Ignition coil-module test with test light (a free SD Premium video)
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- čas přidán 16. 11. 2011
- This lecture applies to ALL ignition coils and computer controlled, ground side switched circuits. Join me and my class at Rosedale Technical College as we learn how to test an ignition coil for what I call "control". This video is an example of what is available on ScannerDanner Premium. I have a lecture for every single page of my book, plus countless case studies to help reinforce the subject. (14 day free trial)
Engine Performance Diagnostics chapter 22 page 8
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• (Chapter 22) No Spark ...
For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
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On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
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Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
After 8 yrs... this man charged my career
Thank you my friend
hands down the best teacher and instructor out great minds think alike
Never a disapointment.
You are an awsome Instructor....
Great tutorial, THANK YOU so much for posting! I will use this knowledge today. Bought a 2012 VW CC on auction, had to replace the harness, repair the engine, reprogram the key. The car doesn't start, cranks but no spark. This video is exactly what I needed to troubleshoot.
Glad it helped, if you get stuck, I am hear and I read every comment.
Good Evening ScannerDanner 🙏 ✨
Have a great day, take care ScannerDanner God bless you
Great tutorial thank you 👍
Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
That's great! Thank you for sharing that with me. Comments like yours is what this is all about. It helps me to know I am doing something right.
I've seen that before, but it was blowing the main fuse for the coil circuit. I've never seen one short out and cause a no-start without blowing the fuse. Glad you fixed it my friend.
I will get u a voltage reading tonight. Thanks for your help so far!!!
Awesome video.I solved a problem on Renault Scenic 1.6 16v engine it was a bad ecm driver and 2 coil over plugs didn't work no 1&4.Just watching your video I was able to determine the problem.After fixing that issue car had a problem with a MAP sensor the signal wire was shorted to ground and this was possible to fix thanks to your videos.Thank you and keep up the good work.
I figured out my no start issue;it turned out 2 b the coil control module.Thank you for your vids they helped out a lot and your info.!
No, this model has an external "power transistor" (what its called on the diagram). It would be basically an igniter. If you are not losing pulse on coil (-) then it is not the pick-up coil. It is either igniter, wiring or computer.
Good info. I'm looking forward to the actual test video.
This is so helpful. My c4 lt1 won’t fire. I think it’s my coil. Had a faint small flicker on the control wire. Had a big flicker on positive side.
Ive been stuck on this paige, keep up the good work
Feel free to ask any questions pertaining to the video. I'll do my best to answer
For sure, I need to do that. I do have some info. in Section 22 page 18 and 19 on a 3-wire COP on a Honda.
You can trigger these coils but I hesitate to tell you to use a test light because the transistor base circuit voltage is typically only 4 volts on these. I have done it without an issue using a test light to 12v, I'm just not 100% sure that you would not hurt the driver in the coil yet. but I will keep you posted of a better way
thank you very much for your time and your reply,i ve just subbed
It could be the coil even though resistance shows good, but it could also be a problem on the primary side. If it is a point type ignition system you could have the wrong air gap set or you could have a ballast resistor problem. If it has an electronic ignition you could have a bad module or pick-up coil problem. As for scope testing, just keep watching my videos, you will see the many uses for it. It will do more than you think.
how do determine correct coil hookup on a 89 nissan pickup with the 2.4L 4 cylinder motor with 8 sparkplugs
hey Paul why is it that when you let coolant out of a dodge or Chrysler radiator then refill an bleed the system the fans cycle perfectly once or twice
Hi Paul Thank you for your vids.
I have a 1996 ford escort 1.6 16v zetec that doesn't start.
I check for spark on the HD leads and there's no spark.
