Same blade, different saw = different story! [video
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- čas přidán 28. 01. 2019
- #cheaptracksaws #tracksawworkshop #tracksaws
At the end of the recent Tracksaw Workshop series (a new users guide to track saws and plunge saws, bit.ly/TracksawWorkshop) I took a look at some alternative blade choices, and to be honest I was a little underwhelmed with the results. On a whim, I put the same blades in my Festool plunge saw and repeated the cross-cut tests and these are the results. Enjoy!
Tracksaw Workshop P7; blade choice, tool maintenance and accessories - • TW P7; Improvements an...
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Other blades:-
Key blades & Fixings - amzn.to/2Tbpsms
Festool - amzn.to/2AVt84D
Festool TS55 Tracksaw - amzn.to/2pGvzDS (US: amzn.to/2oOgGhw)
Festool T18 drill/driver - amzn.to/2QAHpK1 (US: amzn.to/2RPuOCR)
Festool CXS - amzn.to/2syMO8Z (US: amzn.to/2r0TZ7U)
Festool PDC 18/4 - amzn.to/2s3J0eq (US: amzn.to/2tWUHEL)
Festool Midi extractor - amzn.to/2tCIN3Q (US: amzn.to/2rKNIOx)
Festool lever clamp - amzn.to/2pOohLD (US: amzn.to/2pnFZIM)
Moldex 6810 in-ear defenders - amzn.to/2sTwQJE (US:amzn.to/2sThGo1)
Hultafors Talmeter tape measure - amzn.to/2pHwnbH (US: amzn.to/2oqLQc9)
Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
Bradawl - amzn.to/2qWTbln (US: amzn.to/2pZqVRm)
Mirok square - etsy.me/2MC0RTZ
3M double-sided tape - amzn.to/2ROIR0c (US: similar - amzn.to/2B08qAZ0
Tim Sway’s SqWAYre - goo.gl/sDofEg
Polyvine PolyTen PVA - amzn.to/2HBxK66
Straightedge by Ooznest (global shipping) - bit.ly/Ooznest
Digital caliper - amzn.to/2UaeuxG, (US: amzn.to/2Tax8FF)
Seam roller - amzn.to/2Hq7rj3 (US: amzn.to/2TbPBBU) - Jak na to + styl
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![Lidl's Parkside Tracksaw [Video #323]](/img/tr.png)
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informational. it's always interesting at how the slightest thing can make a difference. my festool blade is great! and I've always switched out my blades to Freud diablo in my miter saws because they cut like butter.
I am always learning something new from you Peter. Thank for sharing with us.
Pleasure - thanks for watching! 👍👍
Great video Peter as always, love the new jingle 👌
Really interesting exercise, that gives me a bit more to think about when I’m replacing the next machine 🤔👍
There’ll be a bit more to come when I do the review.
Hi Peter, you may recall that I'm a Track Saw newbie. I used my Makita for the first time this weekend. Removed and refitted the splinter guard (had to use fresh double sided tape though), used silicon spray on all runners and changed the original (used) Makita blade for a Freud LCL6M01064. Both sides of the cut are flawless, with no breakout on hardwood ply at all - a "factory edge" on both. The blade is much thinner than the original Makita and the teeth are supposedly "special" in some magical metallurgical way. I know you know almost everything but wonder if you've tried Freud? Big thank you for the TS series, a massive help.
Nice one Peter. Thank u
"Is all about the blades ,about the blades ,no nailers"( insert spinning blade here ) had to do Peter ...lol great video Peter as always
Thanks Syd! 😂😂👍👍
Excellent! Much appreciated.
Thank you so much for this informative series discussing plunge saws.Your video series validated my purchase of the Festool plunge saw and other Festool equipment because of the quality of the cuts. I recognize the other plunge saws have their have their place in woodworking but I feel so much better with my Festool purchases after watching your in depth comparison of plunge saws. Once again, thank you very, very much for this series of videos.
My pleasure! I don’t know anyone who’s bought the TS55 (or the Domino) and regretted it 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Love my domino too. I love the way you use it in your build videos :)
Thanks Peter, that ups the ante somewhat on the budget versus expensive options.
Yeah. Bit of a head scratcher why the only the trend and axi blades struggles in the Aldi though. 🤷♂️🤔
ive been using a thin kerf saxton 60 tooth blade in my cheap rutlands plunge saw. Really good cuts from it
I've had 4 blades from them, really good for the money!
Nice exercise. Some people put painters tape along the cut line before sawing and claim that it helps. It seems like a lot of extra work if you are going to be making a lot of short cuts. As always, thanks Peter!
