Do BENCHMADE KNIVES have a big problem?
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- čas přidán 19. 05. 2022
- Do Benchmade Knives have a big problem? Factory knives are shipping with incredibly coarse edges. Today, we're sharpening a Benchmade Bailout knife, using water stones such as the shapton glass stones, and the kuromaku series.
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OMG! You can’t imagine how surprised I am to see this! Thank you Kyle and trust I will be sharing this with friends and family. I’m just amazed you did this. You have made my day. Great job on cleaning that up too. You are truly a craftsman!
I will be waiting to hear from you and I will take care of the rest of our business once I do.
Thank you Kyle. Wow…
I don't expect production knives to have to have highly refined edges. Midtechs and customs I do want to see better. But a coarse toothy finish on a production knife is fine as long as it's sharp and the bevels are even.
The problem is that Benchmade knives are so grossly expensive, you really should expect refinement out of the box.
Yeah, and i personally dont usually sharpen my knives to high polish anyway. Like he said already the edge that was on the knife likely would shave your arm hair. That would be fine for me. I guess though so many likes the very polished edges it would be bonus for many, but i dont know how much it would increase the cost from manufacturing stand point
My spyderco knives gave infinitely better factory edges than any benchmade I have seen. Spyderco isn’t ridiculously over priced like benchmade too
I sent in my lawn mower blades to Kyle, he did a great job. My grass has never looked so good. Polished/strapped lawn blades are the future. 😎 (imagine him spending hours on the stones w a friggin lawn blade 😆)
Guess I just found one of my new favorite channels?
For what they charge that knife should be glowing with an aura of light and a perfect edge
I really like CPM M4, pretty tough steel even at higher hardness (63-64HRC). I'm also a huge fan of CPM 4V or Vanadis 4 Extra. Just great performing PM steels that don't shy away from hard work.
I’m surprised ya hadn’t worked with M4 before. You’re right about the edge. M4 does very well with a “toothy” one.
Excellent free-hand sharpening skills demonstrated here. The result (under the close-up lens) speaks for itself. Thanks for posting.
I think whether your knife should have a toothy or a polished edge depends a lot on the steel and what you plan on cutting. Sending your knife through a lot of fibrous material like rope and cardboard, or if you're cutting something tough and smooth like plastic tubing, a toothy edge is probably preferred.
Knives are meant to be resharpened, so I don't mind the edges from Benchmade being coarse as long as the angles are even.
This. this. This
Beautiful work. Thanks for sharing with us.
I Just got this knife and got rid of the pommel and glass break and got a spacer like that is already on there and let me say it is a million times more comfortable.
Love my M4 Bailout. If only Benchmade made purchasing replacement springs simpler - as we all know it's a paperweight without them. Also, the option for CF elite scales would be great. It's cold in Tassie. As for the edge, still using mine from factory after nearly 3 months in the pocket/on the bench. It's a toothy edge like yours was but I mainly use it on timber in the workshop where the blade profile is incredibly useful (more than I thought it would be.) Sorry for ramblin'. Cheers mate 👍😁
Agreed, re: spring replacement. I'm in the UK and I've had to send my 940 over the ocean twice for that very same issue.
I love the close ups as it really shows what we are getting from the factory . Such a beautiful sharpening job ! So slick. He is going to love that edge when he gets it back.
I have always been intimidated of those tanto blades, but after watching you do it so clean i may just try my hand at it . My cousin received a beautiful tanto blade from the FBI academy when he was on course there. Your wife would be excited to know he is in line to become the next chief in her former home town 😃
Great guy and i want to do a bang up job for him . Awesome video Kyle, always with good content and fun to enjoy a nice hot cup of coffee to in your favorite mug !! 😊
Great work buddy. Blessings to you and your beautiful family this long weekend .
Great video. I can't wait to see more.
Kyle, once again a great video! Your videos are always so informative and pleasant to watch. Thanks for having such a great content!
Just bought a new Griptillian a couple days ago and I noticed the edge was quite toothy. It does cut, but not smoothly as I like. I'm going to strop it and see if that makes much difference. If not I will be going to my TSPROF and cleaning the edge up.
5:33 - I generally dont. Unless its a bad factory edge or an edge that doesnt work for me, I usually just strop them until its time to put a new edge on.
Nicely done,you made that look easy👍
man I practiced my first time sharpening on my S90V 940, I got lucky. Good practice LOL
Very nice job! I have to get me some of those shaptons soon. You do incredible work!!
