Make Your Models POP! Easy Beginner Weathering Tutorial for a Pinwash on Model Tanks
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- čas přidán 5. 07. 2019
- Let's make your models pop by applying a pinwash! This effect is probably the most effective weathering technique, and is also one of the easiest to execute. Enjoy!
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DISCLAIMER: I am not paid to promote any specific products or brands; I just use the products I find work best for me through my experiences. There is no reason for me to promote a bad product, as then I would not enjoy using it, not like the result on my model, and not be proud of publicizing it in a video. There's also no point in me doing this to keep up relations with a company if the only benefit would be getting more of the same products that I didn't like. I have not used every product out there, but from what I have used, I keep using the products I like, and that's why I use them in my videos. You can use whatever other products you would like to and you can feel that they are better - that is your opinion, and is perfectly fine by me, thus I hope that feeling is reciprocated. - Jak na to + styl
Ok dude that fact that u showed how to make ur own with pant n thinner is SO useful, thank you!
A refreshingly clear, concise, well explained tutorial, with great camera work. Thanks for making it!
All the comments I've read say pretty much what I wanted to say, so it seems you've covered most everything that needed to be said. Thanks and I look forward to your next video.
As always, a clean and simple tutorial...
More please...
That was a quick and easy demo, very helpful insight into your work process :)
I would like to give a massive thank you for doing this video, I now know exactly what I was doing wrong, pretty much everything.
I had the wash too thick, brush too big, didn't let it dry long enough, used too much thinner to clean up
This has now set me right to try again today, fingers crossed it'll turn out better than yesterday.
Thank you 👍
Did it Work?
@@philiph.2128 yes thank you, not as good as I would have liked but a vast improvement on what I did before, I need a lot more practice to get it as good as in the video.
@@allanatwick1606 i will try it out on a Modell in a few Days for the First Time, wish me luck
@@philiph.2128 fingers crossed for you, my brushes were too big so getting appropriate sizes helped lots
@@allanatwick1606 iv'e Got a small brush, so i think that will Not be the problem
A basic technique but one every modeler needs to master! You kept it short and simple, very well done 👍
excellent video and makes weathering easy. always found weathering on alot of videos quite hard and fustrating especially knowing what equipment to have for the intended effect. always good to see friendly, down to earth videos to get more people into the RC hobby
awesome as always Evan, simplest techniques are sometimes the best 👍🏻
that's what i like, straight to the point on how, why to use and application of the product, great tutorial
+Ken Sturrock thank you! I'm glad you liked it.
Simple technic for great effect. Thanks for your very clear and concise tutorial. I'm building models for years, but it's very interesting technics you're using with impresive results.
Excellent tutorial! Best explanation of a pin wash I have seen. Thanks!
Absolutely terrific how-to. Thanks for making. Dave
So much good information and great camera work too - a very professional and useful video.
There’s no waffle or wastage here, just a well put together vlog. I can’t think of one thing that could make it any better.
Well Done 10/10. A Masterclass.
Well done. Awesome video. Really good tutorial Evan
Excellent... Can't wait for another model build!!
Thanks for the informative video, very helpful as I have only done one pinwash and struggled with it , look forward to the next one
Thanks man great vid, filled in the gaps the other tutorials left out 👌
Awesome tips here! Can't wait to put them to use in future builds
So simple yet so effective. Great advice.
Excellent introduction for me as a beginner, thanks!
Panzermeister36 good work and thank you for sharing i really love this technique it's absolutely perfect for model railroad equipment looking forward to more tutorials from you on this tank build I hope you touch upon dust effects on this green tank I need a tuneup thanks again
Your videos are extremely well done. Not only do you create excellent models, which it is clear you are passionate about, you take the time to document your work. As a former Art teacher I would have loved to have you as a student! Keep up the excellent work, on the bench AND online.
Thank you very much, Jason!
You’re channel is AWESOME!
Ive been using that panel liner used for Gundam, Im going to advance and start weathering correctly. Very good tutorial
Great video. Learned tons. Thank you.
Thank you for the tips, very informative, really enjoyed.
Great tutorial Evan, ohh the backhand on the acrylics..that was good because it did drive the point home. 🤣 I'm going to try this on my next tank build.
Fantastic. I can’t wait to try this out. Thanks!
Truly revealing look forwards to visiting again.
great video, and great explained, wow just great work from you.👍
Thank you Thomas :)
Thankyou so much...as a beginner this is simply awesome!
Well presented.
As always great work!
This is a very good video on Pin washes. Well done!
Thank you very much :D
Valuable information here.So I subscribed. Thank you.
Thank you, very informative video .
Asum you explain everything great. This will make it easier to try . Thanks alot
Well done Sir! Thank you for this video.
Nice work mate thanks for sharing till next time have a good one
Excellent summary
awesome vid as always
Excellent advice.
