I been looking for some Shovelhead videos forever. Please keep these coming. Very clear and helpful. You do a fantastic job of explaining. I would like to see a Shovelhead engine tear down and what to look for.
Thank you for the instructional videos. I worked on Harleys with my Dad when I was younger......he passed 2 years ago and I'm neck deep in ironhead parts and bikes. Currently working on one of his last (started) projects, 78 shovelhead that was tore down 20 some years ago. Love your videos! Keep up the good work!
Videos never too long. Can never have enough good information and advice from the Man himself 😎👍 I will Definitely be using your videos as instructional guidance when I get to my Shovel project. Cheers Man once again
picked up 2 great tips. the oil line fitting drill-out and the 12-point bolts. like a fine wine, we are improving with age. What's better than that. Thank you Mike!
Hi Pacific Mike, Thank you for making these videos,I have been doing my own shovel heads for years..Its just really nice to see a person doing the same work and letting me know that what I have been doing somethings right..And some things wrong.. I am going to enjoy watching your different videos.. Thank you once again,my new mentor..
Pacific Mike Sir your videos are not only helpful,but they are entertaining as well.. Pay TV should have a channel dedicated to this sort of thing,instead of those biker build off thingies...jmo.
Good to see shovelhead videos on here that are very descriptive with a mechanics own experience on techniques to get things to be put back together. As an owner of twin cams and evos I hope to one day find and restore a lowrider shovel. These videos only made my enthusiasm to own one rise, keep up the good work!
They 're really nice, in their place. I don't rush motor work, and this sounds pretty picky, but I really don't want to scar chrome fasteners. But those are great tools, especially since the manufacturers have managed to make them so much more compact than they were years ago.
@@pacificmike9501 Totally agree! The size difference in modern pieces is much appreciated. Chrome hardware is good to be precautionary with, parkerized is nice for the simple fact it's tough, but you can never beat a good show-chrome, that's for sure!! Keep up the great videos, you're teaching a whole new generation, kudos.
Thanks Mike for these great explanations just ordered a dogbone torque adapter. A really helpful tool 😉👍 I really love my shovel FLHP and want to keep it on the road
I thought the fishline was pretty funny. But it works! My newest invention. I was taught to torque that way as a kid. Too old to remember exactly when that was, but there weren't any shovelheads yet.
Looking forward to your next video routing the oil lines thank you for sharing. I have a 1980 FLT Shovelhead that I'm trying to get sorted out. It has a couple of oil leak problems and possibly needs a new carburetor. I rebuilt the old carburetor but it still doesn't seem to run right all the time. I'll keep watching your videos and see if I can learn more and tweak some more thanks.
You need an 1980 FLT Service manual. It will show you proper routing of your oil lines. I'm assuming you're using the original carburetor. All of the circuitry runs through the float bowl and it's really hard to clean. Good luck and step up and buy a book.
I dig your videos and your "Welcome To Mikes Garage" starting point is extra cool 😎. Question do you put the rear cylinder on first for a reason? Thanks again for the great videos !
@@pacificmike9501 It's a bear of a job on a 79 Low Rider , supper tight between rocker box and frame . I learned something rear first. again thanks really dig your vids !
Mike, I am putting the heads on a 64 panhead. Head bolts I used were NOS. I mis-read a Clymers manual and as a result, I used silver anti-seize on the head bolts and tightened it down to 65ft lb. I later read that anti-seize changes (reduces) the torque poundage requirement because the threads are lubed - by 25% or so. Assuming correct I have over torqued the heads by 25%. My opinion after what reading I could to is that I should probably be OK to leave it this way. 2 risks - (a) because the head bolts are lubed they may have a tendency to loosen (b) the bolt is stretched somewhat and should I re-do this, replace them. I tightened it all down in 5lb increments, criss-cross pattern - so assuming all is evenly tightened, no risk to the head to cylinder surfaces. I'd appreciate your perspective on this. Thanks very much in advance whatever you have time for.
I'd probably take it back apart and clean it all up. If not, check and recheck your torque setting at close intervals until you don't find any changes. Too much torque can do damage, either warping or pulling threads. Those heads are hard to replace.
Happy New Year Mike. I wanted to thank you again for these educational how to videos so when the time comes I can do my own r and r on my 1980 FLH80 cylinder heads, rocker boxes, and cylinders when it becomes necessary. One thing I discovered is that this particular Flh has the o-ring heads and I know AMF did some using up of inventory parts but not sure if since this bike was built Feb. 1980 mfg. date as confirmed by the HD Archive Dept. Wondering if way back when all the problems with the unleaded gas if the 1980 rubber band heads had to be swapped out for the earlier o ring heads by HD dealer repair and or an indy like you. Any guesses you might come up with are good enough for me. The motor runs good and cold compression tests 135 ish both front and rear. For now I am going to leave well enough alone and just ride and enjoy this shovelhead see you out on the road as you like to say.
Happy New Year! Lucky you. I'll bet someone was playing with hot camshafts and wanted to use better (earlier) cylinder heads to avoid the clearance issues of the later heads. Whatever the reason, you are better off with what you have. And, I appreciate the good news your motor is in good shape.
Mike @@pacificmike9501 , Good on you for the explanation. I try to be in tune with what the Shovel is telling me as I am have learned a lot from your educational videos, particularly how to run the original hydraulic inserts and how to adjust them. As a mater of fact after watching your videos I just had to have one to spin a few wrenches myself. I removed the solid conversion toadstools and found some original pass the service manual test Hydraulic Inserts from the Moco and now run those. An original Tom Sifton 112 Cobra Cam .440 lift was one of the goodies I discovered poking around in the cam chest and inspecting the rollers.
That is a great cam. Tom Sifton's cams were some of the greats in the industry. There were so many guys designing cams. I love the way his ran. He ran a lot of long duration stuff. Long about 60 mph, they start huffing bigtime.
Mike! I can’t thank you enough for these videos. You’ve convinced me to tear down and go over my shovel head vs paying someone else to do it. Couple questions: how did you clean / polish / paint the motor? Seems like you sent some of it out for that, who do you recommend? I need a video series just like this for a panhead motor. I really want to buy one this year and refresh it myself Thank you again
@@pacificmike9501 I also ran into a issue with S&S heads, they state in the destruction's... 🤣 That they recommend using anti-seize on the headbolts. Well unfortunately I ended up stretching and snapping one of the 1038CP headbolts. Luckily I was able to remove it without breaking off in the head. What would you recommend I do? I went against my better judgement on this. Built a few race engine's in my life and never used anti-seize.
