I really like the way you explain stuff. You're clear, take your time and you deliver the information in a way that's easy to follow. I'm 72 and have been a professional photographer for 50 years. I know how to shoot and get the shots needed. But the technology has become sooo sophisticated since I bought my Canon 5D. It's like a whole new world. I've watched and rewatched many different video creators talk about the A7 IV since I bought it and you're the best! Too many are all about personality and entertainment. They talk fast and, hey, we just want to understand, not be entertained. I'm grateful to find your channel. Keep em coming. You're making a difference! Thanks.
Thank you so much for the kind words. I do make an effort to try to explain and demonstrate things in a way that a range of people can understand. Thank you for recognizing that. I have much more content on the way! Thank you again!
This is a master class on how to set up your focus for events. Really great setup. I have been working on creating a setup like yours where you can grab focus really easy but also pen point it when needed without going into a menu. I've got mine setup the opposite of yours where I let the camera find the subject on it's own then over ride if needed. I didn't know about the register zone + AF and really like the elegancy of that solution. Thanks. This video should be named don't miss focus again.
Thank you very much for the deep dive in to what could be a very confusing area. Great work Erik! I loved this video as much as I liked your previous one, or even better. Keep up the good work.
Great video! I’ve now set my AF recall to Wide, and keep my camera on tracking expanded spot at most times. This lets me normally be in a high precision focusing mode for choosing specific faces or objects (I use focus and recompose with tracking), but by pressing the back AF-on button I can instantly swap to Wide with Eye AF for when something is unfolding instantly in front of me that I don’t want to chance missing. Very helpful tip.
Great information, thanks for sharing. I'm still experimenting with finding the right settings. I'm coming from GH5, the A7IV is taking some getting used to in regard to trusting the AF system.
After almost a full year of exclusively using BBAF I too have enabled focus with half press, agreed there's really no reason to disable this now with how the other buttons override it. Nice video, I'd also be curious with this camera how well animal eye AF works in video mode.
Only one reason for me. Landscapes where you don't want the focus changing, think HDR merge type shoots or where you are really being exacting about the depth of field.
Erik, great video. Thank you. One point that I have seen that is somewhat in contradiction to your view on the AF responsiveness: I have seen a lot of other photographers discuss the fact that ‘5’ responsiveness is indeed for a lot of change and fast moving subjects, but more so that you want the AF to be responsive to change from one subject to another. For example, if you quickly wanted to switch one football player to the next. Additionally, the ‘locked on’ is equally as ‘fast’ and can follow fast moving objects, but it wouldn’t be quick or fast to move from one subject to another. It will do its best to stick what it was originally tracking. I felt you were suggesting that locked on or a lower value responsiveness setting was slower to focus which isn’t the case. (I hope that makes sense). Keen to hear your views on this. Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment. Technically the answer is both. The AF tracking sensitivity in stills determines how the AF reacts to change. Whether it’s changing to the subject it perceives to be the dominant subject in the scene, or if it’s detecting the change in distance of a moving subject. To the camera it’s the same thing. In video you have the option to specifically control the subject shift sensitivity, but in stills you either have to register a face, are use your focus area to limit the subject your camera chooses to focus on. It’s one of the most complicated subjects to dive into, along with exactly how PDAF works, and the correlation between light and the absence of light (phase) that it is detecting.
@@erikdurnall9585 Thanks for the reply. Yes, video is more straight forward. As for stills, I do shoot a lot of kids OzTag and on 5, I can readily jump from one player to the next. On 1, I can follow a player through an entire play. Both are fast, but are different when it comes to switching from one to the other. FYI - I found you on the A7IV fb page. Keep making these videos. I really think there are a lot of people who will learn a lot from you with your detailed presentation style. 👌
Very clear video, thanks. I often use the tracking mode the large frame with face/eye detection. But sometimes the focus is not on where I want to. A solution could be using flexible spot, but using flexible spot and joystick is not easy/quick for me. My question is: When in tracking / large or zone mode on the A7 IV, is it possible to select and maintain a programmed button to get the focus at the center of the frame while keeping the tracking ? (This is possible on Nikon Z6 with the lastest software, this is also possible on the Sony A7 III by progamming a button with the object definition function) But on A7 IV, I only succeeded to program a button that enables to revert from tracking/large mode to standard focus. Unfortunately the standard mode focuses at the center of the frame ,as I want , but only in AFS but not in AFC tracking mode. Thanks for any suggestions.
