Re: Regular Oil vs Synthetic Oil -EricTheCarGuy
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- čas přidán 3. 02. 2013
- Visit me at: www.ericthecarguy.com/
I knew the original video would spark discussion and apparently it's caused quite a stir over at iATN. I also felt that some of what I said in the last video needed clarification. For those reasons I've made this Re: video. I'm not going to claim to be an expert on oil, I'm just speaking from personal experience. I still don't think I'm done with this topic and I invite any 'experts' who wish to express their opinions on this topic to join me in the next video(s). If you wish to participate in a future video on this topic please contact me at biz@ericthecarguy.com.
Here are links to the videos mentioned in the video.
Original video: • Regular Oil vs Synthet...
Subaru Trans fluid: Part 1 • Changing Automatic Tra...
Part 2 • Changing Automatic Tra...
Subaru Differential Fluid: • How To Replace Differe...
V6 Valve Adjustment: Part 1 • Video
Part 2 • Honda J Series V6 Valv...
Discussion about this topic: www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/1...
Stay dirty
ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
From this old retired mechanic, what you say is absolutely true. Your statement about the best thing that you can do for your engine is to change the oil often is what I used to preach. Good Show!
Also included in regular oil changes are good quality filters. I’m 76 Yrs old farmed all my life had many trucks, tractors, combines, cotton pickers and never had too overhaul a engine. I know that maintenance is what did it. Oil is a lot cheaper than metal. Just started watching you’re presentations and enjoyed it, also subscribed. Thank you.
Like you said.....a properly timed oil change is best, regardless of type of oil used. Respectfully done, Sir.
100 % AGREE
ive been using synthetic ang planning to go back to mineral oil because of low mileage every 6 months.. i'll jsut follow my manual to change oil every 6 months or 5k km whichever comes 1st..
Excellent explanation Eric! Thank you for making sense of the differences in performance of synthetics vs standard oil. Appreciate you man
"Changing your Oil is the number one thing you can do to extend the life of your vehicle period, bar none"
Spot on!!!
Dash Cam Das Another person mentioned oil flushes. The best oil flush? Just change your oil more often.
Dash Cam Das Hey, if you like this I have a synthetic vs conventional comparison video and also one about a Lucas Pure Synthetic Oil stabilizer.
I agree, if you stick to 10k/12 month changes, using good quality oil there is no need for oil flushes.
Yup just dropped $110 on oil change for my 96 f350 diesel
Just use the recommended oil thats stated in your owners manual. Change it as they request. If it needs to meet a specific "ms-105"
ERIC YOU SHOULD CONTINUE MAKING VIDEOS. I am glad seeing your video.
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Great video ! I just started doing my own maintenance on my vehicle and it is saving so much money. Your videos have been very helpful. Keep up the good work!
This is an excellent video with really good definitions and advice! I really appreciate the time you took to run through this!!
A perfect humble ending with a wonderfully informative video. Thanks again Eric!
My dad use to say. If you don’t do anything else. Change your oil. It is the life blood of your engine
I have since found out there is transmission fluid. Transaxle fluid. Power steering fluid. Bummer
I changed my oil alot. Cars break anyway. I'm looking to get a new/used engine ($400) just to keep my car on the road. It still runs well, though I' been told by 2 different mechanics - it has an "internal" problem. 2008 Buick lacrosse V-6 w/182.000 miles
My transmission broke mid December... Ended up getting a rebuilt transmission and, a replacement engine also. Now after 3 weeks in the shop; my car has a new heart w/18.000 miles and the car = 185,000 miles. 6 month warranty included!
Car is a12 year old Buick lacrosse
@@donnareed3822 lmao "bummer" I feel that
@@missingremote4388 was that a 3800 v6 or a 3.6 HF?
Can’t believe this went live 9 years ago! I remember watching this video as if I watched it last month!!! Thank you Eric the car guy!!!
I love synthetic oil. After I started using it, my headlights got brighter and my tire pressure remained constant.
When I switched my wife started putting out!!!
Lol
Kkkkkkkkkkk what looks after you drink.
🤣🤣🤣
Did your wife appreciate it too? lol
I see no reason why there is any doubt about what you are saying here!
Your informaton about the difference between these two types of oil made perfect sense to me!
Very good informative video, thank you.
look
Thanks bro.
Years later, looking at these comments, this still remains being a "controversial" topic when in reality, it comes down to how often you change your oil, whether you want to run on synthetic or conventional.
Biggest takeaway, to reiterate, change your oil regularly!
Project Farm did a great comparison of major engine oils, including cold flow performance - worth watching! Thanks Eric for a pragmatic discussion on engine oil maintenance and products!
Pouring cold oil down a tube or what ever it may be is not a test.
@@paratrooperlane7022 project farm test oil in every way that you can test it including sending it to a scientific lab he's very thorough.
@@robertchapman4488 I'm not saying anything bad about him, pouring oil down a tube in not a real test.