Awesome! Some day my Low Rider will be tore down to this level and redone. I LOVE shovels too, NOT the shitty quality from the AMF days, but still very much the machine. I NEED Jim's garage. ;-)
Why are guys still harping on AMF? You know, Harley was going down the drain. AMF took them over, with all their problems and worn out tooling and kept them alive. They did awful things to us, like alternators and disc brakes. When I got my new AMF, I thought I'd died and gone to heaven. So I rode the hell out of it. I live in Southern California, but I've ridden my AMF to Sturgis, Canada, and places people don't even need to know about. Last bunch of figuring totaled about 400,OOO miles. I've never owned a bike that didn't need some improvements, so cut them some slack and make your improvements. By the way, the reason this shovel was torn down this far was because the frame was way damaged in a major collision. Enjoy your bike. We're so fortunate to have them. Thanx
couldn't agree more Mike...if it wasn't for AMF Harley would be a thing of the past. i dont think AMF will ever get the credit they deserve. could you imagine Harley and no softail or the twin cam let alone the evo and none of it would had happened if they were not bailed out. AMF was involved for what about 12-13 yrs???...i wonder when people will realize those will be the bikes to have, which happen to be the Shovelhead era
Pacific Mike have to agree Mike....just tore my yuppie 17 limited down for a cam,oil pump and oil pressure gauge because I wanted too. But my evo and shovel do have more sole......thank you for what u do.....
Mike, you mention that the cylinder heads you are using are 'STD' heads, and I see 3 exhaust port studs instead of just one. Do you recommend STD heads over stock? Where can I get a set? Thanks.
I don't know that they are available at this time. I like them and have a pair. They are certainly high performance units. I'll be showing them off very soon as I install them.
Hey guy thanks for the video. I bought an 83fxsb 1340 last year that had a fresh rebuild on the top end. Compression was 120 per cylinder. Noticed there was oil leaking from around the head gaskets and decided to check the cylinder bolts. They were all pretty loose. I tightened them all while on the side of the road as good as I could get them with a 9/16 box end and got the bike home. Are these common to loosten up? Are my gaskets shot now or can I go about re torquing them and get away with it. Thanks appreciate any help and keep up the videos. 1340 the same torque specs? 65lbs?
Tough call. I would replace them and torque properly. Run the bike a little, let it cool down and retorque them. What you can get away with is fine. But being thorough avoids problems later. Thank you.
@@pacificmike9501 Hey really appreciate the reply and advice... So is this common for the cylinder to head bolts to loosen up on their own, or do you think the guy just didn't torque them properly? Should I be checking these periodically?
Can't be sure. But, he probably didn't retorque them after a few "heat cycles." This is standard procedure prior to Evo motors, which have their own procedures. Plus, I check my Shovel and earlier motors until I'm sure, they've "taken a set."
@@pacificmike9501 right in man I bet your right. He just had it rebuilt shortly before he sold it and I bet it just had the initial torque settings. I'm gonna try to get away with re torquing them and see what happens. Really appreciate the quick response and great advice. Have a great day today man ✌️
Enjoy. You can retorque it more than once also. But, if the gaskets became damaged, you'll have to replace them. Ride it carefully, like you're breaking it in. Just for a while.
Hey Mike, I bought an '84 Shovelhead. The manifold is not aligned correctly. Do I have to change the head gasket if I want to adjust the heads? Greetings from Germany Peter
Definitely. It's a pain, but if the last guy didn't align the manifold, then remove the heads and start over. Sometimes, depending on how it is aligned now, you can do just one head. I'd probably do them both.
@@pacificmike9501 I have now loosened the heads, but even when I turn the heads there is always a gap of about 2mm. It's an '84 Shovel FLH. (Matching Numbers)
Mike I have a question, I hope you can help. I have bought aftermarket heads from v twin. Seem to be good heads. I have installed then on a generator shovel head. The band stile intake from s&s, is to narrow and leaks. Can you recommend a proper intake..Zimms sells a stroker intake. Sizes vary. I was told this might be what I need to do. but I don't know what one I need to get
I wonder if you "set" the heads carefully before torqueing them down. I mean, did you fit the intake manifold? Sometimes (for a host of reasons), the cylinders are not the same length (or, I should say "height"). Ive turned them down on a lathe to match. These are all "oddball" problems that come up when building stuff that's been through a lot of hands. I can only guess when I can't physically see the problem. Those heads should turn far enough. Maybe the cylinders are short. I've seen them shortened in an effort to raise compression.
@@pacificmike9501 I better re check . Already had motor jump up to about 2,500 rpm .I don't want to mess up this fresh rebuild. Heads and cylinders both new. Bought from v twin. Motor is a compleat rebuild . First time in 22 years
Hey Mike Thank you for being a true Teacher. Watching and Listening to your videos are very comforting. You certainly come across as a Professional in the trade. I have a 1980 FLH. I have owned this bike for about 41 years. I"ve been through 6 different HDs in my life. I presently own the FLH and a custom FXST. My FLH is dual plugged. New coils and I still end up with one plug fouling on the front jug. The motor has stock cases with the "S&S 93 hot set up" installed a few years back. I'm running with the motor with solid lifters. I do not know the stroke, however; and would appreciate any info on how to determine what the stroke is. It is a big bore jug set up that was part of the S&S hot set up kit. I also would like to know what kind of spark plug your using and the gap settings for a dual plugged head. Thank you Brother for your time.
The reach of the plug id dependent upon the location and manufacture of the heads. Measure the length (depth) of the plug holes. the rights and lefts could differ greatly. Using late Harley Shovel heads, I used to use RN12YC in the left side and RJ12YC in the right. I set the plugs at .030 instead of the usual .040. My STD heads use RN12YC on both sides. Your stroke is (probably) 4 5/8. Big bore cylinders are probably 3 5/8. Just an educated guess.
@@pacificmike9501 The heads are 1979 or 1980 stock heads with the S&S valve kit that came with the 93" Hot setup. The plugs are short on the cone side . I've been using AC plugs. I'll invest in what you mentioned and let you know the out come. Thank you for your attention to my motor specs. Thank you for Your Time.
I never understood why leaks on the intake manifold are called “vacuum” leaks. There is no vacuum just air coming in from outside the manifold where it shouldn’t come from and leans out the fuel mixture and screws up the idle.
They are called " vacuum leaks" because the pistons going down in the cylinders sucking air through the intake manifold creates "vacuum." This vacuum is being lessened by leaks through the maniold. In other words, due to one or more leaks in the manifold, that vacuum is being defeated and diluted. It affects more than just "idle." It affects all of the engines running and causes the cylinders to run unevenly.
after you torque down the head do you let it sit over night, then the next day crack them loose a little , and re-torque? You mentioned you will allow it to go through a couple of heat cycles..would that be the point to do that or just leave it? Thank you.
