Great to see you back. Great vid. And also there is nothing worse than forgetting your glasses. Im lost if I forget mine. Learned to keep a spare pair in the glove box
Hello Salazar great video thank you. I want to ask you what part of the Unite states are you on? I spend too much on my durango and still the same problem. Are you in Arizona by any chance?
Maic great to see you are back making a video. Sorry buddy to hear you are so slow. Maic what model head light is it that you have? Need to get one. Wait till you need glasses magnifiers and a bright light Lol. Hope your diagnostics side is doing better. Looking forward to one of those videos if business picks up. Maic thanks for the video and hope all is good with you and family Artie 😊😊
Thank you my friend! This is the link. www.ledlenserusa.com/products/mh10?dfw_tracker=72554-30858734272590&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoJX8BRCZARIsAEWBFMKXYYP3uSxQN1gssOphWxqIgaifEOMflww3LlRn7fBKU4apFs4zUGAaAr3OEALw_wcB
Im getting a crank no start on my 12 durango and have fuel pressure 65 lbs car was ru ning can up to stop light and that was it crank but no start i have checked asd fuse and relay well i have checked all relays and fuses my guess pcm or tipm any ideas before i take it to dealer?
Really great to see you again Maic. Awesome job so far, still watching. Missed getting to hang out with you at SS this year. I chased one of these no crank situations recently on a '13 charger. This system looks to be laid out the same so far. I like seeing how you got about analyzing and diagnosing systems, I always learn something.
I am commenting while watching. Checked 4 fuses, did not check any of them for power. PEOPLE, please stop checking fuses in this way, is the power coming to the fuse, is the power going beyond the fuse if the fuse is not blown, is there corrosion on the inlet/outlet terminal, is the terminal spread open not allowing contact, is the terminal pushed down into the bottom of the fuse box. A test light will only answer a couple of these questions, an ohmmeter will only answer one, and a visual inspection will help with some of them to a degree of acceptance. Testing for power at the component or relay will verify all the concerns listed so start further down the schematic, no need to test at every test point. Rule of testing electronics, start in the middle of the circuit, if you have a fault, go somewhere back towards the beginning, typically at a problem area, the fuse. If everything is good up to the logical test point, cut the end of the circuit in half again for involved circuits, normally in an automobile, its go to the end of the line, the main component under question. Yes, there are many scenarios but stop testing fuses first especially if you have a schematic in your hand. All you did for your first diagnosis is a test for a blown fuse and nothing else. Your nice relay adaptor test tool at pin 30 just proved your battery power, wiring, fuse, and fuse box terminals are all good up to that first logical test point, half of the circuit done in several seconds, A test light with a built-in voltmeter is nice in case of a voltage drop that a normal test light will not notice. Pull the relay out of the socket to find the bias side during the bidirectional test. Your consumption drop is telling you that you have a 12-volt bias from the computer, as it pulls down too easy, and not 12 volts battery feed. Your low consumption diode test light should light up on pin 85 or 86 to guide you to the power side, PCM or BCM via the schematic. Both relay terminals are now "High" since they are connected internally thru the inductor so you know that is not open. Jumping pin 30 to pin 87 proves the end of the circuit, relay terminal in the fuse box, wiring to starter, starter solenoid, and starter motor which could have been tried a long time ago but no worries. Now you are down to where is the BIAS voltage coming from. Now you are going to clear all codes, it's ok since you printed everything out BUT, before you try to fix P or B or C codes, you need to fix U codes first. Notice that U codes are listed first, in order of precedence, start at the top and work your way down. Notice that both the PCM and BCM only have U codes and many have U codes for the ABS. BRO, please tell me that you didn't ask for more time while you are tutoring on CZcams, if I was the owner and I saw this, it's court time OMG. The first REAL DIAGNOSIS step with your U codes is to test the ABS module for powers and grounds, look at the CAN H and CAN L signals with a scope, and overall resistance of 60 ohms with the ohmmeter, here only for this job, UNPLUG IT and see if other problems go away after a code erase at this point. Test light again for a load test, less than 200ma is not a load test bro, a test light is a quick test, a brake light bulb or headlight bulb is a load test of acceptable proportion, a couple of amps is a load. I am happy that you want to triple check but should have gone for the U code first Bro. I am no Guru and I do not know how many years you have in the shop, I hope you accept this as constructive criticism as I know you have good electronics experience in other areas as well, I was a TV repairman before I learned how to do a simple brake job. But what you should have done here should have been 30 minutes or even the one-hour diagnostic time that you get upfront, lots of wasted time IMHO. I believe in you so I will go ahead and subscribe to your channel now and I will lighten up on future feedback. I know you have future plans but you need much more experience. Good luck with the teaching project also. Your learning curve will take time so start preparing ASAP.