Very interesting and useful video !
Nothing but awesome.👍👍👍
Finally a good simple tutorial
Very nice vid. I'm coming back to modelling after a long period away; it's amazing how much you forget, or how many techiniques need a memory refresh or a brush up. Would like to see a vid on the whitewash too.
I'm assuming you're a Rush fan considering your user name?
@@SmallSoldier Yeah unfortunately (or fortunately) so, depending on your point of view I guess.
No for the good man, Rush is Epic! Too bad they're caput. I proudly sport the classic Rush t-shirt in one of my videos.
Very useful thanks
thanks for the help
I found this invaluable thank you.
Glad you enjoyed!
That was the video i was looking for....thanks...
My weathering test subject is model that I didn’t paint didn’t do any thing at all just assembled it so I think that’s a good test subject!
Great video Panzerdude ;)
This is a awesome, good, well done (and other adjectives) video... at least to me. Cheers
Thank you!
Thanks I'm going to try this with my Acrylic paints (it's all I have) on a Space 1999 Eagle model.
Have you tried the OPR technique where instead of layering multiple filters and washes you just do everything at once? Using the oil paint to color modulate, filter, wash, and highlight all in one step as you work in small sections and move around the vehicle? I'm more of a traditionalist where one layers multiple effects one step at a time while working on the whole vehicle all at once. But have been checking out a lot of Rinaldi's stuff after hearing you mention him a few times with regard to hairspray chipping
WOOt! Thx buddy!
I'd like to see the whitewash video .. been trying and failing to do winter camo for quite some time. and the vallejo chipping medium doesnt seem to work right for me either - So another way would be great :D
Thank you Panzermeister36 , I to would like A dust effects video .
What do you guys think is the most effective weathering technique? Also, if you have any tips for others trying out the pinwash, post them down below!
I started using streaking effects and filters recently, and they add soooo much for the model. I use pre-made stuff for the most part, and they help immensely.
Great video! Id really like to apply this method to some Bolt Action US tanks. I'm using Vallejo Model paints which have rather chalky matte finish. My question is are you using [or would you] use a varnish before the pin wash or apply the wash directly over the paints? Thank you for your time and videos!
Hey man, can I ask what compressor and tank you use or what you would recommend? I'm just starting out so don't want to break the bank but want something quality. Thanks, and thanks for all the great videos!
The CZcams preview caption says you are “Parents or Mice 36”. 😂
+TheSaturnV well I did kind of mumble so I'm surprised they can even decipher that much :D
For acrylic paint: use a pin or two of dish soap, equal parts water, and then add the color of your choice. Use a detail brush to catch the blobs… let dry, wipe off and do highlights, and clear coat.
Hi Panzermeister ... many thanks for this nice tutorial :-) ... greetings make*
Thank you very much!
Subscribed to your channel 👍
Thanks heaps
I have a question for you, Panzermeister36 (or for anyone else who reads this). I am almost finished building a Renault FT from WW1 (Takom, 1/16 scale), but as used by the Spanish Army in northern Morocco in the 1920s. I implemented a pinwash on the main body of the tank and the turret following your advice from the present video. This was the first pinwash (or in fact, the first weathering of any kind) that I have ever done on a model kit, and I think it has greatly improved the look of the model. Thanks a lot for all your advice! The problem I have now is that, before making the pinwash, I had first airbrushed the treads with Vallejo Gunmetal Grey (77.720). I have seen several photos of Renault FTs in museums with exactly this color for their treads. But now the tread looks out of place because it is so pristine. It's like someone wearing brand new Armani pants with a torn shirt made out of rags. :-P So I would like to weather the tread. I have been reading a lot about tread weathering in internet. Most of what I have seen deals with mud and rust effects, but I don't want to use mud effects nor rust. I just want a track that has had (modest) wear and tear from scraping against rocks, etc. How would you recommend that I do this? Is this simply a case of chipping? If so, what two colors would you recommend for the shallow chips and for the deeper chips? Or should I do some other kind of weathering altogether? (Ah, and the treads are already permanently glued to the tank, so I would not be able to take them apart to paint separately. Of course, I can do some masking, with care not to mess up the main body.)
I think it would be best to repaint the tracks using a paintbrush with a darker brown-grey colour. Then "drybrush" the raised details and edges of the tracks with the gunmetal colour from earlier. This will give them a worn look.
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks!
Amazing 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you!
no, that T-40 is not cute.
it’s freakin’ adorable.
Great video evan! I was wondering, can you use artist enamel thinner/artist white spirits in place of say the model brander thinner or zippo fluid? Thanks!
+Michael Piakamlue I'm not exactly sure. I think you should be able to, but I would be worried that some artist-level thinners are too strong and might attack your varnish and damage the model. So best to test it out a little bit first to make sure it will work well.
