Good stuff bro. I hope that solved your tire wear problem. 👍🏼 I dropped $1700 to replace the whole "knee" assembly to fix my similar problem. Figured it was easier that way than doing 1 piece at a time. No more smacking curbs for me! 😝
i was told by the alignment shop all dodges come with negative camber in the front end from factory bc mine was wearing on the inside tire as well, so they suggested to buy adjustable upper control arms
Awesome Scat426《☆》Good work Buddy :*: This should be an FCA recall imho but they are probably too busy taking care of other problems :*: Have a good week🤠☻🤠
Two questions, do you think the car handles a little better with the new forged SPC control arms, and do they weigh more less or the same as the oem ones?
I haven’t tried hitting the turns hard to know if it improved grip. But to answer you question about the weight. The new control arms are a little heavier.
I legit had my control arm snap clean in half and the wheel go flying off while driving two days ago, do you think it was from the bad roads near my house that weakened and shifted it or a manufacturer defect? Also I just put on new tires and rims not even three weeks ago!
So the stick control arms seems to be spring loaded. Like it has tension on it. But the SOC replacement has no spring in it? That doesn’t seem right? Or did that part just get skipped?
The upper control arm is linked to the lower control arm by the steering knuckle. The weight of the car sits, from top to bottom, on the shock tower, which rests on the top of the coil spring, which sits on top of the spring perch on the strut/shock, and the strut rests on the lower control arm, which forces the upper control arm to follow its motions by way of the knuckle. If you support the lower control arm with a floor jack, remove the ball joint nut at the upper control arm, then lower the jack to where it still is supporting the lower control arm but is also pulling the upper one down slightly, you should be able to smack the flat machined spot on the upper part of the knuckle just below the ball joint itself, and generally the knuckle will slip of the upper ball joint stud. At that point the upper control arm has no preload besides the bushing position itself. But at no time will the upper control arm go flying upwards, as the spring is no longer connected to the upper arm once the ball joint is disconnected. Even then, the lower arm may spring towards the floor, but the upper won’t spring upwards.
My caster in my camber are a little off in the front should I replace my lower ball joints and my lower control arms? .... I just replaced my upper control arms links and sturts ?...
Did you raise the car and check if there was play in the ball joints. If you can move it around and see shifting in between. It might be worn down and should be replaced.
So I have a question because you had to replace those when you turn your tires each way with the steering wheel for you hearing a noise that led you to believe these were bad which obviously I seen you change it it was bad
The camber was severely off and it was wearing out my front tires prematurely. The camber is not adjustable on these cars, which doesn't help the situation.
Where did you get that gear puller? Look for a good one as my control arms won’t come out as I’m replacing the struts 6 months after doing this install.
Can you explain why you set it to negative 5 castor. I was going to set it to zero because my camber is off after lowering my wide body scat pack. Should I set to -5 castor before taking it to get aligned?
I was wondering the same thing. I lowered my 2016 Charger RT with a stage one from Mopar and my caster is 9.6 degrees on the left and 9.7 degrees on the right. I’m not sure what to set the caster to.
Andre Wilson So I installed my front SPC upper control arms. I set it to zero and they were able to get the alignment perfect. I’d go with Zero. FYI you may also have to change front sway var end links. I went with BMR adjustable ones. Hope this helps. I don’t think people realize what’s involved when you lower these challengers. You really have to change everything if you want to get it back to spec. I’m in the process of changing out my rear upper control arms. I went with ADD performance. $$ But quality.
@@scatspeed3114i have a charger scatpack and im having the same problem with wear on the inside of my front tires, do you recommend camber bolts or control arm? And how much did you pay to allign your car?
I’ve never tried the camber bolts. I just went straight for the adjustable upper control arms because I wasn’t sure how well the bolts work. I paid 90 dollars to get the front adjusted.