@@paratrooperlane7022 it’s to see just how fast the oil will move when it’s cold, which is extremely important. That’s a test whether you understand it or you don’t.
@@diegaspumper8501 It's a bullshit test! Wake the fuck up........
Thank you Eric...for being so specific about switching back to conventional oil...breaking the myth that ; once you use synthetic you need to stay with it exclusively. Very detailed and comprehensive. Excellent explanation from previous video confusions. Great Job!
Synthetic oil good for a vortex General Motors 5.3 with 180 thousand miles? Mobile 1 5W30 being used.
@@buddycochransr.1842should work fine. You watched the video right?
@@buddycochransr.1842synthetic is worth it when used in cars but definitely not worth it when used in generators and lawnmower as synthetic oils won't give you any fuel economy and will pretty much Act like a mineral engine oil
I agree Eric.
I learned to changes engine oil when I was 8 years old with my dad. every winter and for the summer.
Thank you so much for the clarity! I'm doing a case competition about Shell's synthetic oil and the market for it, so this video really helped me clarify the difference, especially as a college girl who has never opened the hood of her car XD
I like way Eric educated us he seems Honest guy
Any oil is better than running your engine with no oil.
Unless it's one of those garbage gas station oils with a strange bottle and name. They are highly contaminated with silicon, like 999+ parts per million. Kinda like running wet sand through your engine.
@Colonel Kurtz I think you missed the essence of the comment Einstein.
Not at all. I captured the stupidity of it, that's for sure. And clearly you are embarrassed.
Read a book every once in a while, dullard.
@Colonel Kurtz How ironic that a fool quotes that.
Ha ha. True.
I went to full synthetic at 189,000 miles. After I changed the breather system and a leaking rear main seal. Now going strong at 291,500.
Robert DIY whats your car? did you notice any difference?
Huh? I have a '95 Volvo 850 Turbo. Not sure what you mean by notice any difference. There are a few benefits in using full synthetic oil...
1. You should get about 2% better gas mileage. That is a $2 savings for every $100 spent.
2. You should not have to change your oil as often. So, instead of changing your oil every 3,000 miles, you can change every 4,500 miles (on average). So you save money in oil changes.
3. If your car is turbo, it helps your turbo last longer.
4. Your engine should wear a lot slower.
5. It should clean the inside of your engine better, less risk of sludge build up.
Not so much what you notice, more of a long term benefit.
+Robert DIY Actually full synthetic oil doesn't break down for as long as 40.000 miles. Obviously it still gets dirty but manufacturers are now supplying synthetic when new and their recommended change intervals have generally gone to 15,000km. Use the best filter you can get. For instance so called synthetic filters are made with mesh supports to last longer between changes.
Huh? I have sent oil samples to a lab for analysis and the oil in my car needs to be changed at or before 10,000 miles.
Robert DIY Sorry, I just saw this comment. Thanks for the tips and replying!! I appreciate it.
I think I will start using synthetic with my 2002 toyota
Synthetic vs. "regular" engine oil is just the latest controversy for engine lubrication. Most of you are too young to remember the even greater controversy between detergent, non-detergent, multi-weight and straight weight oils. Back in the day when detergent oil became popular what Eric said about old engines and better oil was really critical with straight weight oil. I saw it happen in 1964 when a friend had a 1956 Pontiac V8 that ran OK buy had a bit of lifter clatter. He poured in a bunch of STP which was the same as switching to detergent oil. The engine literally came apart. We pulled the pan and found most of the piston rings in there. The only thing that had been holding that engine together was all the carbon from years of straight weight non-detergent oil. A guy I worked with in 1970 had a 1958 Chev 6. He was a firm believer in straight weight oil. He went to work one afternoon in Minnesota. By the time we got off work at midnight the temperature had dropped from 45 degrees to 10 degrees. He didn't get that car to start for a week. The same thing happened to a neighbor with his 1968 VW Microbus.
I have been using synthetic oil exclusively for at least 30 years. Besides my cars I use it in my lawn mower and snow thrower. I put synthetic in several used vehicles I bought with 20K to 40K miles and I never noticed any negative effects but I also never had any engine issues or performance problems. I usually drove all those cars well over 100 K miles. I used to do all my own oil changes but in this stage at age 74 and able to afford new cars I let the dealer do it. That's another issue. I always have my vehicles served at a franchised dealer service department.
I had a 2000 Nissan Altima I sold recently. I loved that car and only changed oil every 3k miles. It drove perfect for 18 years.
Eric your channel is one of the very few that I will sit and listen about oil for 11 minutes. you're the man dude.
Hey Eric, thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise!
Spot on eric, I always recommended my customers not switch to synthetic in a high mile engine, because of the seal issues. Even though, I much prefer synthetic.
Been a NIASE certified Master mechanic for 37 years... it is very hard to explain technical information to the general population.... you do a very good job of it... I will direct people who come to me with questions about oil to your videos... thank you for saving me time and money! LOL....