Run it, heat it up to operating temp. Let it sit overnight to cool completely. Then, retorque to the recommended torque setting. Do not loosen. After retorquing, run it again up to operating temperature. Let it cool completely again. Retorque it. Do this three or four times. Then put a couple hundred miles on it, let it cool completely and torque it again.
procedure. Sorry, my computer is giving me grief. After a couple of heat cycles, the bolts will take a set and not require this procedure. Then ride it for a while and repeat the procedure to make sure. Always let it cool completely before retorquing.
You didn't give me quite enough information. Solids or hydraulics? If they're solids, with aftermarket pushrods, you have different length pushrods. With stock hydraulics and stock pushrods, the pushrods are all the same length. With solids, and aftermarket pushrods, the pushrods are two, if not three different lengths. If this is the case, the front exhaust is the longest pushrod. The intakes are the two shortest. If there is one pushrod left, that is longer than those two, it is the rear exhaust. If, after that, the rear intake won't go into place, it must be CAREFULLY pryed into place, staight up with a well padded large screwdriver. Do no pry against the fins. We have not yet showed adjusting hydraulic lifters. Again, don't know what you have.
What do you do when you put a motor in make sure you put washers and bolts in it will you ever tighten her down boys I'm telling you watch your fingers
Hello Mike, Once again your videos are great and I'm sure are helping many folks out there. I'm just completing a top end rebuild on my '57 Pan and the jugs are on and I just buttoned up the heads and put the valve covers on. My bike had never been apart and was still on the standard bore. I re-used the mechanical low profile stock lock nuts on the rocker arm blocks. Do you think that was a mistake? Should I have used new ones? I ask because my bike is very original and there are a couple of these style nuts on the bike and they have been on and off and have never backed off on their own. I should mention I did not use any locktite on the rocker block nuts. In your experience have you ever had an issue using the original mechanical lock nuts on the rocker blocks and had any back off?? I know some folks use nylocs and I guess that works too if you have the clearance to do so.
I've never had a problem with them backing off. I've reused original nuts. What I normally do is use low profile nylock nuts. I don't loctite them. Local hardware store stocks them or order a bag of them online. I'm sure McMaster Karr carries them. A 57 Pan and you're the first guy to open it. That's terrific.
@@pacificmike9501 Hi Mike, thanks for your reply and knowledge. If you have time I have a couple quick questions more pertaining to my '57 pan valve train. First, since it is an original '57 it came with the pads on the tops of the exhaust valve stems; I'm using stock valve replacements and wondered if I should use the pads on top of the valve stems, as was done when originally built? I think it gives more of area for the rocker to pivot on so seems like the right thing to do, but I'm not sure if the replacement valves overall length is slightly longer than the OEM valve and if this slight increase in length by using the pad would throw off the geometry at all? Second question is...do you think the intake oilers are effective and need to be re-installed? Thank for your help!
Yes, the intake oilers are important. As for these pads and your valve lengths, I'm not sure what you've got. Perhaps you ought to have someone in your area with knowledge have a look at it.
Thanks for your thoughts. The local shop that is near me has been in business 40yrs and say they are not familiar with them. Funny because they are clearly shown in manuals. I imagine you have done the valves in your pan; were they not present when you took possession of the bike? If they were then I'm assuming you changed the valves at some point so what did you do? Thanks Mike.
Excellent videos Mike. I noticed you leave your shovel heads factory finished, with the “Blonde” crank case and heads, and black cylinders. What is your opinion of having the entire engine black? I’m rebuilding mine and considering blacking it out and polishing the edges of the cooling fins.
I assume you're doing an Evo motor. Since the evo has aluminum cylinders, you can polish the edges of the fins. With cast iron, if you polish them, they'll rust. All black motors? That's become a modern tradition. I like the old traditions and the beautiful details of the old motors.
Hey mike. I have learned tons from you but the one thing I dont know how to do is adjust my valves or rocker arms or what have you. Can you help me? The bike is a 1977 fly with of course a 74 inch shovelhead.
@@pacificmike9501 your my new addiction,love your giving heart.you have such a calm and peaceful tranquility about you,my wife asked me,why you start watching all this,i said its cheaper than your rain machine. THANK YOU
Hey Pacific Mike, we just built a shovelhead bike and after about 700 trouble free miles, it blew the dipstick out of the oil tank when starting. Any ideas?
Hi Mike, I noticed that you mentioned that on the "old " type Head gaskets,you have used some grease or sealant to hold them on...I have always been under the belief that you should not use anything on the head gaskets...So are you saying that it is ok to use a gasket sealant on a head gasket? The reason I ask this is because I have a reoccurring (say around every 2/12-3 years)rear head gasket blowing on my 1981 FLHS,and always around the oil passage..Should I/can I apply a little gasket sealer around this area?The head mating surface is flat,and so is the cylinder surface Currently I am going to use a blue teflon type of head gasket..Any feed back would be appreciated
I used to use a sealant with copper in it. I suspect, however, that you have a "low spot" in either the cylinder or the head surface. If this is not so, perhaps you're not retorquing the head. I usually torque the head according to the factory torque specs. Then run the motor until it comes up to full temp. Shut it down, let it cool completely. Then, retorque the head and cylinder fasteners. You can do this several times. Then run it for a couple hundred miles and do it one more time. By this time, they have taken a "set." Use a torque wrench to be exact.
Pacific Mike There are no flat spots,I have measured and had a machine shop check my work,just for good measure.(and because I always doubt my own work). However I definitely do not re tension the heads more than once and that is usually after 200 miles or so..So that will definitely be a changed practice.Thank you.. Another thing is that I have just ordered the small torque adapter I saw you using,I feel these two new things may just be the thing I needed. Hopefully in the future we might get to see you change bearings and races in the steering Head,and the correct way to check them for adjustment.I have done this once just not confident about it.. One more thing....If I change to an enclosed belt drive on my 1981 FLHS, can I use the old clutch hub,pressure plates and clutch plates in a dry primary,or will I have to get different ones.. Thank you and regards..
I never know who stays up with what, so, if I repeat myself, please tolerate me. I forgot to mention checking the inserts casted into your cylinder heads. After installing and retorquing over the years, the inserts will pull a thread or two down, or the head will have been surfaced. It's not difficult for a machinist to mill each insert to give it a "counterbore." Next question: Buy a belt drive that utilizes your components and is intended for what you're going to do, ie. "intended for electric start and stock enclosed primary housing," or "open primary, kickstart only."
so ... Mike ... does this "loose" Head Trick apply to EVO's too ?? when installing the Intake Manifold ? COOP ..............................................