Well that was an elaborated comment. Not sure if you have ever work on a shop but things are very different from what I want to do with what they and the costumer approves. So I can't fix or chase every code, I have to stick like it or not to what they say. So yes on a perfect world I would have done as you mentioned here or in my car.
So what finally fix issue, I have 2014 keep grand Cherokee, that has same issue but my abs communicate, and I get a short power on the pin85 of the starter relay but no earth coming out from the pcm, but the bias voltage works from the pcm too, but when you try to start, it won’t start. Now when I give earth to pin 86 of the starter relay and I try to start, you would see engine crank for 2 seconds and stop, but the security light also is working, if not on,
@@marymcclam3616 I didnt, i went ahead and bought a refurbished PCM from ebay and installed but still wont start immediately when it rains. It takes about 20 cranks. but its really weird so ill turn on key in run position on and off so the fuel pump can turn on then i wait for the rear AC to turn on and it starts up right away check engine light turns on and ill get a misfire in bank 1 or the lost communication with pcm again
Hello! I have a 2014 Durango 3.6L push button start. Mine is doing the EXACT same thing. However, sometimes it will randomly start. About 50% of the time. This just started when the cold weather moved in. Battery reads 12.5 volts and 11.2 while trying to crank. Battery is original. Should I start with battery replacement?
this guy is nice but did a long video to show you that your TIPM is bad. that black box he is working on has the fuel relay built in and it goes bad. so you can put a bypass in or change the TIPM. you can also jump from fuse m7 to m25 and get it to start. i have the same problem and deciding what to do. either aftermarket relay or new tipm. good luck!
@michaelmanese2228 exactly thats what mine is doing crank no start and i have fuel pressure and the relay bypass has been done i have checked all relays and fuses and used scan tool and seen cranking rpms and has no codes. Im baffled
I had the ABS light come on my dash in a '94 Nissan truck. My first response was to check the sensors. Hmm they're OK. What next? Go on the internet for ideas. Someone mentioned low brake fluid. That was it! Sounds obvious now. Why didn't I think of that.
My 2018 just started doing this, I’ve been looking for a video like this! Thank you
Great video. It was good to see your thought process. Looking forward to the repair video!
Nice diagnosis Maic. Good to see that you're well!
Nice to see you again sir 😊
Thanks for sharing
Good to see you back bro!
great video Maic good seeing you man
Great to see you back. Great vid. And also there is nothing worse than forgetting your glasses. Im lost if I forget mine. Learned to keep a spare pair in the glove box
Good to see you again in action Maic!
Thank you!!
Very similar problem with my 09 journey will be trying this tomorrow praying that this is the fix I'm absolutely tired of pouring money into it.
Thank you, for you time and knowledge...
Thank you so much for your time.
Saludos master buen diagnostico
Hello Salazar great video thank you. I want to ask you what part of the Unite states are you on? I spend too much on my durango and still the same problem. Are you in Arizona by any chance?
Maic great to see you are back making a video. Sorry buddy to hear you are so slow. Maic what model head light is it that you have? Need to get one. Wait till you need glasses magnifiers and a bright light Lol. Hope your diagnostics side is doing better. Looking forward to one of those videos if business picks up. Maic thanks for the video and hope all is good with you and family Artie 😊😊
Thank you my friend!
