I don't know why, but I feel like I could have a cup of coffee with this guy. Helpful, well explained, easy to understand..and reminded me my jack if all trade uncles back home.
Just wanted to say Thank You. I was pulling my hair out with a broken oven and your video really helped me out. Replaced the igniter just like you explained and I now have a meatloaf cooking in my repaired oven. Thank You.
Thanks! This video saved me hundreds of dollars. Instead of a service call and highly marked up parts I ordered an ignitor on Amazon and fixed the oven in a few minutes.
Because of this video. I was able to find out that the reason my oven wouldn't preheat, was because of a bad igniter. I followed all the tips, ordered a new one, replaced and fixed the issue. Our oven works as good as new! Thank you for posting this easy to follow video.
Solved my problem. The Igniter was glowing hot but the stove wouldn't heat so I was confused. Replaced the igniter and boom everything works great. Thank you, for educating me.
Just wanted to thank you for this video, it was indeed helpful and saved me a lot of money hiring a repair guy. You nailed my problem exactly, ordered the part, installed it and now working perfectly. Cheers!
I don't know what it is, but I like this guy. I would sit there and be like, " I wonder if Wayne would know how to make a fan that opens up like a flower when you turn it on and closes like one when you turn it off(Specifically random, I know)." And then he would know how to make an awesome flower fan and have more interesting ideas for it.
A faulty bottom ignitor was exactly what was wrong with my oven not heating properly. At first, I was skeptical because my ignitor was glowing fairly bright, but apparently it was not glowing bright enough to open the gas safety valve to allow the burner to light. I removed the ignitor by unscrewing the two screws and unplugging it from the rear. I then checked it with a voltmeter and it had approximately 180 ohms. The actual part of the ignitor that lights, can best be described as what looks like a black strip of sandpaper, with a shiny or reflective bass to it. Upon inspecting my old ignitor, I saw that only about half of the black portion was still shiny and reflective. I purchased a new one on Amazon for $17, and it was an exact replacement with the same connector attached. All areas of the piece inside the ignitor that looks like a black strip of sandpaper on the new ignitor were shiny and reflective, with no dull or burnt out portions on it. Prior to installing it, I checked it with a voltmeter and it had approximately 170 ohms. After I installed it, it got brighter than my previous ignitor, and the burner fired up about 30 seconds later. This was a very easy fix and only took about 15 minutes. You can do this!
I feel like this man watches way to many useless blabbering videos. Goes from problem to solution then how to right after another. Bravo, and thanks for the help.
Very helpful video. I was coming to the conclusion that because the igniter was glowing my problem must’ve been with the safety gas valve but I changed my mind based on your video. And you were right it was the igniter.
Thank you ! Thank you! Giving us the ohm reading to expect made a big difference! I had replaced the ignitor already with a new one and still no workie! Control board seemed fine and I was just perplexed as there is really not much else to these things,. Voltage was there from the switch so I am like, what! After knowing what to expect from a good one I decided to check my broiler ignitor and got the correct reading. Swapped it into the oven position and boom! Looks like they sent me a bad replacement part is it was practically open as well. That was not good or expected but knowing what the readings should be for this part and the regulator gives me a lot more confidence when things don't work on any range.
This is wonderfrul! THANK YOU! my wife was online ordering igniters and the emergency gas to the oven was shut off. SAVED US $$! I would not have checked since the burners were working. You learn something everyday.
OMG!!! First tutorial I found mentioning the "Service cut-off valve" 0:36. I didn't know even that existed. You saved me a ton of money man. Acquired an used range not long ago and I was going to replace the broil and baker igniters thinking they were defective. I thought my igniters didn't probably glow strong enough to trigger the safety gas valve. After watching the start of the video I immediately ran to the back of my range and there I found it. My oven "cut-off switch" turned off. I just turned it on and oven is now working like a charm 😊😊. THANK YOU WAYNE!!!!!!
I replaced the igniter even though it was glowing bright and it had a resistance of 175 ohms. The new igniter had a resistance of 115 ohms and I was fairly certain that this would NOT correct the problem. Boy, was I wrong! The oven fired right up!! Thank you Wayne!
Love the video. Very good information. I got halfway through and was convinced today video is all I need to fix my oven that won’t heat the oven although the burners works fine. I bought multimeter and can’t wait to get home and do some man work. Yea!!!
A little over two years ago, I had the 'glowing but not heating enough' problem, bought and installed a new igniter, and all was well-until now. Suddenly the igniter isn't glowing at all, and nothing happens when the oven's turned on. The oven light works, which I presume means the oven's getting electricity (and no breaker is tripped). Not sure if I should order another igniter and try replacing again. Because the oven is built in, I can't check anything on the back of it (at least, I don't know how to). Could be the oven is old enough it's just given up the ghost entirely. Oy.... Anyway, thanks for this video, which really is worthwhile.
Fantastic video, thank you! Was worried it was a gas problem when it was going on and off. Replaced ignitor as you said and voila! working oven. That would have certainly fooled me if not for your help. Appreciate it very much!
People say the igniter isn’t “hot” enough, but that’s likely not the case. The igniter can get plenty hot, but the resistance through it has gotten to a point that it does not provide enough amperage to make the safety valve open. That valve needs to see a minimum level of amperage to know that the igniter is hot enough to light the gas. I like the suggestion to swap the baking igniter with the broiler igniter and see if it works. If it does, it proves it was the igniter.
@@enduringpromise No I don't the specific amperage that would open the valve. I was about to replace one in my oven when I made my first comment. Was planning to swap the igniters to check, but of course they were very different types, and wouldn't work. I didn't bother to see what the amp draw was before replacing, but it was still red hot. Once the igniter was replaced, it started right up, valve opened and flowed gas which ignited and the oven heated up. I got mine from a legit parts e-tailer (Parts Dr) and it was about $180. I didn't trust I'd get the right model on Amazon or that it would last more than a year.
Your great! Easily explains things to wannabe fix it guys like myself. GUYS LIKE YOURSELF is the sole reason I still shop Sears even if that dumbass CEO is purposely trying to destroy an American Icon. Thank you Sir!
Have a Frigidaire Gas oven (BGGF3042KFE) top & broiler all work fine, bake will not work. Igniter wasn't turning red, so I ordered one from you. Installed it and oven worked the first time. Hasn't worked since. So checked all the connections, couldn't get it to work on "bake". Ordered a new control board and installed it. Oven still will not work on "bake". The igniter still will not turn red. Only thing left is the gas valve. Don't feel comfortable replacing it. Can't locate a repairman that will come out to replace it.
What a Pain In The Ass this solved my simple question after the gas company did some maintenance! All I wanted to know but was not in the owners manual! Thx easy fix!
I have a Samsung gas range and the oven bake and broil do not work at all but the stove top does work. When I turn on the BAKE setting and set the temp it just sits at 150 and never turns on.... I don’t have the bottom inside cover off so I can’t fully confirm if the igniter is glowing but I’ll take it apart this weekend, any ideas j til then? I think it’s the igniter
Desperately in need of assistance. What is the problem with my stove where when you turn on the burner the flame is normal height? But if you turn on a second or third burner at the same time the flame from the 1st burner lowers to a minimum. And the other burners also only get a very low flame
I have a double oven where neither top nor bottom seems to be getting propane supplied to them yet i can see that the electronic ignition is glowing hot on both of them, trying to ignite the incoming gas. i do have propane coming into the range because the stove burners work fine. So if both ovens stopped working together, what is in common to both of them yet would not affect the stove top burners?
