Fill level - I get that the Toyota manual specifies the quantity and spec for oil, but I was taught that the top bung is for filling (where there is one), the bottom bung is for draining and this side bung on gearboxes and diffs is the fill level - fill to the level where where it just drains out of the side hole because this hole is positioned by the design engineers to 1. Get you to the correct oil level while avoiding risk of overfilling, and 2. Let you poke your finger in as a quick way to check the level and condition of the oil in the field/workshop where you wouldn't always have the manual handy. Remember, gearbox and diff design came long before you could look stuff up on the Internet so there needed to be a simple way to get the level right. Not a criticism, simple "how to" vids like this are the best part of CZcams and knowing how much oil you need is pretty handy info before you start the job.
well done, I would caution anyone that it is important to use a 10 mm hex instead of a T-55 Hex as it fits the drain and filler plugs better and is less likely to strip. (TIP - use a hammer to gently pound in the 10 mm socket and ensure it fits snug, use a breaker bar or a piece of pipe to fit over your ratchet to allow for more leverage when trying to break the plugs free.
Off camera I tried that with the 10mm hex, but it still didn't budge. I agree with you that the 10mm should be the first effort, but T-55 got it right out for me.
@@TunnelVision4x4I hope people realize that the only reason the torx worked better in your situation is because the wrong bit was used prior and had screwed up the plugs.
After perusing another CZcams video, on doing the Tacoma front end diff drain and fill, I want to thank you for keeping your language clean and family friendly. Very helpful video. Thanks.
To get the drain plug loose , I ended up using a hydraulic car jack under the handle of my wrench. It almost lifted my truck off the ground before it broke loose.....I went to several mechanic shops , and those guys were so cool to let me use their own snap on Ingersoll rand industrial impact drivers, and still couldn't bust it loose. I went home trying to think of everything and finally came up with the idea of a floor jack......Worked great , and I soaked it for at least 24 hrs with penetrating oil. KY didnt work at all.JK The Lucas breaker oil worked well. Still needed the jack though. I put some ANTI seize on the threads before I tightened it back up...Lets see if that anti seize worked , hoping it did for my next fluid change.
Take it to the carwash and hard spray all you driveline plugs before servicing. Its so easy to get debris into a case or engine when changing fluids. And the dirt always wins that duel
When breaking nuts/bolts loose, always position yourself to pull on the ratchet instead of pushing. Make things easier on yourself and reduce the chance of busting your knuckles.
A tip folks. If you spray some penetrating oil on the plug and whack it squarely with a hammer,, the penetrant will channel thru the threads and allow you to loosen it easier. Vibration is the key !!
Looks like you got a set of Goodyear wrangler Duratracks love them tires put them on all of my 4runners the Wrangler Ultra terrain are good tires also @0:22
It is my understanding that when a diff gets over filled it creates more pressure that can lead to leaks. If you park on a flat surface overfilling is somewhat difficult to do in the first place. This is because you fill until the fluid drains out of the fill hole.
I used a large breaker bar and the torque was too much and was striping the bolt. Went to harbor freight picked up an air impact gun with hardened impact rated hex sockets and it took it off no problem. The impacts help break it loose.
"why is this so hard?" haha! that happened to me yesterday! Except I used a pry bar and completely stripped it...... Got a new plug $17 from the dealership, plus some tools to drill it out and will hopefully get it done tomorrow.... :(
Dont ever put your hand so close to the socket. If that would have broke loose, your thumb or fingers would get smashed. Use a breaker bar or a piece of pipe on the end of the ratchet, to break bolts loose. Nice video.
Yeah I hear you. It's just a tricky bolt in general. I have known a few people who have had theirs seize to the point they needed to tack weld a socket or nut onto it to get it off.
I have Tacoma 2016 off road TRD Manual transmission I'm asking which kind of oil differential front and rear can I use for my Tacoma and also of oil of manual transmission
***Warning***That drain plug on the front diff is a whore, I stripped it out almost completely trying to loosen it. Stop what you are doing and get a new plug. PB blaster twice 2 days before. Its just a crap design with dissimilar metals, and a little 10mm hex key and a huge plug. So if you have a little left to grip the trick is to lightly tap the back of the head of the breaker bar with a very small 6 oz ballpien hammer while slowly gently loosening it. Then after a few minutes it breaks the seal you smash your knuckles but you did it. It got a little nickel anti seize before being reinstalled and torqued to spec.