You can just use any tracking area (maybe large area tracking or zone tracking) as your registered focus area set in the center then assign a button such as your AEL button or AF-On button to Reg. AF Area + AF On.
Thank you for the very informative video, Erik! I have one additional question though that I'm still confused about: What is the different use cases between "Tracking On" vs "Tracking On + AF On"? It seems Tracking already does everything AF On does to me at first?
“Tracking On” only enables Tracking while you hold the button, it doesn’t acquire focus, you would still need to half press the shutter to focus while holding the “Tracking On” button. “Tracking On + AF On” uses your current AF area to acquire focus, then enables tracking and continues to track, essentially performing 3 actions with a single button press.
Hi Erik, Nice job on this. One question, why do you use zone instead of wide when you are using Registered Focus Area? Since you've shown that you cannot move the RFA, I would think that Wide would be more useful since there is no need to move it? I'm guessing that it has to do with avoiding focusing on other people in the scene? Appreciate any advice. I use Wide with one subject and with head/eye AF a large percentage of the time split with using flexible spot-on tracking.
Thanks for the question. I never use wide area. I use a flexible spot and a Zone as my registered AF area. If I need to recompose an image I can use my back button tracking which uses my selected AF area to detect what I want to track and then tracks using wide area tracking. I also have my Eye AF that will detect and track the subject’s eye anywhere in the frame. So technically I always have flexible spot, zone, wide area tracking and eye af available at all times.
nice tuto. I see you have set AF w/shutter ON meaning that you half press shutter to focus and take picture in af-c. you don't use "back button focus with AFON set to AFO. correct ? You are using single point : ok; I know very well eye af : ok ; So now, what is AFON button set to "tracking+AFON" ? How to you stop AF to switch to a kind of af-s to focus on a subject, recompose image as we do easily in back button focus ? Personnally i am using AF w/shutter ON and set AFON to "AF/MF toggle" as i do in video (like jason vong video settings). I have the feeling af/mf toggle is similar to quickly switching to af-s to recompose by stopping pressing afon button. Mark Galler advises to use that AF/MF toggle (but he puts that on lens focus hold button).
There’s never been a time that I couldn’t recompose an image just using the Eye AF or back button tracking. If I need to manually focus, I just switch the MF switch on the lens.
@@erikdurnall9585 if the place you want focused is not the center of the frame, but your point is there, you can focus wherever the point is, reframe by moving the camera, then press the shutter. That's faster than moving the focus point.
@@erikdurnall9585 if I’m doing landscapes or macros that is how I do it, but for me it’s much faster to virtually move the focus spot to the right spot by pointing the camera, pressing the focus button, and then reframing. I learned to do that on a Canon 5D iii, but now with the A7rv, the tracking function might change that. I changed my set up so I have two back buttons for focusing, one with tracking and one without. The “Tracking on + AF on” button adds tracking to non-tracking focus areas. So far, it has worked pretty well. But this is not a set up that I have seen any wildlife CZcamsrs talk about, so maybe there’s some downfall I haven’t found yet.
@@ameleh61 I don’t follow. Macro and landscape you would use MF of AF-S and you would use focus assist features like focus peaking or the focus magnifier. I’ve never found any reason to “recompose” an image since way back the DSLR days. But if you want to, for whatever reason, you just use the focus hold button.
I really like the way you explain stuff. You're clear, take your time and you deliver the information in a way that's easy to follow. I'm 72 and have been a professional photographer for 50 years. I know how to shoot and get the shots needed. But the technology has become sooo sophisticated since I bought my Canon 5D. It's like a whole new world. I've watched and rewatched many different video creators talk about the A7 IV since I bought it and you're the best! Too many are all about personality and entertainment. They talk fast and, hey, we just want to understand, not be entertained. I'm grateful to find your channel. Keep em coming. You're making a difference! Thanks.
