Thanks for posting your video! I scored an inboard motor boat recently. I'm up for the mechanical challenge of making the thing run again. My boggle is that my wallet may be too light for this style and size boat. I'm watching clips like yours to help me make an informed decision faster.
Ah jeez man, that was a hell of a cool trick, removing the trailer wheels! I just went through this with my 79 Chaparral yesterday. Has a mint condition chevy 305 in it. I built a 6' wide gantry with doubled up 2x4's and a harbor freight chain hoist. Worked like a charm! Had to replace the drive flange in the back. It surprised me that it only took about an hour to replace and drop the engine back on the mounts. Alignment is next!
I am happy they helped. I couldn't find any videos when I needed them so I decided to make them as I would go to reference to and share with others in hopes they help. Thanks for the positive comment.
I have the exact same engine in my boat that I'm researching on how to remove to replace a popped freeze plug in the flywheel assembly. Though I don't have to take it completely out of the boat, this was very insightful. Thank you for posting this comprehensive video!
I will winterize it properly. I got this boat damaged, due to the original owner not properly winterizing it. It had a popped freeze plug in the flywheel housing, and a few cracks on the block in the water chamber. No water in oil. I ordered MuggyWeld 77 cast iron electrodes and welded up the block yesterday. I'm excited to do a test run this afternoon. Hopefully everything will check out and I can reinstall the engine! Thanks again for the good video.
@@stuartwood2677 how did this work out for you? I have the same problem. im about to pull the engine and check it out. How did the welds hold up? Did you remove the long fwd center bolt or the two on the side that go into the boat? thanks for any help.
@@CodyJv yup I had a rusted out steel plug. I got a 2in. Brass plug Napa (2 bucks). Slipped it in, haven't had a problem with it. Did have to change the starter, I think all the salt water ate it up.
Hi, Question: after removing the engine mounts ( bolts) what else holds the engine together to the back of the boat , engine will slide out towards the front of the boat? Is there any other bolts to remove? , also to put the engine back do you have to use a alignment tool.
BEERS 'n GEARS. thanks, have a couple thousand dollar fishing boat I was think about buying that needs an engine swap. just wanted to know what I was in for.
I have a 3.0 that has not been started in 4 years. There is foam in the oil so blown head gasket for sure. I'm hoping it's just milling the warp out of the cylinder head and replacing the head gasket. Good ideal pulling the wheels to lower the boat to let you use a standard cherry picker. Thanks for the video.
Just so you know, my head gasket was NOT blown, it was my exhaust manifold was rusted through. Also these engines are common to get cracked block right behind the exhaust manifold, I'd suggest removing the exhaust manifold and check for cracks.
In the beginning of the video where he shows the two white wires on the 4 pin plug (one pin not used on this boat), the remaining black wire connects to the white/green wire and then to the shift interrupt switch.
I see several comments asking about the outdrive. I believe you have removed it first? Do you have a video on how much of the outdrive needs to be removed to free the connection to the engine? The gimbal housing does not apparently need to be removed?
BizLoanConsultants.com Yes I did. Not sure if it's necessary because of the driveshaft. But I needed to repair the transom so I had to remove the outdrive, engine and gimbal housing.
all in all about how long did it take you to pull AND reinstall? I had a starter boat break in my block on our last trip so I'm slowly accepting the fact that i might have to pull the motor out to get it out correctly. thanks
alexmhoffman50 I'd say about 2 hours to take it out and 2 hours to put it back. I had a broken starter bolt also, haha. I got it out using a reverse drill bit. EDIT: use a punch to dent the center of the bolt to assist in drilling in the center. if you damage the threads on accident you can use a hell coil. but by all means avoid damaging the threads. you may be able to do it without removing the mother by using a 90 degree drill and reverse drill bit.
At least you can get to your motor. Have a 87 sea ray with a ford big block, 460 ci. The motor is below deck and I Kinda have to hang upside down to get to it. Other than that when I bought it was missing the rotor the motor was attached to the stringers and a few other parts missing. because this guy thought he knew what he was doing. Did have to build a swim platform for it but all in all it's a decent boat
genmangler69 this boat wasn't taken care of. I am rebuilding everything. Seaswirl is better than bayliner. I'm going to post a video fixing my leaking outdrive.