Great video Mike. You mentioned be careful on cam selection on 81 because they had clearance issues. I have an 83 FXR what would be a good streetable cam to use with stock heads?
Thank you. The catalogues are full of cams. Read what they're intended for. Then, make you're selection and see what you like. It has to do with you and your purpose. The cams will go from "good low end and midrange to "all out racing." It will say whether or not "modifications" are required. It will say if it's for a "big stroker" or "stock displacement" and "solid or hydraulic lifters." Cams are a real "personal" thing.
Yes, they were quite an improvement by STD. By the way, they are awesome heads and flow like crazy. Only problem is, you gotta make your own pipes. Glad you're enjoying our videos. Thank you.
Mike,Great videos I tell ya, Did you ever work on Cars? Heavy vehicles or Machinery,Imports,Etc? I haven't watched all your videos so I don't know,But so far This is pretty good.....
Hello Mike, great video. I have an 81 fx that I am doing a frame up restoration, I am gonna do at least a top end on the motor so I know what condition it is in and see what cam is in it. I was told it is an Andrews but you never know if you don't check it out. The bike is 38 years old and who knows how many hands have been in it, what type of head gasket are you using?
I use thread locker when I think it,s needed. I don't like to use it in aluminum very often. Threads are only so strong and I'll be back there again. When those aluminum threads go, then I have to helicoil. I like lockwashers and safety wire. I like locktabs, and sometimes threadlocker is great.
Lovin the videos Mike! I am workin on a 74 shovel at the moment. Any advice on what ignition to use on a dual plug head setup? Think dual magnetos would be okay?
I prefer the manifold be mounted with no stress on it. It should slide into position. That way, it can be removed and reinstalled any time with relative ease.
I think it may be called a "torque adapter." I have them in several sizes and they are made by Snap-On. Sorry I don't advertise for them. Hopefully, there is a Snap-On truck that services the shops in your area.
LIGHTLY, if at all. You need ultra clean threads on the bolts and in the heads. If you use too much oil, the holes don't go all the way through, you will experience "hydra-lock."
The motor we just put together is for a friend. The Shovelhead bike we're putting together is my old road bike. It will have a sidecar once it's broke in. I want to take my dog with me. I'm in Southern California.
thank you for getting back to me ...you remine me of the old days I bought my frist Harley for 45.00 dollars and it was a 1940 61 in a VL frame with a XA springer in 1965 those were the days is your xa a Harley or is it after market and thanks for the videos BILL...….I am in northen calif use to live in simi vally for years
It is an original XA. It has been filled and chromed. But, it's an original. Even the aftermarket parts are real. Flanders, Bates, Anderson. This bike is the real deal and as far as I can tell, it was first put together in the sixties. My best friend bought it in '88. I restored it in '03. I believe you're older than me. As soon as I get around to it, I hope you enjoy my Flathead 80.
you have a UL flathead I rember getting the big flat heads and now mater if they were ul s (74) ulh s (80) they all had 3 31\32 fly wheels in them and we made 68in out of our 61s and 80 out of our 74 s thank you Bill
Come on, cut me some slack. We started with nothing and we've been learning as we go. If you watch later videos, I think you'll find we're getting better and got a great microphone. We still need to learn a bunch more.
I been looking for some Shovelhead videos forever. Please keep these coming. Very clear and helpful. You do a fantastic job of explaining. I would like to see a Shovelhead engine tear down and what to look for.
As time goes on, there will be more. Stuff has to come up and need doing. We'll get there. Thank you.
We do these things as they come up. Thank you for the kind words. There will be quite a mix of stuff, as it comes up. Hope you benefit.
Thank you for the instructional videos. I worked on Harleys with my Dad when I was younger......he passed 2 years ago and I'm neck deep in ironhead parts and bikes. Currently working on one of his last (started) projects, 78 shovelhead that was tore down 20 some years ago. Love your videos! Keep up the good work!
Thank You. I'm sure you'll do him proud.
Videos never too long. Can never have enough good information and advice from the Man himself 😎👍
I will Definitely be using your videos as instructional guidance when I get to my Shovel project. Cheers Man once again
I appreciate that!
This is wonderful...clear and concise instruction...makes me feel much better about repairs on my 77 FLH...Thank you so much..
Glad it helped
picked up 2 great tips. the oil line fitting drill-out and the 12-point bolts. like a fine wine, we are improving with age. What's better than that. Thank you Mike!
Glad to help.
Hi Pacific Mike,
Thank you for making these videos,I have been doing my own shovel heads for years..Its just really nice to see a person doing the same work and letting me know that what I have been doing somethings right..And some things wrong..
I am going to enjoy watching your different videos..
Thank you once again,my new mentor..
Thank you. I hope our videos are helpful.
Pacific Mike
Sir your videos are not only helpful,but they are entertaining as well..
Pay TV should have a channel dedicated to this sort of thing,instead of those biker build off thingies...jmo.
Now, if everyone had your opinion... Thank you.
I have a 76 shovel and these videos are exactly wat we needed to see... thank u..
Glad you like them. We do stuff as it comes up. More to come.
I'm in school and Mike is a wealth of knowledge and experience and skills. Thanks bruh.
Thank you.
Thanks for your help Mike, really appreciate all that you share!!!
My pleasure!
You have the best videos on older Harley motors. I picked up a motor stand similar to one of your other videos. Please keep them coming.
Thank you. Will do.
This guy is the bob ross of harley davidsons
Thank you.
Good to see shovelhead videos on here that are very descriptive with a mechanics own experience on techniques to get things to be put back together. As an owner of twin cams and evos I hope to one day find and restore a lowrider shovel. These videos only made my enthusiasm to own one rise, keep up the good work!
Thank you. The cool thing is, the sooner you buy it, it will only appreciate. Have fun.
Very clear video. I have installed my cylinders and heads on my 83 Shovelhead many times.
Cool. I hope that's because you've been riding it that much.
The "Bob Ross" for Harley's, very excellent videos!
Thank you.
This may be late, but hopefully helps someone....I use ratcheting box wrenches at work and they save SO much time...Worth the investment
They 're really nice, in their place. I don't rush motor work, and this sounds pretty picky, but I really don't want to scar chrome fasteners. But those are great tools, especially since the manufacturers have managed to make them so much more compact than they were years ago.
@@pacificmike9501 Totally agree! The size difference in modern pieces is much appreciated. Chrome hardware is good to be precautionary with, parkerized is nice for the simple fact it's tough, but you can never beat a good show-chrome, that's for sure!! Keep up the great videos, you're teaching a whole new generation, kudos.
Thank you.
Great videos mike really clear and can really feel the passion you have for these bikes 🍻
It's a love thing. I'm doing my best, and always strive for "better."
