The Idiot Proof Way To Reduce Thermal Bridging
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- čas přidán 5. 06. 2024
- This video covers how to install Huber Zip R6 panels, part of the Zip System Sheathing family. These panels combine Zip (water resistive barrier + air control layer) with 1" polyisocyanurate foam insulation. In 1 step we improve the thermal performance of the wall, protect it from moisture and decrease air leakage. Energy codes continue to progress towards tighter homes and more insulation. This is an idiot proof way to meet those codes. By "idiot proof", I mean AwesomeFramers proof 😂😂😂 You'll see what I mean in the video.
To understand what we are trying to accomplish, I recommend reading this article by Steve Bascek bit.ly/UnderstandingRValue You can find Steve here bit.ly/SteveBaczek
I would also suggest following Christine Williamson from www.buildingsciencefightclub.... and following her on Instagram. She is a fantastic teacher.
Oh if you use a drone for commercial work, you need to be part107 certified. Commercial work includes social media like CZcams if you plan to make an income off of that. I watched a video about this last May and then purchased the Part 107 Course sso.teachable.com/secure/2458... I studied and learned for 1 month and then took my test. I scored a 95%, which is a testament to how good Greg and the crew over there teach. That link will save you $100 off the course and support this channel.
0:00 What is Thermal Bridging?
0:56 Tips on Layout
4:10 Method 1 Outside Corner Taping
6:02 Method 2 Outside Corner Taping
7:09 Inside Corner Taping
8:14 Routing Windows
8:24 Proper Nail Size
8:56 Protecting the Foam
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#building #construction #framing #huberpartner
Some of the most informative videos about building I’ve seen since Larry Hahn was around. Please Keep it up. A lot of people make videos about building, but the ones who can explain “the why” are the ones to watch! Thanks for the info
Definitely I agree 👍
Larry hahn is amazing. And also i follow a guy for BC canada. Builds houses alone and posts the vids.
@@randyjohnson3246 who is that?
I built my first house with Larry. Legend!
This stuff stinks
As a 3rd gen carpenter with 16 years experience, I admire your skill. I share your vids with all the guys on my site.
Pleasant banter. Succinct and fact-loaded. Even as excellent camera angles and post production.
Natural born teachers like us are few and far between. Great crew makes you shine!!
We spend months looking for folks like you!
OMG THANK YOU! No one else has covered Zip-R sheathing in this amount of detail; not even Huber!
Appreciate you taking the time to make these videos! Especially for us DIYers who don't have the experience of doing multiple jobs with a product, seeing how the pros do it and learning from your experiences and what you do helps so much! Bonus, like some said, is knowing the why, or seeing some of the techniques since there's always a few ways to do things. Thank you.
Watched hundreds of videos and you are the only one who showed how the corners go together especially with R (foam) sheathing. Very informative and you even gave a visual computer representation and measurements. A must watch for anyone considering using R sheathing on how to frame the layout and corners. Thank you very much for this video. It greatly expanded my understanding.
Thanks so much bro 🙏
devils in the details! wonderful job.
A nice throwback video to include Shane! Another excellent video as usual. Love seeing the max high pressure nailer! Had the first chance to use mine for 75 sheets of advantech sheathing. What a pleasure it was to use.
Nice - videos from pros. I'm shocked at how few people install sheathing while the wall is on the deck. You can square it first, install the sheathing and the wall stays square when you tip it up. Seeing videos of people climbing ladders with a 4x8 sheet...[shakes head]. The corner details are good info too. Thxs.
This is what I want. I want such skilled learning that I can do for 180 years. That's why it's so rewarding watching these guys do such great work.
Finally somebody that sheaths the walls while on the ground/deck. Here in Michigan that's the we do it. So fast,easy and safe.
I don't understand why anyone wouldn't unless they can't. I was taught this way back in the early 90's.
@@AwesomeFramers I've traveled all across this country and seen them sheath after the walls/studs were raised. I've seen this in Florida, Arizona, California and many other states out west to down south. I agree with you we've been do it our way since 60's.
Thanks for explaining things so well. You’re clear and concise, much appreciated!
Thanks bro! I'm trying to improve
you have added thermal mass into the home.