I checked for injector pulse and I do have a pulse. so I tested for spark on my coils with a test light and I have a very weak spark. so i replaced the coil and I still have a weak spark on my coils. I measured the voltage to the positive terminal pin on the coils (10.0v) so i checked the grounding side of the coil with a test light and the light does flicker but its very dime compared to the ground side of injector plug. I checked the continuity from the PCM to the coil wiring plug and its all good. can this be a bad pcm grounder driver? Thank you from Spain Tony
I don't have 1 specifically for Toyotas however the input wires you mentioned are just simply variable reluctance sensors and they are all tested the same way. I do have some videos on variable reluctance sensor testing and also how to bypass them. of hand, I don't remember the title names, just search variable reluctance sensor on my channel page
yes im happy hahaha i can modify the engine now.hey man i was watching your last video when you diagnose the lean condition without crawl under the car,thats the way !! i see you have great tools,the inductive amp meter is great ,,i need to get me 1 of those and a scan tool.thnks for your time,cause i charge for my time too,but its very kind of you to reply.
cheers
What does the test light do when connected to coil positive compared to coil negative during cranking?
Great vdo. i learn alot keep up the good work. is there a vdo where you testing the input to the ecm. like the toyotas. they have a NE , G1 G2 AND G WIRE.
Thanks for sharing .
Hi , ScannerDanner, I have a 97 jeep grand cherokee, it runs but I have a dtc-p0351 primary coil circuit, have already replaced coil once still same code, how could I test this
In this vid you have a no light scenario and you said a possible problem would be a short to ground in the control wire or a driver shorted to ground. Would your test light (set to neg) light before the short in the wire? The circuit is on all the time right?
When connecting grounded test light on control side of primary coil, why aren't you charging up coil? There isn't that much resistance in test light to prevent this. Is there?
In my mind, I see a path to ground which would energize primary coil.
Please help me understand this.
VERY GOOD
Good info
Makes sense its very consistent at doing this. After cool down starts right up. The"power transistor" seems very hard to find and the computer. Maybe could be changed over to non computer vacuum type distributor
What is your injector resistance when it is hot and shuts down. They should be 12.6 ohms each.
One shorted injector will shut this car down on this design.
Search "shorted injectors" on my channel page. I have a video on this engine and I show how to troubleshoot it.
Yes pulse as in the coil (-) is pulsing the test light then loses spark after short warm up. Not sure where module is located in distributor or next to coil. thanks for the quick response
Good Job
I have no power from the coil and no pulse at the injectors. Could this be a bad ignition switch??
now engine died in running moving ,died no start ??any advice
I didn't look at all responses and your teaching this is great but the vast majority of coils will make a spark just not enough to jump a typical test mock up or spark tester. They will make something all be it a tiny spark a sliver of an arc. But fantastic work !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Agree 100% however this video was more about "control"
In other lectures I talk about what you refer to and have a few case studies in my book on this very issue.
Also I have a video on an older honda accord with weak spark.
ScannerDanner
Okay, I don't like the 8.6 ohm one but as you said with it unplugged it still will not start. How about injector pulse then? I am guessing it is also good when not starting?
Next is to check both 3x and 1x crank signals during the no start. I have seen a weak hall effect magnet cause some goofy waveforms on these. You will have spark but it will not be the correct coil. Not sure if this is going on or not.
Also the ECM itself it suspect on this model. Do a tap test on it.
Control wire & negative wire light up from the coil but when turning key ON the light goes off on both wires? What does that mean?
not sure how to PM but yes it is on top the coil Standard Motor Product LX1001 Ignition Control Module not sure if something could be substituted like the GM hei on the MX3 works great the vac dist may be more reliable since this was the dark days for computers
Quick question SD,1990 3300 when engine is up to temp then shut engine off it starts right back up,wait 10 min. later;no start let cool all the down then starts up.I have done all the readings by ohms/amp testing could it be the oil pressure switch or something im over looking?
I replaced the crank sensor,pcm,already.I had that problem before with tapping on the power box,third ECM in now.The ECM gets hot that you can barely touch it n the coil control mod you can't even touch it;its so hot,I think its time to Scrap it for what its worth.The ele. fan kicked on tonite while I was running it and the car shut off at idle;that to me seems like another ECM,It started right back up though?
@CoolasIce2 Watch my subaru no start video, I am using a test light in that one
the values from my k12v ign coil (5months old) are correct comparing with the factory specs
and my 76 toyota doesnt start,,cranks but wont start.Even the values from the resistance of the internal coils are correct is it possible the coil is fried or useless..To know is the coil or the wiring can i use a OSCILOSCOPE? to measure the kw from the 2nd coil o r theres a cheap way?