Leaks : Conventional oil will sludge, sludge clogs leaks. Changing your oil & filter will clean some of that sludge out and take it to the filter. Synthetic oil will loosen more sludge up then conventional oil. Once that sludge is gone, like you said, once it starts leaking, it will always leak. I ran synthetic oil in one of my vehicles from 3000 miles on, after 90,000 miles and 7 years no leaks. With that vehicle, i dumped oil & filter every 4 months whether I needed to or not, most dumps were between 3000 to 4000 miles. I would have kept that car, but my job sent me over seas, where unleaded was hard to find at the time.
I agree, it doesn't matter what oil you use as long as you change it. I have always used Walmart supertech motor oil ($12.97 5 quarts) on my 1992 Honda civic which now has 352,000 miles and going strong. I guess part of the reason is because it's a Honda, but the oil helps.
Walmart and Amazon oils are made by the same company, with similar specs to Mobil 1. Mobil 1 is the industry leader hands down great oil. But Walmart and Amazon oils are very good too!!
Good video! Ive been using supertech oil in my cars for years. Change the oil every 4000. Got 285,000 on a Bonneville and 198,000 on a Tahoe. Treat em right and they will treat you right. Let them drain til the last drop when changing oil,
I'm switching to Royal Purple 5w30. My car has just received a swapped 18K mile [3.8l Buick], from a junk yard.
New hoses and headers. Spark plugs. New water pump and thermostat.
Drove around town for a week seems to be okay.
I'm going to put some Royal Purple oil in it to clean it out. Run it 500 more miles then change it again.
Amen, lower priced oils = more oil changes...
Your words did clarify what was happening to my car since I decided to go to from regular to synthetic oil: lot more noise, more leaks, and a new odor from exhaust. Now there is oil where previously it wasn't. Thanks for sharing your high quality knowledge!
You probably put a high detergent oil in an old worn engine..that is a no no..don't ever do that and don't run detergent oil in your lawn mower or generator unless it has a filter
This is the best video on synthetic vs Conventional. Thanks Eric!
Eric, you're the man. Great job! Thanks for the video.
The best explanation I have heard on the topic.
Writing from a Machine tools and manufacturing oriented background, your video is pretty much spot on. Thanks, lubricants are the central factors in mechanical friction assessments. With a few exceptions...
Thanks Eric. I am a retired professor in Mechanical engineering. I would say your speech is so clear, scientific and useful to everyone. Hope you also say something about the best time to change the engine oil. For example when your car has only 4000 Km on it after 2 years !
Nothing is ever machined to absolute perfect specifications, so the first few oil changes on a new engine are extremely important. This is the time when the engine first operates and deals with any minor inconsistencies that may exist in tolerances. This minor "break in period" will produce contaminants that end up in your oil and filter. Getting rid of those contaminants, with an early oil and filter change will go a long way toward the eventual longevity of the engine. Most 2-stroke and 4-stroke small engine manufacturers recommend that the first oil change for new equipment should take place after one to two hours of run time.
I have owned and maintained my cars for over 50 years. I have driven every car I owned to over 100,000 miles and one to 350,000. I have never had a mechanical problem with any of my engines. I regularly change the oil between 3,000 and 4,000 miles. I use inexpensive regular oil. Change your oil regularly and you won't have mechanical problems.
+Bronco Billy agreed. i try to preach the gospel of the sub-5k oil change to all my friends with new cars and "8-15k miles oil change interval" engines/oils. Even if your oil can go that far, its not always about the oil. its about getting eyes on parts of the engine you never see and potentially catching leaks or other issues before they leave you stranded somewhere and a huge repair bill. I also firmly believe in doing as much service work as you can yourself. the better you know your vehicle the more quickly you catch on to problems like that.
I've never had a vehicle break down, and i have had some horrible old rust buckets out of necessity. its all about keeping up with regular basic maintence, oil, cooling system flush, check trans fluid for discoloration at every oil change and drain/fill the moment it starts to turn brownish, rotate tires every other oil change, inspect brake pads and rotors for wear while doing it, etc etc. if you get used to doing it you can do it yourself in the same amount of time it would take you to wait in a lobby at jiffy lube. lol
You get a "Thumbs up" rating from me.
I would love to change my car oil every sub 5k miles..
HOWEVER I use my car to travel up and down the country for my business... I do an average of 32,000 Miles a Year... I would be changing the oi/filter every TWO months.. I simply do not have the time and money to throw at my car to be able to change the oil/filter every two months...
I do however buy the best quality oil that money can buy and change the oil/filter every 10k Miles.
Is this enough???? maybe/maybe not.
exactly, to a point. Depends on quality of build / materials used but in later model cars manufacturers were recommending the 15000k's / 1 year between oil changes as they considered the builds of the cars more superior than in the past but engineers soon came to realise that this was a bad idea and were getting sludge build up on some vehicles with an indication of engine wear happening sooner so went back to 10000k's / 6 month oil changes. No substitute for common sense. Its like the should you fill the oil filter before you put it on, umm yes for me.