EXCELLENT. The entire structure is now helping stable temperature.
Thank you for putting this together! You guys are the best!!
Great vid. Kudos for cutting paneling with a track saw - why not for Pete’s sake? I got snickered at when I brought a chop saw and my “Festo” brand track saw onto the lot 25 years ago. Nice to see us finally catching up to 1990’s Germany!
Btw, my original 48t Festo blade is still in regular rotation.
Hi guys love your vid’s. We have been using R-12 zip for walls on this development. We have noticed that the width of the sheets are 1/8 short of 48” and varying sheets are 1/8 short on the length. We have told the suppliers to see what they say. But on long walls we start running off layout quick. Have you guys noticed this? Oh ya we are in northern VT. I’m not sure why we are using the R-12 it’s the developer’s choice,but we use a Big Bertha 4 1/8 spiral ring shank nail. But we noticed we are the only contractors in the development also using longer nails around windows.
Thanks and I appreciate you guys!
I know the panels are supposed to be "sized for spacing" meaning they are slightly less than 48" x 96" which allows for the sheets to be gapped. Are you gapping the sheets?
Thanks for the kinds words, try to stay warm up there 😁😁
You don't truly know if something is idiot proof until you've had me try it.
I really like your videos, they are very well done, entertaining and informative.
I used to frame in my formative years, now I'm mostly remodeling and additions, would be fun to work with you guys I think.
Your voice over ... and production of vids is absolutely beyond the Universe. It has been overly impressive how great these vids are and seeing the build. Can't wait for more subscribers to discover the greatness here. CHEERS! Amazing!
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Love the video
Learn so much as I’m preparing to do my own build
Good info. Thanks! Gonna be using Zip on our houses soon!!
Terry
This will be a more common practice when the IECC becomes more widely enforced in cold climates. This with a flash and batt of 2x4 bay rockwool is a killer assembly. I'm in zone 6 so we ran the r-12 with the 2" of close cell and then filled our 2x6 framing bays with 2x4 rockwool. Nice vid.
What fastener did you use for the R12? We are zone 4c
@@AwesomeFramers jumbo 4" framers with the bostitch Big Berta
@@carterlarscheid6213 that's what I was thinking. We can't use it here because of earthquakes.
Great video. That helped to show the correct way to install those panel. And as always ROLL THE TAPE
Nice video Tim. I learned some things.
I wonder.. does Huber make a tape with release paper that can be split lengthwise. Sure would make inside corners easier. Maybe outside corners also.
Your explanation was detailed to the bones.
Awesome video!! What do you do for the bottom or the connection to foundation?
Would love to see this system applied to a retrofit. I have 2x4 wall currently and would like to add this to the outside when I reside my home. Now I understand I would need extension jams for my windows but they would all be replaced at the same time as my siding.
I installed zip r-6 on my 2x4 walls last year. House was build in early 1970, so insulation inside the walls was poor. Since you are opening the wall cavity, You basically have 2 options. Add 2inch strips to make the wall thicker (2x6) if you are planning on replacing all windows, or use zip r3. I didn’t replace the windows but I had 2 old layers of sheathing to remove, so the windows was not a problem. I removed old tho foam insulation from walls and installed mineral wool Rockwool (rodents don’t like it and better R value than rolled insulation) in wall cavity and finished wall with composite siding. Thermal comfort in the house is much better. Definitely can recommend.
7:20 seems like you need get with ZIP system and have them make a flashing tape that has a half cut lengthwise on the paper backing so you peel the other half for taping corners (just and idea)
I love the music. Almost as much as the info. Thanks!
Thanks for all the very detailed explanation!
Thanks!
Thanks. We do something similar but use 7/16 OSB and 1" foam from DOW. We do it that way because DOW Chemical donates the foam to Habitat for Humanity for FREE! I like the explanation about the framing and this is how I do it but with 3-4 different people laying out framing, it's hard to teach "Old Dogs" new tricks. Keep up with the videos. They're great.
G'day! Are you placing the foam behind the sheet of OSB or are you placing the foam on the outside of the OSB sheet? The foam if joints acts as a WRB so just curious as to which way is most practical..