He is the best!!!
Thanks Mike for these great explanations just ordered a dogbone torque adapter. A really helpful tool 😉👍 I really love my shovel FLHP and want to keep it on the road
Glad to help
I like this guy. No bullshit, just the way it has to be.
Thank you. We try.
Pacific Mike thank you sir.
Great idea on the fish line. Also liked the way you tork all bolts on increments 20/40/60 - 5
I thought the fishline was pretty funny. But it works! My newest invention. I was taught to torque that way as a kid. Too old to remember exactly when that was, but there weren't any shovelheads yet.
Looking forward to your next video routing the oil lines thank you for sharing. I have a 1980 FLT Shovelhead that I'm trying to get sorted out. It has a couple of oil leak problems and possibly needs a new carburetor. I rebuilt the old carburetor but it still doesn't seem to run right all the time. I'll keep watching your videos and see if I can learn more and tweak some more thanks.
You need an 1980 FLT Service manual. It will show you proper routing of your oil lines. I'm assuming you're using the original carburetor. All of the circuitry runs through the float bowl and it's really hard to clean. Good luck and step up and buy a book.
Another interesting video Mike and I finally learned how to torque a motor up with a "dog bone" extension always wondered how you used them.
Cool. Thank you.
None of your videos are to long. Thanks
Glad you like them! Thank You.
I dig your videos and your "Welcome To Mikes Garage" starting point is extra cool 😎. Question do you put the rear cylinder on first for a reason? Thanks again for the great videos !
Sometimes
@@pacificmike9501 It's a bear of a job on a 79 Low Rider , supper tight between rocker box and frame . I learned something rear first. again thanks really dig your vids !
Had a guy do a rebuild on mine n took forever n is still leaking and giving issues... glad to finally find a vid to use..
Good. I hope it helps you.
very good work. well shown thanks for your time and effort to teach something important to me ... greetings from Mexico.
Thank you.
Mike, I am putting the heads on a 64 panhead. Head bolts I used were NOS. I mis-read a Clymers manual and as a result, I used silver anti-seize on the head bolts and tightened it down to 65ft lb. I later read that anti-seize changes (reduces) the torque poundage requirement because the threads are lubed - by 25% or so. Assuming correct I have over torqued the heads by 25%. My opinion after what reading I could to is that I should probably be OK to leave it this way. 2 risks - (a) because the head bolts are lubed they may have a tendency to loosen (b) the bolt is stretched somewhat and should I re-do this, replace them. I tightened it all down in 5lb increments, criss-cross pattern - so assuming all is evenly tightened, no risk to the head to cylinder surfaces. I'd appreciate your perspective on this. Thanks very much in advance whatever you have time for.
I'd probably take it back apart and clean it all up. If not, check and recheck your torque setting at close intervals until you don't find any changes. Too much torque can do damage, either warping or pulling threads. Those heads are hard to replace.
Happy New Year Mike. I wanted to thank you again for these educational how to videos so when the time comes I can do my own r and r on my 1980 FLH80 cylinder heads, rocker boxes, and cylinders when it becomes necessary. One thing I discovered is that this particular Flh has the o-ring heads and I know AMF did some using up of inventory parts but not sure if since this bike was built Feb. 1980 mfg. date as confirmed by the HD Archive Dept. Wondering if way back when all the problems with the unleaded gas if the 1980 rubber band heads had to be swapped out for the earlier o ring heads by HD dealer repair and or an indy like you. Any guesses you might come up with are good enough for me. The motor runs good and cold compression tests 135 ish both front and rear.
For now I am going to leave well enough alone and just ride and enjoy this shovelhead see you out on the road as you like to say.
Happy New Year! Lucky you. I'll bet someone was playing with hot camshafts and wanted to use better (earlier) cylinder heads to avoid the clearance issues of the later heads. Whatever the reason, you are better off with what you have. And, I appreciate the good news your motor is in good shape.
Mike @@pacificmike9501 , Good on you for the explanation. I try to be in tune with what the Shovel is telling me as I am have learned a lot from your educational videos, particularly how to run the original hydraulic inserts and how to adjust them.
As a mater of fact after watching your videos I just had to have one to spin a few wrenches myself. I removed the solid conversion toadstools and found some original pass the service manual test Hydraulic Inserts from the Moco and now run those. An original Tom Sifton 112 Cobra Cam .440 lift was one of the goodies I discovered poking around in the cam chest and inspecting the rollers.
That is a great cam. Tom Sifton's cams were some of the greats in the industry. There were so many guys designing cams. I love the way his ran. He ran a lot of long duration stuff. Long about 60 mph, they start huffing bigtime.
Video is not to long your a great teacher
Thank you. We try, and your opinion matters.
Mike! I can’t thank you enough for these videos. You’ve convinced me to tear down and go over my shovel head vs paying someone else to do it.
Couple questions: how did you clean / polish / paint the motor? Seems like you sent some of it out for that, who do you recommend?
I need a video series just like this for a panhead motor. I really want to buy one this year and refresh it myself
Thank you again
I did my own finishing. Go to our CZcams Homepage and click on "videos." There's 211 videos there. You should find what you need there.
Mike, should the cylinders be torqued down before installing the heads? Is the torque inch pounds or foot pounds? Thank you!
Footpounds. Read your service manual.Torque the cylinders, then install the heads. Don't forget to line up the intake manifold.
Granger has the dog bones(AKA torque adapter's) for about $25 each..
Cool.
@@pacificmike9501 I also ran into a issue with S&S heads, they state in the destruction's... 🤣 That they recommend using anti-seize on the headbolts. Well unfortunately I ended up stretching and snapping one of the 1038CP headbolts. Luckily I was able to remove it without breaking off in the head. What would you recommend I do? I went against my better judgement on this. Built a few race engine's in my life and never used anti-seize.
So Mike after the motor has ran a couple of heat cycles the cylinders will need to be retorqued ?and is it 45lbs on bottom 65lbs on top cylinders
Yes, and I recheck them after more heat cycles and at the first oil change.
