How To Adjust Your Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder
Vložit
- čas přidán 31. 05. 2021
- Adjustment Instructions
Since you increase the amount of fluid the system flows by setting the clutch pedal higher, the adjustment will begin from the shortest setting possible.
The pedal will appear to be about halfway down when compared to its location with the factory cylinder installed. Adjust the turnbuckle in 1-2 turn
increments to lengthen the rod (be sure that the rod coming out of the master cylinder itself isn’t spinning).
After each adjustment, start the car in neutral and attempt to shift into first gear. If it doesn’t go into gear smoothly, don’t force it (you’ll risk damaging your transmission’s fork pads and/or synchronizer).
Simply continue to lengthen the rod until the transmission will slide into first gear smoothly while stopped. At this point, test drives the car to fine-tune the adjustment to get the necessary release for higher RPM shifting.
DO NOT OVER-ADJUST THE ROD, or adjust it based on pedal height. If you adjust it to position the pedal at the factory height, you risk over-extending (thus damaging) the pressure plate.
FULL INSTRUCTIONS HERE - www.tickperformance.com/conte... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Saved our ass getting ready for Sema and ran in to clutch issues. This fixed it 🙏🏼
I can’t thank you guys enough for making the most recent f body videos . Helps a ton hearing from people who actually designed it themselves!
I've had you MC installed for something like 10 years now. I just replaced my clutch and found this vid to make sure I remembered how to adjust it properly... this vid is a lot easier to follow than your explanations on LS1tech back in the day😅😅.
This will always be a #1 recommendation for first mods on these older t56 cars. Awesome product!
Bought mine years and years ago and still going strong. Great product.
I installed your master cylinder and billet shifter in my '02 WS6 last year. I rarely drive the car and recently noticed that I was grinding going into 3rd at WOT. I progressively lengthened the rod 3 turn, one turn at a time, until it now shifts smoothly and quickly without any grinding at 6500-6800 RPMs. The first additional turn allowed it to shift quickly but still ground a little. The second allowed it to shift smoothly up to about 6K RPMs. Finally, the 3rd turn allowed it to shift smoothly and quickly at redline.
Thank you!!
I don’t want to sound selfish but something tells me this was made bc of me 😂😂😂 I did figure it out after all. Phenomenal product and great ppl. Recommend this on every 4th Gen M6 F-Body.
Agreed. Killer mod
I got your complete ls7 clutch kit for my gto but it didn’t come with any instructions. I’m curious what the preload or clearance is supposed to be for the slave?
installed the tick performance mc and can’t seem to get it adjusted enough to go in gear still rolls a bit forward i heard something about f bodys having a sensor in clutch pedalthat allows you to go in gear?
This video is great and very detailed. I was not aware of the rev test etc.
I have that almost exact master from another company, except it's a third gen with a TKO and a lakewood bellhousing (uses a shift fork and external slave). My stock config would be very difficult to get into gear intermittently. Most obvious when i was driving for a while. I installed the new kit, and extended the rod until it went into gear easily. Drove the car 100 miles or so and was thrilled with the shifting and pedal height. 2 days later i backed the car out and, besides reverse (unsynchronized) it would not go into gear. Any suggestions on what might cause this? I intend to adjust the pedal up a bit more, but somehow it changed.
You probably have air in the lines or you're having a clutch failure. Also check your lockout solenoid if you have one
Also, ensure that you have the locking nuts tight against the adjustment bar so it doesn't rotate. Locktite can help keep it in place
Can you come over and help me do this. I’ll have cold beers on stand by, and neighbours don’t mind burn outs.
I just put one in my gto. New and it's leaking fluid out of the back into the car after 4 miles
That car sounds awesome!!!
What's the engine set up?
Lt or LS??
LT
I thought the rear wheels had to be off the ground while doing the rev test?
Does this apply to c5 vette as well? I have messed with mine so many times and can’t find a sweet spot. Now I’m having trouble getting into 2nd and 3 when I launch in the current adjustment. Feels great driving normal though.
Yes same for c5. Did you change anything else... clutch or slave?
@@tooslo5oh44 both
Good to know, doing mine as well. Was never adjusted when installed, catches super high
C6 Z06 here with a ZR1 twin disc clutch, ZR1 slave, and a Tick Master cylinder. My car wants to roll forward when going into first gear. Does the rod need to be shortened or lengthened? It shifts a little notchy so I’m thinking it’s not set correctly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have the same problem. 08 Z06. Car does not want to shift at 6,000 rpm. So I don’t even bother going to 7,000 rpm. I feel that the master cylinder rod is adjusted to where it needs to be. (Just by the feel of it). But I don’t believe I am getting all the air out of the cylinder. For whatever reason these things do not bleed easily. I’m starting to think dam near impossible
Are you threading that rod clockwise or counterclockwise? And does the nut tighten against the clevis or the end of the threaded rod closer to the master cylinder?
Both nuts lock in against the long sleeve nut
Also would like to know..did you ever get an answer or figure it out?
The car still moved on your last rev test.
I saw that!
Just a tip, stop repeating yourself.