Thanks! Yes, there’s all kinds of things you can do to get a cleaner cut - the purpose of this test was to see how they did without those measure being taken, and tbh they were all perfectly acceptable. 👍👍
Peter: Stumbled on your channel a few weeks ago and an lovin' it. Great presentation skills.
The tracksaw series was super and very enlightening. I have the FT systems and learned a lot.
PS: YES, I am a Festool junkie. JimE
Thank you! 👍👍
Thanks for this Peter. I had a Sheppach Track and saw (?Sp). When the track edge needed replacing I stuck a Festool edge on the track. The result was a huge improvement over the original - even when the original was new.
Yes. I replace the Aldi ones with the Makita splinter guard in P7 of the tracksaw workshop series and it made a big difference.
Been away for the long holiday weekend here so have still got those videos to look forward to watching
Nice video Peter, not sure if it helps when trying to decide if the ALDI saw is worth buying or not. Looking forward to your thoughts.
Fantastic little addition to the track saw series videos, surprised by the Ax blades as they premium ones do really well in my 315mm table saw but glad to know there are better options when it comes to track saws, definitely not helped me to decide on track saw as was the thinking of the Aldi or Titan ones but now thinking should wait and save up. Thank you!
Thanks Craig. There’s a bit more on this story as I’ll be comparing the Aldi with the Titan soon 👍
Interesting test Peter, great video as always. I use the Freud pro blades as a rule but only because they're tried and trusted by myself, I may just get some others now if only to do some similar tests.. 🤔
I have Freud pro blades on a couple of saws, and they cut really well 👍👍
Great video:) Keep up the good work:)
Well that was unexpected, good on you mate👍
Interesting comparisons.
Yeah, surprised me too Bill, given how relatively poorly some of the did in the Aldi saw last week 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop who would have thunk it, aye!
some serious kick back happened at some point with that track.. mine has the same dents
A good blade makes hell of a difference, I've inherited a oldish Metabo mitre saw, the original blade has seen better days so I replaced it with a Freud TCT pro with 60T, the original circular blade was 48T, all I can say is 'WOW' what a difference the cuts are now , well worth the £40 It cost.....
I think you should forget paid work from now on Peter, “60 minute workshop” should be created, and posts should be daily... or am I too greedy!? 😂 Thank you for the channel!
Haha! Or just rename the channel “60 Minutes”... wait, has that been taken already?? 😂😂👍👍
Interesting...thanks!
I have the Titan tracksaw with a Freud blade, I think it's a great combination but I don't have anything to compare it with. Incidentally I'm on to my fourth Millard Shaker Door build already...
I have a couple of Freud blades in other saws and they work really well. And glad to hear about the doors...👍👍
Fantastic series. I'm holding out for the Triton but feeling I'll have to save the pennies and get a Festool...
Thanks! 👍👍
Hi Peter., just want to find out is it possible to fit 2.2 mm thickness Keysand fixing blade on makita cordless plunge saw? You may have any experience with that? That's
Have to be honest I don’t think I’ve ever changed the blade in my Makita, but as long as they’re 165mm x 20mm they should be fine. 👍👍
How much of the difference do you think, if any, may be down to the splinter gaurd?
On the waste side, very little! I’m sure it makes a difference on the good side of the cut though. 👍
So the unanswered question is, is how did the Aldi blade do in the Festool?
Haha! I think that’s a test for someone else to try out, lol! 😂😂👍👍
Peter I think that you are missing a small trick. There is a green "gizmo" in your festool box that replaces the transparent window in the festool saw. The purpose of it is to act as a splitguard on the waste side once pushed down. Saw it (no pun intended) in a festool instructional video. Great series BTW and I am firmly into tracksaws now as I too have limited space in my workshop.
Thanks, but no - no trick missed. The waste-side splinter guard is a festool-only thing, and as we’re testing the blades here - not the festool gadgets - it wouldn’t really make much sense to use it - if all the waste side cuts were perfect, what would that tell you about the blades?? 🤷♂️ 👍👍
Did you redo the splinter guard each time? Could be down to variations in kerf.
Thanks. Not my first rodeo - kerfs are all identical 2.2mm 👍
So was i, even the same blade in my mafell and dewalt saws cut differently. After i tried it i had to replace one of my spinter guards
@@10MinuteWorkshop also need to consider the plate thickness as this and the kerf affect the tooth position relative to splinter guard
Thanks Peter for another interesting video. Never thought about how much influence the saw would have on the cut, especially as the ALDI one is new. My money would be on the bearings (size and quality) as the issue here. I know where I have replaced them in some cheap items, the change in the performance is quite marked, but bearings being undersized for the job can be another problem. Wouldn't expect the Germans to get it wrong, but hey they did give the world dieselgate.
