I rarely go " 'Net nanny" on CZcams ('cause there's plenty of them already) - but put some finish in another vessel and apply it from there. I was cringing every time you put that rag to the top of that pint of dye. ONE DROP of red will make a whole bottle of yellow "go orange". I know you were using some caution, but still, best practices and all...... Good info regardless. The idea of "solvent washing" really shines if you're doing a "fade" between colors (as opposed to layers over the entire surface) Maybe you could do a "red to orange" sunset kinda thing on another project. I'm guessing this looks way better in person - something about reds that never comes across well in images / films. Looks like you had real nice results on the front. This is also a great place to employ some of that shellac - doping your dye mix will give it a bit of "fixing" ability - depends on the wood, but it can add a little more drama to sand back as more of hte color gets locked in. However - to much "working" on subsequent coats can melt it off just the same, so it can take some finesse. If I'm doing a multi-color dye with a sand-back I will sometimes spray the top color with an airbrush so I explicitly don't have to "work" the finish with a rag. The only thing I don't like about "fast" solvent dyes is that on some woods there's just no way to keep it from looking splotchy. This is especially true with kit guitars if they're basswood or poplar. Or, if there is a way to keep them from splotching (like you can with a pre-stain and oil-based finishes) I sure haven't found it.....
+Don Vanco adding shellac with an alcohol based dye is going make a mess when you apply the next color of alcohol based dye. Remember shellac is dissolved in alcohol. Trust me on this, I've made this mistake before and was barely able to hide/cover it up. The second round of dye immediately dissolved the shellac and immediately turned into a mess. If you want to make the first layer more colorfast, you need a sealer that isn't going to be reconstituted by alcohol, like a water based sealer. As far as dying basswood or poplar goes you have 2 options. Option A: Lay the dye to it full strength and in multiple coats in hopes that eventually you'll get something of even coloring. Option B: seal the wood with a sealer the isn't going to react to the dye base, and go to town. The colors will be muted, but at least they'll be much more homogeneous.
DaveR's Guitars - to be clear - I'm NOT taking about dyed shellac. Most commercial alcohol dyes (like Artisan and Chestnut for instance) are LIGHTLY doped with shellac - like less than 5% of 1# cut. As I clearly indicated in my comment - you can melt this with subsequent coats, but at the same time the effect of using a "fixative doped" dye is different than that of just dye in solvent. If you soak a rag with a secondary color and just muscle it into the finish it's just going to melt - but that's not how to do it. The effect is stunning when done correctly. Yellow over sanded magenta - on heavily bleached black walnut: i.imgur.com/f3HaAwH.jpg Yellow over green, heavily figured oak: i.imgur.com/5rCzKWm.jpg Yellow over orange, same oak: i.imgur.com/WsvOXX2.jpg
+Don Vanco - Those are very cool indeed. And no, I wasn't referring to dyed shellac either. Please correct me if I'm wrong, the success of this technique depends on the porosity of the wood itself. I can see that technique working on an open grained wood like walnut, ash, oak, however, on a closed grain wood like maple or alder it would be less effective? I think that's where we were differing in our experience. And FWIW, it wasn't "muscled", it was on a maple neck, I had sprayed a THIN coat of shellac over my dyed neck. Something happened and I had to sand an area down just a bit and needed to retouch the dye. I did, and immediately, upon the dye touching the shellac, the shellac melted and began blending and bleeding. Completely unintended consequences, however it was experience that was my teacher on this. Thank you for sharing your technique, I would be very open to learn this technique, would you be willing to elaborate more?