Just picked up my M4 bailout. My edge is horrible on it. I plan to get some water stones and use this video to help me practice. I usually use a sharpening system like a work sharp but for a tanto a hand sharpen is a must
All benchmade are starting to look the same I have about 4 I love them but you have one you have them all I love my piranha otf Excalibur it is sharp and it stays that way. I learned a lot about sharpening from you
Case likes to put toothy grinds on their edges. Best factory grinds in my collection, all under $200 and own more than one example from the manufacturer, in alpha order: Buck, Cold Steel, RoseCraft, and Rough Ryder. This not only includes final grit, but also symmetry of grind.
Thats beautiful i still have to pit an new edge on my bailout
Kyle, know the knife is on its way home made me want to look at the sharpening process you applied. After looking at the finished blade again I see just how good a job you did. The knife came to with an edge that was not equal to the quality of the knife. Now you made it an edge that is better than the quality of the knife. Thank you again. My favorite though is a CZ 562ti by Hinderer. It’s heavier which I like. The handle fits my hand very nicely. The edge is smooth and has stayed sharp. I like it a lot.
Thanks again.
That reminds me, I need to email you bud! 🤣 pulling my hair out some days trying to keep ahead. Talk soon!
Wow great sharpening skills👍🏼👍🏼
Huge difference nice work
Pardon my french , holy fawk you do good work my friend. Great looking blade.
Beautiful edge at the end
hi, Not keen on a tanto shape myself, but a traditional Japanese tanto has a rounded tip, not an abrupt angle as we see so often these days. love your work though, thanks abunch
Nice work.
Olight weapon lights AKA weapon mounted IED’s lol 😂 I went sure-fire after one blew up on my hog rifle
What were you using to clean your ceramic stone?
Hey I m kinda new to sharpening I seen you use the blue black. I invested in the blue black 320 orange 1000 and the green 2000 should I just go with these or should I get a shapton glass 1000 I use Basswood and gunnyjuice to strop and man u can get a nice looking edge with that I m just little new to shaping idk so many choices.
A lot off nice info thanks
I’ve often wondered if some knife manufacturers have become afraid to sharpen a knife too much. All the Case Knives I’ve bought weren’t all that sharp out of the box, but once I refined the edge. Feel in love with the performance of them
No Benchmade just has shit quality control and warranty.
@@bassackwards8422 :- To get the edge that Kyle is able to put on a factory knife would require hand work or several added steps to the production method. This is true for all manufacturers, not just Benchmade. So this extra sharpness equates to increased cost. No manufacturer can justify that level of price increase (read cost competitive) so the edge is usually a compromise between sharpness and cost. The average knife buyer does not need a razor sharp micro edge, and so this is what most knife manufacturers provide.
This is true for all knife manufacturers other than hand made or partially hand/machine made.
If the razor, mirror polish edge is your thing, then buy a quality sharpening system and sharpen your knives as you see fit...this way you can put the edge that you need on each knife that you own.
I only have 1 Benchmade (a sheepsfoot Griptillian I got a few years ago when they switched the default steel to S30V) and it was one of the dullest factory edges I've ever encountered. It legitimately couldn't cleanly cut paper. It's still a knife I love the design of, but it's disappointing that Benchmade can't be trusted to always ship knives with usable edges.
Wow! Nice work and a really nice Tanto knife 👍
What did you use to dress your shapton glass 1000 stone?
Nice edge! It’s been a while since I’ve watched a video of yours, always a pleasure. What dressing stone is that? To be honest I had heard of the term until now, thanks!
wow, you changed it into another knife - well done!
Almost a mirrow.I've heard some steels performs better with the curse grinds more than with fine
The more i get into knives, the more i wanna make them, see what others make and do. That is soooo sharp wow. Crazy how true tho, for a 240 dollar knife that kind of care should be mandatory...or at least they should up the standards a bit.
Hay Kyle what do you think about a diamond stone?
Coarse is ok from factory. I really need to be finished on water cooled gear. Anything else will risk too much friction at the apex. Lately, I have been using almost thicc, soapy water to cut down even more on friction. I could never have a knife with coating. It would be the first thing to go.