Bronco Billy I think you're right. I also change my oil regularly.... Never had a prob. I use CAM 2 OIL... Have been for many years. Every vehicle that I' ve owned lasted into the 200,000 miles or more. Maintain ones vehicle and no probs.
I do my oil change every 3 months. I just did it a few days ago. All the parts I needed came to 30 euro. It probably works out at about 3000 miles between servicing. I buy whatever oil is on offer and go with that. I don't know if this is enough either but I'm hoping that because the cheap oil is not in the engine long enough it is good. I wouldn't want to go 10,000 miles on the cheap stuff though.
I use synthetic because it gets really freaking cold here... and synthetic handles the extreme cold better
PGm issa STFU
@Aaron Cubitt Exactly, because those people can't go anywhere anyway, because it's fucking cold, man!
ISSA VIBEZ ur are so right fuck who don’t like the true talk is cheap mtfs regular oil is better I bet the mechanic is not puttin synthetic oil
It lasts longer too, 7000 as opposed to 3-5 for regular.
Aaron,
I remember then setting low fires under oil pan or keep trucks running.
From northern Canada.
David
Alberta
This is the best video on synthetic and regular oil out there I've watched a few of them this guy gets right to the point makes sense
This is a very good & honest explanation of what can happen both good & bad depending on how each car owner decides to do with their car. I own a 98' lexus gs400, only synthetic oil, changed every 2k miles, premium fuel only, now my car is 23 yrs. old, has 196k miles, & drives awesome!
I changed the oil on my early production 98 GS400 every 25k and at 328K miles (not at fault Accident loss) with oil analysis I used no more than 2 quarts every 25k miles.
However my 08 GS450h I will not go long due to the direct injection
Thanks, I appreciated the straight talk versus marketing hype.
I just changed my old synthetic oil for new regular oil and there is definitely a difference when its cold. The engine cannot put out as much power until the oil warms up and flows easy. My average mpg has also taken a hit. Its doing about 1/2 mile per gallon less now. I think the extra you pay for synthetic oil is well worth it as you will probably get that money back through fuel economy.
Thanks for the pro tip. About to try synthetic at the end of the year when I hit 95K. Original owner here and been using conventional
U R totally right. My 1981 6 liter Cadillac has lived it's 90,000 miles on 10-30 Pennzoil. A year and a half ago I changed to synthetic and then had minor ticking and leaks. Went back to regular oil and engine is happy again. I change the oil and filter twice yearly...Spring and Fall. Tx 4 the heads-up.
Found this vdo thinking about switching from conventional to sythenetic on a 03 S10 w/288k V6 Vortec 4.3. Engine runs like a DREAM (never rebuilt but taken care of-VERY clean inside) and trying to extend another year before I drop the body and restore it. This was such a GREAT vdo explaining the differences. Tks!!!
He's true on synthetic oil in older engines. Also, let us know if Mobil knocks your door as I will stop using their products right-away. You didn't insult any company in anyway.
👍👍👍👍
nukestrom I stopped using Mobil 1 because of hearing and reading of petty law suits to stomp competition, the synthetic they claimed was dino based, their Exxon spill, and they would race advertising Mobil 1 while using a competitor. I was thinking of today of maybe putting some in my Impala until Bob said that. Now I remember these things again. I'll just go with Valvoline since they seem to be the only honest company that sells oil, and their synthetic is truly a synthetic.
Not all Valvoline oils labeled Full Synthetic are 100% synthetic.
Many contain class 3 hydrocracked oil. You have to check the Material Safety Data Sheet MSDS section 3 - If it has DODECYLPHENOL, MIXED ISOMERS, it is 100% synthetic. If sec 3 has Distillates, petroleum, solvent refined heavy paraffinic it has class 3 oil and is not 100% synthetic. Note - Full Synthetic on the label is a marketing term and there is no way to tell what is really in the bottle without checking the MSDS. Unless it says 100% Synthetic on the bottle, it may not be 100% synthetic base stocks.
Jeffery Surratt ..Modern "full synthetic" motor oils ANY major brand most certainly utilizes a mix of group3 & group4 base stocks which is totally fine! The additive packages in them are superior to ANY conventional or Semi- Synthetic oils u can find! Run any Full Synthetic oils such as ..Mobil 1 EP or Pennzoil Platinum or Castrol Edge titanium and your car or truck will last longer run better overall & give optimal performance! Must use a quality oil filter & replace engine air filters at least yearly or 15k mis max! 99% the populace doesn't at all require 100% full synthetic oils w/ group4 / group5 "Ester" base stocks unless ur running ultra high performance vehicles at race speeds in high heat or / or actually racing a vehicle etc. Even then the aforementioned high quality full synthetic groups 3 & 4 mix would still hold up quite well. Ur splitting hairs totally at this pt ...is my whole pt! Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is factory fill for Ferrari, Maserati, Dodge Viper & Dodge Hellcat's! What's that tell ya? Case closed.