DaveR's Guitars The technique definitely requires a "porous" wood for it to work as you see in my tests. And yeah, I'm not surprised that you didn't have good results on (hard) maple for that reason. For this to work the base color has to have some nooks-n-crannies to hide in. Figured maple tho - no problem. The walnut sample was all done with "wiping" on color - but the top color in virtually a single pass. The oak was done using very tight weave (all cotton) linen fabric (scrap bin at your local fabric store) that I had in a single layer on one of the large spindle cores off my spindle sander. In effect it was like and "ink roller" (that didn't roll... lol) and allowed me to wipe heavy color across the surface only and not "pull" any of the color in the pores from the sand-back. And yeah - in all cases there is definitely some "color lift" on the base layer. When dealing with bright colors like yellow it is imperative to have fresh, clean applicators for almost every pass or they start to bleed / smear. All those colors I used are Artisan dyes, BTW. (www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/148/6187/Artisan-Premium-Coloring-Dye) - I still mix my own with pigments from WD Lockwood (their metal complex dyes are AWESOME in lacquer if you're a fan of Gibson and Fender "classic" bursts) but the Artisan stuff is so bright, so cheap, so predictable and so repeatable that I have almost stopped mixing my own other than "classic bursts" On figured maple I will "coarse sand" for the base color (like 180 tops), this really opens up the "lenses" on the figure so they take in a lot of color. I will sometimes do a couple coats of color to insure it's saturated but the shellac doping probably keep it from doing much. I will then go VERY high on the sand back - start with 220 and take it up to 800 or better. This is counter-intuitive to what people do on the world of furniture finishing because it has a polishing effect on the wood that can actually keep (thicker / more pigmented) finishes from penetrating, but for it results in a surface I can color nicely with a light wash and get the effect I want. Of course every piece of wood is different - as you likely know, what worked today probably won't work the same tomorrow unless it's from the same stock, so you really have to test every piece...... I've posted this image before on one of Brad's videos - but this is a trans-black from a SINGLE pass of stain on maple that was "polished" in this fashion... i.imgur.com/IyKzjRD.jpg
Gotta love the sandback technique! Another fun way to do that and keep the dyes from mixing too much is throw a light coat of water based sealer over the sanded back base color. It will help keep the second color from pulling up too much of the base color, but it also mutes the top color some. Yet another way to get different effects using different color dyes. By the way, that top turned out really nice.
You put dye on top of sealer? It’s interesting to hear that that’s one of your techniques. I only do that when I’m looking for a very washed out effect.
@@BradAngove you can. Like I said it gives a muted color on your top dye. But does help keep from pulling up the bottom dye and keeps blending down. You only use a single light coat of sealer though.
That makes sense. I do the sealer in the middle as an accenting technique for some really open grain, but that’s the opposite really. You dye the whole thing, then come back after your sealer and glaze the open grain.
Hi Brad. I did something similar with my Explorer kit Guitar, I used Crimson Guitars water based dyes, an orange and a yellow I was looking to get it similar looking to the Korina wood of the Epiphone Explorer,. but after a year I ended up sanding it all back and painting it Toyota White. It’ll be interesting to see it all finished Brad. 👍🏻
I recently did a Les Paul with some water based non toxic dye that worked pretty good, I ended up with a weird purplish red type of thing... it looks pretty cool. I prefer a stained guitar over a painted one unless the paint is transparent. Yes Brad, the gloves are necessary lol - without even thinking when I first dyed my guitar I don't know what I was thinking I just grabbed some paper towel and went at it.. yup for a few days I had read and purple dyed finger tips lol..
I'd like to be able to stain a maple guitar neck and fretboard, preferably different colors as well, oh yeah and also have the side markers look good when I am done :)
Brad, Nice nuances would have like to see a last spin flip to reveal final back side color. In photo of front of CZcams we see final gloss finish looks rather like a high gloss marine spar varnish pretty nice look looking forward to final finish vlog. Keep on doing the stuff. thanks, David
Brad Angove Brad you're absolutely welcome you keep on turning out beautiful stuff and teaching us tricks in repeatable techniques that are way cool one of the finest craftsmen I've seen on CZcams, that's great stuff. I'm pretty decent at the trades and finishing things. but you do both attorney work & are therefore great with words-manship and therein lies the ability to explain it to others, in video / visual; and for some the ability to learn is both in hearing and seeing it done & being taught.... so you stand in both sides of teaching like the great colussus one of the seven wonders of the world, on shore of the harbor show how to do; on other shore or side of harbor telling how to do it done abd not barf up fine results. So it's both show & tell, Well done amigo. All the best, David
If one were to tape off parts of the body and lay the stain down along that tape line (or any other adhesive blocking-type material) would that dye come out straight/bold along that tape line or would it bleed, making the lines sloppy? Thanks.
You can generally expect that it would bleed a bit. To alleviate this, tape the opposite and then seal the area that you don’t want to stain. Then tape over the sealed area to be safe.
I have never done guitar building but I’ve been interested in getting into it because it seems like the type of hobby you could do for a long and get pride from your work. The only thing holding me back is I have no experience in the electrical side of things along with soldering and I don’t have all that much experience with painting and staining. As far as the painting and staining/finishing side of things, do you have any videos for fresh beginners?? Or any advice on where to start as far as videos or information goes?? This seems like a very rewarding hobby for a guitarist to get into and I’m hoping to one day.