Thanks for the great video. I have a Frigidaire FGF379WJCA and when I turn on the oven (not broil), the top ignitor turns red and lights the flame but the bottom ignitor doesn't. I checked the resistance on the bottom ignitor and it is 227ohms with 3.5ohms across the safety gas valve. After about 4-5 minutes of the top flame being lit but before the oven beeps indicating target temperature has been achieved, the top flame goes out and the ignitor dims out, then nothing. Any ideas?
Great video, but can I suggest you start with check all wiring first since this is the least expensive, and then igniter, valve, and control unit. Again Great video!!
Hopefully you can help me fix my Samsung gas oven. I have changed the igniter, the temperature sensor, the control board and it has not made a difference. It will pre heat like it should but after about 20 minutes or so the temp has gone down as much as 100 degrees from the preheat temp of 350. Help
How to diagnose correctly, Thinking the oven sensor was bad, I replaced it. Problem is still there. The oven when turned on (set at 350) surges to above 450. Left alone it will gradually (usually takes 15 to 20 minutes) to go down to the temp wanted. Given the exorbitant cost of an electronic module I have left it as is. Would a different temp sensor possibly cure this?
I smell gas when I turn on my oven, and it doesn't light even 5 min after turning it on. I light it manually but the flame is about 1/2 the strength of what it normally should be? Is this a faulty igniter not reaching its correct temperature?
We recommend that you shut off the gas supply to the oven and stop using it until a service technician diagnoses and repairs the oven. You shouldn't be able to manually light the oven burner in an oven that uses a glow bar igniter systems like the one shown in this video. The safety gas valve should only open if the igniter gets hot enough to allow enough electrical current to flow through the safety gas valve to trip the safety valve switch. We recommend that you have a service technician examine and repair the oven because your symptoms indicate possibly dangerous failures in the igniter, gas valve and related components such as wiring, burner and gas supply tubing. We hope this advice helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
Hello I have a Frigidaire FGB24S5DCA oven and the broiler works (both top and bottom igniters glow) however, when tried to bake there is no gas coming out. Also, the first time or I should say when I noticed the issue the kitchen smelled like gas (I checked the lines for leaks and everything seemed fine). Gas smell went away after turning it off and never any smell ever since. This was like 2 weeks ago. Can you please tell me if the problem is most likely the bottom igniter?
Yes. According to the symptoms you describe, replacing the bottom igniter will likely fix the bake burner ignition failure. If you replace the bottom igniter and bake burner still won't ignite, then a failed safety valve could be causing the problem.
@@imim4136 No. The safety valve is actuated by a bi-metal sensor disc that opens the valve when enough electrical current flows through the valve to heat the metal and warp the disc to open the valve and allow gas to flow to the burner. As the igniter heats up to ignition temperature, the resistance of the igniter decreases and allows more current to flow to the safety valve which eventually heats the safety valve disc to a point where it warps and opens the valve to allow gas to flow to the burner. The safety valve rarely fails because it is a simple bi-metal device. Even though the igniter glows, it's likely not reaching a temperature that is allowing enough current to flow through the safety valve to warp the disc. When the igniter glows but the burner doesn't ignite, replacing the igniter usually fixes the ignition problem. There's only a slight chance that that the safety valve failed. We hope this additional information helps. Let us know if you need further assistance.
To check if the igniter is getting hot enough on an oven that takes a long time to light can I just while checking the igniter light a match or use a torch to heat the area of the igniter? If the gas then come on I could deduce that the igniter is not getting hot enough on its own right and therefore needs to be replaced?
No. Heating the igniter in that manner can damage it. A technician would measure live amp draw through the wires going to the igniter to determine whether the igniter is getting hot enough to allow enough current to flow to the safety valve. Most people don't have a meter that can measure amp draw and that live amperage check is dangerous if not conducted properly. Replacing the igniter fixes the problem that you're describing in most situations. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
Thank you for the response, I'm replacing the igniter and will go from there. Also the burners on the top of the range release gas and I can hear and see sporadic sparking but it doesn't seem to be enough to light the gas - I use a lighter instead. I would like to fix that. Do you have a video on that? Thx.
@@Hizenbird Although we don't have a video for fixing surface burners that won't ignite, we do have written and illustrated repair help for that type of problem here: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/symptom/gas-range-repair/1235943/gas-burner-won-t-spark-or-ignite/ran00025587999998988 . Unplug the range and check the igniter electrodes for spills that may be covering the electrode or burner head. Here's a video on how to clean the burner head on a typical range: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/article/how-to-clean-grates-and-burners-on-a-gas-cooktop-video . Be sure to clean the ignition port as shown in that video if you have the same type of burner heads as the ones shown in that video. If you hear ticking when you turn a burner knob to ignite a surface burner, then the spark igniter switches on the burner valves are likely okay. If the spark module isn't sending spark current to the igniter electrodes consistently, then you likely need to replace the spark module. We hope this troubleshooting information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know and give us the model number of your range.
We recommend that you unplug the range and check continuity through the igniter using a multimeter. If you measure infinite resistance though the igniter then you’ll need to replace it again. Don’t touch the igniter element with bare fingers because oil from your fingers can cause the igniter element to fail within a few months after you install it. If the igniter is okay, check continuity through the igniter circuit from the control board (with the range still unplugged). If your meter measures infinite resistance (no continuity) through the igniter circuit then a bad safety valve or wiring failure is preventing the igniter from glowing. If you do measure continuity through the igniter circuit, then you’ll likely need to replace the control board if the igniter won’t glow when you start the oven in the bake mode. We hope these tips help. If you need further assistance, let us know. If you get to a point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair the range, you can schedule service here: www.searshomeservices.com/repair
Hi. I have the Kenmore model 790. Surface burners are working. All lights and display are working. Both oven and broil ignitors won't glow. When Testing resistance on control board, should one probe go to black wire on control board and the other to the pin (#6) that goes to ignitor? If so, I'm reading 0.09. Bad board??
Let us know the full model number of your Kenmore 790 range if the following advice doesn't help. It's unlikely (but remotely possible) that both igniters would fail at the same time. You can check resistance through each igniter as described in the video (also in this written version www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/article/oven-wont-heat-troubleshooting-gas-range-problems-video ). If both igniters are bad, replace both igniters. If the igniters are okay, check continuity through the safety gas valve. If the gas valve is okay, check the temperature sensor. You should measure around 1080 ohms through the temperature sensor at room temperature. If all of those components are okay, then you may need to replace the electronic control board.
@@searspartsdirect Thermostat 1075; boiler ignitor 172; oven ignitor 306; gas safety valve 2.2 - 3.8. Using a Centric multimeter. Kenmore Gas oven. Model #: 790.72333013; serial #: VF20458105
@@patniven9334 The resistance values that you provided seem to indicate that the components are good. We recommend checking the wiring. Make sure you measure those same resistance readings through the wires that connect to the control board. If you do, then you'll likely need to replace the control board ( www.searspartsdirect.com/product/2rtxb86hep-0022-628/id-316462803 ). If you replace the control board, you may also need the overlay unless you can peel the old one off and install it on the new one.