Well,, either hit the gym or get a pipe and slip it over the wrench like I do, lol Always make sure the hex key is bottomed out in the plug. Use a hammer to tap it in and get it fully seated
That would be a little on the high side. Not horrible, but I would suggest jacking up the passenger side of the car a little and letting a little extra drain out. Just under the bottom of the fill hole is ideal.
Mr. LuvaLuva 1 second ago To get the drain plug loose , I ended up using a hydraulic car jack under the handle of my wrench. It almost lifted my truck off the ground before it broke loose.....I went to several mechanic shops , and those guys were so cool to let me use their own snap on Ingersoll rand industrial impact drivers, and still couldn't bust it loose. I went home trying to think of everything and finally came up with the idea of a floor jack......Worked great , and I soaked it for at least 24 hrs with penetrating oil. KY didnt work at all.JK The Lucas breaker oil worked well. Still needed the jack though. I put some ANTI seize on the threads before I tightened it back up...Lets see if that anti seize worked , hoping it did for my next fluid change
@@estebancamachomartinez724 I should have said, "the plug should be upgraded to a magnetic plug", to help collect metal shavings. However, thank you for pointing out this over-site on my part. I agree, changing to a normal plug would be silly. :)
@@rockbay79 but I believe that the drain plug already comes with a magnet. I changed my front diff oil at 15k and it was still clear, bit of shavings but better to take that abrasive out and refresh the oil in there. I did not replace the copper gasket, I should off but it's not leaking 🤣
next time try using a cordless impact driver. it'll take the bolt right off. most time with the wrench or ratchet you'll end up stripping the bolt like how you did. REMEMBER WORK SMARTER NOT HARDER. also try not to used the 3/8 drive used a 1/2 drive for hard and big bolt.
menger vang my drain plug was so stuck in there that even with 2 days of PB soaking my brushless impact wouldn't budge it! I used my longest ratchet and that worked better
I went to at least 3 shops in town and used the mechanics snap ons , Ingersoll rand air cat etc impact drivers with over 1300 ft lbs. of reverse torque and couldn't budge it. So saying something without doing it yourself is useless....Floor Jack worked with wrench....
Fill level - I get that the Toyota manual specifies the quantity and spec for oil, but I was taught that the top bung is for filling (where there is one), the bottom bung is for draining and this side bung on gearboxes and diffs is the fill level - fill to the level where where it just drains out of the side hole because this hole is positioned by the design engineers to 1. Get you to the correct oil level while avoiding risk of overfilling, and 2. Let you poke your finger in as a quick way to check the level and condition of the oil in the field/workshop where you wouldn't always have the manual handy. Remember, gearbox and diff design came long before you could look stuff up on the Internet so there needed to be a simple way to get the level right. Not a criticism, simple "how to" vids like this are the best part of CZcams and knowing how much oil you need is pretty handy info before you start the job.
well done, I would caution anyone that it is important to use a 10 mm hex instead of a T-55 Hex as it fits the drain and filler plugs better and is less likely to strip. (TIP - use a hammer to gently pound in the 10 mm socket and ensure it fits snug, use a breaker bar or a piece of pipe to fit over your ratchet to allow for more leverage when trying to break the plugs free.
Off camera I tried that with the 10mm hex, but it still didn't budge. I agree with you that the 10mm should be the first effort, but T-55 got it right out for me.
@@TunnelVision4x4I hope people realize that the only reason the torx worked better in your situation is because the wrong bit was used prior and had screwed up the plugs.
Toyota wanted 400 to do all three services for my 2010 Tacoma. I got 6 quarts of Mobil I for 56.00. AND DID IT MYSELF.VERY EASY TO DO.
@James Williams probably 16/hr
I'm doing mine right now, ha !
After perusing another CZcams video, on doing the Tacoma front end diff drain and fill, I want to thank you for keeping your language clean and family friendly. Very helpful video. Thanks.