@@provocativepolitic We put the foam over the OSB, tape all the joints and then use vinyl siding for the Habitat for Humanity houses. The R factor is then close to a 6" wall with fiberglass batts.
@@WayneSmith-yf3fg wow. That's amazing detail. common in Europe but even high-end homes in America don't consider the thermal bridging and energy savings this technique provides. I would love to volunteer. Whereabouts you?
When you put up your corner cladding, over the lap siding, AND over ZIP-R, is there anything special you have to do? Get wider corner trim, for example?
I've never used Zip System sheathing. It looks pretty good, but I still believe the added 'flashing layer ' of Tyvek has a lot of benefits. Especially with what we now know about water infiltration and the rain screen methods developed from that information. What are your thoughts on that?
Using zip r with tape.. walls are air tight. Less labor coz in one install, Water protection and insulation canbe done in one shot.
You Guys are great! Was curious if you could cut 45s to join the corners together? Is there a reason why you should not do that?
Hey Kevin, that is a great question. I never considered that, I'll ask the tech guys at Huber. My first reaction is why not?
should the bottom of the panel be sealed with tape? You answered my question at the end, thanks. Is there a siding video that shows how the bottom is dealt with?
You forgot to mention nail spacing requirements. I don’t know the exact requirements, but I do know that the thicker the foam, the closer the nails need to be to get the shear strength. Great video though. I learn a little more each time you make one. Thanks.
That’s the one thing that worries me about this sheathing. Having a decent part of the nail basically unsupported and without ply-stud friction means there will be a lot more movement of the nail, and even with smaller nail spacing there could be failures in the long term.
@@PrebleStreetRecordsthe shear properties are absolutely changed if you’re adding Zip R. No two ways about it. Nailing schedule, fastener type, details should all be reviewed if you are changing from solid sheathing on stamped plans.
I live in and flip (kind of) oder homes. I remove drywall or outside siding and screw on 2x2 diagonals 2' on center to the studs, insulate and replace the drywall or siding. Outlets and switches need to be moved 1.5" inward if drywall was removed. Older homes sometimes don't have insulation so opening the wall makes insulation easier and better coverage. The diagonals reduce thermal bridging and I get a 2x6 wall thickness. The diagonals adds a tremendous amount of shear stiffness, maybe better than panel sheathing. Given the recent price increase for panels I save a bit of cash. Diagonal bracing was used before panels were produced. Old school.
No that diagonal strapping you add does NOT add anywhere near the lateral resistance you see here. The code tables show that.
Just bought a reno and noticed today the mice tunneled thru the foam around each 2 x 6 to make themselves a mouse highway straight across the back of the house from room to room and up to the 2nd floor and attic, with pop-out holes through the sheetrock. Found the problem when I kicked the wall and it tripped a breaker from where the mice stripped the wiring in the wall. I don't know how a fire hasn't already started from electrical damage, but the mice tunnels would make it super easy for the fire to quickly burn up the foam and ride the path into the attic. Wasn't Zip, but I don't know whether rodents will notice a taste difference. The initial problem was caused by a plumber putting several pipes up through sub flooring and into walls without sealing intrusion points...so nice. Plain Zip Sheathing first on 2 x walls will be the way I'll build going forward.
What would be a preventive solution against mice eating into the foam? Perhaps an bent aluminum flash on the bottom edge? Like a large J but that could trap water and new issues. Do they make a perforated aluminum flash to bend into a J? Just 🤔. ??
Do you know if the r-sheathing is adequate for diagonal strength; the sheathing being separated by 1" foam from the framing changes the shear resistance. Thanks for the great demonstration on using zip r-sheathing. The continuous insulation saves energy. I worked on a 1912 riverfront house, we used zip R sheathing on the walls; to control the depth of nails we used the gun so nails were proud and then used a hammer to drive flush. The old sheathing was 1x diagonal and before using the r-sheath we repaired and re-nailed the existing sheathing boards covered with 15 lb. felt and use chalk lines to mark studs then 3 1/4" galv. nails. We pre-primed and painted 8" cypress and used 1/2" x 2 treated plywood vertically to make a rain screen and mesh and screen at the top and bottom insect protection. Back painting and painting ends of field cuts made the wood siding durable. This project is in eastern Virginia and we had 8" beveled cypress siding available from the mill as an economical siding.