Bro, if you just replaced the upper control arm with a Mopar factory spec it would have also fixed that issue. At least now when your suspension gets messed up you can now adjust it. For me, o just redid the front suspension for $200 my self and got a $75 alignment 👌
Quicl question how did you get the bolts to go back in so easy? I got the frint bolt in but the one facing the firewall i cant get it to go back in for nothing any help would be good
Zachery Huber Well I had enough clearance to install the bolt. It wasn’t that easy either. You might have to loosen the bolts on the shock tower to make some space.
@@scatspeed3114 thank you so much. I will do that first thing in the morning i will be glad to have the bugger done. Thanks again and just loosen them a couple turns or?
@@scatspeed3114 Thank you for the information. Next week I have to get installed an adjustable control arm because I installed recently lowering springs for my Challenger.
@@scatspeed3114 That's probably what did it! I smacked a curb trying to ”parallel" park, & bent something like you did. Worst part was the it chewed up the lip of my wheel. 😭
@@scatspeed3114 I have a Challenger Hellcat. - The driver rear side seems to be a little noise when I turn and also experiencing the most amount of inner wear on the tire. I can not figure out the root cause and some are two other shops. I was thinking maybe this might be the cause.
EbenTv how long have you had the car? When I do a tight turn I can hear my diff. Whining. It’s has always done since new. I might be your diff. Have you gone to an alignment shop
My bro you kill the video thank you for your time and Detail just what I needed.
Great video, I like that you got right to the point and didn't waste time with BS. This will help a lot.
Great installment!
First time seeing a Upper Control Arm like that!
I have to do more work on my 2007 Dodge Charger!
Great video....I am going to order two new upper adjustable control arms.
Good stuff bro. I hope that solved your tire wear problem. 👍🏼 I dropped $1700 to replace the whole "knee" assembly to fix my similar problem. Figured it was easier that way than doing 1 piece at a time. No more smacking curbs for me! 😝
That sucks man! It happens so easily too. But it can be repaired.
@@scatspeed3114 Yeah, but that's money I would rather have spent on new exhaust or an intake manifold.
GREAT video, thank you!!! : )
i was told by the alignment shop all dodges come with negative camber in the front end from factory bc mine was wearing on the inside tire as well, so they suggested to buy adjustable upper control arms
Great control 😎🔧
Great video- can y explain how you replaced the passenger side? Thx
Awesome Scat426《☆》Good work Buddy :*: This should be an FCA recall imho but they are probably too busy taking care of other problems :*: Have a good week🤠☻🤠
Thanks BDOG JR. I don’t think FCA would have covered the repair. My car has 40,000 miles on it now. Take care BDOG JR
What did your tq the castle nut to ?
Can these fit on 07 Dodge Charger ?
Did you take anything off to get the rear bolt off? The nut is either hitting something or wiring in the way
Odd, I can't find them on thier site anymore. They
discontinue?
Good video!!!!
Are those worth it Over the control arm with ball joint
Video was awesome
Thank you.
How do I check my specs ? 2016 Chrysler 300
Two questions, do you think the car handles a little better with the new forged SPC control arms, and do they weigh more less or the same as the oem ones?
I haven’t tried hitting the turns hard to know if it improved grip. But to answer you question about the weight. The new control arms are a little heavier.
I legit had my control arm snap clean in half and the wheel go flying off while driving two days ago, do you think it was from the bad roads near my house that weakened and shifted it or a manufacturer defect? Also I just put on new tires and rims not even three weeks ago!
Its very possible it was fatigue from bad roads. I seen it my self with bent control arms.
Nice video man, appreciate the control arm swap.
SIDE NOTE:How you gonna wear Dodgers AND SF Giants gear tho??? 🤔😆😆 J/P all in good fun ⚾️⚾️⚾️
So the stick control arms seems to be spring loaded. Like it has tension on it. But the SOC replacement has no spring in it? That doesn’t seem right? Or did that part just get skipped?
