Applying Water-Based Aniline Dye | The Crazy Chinese Hollowbody Guitar Kit
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- čas přidán 7. 08. 2024
- In this video we are continuing with our water-borne finish on this really interesting guitar kit.
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Thanks Brad! I will give it a shot.
Good job man👍,that binding scraping sounds like nail on a chalkboard lol!
I can't wait to see the final product on these Johnny A kits Brad. PLEASE show us the final build!
Oh, I will. I’m not sure it will be anything short of a disaster, but I will haha.
Very very thorough and great explanation.
Nice Channel
Thanks. I’m glad you like it.
YESSSSS a nice long vid!
Very cool, thx. man!
Hey Brad give artist oil based paints a try on one of your guitar projects. Thin it with Japan Dryer and to get a nice even coat, and it'll speed the drying process of the oil paint. Wait 3 days to make sure the body is 100% dry. A bit of a pain to clean oil paints (though those Lysol wipes work pretty well on skin in case you get some on you. I got great results on the LP kit I used it on. Took some patience to get the right look, but it is stunning, and actually looks like a night sky Bob Ross would have painted. Yes it will even show your grains when thinned.
One thing I learned is do a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and a wipe on poly to really lock in the colors. :-)
As always, great video, Brad. I'll be looking forward to seeing what you wind up doing about the neck. I don't know if you remember my mentioning to you during Dan's (Guns & Gtrs) live video, the carved leather Strat pickguard I've been working on? I finished it today and I'm happy enough with it. Hopefully I'll have it on the guitar tonight and will let you know, if you're still interested in seeing it.
I’m definitely interested.
Great video Brad. I've been interested in dyeing techniques for woods. I keep going back and forth on what finish I want to put on the kit I'm working on; do I want to keep it natural or do I want to dye it and this gave me a lot of good information. I'm not moving forward on it until I see this guitar in it's finished form. I'm also looking forward to seeing what's going on with the neck and if you're going to replace it and with what, etc. Good stuff as always!
I've used Rit Dye (all purpose) which is also water base on an LP kit I bought from StewMac (Dan at Guns and Guitars demonstrated this technique for his purple burst LP kit). Dyes will really absorb into the wood grain and is impossible to truly remove it even with stripping agents. It is definitely once you commit you are committed, and there's no going back. Also keep in mind that what you see in a video won't give you the real world result.
Keep in mind that water based dyes become very dull looking when they dry. Don't let that scare you, because once you add your clear coat, the color will brighten up.
I'd recommend finding some samples of wood to test out the dyes you purchase. This way if you don't like the result you are have not ruined your project. :-)
@@kjemradio yes I am a subscriber of Dan's videos as well as supporting him on Patreon. Because of him I want to build a purple LP with the satin finish just like his. But it's always interesting to see different techniques and Brad has quality content always.
I absolutely love black transparent dye on a guitar as you know!!! Hopefully it comes out as good as my telecaster did! Don't press to hard tho mate you will crack the wood hahahah..... I actually like the funky Shap of the body
Haha thanks Stu.
Brad
not sure I think what you're calling a straight razor is what I believe we call a safety razor, not totally sure but I'm thinking....
best David
I’ve been getting great results with Keda dyes Brad, I can’t get the ones you use here in the UK but can import Keda. I also had an issue with glue around bindings, but solved by doing a light burst with auto paint after staining. Nice and easy for an ‘amateur ‘ like myself
That’s a good way to deal with it. Keda dyes are also quite good.
The guy on the keda wood dye channel sold me on them
Love your channel Brad, and thanks to you I'm going to build my grandson a bass from a kit. This dye job looks a bit splotchy to me and I wonder if it would be possible to even out the stain on the back? Maybe using just plain water? Thanks again
Im not Brad but I have used water based dyes and yes you can keep working it and get the definition you want.What I found was that like using black here, let each coat dry and just add another until you get what you are looking for.
Yes, you can continue to work this dye until you get the look you are aiming for.
Awesome 👍, curious what artist,band was playing in your background? Sounds great!
I’m not sure haha. That music comes from epidemic sound, and I don’t track what artists the songs are from.
Brad, are you going to show us how you finished this kit?? I'd like to see the clear finished body and how you glued the neck on, and bridge placement.
Yes, I’ll be showing it. I honestly haven’t finished it yet.
