especially pistons 2&3. Also it clogs your intercooler. Check it out .
@@lonewolf2364 Agreed. You'll be surprised how much crap is collected during the winter time. My 2.7 got about a gallon worth over the cold months here in Michigan. Nothing in the summer time. Great investment! I suggest UPR products. Great build quality.
Dump some Engine Honey in it? Really this guy is a experienced ford Mechanic? And really, really good stuff, MotorCraft! Amateur hour! It’s never a bad time to run good oil.
I do Doordash delivery ( a REAL grind on a vehicle), and use Valvoline MaxLife full synthetic in my little Ford Focus to help keep my engine going. Especially during the harsh Michigan winter months.
BS. You can switch back and forth all you want.
You're right because I've done it quite a few times and never had any problems at all.
You can make a damn cocktail of 8 different oils and it'll still be fine.
Robert Maybeth
1 second ago
Concur. On my previous 4 cars (1983 Nissan Sentra, 1988 Nissan Z24 pickup 2.4 L, 2001 Toyota solara 1FMZE V6, 2003 Camry 1FMZE V6) I switched back and forth with synth and dino (non synthetic) all the time. Like almost every other change. i noticed no difference in oil consumption or anything else. The Sentra had 180k miles when I sold it to somebody else for $450, still running fine. The Solara has 225,000 miles. and still going, the Camry has 200,000. All had their original engines although, the Nissan pickup got its oil changed every 3 months (usually Penzoil) but I used mobil 1 in the summertime. The pickup had a valve job at 200,000, at which time I tore it apart and found the engine whistle- clean inside, even the oil pan. More important the timing chain, timing gears, camshaft, oil pump, rod and main bearings were barely worn, the cylinders had NO ridge on top, near-max compression (AFTER the remanuf cylinder head attached of course since the piston rings were good) the only seriously worn part was the rubber on the timing chain tensioner, which I replaced. Engine leaked oil but did not burn any.
I was in automotive work for over 40 years, heard repeatedly "never switch from dino to synthetic oil or vice versa because if you do it'll start leaking/ burning oil" but never saw any difference one way or the other. I worked for a huge government fleet for 30 years and 99.9% of the fleet cars just used dino, except once in a while our "fleet manager" would decide to experiment with the "synthetic vs dino oil" concept, we techs would be told to only use Mobil 1 in a few cars or trucks and to monitor the oil consumption if any. We were never told the results of these experiments so I never found out first-hand what difference, if any using synthetic oil in a fleet would make.
The only remarkable thing pertaining to oil related engine failure that happened; in the mid 1990's there was one old Ford Escort of the fleet in which the driver did the truly astonishing. Somehow she drove the car in such a way to put a connecting rod (big end) through the cast aluminum oil pan. Apparently the oil light came on at speed and the driver just ignored it, and kept driving until the engine went kaboom.
Anyway, in my long experience of both fixing and driving a sh$t ton of cars - it is probably irrelevant whether you use synthetic oil or dino that is the determining factor that determines if you squeeze the maximum life out of your vehicle. It is probably more important to use a shorter interval between changes, than it is to use synthetic oil. Unless you drive in very hot/cold climates frequently, in which case, to me the benefits of full synthetic (particularly a longer interval between oil changes) might be worth the higher additional cost.
In the 07 F150 FX2 4.6 that I had I bought with 102K on it. Drove it to 230K and only used castrol magnatec 5w20 with motorcraft filter. Only changed oil and filter every 15k. Truck still ran like new when I got rid of it. But it was 90% highway miles no idle time. 2,000 rpm for hours at a time.
B B Causes leaks....no it doesn’t. Another “mechanic” who believes utter BS!
Modern engine oils are so highly refined that the distinction between "conventional" and "synthetic" is becoming blurred, and the trend will continue.
But conventional does not last as long. According to my sources, Conventional begin to deteriorate around 2800 miles compared to synthetic. I have an import vehicle with a 1990s era engine. I use conventional but change the oil around 2500 miles.
People talk about conventional oil like it is a junk product. In fact, it is a highly engineered product far superior to what the industry was producing even 20 years ago.
Hey I used full synthetic Amsoil one time. I would just stick to regular high grade oil I’ve been using for past 40 years. I’m not going to run my oil for 15,000 - 20,000 miles just because it’s synthetic. I have a new 2022 F250 6.2 which calls for synthetic blend
I will use a synthetic blend high grade oil like Cam 2 or similar. Have you seen the Motor Oil geek guy. He’s a specialist in oil chemistry.
Wow Sean! You’re friends with A/Rod! That is so cool!
He's a good guy!
He’s a legend! Hope he gets his 6.7 one day soon! We’ll see him on Friday!
Well buddy, being a Tech for a lifetime it does not mean that you have some kind of expertise with Oil at a molecular level, you better ask to a Oil specialist from Mobil 1, check the video of Engineering Explained, the is one related specifically to this topic
Better info and no secrets here: www.amsoil.com/
The dealer is pushing their oil , that’s what they do, many new cars now use 0W-20 which is 100 percent synthetic. Just because it says Motorcraft don’t make it the best unless your a blind ford guy and it makes you sleep better at night.
I can’t believe how much dealers in general charge for the synthetic... only Toyota charges their customer fairly when it comes to synthetic.
@@2damaxmr2 well you have 2 options, pay someone to change the oil and filter which is expensive now even at jiffy fast lubes or Walmart’s ( who I would not trust ) or a dealer that will probably cost more OR.. you can do it yourself at cost which is what I do , I frankly can’t afford to pay someone to service all my machines, that range from 4 wheelers, to Kubota tractor, to Harley’s and 2 trucks, an suv and a auto. . 2 big advantages, you know it got done right and you still have your shorts when the job is done lol
The tech makes a good point. you have to ask is it really necessary. If the engine can use conventional oil then its just as good as synthetic if you change your oil/filter properly. Dont wait for the computer to tell you when the oil is used up. And there is more to it. you can technically use synthetic in a old car. And alot of people using synthetic wait too long to do oil change which causes sludge. synthetic is also better in cold climates during cold starts. read your owners manual. And synthetic is never good for the breakin. however, obviously the vehicle is brand new and the proper oil would already be in the truck from the factory !