Brad Angove I guess I’m open to anything. I feel like by hand would be interesting but I’m sure knowing how to do both would have its perks for different situations. At this point though probably whichever one would be easier for a beginner to grasp how to do.
Brad Angove no I haven’t looked at those yet. If you think that would be a good place to start I’ll make sure to check them out!! Basically I was just looking for a good accessible starting point. Thank you for the help!! I’ve only seen a couple of your videos so far but they are really great!! Keep up the good work
Those two series, though older and not as well filmed, would be a good place to learn the basics. My 5 part series on how to paint your guitar with behlen’s guitar finishing kit also shows the basics and goes start to finish on a paintjob.
Aye when you said you can use the solvent to make detailed patterns on the back, do you mean by just having really good control with the rag/brush kinda like painting, or can you tape off patterns & then apply the solvent? Or would the tape potentially tear/lighten up the dye when removing it? Also does the same answer apply to water based dyes too homie? Sorry if it’s a dumb question I’m new to dyes & I’m trying them for the first time lol *Also can you use an epoxy finish over a charcoal/flame topped dyed guitar?
I meant by hand with the solvent. If you’re going to tape, it would make more sense to seal first, then tape, then use a toner lacquer rather than a dye. Yes you can epoxy over that.
I really like the finish product of the dyes. Question, do you have a preference between using air tools versus electric? I know air tools can get away from you and remove more then you want.
Could these same techniques be used on an ash body that is grain filled with black tinted grain filler before applying the dye? Any problems with this approach?
Is there a difference between water-based and alcohol-based (even oil-based) stains when it comes to grain rising? I know that this particular body doesn't have a very intricate grain pattern, so there wasn't much grain raising but I'm asking a general question here
Yes, to a degree. Water soaks in deeper and raises it the most. Alcohol dries faster, and still raises it. Oil, in my experience, often does no raise it.
@@BradAngove Thanks, Brad! Also, do you recommend a sealer before primer? I didn't use sealer on my last project, just primer, and paint is holding up fine so far.
Hi Brad. Thanks for the videos. I want to do a burst on either a candlenut, paulownia, or sycamore. I have found it is not possible to get a burst on a paulownia body. Is there any treatment I can use to obtain a burst on any of these woods? Any help is appreciated. Bye the way, I am using Angelus leather dye.
hey brad, any chance you could make a video about testing cheap 5 dollar spray paint on guitars, as i have taken on an old stingray bass as a project and i need to do a tonne of wood working on the body which has left me on a low budget, so i was wondering if its worth the risk. ill buy good quality clear coat, but i only have about 40 dollars left in the budget. i hope you can give me some advice if not a video. thanks
well, that would depend on the country to be honest as i am in the uk. there is a store here called aldi, not sure if you heard of it, but they usually sell spray paint for around 5 dollars(£3.99 to be exact)
If you look back at my old 4 part series on how to paint your guitar with spray paint, that was all done with cheap Rustoleum spray cans. They were about 6-7$ Canadian back then.
thanks brad, i hope its available in scotland. ill see how the paint job goes, i really want it to go well because this is my first time painting a guitar so thats the main reason i want to go cheap, i will watch a few more of your videos because they really are useful, and ill get back to you when im done. thanks again, see ya!
If you apply the black and then sand it back you’ll accent the grain like I did with the red. I used a similar technique in my video on how to dye quilted maple.
@@BradAngove on a piece of alder would you seal the wood after dye and then apply the wipe on poly or can you just apply the poly right after the dye dries? Thanks!
I’m just glad I took your advice on TEST first. Would have been nice if krylon would have put no clear of any kind on the can, website, mailer, telegram, carrier pidgin.........
I rarely go " 'Net nanny" on CZcams ('cause there's plenty of them already) - but put some finish in another vessel and apply it from there. I was cringing every time you put that rag to the top of that pint of dye. ONE DROP of red will make a whole bottle of yellow "go orange". I know you were using some caution, but still, best practices and all......
Good info regardless. The idea of "solvent washing" really shines if you're doing a "fade" between colors (as opposed to layers over the entire surface) Maybe you could do a "red to orange" sunset kinda thing on another project. I'm guessing this looks way better in person - something about reds that never comes across well in images / films. Looks like you had real nice results on the front.