Brad, thanks for responding. Can't wait.
Brad ... I tried to find an answer to this looking through some of your older videos and I am sure someone has probably answered it somewhere but I can't find it. As you may remember, I am doing one of your other projects in the Solo Spalted Maple. I'm at a crossroads. Two coats of tung oil on the guitar body and neck and all is looking good so far outside of some bad a couple of bad glue spots on the veneer. I could feel them before I started but I didn't want to sand too deep as to possibly go through the veneer. My question has to do with adding a water-based dye (Keda Wood Dye Powder) to the spalted maple top of the guitar after two coats of tung oil or can you mix that with something like mineral spirits, strain it and mix that with the tung oil? I want to go for a slightly different hue to the top of the guitar. I was thinking that if I gave the tung oil 24 to 48hrs to lock in I could use a little of this waterbased dye on top of the tung oil and either go straight with the water-based dye on top of it or try to mix with the tung oil and add maybe two more coats to the top of the guitar before I used the clear poly top. Just a thought but being the first project I not sure how some of these things will react ... especially with the two glue spots (although minor areas). Both spots are on the edge of the veneer. If you have any suggestions or can point me to another video that would be great! Thanks.
You can let the tung oil set for 48 hours, sand lightly with 0000 steel wool, and then mix some dye in an oil based finish/vanish and apply that if you want a tint.
you are amazing hahaha. great talent you have.
Thank you Paul. That’s very kind of you.
Can u use this dye to wipe on and sand off to darken just the wood grain so it stands out more?
Yes. Have a look at my video on dyeing quilted maple.
Pretty recent subscriber but just by chance where do you work? Or is this a side hustle kinda fun project thing?
This is a side gig for me at this point (used to be more back when I was in university).
I think you can but just in case, can you use the regular pre cat lacquer clear coat over top of this water based product?
Yes, no problems there as long as its properly dry.
Looking at using dyes...to me the dye looks a bit 'blotchy' on the veneer. Do you find this to be the case or is it just not showing properly on the video?
I made it a bit streaky. That’s my fault.
Brad, I just got a guitar from Precision Guitar. I wanted do a blue burst with black on the outside and a deep blue in the middle. I’m struggling whether I should use stain for the burst or spray cans with lacquer. I used the Behlen kit and had great success doing it that way. The only concern is I don’t want to screw it up. For someone new to this, which way do you think I should go. Can I get blue lacquer in a can if I go that route? And if I Stain, what stain would you recommend. Thanks for the help you’ve given me in the past. Ken
I can definitely make some stain recommendations, but it think you’re better off going to the master of dues on this one. Have you seen BigDGuitars’ channel? He does tons of colored dye bursts. I think he’s using leather dyes these days. His tutorials on it will be helpful.
Thanks Brad. I have seen BigDGuitar videos. Probably all of them. I’ll reach out to him as well. Let me know what you would recommend for dyes. As always, thanks for your help and replies.
Hey Brad.. as far as the glue goes, would 2500 grit fix it enough to re add dye?
Usually not quite.
out of intrest: wouldnt it help stain to go on most smoothly, when you wet the wood lightly?
It could be used to assist in spreading it around.
I'd be really interested to see what you would do with the Pango Parker Fly style diy guitar. This guitar is terrible, but it's starting to turn into a pretty cool guitar, mostly because of your skill level.
Thanks Stephen. Hopefully I can turn this into something reasonably worthwhile haha.
I personally had a major problem with tomtop, it resolved itself out, but I will never deal with them again. I went to bargainmusician and was very pleased.
Glad to hear your experience with bargain musician was good. I’ve heard good things about them.
I wanted to use fretwire because of Dan Thompson's and your videos, but they didn't have a headless guitar so had to go to bargainmusician, hopefully your vaca is going awesome
I’m going to have to see if solo will send me one of their headless models one of these days.
hopefully you like the kit, I know I like mine and I modified the body shape and the hand grip more , still working on the dye job though
On my screen it looks like the dye is uneven stained. Would't it be better to take a lighter solution with multiple passes? Rob
The dye will loo even when I clear coat it. Some spots were wetter than others in the video.
You can use a light solution and build it up if you want.
If you're doing a water-based stain finish, can you follow it up with a wax wood grain enhancement technique like Dan did on the Guns & Guitars channel?
Yes.
