Installing a RAINSCREEN - Tips + Busting Myths!
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
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Jake Bruton talks rainscreening, but he won't talk about the why behind this technique because we know by now that if you ventilate on the backside. then things will dry. and things that dry last longer than things that don't. Instead he'll be shattering three myths about rainscreening that will simplify the process.
Myth #1: You need a really big or a really small space.
Jake Says: You don't need really big or small spaces. 1/4 to 3/8-inch behind your cladding is enough space to ventilate.
Myth #2: You need a really fancy and expensive product, and many of them.
Jake Says: You don't have to use a fancy product. Many manufacturers make good products that you can rely on, and not all of those products are necessary. (Jake will give us some of his top picks and recommendations, too.)
Myth #3: You need a bug screen.
Jake Says: You don't have to have a bug screen at the top and the bottom. (Don't panic, Jake will explain.)
I don't know about not having a bug screen. I mean, sure, maybe in your case you haven't seen an issue (yet) but relatively speaking bug screen costs nothing and easy to add at this stage.
Ripped plywood great tip 👍
Yes I would always install a bug screen, super cheap and easy to install before strapping, I would also insist on treated strapping, especially in coastal areas. Great video!
Yeah, respectfully disagree. Ladybugs love warm spaces of that depth.
You use bug screen at the top and bottom.
@@Zickafoose2024He might be referring to the open joint siding he talked about where they left an 1/4” open gap between the cedar siding boards.
Nice to the point post! No endless product placement. I enjoy this format.
Good info. Would love to see a follow up video on how you flashed/detailed windows and other penetrations with this system.
I've kept bees for years now. I also keep 'bee hotels' for many of our native pollinators. 3/8" is PLENTY of room for many of them to make brood nests and food stores. There are beekeepers who specialize in handling cut outs from external walls to extract colonies from homes and businesses. Sufficed to say, I recommend the bug screen... That is unless you don't mind having the exterior of your home serving as a 'bee hotel' for all the wonderful smaller native pollinators (especially the solo types like the mason bee), or critters like the various mud dauber wasp types). :)
Splendid video otherwise. Thanks!
I couldn't agree more. 3/8" is enough room for every nesting insect I can think of. Might be enough for some flying mammals....
@@seancrowley7520Thanks for that. Which size would you recommend?
It is not just a matter of size. What is claiming is that stack effect is creating an airflow able to deter insects. Is that true? I have no idea :)
@@boeing757pilot rather than recommending a specific air gap, I recommend putting a bug screen (like coravent) at the bottom (and if possible the top) of the wall assembly.
@@maurozammarano6651 can’t say that I know which, if any, nesting insects would be deterred by the gentle air flow caused by the stack effect ventilation. Any such claim with regards to deterring nesting insects on the basis of stack effect feels dubious to me.
For what it’s worth, I run my bee colonies with vented bottom boards, which absolutely creates a stack effect if this sort, and none of my colonies have absconded as a result.
Bug screens are cheap insurance IMO. I have seen rotten battens and extensive insect damage where rain screens were used. It cost me 300$ in materials to add a Cor-A-Vent top and bottom on my 1200sf house. The bugs wont nest in the vented area but they will find your weakest link.
Using coravent myself. Bug screen is mandatory
Curious if you layered hardware cloth / galvanized mesh over your Coravent to block out rodents?
Not recommending bug screen is nuts.
Now I want to see that v-groove! We used it a few years back when it first came out and we love it.
what is the v-groove?
The question I have with the Zip system, is everything makes sense sealing up the nail/screw holes with their sealant and the seams with the tape. Everything at that point seems pretty well element proof. However, how do you resolve the fasteners penetrating the Zip sheathing when you attach the furring strips? Would you put that same liquid sealant on behind where the furring strips meet the sheathing? Or is it just not needed?
Not needed. Water that gets behind the siding is mostly going to roll down the backside of the siding and thus never even touch the zip sheathing. The friction between the wood and the shank of the nail will mostly keep water out if it did hit that point anyway...it would hit that spot and just roll down. And of course this rainscreen allows for airflow so if it did get a little wet it would dry out and be absolutely fine.
My builder just put siding directly on top of the zip. Should I worry ?
@@14sasst Yes and no. That’s not uncommon. Will a space prevent some long term issues? Probably. Keep up with painting and make sure your painters calk everything properly and you should be fine.
Doing stripped plywood makes so much sense. Was going to buy 1x4 furring but I am sure the plywood is a cheaper and better option.
Cedar is an insect deterrent so not sure that was a great corollary for "it would work the same with OSB"
I’m curious about diagonal vs. vertical rain screen furring and why the diagonal was an issue highlighted in the previous video.
Rain screen is all about shedding water. Horizontal surfaces hold moisture.