BEERS 'n GEARS this boat wasnt taken care of either its in bad shape but im gonna give it a shot.....we should get in contact somehow im gonna need some guidance for i dont know what the hell im doin
genmangler69 I didn't know what I was doing either, lol! I learned a lot though! I got a lot of info from the iboats forum and from friscoboats youtube channel.
Some good info, but three minutes into the video and I'm feeling seasick from all the motion. Dude, next time get someone else to hold the camera. Alot of wasted time, too. With just a modicum of planning this could have been a 5 minute video.
Hi, Question: after removing the engine mounts ( bolts) what else holds the engine together to the back of the boat , engine will slide out towards the front of the boat? Is there any other bolts to remove? , also to put the engine back do you have to use a alignment tool.
Is your sterdrive off? It needs to be off because the drive shaft will slide out of the coupler with the drive. After you put the engine back in you need to make sure the engine is aligned. And ensure that the drive shaft will slide in smoothly. only things holding the engine in: 1) Motor mounts, front and back of engine. 2) wiring, make sure all wiring is free 3) there is a water hose that needs to be removed 4) Fuel hose 5) Throttle/shift cables That should be it, but definately have your stern drive off first.
Thanks for posting your video! I scored an inboard motor boat recently. I'm up for the mechanical challenge of making the thing run again. My boggle is that my wallet may be too light for this style and size boat. I'm watching clips like yours to help me make an informed decision faster.
Ah jeez man, that was a hell of a cool trick, removing the trailer wheels! I just went through this with my 79 Chaparral yesterday. Has a mint condition chevy 305 in it. I built a 6' wide gantry with doubled up 2x4's and a harbor freight chain hoist. Worked like a charm! Had to replace the drive flange in the back. It surprised me that it only took about an hour to replace and drop the engine back on the mounts. Alignment is next!
Thanks for the Videos they helped me out immensely!!
I am happy they helped. I couldn't find any videos when I needed them so I decided to make them as I would go to reference to and share with others in hopes they help. Thanks for the positive comment.
I have the exact same engine in my boat that I'm researching on how to remove to replace a popped freeze plug in the flywheel assembly. Though I don't have to take it completely out of the boat, this was very insightful. Thank you for posting this comprehensive video!
Stuart Wood You are very welcome. thanks for the positive comment. I bet you'll winterize it in the future! haha
I will winterize it properly. I got this boat damaged, due to the
original owner not properly winterizing it. It had a popped freeze plug
in the flywheel housing, and a few cracks on the block in the water
chamber. No water in oil. I ordered MuggyWeld 77 cast iron electrodes
and welded up the block yesterday. I'm excited to do a test run this
afternoon. Hopefully everything will check out and I can reinstall the
engine! Thanks again for the good video.
@@stuartwood2677 how did this work out for you? I have the same problem. im about to pull the engine and check it out. How did the welds hold up? Did you remove the long fwd center bolt or the two on the side that go into the boat? thanks for any help.
@@Ryan63d probably won't get a reply but similar situation hoping it's just rotted freeze plug
@@CodyJv yup I had a rusted out steel plug. I got a 2in. Brass plug Napa (2 bucks). Slipped it in, haven't had a problem with it. Did have to change the starter, I think all the salt water ate it up.
Hi,
Question: after removing the engine mounts ( bolts) what else holds the engine together to the back of the boat , engine will slide out towards the front of the boat? Is there any other bolts to remove? , also to put the engine back do you have to use a alignment tool.
great, just what I was looking for. keep them coming
cavemandancer Thanks for the positive comment and I am happy they helped you!
BEERS 'n GEARS. thanks, have a couple thousand dollar fishing boat I was think about buying that needs an engine swap. just wanted to know what I was in for.
I have a 3.0 that has not been started in 4 years. There is foam in the oil so blown head gasket for sure. I'm hoping it's just milling the warp out of the cylinder head and replacing the head gasket. Good ideal pulling the wheels to lower the boat to let you use a standard cherry picker. Thanks for the video.
Just so you know, my head gasket was NOT blown, it was my exhaust manifold was rusted through. Also these engines are common to get cracked block right behind the exhaust manifold, I'd suggest removing the exhaust manifold and check for cracks.
@@BEERSnGEARS would that put water in the bellhousing/starter area?
Very helpfull video, thank you
I have a question.. You have de Delco EST distributor on it.. but how is your kill switch connected? I changed it from bobine to delco
In the beginning of the video where he shows the two white wires on the 4 pin plug (one pin not used on this boat), the remaining black wire connects to the white/green wire and then to the shift interrupt switch.