To get the drain plug loose , I ended up using a hydraulic car jack under the handle of my wrench. It almost lifted my truck off the ground before it broke loose.....I went to several mechanic shops , and those guys were so cool to let me use their own snap on Ingersoll rand industrial impact drivers, and still couldn't bust it loose. I went home trying to think of everything and finally came up with the idea of a floor jack......Worked great , and I soaked it for at least 24 hrs with penetrating oil. KY didnt work at all.JK The Lucas breaker oil worked well. Still needed the jack though. I put some ANTI seize on the threads before I tightened it back up...Lets see if that anti seize worked , hoping it did for my next fluid change.
Take it to the carwash and hard spray all you driveline plugs before servicing. Its so easy to get debris into a case or engine when changing fluids. And the dirt always wins that duel
When breaking nuts/bolts loose, always position yourself to pull on the ratchet instead of pushing. Make things easier on yourself and reduce the chance of busting your knuckles.
Thanks, time to learn these pretty simple things and avoid throwing money away.
A tip folks. If you spray some penetrating oil on the plug and whack it squarely with a hammer,, the penetrant will channel thru the threads and allow you to loosen it easier. Vibration is the key !!
use a longer handle & say a prayer b4 every job
@L. W You leftists are so tolerant.
suggest to make sure that your hand/arm is 90 degree with break bar to max torque when losing the drain plug.
You should have the year in the title or description
100% agree, a T55 bit fits WAYYY better than the "proper" 10mm.
Looks like you got a set of Goodyear wrangler Duratracks love them tires put them on all of my 4runners the Wrangler Ultra terrain are good tires also @0:22
Why is under filling better then over filling the diff ? You said that at the end of the video 🤔
It is my understanding that when a diff gets over filled it creates more pressure that can lead to leaks. If you park on a flat surface overfilling is somewhat difficult to do in the first place. This is because you fill until the fluid drains out of the fill hole.
Like your videos. Try Master Blaster 15 min before pulling those plugs.
Funny, mine was completely frozen too. I had to use a pump to suck out the oil from the fill plug.
Good video thank. Recommend to use a breaking bar to remove difficult plugs other wise can damage your wrench
What year tacoma are you working on?
Pulling is way better than pushing
Agreed.
Hit the Allen wrench socket in with a hammer before wrenching to bottom it out first. Then get proper breaker bar.
I used a large breaker bar and the torque was too much and was striping the bolt. Went to harbor freight picked up an air impact gun with hardened impact rated hex sockets and it took it off no problem. The impacts help break it loose.
You're good guy. Thanks so much, about all your clip for tacoma maintenance
24 feb 2019 2:21 pm est:
front-engine-tacoma has transmission separated from front-differential,does not have transaxel.
thanks.
How many miles did you have on the front diff fluid? I just changed mine I had 13000 miles on it and it as dark as your oil.
A lead pipe would have helped with that drain plug👍 or a breaker bar.
Thats what she said
Thank you for the video, good advice
Why is it better to underfill then overfill?
Pressure.
I sick my pinky and i was about the tip off...good enough?
On the level there's really no way to overfill diffs, that's why the fill hole is where it is.
great video, good advice to save miney.
2:55 I did too.
Nice video bro
Good vid... That front diff drain bolt is a bitch to say the least. I swore up and down that damn thing was welded on the first time I did mine.
Muy facil y bien explicado. Edgardo sw4 2006 Buenos Aires Arg.
"why is this so hard?" haha! that happened to me yesterday! Except I used a pry bar and completely stripped it...... Got a new plug $17 from the dealership, plus some tools to drill it out and will hopefully get it done tomorrow.... :(
17 bucks for a plug?-dealerships rob people
Dont ever put your hand so close to the socket. If that would have broke loose, your thumb or fingers would get smashed. Use a breaker bar or a piece of pipe on the end of the ratchet, to break bolts loose. Nice video.
I will suggest just to use a regular braking bar you work too hard man it's too easy
Yeah I hear you. It's just a tricky bolt in general. I have known a few people who have had theirs seize to the point they needed to tack weld a socket or nut onto it to get it off.
I have Tacoma 2016 off road TRD
Manual transmission
I'm asking which kind of oil differential front and rear can I use for my Tacoma and also of oil of manual transmission
Before I get started, do I need to drop skid plate or just take driver's side tire/wheel off?