Need y’all in eastern Tn to build my mountain home. Nice buildable area with spectacular views!
I hear you. I own 15 beautiful acres in Ball Play, TN.. I'm having a hard time finding a builder.
Nice video! How do you prevent thermal bridging on the inside corner? The foam isn't continuous at that corner. On the outside corner, both sheets of Zip-R overlap on the foam.
If the inside corner stud for the second sheet is offset from the OSB of the first sheet (or flush to the edge) and the cavity is insulated, there would be no bridging through the depth of the stud cavity, amirite?
amazing jib awsome work greetings from the netherlands
8:16 Can you define "longer" please? Would a 2" Flush Cut router bit work ok? Or even longer? Thanks!
I just did my 1954 home. The difference is mindblowing.
they make 6" zip flashing tape and flex tape that i would recommend for outer corners of buildings. building a 40x60 shed myself right now and installing zip and the wider tape works much better on those corners. prevents need for overlapping layers and has one continuous piece from top to bottom in what i consider to be a critical exterior detail.
Another great video 👍 thank you.
Quick blast with the leafblower after the rip, I'll remember that one
Do you get people asking you if they could come work for you a lot? You always use the best stuff. Those houses must be real nice.
So I am getting ready to build a small retirement cottage here in CT. Do I use ICF, SIP's, stick built? I'm on the side stick/w the fact of eliminating thermal bridging. I've read way to much on all of this though and I am still just a bit confused. My question is when adding the exterior R factor does this or doesn't it move the dew point where it can collect moisture in the wall cavity? Isn't there factors to take into consideration when choosing the foam thickness? I sure would like to know! Thanks
I would just use conventional best practices for your area.
Great tips , like the cad details
Thanks!!
From your experience building single family homes which system is more affordable; ZIPsystems or Tyvek? I do take into account the time savings ZIPsystems provides, but if someone is doing a build themselves what would you recommend?
Which router bit are you using to cut the Zip R sheathing? Thanks!
Could you clarify why you lap 3” specifically on the inside corner? Is that suggested by Huber? Wouldn’t there be a chemical seal on pressure that would prevent vapor? Thanks!
Hey Eric, great questions. The lap on the tape is a Huber requirement for tape to tape connection its shown in the video here www.huberwood.com/zip-system/insulated-r-sheathing#about
I see you use a lot of avantech floor sheathing. How does weyerhaeuser edge gold stack up to it? And where do you get your advantech from? I'm up near Tacoma and all the yards I've checked nobody stocks it.
Weyerhauser Edge Gold holds up extremely well. We've used that for nearly 20 years and never had a complaint with it.
I order through Arrow Lumber and I believe they usually get the Huber products through IWP. You're right, it often isn't a stock item at the lumberyard, but its usually next day from the distributor.
I live in Pierce County, you have a recommendation on where to buy the Zip R6? The local lumber yard is charging $101 a sheet.....
On an outside corner where do you get that extra 1and 7/16" for the second panel since the panels only come in 48" wide and studs are spaced 16" apart. What is the opposite end of that second panel fastened to since its displaced 1 and 7/16" and won't be covering a stud?
One thing that I do at the corners is tape 2” wider than my corner boards so if my caulk joint fails into the future the water is met with tape and not sheathing.
What about miter cutting at 45° the edge of the sheet when you are installing at corners ? Will it make sense or it’s too time consuming compared to just burn one inch by overlapping the sheet?
great question, I'll ask Huber. I don't personally want to cut the 45, and would assume that that joint needs to be tight from an energy perspective.
The layout shown results in a full thickness of insulation as well as a shorter joint compared to a 45 degree joint. More work is not always more better.
Is that material structural..? I’m assuming it is..? Tyvec and siding next? No other insolation? Thanks!
If you are using structural plywood for shear strength, does it go under the zip panels? Areas with earthquakes require this sheathing for safety.