What is the cause of a pressure valve being open on the gas valve? I know they are on hot water tanks but whats the point of having one on a gas valve? Mine keeps tripping.
Your question seems to be about the gas supply going to the range. If that's so, then you'll need to have a plumber examine and repair that issue. If you're describing an internal failure in the range, let us know the model number of your range and additional details about the failure you're describing.
My oven is gas and tripping the panel breaker after 10 mins of full temp. Nothing I can find will help me with this. The inginter is working and oven comes to temp. like it should. Any thoughts?
A short circuit in the wiring of the oven circuit would cause the panel breaker to trip. Unplug the oven and check wiring if possible (or have a service technician check the wiring). A faulty panel breaker could be tripping even though excessive current isn't flowing through the circuit. A technician can check current flow through the appliance to see if current spikes when the panel breaker trips. We hope this information helps. If you need more assistance, let us know.
which sounds more likely the culprit. kitchenaid gas range. suddenly just quit making heat in the oven. *the top broiler appeared to glow and heat got to about 268 out of the 350 i set it to. no gas to the oven unit. tried the burners, no click, no gas. *checked water heater, and yes gas is flowing great*. oven has been in place for almost 2 years now btw. im thinking either control board or safety valve, as it was pretty sudden. after about 20 minutes * i thought it was cooking* i noticed the low temp, checked and saw no flame, did my burner test. so i shut off the oven for a moment. turned it back on, same story. well i already had chops part cooked so i figured id let it low temp them. another twenty or so go by and i hear the oven suddenly trying to click to light. it doesn't succeed but now the burners work. board or valve more likely culprit? i intend to test both but it will be my first range repair so i want to get it right. *its my own btw*
Let us know the model number of your KitchenAid gas range and we'll provide some troubleshooting steps that should help you determine the cause of these problems. We need the model number because some KitchenAid ranges use different ignition systems and gas control systems than the one shown in the video. We’ll be able to see technical information for the ignition system and gas control system using the model number for your KitchenAid gas range.
my 2 yr old GE JGBS10DEK1BB gas range is not cooking.. should be baked in 1hr but not even done in 3hrs... I think it tripped off to a lower temp. I can see it ignites and burns back but still its not cooking. Can you help me pls?
My broiler and range top works. The ignitor glows - and seems to turn on the gas safety valve - which release gas. BUT, the burner doesn't burn so I'm getting gas flowing all over until I shut off the oven. Help!
Based on those details, we recommend that you have a service technician examine and repair the range. The burner tube may be clogged or damaged-preventing the burner from igniting. The burner also won’t ignite if the igniter is damaged or isn’t positioned properly on the burner tube. It’s best to have a technician check those issues and repair the range so unignited gas doesn’t keep flowing when you try to use the oven.
What if.... igniter comes on some times but only for about 3 seconds. I hear a click in the controls board area when it turns off. F4 error code. Temperature sensor has already been replaced. Interestingly if I brush off the igniter it comes on more often.
Let us know the model number of your range. The F4 code on many gas ranges indicates that the temperature sensor is bad. Because you already replace the temperature sensor, that part is almost certainly okay. Wiring between the temperature sensor and the electronic oven control board could be causing the control board to detect a bad temperature sensor. Unplug the range and measure resistance through the sensor from the wires that plug into the control board using a multimeter. Most oven temperature sensors have resistance of 1050 ohms at room temperature. If your meter measures infinite resistance or near 0 resistance, then you'll likely need to repair or replace the oven temperature sensor wire harness. Based on your details, you may also need to replace the oven igniter. We hope this information helps. If you need more help, reply with the model number and additional details.
So, I also have a Cuisinart DCC-1200 it stopped turning on. I did the unplug and wait for 24 even a weeks but somethings shot. I would assume it was after leaving it on the whole day for the coffee to stay warm. What can we suspect from this one?
Make sure that the electrical outlet that you have the coffee maker plugged into works. You can check the electrical outlet by plugging a different item into the outlet to see if the outlet works. If the outlet works, then a broken power cord, wiring failure or failed internal parts could be preventing the coffee maker from powering up. We don't have internal parts or technical information for that model of Cuisinart coffee maker so we recommend that you contact Cuisinart for help with parts and internal failures. Here's a link for the Cuisinart website that has contact information: www.cuisinart.com/
PSEG tech first said it was the igniter. He changed it but oven still won't heat. They sent another service tech who said it was the switch. The oven is pretty old and they're having trouble locating the part. Where is the switch located on a gas oven? Is he talking about the thermostat?
Two switches could be preventing the oven burner from igniting. If the igniter glows when you start the oven in the bake mode, then the switch that the service tech is describing is likely the safety gas valve that has a current-sensitive switch. That current-sensitive switch opens the oven burner gas valve when the igniter heats to ignition temperature and allows enough current to flow to the safety gas valve switch to trip that current-sensitive switch. If the igniter doesn't glow, then the switch in the oven thermostat is likely preventing the oven from heating because that switch isn't sending any current to the igniter and safety gas valve. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know the model number of your range and additional details about the failure.
@@searspartsdirect Very helpful. Thank you. Tappan model no. 363272 . I'll have them take another look at it and follow your suggestions. I'll let you know to outcome.
My Kenmore gas oven made a click then popped the breaker. After that it won't heat up. I changed out the igniter but the new igniter won't light either. Any thoughts?
Your symptoms indicate that a relay on the electronic control board likely shorted out. Unplug the range and access the control board as shown in this video www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/repair-guide/how-to-replace-a-gas-range-oven-control-board . Check the components on the control board and look for burn marks. If the control board is damaged, replace it. If the control board looks okay, check the wiring between the control board and the igniter for damaged insulation that may have shorted to metal inside the range cabinet. We hope this advice helps. Let us know if you need further assistance.
Even though the igniter glows, it may not be getting hot enough to allow the right amount of current to flow through the safety valve and ignite the burner. Replacing the igniter will likely fix the problem that you're describing.
Hello, thank you, great video!!! After I swapped the igniter, now it turns easily on, but when I I try to turn the oven off, by turning the knob to off, the flame turns to very small flame, but it never turns off unless I turn the gas at the shutoff valve off. Any ideas?
That's a dangerous problem that should be diagnosed and repaired by a service technician. We recommend that you leave the range's gas supply shut off and have a service technician service the range before using it again. The service technician may find that the oven's safety gas valve isn't shutting off properly-causing the a small amount of gas to keep flowing to the burner after you shut off the oven.
The flame in our oven goes on and off before even reaching the temp. It takes over an hour to preheat. The igniter isn't the issue because it lights the oven in about a minute. The issue is the flame isn't consistent enough to keep the oven hot. What could it be?
Based on the symptoms you describe, a weak igniter still could be preventing the oven from heating properly-not enough electrical current is flowing to the safety gas valve to keep the valve open and the oven burner lit as needed. Because you said the oven eventually heats to the set temperature, it sounds like the sensor, burner and gas supply are likely all okay. Loose wiring connections could possibly cause the same symptoms. Unplug the range and check the wiring connections on the igniter, safety gas valve and control. If the wiring connections are okay, then you’ll likely need to replace the igniter. If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair the range, you can schedule service here: www.searshomeservices.com/.
