Folks, this engine is a 1950's and 1960's design. This is as basic of a design as it gets. Thanks for all the posts. I just purchased a 3.0 Mercruiser as it is so simple.
I had to cringe when you started wire-wheeling your ports AFTER you bolted the head onto the block... dude... all that rust is now inside the head and block you just worked on... Clean EVERYTHING BEFORE you start bolting stuff back together.
I have a Glastron G1700 I am taking down to the hull and restoring. It is a 1992. I have to restring it, and I have already started that, and it is almost down to the original fiberglass hull; looks good. The engine oil was overfilled and a little milky. The engine looks good, has new starter and manifold and I heard it run. Sounded good and pumped good, sounded like I heard some gimble bearing whine. Probably has some misalignment since the engine support board in the engine bay is rotted and dropped down. Transom looks good so far, will know more when I yank the engine and outdrive, and remove the gimble for inspection. Has the mercruiser 3.0 ltre/xl GM and I have heard there are a few things that could be happening. 1) Blown head gasket, Craked block, and something to do with the exhaust. They showed me the compression, and evry cylinder had 120 last one had 150, but I hve not seen a leak down test. I have not found anyone to rebuild but one guy that priced it at as much as I can crate one new. I was just figuring on putting a new one in it being I have not ever rebuilt a car or boat engine, but have done everything else imaginable to boat and car engines. Not sure if I trust myself to spend the money and not get it right. Then again if the block is cracked, no go anyway. Would like to know what the problem is allowing water in the oil. I just don't know what the charactoristics are with these engines with this problem. Sorry for the wall of text, just thought I would share my project with you. Since the boat is going to be restored, and I am restringing it and new seas paint and all, figures just to put a new engine in; what you think?
Dennis Gulat my head gasket did not appear blown. my problem was a cracked exhaust manifold. the water exits through the exhaust. when the manifold is cracked it can allow water in the cylinders. Amd from there can leak through the rings into the oil.
You have the head off, you need to remove and lap the valves at least as they have been wet! Shitty wire brush on the parts you can see does nothing! Need to check the seat and make sure valves are not stuck in the guides.... I managed to revive one of these for a customer this week, had to fresh up head and clean bores, 3 flushes of oil and filter! Got onto it quick as death by manifold has a very short time line in salt!
Ummm, whaaaaaaat? Yes, there IS in fact and inarguably a camshaft.... Its gear driven by the crankshaft -- no timing chain on these. There is a notch in both the cam gear and the crankshaft gear - line them up with each other when installing the cam gear. Doesnt get much easier than that.....
I think you are trying to ask how to set the valves -- best answer, see the service manual -- simple method, turn the crankshaft to tdc (#1 piston - the very front one - all the way up, distributor pointing at #1 spark plug). This will close 1/2 the valves (sorry, cant remember which ones off hand, but it will be obvious-- just set the push rods in their places -- the short ones are closed).. Then install the rocker arm and fulcrum and nut (BIG REALLY IMPORTANT SUPER NECESSARY NOTE: PUT OIL ON THE ROCKERS AND FULCRUMS FIRST!) Tighten until you just barely cant wiggle the rocker arm side to side anymore. Then 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. Do this to the CLOSED VALVES ONLY!!!!!!!! VERY IMPORTANT!!! Once done, turn the crankshaft one complete turn. Again, the timing notch should be at zero, #1 piston all the way up, but now the distributor should be pointing AWAY from the #1 spark plug wire (it will point at the #4 if I remember off hand correctly...) Now, the 4 valves that were open before will be closed (pushrods now short). Do the same tightening procedure on these 4 valves... IF all went well, you are now done... It will be obvious.. The engine either will (bad) or will not (good) make clattering noise when you start it. If the engine is quiet when it starts, you did good. Enjoy your boat THEN drink a beer.... If the engine clatters, then you will have to do a live adjustment... Start engine with valve cover off... WARNING -- oil is going to go EVERYWHERE!!! Start from the front and do each valve in line until you get to the back... loosen until that valve clatters, tighten just until it doesn't, then very very slowly tighten 1/4 turn, wait a min or two, then very very slowly tighten another 1/4 turn, wait another min or two, and then very very slowly tighten 1/4 turn more. Total of 3/4 turn after it stops clattering.... Repeat for each valve... Hope this helps!
@@graken22 I subscribed to you, can't wait to see you post a helpful video. The community is full of people that appreciate videos that help others. Your mind is blown
That intake gasket wasn't either correct or you put it on wrong! If you look at your own video you will notice how it is blocking cylinder 2 of 3 by 50%. Hope you fixed it.