Cheers Bob. The mystery to me is why two of the blades performed poorly in the Aldi when the other two were decent, but they all did a good job (some better than others, obvs) in the Festool?? If it was bearings, I’d expect it to affect each blade the same - or could the difference be explained by the good blades being better balanced, do you think??
@@10MinuteWorkshop Probably better balance in the blades.
Just a thought Peter. Have a look at the Workzone saw and see if it has any endfloat on the motor/blade mounting. It could explain the bad cuts.
I haven’t looked, but yeah, got to be something like that. I’ll
take a look and check when I’m not earning a crust. 👍
will it not be helpful to use splinter guard for wrong side (its available for festool).
Yes, of course - but the point of the test is to give them a tough challenge, to see how they perform! A test where you know the result will be perfect is no test 🤷♂️👍
My guess would be speed of rotation affecting cut quality Peter!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nope - both as near identical as I could get them. Aldi’s a fixed 5500 RPM, Festool Max’s out at 5200 or so. 🤷♂️
I recall seeing a video , John Heisz I think, in which it was mentioned that you'll sometimes see somebody using a sliding mitre/chop saw and they'll start off with a light pass pulling the saw backwards. The explanation was that this gave a scoring cut that prevented, or at least reduced, splintering break out on the top side. I was wondering if it would be practical to do the same with a track saw in order to get a clean cut on both sides?
Thanks. I cover scoring cuts in Part 3 of the tracksaw workshop series - bit.ly/TracksawWorkshop Never found a scrap of difference between a forward or backwards cut, personally, but by all means give it a try 🤷♂️ 👍
Given the bearings in the Festool & the soft start motor I'm not surprised, did you try (causing you even more work) doing a score cut one side before cutting right through, have you tried a Diablo blade, another great informative video, great stuff
No, no scoring cuts on this test - and the point of course, wasn’t to get a perfect cut, but to give each blade a challenging cut and see how they do. Haven’t tried the Diablo blades, no, but they’re on the list for the next time 👍👍
I wonder how the Festool saw would work on the Aldi track, and the Aldi saw on the Festool track?
Nope. 👎 More detail on this when I do the Aldi saw review, but the Aldi/Scheppach rails are a weak point, unfortunately.
Did you take the Kerf thickness into consideration, with the plastic splinter guard cut. ??
Yep. All same kerf on these blades.
The video on Patreon sound interesting but I think I'll wait till it comes on on Betamax!
All ply has odd ply numbers, so to avoid a lot of the tear out, rip, not cross cut, with the outer ply grain, if you want a better finish and to be able to use both pieces. But sometimes you have to cross cut. great video Mr Peter, as always young man !
Thanks! The point of the test wasn’t to get a great finish, but to give the blades a proper challenge. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Yup, it helps give folk an informed choice, what blade with which saw ... finish etc
Another great learning experience!.
I had an unexpected similar result with my cheep Triton Tracksaw, (I use a quality freud blade) sawing some live edge timber for a table hit a steel spike hidden in the timber totaled my blade, the only other one I had that fit was a 2.6mm kerf blade not a thin kerf, out of desperation I fitted it and could not believe the difference in the cut, It was amazing. a thick blade in a tracksaw for regular use like to hear your thoughts on it...?
That’s fascinating! Never used a thick blade in a tracksaw - now Inhabe something else I need to test, lol! 👍👍
How about the Screwfix titan track saw you have?
Yep, still have it - I’ll be comparing it with the Aldi when I do the review. 👍👍
Great video Peter. Have you looked at the blade geometry in detail? The carbide insert rake angle, side relief grinding, and whether the front face is ground orthoganally, have an influence on chip flow and quality of cut. This coupled with the blade to saw fit , r p m and depth of cut make control of the variables quite problematic. Resin build up and the finish on the blade also affect the outcome. Have you tried cleaning the blades and using a wax lubricant ? This may help the outcome - but as you have discovered, it's a bit of a minefield. I had, as a manufacturer of such items, many a sleepless night pondering the various permutations of potential cutting geometries. I bet you daren't have a go with router cutters - now that is interesting.