Rissinger had a great solution to this, bug screen was a corrugated plastic with a mesh on the bottom that stapled along the bottom and top edges. Same air flow and helps ensure bugs in the walls is minimized. Product was cheap too.
Wasn't there a debate about the softness of the screen material where rodents could chew threw it? but in Matt's case, he had 3/4" gap. 1/4" inch, no (er most) rodents could enter, but opens possibility for bugs.
If your cladding has gaps, you'll need to put something over the Zip to keep the UV off it. Good video!
Great tip Jake, I was going to use 1x's and this makes so much more sense.
I know you liquid flash any penetration in the Zip and tape seams, does it not matter when attaching the strips through the zip into the studs?
I have the same question.
Great idea about the Plywood, BUT I would love to know if we should use Pressure Treated ply??? I'm at that point of my build where I need to make a decision. Please help with comments
Matt mentioned in another video that you don't need pressure treated with this kind of construction because the wood has the ability to dry out if it does get wet. Certainly won't hurt anything but will just be overkill I think
Joe Listburek, noted building science boffin, says treated strips are not necessary; as Zach mentions it can all dry out, so no problem with a little wetting.
Must not have box elder bugs where he is, their favorite places are those 1/4 - 3/8 gaps under siding.
Yeah, I'd still add a bug screen. And if I was adding exterior insulation, I'd have 1/8" galvanized screen, or some vented sheet metal, to keep rodents from gnawing into it to nest.
what is the best material for a rain screen behind board and batten siding?
Jake, Does Hardie give you a a longer warranty if you use a rain screen Vs. no rain screen?
no hardie does not give you a longer warranty, but they do suggest that you use a ventilated rainscreen.
I feel like this is borderline irresponsible advice. The current science suggests a 1/2" minimum for actual airflow and drying. Bugs get in the tiniest spaces. You must not remodel much.
Oh thanks so much was about to spend $600 or more on cora vent nice product but still every but helps my budget
Thanks - very informative.
the missing detail is how do you get the top-and-bottom venting above doors and windows and below windows?
You need to have breaks in to your strapping so that air can move horizontally into/out of these cavities. Be careful that the breaks don't line up with your siding attachment making locations.
Boxelder bugs…. Those damn things can fit anywhere, they would plug up that rain-screen space by the tens of thousands.
Those things are insidious! !!!!
What does the top vent and bottom drain look like and how effective is it? Are you using Vinyl trims?
Would a radiant barrier on the zip system help increase the thermal resistance? If so would more air space be more affective?
Thanks
if by "increase the thermal resistance" you are referring to thermal conductivity (or "r-value"), then the answer to your question is "no".
@@paperwait9611 Thanks 😊
If you live in a hot climate, a radiant barrier with a gap makes for a great system.
Well done!
From what I remember reading, LP requires 2x4 strapping to maintain the warranty. Is that a factor when choosing a rain screen application/method?
never seen a lumberyard that didn't have treated 3/8 ply furring strips.. Our Inspectors want bug screen..top and bottom.
@Mtidry seems to have some good rain screen products
I'm building a shed and the outer walls will be 7/16 Zip, do I need to add siding overtop? If I left the Zip walls exposed to the elements, how long would it last approximately (Western PA)?
How about using this horizontally for board and batten. Would that be ok?
Can you use the strips of wood for an air gap before applying stucco paper and lath?
Don't the nails penitrate the sealing tape when nailing the strapping? Will that allow water into the sheathing? How far apart should the strapping nails be spaced?
I am in the beginning stages of talking to my contractor, and wanting to be sure I get what I need.
I have not seen zip on any of the new construction in my area. I want to know best practices, so that I will see the mistakes, if they occur.
Thank you.
No, there won't be pressure to drive water into those nail holes. The water will, instead, fall down the air gap.
Doesn't vinyl siding inherently create a gap thus making a rainscreen unnecessary?
Is there a specific fastening schedule on those furring straps?
can i do vinyl siding over a rain screen ? fiber cement order was pushed back 4x :\
Nailed it
Inexperience is suggesting no bug screen is irresponsible and voids the warranty
Well let's hope a fire doesn't happen
I love the info but i think some of this shit is getting a little crazy. Ive pulled siding off 100 yr old houses that is in really good shape, and they definitely dont do this extra spacing for venting. If these materials are that cheap to where you need 3/8 of space then ill stick with the old ways of doing things. I feel like its all getting redundant and cost tons of extra money. By the team that stuff dtarts to go bad, someone new will be bulldozing it. Theres no such thing as a lifetime warranty.
Bullshit on the bugs. Sorry. I'm redoing parts of my siding right now and there is NO cladding. There are tons of brown recluses behind my siding. They don't need or want hardly any space at all. They are happy with 1/16th of an inch - even less - until they are fully grown.
Gap to last longer. Really Really. I'll find something that will last forever. Bye.