@@BradAngove Thanks for the reply man, you're a true craftsman / artisan. Keep up the great work!
One can always use dye in your first 2-3 coats of clear to cover those trouble areas and homogenize blotchy stain.
If you use dye in clear coat will it give the same effect as if you stained and clearcoat after that?
@@mrmisterman999 a similar effect yes, depending upon how much dye/pigment and what kind dye/pigment is used in the clear. It will give a translucent or opaque finish in that color. That's how most companies (Gibson, Fender, etc..) paint their finishes. A clear with dye (for translucent) or shader (for opaque) pigment added is sprayed on top of the sealer then over-coated with clear (in most cases). I highly recommend testing on scrap first to get your mixes the way you want them.
@@PicksPaints interesting because I just bought a quilt veneer and was going to stain it but maybe I should just use dyed clearcoat
@@mrmisterman999 For some real fun, you can do both if the veneer is thick enough to allow for some light sanding. Lay down a dark base coat black, purple, dark blue, dark brown, whatever just as a base color. Wait for it to completely dry. Sand that back with 300-400 grit until the dye is pulled out of the closed grain. Clean your piece off with naptha. You can then come back with another light and contrasting color of dye. Once that's dry #0000 Steel wool that back a little just to lighten it up a touch. Then lay down your 3-4 coats of sealer. Flat sand the sealer. Lay first 2 coats of clear, then add a 3rd color by adding dye in your next couple of coats of clear.
It can be done by hand, but it requires different types of dyes. Water-born and solvent-born dyes. Base color with water, main color with solvent, and 3rd color with water. Same sanding steps between the base dye and 2nd and 3rd dyes. Just don't put your sealer down between the 2nd and 3rd colors. Either way it's a lot of work, but you can get those cool PRS type finishes (Northern Lights, etc) by doing either of these techniques.
Again, I stress practice on scrap many times beforehand! And best to practice on the same off-cuts as your work piece, if you can. That way you know how each dye will react to that specific piece. After you do these enough, you can kinda get a feel for it and it's way more predictable.
*Note1 - It CAN be done with all similar types of dye. HOWEVER, using all the same types of dyes tends to cause unwanted bleeding of the previous colors.
*Note 2 - In my experience- Water-based dyes tend to be lighter in color and require more coats. Solvent based dyes tend to go be bolder and brighter in color and require less coats. I use Angelus Leather Dyes as a solvent based dye, and Trans-Tint for water based dyes. They don't seem to interfere as much with each other when doing a 3 color dye job like I discussed earlier.
@@PicksPaints cool thanks alot for the info. I'll make a video when it's done 👍
Hey Brad, could I ask some tips from you? I own a Fender Acoustic SA-150 that recently had some damage to the top, so I want to stain and refinish just the top. I removed the bridge and pick guard now, and I think I am ready to start delicate sanding of the top with 800 grit. I would like to stain it with this Behlen jet black too, but I'm not sure what to put over the stain to finish the top with. I've looked around at what finish is on the rest of the guitar, but I haven't honestly found a solid answer. Also I know acoustics are more delicate to sand, so I'm a bit nervous about that, too. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, as its my first guitar and has some sentimental value even though its cheap...I hope I don't ruin it. It's my first guitar fixing job ever. Thanks!
Generally acoustic guitars are finished in either lacquer, oil, or shellac. There are some other alternatives including UV cured finishes etc., but those are kind of the classic choices. Do you have a preferred application kethodv
*method?
@@BradAngove Thanks for replying man. I think after watching your videos I will go with the nitrocellulose lacquer in a spray can over the top of a behlen jet black stain. I don't have a compressor for a gun, and I don't need it to be perfect anyway, it's just the top of a cheap guitar.
That’s a good choice.
Tell me how to fix that cheap muslady or Tom top???
Is yours broken too?
Scraping binding gets easier the more you do it but it still scares the shit out of me when doing it on an expensive instrument
Yeah I agree. Even with the binding scraper that StewMac sells (which I bought) you can definitely damage the finish while scraping the binding. Honestly this is why I began to color my bindings.
kjemradio I’ve never used their tool but this is a great video and I’d really recommend building your own tool. Whilst it’s scary I haven’t had to refinish any guitars I’ve scraped in the last 5 years. This way really is much simpler than using a standard blade (which still works well)
czcams.com/video/TNbsZsSabPs/video.html
Nice vid!! If I can make a suggestion, please, please, don't scrape the binding with the razor blade towards your body or your hands. One slip can be very dangerous. Always scrape away from you.