Thanks! No, I’m going at these strictly as a punter would; put the blade in the saw and make a cut. Each blade is brand new, apart from the Festool which has already done a few miles, and each of the other blades has made a total of two or three short cuts, all in nice quality Birch ply - what was shown in part 7 of the tracksaw workshop series, essentially. Depth of cut was set to no more than 3mm through the depth of the material into an MDF backing board. Blade speed was constant throughout - fixed in the Aldi saw and max in the Festool. That all the blades performed better in the Festool shouldn’t be a surprise, but that a couple of them (and only a couple of them) did so poorly in the Aldi saw is a head-scratcher 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop You may be getting into the realms of resonance with a blade/ saw combination reacting in some mutually sympathetic manner. This maybe prevalent in a less well made saw, where tolerances, fit and finish, aren' t up to Festool standard - but who knows !
Peter, I notice that your TS 55 looks like you are running without the outside splinter guard. Do you find it unnecessary? The outside splinter guard seems to be a feature missing from the cheap track saws, including my Makita, though Makita does have the scoring cut feature to minimize the splintering. Perhaps blade runout is worse on the cheap track saws, contributing to the rougher cut, or more likely parallelism of the blade to the track slot is slightly off.
Thanks Todd. The blade parallelism is getting mentioned a lot, but it wouldn’t explain why some blades did OK in the cheap saw and some didn’t, when they all performed well in the Festool?? If it were down to blade parallelism in the saw, then surely it would affect all the blades, no?? I agree, it’s a bit of a head scratcher! Re. The waste-side splinter guard, it’s not something I typically have the need for, no - and obvs. the purpose of this test wasn’t to get a perfect cut, but to give the blades a challenging cut to see how they handled it. 👍👍
Thanks for the response Peter, it is a head scratcher for sure.
I have suspicions about the Workzone track and how the splinter guard sits on the work piece, but I haven't had a chance to properly investigate yet. I say this because the attention to detail of the gluing of the various strips (front and back) was appalling and I had to take a knife to trim some of it to get the track to sit flat!
Yes, more on this in the Aldi review, out soon.
Has anyone use a track saw without the track? I have a battery power circular saw and sometimes run out of battery when breaking down scrap. Can i break down scrap with a track saw without a track (like a normal circular saw) or is that too unsafe?
It’s not a great idea tbh as you have to keep the pressure on it to keep the blade plunged, which makes it harder to maintain a straight cut. I’ve done it now and then - who hasn’t forgotten the rail bag now and then - but it’s not something I’d recommend doing regularly. 👍
Thanks Peter. I'm not sure how to interpret the results... I can understand how whether or not the blade touches the splinter guard would have an influence on the results (which will depend on the saw, for a given track and blade), but the saw itself is more puzzling... perhaps some wobble/poor alignement of the blade axis or a speed effect... I'm sure it will be revealed in due time though!
It’s a bit of a h as-scratcher tbh, which is why I didn’t come to any great conclusion here; if the Aldi saw isn’t running true (blade wobble etc...) then why dod it only affect the the Trend and Axcaliber blades, why not the Festool
and Key blades? Odd 👍👍
At the risk of turning like your sparring partner Andy, you may want to redo the test to see if the results are consistent with the poorly performing blades at least... there could be some geometry issue with these blades depending on how they are mounted (clutching at straws, probably ;-) )
I'm honestly not surprised that a trade rated saw works better than a consumer grade. I've bought cheap tools in the past, and nearly always had to buy the expensive tool later anyway after the cheap one proved unfit for purpose.
Can't watch it right now. But shall I, later? Or will I be tempted to buy a different blade? This Millard feller is costing me money!
I’m not selling you anything Caspar - I just make you want to buy something... 😂😂👍👍
Me too, first a hvlp spray gun, then a Mak' track saw and now bench dogs and alley extrusion. - thanks Mr. Millard 😁😁😁
😆👍
Obviously the Aldi has a bit more run out in the arbor bearing and maybe the track itself is not quite as tightly machined. Now we know that there are a couple of blades that will improve waste side cuts on the cheaper tool.
Maybe the festool blade having had more time in the saw is actually an advantage. That is to say maybe blades need to wear-in. A burr might get removed or something? Might be interesting to see the performance of a brand new festool blade vs a used one?
The fresh out of the box Festool ones are better.
Did your saw come with a splinter guard shoe for the front of the saw? Item 499011. Gives you splinter free cuts on the waste side. Works really well for me.
Yes. The purpose of they test isn’t to get a perfect cut - it’s to give the blade a challenging cut and see how it performs. 👍👍
Keyblades do a triple chip blade now, I've not tried one yet . The standard 48 tooth ones is great in my Mafell anyway.
