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2012 Mazdaspeed 3 No Crank No start - No Communication With The Instrument Cluster
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- čas přidán 13. 06. 2023
- This 2012 Mazdaspeed 3 is a wiring nightmare! But also, a great example of why checking the basics is so important! DIY gone wrong from top to bottom! No crank no start. No communication with instrument cluster DTCs in multiple modules. Key not recognized and theft mode has been activated.
Thanks for posting. Had same fuse blown on my 2012 Mazda 3. Got me back on the road.
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO AND YOUR TIME ,,,,,,,,,,,, YOU WENT BY THE BOOK ON THIS DIAGNOSTIC AND THAT'S ALL WELL AND GOOD , BUT FOR ME I TEND TO GET OUT OF THE BOX IT SAVES ME A LOT OF TIME ESPECIALLY WHEN DEALING WITH SOMETHING I DON'T KNOW MUCH ABOUT . THAT MIGHT SOUND STRING BUT IT WORKS FOR ME .👍👍👍
Great engineer, please help!
Recently, a client called me to fix his 2000 Toyota Avalon car that cranked but wasn't starting.
From the onset, the car experienced several mechanical, as well as, electrical issues. Some of those problems were:-
(1) Engine Oil consumption;
(2) Engine misfire;
(3) Engine rattling;
(4) Intermittent hard starting after shutdown;
(5) Hard to engage in drive, except engine is hot; etc.
Hence, he took the car to a garage inorder to rectify the excessive Engine oil consumption and other car problems highlighted above. Consequently, the car problems exacerbated after engine rebuild by the engineer!
The car owner wasn't satisfied with his repairs because it seems the engineer was deceitful. Although the car started after the rebuild, the problems still persisted. Valves weren't grinded after engine overhaul, engine still misfired at idle and when accelerating, etc.
The engineer whose garage the car is presently being parked, requested for another engine overhau/ rebuildl. After engine rebuild the car started, the oil was mixed with water; the engine was still misfiring, rattling, etc. It was obvious, that he didn't use durable parts to do his work.
Hence, the car owner moved the car to another garage for better repairs. The new garage suggested to the car owner that another engine rebuild is pertinent for optimal engine operation.
During my conversation with this engineer, whose garage the car is presently being parked, he told me that: "when the car was first brought in, he noticed a black smoke ( maybe he was mistaken for blue smoke, at exhaust tail at idle). When accelerating, there's a loss of power, engine bucking, popping,etc. After the rebuild, the car didn't start because the mechanic didn't unlock the car with the remote but proceeded directly to cranking the engine. In addition, the security relay wasn't actuated for starting to take place. Electrician did some wire cutting around that axis which he said was corrected to factory, opened with a remote before the car started.
Fortunately, after everything, the car started again. But there was still an intermittent misfire. What the car owner said was that, 'even when the second mechanic did engine rebuild, the car still misfired. Until he personally bypassed earth from the COP wire to the solenoids very close to the fuel injector often tightened with 10mm knot and depicted with blue and green colors on the picture. Car owner verified that the reasons for the misfire from both mechanics which still prevailed, was due to the solenoid valve that wasn't opening. That's why when accelerating it experienced a loss of power, similar to that experienced by a faulty fuel pump.
After gear oil replacement and test driven by the second mechanic , smoke started emanating from the engine bay. Precisely, from the fan relay that the car owner connected by himself. Within few minutes, the car shutdown by itself as if fuel is finished. As he tried to restart it, the car refused to. Infact, when the ignition switch was turned to Acc/ ignition position, battery and fuel light was not displaying in the dashboard/ instrument cluster. However, during cranking battery light glew faintly and start. But when throttled, it would shutdown. Electrician verified and replaced the alternator diode with a new one. When Ignition switch was turned to Acc/ ignition position, the battery and other lights came out brightly but when cranked to start engine wouldn't start again. Sadly, it still wouldn't start.
I tried to scan for DTC codes, but my scanner wasn't communicating. I checked all fuses, power and ground at obd port, those checked ok. but my scanner isn't compatible to read CAN network. there are only 4 wires intact for the obd2 port.
Furthermore, I added fuel through the intake to the engine, no change at all. I checked for spark and injector pulse. These things weren't present. But there was power to injector with just the key at ignition or ACC and COP had 1 ground and 1 power as usual.