As long as one is careful and goes VERY VERY slow, it'll be fine. It is not at all easy to scrape binding away from the your body. You can always get a binding scraper instead of using a razor blade.
I find that I have much more control pulling toward myself. Luckily, this technique places the blade perpendicular to the binding as opposed to an angled carving type of hold, so it’s really not that dangerous. If you slip, you hit yourself with the flat side of the blade.
sorry Brad but this dye isn't on the Amazon list of products?
It has been discontinued I think and moved to the brand Mohawk. Should be available through Mohawk’s website, but I thought I had it on amazon.
Yeah, unfortunately, I've heard that about the necks on a lot of those Chinese kits.
Why not use methanol, since it doesn't raise grain?
Methanol does raise the grain.
@@BradAngove Is that your experience? Everything I've ever read; every demo I've watched; and in my personal experience, it does not - especially compared to water.
Yes, that’s my experience. It raises it a bit less than water, but evaporates quicker and reduces any risk of swelling etc.
Hey Brad, love the videos. Question about using water-based dyes on kits like this with thin veneer, and maybe you cover this in over videos, but I haven't seen it - what about using a grain filler first to help make for a smoother, glassier finish? recommendations for best grain fillers to use when dying? Thanks for making great vids!
You can use filler first, but you will likely want to dye the filler as well to add an accent color with it. Once the filler has dried fully, it won't take dye properly.
why not a brush or a roller?
I used a terry cloth sponge for the water based dye I worked with (in my case Rit Dye all purpose) and I found that it becomes too blotchy and way messier. You also waste a lot of product using roller due to absorption if using a roller.
Remember this isn't a household paint where you have a thicker medium to evenly spread the product on a surface. A brush will not spread as evenly and will leave streaks as paper towel or shop towel, but can get into a tighter area than a roller.
I can say from experience what ultimately worked for my dyed guitar was using an old white cotton t-shirt. Again after testing those sponges, a paper towel, and finally the shirt.
A brush or roller may add to much dye at one time.. just my thought.
Yeah, the idea here is to use a little bit of product, rub it in, and remove/move around the excess. It’s too thin to use a brush or roller properly. That would leave dark splotches due to its inability to pull extra stain around.
wouldn't it be easier to just sand the binding???
I highly doubt it. It is quite difficult to be that directed with sanding, and also scraping tends to work well on plastic.
@@BradAngove ok, I will be making my first guitar in the next week or so and wondered :) thanks
If your not gonna make it playable atleast make it a wall hanger or should I send mine back????
You could make it a wall hanger. I already have about 8 guitars hanging on my wall, so this isn’t going up on mine haha.
You could make it a wall hanger. I already have about 8 guitars hanging on my wall, so this isn’t going up on mine haha.
Have a channel for your amusement - geeveetee - building Chinese guitar kits
Received my 2nd kit only days ago: 1st one just a test. Must admit: your advice is really superb and really inspiring! Keep up the good work! 👍🏻😎
Thanks you. I’m glad you’re finding it useful.
I would have put the product in a spray bottle to get the body wet all at once then wipe it in one direction. You can buy mini spray bottles . Just saying.
If I were in a rush or working in high volume and wanted to do that I likely would have put it in an hvlp gun. It gets it on there nice and even and there’s no need to wipe it afterward.
@@BradAngove The thing I liked about your channel was that you were showing people who do not have professional equipment. You were showing people who I feel is the majority of your followers. The idea is not about high volume but the individual doing 1 guitar. Just saying. You can tell a sprayed on finish compared to a rubbed on finish. So getting it wet by spraying it on then wiping it with the grain would be my way. You did the right thing by not using all that equipment that most people do not have. I'm just saying.
Fair enough. Thanks Leonard.
@@BradAngove You'r welcome Brad
Do you have your scarred guitar yet? That body looked pretty sick...
I don’t, but the guys over there let me know they were sending one. I guess Sean must have thrown it higher in the air than anticipated...
You might suggest people wear nitrile gloves. This stuff WILL stain your skin. I had a lemon yellow finger tip for a couple days. LOL!
Haha yeah. The alcohol based stuff is even worse.