Awesome! Some day my Low Rider will be tore down to this level and redone. I LOVE shovels too, NOT the shitty quality from the AMF days, but still very much the machine. I NEED Jim's garage. ;-)
Why are guys still harping on AMF? You know, Harley was going down the drain. AMF took them over, with all their problems and worn out tooling and kept them alive. They did awful things to us, like alternators and disc brakes. When I got my new AMF, I thought I'd died and gone to heaven. So I rode the hell out of it. I live in Southern California, but I've ridden my AMF to Sturgis, Canada, and places people don't even need to know about. Last bunch of figuring totaled about 400,OOO miles. I've never owned a bike that didn't need some improvements, so cut them some slack and make your improvements. By the way, the reason this shovel was torn down this far was because the frame was way damaged in a major collision. Enjoy your bike. We're so fortunate to have them. Thanx
couldn't agree more Mike...if it wasn't for AMF Harley would be a thing of the past. i dont think AMF will ever get the credit they deserve. could you imagine Harley and no softail or the twin cam let alone the evo and none of it would had happened if they were not bailed out. AMF was involved for what about 12-13 yrs???...i wonder when people will realize those will be the bikes to have, which happen to be the Shovelhead era
Pacific Mike have to agree Mike....just tore my yuppie 17 limited down for a cam,oil pump and oil pressure gauge because I wanted too. But my evo and shovel do have more sole......thank you for what u do.....
Thanks again for your tips ; heads on 👍🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻✊
Cool. Thank You.
Mike, you mention that the cylinder heads you are using are 'STD' heads, and I see 3 exhaust port studs instead of just one. Do you recommend STD heads over stock? Where can I get a set? Thanks.
I don't know that they are available at this time. I like them and have a pair. They are certainly high performance units. I'll be showing them off very soon as I install them.
Hey guy thanks for the video. I bought an 83fxsb 1340 last year that had a fresh rebuild on the top end. Compression was 120 per cylinder. Noticed there was oil leaking from around the head gaskets and decided to check the cylinder bolts. They were all pretty loose. I tightened them all while on the side of the road as good as I could get them with a 9/16 box end and got the bike home. Are these common to loosten up? Are my gaskets shot now or can I go about re torquing them and get away with it. Thanks appreciate any help and keep up the videos. 1340 the same torque specs? 65lbs?
Tough call. I would replace them and torque properly. Run the bike a little, let it cool down and retorque them. What you can get away with is fine. But being thorough avoids problems later. Thank you.
@@pacificmike9501 Hey really appreciate the reply and advice... So is this common for the cylinder to head bolts to loosen up on their own, or do you think the guy just didn't torque them properly? Should I be checking these periodically?
Can't be sure. But, he probably didn't retorque them after a few "heat cycles." This is standard procedure prior to Evo motors, which have their own procedures. Plus, I check my Shovel and earlier motors until I'm sure, they've "taken a set."
@@pacificmike9501 right in man I bet your right. He just had it rebuilt shortly before he sold it and I bet it just had the initial torque settings. I'm gonna try to get away with re torquing them and see what happens. Really appreciate the quick response and great advice. Have a great day today man ✌️
Enjoy. You can retorque it more than once also. But, if the gaskets became damaged, you'll have to replace them. Ride it carefully, like you're breaking it in. Just for a while.
Hey Mike,
I bought an '84 Shovelhead. The manifold is not aligned correctly. Do I have to change the head gasket if I want to adjust the heads?
Greetings from Germany
Peter
Definitely. It's a pain, but if the last guy didn't align the manifold, then remove the heads and start over. Sometimes, depending on how it is aligned now, you can do just one head. I'd probably do them both.
@@pacificmike9501
I have now loosened the heads, but even when I turn the heads there is always a gap of about 2mm. It's an '84 Shovel FLH. (Matching Numbers)
Mike I have a question, I hope you can help. I have bought aftermarket heads from v twin. Seem to be good heads. I have installed then on a generator shovel head. The band stile intake from s&s, is to narrow and leaks. Can you recommend a proper intake..Zimms sells a stroker intake. Sizes vary. I was told this might be what I need to do. but I don't know what one I need to get
I wonder if you "set" the heads carefully before torqueing them down. I mean, did you fit the intake manifold? Sometimes (for a host of reasons), the cylinders are not the same length (or, I should say "height"). Ive turned them down on a lathe to match. These are all "oddball" problems that come up when building stuff that's been through a lot of hands. I can only guess when I can't physically see the problem. Those heads should turn far enough. Maybe the cylinders are short. I've seen them shortened in an effort to raise compression.
@@pacificmike9501 I better re check . Already had motor jump up to about 2,500 rpm .I don't want to mess up this fresh rebuild. Heads and cylinders both new. Bought from v twin. Motor is a compleat rebuild . First time in 22 years
These videos are never too long! They are almost religious...
Thank You!
Hey Mike Thank you for being a true Teacher. Watching and Listening to your videos are very comforting. You certainly come across as a Professional in the trade.
I have a 1980 FLH. I have owned this bike for about 41 years. I"ve been through 6 different HDs in my life. I presently own the FLH and a custom FXST.
My FLH is dual plugged. New coils and I still end up with one plug fouling on the front jug. The motor has stock cases with the "S&S 93 hot set up" installed a few years back.
I'm running with the motor with solid lifters. I do not know the stroke, however; and would appreciate any info on how to determine what the stroke is. It is a big bore jug set up that was part of the S&S hot set up kit.
I also would like to know what kind of spark plug your using and the gap settings for a dual plugged head.
Thank you Brother for your time.
The reach of the plug id dependent upon the location and manufacture of the heads. Measure the length (depth) of the plug holes. the rights and lefts could differ greatly. Using late Harley Shovel heads, I used to use RN12YC in the left side and RJ12YC in the right. I set the plugs at .030 instead of the usual .040. My STD heads use RN12YC on both sides. Your stroke is (probably) 4 5/8. Big bore cylinders are probably 3 5/8. Just an educated guess.
@@pacificmike9501 The heads are 1979 or 1980 stock heads with the S&S valve kit that came with the 93" Hot setup. The plugs are short on the cone side . I've been using AC plugs. I'll invest in what you mentioned and let you know the out come. Thank you for your attention to my motor specs. Thank you for Your Time.
You bet.
I never understood why leaks on the intake manifold are called “vacuum” leaks. There is no vacuum just air coming in from outside the manifold where it shouldn’t come from and leans out the fuel mixture and screws up the idle.
They are called " vacuum leaks" because the pistons going down in the cylinders sucking air through the intake manifold creates "vacuum." This vacuum is being lessened by leaks through the maniold. In other words, due to one or more leaks in the manifold, that vacuum is being defeated and diluted. It affects more than just "idle." It affects all of the engines running and causes the cylinders to run unevenly.
Thanks for that excellant explanation Mike
after you torque down the head do you let it sit over night, then the next day crack them loose a little , and re-torque? You mentioned you will allow it to go through a couple of heat cycles..would that be the point to do that or just leave it? Thank you.
Run it, heat it up to operating temp. Let it sit overnight to cool completely. Then, retorque to the recommended torque setting. Do not loosen. After retorquing, run it again up to operating temperature. Let it cool completely again. Retorque it. Do this three or four times. Then put a couple hundred miles on it, let it cool completely and torque it again.