How long should it take for the oven to ignite? Anyone know? My ignitor glows, and it gets slightly warm inside the oven after a couple minutes, but no flames, no actual heat. I've never had a gas oven before, so this is all a little bit new to me. I'm pretty sure it lit when we first got the gas turned on about 2 weeks ago, so and it hasn't been used in between so I don't see how it could just stop working like that. Am I maybe just not waiting long enough? I get a little freaked out just leaving it on without it lighting because I'm worried it'll open the gas valve and start leaking gas without actually igniting, and then blow up or something. I have no idea if that's even actually possible though, so if anyone knows, I'd really appreciate it.
The burner should ignite within a minute or two after the igniter begins glowing. The safety gas valve won't open unless the igniter glows hot enough to ignite the gas so gas won't leak while the igniter glows. Even though the igniter glows, it's likely not getting hot enough to safely ignite the gas so the safety gas valve isn't opening. You can likely fix the oven by having a service technician replace the igniter. If you're confident that you complete that repair yourself, here's a video that shows how to replace the igniter in a typical gas oven: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/repair-guide/how-to-replace-a-gas-range-oven-igniter . Unplug the range and shut off the gas supply before replacing the igniter. Make sure that you position the igniter in the same way that the original igniter was installed. We hope this information helps. If you need more assistance, let us know.
hi. my oven need to be ignite using matches. but there is no flame comes out at the tiny hole (gas burner) .. only at the starting point where i put my match.. why there no flame around the gas burner??
I replaced the oven igniter and the new one turns red. When I turn the oven on it lights but the flames coming out of the gas bar are at half or less normal. The oven is taking forever to heat up to a high temperature. Any advice. Is there anything inside the oven that would cause the gas going to the line to be reduced?
Let us know the model of your range so we can see the type of gas components your oven has. Here are some tips that may help: Check the surface burners to see if they're getting the right amount of gas. If surface burners have weak flames, then check the gas supply going to your range. Make sure the gas cut off valve going to your range is fully open. You may need to have your gas service provider check gas pressure going to your range if the gas cut off valve is fully open and gas supply to the range is weak. If the surface burners work properly, then check the oven service cut off valve on the pressure regulator if your range has that device. Some ranges have a service cut off valve on the pressure regulation that shuts off the gas supply to the oven (but not the surface burners). Make sure that valve is fully open. To see that service cut off valve, look on page 4 of the Installation Guide in this link: www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/79077442800-kenmore-parts-manual . If your range doesn't have that type of service valve or the valve is fully open, check to see if the broil burner in your oven works properly (if your oven has a broil burner). If the broil burner works properly, then a damaged/clogged bake burner tube or faulty safety gas valve is likely preventing the bake burner to heat properly. We hope this information helps. If not, give us more details about the problem (and the model number of your range).
Problems with the gas supply, a bad gas pressure regulator, wiring failures or a bad safety gas valve can prevent an oven burner from lighting. Let us know the model number of your range and details about the problem (such as whether the igniter glows). We'll try to help you with troubleshooting tips once we receive more information about the failure.
My GE takes much too long to pre-heat, I did change the igniter, still the same :-( Suddenly weeks later all OK. Heats like it should = very fast. But a few months later it's doing it again! Takes 40 min to get to 350!!! Please help, thanks
Thanks for letting us know the model number of your range. Pull the bottom panel out of the oven as shown at :50 in the video. Start the oven in the bake mode and see if the igniter glows and the burner lights. If the burner lights, then this intermittent failure may be difficult to diagnose and fix because the electronic control, igniter and safety gas valve are all working at times in the oven. If the igniter glows but the oven doesn’t light within 60 seconds, then a failed igniter is likely causing the oven heating failure. A bad safety gas valve could also prevent the burner from lighting but the safety gas valve rarely fails. You can test the safety gas valve by measuring resistance through the bake burner connections on that valve. Unplug the range and allow the oven to cool before checking that resistance using a multimeter. The meter should measure 1 to 1.2 ohms through the safety gas valve. Replace the safety gas valve if your meter doesn’t measure resistance in that range through the valve. If the safety gas valve is good, you may need to replace the oven igniter again. When you replace the igniter, make sure that you don’t touch the igniter element with your fingers because oils on your fingers can contaminate the element and cause the igniter to fail prematurely. If the igniter doesn’t glow or doesn’t keep glowing long enough to ignite the burner, then the bake relay on the control is likely bad and you’ll need to replace the electronic control board. We hope these tips help. Let us know if you need more assistance.
I don't know why, but I feel like I could have a cup of coffee with this guy. Helpful, well explained, easy to understand..and reminded me my jack if all trade uncles back home.
Thanks for the flattering feedback about Wayne. We're glad to hear that his practical approach to DIY troubleshooting is appreciated.
Just wanted to say Thank You. I was pulling my hair out with a broken oven and your video really helped me out. Replaced the igniter just like you explained and I now have a meatloaf cooking in my repaired oven. Thank You.
This man is a gift to society and the world.
Thanks! This video saved me hundreds of dollars. Instead of a service call and highly marked up parts I ordered an ignitor on Amazon and fixed the oven in a few minutes.
Because of this video. I was able to find out that the reason my oven wouldn't preheat, was because of a bad igniter. I followed all the tips, ordered a new one, replaced and fixed the issue. Our oven works as good as new! Thank you for posting this easy to follow video.
Solved my problem. The Igniter was glowing hot but the stove wouldn't heat so I was confused. Replaced the igniter and boom everything works great. Thank you, for educating me.
Just wanted to thank you for this video, it was indeed helpful and saved me a lot of money hiring a repair guy. You nailed my problem exactly, ordered the part, installed it and now working perfectly. Cheers!
I need an ignitor and the repair co. Wants 225.00 I replaced it 8 yrs ago for 165.00..I'm looking for part myself.
This is exactly what a troubleshooting video should be. Very well done by the man presenting and whomever put the video together
I don't know what it is, but I like this guy. I would sit there and be like, " I wonder if Wayne would know how to make a fan that opens up like a flower when you turn it on and closes like one when you turn it off(Specifically random, I know)." And then he would know how to make an awesome flower fan and have more interesting ideas for it.
A faulty bottom ignitor was exactly what was wrong with my oven not heating properly. At first, I was skeptical because my ignitor was glowing fairly bright, but apparently it was not glowing bright enough to open the gas safety valve to allow the burner to light. I removed the ignitor by unscrewing the two screws and unplugging it from the rear. I then checked it with a voltmeter and it had approximately 180 ohms. The actual part of the ignitor that lights, can best be described as what looks like a black strip of sandpaper, with a shiny or reflective bass to it. Upon inspecting my old ignitor, I saw that only about half of the black portion was still shiny and reflective. I purchased a new one on Amazon for $17, and it was an exact replacement with the same connector attached. All areas of the piece inside the ignitor that looks like a black strip of sandpaper on the new ignitor were shiny and reflective, with no dull or burnt out portions on it. Prior to installing it, I checked it with a voltmeter and it had approximately 170 ohms. After I installed it, it got brighter than my previous ignitor, and the burner fired up about 30 seconds later. This was a very easy fix and only took about 15 minutes. You can do this!