I've been away from the knife/axe community for awhile getting settled into new community.I must say I have always seen you as a excellent sharpener but either editing 👌or your on another level.I just mentioned my return and wow lots has changed in the last 3/4yrs and I say most of it good.Iam impressed with all the different steel out there and it's not just the big boys it's everywhere.I guess the topic is toothy edges and I've always carried a knife and really got into the hobby deep aprox 10years ago and until this past few months never realized that a toothy edge just may work better for edc as your gonna come up against different material and that's why I think emergency personnel carry serrated blades.I personal only own 2 and one being my very first expensive knife and like you mentioned that's individuals budget.Ive got several of these higher end steels and am shocked when I reach for my Nitro V blades and or my sanvic steel blades heck even d2 and I would say it is because I can sharpen these types of steel but in more than one case sharpness has nothing to do with it.I can take the super steel under a microscope and or my jeweler's loup and the edge is fine and glides through paper but on materials like hair it just doesn't grab.I guess I haven't helped but this is a good time for me to check out my perfect edc steel
That was one hell of an opening.
cool vid! I am curious as to how you'd go about sharpening a hawkbill, as in a Karambit.. got any vids on those?
love the videos brother, one thing for future videos would love some hd close ups of final product, think it would add alot to the content
I have 2 Benchmade knives, both in M4 as it’s my favorite steel. I don’t mind the factory grind because I know it’s going to dull eventually and then I’ll put my edge on it. It would be commendable for them to put on a nicer edge, but I don’t mind it. People who don’t sharpen (or enjoy it as much as I do) may not be so forgiving.
It takes time and experience to master sharpening. Holding the angle seems to be the hardest for many to achieve. Consequently, even in my case, it just takes time. On less experienced sharpeners you'll see the more aggressively convex shapes to the edge. I dont think anyone ever gets a perfectly pyramidal edge, it just lessens with experience. I myself am a big believer in diamond stones. Followed by a good stropping with compound for polishing.
Pretty much, a factory edge is going to look that way, approximately 120-180 mainly from a production standpoint its effective.ive gotten many knives that actually have a large hard burr curled over like a dull butter knife.🤣 had off center grinds, inaccurate aka wavy edges... etc.
I'm like you, the tanto has a place, it's just not one of my favorite blade shapes. Actually the older I get, the more I appreciate the simplicity of the wharncliffe or sheeps foot style. Recurve are not a favorite either. There is one recurve style that's appealing to me and that's the kukri. I'm in the process of designing a fighter that has similarities to the kukri and to the tactical stylings of Walter sorrels, aka tactix armory, but with a leaf blade deep belly.
I really like a sharp and polished edge. I have two Benchmark knives, one's a tanto, and the more polished edge seems to last longer with the hard steel. The N4 steel is hard which makes keeps it from scratching deeply. The edge can look good even after it needs attention.
Hi, what make and model is the microscope please.
Never used to touch a factory edge but I think I will start now.
so i got the m4 version and it felt really gritty right out of the box and had a lot of lock stick so to took it apart and noticed a lot that could be better. the liners/housing for the axis lock has a rough surface so the edges of all of the holes are sharp to the touch and the rough surface adds to this almost like serrations so i polished the flat surfaces with a strop and inside the where the axis lock rides i had the perfect aluminum oxide 5000 grit sharper for sharpening blade serrations whic fit perfectly so i smoothed that out. i think with how rough that whole area is what causes these springs to wear out. but that wasn’t the worst of it. the hole for the pivot was so sharp and jagged that it was destroying my washers and the surface of the blade tang behind the washers had super aggressive machining lines but beyond that it was also very pitted. the surface that the other side of the washer rests against was also rough and the entire surface of the tang that the lock rides against was pitted and rough and the lock bar itself was rough. also the pivot itself is “D” shaped and the shoulders of the flat part of the “D” shape was rough because of machining lines. i polished all of that out and now it’s much smoother and zero lock stick…. i have two budget chinese axis style knives each cost exactly $50 and neither have any of those issues but my american made $200 benchmade had zero quality control.
I watch all your videos twice haha
To touch up an edge, I use a smooth a old school smooth steel that I cross hatch finish with 80 grit paper. This can stand an edge back up quickly. I've found that many cutting edges actually bend over with use. Try this before going to a stone as every time you use one, no matter how fine, it takes metal away. I have been using this method a long time and it can work well. While I do not claim to be professional, I've been sharpening and restoring knives since 1977.
I'd never even heard of a dressing stone lol. Good to learn
I’m curious if M4 maintains the sharpness when polished that much. I just bought one of these knives & intend on improving the factory edge
Love the opening! Guns are cool. I have the PL-MINI 2 Valkyrie on my Walther PPQ. Nice light.
I cried when walther replaced the ppq. Fantastic pistol
@@eggbert191 I didn't realize they did. That's a shame.
I bought the Kuromako 320 and the Shapton Glass 1000 based on your using them on this channel. What dressing stone do you use? Is that one of the Naniwa stones? What grit do you use? And do you just use a single stone/grit? I see that they make it in multiple different grits so I've wondered which one I should buy and if I need more than one. (I do have one of the cheapo King dressing stones from when I was using a King 1000/6000 but the Naniwa do look a lot nicer -- though they're a lot more expensive as well.)
