What You Need To Know About Spark Plugs
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- čas přidán 29. 03. 2016
- What is a Spark plug? How to pick the right spark plug for your engine, What is spark plug gap and how to gap a spark plug What is spark plug heat range? what is the best spark plug? Spark plugs are on of those automotive terms that almost everyone has heard of. But do you REALLY know the ins and outs of what a spark plug is, how it works? Today we cover everything you need to know about spark plugs!
For full blog post visit ~ humblemechanic.com/?p=6135
Join me today as we discuss:
~What are the parts of a spark plug?
~What does a spark plug do?
~What happens after a spark plug "sparks"
~How to determine spark plug size
~What is the reach of a spark plug?
~Determining heat range of a spark plug
~What happens when a Spark plug is too hot or cold
~Spark plug gap tools
~How to gap a spark plug
~Removing coils and plugs
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Hey Charles,
Good vid for folks wondering a bit about their plugs. I guess I have 2 questions. First would be you showed the plug in the beginning that had fouling on the last 1/4" of threads or so and you mentioned that this threaded portion extended down in the combustion chamber? I have to admit, in my career as a mechanic I have removed hundreds of heads on many different makes and models but can't say I have ever seen the threads of a plug extend beyond the head exposing threads to the combustion chamber. I have only seen them come flush or slightly recessed... Is that a VW thing? Seems to me that would make it almost impossible to remove or very very hard to say the least. Similar to the problem the 3v Fords that you mentioned. IMO What I think you are seeming is perhaps were the combustion gas migrates up into the threads over time. Remember the threads have to contact the head fully because that is what carries away the heat from plug tip (making the heat range accurate).
For my second question you mentioned that an extended gap will take more voltage from the coil to jump the gap. I have to admit I have done some pretty extensive testing using a capacitive pick up on a scope looking at secondary waveforms and changing the gap on a plug from .010" to .090" and I must say I have never seen a change (or very little) at all in coil output or burn time that is discernible at all. As a matter of fact the only time I have seen any sort of an anomaly from a spark plug gap is when that gap "bridges" basically causing a direct short to ground, or a severe open in a secondary circuit causing an unintended gap out side the combustion chamber but other than that can't say I have seen gap alone affect coil output on a modern day high output ignition. So I guess my question with all that being said is have you seen measurable voltage differences on coil outputs from a worn or over gapped plug? If so what were the actual differences and examples you saw? very curious about that :)
--Eric O. ( sorry for the long question :/ )
Eric, stop farting around and get to work, lol. Goodmorning.
Michael Herbert Hey come on I need my YT fix too!
Hey Eric O. There has to be a correlation between voltage and how big of a gap the arc can jump. Think of arc welding and think about things like high voltage power lines. The higher the voltage the wider the wires have to be spaced. In a spark plug I think the distances are probably so small of a change that the change in voltage is tiny, so tiny you may not be able to accurately measure it with the equipment you are using.
I also consider the ridges on the ceramic of the plug. Those ridges are there to increase surface area to help prevent arc from going down the insulator to the base, so the voltage must be able to jump a gap significantly longer than the distances between the electrodes. My guess is the difference, though minute, probably adds up over billions of cycles to quite a bit of extra wear and tear on the coils, and the quality of the spark would suffer. Again, all tiny differences but when you consider how many time a spark plug spark in 100,000 miles it becomes more significant.
First question: The plug threads are not protruding into or exposed to the combustion chamber. When the head gets hot the hot end of the threads get a bit bigger, that allows some carbon up the first few threads. Get a lot in there over age and it can feel like the plug was hanging out in the chamber and got carboned up but not so. Worth remembering that threads and in a head get smaller at the cold end and larger at the hot end when the head is hot Which is why you always chamfer the top of thread on an exhaust manifold face to stop the threads near the surface shrinking and shearing off the studs like a bolt cutter at the face leaving the remaining broken stud left in there loose enough sometimes to unscrew when it is cold.