Thanks
have you video about winter camouflage painting, like this tank?
I will be making a tutorial on how I did this very soon! Maybe it will be done for Saturday.
Thank you
Excellent Evan! Cute little tank?... not so much to the poor crews that had to fight in that sucker. LOL. I'd like to see your whitewash techniques, bring_ it_ on!
+Small Soldier it's basically a little boat with a .50 cal for the main gun. Sounds like an effective fighting vehicle to me :D
LOL, sure if your fighting ducks. :-)
It's one of those Russian "you have to be under 5'0" (1.5m) " in order to serve on. Any thing larger and your schlepping a rifle around in a trench.
Excellent Tutorial!!, Can layers of paint be added above the effect already made with oil and enamel products previously? a kind of double or triple chipped effect with a final layer of a washable color like a white. (as if a layer of paint on the previous deterioration had been added due to the urgency of the war situation). Greetings from Argentina!!
Yes, that would be no problem at all! Once dry (after 24 hours for these modelling oil paints...maybe a little longer for artist's oils), the oil paints are pretty durable.
Superb brush control, am quite envious. How long should you leave it to dry before doing more work, eg pigments, without reactivating it?
Usually 24 to 48 hours is fine. I use modelling oil paints so they dry pretty quickly...24 hours is enough.
Great video, thanks for sharing! One question though, do you re-varnish the model after completing the hairspray weathering, and before doing the pin wash?
I don't always varnish since it's not often 100% necessary. However, no harm comes from applying one anyways. I use satin varnish since gloss I find is too smooth for weathering to stick to.
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks PZ36 for replying so quickly. You do some absolutely tremendous work!
What do you think about ak interactive wash for german dark yellow? Basically a darker yellow colour wash, better than a brown wash?
I would like to see the white wash technique. What about doing a video on battle damage?
+CJ Kirkland I have a video on battle damage planned for my T29E3. And the whitewash video will hopefully be up this weekend :)
Hey Panzermeister
I have a bit of a problem
I sprayed my tank model with tamiya TS-80 dull coat and a few days later I tried using enamel thinner to clean the wash I applied
But for some reason it turned the the dull coat white
What can I do to fix the white areas ?
Amazing as always. Can you do something on foliage camo and how to realistically attaching it to a tank? Preferably a German tank. Thnx
That is a good idea! I will look into that soon. I have done that a while ago so it would be cool to try it again in a video. Thank you :)
@@Panzermeister36 cool thnx man
I like this video. Must i apply varnish before the wash? Thanks for the information. From belgium. My english isn't good.
It is a good idea to apply a gloss or semi-gloss varnish before the wash. However it is not always required.
Basically the varnish is to do two things:
1.- protect the base acrylic paints against the thinners in the wash. This is relevant to water-based acrylics like Vallejo or Mig. This is not relevant to alcohol-based or lacquer paints like Tamiya, Gunze, AK Real Color.
2.- provide a smooth surface so that the wash flows into all the details nicely.
You require the varnish if your base paint is susceptible to the thinners in the wash, or if the surface is matte and the wash is not going to flow nicely.
Personally I can achieve a very smooth application of Tamiya acrylics so sometimes I don't even need the varnish, since Tamiya is durable. But, really no harm can come from applying the varnish anyways, so you can always apply the varnish to feel confident.
Hopefully that is clear. Please ask if you have further questions.
I use Acrylic or Lacquer. VMS Satin is my favorite. Enamel varnishes would be attacked by the enamel thinner in the washes.
Any disadvantage to using Enamel weathering over oil?
Can I use water color instead for the paint wash because I don’t have any oil paint
Hi im new to modeling can you apply a pin wash over mr hobby super clear matt or will the enamel thinner react thanks in advance
I know you typically mix oils for your washes... have you tried some of the premixed enamels and do you find they react the same as the oils or do you get a better, longer working time with the oils?
+Cliff Herring they're honestly pretty much the same as oils. I did a model recently and used an enamel wash on it just because "why not?" And it didn't feel really different. I just prefer the control of colour and consistency I get when mixing the wash myself from oils. And oils are cheaper too...
Hi, I’ve been watching your tutorial playlist and learned a lot. But a little confused, because on some you say you don’t gloss or varnish after paint but on this one you do ? Thanks for great videos 👍
I will use a satin or semi-gloss varnish these days before the wash to help it flow more easily.
@@Panzermeister36 ok thanks mate, just wanted to make sure… also do you lock in after each procedure or at the very last when all finished or not at all.. thanks for your help.
No worries. I do not varnish after each step, usually the oil or enamel will dry pretty well after 24 hours. After I complete all the weathering steps -- wash, dust effects, grime, dot filter, etc. -- then I will apply a final matte varnish to protect it from handling, and also to get rid of any shiny gloss that remains. Real vehicles are pretty matte.