Thank you so much. I replaced the ignitor and realized there was a service shut off valve. Flipped it and it fired right up.
I feel like this man watches way to many useless blabbering videos. Goes from problem to solution then how to right after another. Bravo, and thanks for the help.
Very helpful video. I was coming to the conclusion that because the igniter was glowing my problem must’ve been with the safety gas valve but I changed my mind based on your video. And you were right it was the igniter.
Thanks for letting us know what you found. We're glad to hear that you fixed the problem and that our video helped.
Thank you ! Thank you! Giving us the ohm reading to expect made a big difference! I had replaced the ignitor already with a new one and still no workie! Control board seemed fine and I was just perplexed as there is really not much else to these things,. Voltage was there from the switch so I am like, what! After knowing what to expect from a good one I decided to check my broiler ignitor and got the correct reading. Swapped it into the oven position and boom! Looks like they sent me a bad replacement part is it was practically open as well. That was not good or expected but knowing what the readings should be for this part and the regulator gives me a lot more confidence when things don't work on any range.
Thank you for the explanation! I was able to replace the igniter easy. My oven works again, my wife is happy!
This is wonderfrul! THANK YOU! my wife was online ordering igniters and the emergency gas to the oven was shut off. SAVED US $$! I would not have checked since the burners were working. You learn something everyday.
My igniter glowed but stove would not light. Swapped it with the one from the broiler and all is good. Glad you mentioned this in the video
Anyone changing there ignitor and it fails after a day or month. Note the are super fragile, and you can not touch the new one with your fingers
OMG!!! First tutorial I found mentioning the "Service cut-off valve" 0:36. I didn't know even that existed. You saved me a ton of money man. Acquired an used range not long ago and I was going to replace the broil and baker igniters thinking they were defective. I thought my igniters didn't probably glow strong enough to trigger the safety gas valve. After watching the start of the video I immediately ran to the back of my range and there I found it. My oven "cut-off switch" turned off. I just turned it on and oven is now working like a charm 😊😊. THANK YOU WAYNE!!!!!!
We're glad to hear that you fixed the problem and that our video helped. Thanks for letting us know what you found.
I replaced the igniter even though it was glowing bright and it had a resistance of 175 ohms. The new igniter had a resistance of 115 ohms and I was fairly certain that this would NOT correct the problem. Boy, was I wrong! The oven fired right up!! Thank you Wayne!
Very quick and to the point. Thank you for taking the time to make this quick and very informative video. Well done and a great help
thanks for the clear and logical summation of possible problems with our cold oven.
Helped me solve my oven problem. Swapped the broiler igniter into the oven untile the replacement arrives. Thanks!
Love the video. Very good information. I got halfway through and was convinced today video is all I need to fix my oven that won’t heat the oven although the burners works fine.
I bought multimeter and can’t wait to get home and do some man work.
Yea!!!
A little over two years ago, I had the 'glowing but not heating enough' problem, bought and installed a new igniter, and all was well-until now. Suddenly the igniter isn't glowing at all, and nothing happens when the oven's turned on. The oven light works, which I presume means the oven's getting electricity (and no breaker is tripped). Not sure if I should order another igniter and try replacing again. Because the oven is built in, I can't check anything on the back of it (at least, I don't know how to). Could be the oven is old enough it's just given up the ghost entirely. Oy.... Anyway, thanks for this video, which really is worthwhile.
I fixed my problem after watching your video , you are the best ! Thank you very much !
This video was very helpful, thank you. Helped me get the job done.
We're glad to hear that our video helped you. Thanks for letting us know.
We are finish with the servicing of the stove and the unit is working like new.
Thank you
Fantastic video, thank you! Was worried it was a gas problem when it was going on and off. Replaced ignitor as you said and voila! working oven. That would have certainly fooled me if not for your help. Appreciate it very much!
People say the igniter isn’t “hot” enough, but that’s likely not the case. The igniter can get plenty hot, but the resistance through it has gotten to a point that it does not provide enough amperage to make the safety valve open. That valve needs to see a minimum level of amperage to know that the igniter is hot enough to light the gas. I like the suggestion to swap the baking igniter with the broiler igniter and see if it works. If it does, it proves it was the igniter.
Do you happen to know what the amperages draw should normally be?
@@enduringpromise No I don't the specific amperage that would open the valve. I was about to replace one in my oven when I made my first comment. Was planning to swap the igniters to check, but of course they were very different types, and wouldn't work. I didn't bother to see what the amp draw was before replacing, but it was still red hot. Once the igniter was replaced, it started right up, valve opened and flowed gas which ignited and the oven heated up. I got mine from a legit parts e-tailer (Parts Dr) and it was about $180. I didn't trust I'd get the right model on Amazon or that it would last more than a year.
Thank you. This is a perfect video
This is extremely helpful and thankfully brief.
Lmao this guy is great, "here's a video on how'to do it" shows a 3 second clip.
Hahaha! Right?!
The only video that got the job done! Thanks dude your badass!
Your great! Easily explains things to wannabe fix it guys like myself. GUYS LIKE YOURSELF is the sole reason I still shop Sears even if that dumbass CEO is purposely trying to destroy an American Icon. Thank you Sir!
Very helpful, detailed and thorough video. Thank you nice job!
Have a Frigidaire Gas oven (BGGF3042KFE) top & broiler all work fine, bake will not work. Igniter wasn't turning red, so I ordered one from you. Installed it and oven worked the first time. Hasn't worked since. So checked all the connections, couldn't get it to work on "bake". Ordered a new control board and installed it. Oven still will not work on "bake". The igniter still will not turn red. Only thing left is the gas valve. Don't feel comfortable replacing it. Can't locate a repairman that will come out to replace it.
I replace igniter and it works now. But when I fire it up over blow out like old furnace and then stay on for min then shut off
Very helpful and well done! Thank you!
oven burner only lights partially. is there a separate gas safety valve for the broiler. It lights fine
This was an excellent explanation!-- Thank you!!!
What a Pain In The Ass this solved my simple question after the gas company did some maintenance! All I wanted to know but was not in the owners manual! Thx easy fix!
Should or should not read less the 5 ohms of resistance?
Well done video, it solved my issue, thanks.
I have a Samsung gas range and the oven bake and broil do not work at all but the stove top does work. When I turn on the BAKE setting and set the temp it just sits at 150 and never turns on.... I don’t have the bottom inside cover off so I can’t fully confirm if the igniter is glowing but I’ll take it apart this weekend, any ideas j til then? I think it’s the igniter
I have exact same thing, stove is just a year old
Great job sir.
Desperately in need of assistance. What is the problem with my stove where when you turn on the burner the flame is normal height? But if you turn on a second or third burner at the same time the flame from the 1st burner lowers to a minimum. And the other burners also only get a very low flame
What you're describing seems to be a gas supply problem or possibly a bad pressure regulator on the range.
I have a double oven where neither top nor bottom seems to be getting propane supplied to them yet i can see that the electronic ignition is glowing hot on both of them, trying to ignite the incoming gas. i do have propane coming into the range because the stove burners work fine. So if both ovens stopped working together, what is in common to both of them yet would not affect the stove top burners?