So where is a plug likely to seize and break off, top of the thread.
For taper seat plug, they tighten up at the cold taper end when the engine is hot making them tighter at the taper when the engine is running, so don't take taper seat plugs out hot, flat washer seal plugs not sensitive to it. And if you fit taper seat plugs hot when they cool down they may be a bit looser than spec so replace them when cold or if you remove them hot let if cool down before fitting them.
Second question: There will only be a small discrepancy in spark voltage, spark time and pre spark voltage observed with a difference in spark plug gap, but that is academic as we are not merely looking for an absolute voltage value at any point or just a wide gap, we are looking for worn and thus defective spark plugs.
What you need to be looking for is a scope pattern that displays a defective plug, it may have a narrow gap and be defective in other ways namely parasitic insulation leakage from contamination.
And we know that such a plug will break down at idle causing an erratic idle misfire.
You can simulate that by using a can of fuel injection pressure cleaner after fitting a new set of plugs and ruining the new plugs causing an erratic idle misfire, and observe the engine ran better before you used the cleaner.
And you can see this in the scope like a defective plug not by absolute voltages but by lack of a stable spark voltage or time as it misfires and an ugly spark line too when it does fire.
Keep in mind long life plugs are not a construct of much better plugs it is due to combustion chamber design and fuel and ignition control that allows the plug to last a lot longer before they are contaminated..
We had platinum and palladium plugs in the 1980;s too but you could not leave them in an engine for 60,000kms because they got contaminated.
Precious metal helps reduce spark erosion to stop the gaps getting too wide but likely the plugs will be contaminated to the point they are failing at any stage (rough idle) before the gap gets so wide the owner notices it.
Because the coil has plenty of reserve current wide gaps just mean more load on the rest of the ignition system that can cause breakdowns upstream of the plugs if left long enough.
High energy ignition allowed car owners to burn their plug gaps to the stumps before the coil or module or leads or all 3 fried.
Ive had cars come in to be serviced with plugs burnt to the nose cone, rough idle but no regular misfire at revs when warm, cooked every other part of the ignition system though.
All scorched from having to generate enough current to leap the great gaps of the long worn out plugs.
Leads and coil fried and tracking where the small air gaps in the insulation manufacture finally ionizes and creates a leak path that turns into a crusty crater.
Put it on the scope and the voltages are a bit high but not liked you'd pick it that easily, but what you will see is an erratic pattern being erratic misfires not limited to one cylinder but may be worse on some than others.
So you replace the plugs and then see how much it has cleaned up and if not then its a fuel related misfire or upstream ignition misfire and if the plugs were bad enough for long enough that is not unusual to see something else cooked.
There is no point inspecting plugs because these days unlike old engines and leaded fuel engines more so you wont see the contamination of them.
Which the EFI pressure cleaner will demonstrate, that you can cause a brand new set of plugs to start erratically misfiring at idle right after using the cleaner before you even get out on a test drive and you can pull the plugs out and look them up and down all you like but you wont spot the problem with them, the cleaner is now impregnated in to the nose cone insulators and the only place the new ruined plugs can go is in the bin.
A mechanic that actually knows his stuff & teaches it, good stuff mate.
Thank you
@@HumbleMechanic POG
I have all three types of spark plug gapers. I own two air cooled bugs, a cabbie, and an 03 Jetta TDI, love your videos. The Jetta has been a pretty good car so far, over 150k. I replaced the timing belt with parts and tools from Blauparts.
Your knowledge is amazing. I like how you put in what ifs and worst case scenarios. Great vid.
Thank you
Torque? Tighten till it breaks then back it off a half a turn...
;)
Sorry, I couldn't resist. It was an old joke we passed around when I worked at my buddy's machine shop years ago...