Thank you so much for the kind words. I do make an effort to try to explain and demonstrate things in a way that a range of people can understand. Thank you for recognizing that. I have much more content on the way! Thank you again!
This is a master class on how to set up your focus for events. Really great setup. I have been working on creating a setup like yours where you can grab focus really easy but also pen point it when needed without going into a menu. I've got mine setup the opposite of yours where I let the camera find the subject on it's own then over ride if needed. I didn't know about the register zone + AF and really like the elegancy of that solution. Thanks. This video should be named don't miss focus again.
Thank you so much for the kind words!
Thank you very much for the deep dive in to what could be a very confusing area. Great work Erik! I loved this video as much as I liked your previous one, or even better. Keep up the good work.
Thank you! I’m glad to help, and I will continue to put out more content. Stay tuned!
Great video! I’ve now set my AF recall to Wide, and keep my camera on tracking expanded spot at most times. This lets me normally be in a high precision focusing mode for choosing specific faces or objects (I use focus and recompose with tracking), but by pressing the back AF-on button I can instantly swap to Wide with Eye AF for when something is unfolding instantly in front of me that I don’t want to chance missing. Very helpful tip.
Great information, thanks for sharing. I'm still experimenting with finding the right settings. I'm coming from GH5, the A7IV is taking some getting used to in regard to trusting the AF system.
Definitely take your time. I will say that the A7IV might be the most complicated camera to dive into, but it’s absolutely worth it. Enjoy!
Thanks for the help :)
you're welcome!
After almost a full year of exclusively using BBAF I too have enabled focus with half press, agreed there's really no reason to disable this now with how the other buttons override it. Nice video, I'd also be curious with this camera how well animal eye AF works in video mode.
I can't believe that I haven't even tried the animal or bird eye AF in video yet, but for sure I will be doing it soon.
Only one reason for me. Landscapes where you don't want the focus changing, think HDR merge type shoots or where you are really being exacting about the depth of field.
Erik, great video. Thank you. One point that I have seen that is somewhat in contradiction to your view on the AF responsiveness: I have seen a lot of other photographers discuss the fact that ‘5’ responsiveness is indeed for a lot of change and fast moving subjects, but more so that you want the AF to be responsive to change from one subject to another. For example, if you quickly wanted to switch one football player to the next. Additionally, the ‘locked on’ is equally as ‘fast’ and can follow fast moving objects, but it wouldn’t be quick or fast to move from one subject to another. It will do its best to stick what it was originally tracking. I felt you were suggesting that locked on or a lower value responsiveness setting was slower to focus which isn’t the case. (I hope that makes sense).
Keen to hear your views on this.
Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment. Technically the answer is both. The AF tracking sensitivity in stills determines how the AF reacts to change. Whether it’s changing to the subject it perceives to be the dominant subject in the scene, or if it’s detecting the change in distance of a moving subject. To the camera it’s the same thing. In video you have the option to specifically control the subject shift sensitivity, but in stills you either have to register a face, are use your focus area to limit the subject your camera chooses to focus on. It’s one of the most complicated subjects to dive into, along with exactly how PDAF works, and the correlation between light and the absence of light (phase) that it is detecting.
@@erikdurnall9585 Thanks for the reply. Yes, video is more straight forward. As for stills, I do shoot a lot of kids OzTag and on 5, I can readily jump from one player to the next. On 1, I can follow a player through an entire play. Both are fast, but are different when it comes to switching from one to the other.
FYI - I found you on the A7IV fb page. Keep making these videos. I really think there are a lot of people who will learn a lot from you with your detailed presentation style. 👌
@@danfarmer_photo Absolutely. Great work Erik!
Nice!
Thanks
You’re welcome!
Very clear video, thanks.
I often use the tracking mode the large frame with face/eye detection. But sometimes the focus is not on where I want to.
A solution could be using flexible spot, but using flexible spot and joystick is not easy/quick for me.
My question is: When in tracking / large or zone mode on the A7 IV, is it possible to select and maintain a programmed button to get the focus at the center of the frame while keeping the tracking ? (This is possible on Nikon Z6 with the lastest software, this is also possible on the Sony A7 III by progamming a button with the object definition function)
But on A7 IV, I only succeeded to program a button that enables to revert from tracking/large mode to standard focus. Unfortunately the standard mode focuses at the center of the frame ,as I want , but only in AFS but not in AFC tracking mode.