Jeffery Surratt ..Modern "full synthetic" motor oils.. ANY major brand most certainly utilizes a mix of group3 & group4 base stocks which is totally fine! The additive packages in them are superior to ANY conventional or Semi- Synthetic oils u can possibility find! Run ANY Full Synthetic oils such as ..Mobil 1 EP or Pennzoil Platinum/ Ultra Platinum or Castrol Edge titanium & your car or truck will last longer ..run better overall & give optimal performance! Must use a quality oil filter & replace engine air filters at least yearly or 15k mis max! 99% the populace doesn't at all require 100% full synthetic oils w/ group4 / group5 "Ester" base stocks unless ur running ultra high performance vehicles at race speeds in high heat or / or actually racing a vehicle etc. Even then the aforementioned high quality full synthetic groups 3 & 4 mix would still hold up quite well. Ur splitting hairs totally at this pt ...is my whole pt! Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is factory fill for Ferrari, Maserati, Dodge Viper & Dodge Hellcat's! What's that tell ya? Case closed.
I'm in total agreement with Eric, and I've been working on cars for 35 years (so seen many generations of cars). I would add to the comments of change your oil - always check the oil level and know where you are. Many cars run around 1-2-3 quarts/litres down and that often coincides with internal engine damage. You may not be leaking oil, but burning it. Always check levels. I run regular oil in my BMW (which shocks the German parts distributor). I haven't damaged an engine since I let one run low of oil in my teens. I also saw a motor recently which had shrapnel blow through the block (also BMW....modern with no dipstick)...he had ignored an oil light!
+Phil Nicholls
My sister in law drove around for two years with the idiot light on. STUPID STUPID STUPID!
Luckily for her it was a bad oil pressure switch, not actual low oil pressure. Good machines deserve better owners than that!
Phil Nicholls ..I avoid German cars like a plague! American or Japanese only ..they run forever when maintained properly.
Thank you for the explaining synthetic and conventional oils and how it affects the engine.
So glad you defended you stance on flow rate and viscosity. I have to do this all the time at work. I work with a lot of hydraulics and when some mechanics I work with say they deal with leaks and I says "maybe move from 40 to 60" same flow rates... Different viscosites.
Hey Eric, I'm a chemist, and the best way to talk about viscosity is whether you can push the fluid around, or whether when you step on a puddle of it, it splatters. It's about how the liquid bonds to itself as a puddle or a drop or a pool. Flow and viscosity are not the same parameter (that is, scientific measurement), but they are closely related, and they correlate almost identically, meaning that if you have one, you have the other doing the same thing.
SeerTrulth Thanks. Good visualisation & simile to understand it.
SeerTrulth Is it similar to the relationship of torque & power? Not the same thing but directly related & one follows the other. That is: Flow as a function of viscosity over time like power is a function of toque over time?
I use Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w40 Turbo Diesel oil in my 1985 318.
Yes. You read that right.
Thanks ! I have been using mobil1 since day one to my 2010 Mazda5 w/ 325k miles... still running strong !
This answers my questions! I do not use synthetic and will stick to my Castrol….I appreciate this info! Oh yes, I have a Chevy HHR 2010 and have 110,000 on it. Yes, changing your oil is the key!
Sir, you made good points. Great video. Thank you Sir for your honest review.
typically synthetics- being man made are made from a smaller molecule and thus more easily escape past rings, seals and gaskets. the trade off is as said that the synthetics have better flow rates for lubricating, cooling and washing carbon out of the engine and into the sump.
synthetics also being made made from smaller molecules, penetrate the micron surfaces of metals better than petroleum oils and thus clean, lubricate and cool better.
synthetics- being man made- not from carbon base oils, do not break down into a carbon form. certainly carbon will blow past the rings but the lubricant itself will not digress into a carbon form like petroleum oils.
if you take note of any engine that has been run ONLY with synthetics, they don't have the gigantic carbon flower growing around the intake valves that disrupt airflow into the cyl. it may have some, very little, but is substantially reduced in comparison to petroleum oils. this helps your engine make more power over the long haul and increases it's overall efficiency through airflow characteristics. if the manufacturer wanted a big carbon blob on the intake valve- they would have made the engine with a big blob on the intake valve.
synthetics having no carbon in their base also do not pollute the atmosphere with carbon like carbon based petroleum based oils. crankcase gases that are reburned to vent case pressure may contain some carbon from combustion bypass gases, but not from the oil itself or additives evaporating at high temps.
I work in as a factory Maintenance technician. During our training with our Oil supplier reps he stated that Synthetic oil is still dino oil but just refine to a higher quality. The refinement makes all the molecules similar in size. Which allows for less friction and lower heat buildup. In turn less deposits. Most oil brands also add their own proprietary blend of additives four anti-wear and detergent purposes. But whether conventional or synthetic is still refined from crude oil.
The best ever explanation of oils, I have ever seen. Just the facts and mechanical experience, that was outstanding Eric. Many thanks 😸🍻
Man you and scotty kil is dominating the entire industry.. thanks so much!