Zip panels are Structural 1 panels and provide shear strength greater than your plywood. Zip R panels also provide shear, Huber has the values published on their page
Very nice thank you for sharing
very good explanation of the layout on those walls. Especially since u took the time to show it in sketch up. Thanks bro
Only one stupid question. On the lower part of the side wall(time: 5.03 and 9:39), you have 2 ft pieces which seem to be about an inch below the vertical pieces. How big is this gap and is it filled with expanded foam or some type of insulated sealant, prior to taping? Thank you...
What would be the opinion if u put the foam on the inside under the drywall. Something tells me it would be better at least for the northern climate
My only question I've wondered since my dad used zip r on his detached workshop in Minnesota. Because of the foam between the shear panel and framing does this result in less shear strength compared to shear panel tight against framing? My point the length of nail through the foam is subject to bending as the framed wall encounters forces causing racking and I predict the bending in the nails causes the shear panels to move with the forces more than it would with the shear tight against framing. Which could actually be an advantage in resisting seismic forces as the structure could possibly absorb the forces more so than if ridgid. I'm absolutely not talking down on zip r as I think it's a great product just wondering your thoughts on the topic or if you've seen test results between zip and zip r and if there is a discrepancy in shear values.
This is my question as well. I love the idea of zipR but I wonder if it would ever fly in my seismic zone. Thanks as always for the great video.
They are in B.C. which is in the ring of fire/high seismicity. His reference to his engineer's spec for the nail length leads me to believe that they are ahead of it on their seismic engineering.
I'm in a seismic zone in B.C. I'd have to consult an engineer about shear/seismic, but I'm also in a coastal temperate rainforest and we cannot put a vapor barrier on the cold side of an opaque wall assembly, so to utilize this product I'd have to go with a fully external insulation system and leave the stud cavity hollow. I suspect every climactic zone is different but might be worth looking into for you're region.
Could these work on a post and beam structure instead of using SIP panels?
Ya boyyyy!!...you guys are so awesome 😎..it's even in yur name... appreciate it brother
Love those videos :-)
Fantastic videos. Without getting a full on quote I can't get any price guides on the price of the r sheathing, what are they a board for the r6 panel? And what software you using for the framing details? Thanks 👍
www.sketchup.com/
I don't know about current pricing, its been all over the map in 2021 and I've heard its going up again.
@@AwesomeFramers I ve heard nearly 100 a board which is nutso. I tried SketchUp but it made my eyes glaze over. Any courses you recommend specifically for framers to gain confidence
@@provocativepolitic I started learning it back in 2009 and am terrible with it 😂😂😂😂😂😂 @wiker_Dos has some great videos
@@AwesomeFramers Can you use it for blueprints to propose for permits at your building department or do you still have to outsource a draftsman? Thanks again for your responses. I have quite a lot of gorgeous land in the NC mountains I am keen to develope on. As a successful painter, plaster and decorator having business in Australia and UK I am trying to make my mark in the US and transition my focus on building as the GC a few spec cabins. Cheers
@@provocativepolitic You could, but we outsource to a designer.
So in real life living with my house being built like this. After several years of being hit by high winds. The panels work loose around the nails, and now the siding needs to be removed and proper wood sheathing be put on.
Have you thought of using an inside drywall corner roller for that tape?
I have, but the stickiness of the tape makes that hard to use, though I haven't tried it.
8:59 Showed blocking for a 2-foot strip of ZIP R-6. I don't know why you chose this approach since the ZIP R sheathing comes in 9 and 10 feet. Was it less expensive to go with two pieces versus one piece?
At the time, 10' sheets weren't available. This was during the supply chain issue and record high materials prices in 2021
Very informative
What about the layout of the sill plates? Are the panels landing on concrete, or are they proud of the edge of the concrete?
Hi Gary, I thought I addressed that in the section of the video where I tape the bottom. I probably could have been clearer.
Yes, it sticks out past the mudsill. In my view this is a non issue in that no one will notice it, the siding extends 1 1/2" below it and final landscaping must be 6" or more below the siding according to the code.
@@AwesomeFramers I see. I built my place 20+ years ago using home made zip system, since it wasn't available then, using 1" celotex insulation between the sheathing and the framing. Same thing at the sill. The issue that has developed over time is that I have had mice chew through the insulation as it isn't protected. I wish I'd framed it so that only the sheathing was proud of the concrete and not the insulation. Live and learn!