The upper control arm is linked to the lower control arm by the steering knuckle. The weight of the car sits, from top to bottom, on the shock tower, which rests on the top of the coil spring, which sits on top of the spring perch on the strut/shock, and the strut rests on the lower control arm, which forces the upper control arm to follow its motions by way of the knuckle. If you support the lower control arm with a floor jack, remove the ball joint nut at the upper control arm, then lower the jack to where it still is supporting the lower control arm but is also pulling the upper one down slightly, you should be able to smack the flat machined spot on the upper part of the knuckle just below the ball joint itself, and generally the knuckle will slip of the upper ball joint stud. At that point the upper control arm has no preload besides the bushing position itself. But at no time will the upper control arm go flying upwards, as the spring is no longer connected to the upper arm once the ball joint is disconnected. Even then, the lower arm may spring towards the floor, but the upper won’t spring upwards.
Would these help with negative camber caused by lowering springs?
4 months late but yes.
My caster in my camber are a little off in the front should I replace my lower ball joints and my lower control arms? .... I just replaced my upper control arms links and sturts ?...
Did you raise the car and check if there was play in the ball joints. If you can move it around and see shifting in between. It might be worn down and should be replaced.
Did you buy this car brand new how long the original Last you? For me the original get so soft and feels uncomfortable the car sway around and stuff
I bought it new October of 2016
So I have a question because you had to replace those when you turn your tires each way with the steering wheel for you hearing a noise that led you to believe these were bad which obviously I seen you change it it was bad
The camber was severely off and it was wearing out my front tires prematurely. The camber is not adjustable on these cars, which doesn't help the situation.
Forgot to ask what size socket the balljoint nut and control arm bolts are. 18mm?
I have to check
I'm looking to do this myself, from what I'm seeing, it is 18mm on the balljoint nut, and I think either 16 or 18mm on the control arm bolts.
Where did you get that gear puller? Look for a good one as my control arms won’t come out as I’m replacing the struts 6 months after doing this install.
I bought the gear puller on eBay. It saved me a lot of time by using it.
Yeah I was fighting mine for over an hour before I gave up and I am trying to find similar puller.
www.ebay.com/itm/6pc-Pitman-Arm-Puller-Ball-Joint-Separator-Tie-Rod-Front-End-Service-Tool-Kit-/252045598332
Got something similar and it worked perfect. Thanks for the video it helped a lot.
Can you explain why you set it to negative 5 castor. I was going to set it to zero because my camber is off after lowering my wide body scat pack. Should I set to -5 castor before taking it to get aligned?
I was wondering the same thing. I lowered my 2016 Charger RT with a stage one from Mopar and my caster is 9.6 degrees on the left and 9.7 degrees on the right. I’m not sure what to set the caster to.
Andre Wilson So I installed my front SPC upper control arms. I set it to zero and they were able to get the alignment perfect. I’d go with Zero. FYI you may also have to change front sway var end links. I went with BMR adjustable ones. Hope this helps. I don’t think people realize what’s involved when you lower these challengers. You really have to change everything if you want to get it back to spec. I’m in the process of changing out my rear upper control arms. I went with ADD performance. $$ But quality.
Great install now here is a question is the camber problem common with the stock set up?
Yeah they are prone to bending over time. Especially under very hard driving like hitting a speed bump at 40 miles an hour. 🤔
Scat 426 yeah hitting big bumps will do that.... 😂 can’t wait to have to do this to the camaro eventually
😅 yeah I know right! Hopefully you don’t have to do it any any time soon those aren’t cheap. Close to $350 for them.
The camber is always negative on these cars
Will this help my challenger from rattling.??
Gurgee Pineda only if your upper control arm bushings are already worn out.
Just smack the flat spot in front of the ball joint n it pops right out
Mine is the flat spot on the knuckle and popped out
Any recommendations for the front lower control arms?