This is the link. www.ledlenserusa.com/products/mh10?dfw_tracker=72554-30858734272590&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoJX8BRCZARIsAEWBFMKXYYP3uSxQN1gssOphWxqIgaifEOMflww3LlRn7fBKU4apFs4zUGAaAr3OEALw_wcB
Thanks Maic appreciate your response😊
great job and waiting for the next video , did you ever try the DTC helper on the new Autel tool yet.
I have try it but not to convince on the results. At least not on problems like this one.
Im getting a crank no start on my 12 durango and have fuel pressure 65 lbs car was ru ning can up to stop light and that was it crank but no start i have checked asd fuse and relay well i have checked all relays and fuses my guess pcm or tipm any ideas before i take it to dealer?
GREAT DIAGNOSTIC VIDEO, BUSINESS IS SLOW IT SEEMS ALL OVER HOPE THINGS PICK UP SOON FOR ME AND FOR YOU PLEASE KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK THANKS AGAIN.
Thank you my friend. Blessings
I un
Awesome
Really great to see you again Maic. Awesome job so far, still watching.
Missed getting to hang out with you at SS this year.
I chased one of these no crank situations recently on a '13 charger. This system looks to be laid out the same so far. I like seeing how you got about analyzing and diagnosing systems, I always learn something.
Thank you my friend! Hope next year to see you!
I am commenting while watching. Checked 4 fuses, did not check any of them for power. PEOPLE, please stop checking fuses in this way, is the power coming to the fuse, is the power going beyond the fuse if the fuse is not blown, is there corrosion on the inlet/outlet terminal, is the terminal spread open not allowing contact, is the terminal pushed down into the bottom of the fuse box. A test light will only answer a couple of these questions, an ohmmeter will only answer one, and a visual inspection will help with some of them to a degree of acceptance. Testing for power at the component or relay will verify all the concerns listed so start further down the schematic, no need to test at every test point. Rule of testing electronics, start in the middle of the circuit, if you have a fault, go somewhere back towards the beginning, typically at a problem area, the fuse. If everything is good up to the logical test point, cut the end of the circuit in half again for involved circuits, normally in an automobile, its go to the end of the line, the main component under question. Yes, there are many scenarios but stop testing fuses first especially if you have a schematic in your hand. All you did for your first diagnosis is a test for a blown fuse and nothing else. Your nice relay adaptor test tool at pin 30 just proved your battery power, wiring, fuse, and fuse box terminals are all good up to that first logical test point, half of the circuit done in several seconds, A test light with a built-in voltmeter is nice in case of a voltage drop that a normal test light will not notice. Pull the relay out of the socket to find the bias side during the bidirectional test. Your consumption drop is telling you that you have a 12-volt bias from the computer, as it pulls down too easy, and not 12 volts battery feed. Your low consumption diode test light should light up on pin 85 or 86 to guide you to the power side, PCM or BCM via the schematic. Both relay terminals are now "High" since they are connected internally thru the inductor so you know that is not open. Jumping pin 30 to pin 87 proves the end of the circuit, relay terminal in the fuse box, wiring to starter, starter solenoid, and starter motor which could have been tried a long time ago but no worries. Now you are down to where is the BIAS voltage coming from. Now you are going to clear all codes, it's ok since you printed everything out BUT, before you try to fix P or B or C codes, you need to fix U codes first. Notice that U codes are listed first, in order of precedence, start at the top and work your way down. Notice that both the PCM and BCM only have U codes and many have U codes for the ABS. BRO, please tell me that you didn't ask for more time while you are tutoring on CZcams, if I was the owner and I saw this, it's court time OMG. The first REAL DIAGNOSIS step with your U codes is to test the ABS module for powers and grounds, look at the CAN H and CAN L signals with a scope, and overall resistance of 60 ohms with the ohmmeter, here only for this job, UNPLUG IT and see if other problems go away after a code erase at this point. Test light again for a load test, less than 200ma is not a load test bro, a test light is a quick test, a brake light bulb or headlight bulb is a load test of acceptable proportion, a couple of amps is a load. I am happy that you want to triple check but should have gone for the U code first Bro. I am no Guru and I do not know how many years you have in the shop, I hope you accept this as constructive criticism as I know you have good electronics experience in other areas as well, I was a TV repairman before I learned how to do a simple brake job. But what you should have done here should have been 30 minutes or even the one-hour diagnostic time that you get upfront, lots of wasted time IMHO. I believe in you so I will go ahead and subscribe to your channel now and I will lighten up on future feedback. I know you have future plans but you need much more experience. Good luck with the teaching project also. Your learning curve will take time so start preparing ASAP.