Thanks for the great video. I have a Frigidaire FGF379WJCA and when I turn on the oven (not broil), the top ignitor turns red and lights the flame but the bottom ignitor doesn't. I checked the resistance on the bottom ignitor and it is 227ohms with 3.5ohms across the safety gas valve. After about 4-5 minutes of the top flame being lit but before the oven beeps indicating target temperature has been achieved, the top flame goes out and the ignitor dims out, then nothing. Any ideas?
Absolutely great video! Thank you
Extremely helpful video
Great video, but can I suggest you start with check all wiring first since this is the least expensive, and then igniter, valve, and control unit. Again Great video!!
Wayne rules!
Hopefully you can help me fix my Samsung gas oven. I have changed the igniter, the temperature sensor, the control board and it has not made a difference. It will pre heat like it should but after about 20 minutes or so the temp has gone down as much as 100 degrees from the preheat temp of 350. Help
How to diagnose correctly, Thinking the oven sensor was bad, I replaced it. Problem is still there. The oven when turned on (set at 350) surges to above 450. Left alone it will gradually (usually takes 15 to 20 minutes) to go down to the temp wanted. Given the exorbitant cost of an electronic module I have left it as is. Would a different temp sensor possibly cure this?
Not likely. The temperature sensor is likely working properly because the control eventually maintains oven temperature at the set temperature.
The touch pad on the oven is not working. When I touch the "Bake" or another control it simply does not respond!
That was very helpful!
I smell gas when I turn on my oven, and it doesn't light even 5 min after turning it on. I light it manually but the flame is about 1/2 the strength of what it normally should be? Is this a faulty igniter not reaching its correct temperature?
We recommend that you shut off the gas supply to the oven and stop using it until a service technician diagnoses and repairs the oven. You shouldn't be able to manually light the oven burner in an oven that uses a glow bar igniter systems like the one shown in this video. The safety gas valve should only open if the igniter gets hot enough to allow enough electrical current to flow through the safety gas valve to trip the safety valve switch. We recommend that you have a service technician examine and repair the oven because your symptoms indicate possibly dangerous failures in the igniter, gas valve and related components such as wiring, burner and gas supply tubing. We hope this advice helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
Grrrat video!
Burners have gas and light but oven does not neathier does the igniters light
Hello I have a Frigidaire FGB24S5DCA oven and the broiler works (both top and bottom igniters glow) however, when tried to bake there is no gas coming out. Also, the first time or I should say when I noticed the issue the kitchen smelled like gas (I checked the lines for leaks and everything seemed fine). Gas smell went away after turning it off and never any smell ever since. This was like 2 weeks ago. Can you please tell me if the problem is most likely the bottom igniter?
Yes. According to the symptoms you describe, replacing the bottom igniter will likely fix the bake burner ignition failure. If you replace the bottom igniter and bake burner still won't ignite, then a failed safety valve could be causing the problem.
Sears PartsDirect is there a way to reset the safety valve ?
@@imim4136 No. The safety valve is actuated by a bi-metal sensor disc that opens the valve when enough electrical current flows through the valve to heat the metal and warp the disc to open the valve and allow gas to flow to the burner. As the igniter heats up to ignition temperature, the resistance of the igniter decreases and allows more current to flow to the safety valve which eventually heats the safety valve disc to a point where it warps and opens the valve to allow gas to flow to the burner. The safety valve rarely fails because it is a simple bi-metal device. Even though the igniter glows, it's likely not reaching a temperature that is allowing enough current to flow through the safety valve to warp the disc. When the igniter glows but the burner doesn't ignite, replacing the igniter usually fixes the ignition problem. There's only a slight chance that that the safety valve failed. We hope this additional information helps. Let us know if you need further assistance.
Sears PartsDirect Problem solved thanks a lot!
Very helpful. Thank you.
thanks that was helpful
Would these same trouble shooting items apply if burners and broiler work but oven doesn’t?
You don't need to check the gas supply because the surface burners and broiler work but the rest of the troubleshooting is the same.
Thanks for the helpful video!
To check if the igniter is getting hot enough on an oven that takes a long time to light can I just while checking the igniter light a match or use a torch to heat the area of the igniter? If the gas then come on I could deduce that the igniter is not getting hot enough on its own right and therefore needs to be replaced?
No. Heating the igniter in that manner can damage it. A technician would measure live amp draw through the wires going to the igniter to determine whether the igniter is getting hot enough to allow enough current to flow to the safety valve. Most people don't have a meter that can measure amp draw and that live amperage check is dangerous if not conducted properly. Replacing the igniter fixes the problem that you're describing in most situations. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
Thank you for the response, I'm replacing the igniter and will go from there. Also the burners on the top of the range release gas and I can hear and see sporadic sparking but it doesn't seem to be enough to light the gas - I use a lighter instead. I would like to fix that. Do you have a video on that? Thx.
@@Hizenbird Although we don't have a video for fixing surface burners that won't ignite, we do have written and illustrated repair help for that type of problem here: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/symptom/gas-range-repair/1235943/gas-burner-won-t-spark-or-ignite/ran00025587999998988 . Unplug the range and check the igniter electrodes for spills that may be covering the electrode or burner head. Here's a video on how to clean the burner head on a typical range: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/article/how-to-clean-grates-and-burners-on-a-gas-cooktop-video . Be sure to clean the ignition port as shown in that video if you have the same type of burner heads as the ones shown in that video. If you hear ticking when you turn a burner knob to ignite a surface burner, then the spark igniter switches on the burner valves are likely okay. If the spark module isn't sending spark current to the igniter electrodes consistently, then you likely need to replace the spark module. We hope this troubleshooting information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know and give us the model number of your range.
Replaced my igniter and that worked for a few months - now back to igniter not glowing at all -- control board/panel issue?
We recommend that you unplug the range and check continuity through the igniter using a multimeter. If you measure infinite resistance though the igniter then you’ll need to replace it again. Don’t touch the igniter element with bare fingers because oil from your fingers can cause the igniter element to fail within a few months after you install it. If the igniter is okay, check continuity through the igniter circuit from the control board (with the range still unplugged). If your meter measures infinite resistance (no continuity) through the igniter circuit then a bad safety valve or wiring failure is preventing the igniter from glowing. If you do measure continuity through the igniter circuit, then you’ll likely need to replace the control board if the igniter won’t glow when you start the oven in the bake mode. We hope these tips help. If you need further assistance, let us know. If you get to a point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair the range, you can schedule service here: www.searshomeservices.com/repair
excellent video. thank you very much!
link to parts
Hi. I have the Kenmore model 790. Surface burners are working. All lights and display are working. Both oven and broil ignitors won't glow. When Testing resistance on control board, should one probe go to black wire on control board and the other to the pin (#6) that goes to ignitor? If so, I'm reading 0.09. Bad board??
Let us know the full model number of your Kenmore 790 range if the following advice doesn't help. It's unlikely (but remotely possible) that both igniters would fail at the same time. You can check resistance through each igniter as described in the video (also in this written version www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/article/oven-wont-heat-troubleshooting-gas-range-problems-video ). If both igniters are bad, replace both igniters. If the igniters are okay, check continuity through the safety gas valve. If the gas valve is okay, check the temperature sensor. You should measure around 1080 ohms through the temperature sensor at room temperature. If all of those components are okay, then you may need to replace the electronic control board.