Thanks for any suggestions.
You can just use any tracking area (maybe large area tracking or zone tracking) as your registered focus area set in the center then assign a button such as your AEL button or AF-On button to Reg. AF Area + AF On.
Do you have a video covering the peaking and auto focus with manual adjust?
I will cover manual focus and the various focus assist features in my upcoming Timelapse tutorial video. Subscribe and stay tuned!
@@erikdurnall9585 👍👍
Thank you for the very informative video, Erik!
I have one additional question though that I'm still confused about: What is the different use cases between "Tracking On" vs "Tracking On + AF On"? It seems Tracking already does everything AF On does to me at first?
“Tracking On” only enables Tracking while you hold the button, it doesn’t acquire focus, you would still need to half press the shutter to focus while holding the “Tracking On” button. “Tracking On + AF On” uses your current AF area to acquire focus, then enables tracking and continues to track, essentially performing 3 actions with a single button press.
@@erikdurnall9585 Thank you very much for responding so quickly! Your explanation was way better than Sony’s manual! Cheers!
Hi Erik, Nice job on this. One question, why do you use zone instead of wide when you are using Registered Focus Area? Since you've shown that you cannot move the RFA, I would think that Wide would be more useful since there is no need to move it? I'm guessing that it has to do with avoiding focusing on other people in the scene? Appreciate any advice. I use Wide with one subject and with head/eye AF a large percentage of the time split with using flexible spot-on tracking.
Thanks for the question. I never use wide area. I use a flexible spot and a Zone as my registered AF area. If I need to recompose an image I can use my back button tracking which uses my selected AF area to detect what I want to track and then tracks using wide area tracking. I also have my Eye AF that will detect and track the subject’s eye anywhere in the frame. So technically I always have flexible spot, zone, wide area tracking and eye af available at all times.
nice tuto. I see you have set AF w/shutter ON meaning that you half press shutter to focus and take picture in af-c. you don't use "back button focus with AFON set to AFO. correct ?
You are using single point : ok; I know very well eye af : ok ; So now, what is AFON button set to "tracking+AFON" ? How to you stop AF to switch to a kind of af-s to focus on a subject, recompose image as we do easily in back button focus ?
Personnally i am using AF w/shutter ON and set AFON to "AF/MF toggle" as i do in video (like jason vong video settings). I have the feeling af/mf toggle is similar to quickly switching to af-s to recompose by stopping pressing afon button. Mark Galler advises to use that AF/MF toggle (but he puts that on lens focus hold button).
There’s never been a time that I couldn’t recompose an image just using the Eye AF or back button tracking. If I need to manually focus, I just switch the MF switch on the lens.
Good at photography. making a videocast... What is that mic doing in the shot?
But if you let go of a back-button focus button in order to freeze the focus, won't the shutter button refocus again when you don't want it to?
@@ameleh61 why would you want to change your focus? You take the picture of what you’re focused on.
@@erikdurnall9585 if the place you want focused is not the center of the frame, but your point is there, you can focus wherever the point is, reframe by moving the camera, then press the shutter. That's faster than moving the focus point.
@@ameleh61 why wouldn’t you just move the focus point to where you want the focus to be?
@@erikdurnall9585 if I’m doing landscapes or macros that is how I do it, but for me it’s much faster to virtually move the focus spot to the right spot by pointing the camera, pressing the focus button, and then reframing. I learned to do that on a Canon 5D iii, but now with the A7rv, the tracking function might change that. I changed my set up so I have two back buttons for focusing, one with tracking and one without. The “Tracking on + AF on” button adds tracking to non-tracking focus areas. So far, it has worked pretty well. But this is not a set up that I have seen any wildlife CZcamsrs talk about, so maybe there’s some downfall I haven’t found yet.
@@ameleh61 I don’t follow. Macro and landscape you would use MF of AF-S and you would use focus assist features like focus peaking or the focus magnifier. I’ve never found any reason to “recompose” an image since way back the DSLR days. But if you want to, for whatever reason, you just use the focus hold button.