+Michael Gibbons hahaha.
be sure to snap the stud off in the aluminum block at the proper torque, proceed to next step, snap off hardened steel broken bolt extractor in the hole half in the block and half in the broken stud, congradulations you now have a very hard piece of metal in the same spot your going to have a coolant leak when its back together, its better to just drill it all the way out and break a lag bolt off in the hole instead
That was mad !
wow - this video is utterly fantastic! thanks for taking the time to make and post this
I appreciate the information Charles. Your video was well organized and easy to follow along.
Thanks again! Answered more questions than I was asking! I refer you to all my friends with a vw!! Great work always!
Engineering explained brought me here, glad I found this channel!
Thank you for this video. I've changed many spark plugs but it's always good to have a refresher video to keep doing it right. Oh, and I agree whole heartedly about using a torque wrench. It only takes one stripped out spark plug hole ($$$$) to make anyone a believer in torque wrenches.
This guy really knows his stuff. Very informative video; great visuals. Thanks.
HumbleMechanic your such a cool guy and i love your videos, i wish i could find someone like you in Jamaica to rebuild my engine. most people here in Jamaica aren't thorough enough
Very informative and very well spoken. Love the visuals I was able to follow along by grabbing the tools you showed in the video
i like the technical deep dives. i rarely have time to watch any videos anymore, but i had to watch this one.
+LastHumansGarage I hear ya about that man!!
+LastHumansGarage Looking forward to seeing that new shift knob and timing chain rattle fix!
+HumbleMechanic great vids man, hey I've switched to NGK Iridium in my 95 honda accord from the standard copper one that they say to use on the emissions sticker under the hood. Is it bad that I switched? will the car run different because I'm not using the exact plugs stated to use by the manufacturer?
+fake priesthood apparently VWAG disagrees with you
Excellent video. Will go into my favorites so that I can use the information later.
One of the best channels for mechanics and diyselfers.
Thanks for being so detailed in your videos.
I was wondering if you had a video on testing spark plugs and ignition coils resistance to find a new coil or plug that is defective.
Your comment about the torque wrench just gave me an insight.
Due to a cylinder #5 misfire on a Nissan Maxima 2005, I replaced all the spark plugs after ensuring that a compression was not the culprit. However, i did not replace the coils.
Since this engine is not the easiest to replace spark plugs on and not wanting to remove the intake in case Coil #5 was the problem, I moved it to #6 position. Engine was smooth at first during the test drive but after about 60 miles of driving, misfire again. Very surprisingly, it was not a p0305 but a p0304 instead. Hum, now im wondering if I did not torque it too much or too less on Cyl#4.
Cars problems can seem mystical sometimes.
Since all the plugs installed are brand new oem, I want to check the coil #4 resistance for defect. If good then it is more likely a torque issue on plug installed in Cylinder #4.
Any input Humble Mechanic?
Excellent presentation,and professionally done, I'm a NGK freak as I found nothing last as long in my experiences over the past 20+ years, Your advice on Torquing spec's is so very important, most people just don't get that.
I have ngk iridium
The fancy metal plugs like Platinum and Iridium also have a caveat
1. They're not really pure platinum or iridium. A singe plug would cost $100. They do however contain very trace amounts in the alloy used to help with the heat of forced induction and high compression.
2. They won't make your engine run better or add power. if anything they are POOR conductors and can create problems.
3. True rare metal plugs come with multiple leads. This give the spark more options to choose the least resistance (because they're poor conductors), and slightly lengthens plug life as leads wear away. They still only throw one spark.
4. It's best to stick with EXACTLY what your engine came with. The engineers that designed it are much smarter than you (usually). Plugs have plenty of other quirks such as internal resistance, surface resistance, resistance at operating temperature, resistive resistance, etc. When the manufacture factory tuned your engine's ECM and other variables, they did it with the factory model plugs installed. It is however a good idea to double check the assembly line's work. Plenty of cars roll off the line with random spark gaps, +/- 0.01 sometimes, slightly different resistance, etc. With anything electronic or mechanical, it's best to "marry" them. Have all the identical parts spec the same, and always use them together.