Yes, I saw, thanks Chris! Was trying to keep the price down on these blades though, all in the £20-30 range aside from the Festool. Very impressed with the key blades 48T for ~£21 or so 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop yeah they've gradually gone up as the popularity has risen. I'm sure I bought 3 keyblades for less than £50 back when they came out last year.
Hi Peter, have Aldi changed the blades supplied I wonder? Mine purchased in December came with a 2.4mm kerf blade (and is specified in the manual) and not the 2.2mm ones that you’ve been testing? Presumably you’d get identical results as long as swapping ‘like for like’ but may not be ideal if setting up for a 2.4mm then swapping in a 2.2mm perhaps unknowingly.... best to check.
Hi Paul. No, the Workzone saw is the oddball with a 24T 2.4mm kerf; I'm taking another look at 48T blades, and these typically come - as these all did - with a 2.2mm kerf. Edited to add: in case it isn’t obvious, in this video all cuts were made with a fresh splinterguard. 👍
What speeds do the two saws run at? Could that be the difference? Or could it be wobble? Izzy Swan (who Wen brand of the PL55) said the bearings sounded cheap...
Aldi/Scheppach is fixed speed saw, Festool was run at 11... 😂 Could be wobble on the Aldi saw, but why would it only affect the Axminster and Trend blades, but not the Festool or Key blades?? 🤷♂️
So more likely to be rpm differences. Does running the Aldi saw through the material slowly yield better results on those two blades?
5500 rpm vs 5200 rpm 🤷♂️All cuts made at a leisurely pace, nothing forced, all as consistent as can be made in a non-scientific test. 👍
Aldi is rated at 5500 isn’t it ha. Who knows then. Must be something that the superior quality is doing to get better results?I’m going to get the Festool blade at some point. Btw. In my local Aldi, the saw is now £59.99. (And laser level was £15 from £22 so picked that up)
You are a silver-tongued charmer, David. Your honeyed words compelled me to rush out and blow my pension on a TS55... :-)
Whops! Why on earth did I call you David? I'm sorry. Blame it old age and breathing in too much sawdust...
😂DW, happens to me all the time 😂👍
Pete... question pleeze..
Are the Festool & the Aldi both running the same rpm's ?
It "might" make the difference ...
👍😎☘
As near as they can be; Aldi is fixed at 5400rpm, Festool maxes out at 5200; I know - if only it went up to 11... 😂👍
Thanks Pete... wasn't sure if they were revvin the same... 🙄
OT ... I bought Lidls new 20v cordless, brushless circular saw 190mm blade (came WITHOUT BLADE) ... cuts great... I swapped the blade for a 160 I had & I still have approx 35mm cutting capacity but it cuts like the proverbial knife through butter... & the 5Ah battery loves it too !! 👍😎☘
hello peter,
after burning out my t55 and the recent and constant price rises in Festool products, I have decided to go the way of mafell
And I must say with 300w more power and far superior dust extraction with complete blade encasement ( also compatible with Festool rails ) all coming in around the same price I'm never going back to Festool for a track saw .
Great videos pleased your still going strong
I know a few guys who’ve switched to Mafell for their saws and are very happy. Out of interest are you on 110v??
@@10MinuteWorkshop no 240v
i used to work on sites and moved to private builds, i cant stand 110v !!
I work in Birch ply a lot and sometimes size 2 boards at once.
This is where the mafell comes into its own. The Festool slows and cuts off, mafell keeps on going, the extraction is incredible also
Did anyone have trouble undoing the saw blade locking screw on the workzone saw
Not here, no. Anyone else??
I've only watched this video and not the previous, but if you haven't used a fresh splinter guard calibrated to the exact blade then would that not cause a problem? If it is out by some fraction of a millimetre then perhaps that's where the 'furring' comes from?
Blade kerf is identical for all blades - standard 2.2mm all around. Tracksaw user for a dozen years or more, not my first rodeo, you know??👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Oh I'm well aware how long you've been using one for! Not really looking for an argument here so one last comment would be intolerance in the manufacturing process and not being exactly 2.2mm or the offset from the centre of the blade and the teeth. Don't they recommend that when you change a blade that you apply a new splinter guard strip?
Fair enough - but I’ve never changed the splinter guard with a blade change - it seems absurd to me; if the manufacturers specify a 2.2mm kerf - not 2.0mm or 2.1mm - then there shouldn’t be any variation and if there is then it’s on the blade makers, no??
@@10MinuteWorkshop Just trying to find a reason for the Axminster blade, that was a surprise to me. It's a great test to give peace of mind to people looking to save a bit of money. But it looks like if you want the best cut stick with Festool. Not a problem for me, like you I love it, actually might have been one of your videos that sealed the deal to buy one. I also only use Festool abrasives now, except for a huge collection of old stuff that I use for hand sanding now.