This is also a great place to employ some of that shellac - doping your dye mix will give it a bit of "fixing" ability - depends on the wood, but it can add a little more drama to sand back as more of hte color gets locked in. However - to much "working" on subsequent coats can melt it off just the same, so it can take some finesse. If I'm doing a multi-color dye with a sand-back I will sometimes spray the top color with an airbrush so I explicitly don't have to "work" the finish with a rag.
The only thing I don't like about "fast" solvent dyes is that on some woods there's just no way to keep it from looking splotchy. This is especially true with kit guitars if they're basswood or poplar. Or, if there is a way to keep them from splotching (like you can with a pre-stain and oil-based finishes) I sure haven't found it.....
+Don Vanco adding shellac with an alcohol based dye is going make a mess when you apply the next color of alcohol based dye. Remember shellac is dissolved in alcohol. Trust me on this, I've made this mistake before and was barely able to hide/cover it up. The second round of dye immediately dissolved the shellac and immediately turned into a mess. If you want to make the first layer more colorfast, you need a sealer that isn't going to be reconstituted by alcohol, like a water based sealer.
As far as dying basswood or poplar goes you have 2 options. Option A: Lay the dye to it full strength and in multiple coats in hopes that eventually you'll get something of even coloring. Option B: seal the wood with a sealer the isn't going to react to the dye base, and go to town. The colors will be muted, but at least they'll be much more homogeneous.
You guys are awesome.
DaveR's Guitars - to be clear - I'm NOT taking about dyed shellac. Most commercial alcohol dyes (like Artisan and Chestnut for instance) are LIGHTLY doped with shellac - like less than 5% of 1# cut.
As I clearly indicated in my comment - you can melt this with subsequent coats, but at the same time the effect of using a "fixative doped" dye is different than that of just dye in solvent. If you soak a rag with a secondary color and just muscle it into the finish it's just going to melt - but that's not how to do it. The effect is stunning when done correctly.
Yellow over sanded magenta - on heavily bleached black walnut: i.imgur.com/f3HaAwH.jpg
Yellow over green, heavily figured oak: i.imgur.com/5rCzKWm.jpg
Yellow over orange, same oak: i.imgur.com/WsvOXX2.jpg
+Don Vanco - Those are very cool indeed. And no, I wasn't referring to dyed shellac either. Please correct me if I'm wrong, the success of this technique depends on the porosity of the wood itself. I can see that technique working on an open grained wood like walnut, ash, oak, however, on a closed grain wood like maple or alder it would be less effective? I think that's where we were differing in our experience. And FWIW, it wasn't "muscled", it was on a maple neck, I had sprayed a THIN coat of shellac over my dyed neck. Something happened and I had to sand an area down just a bit and needed to retouch the dye. I did, and immediately, upon the dye touching the shellac, the shellac melted and began blending and bleeding. Completely unintended consequences, however it was experience that was my teacher on this. Thank you for sharing your technique, I would be very open to learn this technique, would you be willing to elaborate more?
DaveR's Guitars The technique definitely requires a "porous" wood for it to work as you see in my tests. And yeah, I'm not surprised that you didn't have good results on (hard) maple for that reason. For this to work the base color has to have some nooks-n-crannies to hide in. Figured maple tho - no problem.
The walnut sample was all done with "wiping" on color - but the top color in virtually a single pass.
The oak was done using very tight weave (all cotton) linen fabric (scrap bin at your local fabric store) that I had in a single layer on one of the large spindle cores off my spindle sander. In effect it was like and "ink roller" (that didn't roll... lol) and allowed me to wipe heavy color across the surface only and not "pull" any of the color in the pores from the sand-back.
And yeah - in all cases there is definitely some "color lift" on the base layer. When dealing with bright colors like yellow it is imperative to have fresh, clean applicators for almost every pass or they start to bleed / smear.
All those colors I used are Artisan dyes, BTW. (www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/148/6187/Artisan-Premium-Coloring-Dye) - I still mix my own with pigments from WD Lockwood (their metal complex dyes are AWESOME in lacquer if you're a fan of Gibson and Fender "classic" bursts) but the Artisan stuff is so bright, so cheap, so predictable and so repeatable that I have almost stopped mixing my own other than "classic bursts"
On figured maple I will "coarse sand" for the base color (like 180 tops), this really opens up the "lenses" on the figure so they take in a lot of color. I will sometimes do a couple coats of color to insure it's saturated but the shellac doping probably keep it from doing much. I will then go VERY high on the sand back - start with 220 and take it up to 800 or better. This is counter-intuitive to what people do on the world of furniture finishing because it has a polishing effect on the wood that can actually keep (thicker / more pigmented) finishes from penetrating, but for it results in a surface I can color nicely with a light wash and get the effect I want.