@@searspartsdirect Thermostat 1075; boiler ignitor 172; oven ignitor 306; gas safety valve 2.2 - 3.8. Using a Centric multimeter. Kenmore Gas oven. Model #: 790.72333013; serial #: VF20458105
@@patniven9334 The resistance values that you provided seem to indicate that the components are good. We recommend checking the wiring. Make sure you measure those same resistance readings through the wires that connect to the control board. If you do, then you'll likely need to replace the control board ( www.searspartsdirect.com/product/2rtxb86hep-0022-628/id-316462803 ). If you replace the control board, you may also need the overlay unless you can peel the old one off and install it on the new one.
What is the cause of a pressure valve being open on the gas valve? I know they are on hot water tanks but whats the point of having one on a gas valve? Mine keeps tripping.
Your question seems to be about the gas supply going to the range. If that's so, then you'll need to have a plumber examine and repair that issue. If you're describing an internal failure in the range, let us know the model number of your range and additional details about the failure you're describing.
My oven is gas and tripping the panel breaker after 10 mins of full temp. Nothing I can find will help me with this. The inginter is working and oven comes to temp. like it should. Any thoughts?
A short circuit in the wiring of the oven circuit would cause the panel breaker to trip. Unplug the oven and check wiring if possible (or have a service technician check the wiring). A faulty panel breaker could be tripping even though excessive current isn't flowing through the circuit. A technician can check current flow through the appliance to see if current spikes when the panel breaker trips. We hope this information helps. If you need more assistance, let us know.
which sounds more likely the culprit. kitchenaid gas range. suddenly just quit making heat in the oven. *the top broiler appeared to glow and heat got to about 268 out of the 350 i set it to. no gas to the oven unit. tried the burners, no click, no gas. *checked water heater, and yes gas is flowing great*. oven has been in place for almost 2 years now btw. im thinking either control board or safety valve, as it was pretty sudden. after about 20 minutes * i thought it was cooking* i noticed the low temp, checked and saw no flame, did my burner test. so i shut off the oven for a moment. turned it back on, same story. well i already had chops part cooked so i figured id let it low temp them. another twenty or so go by and i hear the oven suddenly trying to click to light. it doesn't succeed but now the burners work. board or valve more likely culprit? i intend to test both but it will be my first range repair so i want to get it right. *its my own btw*
Let us know the model number of your KitchenAid gas range and we'll provide some troubleshooting steps that should help you determine the cause of these problems. We need the model number because some KitchenAid ranges use different ignition systems and gas control systems than the one shown in the video. We’ll be able to see technical information for the ignition system and gas control system using the model number for your KitchenAid gas range.
my 2 yr old GE JGBS10DEK1BB gas range is not cooking.. should be baked in 1hr but not even done in 3hrs... I think it tripped off to a lower temp. I can see it ignites and burns back but still its not cooking. Can you help me pls?
My broiler and range top works. The ignitor glows - and seems to turn on the gas safety valve - which release gas. BUT, the burner doesn't burn so I'm getting gas flowing all over until I shut off the oven. Help!
Based on those details, we recommend that you have a service technician examine and repair the range. The burner tube may be clogged or damaged-preventing the burner from igniting. The burner also won’t ignite if the igniter is damaged or isn’t positioned properly on the burner tube. It’s best to have a technician check those issues and repair the range so unignited gas doesn’t keep flowing when you try to use the oven.
Great video!! Super informative!!
Igniter will start burner with oven floor cover off but not on, why?
What if.... igniter comes on some times but only for about 3 seconds. I hear a click in the controls board area when it turns off. F4 error code. Temperature sensor has already been replaced. Interestingly if I brush off the igniter it comes on more often.
Let us know the model number of your range. The F4 code on many gas ranges indicates that the temperature sensor is bad. Because you already replace the temperature sensor, that part is almost certainly okay. Wiring between the temperature sensor and the electronic oven control board could be causing the control board to detect a bad temperature sensor. Unplug the range and measure resistance through the sensor from the wires that plug into the control board using a multimeter. Most oven temperature sensors have resistance of 1050 ohms at room temperature. If your meter measures infinite resistance or near 0 resistance, then you'll likely need to repair or replace the oven temperature sensor wire harness. Based on your details, you may also need to replace the oven igniter. We hope this information helps. If you need more help, reply with the model number and additional details.
So, I also have a Cuisinart DCC-1200 it stopped turning on. I did the unplug and wait for 24 even a weeks but somethings shot. I would assume it was after leaving it on the whole day for the coffee to stay warm. What can we suspect from this one?
Make sure that the electrical outlet that you have the coffee maker plugged into works. You can check the electrical outlet by plugging a different item into the outlet to see if the outlet works. If the outlet works, then a broken power cord, wiring failure or failed internal parts could be preventing the coffee maker from powering up. We don't have internal parts or technical information for that model of Cuisinart coffee maker so we recommend that you contact Cuisinart for help with parts and internal failures. Here's a link for the Cuisinart website that has contact information: www.cuisinart.com/
thanks buddy!!
great and helpful! i love his accent! :)
rollintrollin123
PSEG tech first said it was the igniter. He changed it but oven still won't heat.
They sent another service tech who said it was the switch. The oven is pretty old and they're having trouble locating the part.
Where is the switch located on a gas oven? Is he talking about the thermostat?
Two switches could be preventing the oven burner from igniting. If the igniter glows when you start the oven in the bake mode, then the switch that the service tech is describing is likely the safety gas valve that has a current-sensitive switch. That current-sensitive switch opens the oven burner gas valve when the igniter heats to ignition temperature and allows enough current to flow to the safety gas valve switch to trip that current-sensitive switch. If the igniter doesn't glow, then the switch in the oven thermostat is likely preventing the oven from heating because that switch isn't sending any current to the igniter and safety gas valve. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know the model number of your range and additional details about the failure.
@@searspartsdirect Very helpful. Thank you.
Tappan model no. 363272 .
I'll have them take another look at it and follow your suggestions.
I'll let you know to outcome.
My Kenmore gas oven made a click then popped the breaker. After that it won't heat up. I changed out the igniter but the new igniter won't light either. Any thoughts?
Your symptoms indicate that a relay on the electronic control board likely shorted out. Unplug the range and access the control board as shown in this video www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/repair-guide/how-to-replace-a-gas-range-oven-control-board . Check the components on the control board and look for burn marks. If the control board is damaged, replace it. If the control board looks okay, check the wiring between the control board and the igniter for damaged insulation that may have shorted to metal inside the range cabinet. We hope this advice helps. Let us know if you need further assistance.
@@searspartsdirect Thanks for the quick reply. The broiler and cook top still work. Still thinking control board?
@@searspartsdirect any opinion after the additional info I gave you?
Thank you!
I'm getting gas and the igniter glows, but it won't heat. I can smell the gas and see the igniter glow. But no heat. What can be the problem?