11:15 Hey EricTheCarGuy , thank you for your honesty. I hope people commend such bravery.
05 gmc yukon 280k miles cheap conventional oil from day 1,the engine doesn't burn a drop of oil all original seals except oil pick up o ring ,change your oil people even if it's olive oil hahaha
engines that are not stressed by heavy loads or speed tends to last longer, most specially bigger engines.
I found Lucas oil stabilizer is a great product to use when you change your oil to reduce or prevent leaks and noise. It also has the benefit of keeping your oil from breaking down if it overheats reducing the chance of damage in less severe cases. Since the stabalizer thickens oil I think you can use a combination of synthetic oil and sabalizer in a worn engine. If your engine is already leaky or noisy then combining the stabalizer should be chosen over switching to synthetic.
good video, I have known these points for years because I researched them. To that I totally agree with your info in this video. Been using Mobil one since 1995.
very clear explanation. you would make a great teacher.
But he is, he teaches on CZcams/internet.
Awesome video.
One of the things that I read about synthetic is that the synthetic oil is refined more, and that the molecules are therefore of much more uniform in size, and on average smaller than the molecules in conventional oil. That's why the viscosity of synthetic and conventional can be the same, but synthetic will leak more through the same seals.
Synthetic is engineered for tighter tolerances in newer (roughly post-1990) cars, but works just fine in older cars. However, conventional motor oil may not work as well in the newer cars because it's more prone than synthetic to sludging.
An example of this is the Chrysler LHS 2.7L V6. It was engineered with smaller oil passages because synthetic was recommended for the engine. Customers bought the cars and the engines ran great, but as soon as they started dumping conventional oil into them, the engines sludged up and started seizing like crazy.
My sister-in-law had one of these cars. She ran synthetic in it and the engine ran fine for years. However, she later decided to make a couple of ten-hour-long trips and without doing an oil change. She's the kind of person that just doesn't pay close attention to maintenance like that. Example: the oil pressure switch went bad and she just drove the car for two years with the idiot light on.
Soon after her long trips, the water pump in the car went bad. I ended up changing out the water pump and the timing chain for her, and had to change out the oil and filter at the same time. Lo and behold, the sludgiest oil I had ever seen! She ended up selling the car to a buddy of mine for $400 (he was going through a divorce at the time and couldn't afford more). That was also when we replaced the oil pressure switch. We drove the car for a week and changed the oil and filter again. Its condition was improved to "nasty."
The car ended up running for about another year. Then the engine seized (luckily the buddy got a little cash that same week and upgraded to a better car).
Long story short: Sludge will kill newer engines (and some are more prone to this than others). Synthetic was developed especially to combat this problem. Changing oil regularly and using what's recommended is a good thing. Ignoring oil changes will absolutely murder engines.
I worked as a lab technician for an oil processing/packaging Co. You are right. You can by the generic brands of oil and they are just as good as the more expensive brands. Because it is the same oil! When a tank of oil is blended with base oils and additives for say 5w30, and meets the correct specifications after being checked in the on site labratory, it is then ok'd for packaging in quarts, gallons, etc. Many different oil labels are used for the oil in that tank. Some are ones that are rather popular. I won't name names. As long as oil meets correct specifications the brand doesn't matter.
I agree with everything you said...too many people think that synthstic means "once a year"...I change oil 4 times a year. Another issues is multi-grade ( say 15-40)vs straight 30 ( for example). If you look at actual specs...shear point, vaporization point, all are far better
Cut and dry. No BS. I love it.
My engine does exactly what he says. Synthetic leaks out past the rear main seal even though I had the seal replaced by a well known Honda specialist. A good conventional motor oil changed at regular intervals is fine by me and no leaks!
Did you go back to regular oil and it stopped?
Eric : Thank you for your videos It's a big help especial for sharing your wisdom and experience. God bless you.
Hey, man. I love your videos. Very articulate, and very easy to follow. Thank you!
In a comment below, somebody said "If you listen to Eric, he says that old oil break down and become too thin.
I listened to Eric and understood the opposite. Old oil become more thick, as in become mixed with burnt hydrocarbon (which become acidic).
The acid dissolve thin layers of metal anywhere in the motor which then mix with the oil. These microscopic pieces of metal are abrasives.
The old oil is like a liquid sand paper. It makes every moving part rubbing harder and accelerating the destruction of the motor.
The acid also attack the rubber, making the seals hard and brittle.
If you buy synthetic oil 10W30, for example, it will appear the same thickness as normal oil with the same rating of 10W30.
The thickness is the same when pumping thru pipes, the oil sensor detect the same pressure, the only difference happen at the point when two parts are in close contact and moving.
Synthetic oil is a "non newtonian" liquid. Look at videos where people can walk on a baby swimming pool filled with corn starch, but start sinking as soon as they stop running.