Electrician from that garage, who also worked on the car said that he sniffed burning smell from the ECU, however personally I didn't when I went to start the car. I don't know how certain that was. Hence, I pulled out the ECU to a laptop board engineer to test the components inside. He said: "everything looks ok and test fine, however the IC he doesn't have the right tools to proceed with the test. With the ECU removed battery connected, Engine light would come ON. with ECU connected check light still comes ON.
Before I left, I checked the MAF sensor 5 wires and noticed that 3 wires were earth instead of 2 and 1 power; no ignition current/ power was available for the remaining 2 wires.
Please, what should I do to start the car?
I'm stuck on mine I can't clear a p0118 code. I've tried changing the temp sensor 3 times, went through all the wiring/grounds. The only thing I can think is some wrong with the PCM?
Have you tried disconnecting the battery & retest the Resistance on the Can Bus?
Sorry I wrote that before watching the whole video. Great video thankyou.
THIS was a good tip for me. Makes sense. It's recommended to disconnect the battery BEFORE changing out components, so it only makes sense to chk out the CANBUS with ALL the power discharged. The capacitors store energy. Thanks.
Was a really nice, and rare vehicle, it's a shame it's been butchered? If it's an aftermarket alarm, I'd either run, or tell them it's going to be more expensive than normal to trace out that B.S?
Everything on this car is aftermarket 😂! He had authorized more work. So there will be a part 2. I’m going to install the backup camera and clean up the wiring. So that will be interesting to see what we find when I dig deeper 🙈
Nice intro 😎.what kinda of engine is in that vehicle? SkyActiv?
I believe the DISI 2.3 turbo is a little bit different than the SkyActiv technology. I don’t know a whole lot about these engines. I don’t get a lot of them. I think SkyActive technology came out a little bit later on.
And thanks! That intro is a work in progress, but good recommendation! I think my content needed that touch. The whole channel is a work in progress. Much appreciated, bro!
It does use the direct injection spark ignition. I’ll have to do some more research though on that. Like I said, I believe they are a little bit different. Don’t know for sure.
@@BigDogDiagnostics Yup GDI is in most vehicles now due to emission control. Started to get into them more. Especially on the mechanical pump side and how to test the fuel pump on the low side. Joe has a tester that I have to get my hands on but for now, the scope with an amp clamp works
@@DJ-tn7vj are you referring to the 3 phase pump tester? I have one from Joe and it’s pretty sweet. Solid tool he makes for sure!
I had a similar it was my crank position sensor
That caused no crank no start?
I hate to say it, but I'd just cut all that crap out of the system, try and put it back to stock, at least to be able to diagnose it? All that aftermarket junk, will ruin a vehicle, especially when the person doing the wiring, has no clue what they are doing, or all the damage that can occur by messing it up? Good luck, sir.
Thanks! I can sure use some luck on this one! I’ve made the customer aware this car is a death trap. I’m glad he understands and is willing to get it 100%
What model Autel are you using? Thnx in advance.
It’s a Autel 906BT. Great tool!
@@BigDogDiagnostics That was FAST. Thanks. Will it let me program the BCM on a 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.7. This Jeep is killing me. Everything works, but brake lights and security light stay on. Panic button works, blinkers flash when I push unlock, but refuses to start. Verified that it cranks by jumping the starter relay. Anyway, Thnx.
@@im2yys4u81 I have a video of a very similar situation, that I made on an 08 jeep liberty I think it was. There’s a lot of techniques in that video that may be of help to you. If I were you I would be looking close at the TIPM. Almost every time I’ve had issues like that in a Jeep it was the TIPM.
@@BigDogDiagnostics I watched it. Just ordered an Autel. My breakout box gets here tomorrow. I measured 6 & 14 at the DLC with my Fluke and got 60.1 Ohms, +- .3. My TIPM is a rebuild from MAKS. The new TIPM corrected a lot of issues. I noticed that even with my brake light switch removed, the brake lights come on as soon as I plug the fuse in, so I'm beginning to suspect that when they smoked the old TIPM they damaged the BCM. I'll know more when my Autel gets here. Thnx for the quick response. I'll be watching that Liberty video again. You've got great troubleshooting techniques.
@@im2yys4u81 you’ll be very happy with it, like I said it’s a great tool. I have a snap on scanner as well. But I have barely used it since I got the Autel. I like much better! Definitely let me know what you find. I’m glad I was able to help you! Thanks for watching bro, It’s much appreciated!
What fuse was blown?
Honestly I can’t remember..It was a while ago. I believe it was the brake lamp circuit.
What a butchered wiring job! Charge appropriately.