I can remember when the Type IV engine started appearing in the VW Type II Bus. The type IV engine used the longer plug and it was not at all uncommon to find a spark plug for a Bug (shorter) in the Bus engine. It was also common to find a couple of plugs rolling around under the sheet metal on the Bus engine (magnetic spark plug socket made your life easier here).
It used to be very common to have an "engine analyzer" in the shop that had an oscilloscope in it so you could look a secondary ignition wave forms, actually this was a very good diagnostic tool. Another good tool from "back in the day' was a simple two gas analyzer (HC and CO). These two gas analyzers really allowed you to put the finishing touches on your tune ups and aided in diagnosing a driveability concern. You had to remember to get you gas sample upstream from any device like a cat converter and remember to disable an air injection reaction pump as your gas readings will be distorted by these devices.
I had a problem 1995 (I believe it was a 1995) 6 series V-12 BMW where these two tools would have been so very useful (car was an HC failure and we were no longer set up to work on this failure efficiently..
Love that reply, "took a shit". I gotta remember that. Thanks!
this was a great explanation of spark plug usage thanks for sharing
I first saw you on Engineering Explained........you have a great channel and I watched like 20 of you videos....you know what you doing and biggest Shock......you care. well done
+Al Sipes thank you so much! I appreciate it. Love my dude Jason!
Very detailed video with lots of good info! I don't agree with the part about the thread discoloration through. Ive never seen threads protrude into a CC. Love the channel though! I just added you to the Featured section on my YT channel. Good stuff! Thanks!
I don't even own a Volkswagen or Audi, but I still love all your videos! Thanks for posting them. I also love the collabs with Engineering Explained.
Thanks!!! I love me some EE too
I've never used a torque wrench on the plugs in my old 350 Chevy truck engine and don't believe I've ever seen any torque specs on them either. I've always tightened them the way I do my oil filter. That's finger tight plus about half a turn. I believe I learned that system on my Model A Ford.
Torque spec for a 350 chevy = 25 ft lbs
Very informative video. Subscribed.
Nice video HumbleMechanic! :D
Great 👍🏼 just very helpful
Thanks for the video 😃
Awesome video ! Very educational.
The tork wrench is old needs, i took a lot of parts off my cars and never used one, you just know when to stop, if not your learn when you have to remove it, lol. but some that work on vehicles should use that tool and be safe and not sorry, lol, grate video, thats man.
just did my 86 runner w/o a torque wrench. Worked perfectly
you are very thorough, and concise
I love the NGK iridium spark plugs for my Civic.
I just noticed he has a Chris Fix sticker ayy lmaooo
Nice catch. ::)
Thank you great video new subscriber from Sydney Australia
Thank you - very informative, for me as a "virgin" to engine/motor stuff. Did not talk "down" to the viewer, was obviously, very informative. Also, not a "boring", slow-moving presentation.
GREAT, always worth spending my time watching these vids. It's what makes the web such a great tool to simplify life. Thank You for posting and making !!!!!
+Patrick O'Connor thanks so much. :)
this is very helpful and very interesting.
Great video, thanks
The most helpful video on spark plugs so many details thanks.
That you
I used the OEM Bosch dual fire platinum plugs in my 1999 B5 V6 for a long time and I would have infrequent issues with hesitation or misfires under load. At the advice of my grandfather, who had been a mechanic for quite a number of years, I switched to NGK single fire copper plugs and haven't had a problem since. This may or not be correct, but my grandfather was under the impression that multi-fire spark plugs were more prone to short out and give a bad spark.
My dodge 4.7 had champion plugs when I bought it. I put ngk plugs in it and it had a whole new tone. Plugs do make a difference.
Decided to learn mechanics, at least basic, then, maybe the more complicated things. I have to say this video was very informative and easy to understand.
Thank you.
Fantastic video. Thank you.