Of course every piece of wood is different - as you likely know, what worked today probably won't work the same tomorrow unless it's from the same stock, so you really have to test every piece...... I've posted this image before on one of Brad's videos - but this is a trans-black from a SINGLE pass of stain on maple that was "polished" in this fashion... i.imgur.com/IyKzjRD.jpg
This is new.. Is not a regular burst.. Not a fade.. Is like if you just left the red guitar in the sun. Real nice one.
Thank you
Gotta love the sandback technique! Another fun way to do that and keep the dyes from mixing too much is throw a light coat of water based sealer over the sanded back base color. It will help keep the second color from pulling up too much of the base color, but it also mutes the top color some. Yet another way to get different effects using different color dyes. By the way, that top turned out really nice.
You put dye on top of sealer? It’s interesting to hear that that’s one of your techniques. I only do that when I’m looking for a very washed out effect.
@@BradAngove you can. Like I said it gives a muted color on your top dye. But does help keep from pulling up the bottom dye and keeps blending down. You only use a single light coat of sealer though.
That makes sense. I do the sealer in the middle as an accenting technique for some really open grain, but that’s the opposite really. You dye the whole thing, then come back after your sealer and glaze the open grain.
Hi Brad. I did something similar with my Explorer kit Guitar, I used Crimson Guitars water based dyes, an orange and a yellow I was looking to get it similar looking to the Korina wood of the Epiphone Explorer,. but after a year I ended up sanding it all back and painting it Toyota White. It’ll be interesting to see it all finished Brad. 👍🏻
I like it! Reminds me of fall, which is my favorite season.
Thats looking so good Brad, Awesome Staining, great video, and very helpful, Thank You, Cheers
Cheers Casper. Thank you.
Nice dye job - the red really makes the grain pop. Overall nice rich honey look.
Thanks
Very cool Brad I like it.Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for watching Joe.
I recently did a Les Paul with some water based non toxic dye that worked pretty good, I ended up with a weird purplish red type of thing... it looks pretty cool. I prefer a stained guitar over a painted one unless the paint is transparent. Yes Brad, the gloves are necessary lol - without even thinking when I first dyed my guitar I don't know what I was thinking I just grabbed some paper towel and went at it.. yup for a few days I had read and purple dyed finger tips lol..
Yeah, I look pretty strange showing up at work with red hands haha.
VERY nice video !! Thanks for the tips on some new technicques to use brad !! :)
Thanks Terry. Glad you liked it.
I always use colored ink diluted in alcohol or water - whatever best dissolves the ink.
I'd like to be able to stain a maple guitar neck and fretboard, preferably different colors as well, oh yeah and also have the side markers look good when I am done :)
It’s definitely possible.
I'd love to see you do this again but with an amber and walnut burst (same as I plan to do a strat)!
I did one of those with spray cans in my video series on how to finish your guitar using behlen’s guitar finishing kit if you’re interested.
Awesome, indeed...
Glad you like it.
Brad,
Nice nuances would have like to see a last spin flip to reveal final back side color. In photo of front of CZcams we see final gloss finish looks rather like a high gloss marine spar varnish pretty nice look looking forward to final finish vlog. Keep on doing the stuff.
thanks, David
Thanks David.
Brad Angove
Brad you're absolutely welcome you keep on turning out beautiful stuff and teaching us tricks in repeatable techniques that are way cool one of the finest craftsmen I've seen on CZcams, that's great stuff. I'm pretty decent at the trades and finishing things. but you do both attorney work & are therefore great with words-manship and therein lies the ability to explain it to others, in video / visual; and for some the ability to learn is both in hearing and seeing it done & being taught.... so you stand in both sides of teaching like the great colussus one of the seven wonders of the world, on shore of the harbor show how to do; on other shore or side of harbor telling how to do it done abd not barf up fine results. So it's both show & tell, Well done amigo.
All the best, David
Thanks David. I’ve never heard the harbor analogy before; I like it.
First i guess? Cool video and hope to see more like this.
Thanks.