Big hammer
Aad is making a baller set, but you’re going to pay for them
Where did you order the SPC control arms?
Good old EBay
Scat Speed send me the link bro! I need em
Just got my set today. I have an RT do you happen to know the torque specs?
spdermnky 66 foot pounds for the bolts and 135 for the ball joint nuts.
@@scatspeed3114i have a charger scatpack and im having the same problem with wear on the inside of my front tires, do you recommend camber bolts or control arm? And how much did you pay to allign your car?
I’ve never tried the camber bolts. I just went straight for the adjustable upper control arms because I wasn’t sure how well the bolts work. I paid 90 dollars to get the front adjusted.
Bro, if you just replaced the upper control arm with a Mopar factory spec it would have also fixed that issue. At least now when your suspension gets messed up you can now adjust it. For me, o just redid the front suspension for $200 my self and got a $75 alignment 👌
Will these solve the factory camber adjustment problems?
Yes they do a great job adjusting camber alignment. They are highly recommended
Scat Speed Thanks
The factory negative camber is there to help it move through corners
Quicl question how did you get the bolts to go back in so easy? I got the frint bolt in but the one facing the firewall i cant get it to go back in for nothing any help would be good
Zachery Huber Well I had enough clearance to install the bolt. It wasn’t that easy either. You might have to loosen the bolts on the shock tower to make some space.
@@scatspeed3114 thank you so much. I will do that first thing in the morning i will be glad to have the bugger done. Thanks again and just loosen them a couple turns or?
Is this control arm safe for driving? I am asking because the adjusting looks susceptible to move,
It shouldn’t move If its torqued down properly. 130 foot pounds.
@@scatspeed3114 Thank you for the information. Next week I have to get installed an adjustable control arm because I installed recently lowering springs for my Challenger.
No problem. Just to clarify its 120 not 130 foot pounds. I double checked my notes.
I've got to ask you what cause the control arm to bend??
INSTANT INSANITY 392 im sure it was the rough roads in my area. It didn’t help either that I hit a speed bump at 40 mph.
@@scatspeed3114 That's probably what did it! I smacked a curb trying to ”parallel" park, & bent something like you did. Worst part was the it chewed up the lip of my wheel. 😭
Which wheels do you have?
@@scatspeed3114 Aftermarket, Marquee M3247, black & polished.
Hey, if I am getting coilovers would I need to do this? I have negative camber on my car due to lowering springs
eunit08 if you have car like mine. Yes because the camber in non adjustable on these cars.
@@scatspeed3114 I failed to mention that it's the rear wheels. Do you have a link.
www.ebay.com/itm/SPC-Rear-Camber-Kit-for-Chrysler-Dodge-66050-/141000460159
You should keep the negative camber if you dont mind the tire wear...it will help you hit corners better
@@hemiplow1297 i havent been tp an auto cross but Ive been down the drag strip a few times
Did you get the rear camber adjusted?
EbenTv no but I need to do it soon.
@@scatspeed3114 I have a Challenger Hellcat. - The driver rear side seems to be a little noise when I turn and also experiencing the most amount of inner wear on the tire. I can not figure out the root cause and some are two other shops. I was thinking maybe this might be the cause.
EbenTv how long have you had the car? When I do a tight turn I can hear my diff. Whining. It’s has always done since new. I might be your diff. Have you gone to an alignment shop
@@scatspeed3114 I have 3 times but they never say anything. I hope its not the difference. I was thinking it might be the e-brake causing the sound.
@@scatspeed3114 I went and did an diff fluid change and everything seems good now. Thanks.
When u ever gonna do video on the old school one bro and u not playing with this car bro keep up the hard work family
Soon and thank you.
I just needed to sort out some things with my challenger.
Well hate to say it the dodge one looks cheap uggg ur replacement looks better
Its heavier and stronger for sure.
Lame 🙄... GAY....ricer car
A dodge river car? Oh ok. That’s interesting.