Great video! Can you do one on how to read condition of used sparkplugs to help diagnosis? That would be awesome!
Hey Charles, was wondering if you could quickly/briefly describe the different appearances plugs can get under different engine conditions? For instance, what would a plug look like that was in an engine that was running lean versus one that's running rich? Thanks as always and great video!
If it's running rich the plug will be black
Great in depth video thank you
Awesome, thanks. This should save me a lot of time and a bit of money too.
100000 k plugs are amazing in my Nissan. Changed at 120000 k and was still running good.
i thought i saw johny "big rig" hendrix lols 😁
great vid, quiet helpful as im replacing spark plugs on my duc.
My guy love the channel such good content!! Your making me want to put a VR6 into my 240z 😁
I'm from London VAG cars are reallly decent from the factory with rust protection, any tips for what to use on a classic car, your experience would be much appreciated.
I'm torn between Paint and cosmoline/ fluid film ontop, or raptor liner the underside (I'm worried about trapping moisture underneath) much love from the UK!!
When talking about the coil on/near plug set ups, my 03 Galant has waste spark using both coil on and coil near. Cylinders 2 and 4 have coil on, Cyl 1and 3 are coil near.
Awesome vids !
On the matter of spark plug sockets, Gear Wrench and I'm sure others as well make magnetic ones as well which is what I use! They are lovely.
Love this dudes videos
with the medalion, when you insert and slide the plug, the ending point of measure on the sparkplug is forward side or reverse side tip, hope that makes sense...
You didn't mention much about the different tip materials, but it was a good introduction to spark plugs. Also woukd be good to teach people how to look for tracks and cracks.
Great info. Thanks
This is very informative! Thank you! I was wondering about the difference between spark plugs based on the manufacturer; for instance I bought some Spark plugs for my 98 Corolla, but just got an 05 Hyundai Tuscon- I barely use the Corolla anymore and was wondering how to tell if I can use the new Corolla spark plugs for the Tuscon? I was wondering what factors to look out for besides the gap etc
those chevy jerks shipped my truck with a stripped plug hole in the cylinder! Spark plug was halfway in for 140,000 miles, and unless I decide to fix it...the new one will be in there halfway in. And they just had to strip the one hardest to reach.
I only use NGKBKR7E coppers on both my 1.8t, and vr6 V2... copper is by far the best energy transfer of all metals. With about 200 miles put in both in a year...... coppers don't wear out for a long time.
Better response, better idle.
I wish you would've talked more about the futures of the spark plugs. The different tips, multiple grounds, why they're used and what difference it makes
Can't thank you enough. Appreciate it!
I favor Polestar plugs. They come in a cardboard sleeve if I remember correctly but, I never trust the gap to be correct out of the box. And I've always adjusted them to gap spec from automotive manufacture.
Another great video!
Thanks for the cool video!
Aloha HM, Mahalo for this awa the many excellent how-to videos you do. Just gonna say how much appreciated they are; you bring a rare mix of honest, homespun delivery of some quite technical info to, well I'll just say that the audience here in wild-west YT can be so fine sometimes 'n other times not so much, eh? So with the moving parts sufficiently lubed, may I ask a question not covered in your otherwise comprehensive overview of the spark plug...the device that puts the bang in the suck, squeeze, bang, blow which we all so fervently seek of our internal combustion buddies...and btw, I'm gonna do the question ahead of you calling on me w/ my hand raised...recently I've seen 2 of 4 plugs-09 GTI-with oil seeping from the base of the porcelain insulator, presumably up through the metal shell, since there's no oil on the boot, wire nor in the sp well...this isn't dirt or grime, mind you; it is a 1/16" band of brown engine oil @ the top of the hexagonal shell (see, been payn' attention, takin' notes!) & base of the corrugated insulator. any help from anywhere 'id be appreciated. Mahalo for the help in the past, the future and especially the present. Aloha.
very informative thank u
thanks for that education on spark plugs. question; is there an easy way to check if good/bad "transfer case motor or actuator" on a jeep renegade 2015? I have an intermittent "service 4wd system" dash light = on one day then gone. Inspected the connector plug, is clean and dry. I take the "intermittent" as a warning that something is not happy....