Synthetic oil flow smoothly, like water, at the exact points where two metal objects are moving, like in the bearing. This save gas because it resist less to moving parts. This "non newtonian" easy flow happen even when cold.
I presume that such oil flow thru damaged sealing because of slight motion created by the vibration. If the seal flex a little, the oil may become temporarily more liquid at that point like it does between moving parts. Over time, it keep creeping thru cracks, get trap in portion of the gasket then resume when vibration make it liquid again.
I totally agree with you. here in Russia everyone is crazy about synthetic oil. they say you can't blend synthetic and conventional, can't eveny blend synthetic with synthetic if brand is different. my VW 2011 runs on cheap oil and it's OK. 9O OOO miles. but I keep argueing with my friends.
+Vitaliy Kanunnikov your friends are wrong. we have regular and synthetic oil blended together and sold here in USA. the important thing is to change oil and filter every 4-5000 miles no matter what type of oil you use. this is what prolongs a motors life.
+stormbringerr mourn agree.
This video helped alot. I appreciate it, sir. I was under the impression that you could go from conventional to synthetic but not from synthetic to conventional(this told to me by mechanics/auto parts store salesmen. This really helped. My tj has been good about oil leaks got everything rewelded, new oil pan, im just afraid to out synthetic and discover a new leak. 2000 jeep tj 4.0 L6. Thanks for the info! This helped tremendously.
Very good video!
In the event an engine had a coolant leak and driven hot with full synthetic oil in the crankcase; the oil will not break-down when heated to temperatures above 300 degrees F as conventional/regular engine oil will or does.
Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil does not have the “Heavies” to fall into the oil pan to become sludge or “Lights” to flash off and go past the rings and out the tailpipe leaving less protection.
Mobil 1 full synthetic engine oil is fractionated from natural gas and is formulated to be the same viscosity for 25,000+ miles. The synthetic oil doesn’t wear out, it gets dirty though.
You can change the filter and add a quart every 5,000 miles if you want too.
If you change the oil every 3,000 miles, it’s not worth the extra money for the synthetic oil unless you run the engine hot!
I’ve used Mobil 1 full synthetic engine oil for last 30 years in my Corvette, F-150, CJ-5 and lawnmower.
I always change oil every 3,000 miles or 6 months, whichever one comes first. Sure it is probably overkill, but for what it costs, peace of mind is priceless. When I purchase my next vehicle with low miles I will go with synthetic. In the meantime, I use regular 5w30 for my 1996 Ford Thunderbird LX V8 and change it myself. The car has 140,000 miles and the reason I don't switch to synthetic goes into what this video talked about. I don't want to fix something that isn't broken and risk having anything leak. Anyway, it is what Ford recommends for my engine and as far as I know it's the same oil the previous owner used. Btw, some people may argue with this, but I wouldn't go to any express oil changing business. I'm not bashing anyone that works hard at any of these places, but it only takes that one person who doesn't know what their doing to destroy your vehicle. Take care folks
No reason to change oil on a time interval basis. It doesn’t break down just sitting there. It’s not milk!
my old engine seems to prefer synthetic with a little Lucas honey..Call me crazy but if I get generic it blows smoke..get full synthetic and Lucas and it is fine
seems oil is seeping through the seals somewhere. Lucas make it thicker
Eric as a retired CAT&CUMMINGS DIESEL MECHANIC I was asked many times about oils 🛢and I always said use what you like. Because when you talk about types of oil it's like opening a can of WORMS 🪱🙃
I appreciate your videos. Your down to earth approach and honesty is awesome!
Great Video I would love to see you do a comparison between AMSOIL 100% Synthetic Signature Series vs Motul vs Redline vs Royal Purple vs Mobil 1 Anual Protection
DURABLEOIL.COM project farm has done a lot of comparison tests between the various oil brands recently.
Synthetic will last longer and not break down but it gets dirty just like conventional oil.
Dirty oil causes wear to engine parts. End of story!
Change your oil people!
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+Michael Long I was just going to leave the same statement. I use regular motor oil and change it every 4,000 miles so that I can get that dirty oil out of there.
+salazarvic2 Yeah, it just changes the interval to change your oil,
+Michael Long .....and filter at the same time............
+Michael Long Actually, some oils are better than others at "suspending" the dirt particles so they can get dirtier before causing wear.
Excellent video-- covered all points clearly and precisely.
The real problem with modern engines and their "extended" oil change intervals is extended accumulation of fine debris particles in the oil, itself.
No matter how wonderful a conventional or synthetic oil may be, contaminants circulating across engine wear surfaces accelerates engine wear.
Change the oil every 3,000 miles, especially if driving in urban traffic.
I bought a "16 Camry in 2016 and was told by the dealership to use full synthetic. Have been doing it since today and I plan on this engine lasting for a long time.
Everything you said made perfect sense to me. Thank you for sharing.
In new England cars rust out before the benefits of using synthetic oils will be had.
In Finland its a most to use full synthetic in the winter time
Wlell, synthetics (assuming your car is a newer model) allows for easier starting.