Take the skid plate off. If it's the stock one it only takes a minute and would make life much easier.
Try getting a 1/2 drive ratchet setup
***Warning***That drain plug on the front diff is a whore, I stripped it out almost completely trying to loosen it. Stop what you are doing and get a new plug. PB blaster twice 2 days before. Its just a crap design with dissimilar metals, and a little 10mm hex key and a huge plug. So if you have a little left to grip the trick is to lightly tap the back of the head of the breaker bar with a very small 6 oz ballpien hammer while slowly gently loosening it. Then after a few minutes it breaks the seal you smash your knuckles but you did it. It got a little nickel anti seize before being reinstalled and torqued to spec.
Where did you buy the hand pump and do you recommend it?
Go to Harbor Freight for the pump
what kind of fluid did you buy i have a 2011 tacoma im about to do this please help and thank you for sharing this helpful video
Well,, either hit the gym or get a pipe and slip it over the wrench like I do, lol
Always make sure the hex key is bottomed out in the plug. Use a hammer to tap it in and get it fully seated
Cool thanks for the tip. I'd kill to be back in the shape I was in when I filmed this. 5 Years ago.
Anyway I can get the drain plug out now? Because I stripped mine.
Try welding the 10mm in there i guess and leave it attached?
What happens if you fill until the fill plug hole level? Is that under fill or over filled?
That would be a little on the high side. Not horrible, but I would suggest jacking up the passenger side of the car a little and letting a little extra drain out. Just under the bottom of the fill hole is ideal.
That is fine to fill until it comes out of the fill plug hole.
Using a longer ratchet would also help
Mr. LuvaLuva
1 second ago
To get the drain plug loose , I ended up using a hydraulic car jack under the handle of my wrench. It almost lifted my truck off the ground before it broke loose.....I went to several mechanic shops , and those guys were so cool to let me use their own snap on Ingersoll rand industrial impact drivers, and still couldn't bust it loose. I went home trying to think of everything and finally came up with the idea of a floor jack......Worked great , and I soaked it for at least 24 hrs with penetrating oil. KY didnt work at all.JK The Lucas breaker oil worked well. Still needed the jack though. I put some ANTI seize on the threads before I tightened it back up...Lets see if that anti seize worked , hoping it did for my next fluid change
well shit, why didn't I think of flushing some old fluid out the diff with new fluid...
Really? Would it kill you to tell us the year / generation?
use a pipe for leverage
why are you doing info video`s? just curious.
How many miles were on the front diff with that fluid change?
I wear my sunglasses at night, so I can... Drain my diff 😃
Puts up a video and doesn't acknowledge a single comment. 👎👎👎
2:56
What year is that? My drain plug is there but fill is located elsewhere
2012
How many miles on ur truck
That drain plug should have been replaced with a new one.
Not really, maybe the copper gasket but not the plug.
@@estebancamachomartinez724 I should have said, "the plug should be upgraded to a magnetic plug", to help collect metal shavings. However, thank you for pointing out this over-site on my part. I agree, changing to a normal plug would be silly. :)
@@rockbay79 but I believe that the drain plug already comes with a magnet. I changed my front diff oil at 15k and it was still clear, bit of shavings but better to take that abrasive out and refresh the oil in there. I did not replace the copper gasket, I should off but it's not leaking 🤣
next time try using a cordless impact driver. it'll take the bolt right off. most time with the wrench or ratchet you'll end up stripping the bolt like how you did. REMEMBER WORK SMARTER NOT HARDER. also try not to used the 3/8 drive used a 1/2 drive for hard and big bolt.
menger vang my drain plug was so stuck in there that even with 2 days of PB soaking my brushless impact wouldn't budge it! I used my longest ratchet and that worked better
I went to at least 3 shops in town and used the mechanics snap ons , Ingersoll rand air cat etc impact drivers with over 1300 ft lbs. of reverse torque and couldn't budge it. So saying something without doing it yourself is useless....Floor Jack worked with wrench....
What year is this ?
Truck is 2012, but would essentially be the same for 2005-2015
@@TunnelVision4x4 mine is 2001
Die not use torx
It's not a differential
D
Z