@@Ericrp119tube I would have it cleaned. My exhaust manifold rusted and the rust ate a hole in-between the water ports and exhaust ports. And it was causing excessive water in the oil
Um, yeah, again, need to do some learning here..... YES, a 3.0 head will inarguably fit on a 2.5l block. Dont trust a marine mech who tells you otherwise... That said, DONT DO IT!!!! The 3.0l head is designed differently to accommodate the effects of the longer stroke (meaning the 3.0l pistons move farther up and down than the 2.5l ones do -- this is the only difference between the two...) If you put a 3.0l head on a 2.5l, you will increase the compression to the point you have to run very high octane gas to not ping.... Not a good idea... But to answer your question, yes it will fit-- want proof? Go to the marine parts store and ask for a head gasket for a 3.0l... then ask for one for a 2.5l. After they laugh at you they will show you where the package is labeled for both 3.0l and 2.5l.... Same engine... 3.0l is just stroked.... Hope this helps....
You just shot rust particles all over the head which will end up in the oil ports , not good ! Also mercruiser service bulitin call for 95# torque , and as far as setting valve lash it has hyd lifters so you set with it running to be perfect , only solid lifters set by feeler gage ,
Folks, this engine is a 1950's and 1960's design. This is as basic of a design as it gets. Thanks for all the posts. I just purchased a 3.0 Mercruiser as it is so simple.
I had to cringe when you started wire-wheeling your ports AFTER you bolted the head onto the block... dude... all that rust is now inside the head and block you just worked on... Clean EVERYTHING BEFORE you start bolting stuff back together.
I have a Glastron G1700 I am taking down to the hull and restoring. It is a 1992. I have to restring it, and I have already started that, and it is almost down to the original fiberglass hull; looks good. The engine oil was overfilled and a little milky. The engine looks good, has new starter and manifold and I heard it run. Sounded good and pumped good, sounded like I heard some gimble bearing whine. Probably has some misalignment since the engine support board in the engine bay is rotted and dropped down. Transom looks good so far, will know more when I yank the engine and outdrive, and remove the gimble for inspection. Has the mercruiser 3.0 ltre/xl GM and I have heard there are a few things that could be happening. 1) Blown head gasket, Craked block, and something to do with the exhaust. They showed me the compression, and evry cylinder had 120 last one had 150, but I hve not seen a leak down test. I have not found anyone to rebuild but one guy that priced it at as much as I can crate one new. I was just figuring on putting a new one in it being I have not ever rebuilt a car or boat engine, but have done everything else imaginable to boat and car engines. Not sure if I trust myself to spend the money and not get it right. Then again if the block is cracked, no go anyway. Would like to know what the problem is allowing water in the oil. I just don't know what the charactoristics are with these engines with this problem. Sorry for the wall of text, just thought I would share my project with you. Since the boat is going to be restored, and I am restringing it and new seas paint and all, figures just to put a new engine in; what you think?
Dennis Gulat my head gasket did not appear blown. my problem was a cracked exhaust manifold. the water exits through the exhaust. when the manifold is cracked it can allow water in the cylinders. Amd from there can leak through the rings into the oil.
Ok, got it. I understand now.
ur exhaust gasket is upside down
Did you clean the piston top ?????? Bad doggy every thing should be shiny befor the gasket shows up!!!
Since you had the head off it would be best to retap the threads to clean them up and new head bolts.
Hell no dont retap them, makes them wider. Get new head bolts FOR SURE.
You have the head off, you need to remove and lap the valves at least as they have been wet! Shitty wire brush on the parts you can see does nothing! Need to check the seat and make sure valves are not stuck in the guides.... I managed to revive one of these for a customer this week, had to fresh up head and clean bores, 3 flushes of oil and filter! Got onto it quick as death by manifold has a very short time line in salt!
Tell me you left the plugs in when you clean the head bad doggie
where are the wires going grinding the ports with a wire wheel?
This gasket kit fit mercruiser 3.0 tks 135hp alpha?
you forgot about the valve lash when you were assembling the pushrods and the rockers
Which method did you use to adjust the valves ? I am about to do the same job on this engine also.
And valves lash ???
Hello, how you did the timing between the crankshaft and the cam shaft please ?
No camshaft
How do you synchronise the valves with the crankshaft ?
Ummm, whaaaaaaat?
Yes, there IS in fact and inarguably a camshaft....
Its gear driven by the crankshaft -- no timing chain on these. There is a notch in both the cam gear and the crankshaft gear - line them up with each other when installing the cam gear. Doesnt get much easier than that.....