Well that was an elaborated comment. Not sure if you have ever work on a shop but things are very different from what I want to do with what they and the costumer approves. So I can't fix or chase every code, I have to stick like it or not to what they say. So yes on a perfect world I would have done as you mentioned here or in my car.
So what finally fix issue, I have 2014 keep grand Cherokee, that has same issue but my abs communicate, and I get a short power on the pin85 of the starter relay but no earth coming out from the pcm, but the bias voltage works from the pcm too, but when you try to start, it won’t start. Now when I give earth to pin 86 of the starter relay and I try to start, you would see engine crank for 2 seconds and stop, but the security light also is working, if not on,
My truck turns pretty much everything but the closter it’s dark not start no crank
Can I use I used abs module
What is the model of that scanner again? I see Autel on it but I didn't catch the exact model when you told us? Thanks!
Autel Maxisys Ultra
Thanks for the video 2015 dodge Durango limited starts turns off immediately error lost communication PCM/ECM?
Well I will start by checking powers and grounds, 5v reference and communication lines to the ECM/PCM. Can you read faults in the ECM/PCM?
@MaicSalazarDiagnostics Unfortunately No just pretty much trying to check all fuses and relays with voltage meter
Did you figure out what was wrong?
@@marymcclam3616 I didnt, i went ahead and bought a refurbished PCM from ebay and installed but still wont start immediately when it rains. It takes about 20 cranks. but its really weird so ill turn on key in run position on and off so the fuel pump can turn on then i wait for the rear AC to turn on and it starts up right away check engine light turns on and ill get a misfire in bank 1 or the lost communication with pcm again
Hello! I have a 2014 Durango 3.6L push button start. Mine is doing the EXACT same thing. However, sometimes it will randomly start. About 50% of the time. This just started when the cold weather moved in. Battery reads 12.5 volts and 11.2 while trying to crank. Battery is original. Should I start with battery replacement?
this guy is nice but did a long video to show you that your TIPM is bad. that black box he is working on has the fuel relay built in and it goes bad. so you can put a bypass in or change the TIPM. you can also jump from fuse m7 to m25 and get it to start. i have the same problem and deciding what to do. either aftermarket relay or new tipm. good luck!
Mine is doing this now since it’s cold now did you find the problem
Hi Maic, I have the exact same issue with my Dgo… can you help me? What I need to do… the truck won’t crank…
Email me at maic@maicsalazardiagnostics.com
What scanner do you use?
👍🏻
im having the same issue for my dodge durango 2018, i dont know what to do. i just got it from the dealership
Same I just got mines last week and it won’t start
Did you figure out problem? My 2018 r/t is doing this
Did you get yours figured out?
Hi I having same problem was the brake pedal hard or stiff?
What was the problem with your Durango? Mine just did this won’t start and the break is hard
@@elizabethsandoval2692 I had to replace starter but did the same about six months later
@@elizabethsandoval2692 did you figure what was wrong ? having same problem break is hard wont even crank
What if, their is Crank but still wouldn't start?
@michaelmanese2228 exactly thats what mine is doing crank no start and i have fuel pressure and the relay bypass has been done i have checked all relays and fuses and used scan tool and seen cranking rpms and has no codes. Im baffled
I had the ABS light come on my dash in a '94 Nissan truck. My first response was to check the sensors. Hmm they're OK. What next? Go on the internet for ideas. Someone mentioned low brake fluid. That was it! Sounds obvious now. Why didn't I think of that.
Emmm
‘Mm
You guy's just make it to much