2:32 What's the point of that "on edge 2x6`` flat" board? It seems like a redundant member with some minor thermal bridging. Is it in codes?
excellent video!
What CAD program is that? Amazing vids, your sense of humor only outdone by your skills! :-P
Never mind found your answer on another comment (Sketchup) Thanks!
SketchUp
Given Zip is an OSB product that created a good airtight assembly, aren’t their concerns for lack of vapor diffusion through the assembly? Or is the baseline assumption they’re going hardcore with dehumidification?
I'm not an expert on this. I know that vapor diffusion isn't an issue in our climate with this thickness of foam. I would imagine that in humid climates the wall design would done in conjunction with the mechanical design. For example down south where ac is common, that will dehumidify.
Good question, I just don't know and each location has its own variables to take into consideration. We are climate zone 4c and it is very forgiving here.
@@AwesomeFramers Rad response. In our climate 4c my guess is Zip/OSB poses the greatest risk for roof sheathing. Not so much in vented attic scenarios, but more so in conditioned attic scenarios where vapor diffusion can’t occur because of Zip/OSB. The issue further compounds if the roofer uses a non-permeable WRB.
For wall cavities in climate 4c I think the greatest risk is super hot summers in scenarios where cold air conditioning exists in the home. This can create wall cavity condensation if insulation thickness isn’t calculated correctly. Zip r-sheathing can trap that condensation…OR prevent the condensation altogether if the foam is thick enough. That said, using products like T-stud would completely solve this issue at the walls.
Nice work
I see alot of the videos use newer building technologies. I'm in a very remote area so things like this scare people, which makes me mad. I want to use better products. So my question is this...cost wise, is it better to use the panel and insulation Batts inside, or just use regular 7/16s with a spray foam inside?
Spray foam is ungodly expensive here but I'll try and run some numbers 👍
@@AwesomeFramers oh man I would appreciate it!!! Around my area I even have to order zip. Idk how much it even is
What is that software you are using in this video sir?
Where do you work on your projects?
Why aren't the bottom of the zip panels wrapped and rolled with tape at 4:40 ? I would like to use this on my next project
because here we don't need to protect that edge. I did research and it isn't required and there appears to be no advantage.
Can you tell me what track that is for the makita saw? no clamp on it?
www.makitatools.com/products/details/194367-7
No need for a clamp, it has friction tape on the underside. I was skeptical at first but it works really well
@@AwesomeFramers Thank you! I have been looking at track saws, i am going to look into that
My engneer would not let me use this as shear wall in the washington state area how do you deal with need for shear walls in this system
How do you address that the Zip R panel will be proud of the bottom plate? For example Zip R-6 will be one inch proud of the bottom plate. How do you address that 1" exposed polyiso at the bottom?
It doesn't need to be addressed, but as I showed in the video, you can tape it.
Thanks for reply. Other videos have promoted adding a strip of PT lumber covering the exposed foam at the bottom as bugs/rodents maybe able to burrow in if the barrier is just tape. Then once the lumber strip is added use tape such as Siga fentrim to cover the entire junction including the zip, lumber, and concrete basement for airtight seal. @@AwesomeFramers
@@tamil1001 Yep, this was over a crawlspace. The house we are currently working , we'll use Fentrim. I'm working on an updated video to this one as we speak. Regarding bugs/rodents, this is not a problem in our area. I'm not sure its actually a problem in other areas.
Nice presentation however that inside corner you showed had a gap with no filler not sure why?
If you watch the Lakeshore Playslist you'll see that the kitchen wall was framed balloon style and had the Zip R6 on it. The butting wall in the video is a garage wall with regular 7/16" Zip. Since that wall was framed first, we leave a gap to make it easy to tie the walls together after lifting. The gap isn't relevant to the envelope because the kitchen wall has continuous R6.
Does that help? Here is what I'm talking about czcams.com/video/5eOvpKuphmM/video.html
What software is that? Ive been trying BC Framer but its not very intuitive. Even after watching the tutorial videos.
What is the cost of the four by eight sheets. That's really all I care. However, it's a very important video..
Is it worth it to miter outside corners
Any reason why you don't use Gutex Wood Fiber insulation?