+1 on the torque wrench
And the hot and cold rating it relative to how much ceramic insulator is in the nose of the plug. I believe the closer the base of the ceramic, the less heat transfer into the coolant, making it a hotter plug.
And most every plug comes pre gapped from factory.
Nice info!
Been tempted to go with Silver. I wish my plugs were easier to get to.
Good show
How do you know when to change the splugs ?Can you mix Autolite and motor craft in a V8 engine?What is the best gap for a splug if you regap it?In a 4.6 L Ford truck.
When i have to change the spark plug for a passat b6 2009 1.8TSi and after how many KM exactly you recommend????
If your car has a single earth strap, pretty much any name brand, ie NGK, Bosch, Champion, Denso, etc plug with the correct temp, same reach, etc will usually be fine.
Copper plugs don't usually perform any worse, they just need to be replaced more frequently.
From what I've seen & how cheap copper plugs are, regardless of brand, you're likely better off running a good brand copper, than a dodgy brand platinum or iridium.
Also, if your car is modified, there is a good chance you will need a cooler plug and possibly less gap, which you can't usually get with an OEM plug.
I have subaru that was throwing some codes. So I took it to O'riellys to get the obd 2 to tell me the codes. Turns out it was high idle and cylinder 3 miss fire. Just recently changed spark plugs and wires, I thought I did something wrong. When I got home (20miles) I let me engine cool off for a bit. Than I started to take the wire off the plug and the boot started coming off and needles to say i took those wires back and upgraded the wires to something better. No longer have a check engine light and it sounds great.
Now that I know all about Spark ⚡️Plugs, I have some spark plug questions.
1. What’s the low down with buying plugs from country or manufacture of origin e.g. Motor Craft for a Ford, A/C Delco for a Chevy, NGK for Japanese, etc.?
2. Why would a Iridium Plug be preferable to a Copper Plug? Wouldn’t one conductor be the best?
you are awesome dude...very clear info....thanks
+Vin thank you :)
Umm I was really looking forward to hear the differences between copper - platinum and iridium spark plugs. and also about single tip and double tip spark plugs
Just use OEM style spark plugs. Don't bother using platinum or iridium if your car doesn't need it. It'll do nothing more at best. It might even get you lower gas mileage. It did on my older car. I sticked with copper because that's what the engine was designed to work with.
iridium last 2-3x longer than copper so your better off just using one of those just for convenience
I think iridium is better for modified cars making a bit more power as the plugs will have reduced life anyway. Modified cars also benefit from a shorter reach and closer gap. I've had a recommended plug change from as high as 30,000 (OEM is 60,000) to as low as 15,000 miles, but that is referenced to high boost turbocharged cars.
SI0AX i use to think that as well. for modified cars go with copper or silver. silver works great but are expensive and have the shortest life. copper is a bit more affordable but again doesnt last as long. figure 20k on silver and 30k on copper. but they will conduct electricity the best.
platinum and iridium are really more for everyday cars. they can last for years. they are however poor conductors of electricity. at 25psi and 6000rpm the last thing you want is a poor conductor.
First off, spark plugs dont make any power. They just provide a space for a spark to jump. It does nothing else. It does need the proper heat range so it wont get fouled at idle. And performance cars use a wider gap to get more of the air fuel mixture between the gap to make it easier to fire off the mixture. Plus performance cars have higher powered ignition systems in order for it to jump a wider gap. The material the plug is made for make no difference in power or performance either. Just how much they cost. And duel, triple, etc. etc. ground plugs wont make any difference in power or performance either. Electricity folows the least path of resistance and it will only jump to one ground and it's done.