HI PUAL what about coil on plug with 3 wire,because my understanding those have module on plug also one a the wires GD PW n PCM Trigger or PCM input? can you make a video in this types!!. And is IN your eBOOk,if it is, in what page??? THANK YOU soo MUCH..
"...this sounds a lot like a section 3, doesn`t it?"...but, so far, i havent seen you go onto the ground side-switched solenoid`s control wire with the test light connected to battery negative...(except for energizing the low current solenoids, by bypassing the switch)...i mean, this method seems even faster(e.g. checking both feed and control on one t-pin only, with the connector plugged in, etc...i am not sure, just guessing)...so, why u didn`t do it in such fashion for, say, fuel injector testing?
Fuel,I spray 2+2 in intake then it will run?
When you use a test light can it be a regular test light or does it have to be a special one for testing computer circuits?
What are you missing when it doesn't start? Spark or Fuel?
On my 1998 chevy 4.3 v6 i tested the ICM thats on the coil and has 4 wires first ones 12v with the key on. and the signal wire at the bottom is allso 12v with just the key on?> the groinds good but should there be 12v on the signal wire thats supose to be 5v im not getting any comunacation from the ECM i cant even throw a code unpluging the maf sensor. while cranking. its a no start . i replaced the engine with a new long block and every thing worked fine now no start.
Give me voltage readings on all 4 module wires, plugged in and back-probing during cranking and I need to know wire colors!
Hi Scannerdanner
I love this video and have learnt alot but I al having problems with my mercedes 320 sl; I am getting no spark on 3 qnd 4 which run off one of the coils zith the engine running I have a constant light on poss and neg on all off the coils but no spark on one off the coils; I know you qre going to say I need a new coil but I have just put new coils on all and it is just the same; I am confused because if I was getting flickering on the coils that are working I would at least know that I was on to somthing but all qre giving constant light on poss and neg; please can you help
So test light is constantly lit on coil (-) (test light connected to ground) on the none working coil?
It should be pulsing on the working coils.
well i didnt use a test light. i put the postiv probe from my multitester and i got 12v with ign on and then 8 to 9 v when it cranks ..so i have positive but i have misfire cause the carburetor backfires..I did the spark test and the is very weak and sometimes fire and sometimes dont ,i presume is the coil but the coil resistance(2) is correct with the specs.i want to buy a osciloscope but i dont know,what other use the scope will have.cause is kind of expensive
Im working on a 1999 gmc jimmy with a 4.3. I have no spark from the coil. I have changed the crank sensor, coil, control module and the cam sensor in the distributor. I still have NO spark!!! what else could it be????? The test light at the coil plugs shows that the negative side is pulsing and the positive side flickers while cranking.
are you sure the pulsing on coil- looks different from the pulsing on coil+?
so are you going to SHOW us where to plug in the test light?
hi do you have a video doing that . I got not spark Honda accord ex v6 99 and I got a new spark plugs and weird and new distributor cap and rotors
did you get this figured out? I have no videos on Honda's with no spark.
+ScannerDanner yes I did I fix it , it was the coil
Have 85 Sentra after short warm up shuts down no spark coil - has pulse tried new coil still shuts down after short run
Yes. There is a difference. The negative side flashes on and off. The positive side only goes dim and then bright fast.
I am a little worried about coil +, you may have a supply problem (resistance).
That test light should not be getting that dim on coil+, unless your battery is weak and you've been cranking it for a long time. What you need to do is a voltage measurement on coil+ during cranking, the problem is a regular voltmeter is not fast enough, and will average the voltage drops. IF you have a voltmeter, give me a voltage measurement on coil+ during cranking, it will not be as good as a scope but may tell us something.
The reading on the possitive side of the ciol before ctanking is 11.80 volts. while cranking it drops to 10.45 volts.
Does that give you any ideas?????
doug dickerson
that sounds normal
Do you have injector pulse?
