Part 3: Chainring Upgrade DIY from 42T to 52T | REI Co-op e1.1 Class 1 ebike
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
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Upgraded the chainring from 42T to 52T. This improves the pedaling comfort at higher speeds while allowing higher speeds to be achieved with the same pedaling cadence.
NOTE: The new chain was the same 116-link length as the existing chain. I had to use 5 links from the old chain and added it to the new chain for a total of 121 links. I did not find any sources with longer new chain lengths so save the old chain if you plan to do this.
Chainring and crank puller purchased from Amazon. As of Aug 2022, the chainring was ~$25, the KMC X8 chain was ~$20 and the crank puller ~$10. The chainring with crank arms (which I did not use) was ~$52.
Parts Used
* 52T chainring, BCD 104
* KMC X8 chain
Tools and Materials Used
* 5mm hex wrench for chain ring bolts
* 8mm hex wrench for crank bolt
* Adjustable wrench
* Master Link pliers
* Chain breaker
* Rubber mallet
* Stubby flathead screwdriver (used in place of chain ring nut spanner)
* Loctite, blue
* Grease (not necessary to use Park Tools grade)
Part 1 - Original, first look video of this bike can be found in the link below.
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Part 2 - Ride impressions and Overview of Functions
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I just made this change and am very happy! Here's some additional info for anyone else trying this
Other options -
I went back and forth with my REI bike shop about what gearing would work best. Discussed changing back, front, and both. In the end, we both decided to just change the front gearing. Whether you go for 52T, 48T, etc. is up to you. I'm a decent rider and 52T seems great. But if you're relatively weaker and/or tackle steep hills frequently, then something lower may work.
What 52T gets you -
You get power and no ghost pedaling up til probably 21mph. This was perfect as it seems the e-motor stops at 20mph. It really just feels right. I do use some of the lower gears more now, whereas before I only used the highest.
I'm 100% happy with 52T. My wife and I both have this bike & I changed it on both.
Install notes & tips -
If you're new to this, here's a quick list of things you'll need... Set of bike allen keys (specifically 5mm and 8mm), a donor/extra 7 speed chain for 5 extra links, a chain link breaker, and a chain master link opener, and a crank puller.
The 52T from the video is available on amazon, under YBEKI brand. The 52T ring says it's meant for 9/10/11 speed chains, but imo not a major issue, however feel free to look into it yourself if you're worried.
The new chainring can be faced the other way, so you don't see the white markings on it as easily. That's what I did.
The chain guard that covers the original front ring will not cover the new 52T ring. You can try searching for a new one, but I couldn't find one. And I don't really think you need a new one anyway. I decided to keep mine much like in the video.
When you're putting the crank back on, make sure to really tighten it down. If you don't you risk your chain slipping off on the lowest gear.
You are awesome. Thank you!
Does this void the warranty on service of the bike? Would I be able to have REI install this for me?
Always a tricky question and so many variables at play from installation, maintenance, and what warranty work is needed. Best to ask REI but IMHO, short answer is it shouldn’t.
REI is also not a traditional bike shop so I wouldn’t expect them to upgrade with customer parts. They are more assembly, prep/delivery, and maintenance.
You sound like a good Dad. Thanks so much for sharing your bike mechanic skills with us. I learned much!
Thanks for the kind words. Glad it’s been helpful
Thanks for the update! Definitely interested in the next update after this upgrade!
REI just announced that they're offering a free drivetrain upgrade starting April 15th.
Good for them and good for customers.
I just checked on REI's website, this is the chainring specs...(Alloy with 48T steel chainring)
So glad they made that change!
We got one of these in late May (2023). It has the larger chainring. Does 20 MPH without excessive cadence, while still having enough torque to haul 250+ pounds of me up 10 or 12 % grades.
Very good video
Yes.. I see point of doing it if you mind cruising on flat road at more than 13-14.5mph. ( I give up my prior arguments). Ideally, they should put 2 chain rings up front, and I would not hesitate to put $100 more for this bike that way.. I may go ahead after year with these changes (should I not return her back to REI within year, next Fall) On the second thought - not only that cruising at lower cadency serves some comfort on flat roads that there would not be to much strain on motor anyway on flat segments of rides.