I'm digging your videos man, it's not even new info to me and it's still interesting to hear things explained by another tech. Ps: if you really want to screw with your friends take a pencil and draw a line along the insulation of a spark plug, 9 times out of 10 they will go through everything before looking at the plugs and wiping off the line lol
When I was attending automotive trade school (I'll leave the name out, since they were shut down by the government...) I distinctly remember my High Performance Powertrain instructor telling me a multi ground strap plug can block flame front propagation. He ran a $3-5 Champion plug in his 621 cubic inch HEMI race engine. And recommended OEM plugs for stock cars, and single ground platinums for mildly built engines. Taking consideration of heat range differences for compression ratio changes or boost/nitrous applications. We also went in depth about indexing spark plugs. Place the ground strap on the opposite side of the intake valve for naturally aspirated engines. And place the ground strap towards the intake valve on high boost applications, to prevent the boost from blowing the spark out like a candle. What're your thoughts Humble? I've always wondered why some German cars have multi ground plugs from the factory.
My dad once had a Champion plug fall apart in a bike engine he once had, completely killed it. Switched to NGK and never looked back
To seize or not to seize, that is the question.
What is the recommended practice of using anti-seize on spark plugs threads? More over, when should/can you use anti-seize on threads (outside of the obvious wheel nuts)?
Good job. Thanks
Another good video sir, thank you. I am a bit surprised there is no discussion about the use of anti-seize on spark plug threads, and the different types of anti-seize compounds (copper, aluminum, other?)
That is a great topic. I never put it on any plugs I have installed. VW doesn't mention in the repair manual. And yes using the proper kind can be important.
I am a mom and a grandmama that drives a vw passat - what kind of plugs would you reccommend me using. i have always used the dealership plugs because I think you get what you pay for - so do you think I should pay the higher price or what - thanks for the video I enjoyed it - I love my vw, it has 300,000 miles!!!
Like Your Videos...Very Informative...Greetings from India.
Very interesting video! I will watch others video from your channel :)
I torque my spark plugs using the German method. Gooden tight.
Guten tag to you too!
I'm pretty paranoid about putting in spark plugs, I found a good trick is to use a radiator hose to start the thread to keep it from skipping and then to use the torque wrench (old school one that doesn't ratchet, though). Never had an issue.
Charles, this has nothing to do with the prior topic of cars, however its not going to do any harm to my KTM Two-Stroke Dirtbike if I just continue using a spark-plug combination spanner and just threading in until i can't do anymore by hand. Then hold the combination-spanner about half way and just "snug it"? Obviously not to the right end and excessive force as that could strip the thread in the cylinder-head.
What spark plugs work with the Toyota 20 valve really good 👌.
And what is the right speak plugs for the Toyota 20 valve. thanks again keep good.
this program is very important to us motor mechanics
nice humble mechanic.
I took mine out, threw them in the trash and my car is running a lot better without spark plugs.
Running down a steep hill?
Made me laugh sooo hard.
Some time thats what it take.
I was like wait what 😂😂
I'm running a spark plug meant for a 30cc 4 stroke on my 66cc 2 stroke bycicle and it runs good but down the road will it break something
Matco makes a magnetic spark plug socket. It's the best. 5 piece swiveling set with built in extensions for around $150
Do you use anti-seize compound on spark plug threads?
I always prefer OEM
I don't like to use autolite plugs for a gm or Ac delco for a Ford and so on. with the old air cooled VW's I have seen champion plugs in them and every air cooled VW's engine I have rebuilt that had champion plugs had broken heads from the plugs. it pays to stick with the correct plugs on any vehicle.
Very interesting explanation ... so I have a 1982 Fiat Ritmo (sold as the Fiat Strada from 79 to 82 in NA) what spark plugs should be used?
awesome video, learned a lot. how do you make sure you don't cross thread when installing? go counterclock first to let it seat in ?
just start the thread by hand to prevent cross threading