Understand 👍 The real mystery is that the Trend & Axi blades did poorly on the Aldi saw, but all did decently in the Festool 🤷♂️ The bargain though is the Key blades - £21 and cuts like the Festool blade in the Aldi and TS55 👍👍
What plywood do you use it looks so much better than the rubbish I buy or more to the point where do you purchase it from. Love your videos by the way 👍😂
Thanks! It’s regular Birch ply, and I buy from a local (to me) timber yard, ajferguson.co.uk. I’ve never seen much variation in the quality of Birch ply - just a question of how good the face veneers are eg plugged, or clear. 👍👍
Peter Millard thanks for the reply much appreciated
Did you ever try freud blades. They seem to be up there with the best but also very expensive.
I have a couple in other saws - nice blades. I was trying to keep the blades tested here comparable i.e. 48T, 160 x 20, 2.2mm kerf and in the £20-£30 bracket. The nearest Freud 48T/160x20 had a 2.8mm kerf and was ~£40-odd, so didn't make it into this comparison. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Nice I have been watching blade tests on a channel callled Project Farm. Nice tests but nothing really measures up to real life use that's why I asked. I'm pretty sure we get unbiased reviews from you aswell.
TBH there are so many variables with things like blade tests, all I can hope to be is consistent in the feed rate, and honest in reporting my findings 👍
Nice video. Is there no ‘red’ blade for the track saw? One of the first, if not *the* first video I saw from your Gosforthian podmate was his installation and review of a red Freud/Diablo blade.
Close to 32k subscribers before end of January? Niiice month.
Thanks Frank! I was trying to keep the blades as similar as possible - 160 x 20, 48T 2.2mm kerf in the ~£20-30 price range. The Freud pro 48T is 2.8mm kerf and £40-odd. Great blades - I have a couple in other saws - but I didn’t want to get into other variables like re-cutting the splinter guard or using a different rail for that one blade. 👍👍
Will make a Hollywood production... this movie is coming late 2020... need to have a table saw and a bandsaw... but you know how some tools are... like a diva 😜🇨🇭
😂👍👍
I’ve been using the Trend blades with my Mafell MT55 for a while now. I’d agree there not quite as good as the genuine blade but they are £13 rather than £60+ of a genuine blade. To me I get 95% of the performance for 20%!+ of the cost it’s a reasonable trade off.
Thanks! Where do you get them for £13? 👍
Fair few options on fleabay.
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263997399348
I don’t even bother sharpening them at that price.
Trenddirect 48t 2.2 £12.81
Found them to be excellent value compared to festool @£70ish each
They also do deals for 3 packs👍
Nice one Peter. What’s with the marks on your rail at 2:09 looks like a kickback?
Thanks! Last time I let someone use my saw/MFT ‘just for a few quick cuts’ and they did that. 🙄 Never again. 👍👍
I was also curious as you mentioned you'd never experienced kickback on a track saw. I was about to call you out on it
I also have very similar marks on my Titan tracksaw track, acquired when it was first used. "Oops, won't do that again" I thought to myself. Or similar words - I forget 😯
Great as always.
Question:
Is is possible to repeat the test using your table saw? Does the blades fit?
Kind regards.
Thanks! No - these are strictly for plunge saws, wrong size altogether. 👍
A gentleman as always.
Many thanks.
Can you recommend a saw blade for my mitre saw from bnq its a McAllister 210mm x 3mm dia 48 tooth...
TIA Peter...👍
Hi. Not really I'm sorry - I've only ever used original Festool blades on my Kapex, so no real experience of alternatives for mitre saws. Tracksaws, I'm your man, but mitre saws, not so much I'm afraid! 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks for getting back to me...👍
That's a very interesting result, I wonder if was one cause or several small imperfections adding up, wobbly arbour, blade not spinning true, splinter guard too thin/hard etc etc. I know it's beating a dead horse but it would be interesting to try the aldi saw on the festool track and vice versa. I know for instance I get a slightly better cut from my lidl saw when I run it on a festool track, the track is slightly smoother and the splinter guard is thicker and bit more flexible. Then again I have made chip free cuts on laminate flooring using the stock blade and track so there is very little in it.
It does settle me now though about the trend blades as I have a 48t that is my fine cut blade, so far only used it a handful of times for MFC, I was worried it was going to be crappy quickly lol.