Even though the igniter glows, it may not be getting hot enough to allow the right amount of current to flow through the safety valve and ignite the burner. Replacing the igniter will likely fix the problem that you're describing.
Perfection
Wow this exactly what i was looking for
We're glad to hear that you like the video. Thanks for letting us know.
thanks for the help!!!!
Devil Wilson i
Devil Wilson l
Lisa Steppl
Devil Wilson MP m
Devil Wilson
Hello, thank you, great video!!! After I swapped the igniter, now it turns easily on, but when I I try to turn the oven off, by turning the knob to off, the flame turns to very small flame, but it never turns off unless I turn the gas at the shutoff valve off. Any ideas?
That's a dangerous problem that should be diagnosed and repaired by a service technician. We recommend that you leave the range's gas supply shut off and have a service technician service the range before using it again. The service technician may find that the oven's safety gas valve isn't shutting off properly-causing the a small amount of gas to keep flowing to the burner after you shut off the oven.
Great explanation 😃👍🏻
I have a new caple range. My problem is the oven takes a while to switch on them after a short while it goes off again what could be the problem pls ?
We'd love to help you but we don't have product information and technical support information for Caple ranges.
Sears PartsDirect
Aww that a shame
Thank you for your quick response
#blessed by this wisdom. Saved my bacon
Thank goodness!
The flame in our oven goes on and off before even reaching the temp. It takes over an hour to preheat. The igniter isn't the issue because it lights the oven in about a minute. The issue is the flame isn't consistent enough to keep the oven hot. What could it be?
Based on the symptoms you describe, a weak igniter still could be preventing the oven from heating properly-not enough electrical current is flowing to the safety gas valve to keep the valve open and the oven burner lit as needed. Because you said the oven eventually heats to the set temperature, it sounds like the sensor, burner and gas supply are likely all okay.
Loose wiring connections could possibly cause the same symptoms. Unplug the range and check the wiring connections on the igniter, safety gas valve and control. If the wiring connections are okay, then you’ll likely need to replace the igniter.
If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair the range, you can schedule service here: www.searshomeservices.com/.
How long should it take for the oven to ignite? Anyone know? My ignitor glows, and it gets slightly warm inside the oven after a couple minutes, but no flames, no actual heat. I've never had a gas oven before, so this is all a little bit new to me. I'm pretty sure it lit when we first got the gas turned on about 2 weeks ago, so and it hasn't been used in between so I don't see how it could just stop working like that. Am I maybe just not waiting long enough? I get a little freaked out just leaving it on without it lighting because I'm worried it'll open the gas valve and start leaking gas without actually igniting, and then blow up or something.
I have no idea if that's even actually possible though, so if anyone knows, I'd really appreciate it.
The burner should ignite within a minute or two after the igniter begins glowing. The safety gas valve won't open unless the igniter glows hot enough to ignite the gas so gas won't leak while the igniter glows. Even though the igniter glows, it's likely not getting hot enough to safely ignite the gas so the safety gas valve isn't opening. You can likely fix the oven by having a service technician replace the igniter. If you're confident that you complete that repair yourself, here's a video that shows how to replace the igniter in a typical gas oven: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/repair-guide/how-to-replace-a-gas-range-oven-igniter . Unplug the range and shut off the gas supply before replacing the igniter. Make sure that you position the igniter in the same way that the original igniter was installed. We hope this information helps. If you need more assistance, let us know.
hi. my oven need to be ignite using matches. but there is no flame comes out at the tiny hole (gas burner) .. only at the starting point where i put my match.. why there no flame around the gas burner??
Let us know the model number of your range and we’ll try to provide some help.
The clock is working fine and the gas burners are working. It's just the control panel is dead.
I replaced the oven igniter and the new one turns red. When I turn the oven on it lights but the flames coming out of the gas bar are at half or less normal. The oven is taking forever to heat up to a high temperature. Any advice. Is there anything inside the oven that would cause the gas going to the line to be reduced?
Let us know the model of your range so we can see the type of gas components your oven has. Here are some tips that may help: Check the surface burners to see if they're getting the right amount of gas. If surface burners have weak flames, then check the gas supply going to your range. Make sure the gas cut off valve going to your range is fully open. You may need to have your gas service provider check gas pressure going to your range if the gas cut off valve is fully open and gas supply to the range is weak. If the surface burners work properly, then check the oven service cut off valve on the pressure regulator if your range has that device. Some ranges have a service cut off valve on the pressure regulation that shuts off the gas supply to the oven (but not the surface burners). Make sure that valve is fully open. To see that service cut off valve, look on page 4 of the Installation Guide in this link: www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/79077442800-kenmore-parts-manual . If your range doesn't have that type of service valve or the valve is fully open, check to see if the broil burner in your oven works properly (if your oven has a broil burner). If the broil burner works properly, then a damaged/clogged bake burner tube or faulty safety gas valve is likely preventing the bake burner to heat properly. We hope this information helps. If not, give us more details about the problem (and the model number of your range).
@@searspartsdirect The problem seems to have cleared up after I tried another igniter. Maybe the new igniter was defective I'm not sure. Thank you.
@@aaronabner4317 We glad to hear that you resolved the problem. Thanks for letting us know.
What if you replaced the ignator, and still not lighting?
Problems with the gas supply, a bad gas pressure regulator, wiring failures or a bad safety gas valve can prevent an oven burner from lighting. Let us know the model number of your range and details about the problem (such as whether the igniter glows). We'll try to help you with troubleshooting tips once we receive more information about the failure.
Igniter is between 1,000 and 2,500 not 10 and 2,500. To clarify????
My GE takes much too long to pre-heat, I did change the igniter, still the same :-( Suddenly weeks later all OK. Heats like it should = very fast. But a few months later it's doing it again! Takes 40 min to get to 350!!! Please help, thanks
Let us know the model number of your GE range and we’ll try to offer some additional troubleshooting tips.
Thank you = JGBP32DEM1WW
Thanks for letting us know the model number of your range. Pull the bottom panel out of the oven as shown at :50 in the video. Start the oven in the bake mode and see if the igniter glows and the burner lights. If the burner lights, then this intermittent failure may be difficult to diagnose and fix because the electronic control, igniter and safety gas valve are all working at times in the oven. If the igniter glows but the oven doesn’t light within 60 seconds, then a failed igniter is likely causing the oven heating failure. A bad safety gas valve could also prevent the burner from lighting but the safety gas valve rarely fails. You can test the safety gas valve by measuring resistance through the bake burner connections on that valve. Unplug the range and allow the oven to cool before checking that resistance using a multimeter. The meter should measure 1 to 1.2 ohms through the safety gas valve. Replace the safety gas valve if your meter doesn’t measure resistance in that range through the valve. If the safety gas valve is good, you may need to replace the oven igniter again. When you replace the igniter, make sure that you don’t touch the igniter element with your fingers because oils on your fingers can contaminate the element and cause the igniter to fail prematurely. If the igniter doesn’t glow or doesn’t keep glowing long enough to ignite the burner, then the bake relay on the control is likely bad and you’ll need to replace the electronic control board. We hope these tips help. Let us know if you need more assistance.
My gas oven only works when you turn the control to high any suggestions on the fixing?
Let us know the model number of your gas oven and additional details (mode and temperature setting) and we'll try to help.