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Thanks for the video. Would you mind sharing a link for that front wheel, wheel chock you have there? Thanks
Here you go. a.co/d/i0ZcfiT
@@zjunlimited Thanks!
Will this reduce torque in the lowest gears? I have a super steep hill climb on my route and the motor maxes out. With a lower gear I could power up.
No. A larger chain ring will not make climbing easier. It will allow a higher top speed while reducing climbing range. It’s a compromise unless you change the cassette range but that brings other considerations and limitations.
Good luck with ever changing that chainwheel again after using Loctite on those 4 bolts. I know you used blue and not red, but still, best of luck.
Thanks for the concern but I’ve used blue loctite for years on all of my bikes and never a problem removing parts.
Guys, I purchased 4 of these Ebikes during the sale, seems that mine came with 48T chain ring, but still noticed a lot of ghost pedaling and is hard to go over 18 mph...would upgrading to 52T will make a difference?
It will but may not be as much as you think…1-2mph max is my guess. Maybe look into a larger chain ring like a 58T or 60T?
I just wanted to ask. After the chainring upgrade, does your torque sensor still work fine? Thanks.
Yes, all good.
What was the the teeth count on the rear highest gear. What is the top speed now by peddle.
14T, ~20mph
Are you happy with the upgrade? Anything you’d do differently? Do you think the cassette needs to be changed out as well? I’m interested in doing this myself!
Yes, very happy with the upgrade. This should come from the factory like this to start. No need at the moment to replace the cassette, in part because my 12yo son rides it. I’d suggest replacing the chainring first and if you feel it’s still lacking or if you are a strong biker to start, then replace the cassette.
@@zjunlimited thanks! I might do just that!
So what has changed?...I'm assuming lower cadency (with more muscle input though) for given speed?... Also... what's the max speed with motor engaged? Is it still 20mph? Thanks.
(I did this also.) Technically you're right about the lower cadence, but in reality I rarely used anything below the highest gear before. So if cadence is a concern, then just downshift. There's 7 gears to choose from.
With 52T you'll get ghost pedaling around 20-22mph now. I think the motor does kick off at 20mph, but it's hardly noticeable since thats how fast you'll be able to pedal anyway. I'm very happy with my change & think 52T is the right size for this bike & should have shipped this way from REI.
I have been to REI three times about this and the bike mechanics still haven't come to a consensus on what should work. Most comments that I've been seeing say to replace the freewheel to 11-34T and the front chainring to 46T. Yesterday, I was told that I should buy an 11-28T freewheel and replace the chainring to 46T or 48T, now I see this lol. 🤦🏾♂️
Technically all of the options you listed would “work” but which works best for you is more subjective. I actually ran the gearing options through a spreadsheet I created to determine the theoretical top speed at a set cadence and various gearing combo. This can also be found online…lol. I found 52T to give the most noticeable difference vs anything less. As far as the cassette gearing, most important is replacing the 14T to something numerically smaller. 11T works fine and personally I would keep the 34T to keep more of the low range available especially if you change to a larger front chainring.
@@zjunlimited ok I really appreciate this breakdown.
@@SW4Life202 Also chiming in. I worked with my REI shop and they actually plotted out gear ratios & recommended just changing the front. They were recommending 48T, but I'm glad I went with 52T since it unlocks 20+mph.
Do you really need to pull the crank if you’re just doing the 52t swap?
There might be enough clearance to remove the chain guard and ring but I didn’t check. My initial plan was to replace the cranks too so the puller was already planned for.
@@zjunlimited alright thanks a ton for the answers!
I just did this & you probably do need to pull the crank. Reason is because the attachment for gear is unfortunately behind the crank arm. However, IF you have a very low-profile 5mm allen wrench that can get into small places, then you can go without it.
I will say, a low-profile allen wrench is probably cheaper than a crank puller. However, I bet you'll get more future use out of a crank puller for sure.
@@AKValle26 i did it without pulling the crank! Just get an old Alan wrench and cut down the tip and when you reinstall the bolts put them on backwards and you can reach them no problem.
@@adventuresincameronology2517 Nice glad to hear that worked! What are thoughts on the new gearing?