What would you recommend as a polishing stone to finish off my set?
I tend to leave a functioning new blade alone until it needs attention. I'm pretty much a Benchmade and Spyderco user and that toothy functional factory edge seems the norm for both of them. Although I find Spydercos edge is a bit more refined.
I only have 3 spyderco knives, but they all came w/ inconsistent bevels and a lack luster sharpness. Not a deal breaker though as I like to put a 15 degree per side which cleaned up the bevels.
I would for sure take it to my stones after I just bought it. I like to know the blade is sharpened to my level of expertise
My benchmade had that roughish edge on it. It doesn't quite cut hair or paper anymore (8 months of daily carry and occasional use here and there on this and that) but its still not bad. I'll touch it up pretty soon. This one was to replace the one I lost in iraq about 12 years ago. Since then I've had a gerber spring assist tanto with a half serrated blade and I hated that thing so much. It opened poorly, the point was bad, and in general I don't like serrated knives. So much happier with my benchmade.
I have a Emerson CQC15
How would you sharpen a blade of that shape????
Great knife Rockscale Designs makes a pomel delete that is great.
M4 is a very hard wearing tool steel. Some large diameter spade drill inserts are made from M4. Not a great survival knife steel because of difficulty in sharpening, and it's not stainless.
I personally love a toothier edge and normally don’t sharpen past 600 grit, usually stopping at 400. The only knives I take up past that are my super thin and slicey knives I use to open boxes and light stuff.
Recently bought a 535-3 (bugout s90v, carbon fiber) and it came with a *very* obvious burr from heel to tip on the clip side of the edge. To add to it, one of the omega springs broke on day 12 of ownership. Took it back and applied the money towards a sebenza. 😂
Personally, when l sharpen a American tanto blade, l sometimes sharpen from tip to choil in one smooth motion, eliminating the two edge design. Depending on the design (appleseed grind or so) this still can be "authentic" to the Japanese style and the continuous edge is almost always a superior cutter.
I run a factory edge until it needs the first sharpening. Then straight to the wet stones.
I've noticed out of all my knives (d2, aus 8 and 10, s35vn, 154cm) my cpm cruware mini adamas is the hardest to get a razer sharp edge on.
Oi oi, do you have any tips for sharpening a blade that has a slight recurve close to the handle? I have a Kershaw leek, and I kind of like the look of the recurve but can't seem to get the 1/2" or so of the edge closest to the handle to hit the stones
Yeah, I’ve never bought a Benchmade that I didn’t have to finish sharpening. I have never had that issue with any Buck or Spyderco. Knife. They have some good designs, and I have kept a couple of their knives, but for the price they ask for their knives I should NOT have to finish sharpening the blade…
What was the name of the song in the beginning?
I usually use my knifes with the factory edge for a few days and the putting my own refined edge on it, I like to see how they perform from the factory and some manufacturers put a more hand finished blade then some and in my opinion I'm not blaming manufacturers if they give me a edge that cuts paper probably shaves hair it's more then fine as I can put my own touch on it at any given time, as long as they don't start to charge me premium as in a 100%hand finished blade I'm all fine.
The flashlight sales pitch surprised me.
You did a fine job in your technique, however, CPM-M4 is a waste of money as is paying to have it sharpened if the stones are incorrect for the Steel. CPM-M4 is a high Vanadium steel and the stones you use cannot/will not sharpen the Carbides. Yes, it will feel sharp, but the long edge life expected in the High vanadium steels will not be there. Only the steel matrix holding the vanadium carbides is being sharpened. Not the Very hard Vanadium Carbides.
In order to sharpen a high Vanadium Carbide bearing steel, it is required to use a stone that has as its cutting matrix harder than the Vanadium.. Only Diamond and CBN is harder. The Vanadium Carbides are a LOT harder than the Ceramic stones. Buffing compound mode of Alu. Oxide is softer yet. It requires again, Diamond emulsion or the same in CBN. Otherwise the more exotic steels are a huge waste of money as they cannot perform to their potential.
I would suggest stones such as the Veneve Diamond matrix stones, Naniwa Diamond Matrix Stones, Columbia George, Edge Pro, or a few others. Yes, they are expensive. But then again are knives with High Vanadium steel. There really is no option.
KnifeMaker
Me personally I like it to the edge
What microscope are you using? Would you still recommend it? Love your videos by the way. Just got my first Naniwa stones and a bunch of old cheap knifes to practice with. Greetings from Finland!