I use the stock blade for most cuts, the trend for MFC and I have a few thin kerf Titan blades (only 125mm I think) that I use for breaking down sheet goods like chipboard, the splinter guard doesn't work in those cases because of the thin kerf but that doesn't matter on rough cuts.
Yes. The headscratcher though, is why the results differed between the blades: the Key and Festool blades produced decent results on the Aldi saw & track, but the Axi and Trend were poor. All were good on the Festool saw/track though. If there was any issue of the Aldi saw and track, then it should affect all the blades, no? Aldi track was the one with a replaced splinter-guard BTW 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Oh yes that is a headscratcher. Not wanting to cast aspersions but is it possible (considering how many blades changes were going on) that some muck was interfering with the fit of the blades on the aldi saw. Easy enough to do, especially since you mentioned the blade change was awkward with no lock?
@@caskwith No, I was particularly fastidious for that reason; blades were changed on a clear bench, and the saw locked in the plunged position with a clamp so I had both hands free. 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop Well I'll go back to scratching what little hair remains on my head then! haha.
I would like to have seen you use decorators tape before you cut, its like chalk and cheese the difference. I use it every time I need a finished edge that is going to be seen.
Thanks, yes, masking tape works well for hi-gloss and laminated boards, but IME not so great for natural timbers. Also, and perhaps I didn’t explain this properly, but I’m not trying to get a perfect cut; the whole point of the test is to give the blades a challenging cut and see how they do without resorting to those kind of tricks 👍
Are the Triton blades any good? Screwfix have a 48T blade for ony £10 and I was wondering if this would be a reasonable upgrade to the titan saw?
Triton blades are supposed to be very good, and 165mm sona good for for the Titan. Haven’t tried them myself though 👍
I have two triton saws, Tracksaw and the larger circular saw in a triton Table, The riton blades are OK but I found soon blunt, so Ive always switched to Freud blades and kept the tritons as a backup.
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks! They also have a 60T blade for only £15 - is it worth going to that?
As long as the kerf is the same ill put any blade in me festool 75 or 55 if there cheaper there a keeper
Yep, I’ll try anything that fits. 👍👍
That’s got to be down to kerf thickness.
The splintering on the non waste piece is because the splinter guard isn’t matched to the blade.
Kerf is identical (2.2mm) in each blade - or should be, according to the manufacturers.
Maybe upgrade the Aldi rail by substituting a Makita SG?
Yep, did that for the tests 👍 And again, it wouldn’t explain why some blades did well with the Aldi, and some didn’t 🤷♂️
Did you measure the kerf of the different blades. If the blade is slightly thinner the track splinter strip will be ineffective. Great content and video, thanks
Yep, all blades are the standard 2.2mm kerf.
Really interesting but what is the real result ?- is the festoon saw spinning the blade in some mysteriously better way or is the festool rail and splinter guard just more effective - `OR is just that the combination of the Festool Saw and Festool rail just a marriage made in Germany?
That's the mystery Norman; the Festool and Key blades both did decently in both saws; the Axminster and Trend blades did markedly better in the Festool than in the Aldi. So is the Aldi some kind of kryptonite for some blades? Kerf was the same on all blades, same speed (as near as is possible) and the splinter-guards were freshly trimmed for each session. It's a headscratcher, and I don't guarantee answers - only more questions! 👍
I’ll bet under power the ALDI saw spindle has play or rough bearings
@@Stop..carry-on Then why does it only affect the Axminster and Trend blades, and not the Festool and Key blades??
Peter I have to say that was quite interesting. The results speak for themselves. However I'm still quite upset that I cannot get Aldi tools in the United States! Oh my word! Just for the bandsaw alone.😢😢😢
Pretty sure they only make 240v so not much use to you I’m afraid, lol 👍👍
The higher priced blades are probably sharper than the cheaper ones, however, when you combine cheaper materials, cheaper manufacturing processes, and engineering to a price point, you get a tool with a decent amount of built-in slop.
And yet the cheapest blade (Key blades & fixing @ £21) produced the one of the cleanest cuts in the Aldi and Festool saw 🤷♂️🤔
@@10MinuteWorkshop I didn't realize that the Key was the cheapest blade. I'm going to plead ignorance of UK brands, instead of admitting that I wasn't paying attention on the original video
So it seems to be about the build quality of the saw, cheap saws has more arbor run out, a quality saw is, not surprisingly much better
And all this test with a bandsaw? Have no idea if that would be a great idea bz it takes longer ... mbe 1 minute longer but the cut could be better - what do you - Peter & audience - think or have to say? 🤔🤔🤔🤔😜🇨🇭
Tell you what - you do it and let me know when the videos out 😂👍👍
I'm not sure the 'saw difference' assertion is accurate.... Why? Well the accuracy with which each saw & blade combo tracks the cut edge of the splinter guard makes a massive difference. I have 2 Makitas and had to calibrate them both to the same track-to-kerf offset so they both kiss the splinter strip at exactly the same point (and are also set to the same "toe". (there's a Festool USA recommendation to do the same with >1 saw per track).