I haven't researched it to be honest. I just looked it up and I don't see a compelling reason to add more labor $$ in our mild climate to already record housing prices.
@@AwesomeFramers
Apparently it's a much better product. Possibly will be the most used in the future, who knows. But yeah, it's not cheaper.
Advantages, disadvantages - 4:10-7:50
"Gutex Wood Fiber | The FUTURE of insulation?" (on Belinda Carr channel)
@@MaximC 👍👍
If you put those sheathing panels on, and then insulate and vapour barrier the inside, can’t moisture get trapped between the two?
I'm not a building science expert so the short answer is that I don't know. For each climate, an assembly needs to be thoughtfully designed. I'm not qualified to talk about the science.
@@AwesomeFramers Thanks for the response. I have googled this question quite often, but can’t find an answer. I was planning on removing my siding and adding a layer of insulation, which unfortunately tends to act as a vapour barrier. But being in a northern climate, vapour barriers go on the warm side only, Vermont inside, Texas outside, a wall has to breathe.
@@huejanus5505 Actually the "wall has to breathe" is a misnomer. A wall needs to dry Stay tuned, Christine from www.buildingsciencefightclub.com/bundles/building-science-for-architects discusses this during the International Builders Show in a few weeks.
@@huejanus5505 If you find the answer please send me a message, very concerned about the same issue
I was told in December by two lumber yards that Huber has no date when they will start making again and I couldn’t even get a price for it
Interesting
That is interesting. I have about 150 sheets of Zip R6 due to arrive any day now. (Ordered in December)
Tim is starting to show his experience in education 😅 4:49,7:00
Do you ever use screws to attach the panels?
The inside corner at 2:56 has a 7/16 sections of sheathing touching the stud, Why not trim that back and have foam to foam in there?
Not sure how stable wall become , there is foam betwin studs and plywood / osb so share stranght depends only on nail
That’s awesome 😎👍👊🏻🙏🇺🇸
I prefer the ICF wall assembly. It's superior on many levels.
For sure. It's also insanely cost prohibitive here. There are a lot of negatives to it if we are being objective, but I've always wanted to use them
@@AwesomeFramers I just ran across your channel. It looks like your putting out some good content. We are starting and ICF high performance home and shop build soon in SC. We decided ICFs because even though it's a little more pricey. Once we factor in the additional strength, thermal bridge, water and vapor properties it is coming in comparable to lumber. Nonetheless Cutting-edge homes and up to Kode both have good ICF channels if you're interested. Keep up the good work 💪
Quick question, what is your take on the makita 40v tools? Are they worth the extra cost over the 18v? Do the others on the crew like em?
I don't know yet. I actually made a few cuts with the XGT today for the first time
All the building science stuff tells you that you should have a layer of insulation on the exterior of the sheathing so that the sheathing isn't the condensing surface for any warm, moist air that escapes from your house. What are your thoughts and experience with this?
Let me say first off that I'm not an expert on this at all. My understanding is that it doesn't matter in most climates because of the thickness of the foam. In other words at R3 and up it won't condense because there is enough insulation. I know there is a lot of testing that goes into these products and consulting from the big names in the industry.
I'll ask Christine over at www.buildingsciencefightclub.com/bundles/building-science-for-architects
Oh there's so much to this. Huber has even said it's absolute best to have the insulation over the OSB, but in terms of ease of trim, cladding, etc and builder familiarity, their compromise was foam behind the OSB.
There's an old Building Science article from, I really want to say Peter Straub, that even up to Climate Zone 4, the minimum R-5 insulation can still lead to several thousand hours a year of potential sheathing condensation, unless you also used closed cell spray foam on the interior. The recommendation was a 50/50 split of interior/exterior insulation without closed cell.
For condensation, the biggest takeaway I've gotten is keep the air from your house getting through to the sheathing, and let any exterior water that hits your sheathing drain and let the sheathing seasonally dry.
But good god, the zip R is ungodly expensive per square foot anyway. Here it's still cheaper to get regular Zip, then stick up to 1.5" of foam or Rockwool over that and it's still cheaper, even accounting for the screws.
Can you send me the info on your cordless router?
www.jlconline.com/products-tools/a-pair-of-tough-cordless-routers_o