I think you are trying to ask how to set the valves -- best answer, see the service manual -- simple method, turn the crankshaft to tdc (#1 piston - the very front one - all the way up, distributor pointing at #1 spark plug). This will close 1/2 the valves (sorry, cant remember which ones off hand, but it will be obvious-- just set the push rods in their places -- the short ones are closed).. Then install the rocker arm and fulcrum and nut (BIG REALLY IMPORTANT SUPER NECESSARY NOTE: PUT OIL ON THE ROCKERS AND FULCRUMS FIRST!) Tighten until you just barely cant wiggle the rocker arm side to side anymore. Then 1/4 to 1/2 turn more.
Do this to the CLOSED VALVES ONLY!!!!!!!! VERY IMPORTANT!!!
Once done, turn the crankshaft one complete turn. Again, the timing notch should be at zero, #1 piston all the way up, but now the distributor should be pointing AWAY from the #1 spark plug wire (it will point at the #4 if I remember off hand correctly...)
Now, the 4 valves that were open before will be closed (pushrods now short).
Do the same tightening procedure on these 4 valves...
IF all went well, you are now done...
It will be obvious.. The engine either will (bad) or will not (good) make clattering noise when you start it.
If the engine is quiet when it starts, you did good. Enjoy your boat THEN drink a beer....
If the engine clatters, then you will have to do a live adjustment...
Start engine with valve cover off... WARNING -- oil is going to go EVERYWHERE!!!
Start from the front and do each valve in line until you get to the back... loosen until that valve clatters, tighten just until it doesn't, then very very slowly tighten 1/4 turn, wait a min or two, then very very slowly tighten another 1/4 turn, wait another min or two, and then very very slowly tighten 1/4 turn more. Total of 3/4 turn after it stops clattering....
Repeat for each valve...
Hope this helps!
I would assume there's lobes on the crank for the push rods
Hello does this run where's the rest of the video
Question. Did you retorque the head after a heat cycle?
It was so long ago, but I'm pretty sure I did. Also with the exhaust manifold
Hi, will the standard headgasket fit after a rebore and .3 oversize pistons?
Sorry man, I don't know.
@@graken22 I subscribed to you, can't wait to see you post a helpful video. The community is full of people that appreciate videos that help others. Your mind is blown
how much did you ended up paying for the the engine gasket kit ?
stevelv23 I believe it was around 60 bucks on ebay
That intake gasket wasn't either correct or you put it on wrong! If you look at your own video you will notice how it is blocking cylinder 2 of 3 by 50%. Hope you fixed it.
How many pounds did you torque it too
I think he said 90lb
When do we get to see it run
Finn Campeau trust me I'm very frustrated with the time span of this project, lol
from the way he works never
So you just forgot about us... with the 3.0 mercruiser... no more videos!?!? 😕
Sorry bud. I sold it. But I do hope the videos I have are helping you and others. It was my first boat project.
@@BEERSnGEARS does the water cooling system and channels have to be really clean? Mines are a little rusty. But thanks for the videoss
@@Ericrp119tube I would have it cleaned. My exhaust manifold rusted and the rust ate a hole in-between the water ports and exhaust ports. And it was causing excessive water in the oil
@@BEERSnGEARS got it thanks
Ill a 3.o liter head fit on a 2.5 liter g.m. engine
No it wouldn't
Um, yeah, again, need to do some learning here.....
YES, a 3.0 head will inarguably fit on a 2.5l block. Dont trust a marine mech who tells you otherwise...
That said, DONT DO IT!!!!
The 3.0l head is designed differently to accommodate the effects of the longer stroke (meaning the 3.0l pistons move farther up and down than the 2.5l ones do -- this is the only difference between the two...)
If you put a 3.0l head on a 2.5l, you will increase the compression to the point you have to run very high octane gas to not ping.... Not a good idea...
But to answer your question, yes it will fit-- want proof? Go to the marine parts store and ask for a head gasket for a 3.0l... then ask for one for a 2.5l.
After they laugh at you they will show you where the package is labeled for both 3.0l and 2.5l....
Same engine...
3.0l is just stroked....
Hope this helps....
Holy crap that is not how you set valve lash at all
Meparece keara la gunta culata sele EXA grasa pones la ju ta vuelves aexar grasa para kesapege la ju ta eso sekeda ai como una pasta de ju tas
you forgot about the valve lash when you were assembling the pushrods and the rockers
TraxxasMadness valve lash?
ya its the gap between the rocker arms and the valve tappet it should be set from .003" to .006"
You just shot rust particles all over the head which will end up in the oil ports , not good ! Also mercruiser service bulitin call for 95# torque , and as far as setting valve lash it has hyd lifters so you set with it running to be perfect , only solid lifters set by feeler gage ,