Except... these blades all have the same kerf. They were in the same saw with the same setup, but produced markedly different results. It’s a head scratcher, for sure, but Ibsint think the difference between the blades a can be attributed to the methodology. Happy to be proved wrong, as always 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop To my mind the difference could be down to the "parallelism" of the blade to the saw body/rail. If the back of the blade, as it exits, is slightly off it would/could lift the top of the veneer. Some years ago I had a similar problem with biscuit jointers. My Elu suffered from a drop off the bench (sob) and I tried a couple of other makes - I have an understanding tool supplier - before I found one that produced a truly parallel biscuit slot. OK, the price was a lot higher but I got a joint that was accurate. You can imagine the problems that come from not having a biscuit that is not parallel to the surface you are working from.
But the blades produced different results in the cheap saw - two cut well, two not so much. I understand the ‘parallelism’ could differ from saw to saw, but not blade to blade. 🤷♂️👍
Axminster tool are always bragging that their axcaliber blades are better than all the rest because they have a sharper angle on the tungsten tip,
🤷♂️ Nit my experience of the ones I tried.
Its the blade not the brand nor the human... 🤓😜🇨🇭I spend money on a good blate than on a pizza & beer & movie 🤓😜🇨🇭
Festool owns you
Nope. I own Festool, amongst a fair few other brands. And all bought with the money I earned, one built-in wardrobe, one alcove cabinet, one bookcase at a time. 👍👍
The Trend Professional Blades are absolutely appalling. Trend even got involved when slagged off how terrible their blades are on Twitter but as soon as I gave them all the details & photographic evidence they blanked me & welched on sending me a replacement blade. I have been using the 60T Lumberjack Pro blade last few months & they absolutely brilliant, it only recently lost its edge after used to cut some worktops & a loads of laminate sheets. The best part they are now only £14.95 & give a perfect cut even trimming Oak doors. If you get the chance I would urge you to give one a test. Just my two pence worth 😉
Thanks Darren! As the tests show, while the trend and Axminster blades performed poorly in the Aldi saw, they were 1000% better in the Festool. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I've only used the Trend Pro in a TS 55 but I was shocked at just how appalling they are. I will dig out the photos later and post them on your Twitter so you can see just how bad the burn marks & kerf marks are on the Oak doors. As your test is in some 18mm board it wouldn't have highlighted just how bad the blade deflection is with the Trend. My experience was with a brand spanking new blade out of the box. I nearly bought some Axcaliber TS 55 blades last weekend & glad I didn't now, but I do have some 230mm Axcaliber blades for my Hilti WCS 85 & they do not perform anywhere near as good as the Freud Blades in the same saw. I've also tried different Stehle blades in the TS 55 & found them on par with Festool blades but I find both lose their edge quickly. I have a KeyBlades 48T to test now also so will report back on them.
@@WombleUK I was very impressed with the Key blades & fixings blade for the price, but I'll give those Lumberjack Pro blades a try, thanks! And yes, I rarely cut anything thicker than a couple of sheets of ply these days, lol! 👍
I had a trend pro blade in my bosch mitre saw it was a terrible finish. Used it for one day then went and got a Freud.
@@10MinuteWorkshop TBH when I first tried them I would have been more than happy if they had performed on par or slightly worse than the Stehle & Festool blades but allowing for the fact they are less than half the price I would say they outperformed. The blade lasted about 6 months & I do abuse them tbh by not swapping blades over when I should, the Festool/Stehle normally last about 3 months ish & drop off really fast once they start to blunt.
As a side note, both eBay sellers shipped the KeyBlades & Lumberjack Pro next day delivery. Both Stehle blade sellers i used were a proper fxxk about with really slow shipping.
That was more like 5 minute ish.
Have you considered the plate thickness of each brand of blade rather than kerf?
No, because the blade is always referencing against the motor spindle, and the teeth are always centred on the blade, so any plate thickness shouldn’t affect the cut - that’s just down to the teeth. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks for the reply Peter - really getting into your channel!!
So, plate thickness doesn't affect vibration and deflection as the blade cuts... A bit like adding a spine to a hand saw to stop flex?