How I tune 3D Printers
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- čas přidán 18. 06. 2023
- In this Video, I want to give you a brief overview how I tune my 3D Printers to improve speed and quality! In this first part we will focus on the "must have's" every 3D Printer diy or bought should be calibrated.
Links mentioned in the video:
- Elis Printing Guide: ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
- Klipper Config Checks: www.klipper3d.org/Config_chec...
You want to know what happens behind the scenes? Have a look in my development diary on Hackaday
hackaday.io/project/190348-th...
You want to build a THE 100 by your own? At GitHub you find everything you need
github.com/MSzturc/the100
You want to help me cover my running costs? Feel free to leave a subscription at Patreon
/ the100
You want to see more printed parts by THE 100? Follow me on TikTok where I post all the parts I've printed on THE 100
/ matttheprintingnerd
You want to be part of the community and discuss with other printing enthusiasts over THE 100? Join the Discord community
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#the100 #3dprinting #3dprinter #fast #diy #construction - Věda a technologie
Looking forward to part 2!
good videos, fast info, don't feel like I'm loosing brain cells watching (like other instructional videos) thank you! building my 100 soon!! will report back!
can't wait for part 2
Where is Part 2? especially getting rid of the round edges
Linear Advance is what you want for that I reckon.
Awesome, thanks!
Thank you for a great video.
I am at the moment building the 100 printer.
There is one part in the calibration video I don't get.
After you have leveled the bed you move to the midle, do the paper ting, and move the bed further down and save it as the zero position.
But now every print you make will be that distance to high.
If you measure the Z height on the calibration cube, I think it would be around 0.3mm to high.
I Like to mark the bed screws into 1/4 or 1/8th markings and make sure you know where your zero is to make things super precise. This might also tell you if something isnt level or is bent/warped.
Thx, u r the best!
No part 2?
Good video
Thanks dude!
Great help, thanks
You're welcome ;-)
Thanks for the video, is part 2 out?
8 months now.
Part 2 ???
What is a run current??!!
Hi Matt! Thanks for your great work, I'm definitely thinking of building this printer!
Just one question: do you plan in adding a probe for auto bed leveling?
proper abl would increase the price of the printer by $150-200, since you would need a bigger mainboard, more motor drivers a good abl sensor... currently I don't think it's worth it, but we have already ppl in the community that working on such mods, so checkout our discord
Thanks for sharing! One question, what type of filament did you print with for this calibration? 240mm/s for outer wall is impressive. I assume you've got a great part cooling design. Would love to hear more (maybe in a future video) about how you designed that :)
Yeah I plan to talk about part cooling calibration in part 2, stay tuned!
good info, Thanks!
great video! One thing that has plagued me is once the printer is tuned and you use a different type of filament what are the steps you should take to calibrate that with the filament, or is it doing this all over again for that scenario?
I know what you mean, I plan to do a deeper dive into this topic in the 2nd part.
Could your printers run on fused filaments in the form of pellets or shreds?
What about Flow?
Part 2?
I have t he same vertical lines, that isnt from ringing and it isnt from belts (non 2mm spacing) they look like yours, what can I do? they are mostly on the Y axis
That are vibration artefacts that caused by acceleration/deceleration while printing, you can't complete get rid of them when printing at higher speeds but you could compensate about 90% of them with proper input shaping
@@MattThePrintingNerd I printed my cube at 20mm/s... it still has these same lines
@@hapsti have you managed to fix that?
dose this work wit ender printers?
Yes you might use that guideline also in bedslingers
ich glaub er ist deutsch, 4:35
Part 2?