@@pacificmike9501 And I would assume that would apply for all types of head gaskets, not just Cometic correct? Thank you for your time.
Always read the manufacturer's recommendations. I assume you're on a Shovelhead. Motors differ. Do not assume that an Evo is like a Shovelhead.
@@pacificmike9501 Yes, i'm on a pan-shovel. thank you !
Hey mike thanks for all the help. Quick question after the heat cycles how much more do you torque the bolts up? Thanks again!
After it cools down the bolts may not be as tight as they were.
Repeat the torque sequence (same torque as before). Repeat heat cycle prod
procedure. Sorry, my computer is giving me grief. After a couple of heat cycles, the bolts will take a set and not require this procedure. Then ride it for a while and repeat the procedure to make sure. Always let it cool completely before retorquing.
Thank you mike. And thank you for all you do for our community. Even outside of motorcycles Your a true blessing in the world 🙏
Wow! Thank You. I hope I can live up to that.
I’m installing my pushrods but for some reason I can’t get the rear intake lower enough for me to put the rod in place. Any help?
You didn't give me quite enough information. Solids or hydraulics? If they're solids, with aftermarket pushrods, you have different length pushrods. With stock hydraulics and stock pushrods, the pushrods are all the same length. With solids, and aftermarket pushrods, the pushrods are two, if not three different lengths. If this is the case, the front exhaust is the longest pushrod. The intakes are the two shortest. If there is one pushrod left, that is longer than those two, it is the rear exhaust. If, after that, the rear intake won't go into place, it must be CAREFULLY pryed into place, staight up with a well padded large screwdriver. Do no pry against the fins. We have not yet showed adjusting hydraulic lifters. Again, don't know what you have.
What do you do when you put a motor in make sure you put washers and bolts in it will you ever tighten her down boys I'm telling you watch your fingers
Thank You.
Hello Mike, Once again your videos are great and I'm sure are helping many folks out there. I'm just completing a top end rebuild on my '57 Pan and the jugs are on and I just buttoned up the heads and put the valve covers on. My bike had never been apart and was still on the standard bore. I re-used the mechanical low profile stock lock nuts on the rocker arm blocks. Do you think that was a mistake? Should I have used new ones? I ask because my bike is very original and there are a couple of these style nuts on the bike and they have been on and off and have never backed off on their own. I should mention I did not use any locktite on the rocker block nuts. In your experience have you ever had an issue using the original mechanical lock nuts on the rocker blocks and had any back off?? I know some folks use nylocs and I guess that works too if you have the clearance to do so.
I've never had a problem with them backing off. I've reused original nuts. What I normally do is use low profile nylock nuts. I don't loctite them. Local hardware store stocks them or order a bag of them online. I'm sure McMaster Karr carries them. A 57 Pan and you're the first guy to open it. That's terrific.
@@pacificmike9501 Hi Mike, thanks for your reply and knowledge. If you have time I have a couple quick questions more pertaining to my '57 pan valve train. First, since it is an original '57 it came with the pads on the tops of the exhaust valve stems; I'm using stock valve replacements and wondered if I should use the pads on top of the valve stems, as was done when originally built? I think it gives more of area for the rocker to pivot on so seems like the right thing to do, but I'm not sure if the replacement valves overall length is slightly longer than the OEM valve and if this slight increase in length by using the pad would throw off the geometry at all? Second question is...do you think the intake oilers are effective and need to be re-installed? Thank for your help!
Yes, the intake oilers are important. As for these pads and your valve lengths, I'm not sure what you've got. Perhaps you ought to have someone in your area with knowledge have a look at it.
Thanks for your thoughts. The local shop that is near me has been in business 40yrs and say they are not familiar with them. Funny because they are clearly shown in manuals. I imagine you have done the valves in your pan; were they not present when you took possession of the bike? If they were then I'm assuming you changed the valves at some point so what did you do? Thanks Mike.
Excellent videos Mike. I noticed you leave your shovel heads factory finished, with the “Blonde” crank case and heads, and black cylinders. What is your opinion of having the entire engine black? I’m rebuilding mine and considering blacking it out and polishing the edges of the cooling fins.
I assume you're doing an Evo motor. Since the evo has aluminum cylinders, you can polish the edges of the fins. With cast iron, if you polish them, they'll rust. All black motors? That's become a modern tradition. I like the old traditions and the beautiful details of the old motors.
Hey mike. I have learned tons from you but the one thing I dont know how to do is adjust my valves or rocker arms or what have you. Can you help me? The bike is a 1977 fly with of course a 74 inch shovelhead.
Are they solid lifters, or original type hydraulic lifters?
Original
thread through bolt hole or two,you can cut it out or leave it
Thank You.
@@pacificmike9501 your my new addiction,love your giving heart.you have such a calm and peaceful tranquility about you,my wife asked me,why you start watching all this,i said its cheaper than your rain machine.
THANK YOU
Hey Pacific Mike, we just built a shovelhead bike and after about 700 trouble free miles, it blew the dipstick out of the oil tank when starting. Any ideas?
Usually, it is because there is too much oil in the tank and the breather hose into the tank has no space for the air to go.
Hi Mike,
I noticed that you mentioned that on the "old " type Head gaskets,you have used some grease or sealant to hold them on...I have always been under the belief that you should not use anything on the head gaskets...So are you saying that it is ok to use a gasket sealant on a head gasket?
The reason I ask this is because I have a reoccurring (say around every 2/12-3 years)rear head gasket blowing on my 1981 FLHS,and always around the oil passage..Should I/can I apply a little gasket sealer around this area?The head mating surface is flat,and so is the cylinder surface
Currently I am going to use a blue teflon type of head gasket..Any feed back would be appreciated
I used to use a sealant with copper in it. I suspect, however, that you have a "low spot" in either the cylinder or the head surface. If this is not so, perhaps you're not retorquing the head. I usually torque the head according to the factory torque specs. Then run the motor until it comes up to full temp. Shut it down, let it cool completely. Then, retorque the head and cylinder fasteners. You can do this several times. Then run it for a couple hundred miles and do it one more time. By this time, they have taken a "set." Use a torque wrench to be exact.
Pacific Mike
There are no flat spots,I have measured and had a machine shop check my work,just for good measure.(and because I always doubt my own work).
However I definitely do not re tension the heads more than once and that is usually after 200 miles or so..So that will definitely be a changed practice.Thank you..
Another thing is that I have just ordered the small torque adapter I saw you using,I feel these two new things may just be the thing I needed.
Hopefully in the future we might get to see you change bearings and races in the steering Head,and the correct way to check them for adjustment.I have done this once just not confident about it..