The bigger problem with expensive knives like benchmades is they tend to grow legs and walk away. I don't have either of my two benchmades anymore. Still have all my cheaper knives.
Kyle…be honest….did you study the painter Bob Ross before you started to make videos? This video really reminded me of the most mellow man ever!
P.S. I love Mr. Ross work & still watch his stuff today!
Haha I have watched plenty of his episodes in the past, but with no intentions of adopting his style. 🤣
For a working blade most are 180 grit grinds. Cheaper knives kan go even lower to 120 or so, but like you said most people are fine with such an edge and it will work fine. But as you show with the 320 stone, thats is such a big improvement already, its a shame most knife companies don't take the effort of doing so.
This isn't a cheap blade. Spyderco sharpens all their knives better than this trash.
@@bassackwards8422 even Mora puts a sharper edge on their 10 dollar knives
I always start My sharpening on a 120 stone and it doesn't get such striations... Stones get less consistent striations because we can't(I can't at least) maintain the direction as perfect as you can on a belt sander... But yeah, I would guess they use a 120/140 still
First thing I do with any knife is put a new, polished edge on it
I would remove it because it's probably burn from the original sharpening anyways. That said I would keep m4 a little coarse
skillls !!!
I think like any tool, if it does the job to the standard you want/need, and especially if you're not confident you can improve it, then it's good enough. If you're confident you can bring it up to the standard you want (and/or it's cheap enough to practice on, which is going to vary from person to person), then go for it. There's probably also a degree of safety from the company's point of view - someone with more money than sense is probably less likely to lose a finger showing off with a coarse grind, and someone who knows their knives probably has the skill/resources to get it sharpened if they want. Personally I also find taking the time to sharpen a knife hammers into my head that a blade is actually *sharp*.
It would be cool if the bailout came in a drop point but it does not. Tanto only.
While I am sure the O Light is a great light, I fail to see any value of a light on a shotgun.
Cowabunga mate.!
Unfortunately so many knife companies knives now days have no bite to the edge. It leaves that smooth feel, you can feel it with your fingers. They shave hair, they cut paper. But the apex itself is not crisp. Spyderco usually does a good job. Micro tech does a good job. Those are the only brands I haven't decided to sharpen out of the box.
The bug out is a drop point and the bailout is the tanto
Nice catch, better music
Very beatiful knife, normaly the factory grinds are very Bad like 19° left side and 28° right side with a 220 grit scratch pattern and a big Burr, customers are often disapointed when you show this to them, but that is the job of us professional sharpeners we make knifes much better than they where before, most Companys put great efforts in heattreating blade Geometrie the selection of steel and so on only to take the knifes and put them on a quick running 220 belt creating uneven bevels and ruin the temper right on the apex.
over a year ago i contacted Benchmade and they informed me that they sharpen their knives on sanding belts this is why they are toothy since then i put mine on 600 , 1000 and 10000 stone then strop very lightly
I am fine with the coarse edge, it is perfectly serviceable on a user knife and all that most people probably realistically need. Demanding a higher grit would probably just lead to a bigger chance of getting a burnt blade and having to sharpen even more to get past the already weakened steel from the current factory edge.
One thing the customer may want to do is use a T6 Torx to remove the thumb stud and place some anti corrosion protection in the hole. Water can and does get in there and cause rusting. I usually just put a smidge of frog lube on mine as a just in case measure. I figured that one out after I used my 940-2 to skin an elk and was cleaning it thoroughly and found some surface rust. Washing the blade many times before but not drying out the hole eventually added up I guess.
If you're power sharpening on a belt grinder that's true. Mainly I think the coarse edge comes from production practices, maximum output. I agree though, it's a good working edge that would last longer for the average user. 👍
@@melgillham462 Well, they use belt grinders to sharpen them at the factory and I have seen pictures of knives with discolored edges/tips from heat. Finer belts generate more heat, so that is why I said if people wanted a higher grit finish from a factory edge it would lead to more burnt edges.
@@Riyame absolutely agree, especially considering the level of expertise where factory workers are concerned. Most that are hired are thrown into situations they have little knowledge of.
i always remove the pocket clip from every new knife i buy just because i have found a ton of knives that got popped from the pocket, and as much as people are gonna try and say it only happens to one in a million i have seen what happens with the knife that has a liner lock that snaps to far and the catastrophic failure when someone loses half a finger or more because of iti have the scar to prove it does happen
nope the Tanto blade is the only option for the bailout.