I need to get to the lower part of the exhaust pipe there are four torque screws that became loose and my boat is leaking water
How is the engine connected to the stern drive? Did you have to remove the stern drive first before pulling the motor?
I see several comments asking about the outdrive. I believe you have removed it first? Do you have a video on how much of the outdrive needs to be removed to free the connection to the engine? The gimbal housing does not apparently need to be removed?
helps alot thanks
my fuel sending unit looks the same 2 green wires one ground to the sending unit one grounds to the tank
What was the problem? Backfire or rev problema?
Mixture screw on the carburetor was not doing anything. The carburetor plate is worn out. And the timing was off by a tad.
The only way that I can get to those torque screws is removing the engine, right?
Is it leaking while on muffs? Or only when it is in the water?
3:42 those cables are to connect a time adjusment tool
I know that now. I just had to adjust my timing.
Did you remove the outdrive before removing engine? I could not tell.
BizLoanConsultants.com Yes I did. Not sure if it's necessary because of the driveshaft. But I needed to repair the transom so I had to remove the outdrive, engine and gimbal housing.
Thanks!
If you look at 1658 you will see that the outdrive is out
Good job. Thank you
Sterndrive this is still on I was hoping that I didn't have to remove it.
3:48 goes to the shift interrupter
all in all about how long did it take you to pull AND reinstall? I had a starter boat break in my block on our last trip so I'm slowly accepting the fact that i might have to pull the motor out to get it out correctly. thanks
alexmhoffman50 I'd say about 2 hours to take it out and 2 hours to put it back. I had a broken starter bolt also, haha. I got it out using a reverse drill bit.
EDIT: use a punch to dent the center of the bolt to assist in drilling in the center. if you damage the threads on accident you can use a hell coil. but by all means avoid damaging the threads.
you may be able to do it without removing the mother by using a 90 degree drill and reverse drill bit.
At least you can get to your motor. Have a 87 sea ray with a ford big block, 460 ci. The motor is below deck and I Kinda have to hang upside down to get to it. Other than that when I bought it was missing the rotor the motor was attached to the stringers and a few other parts missing. because this guy thought he knew what he was doing. Did have to build a swim platform for it but all in all it's a decent boat
Why would water come out of my bell housing
Nice
how did this restoration project go......fixin to start one myself on a 16' seaswirl tahoe
genmangler69 this boat wasn't taken care of. I am rebuilding everything. Seaswirl is better than bayliner. I'm going to post a video fixing my leaking outdrive.
BEERS 'n GEARS this boat wasnt taken care of either its in bad shape but im gonna give it a shot.....we should get in contact somehow im gonna need some guidance for i dont know what the hell im doin
genmangler69 I didn't know what I was doing either, lol! I learned a lot though! I got a lot of info from the iboats forum and from friscoboats youtube channel.
BEERS 'n GEARS i got this one dirt cheap but its missin the head the exhaust the carburetor. and god knows what else
genmangler69 damn that's a lot missing! I'm assuming it it the 3.0l? What outdrive does it have? Mine has an alpha one gen 2.
Heb een boot met de zelfde motor en zoek TECHNISE gegevens van de motor graag klepspeling !!!
Dude doesn't sound like he knows much about boat wiring
Dude, you might be right
ben
OK video other then far to much camera movement.
Some good info, but three minutes into the video and I'm feeling seasick from all the motion. Dude, next time get someone else to hold the camera. Alot of wasted time, too. With just a modicum of planning this could have been a 5 minute video.
do yourself a favor and burn the boat. It's rotten and the engine was running raw water.
Running raw water?
@@BEERSnGEARS HAHAHA! I guess you're supposed to cook the water before it goes into the engine?
Hi,
Question: after removing the engine mounts ( bolts) what else holds the engine together to the back of the boat , engine will slide out towards the front of the boat? Is there any other bolts to remove? , also to put the engine back do you have to use a alignment tool.
Is your sterdrive off? It needs to be off because the drive shaft will slide out of the coupler with the drive. After you put the engine back in you need to make sure the engine is aligned. And ensure that the drive shaft will slide in smoothly.
only things holding the engine in:
1) Motor mounts, front and back of engine.
2) wiring, make sure all wiring is free
3) there is a water hose that needs to be removed
4) Fuel hose
5) Throttle/shift cables
That should be it, but definately have your stern drive off first.