Could I do this and then do a gloss coat over it? I want to do this to make a kit dark brown, but I like the look and feel of gloss coats.
Yes. I apply my gloss clear coat layer in this series.
If one were to tape off parts of the body and lay the stain down along that tape line (or any other adhesive blocking-type material) would that dye come out straight/bold along that tape line or would it bleed, making the lines sloppy? Thanks.
You can generally expect that it would bleed a bit. To alleviate this, tape the opposite and then seal the area that you don’t want to stain. Then tape over the sealed area to be safe.
Blood orange burst
I have never done guitar building but I’ve been interested in getting into it because it seems like the type of hobby you could do for a long and get pride from your work. The only thing holding me back is I have no experience in the electrical side of things along with soldering and I don’t have all that much experience with painting and staining. As far as the painting and staining/finishing side of things, do you have any videos for fresh beginners?? Or any advice on where to start as far as videos or information goes?? This seems like a very rewarding hobby for a guitarist to get into and I’m hoping to one day.
Do you have a particular method by which you would like to apply your finish? By hand for example, or spray can?
Brad Angove I guess I’m open to anything. I feel like by hand would be interesting but I’m sure knowing how to do both would have its perks for different situations. At this point though probably whichever one would be easier for a beginner to grasp how to do.
Have you seen my four part series on how to paint a guitar with spray cans, or my three part series on how to finish a guitar by hand? They are old.
Brad Angove no I haven’t looked at those yet. If you think that would be a good place to start I’ll make sure to check them out!! Basically I was just looking for a good accessible starting point. Thank you for the help!! I’ve only seen a couple of your videos so far but they are really great!! Keep up the good work
Those two series, though older and not as well filmed, would be a good place to learn the basics. My 5 part series on how to paint your guitar with behlen’s guitar finishing kit also shows the basics and goes start to finish on a paintjob.
Aye when you said you can use the solvent to make detailed patterns on the back, do you mean by just having really good control with the rag/brush kinda like painting, or can you tape off patterns & then apply the solvent? Or would the tape potentially tear/lighten up the dye when removing it? Also does the same answer apply to water based dyes too homie? Sorry if it’s a dumb question I’m new to dyes & I’m trying them for the first time lol
*Also can you use an epoxy finish over a charcoal/flame topped dyed guitar?
I meant by hand with the solvent. If you’re going to tape, it would make more sense to seal first, then tape, then use a toner lacquer rather than a dye.
Yes you can epoxy over that.
I really like the finish product of the dyes.
Question, do you have a preference between using air tools versus electric? I know air tools can get away from you and remove more then you want.
I generally use pneumatic tools when I can. There’s an adjustment on most of mine that prevents that problem.
if doing this to a guitar that already has a finish do i sand it down to bare wood
If you’re staining you will need to. Not just for clear coat though.
Could these same techniques be used on an ash body that is grain filled with black tinted grain filler before applying the dye? Any problems with this approach?
That should be fine.
How do these dyes compare to Rit that seem to be popular for guitar stains?
These are quite different. Rit is water based; I have a video on that as well. These dry much faster and penetrate differently.
Dude do you have a website or a way to reach out to you for advice? I’m restoring my GR4 Steinberger and I would love to do a finish like this.
This is where people reach out to me for advice. Or on Instagram.
Hey man! Do they not sell the blood red and lemon yellow anymore? If not do you have a suggested alternative?
They should, but it will be under Mohawk now rather than Behlen. The brand was annexed.
Is there a difference between water-based and alcohol-based (even oil-based) stains when it comes to grain rising? I know that this particular body doesn't have a very intricate grain pattern, so there wasn't much grain raising but I'm asking a general question here
Yes, to a degree. Water soaks in deeper and raises it the most. Alcohol dries faster, and still raises it. Oil, in my experience, often does no raise it.
@@BradAngove thanks, that's very good to know!
Looks like Behlen discontinued those dyes. . Do you have any alternates that you'd recommend?
They may be branded under Mohawk how. But there are lots of options. BigDGuitars uses angelus leather dyes very successfully.
I am about to assemble my third kit and plan on using dupli-color. The color I like is a metallic color. Any concerns or issues with using a metallic?
Nope. There’s nothing wrong with that.
@@BradAngove Thanks, Brad! Also, do you recommend a sealer before primer? I didn't use sealer on my last project, just primer, and paint is holding up fine so far.
There’s no need to use both a sealer and a primer.