@@Panzermeister36 ahh great, thank you very much for taking the time and getting back to me and making things clearer for me.
Loved the dust n dirt tutorial and making it so easy to understand. Thank you buddy 😊
I usually use revell enamel paints for my models. After i apply the wearther and i want to get rid of the acces paint. How do i not damage the primer?
I was under the impression that enamel eats through acrylic paint.
Are you sure it doesn't need a clear coat?
Does this mean i just need oil paint and some oil paint thinner and i can make my wash for enamel painted models?
thanks
when i try to do a pinwash (im new) i used a matt varnish and then my pinwash spreads out like you said, is that solely because of my matt varnish?
What are your thoughts on Tamiya’s Panel Line accent products (Black, Brown, Grey)? Are these enamel pin washes?
Yes they're enamel washes like those from AK, Mig AMMO, Wilder, etc. The Tamiya Panel Liners are very good quality.
Hey Panzerbro, I'm starting a Tiger soon from the Tamiya Early kit. Should I invest in an eduward photoetch?
+Havanadog 7 I would definitely recommend PE for the engine deck vents at least. Aber and others make little sets of that. The full PE sets are a lot of work, and I wouldn't even use all the parts myself...generally some are too small or fiddly and would end up looking worse than plastic detail after I'm done with it! But if you're feeling up to it, then go for it...it will really improve the detail.
Panzermeister36 think I’ll do PE engine grilles and cut fenders out of brass. Thanks for the tip!
Can you apply oil wash on an acrylic painted model?
Hi, What do you use to seal in the pinwashes and streaking when you are done?
+Nick Bromage I don't have to seal them in. I just let them dry. The idea that oils and enamels will be washed away with later effects is a big misconception, unless you're dumping thinner over your model.
hey, do you need to have a semi gloss finish? or can you still make it look nice without it. Thanks :)
It is going to be difficult without it, but it might still be possible.
Quick question what do you use to seal your final paint prior to weathering effects?
I don't always varnish since it's not often 100% necessary. However, no harm comes from applying one anyways. I use satin varnish since gloss I find is too smooth for weathering to stick to.
Mate Huge thanks from My Channel To Yours had to Sub doing a Build of so to speak with 2 other mates on CZcams and well I know they have not heard of you, We are doing The Panzer 4 F Afrika Corps, So Thanks for all your brilliant tutorials Cheers Jason, PS This is My First ever tank Build in 48yrs of Modelling
Thank you! It’s a nice video. I did a pin wash over a satin varnish to my Tiger I. However, the varnish seems to peel and flake off when I’m removing the excess of the wash. I’ve already tried to be gentle to avoid accidentally rubbing off the varnish but it still comes off after a few stroke. How could I fix it?
I can imagine two problems that could cause this. I'll need you do answer the two following questions so I can give you the right solution:
1. What varnish did yo use (type, company, what thinner did you use when spraying it, etc.)2. What thinner were you using to clean up the pinwash?
Panzermeister36 1. For the varnish I use Vallejo Satin varnish (the small 17mL but not the polyurethane large bottle one) thinned down with water. Also I don’t have an airbrush so the varnish was brushed on with two layers. I also make sure the layer of varnish has fully cured before applying the next one.
2. I use Daler Rowney low odour thinner
Your pinwash thinner seems like it's not very strong so I doubt it was the issue...In that case, I think it was the varnish. Vallejo paints are quite weak as far as acrylics go. Weak as in not very durable. However, stronger varnishes might be harder to brush paint. I would recommend a lacquer varnish that comes in a spray can, like Tamiya or Testors. Use a gloss spray before the pinwash and oil weathering, and then matte spray afterwards. Just be careful to spray it on in a few thin layers and from at least 18 inches away, since cans don't offer a huge amount of control and spraying too close or too heavy will risk giving the varnish a poor finish. Also, sorry I took a few days to reply. CZcams marked your reply as spam (no idea why -- it doesn't have links or anything) and hid it away.
Panzermeister36 thank you! I live in HK so Testor isn’t really available for me. I think I’ll go for Tamiya or Mr Hobby. My Hobby offers Topcoat, which is acrylic-based, and Super Clear, which is lacquer-based. Will lacquer-based be too strong for my Vallejo model colour basecoat and decals and should I go for Topcoat instead? Thanks a lot for your help. I don’t have an airbrush so I brush painted all the paint jobs.
I think Topcoat will be strong enough :)
For the semi gloss varnish placed before the pin wash is it acrylic or enamel based?
Always acrylic. If it's enamel based it will be killed by the enamel thinner in the wash.
I keep trying this but most of the times when the oil color dries (I usually use black), it becomes grey and most of it is AROUND the panel line, but when I try to remove excess then the wash INSIDE the panel is removed, +when there are really small details it just doesn't wants to go inside the line.
I'm pretty cursed whatever I do.