Unless you have a car whose engine's requirements can't be met with a mineral oil.
I still cant believe more people don't use krown.
Move
2003 Acura TL 187,000 Miles. Just switched from Synthetic Blend to High Mileage Full Synthetic, no leaks so far. The car loves it!
Just got rid of my '91 F-150, used Wal-Mart Super Tech conventional oil, now driving a 2015 Ford Fusion, so I wasn't well versed on synthetic oil. Thanks for informative video.
I put honey in with my oil and get good results - exhaust smells great as well.
+Mr2pint pro tip
+Mr2pint I use peanut butter and jelly.
When you sweeten your tea, do you use Mobile-1 or generic 10-40?
I add a lil KY, makes it funner
Top Gear already tried maple syrup. Lard works better.
eric, you have to speak your mind and not worry about the technicality's. just say what you know.
I'd say "Eric" is very well versed in the physics of things.
I've been around plenty of blocks to know when someone knows what they're talking about.
Eric is an analysist.
I CHANGE MY ENGINE OIL ON TIME, AND EVERY TIME IT APPEARS ON DASH OF THE CAR AND SAYS CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON, I ONLY USE FULL SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL, AND I CHANGE MY ENGINE OIL EVERY THREE MONTHS OR 3000 MILES, AND IT'S AN 08 GRAND MARQUIS, GOD IS BLESSING YOU AND YOUR FAMILY
Changing the oil takes about 20 mins. don't be a procrastinator or lazy!
I remember when I was terrified to do it and now I could do it with my eyes shut. Something satisfying about it too.
Yeah 20 mins try doing an oil change on a german car lmao
Alyn Romero I can do it on my BMW wtf are you talking about?
I simply change the oil every 3000 miles on my PT Cruiser 2003. So far all good, specially when I am not the 1st owner, because he never gave the deserved love to that car.
+Joey Cymbals PT Cruisers don't deserve any love.
+Chromedragon79-> Focus on the main topic, cause I have no interest in debate childishness with you.
+Joey Cymbals they had a small point. PT cruisers have the turning radius of a panzer.
+Joey Cymbals I figured since you drive a PT Cruiser you'd be able to take a joke. Apparently not.
They aren't laughing with you +Joey Cymbals.
+Chromedragon79 Dude, is the only car I have /aford so far for $1600 when moved. Am I looking for a new better one? YES, but now all I can do is care to make it last, otherwise no one will take me to work.
Knowing the horrendous record of synthetic oils in piston aircraft, I follow this guide: If running an engine often, synthetic good. Spend lots of time parked? Just say no to synthetics (or, at the very least, fortify it with something like Cam Guard).
I read an article of a 1990 s Honda crx with over a million miles on it. Proper maintenance , oil and filter changes tuneups is the key to longevity.
I look forward to buying the cheap Dino oil for my 34 year old car haha
I use a synthetic blend it works just fine
elr2141979 lab results show that a synthetic blend will be fine for 8-15k miles. If you want to go 18-35k miles, then you need a fully synthetic oil and perhaps a filter swap near 17.5-18k miles.
thanks to Eric the car guy this video to help to maintain my car civic 2000 model for past 19 yrs.still running
When engine noise started in an old 77 chevy farm truck I had. Used 10_30. Swapped over to 15_40 and helped a lot with knocking. More dinosaurs in the mix
28,740 miles, due for my annual Amsoil 5w30...1993 Ford 2.0...(with almost 300k miles)
P.S. , the used oil will get put back into use in the garden tractors......
28740 miles oil change!!! Amsoil is that good? Do you replace your filter in between changes? I calculate you drive about 14000 miles per year. I would like to have that oil tested after a 2 year stint inside that 2.0 Ford. That's a very long time, perhaps you have one of those recirculating paper filters, but somehow I don't think you have.
good luck with that mike
Thanx ! Changing right at the 30k mark.....
and yes, filter changes at 10k......
All I can say is, proof is in the pudding. Have been a mechanic for 20+ years. When the high end GM V6's came out in the caddys, 2.8, 3.2, 3.6, recommended oil was Mobil1 synthetic, no problems. GM started putting these engines, the 3.6, in other vehicles, with regular oil recommended, and there have never been so many timing chain issues since. Were the using different chain material for the 3.6...nope. Only a difference in oil. As for leaks on older engines. On a high mileage, poorly maintained, worn out engine....synthetic or conventional may cause a leak just from the fresh detergents in the oils cleaning the gum and sludge away from the 15 year old/200K rubber gaskets.
they need to $ pay $ to get the water pump timing chain/belt and crank and head seals done it'll save the motor in some "interference heads" as well, but that's another video!
Thank You Eric🙂 You have helped me tremendously to have clarity on the difference between synthetic and conventional oils!! 👍👍 Very informative and helpful!! Thanks again!!👍👍🙂
Thanks for answering my questions in less than 1 minute.. literally looking for this answer for awhile 👍🏽