ScannerDanner I will check!!!
doug dickerson Ok, I pulled the plug off the central injection system. There are 6 pink wires that have voltage when the key is on. When I crank the engine, none of the wires make the test light pulse!!! There is no voltage at any time on the other wires on the plug.
So, what does this mean?????????
Paul help me out with this, I have a 1998 Grand Cherokee 4.0 Laredo Jeep, no spark , I test the coil with volt meter reads Primary, 1.1 and Secondary reads 12.72.... the specification in the book for this coil is Primary 0.96 to 1.18 ohms and Sec. 11,300 to 15,300 ohms, is this a good coil or bad? thank you in advance.
Are these resistance readings? Forget that test, it's not accurate most times.
Do the test light tests I described in this video and report what it does.
@@ScannerDanner I did this reading with the coil out the jeep., I haven't done the light test cause I went to buy that T PIN and they keep saying its in order, soon as I get it I will try what you prescribe in the video. i'm new to this but I will learn this because i'm determine. and I been sitting here waiting for your response and wow that was quick, cause I know you are a busy man, I didn't get that book cause I didn't think I can understand this but I am going to order it if it means it will help you out. and in the long run I am not going to give up so it will help me out in understanding this. where do I go to get this at www.scannerdanner.com.?
@@jeremiah1797 you can use a straightened paper clip, just don't let it touch anything else. BTW The heart is more deceitful than all else for sure!! (Jeremiah 17:9)
Is it wrong to assume we are brothers in Christ? Either way, I will help you and this is independent of anything you would buy from me. I don't need your money to help you.
@@jeremiah1797 this is the test I want you to do next czcams.com/video/TXKf96wqaoU/video.html
I have tested the injectors when no start is present and engine is up to temp;12.6 ohms on 5 injectors,1 has 8.6 ohms,unplugged that one and no start still.Amp clamped while cranking and all is .5,.6 just cranking though
would that work on a Honda accord ex v6 99
absolutely
Hi Paul! Great class . I'm William Colon. My 8 year old stole my name from CZcams . At the end of the video you said a shorted primary could be mistaken for no control on the test light. Could we unplug the coil , then put the test light
To battery pos and do the test again and check for control
I have a solus edge brand new scanner out do you know anything about it?
I am directing all help requests to my forum. Sign up (it's free) and create a new post. Be sure to add a name under "alias" as this is the name that will appear in the post.
Here is the link to the forum.
www.scannerdanner.com/ForumRetrieve.aspx?ForumID=3226
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Get out of here Sumaira
Do you mean it has pulse as in the coil (-) is pulsing the test light? And you are losing spark?
If so you may have a faulty module/igniter. Watch this video "1988 Honda Accord misfire case study"
then the fan will run and want shut off until you cut car off the restart it will cycle twice on an off fine but the 3 time it want to continue to run until you shut off car again.
Scannerdanner i want one of your books
Thank you! It is available on my website at www.scannerdanner.com
Don't do that. The ECM controls timing on this engine and does a way better job than a vacuum/centrifugal device can do. From what I can gather, it is on the ignition coil. At least that is what Mitchell says. Take a picture of your coil and send it to me. Send me a pm and I'll give you my email address
No dash lights, no Crank but I can hot start the car but not from the key
Does it run or only turn over when you jump the starter?
You are going to need good service information and a diagram on your starting system as well as your instrument cluster. Here is a link to the DIY version of the same service info I use. For $20 you can purchase access to your car and all the service info and diagrams for a month. eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
guess what ,it was the f"#%%%%% condenser, with the new cables is smooth
is the 1st time i see a condenser doesnt allow starting
Runs just off spray.
I have the 89 s10 pickup that won't start. all I get is a code 12. how do I tell the ecm I don't care if you aren't receiving a reference signal. start right now! stop turning the fuel pump off! I went to school for this. I am tired of hanging parts. all the engineers need to be arrested. They are NOT worth what they are paid!!!
I replied to you on a previous comment today...reply to that one and we'll go from there
ScannerDanner can't find it
Resistances will lie to you.
Voltage will not
voltage will too on an unloaded circuit
voltage will too on an unloaded circuit