One more thing....If I change to an enclosed belt drive on my 1981 FLHS, can I use the old clutch hub,pressure plates and clutch plates in a dry primary,or will I have to get different ones..
Thank you and regards..
I never know who stays up with what, so, if I repeat myself, please tolerate me. I forgot to mention checking the inserts casted into your cylinder heads. After installing and retorquing over the years, the inserts will pull a thread or two down, or the head will have been surfaced. It's not difficult for a machinist to mill each insert to give it a "counterbore." Next question: Buy a belt drive that utilizes your components and is intended for what you're going to do, ie. "intended for electric start and stock enclosed primary housing," or "open primary, kickstart only."
so ... Mike ... does this "loose" Head Trick apply to EVO's too ??
when installing the Intake Manifold ?
COOP
..............................................
No, it does not. On an Evo, the head goes on with no rotating adjustment.
Hi Mike, really like your channel, funny headgaskets, never seen those before. Do you use some anti seize on the bolts?
Nope. Just, super clean threads, bolts and holes.
Great video Mike. You mentioned be careful on cam selection on 81 because they had clearance issues. I have an 83 FXR what would be a good streetable cam to use with stock heads?
Thank you. The catalogues are full of cams. Read what they're intended for. Then, make you're selection and see what you like. It has to do with you and your purpose. The cams will go from "good low end and midrange to "all out racing." It will say whether or not "modifications" are required. It will say if it's for a "big stroker" or "stock displacement" and "solid or hydraulic lifters." Cams are a real "personal" thing.
Ok thanks
Three exhaust pipe studs, must make for a nice tight fit. Is this the standard setup with the STD heads? Great videos!
Yes, they were quite an improvement by STD. By the way, they are awesome heads and flow like crazy. Only problem is, you gotta make your own pipes. Glad you're enjoying our videos. Thank you.
Hey mike, how are those head gaskets working for you. Do you prefer them over the old ones.
Yes, they're sealing well.
Pacific Mike thank you sir
Mike,Great videos I tell ya, Did you ever work on Cars? Heavy vehicles or Machinery,Imports,Etc? I haven't watched all your videos so I don't know,But so far This is pretty good.....
Thank you. I've built cars and bikes all my life. Anything with an engine will do.
Hey Mike, love your Vids!
Where can I buy a torque adapter you use on the cylinders?
Thank
Jonas in Sweden
Actually, any good tool supply company carries them. The one you're referring to is a Snap-On brand.
Thanks Mike! Appreciate it!
I cut a wrench in half and welded a. Socket upside down on the wrench
I have a blown head and rocker box gaskets. Can they be replaced with motor in the frame. Keep those great videos coming. Thank you.
Don't know your motorcycle, but, most likely. Thank you.
1979 shovelhead. Electra-glide FLH-80
Hello Mike, great video. I have an 81 fx that I am doing a frame up restoration, I am gonna do at least a top end on the motor so I know what condition it is in and see what cam is in it. I was told it is an Andrews but you never know if you don't check it out. The bike is 38 years old and who knows how many hands have been in it, what type of head gasket are you using?
They are Cometic MLS (multi layer steel). Be very careful what cam you use. An '81 has some clearance issues.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks for your very timely reply. Really good to know you are out there.
Also, the motor I have has the oil lines from the bottom of the cylinders to the lifter blocks, do I need to run those or can I plug them off?
Most people plug them off. Never had a set, but I have plugged them off for people.
Yes, I've been told that I'm "out there." But, I really love this stuff. Glad to be of service to you.
You don’t need any thread locker on anything?
I use thread locker when I think it,s needed. I don't like to use it in aluminum very often. Threads are only so strong and I'll be back there again. When those aluminum threads go, then I have to helicoil. I like lockwashers and safety wire. I like locktabs, and sometimes threadlocker is great.
Mike, great as always! Are you talking 65 ft pounds, not inch lbs.? Thanks!
That is correct. Thank You.
Lovin the videos Mike! I am workin on a 74 shovel at the moment. Any advice on what ignition to use on a dual plug head setup? Think dual magnetos would be okay?
Wow. Whatever you like should be fun. That's some wild stuff.
why not placing the manifold on and then tighten the bolts?
I prefer the manifold be mounted with no stress on it. It should slide into position. That way, it can be removed and reinstalled any time with relative ease.
You call the little wrench a dog bone. What is it and where do I get one?
I think it may be called a "torque adapter." I have them in several sizes and they are made by Snap-On. Sorry I don't advertise for them. Hopefully, there is a Snap-On truck that services the shops in your area.
thanks mike
Glad to be of help.
Did you oil the head bolts?
LIGHTLY, if at all. You need ultra clean threads on the bolts and in the heads. If you use too much oil, the holes don't go all the way through, you will experience "hydra-lock."
did I here you say you are going to put a side car on her? I have a 1993 Harley FXR with a Harley hac on her , were are you at ? thank you Bill
The motor we just put together is for a friend. The Shovelhead bike we're putting together is my old road bike. It will have a sidecar once it's broke in. I want to take my dog with me. I'm in Southern California.
thank you for getting back to me ...you remine me of the old days I bought my frist Harley for 45.00 dollars and it was a 1940 61 in a VL frame with a XA springer in 1965 those were the days is your xa a Harley or is it after market and thanks for the videos BILL...….I am in northen calif use to live in simi vally for years
It is an original XA. It has been filled and chromed. But, it's an original. Even the aftermarket parts are real. Flanders, Bates, Anderson. This bike is the real deal and as far as I can tell, it was first put together in the sixties. My best friend bought it in '88. I restored it in '03. I believe you're older than me. As soon as I get around to it, I hope you enjoy my Flathead 80.
you have a UL flathead I rember getting the big flat heads and now mater if they were ul s (74) ulh s (80) they all had 3 31\32 fly wheels in them and we made 68in out of our 61s and 80 out of our 74 s thank you Bill
Have you ever used heads from v twin ?
I'm sorry, I have not. Fred, our great camera man, used an entire Panhead motor from them, but, it runs great and hasn't been opened for any reason.
Oil lines next ; 🙏🏻✊👍🏻
There's a video. Thank You.
Pacific Mike yes I seen that ; your video. There a retired hd mechanic down the street here . He does the oil lines that way too. 👍🏻🙏🏻✊
Pacific Mike got it ; yes sir ; mine were already done . 👍🏻
The videos would be a lot shorter if you had a bluetooth mike Mike.
Thank You.
Somebody send him a Bluetooth microphone please! I dont have one or I would Hillbilly from SC
Come on, cut me some slack. We started with nothing and we've been learning as we go. If you watch later videos, I think you'll find we're getting better and got a great microphone. We still need to learn a bunch more.