Can I use denatured alcohol as a substitute for methonal here? To move some of the dye around?
You should be able to, yes.
Can we add some Odie oil for the finish coat instead of lacquer? And do we need to sand down to apply those final coats? Thank you.
It’s an unusual choice, but technically you could do that. It wouldn’t be glossy per se though.
@@BradAngove thank you. But yes, I am going for a matte finish. Do you think oil is ok for matte or something else?
Oil will be satin. A matte clear coat would be the usual choice for matte.
@@BradAngove Thank you so much.
How did you finish this?
Hi Brad. Thanks for the videos. I want to do a burst on either a candlenut, paulownia, or sycamore. I have found it is not possible to get a burst on a paulownia body. Is there any treatment I can use to obtain a burst on any of these woods? Any help is appreciated. Bye the way, I am using Angelus leather dye.
I suggest you speak with Derek from BigDGuitars. He is the master at dyed bursts and he uses that same type of dye. I generally spray my bursts.
hey brad, any chance you could make a video about testing cheap 5 dollar spray paint on guitars, as i have taken on an old stingray bass as a project and i need to do a tonne of wood working on the body which has left me on a low budget, so i was wondering if its worth the risk. ill buy good quality clear coat, but i only have about 40 dollars left in the budget. i hope you can give me some advice if not a video. thanks
What kind of spray paint are you referring to?
well, that would depend on the country to be honest as i am in the uk. there is a store here called aldi, not sure if you heard of it, but they usually sell spray paint for around 5 dollars(£3.99 to be exact)
and i think the types i prefer would be metallic, or satin
If you look back at my old 4 part series on how to paint your guitar with spray paint, that was all done with cheap Rustoleum spray cans. They were about 6-7$ Canadian back then.
thanks brad, i hope its available in scotland. ill see how the paint job goes, i really want it to go well because this is my first time painting a guitar so thats the main reason i want to go cheap, i will watch a few more of your videos because they really are useful, and ill get back to you when im done. thanks again, see ya!
How should I do the sanding if I don’t have power tools??
By hand
Hey Brad, good work. It can be used on acoustic giitars?
Yes, it can.
What brand are the colors you are using here?? Im ready to do something like this.
Behlen. You can find these dye in the amazon link in the description of this video. It takes you to a list of products that I use on this channel.
Can you mix leather dye also for lacquer?
You can use aniline dye. I’m not sure about leather dye.
Can you spray dye? Like add lacquer to it
Yes, definitely.
Soon you will only have a matchstick size telecaster the amount of times it gets sanded down lol.... 🇬🇧🎸🎸🎸
I had four of these haha. Although, this is the last one being used for test/demo finishes at this point...
Would a black dye allow you to still see the grain or do you think it'd be too dark?
For the first step?
@@BradAngove Using the method you do here. I'm still on the fence about doing a spray or spray can black.
If you apply the black and then sand it back you’ll accent the grain like I did with the red. I used a similar technique in my video on how to dye quilted maple.
@@BradAngove Have you ever used "liquid glass" epoxy on a guitar? I saw a video using it on a box lid and it looked really nice.
I haven’t.
Do you not need to seal the body before putting on dye?
The dye won’t soak in and dye the wood if it’s sealed.
Doh! Funnily enough I've already dyed one and didn't seal it and it worked out okay, just thought I better check...thanks Brad!
Would wipe on poly be a good option for finish on a dyed guitar?
It certainly can be.
@@BradAngove on a piece of alder would you seal the wood after dye and then apply the wipe on poly or can you just apply the poly right after the dye dries? Thanks!
Either way is doable. I often jump straight to the poly and just add an extra couple layers.
@@BradAngove appreciate it as always brad
What kind of wood is this?
Alder I think.
@@BradAngove that's what i was thinking thanks!
Hey bubba, do you know about mixing pearls into candy? Pros/cons, thoughts?
The idea is you spray the pearls first, and then go over top of that with the candy to get the full effect of it.
Brad Angove I sure appreciate you answering my goofy questions. I did a test of laquer over the krylon stained glass, and that is a no go!
Update: krylon stained glass can’t be clear coated! It would’ve be nice to put that on the can somewhere!
Yeah, I’m pretty sure that krylon is an enamel. That’s asking for trouble haha.
I’m just glad I took your advice on TEST first. Would have been nice if krylon would have put no clear of any kind on the can, website, mailer, telegram, carrier pidgin.........