Thank you very, very much for posting this video. SO very helpful as my truck is a 2015 SRW F350. Saw this was the same year and thanked the Lord. The last trip to the dealership cost $1100 for something to do with the DEF tank. It was a $250 part and $800 in labor... makes me cringe every time I think about it. I have done many water pumps on Chevy gassers and this Ford was radically different and so much more challenging. Those bottom right bolts were a huge pain. I was so frustrated. My kid asked me “ why don’t you just pay to have it done.” Not sure what the dealership would charge, but I’m pretty sure I saved at least $1000 doing it myself. I’m a decent shade tree mechanic and it took me close to 10 hours... including viewing this CZcams video multiple times. This video answered any question I had. Thanks again... you were a life(and money) saver!!
I don't know how to thank you enough for this video. It seems to be the only 6.7 main water pump video of any detail on CZcams. On my '11 F350 I bought 2 months ago with 75k miles on it. No noises when I bought it but very quickly I was getting a grinding noise from a pulley. Catastrophic failure occurred yesterday at 82k miles and the bearing broke down causing a large leak from the center of the pump. Made it to safety without getting the engine hotter than normal. I really didn't have the money for a dealer to do the job so I needed to try to do it myself. Today it took me and a buddy 8 hours to do the job. We are decent mechanics but not familiar with diesel or this truck. Had quite the issue with some of those lower right bolts on the pump. We couldn't have done it without this as a guide, it was challenging enough with it. It's all together and running leak free. Thank you so much for doing this and I wish you the best.
great video. My lower hose was leaking and being a aviation mechanic I was going to change it however there were circumstances where I had to go out of town and due to time I took it to a dealership and they were going to charge me 1700+ to change it. They said the hose was leaking not the water pump . said the hose was over 700. I lost my mind and changed it myself for what they charged me to tell me what I told them was wrong in the first place.
Really enjoyed the video. You seem to be quite professional and courteous towards your customers. I wish there were mechanics like you in central Alabama.
Thus far u are not only a pro when it comes to work on this diesel powerstrokes but also u manage to take good videos to educate all powerstroke owners out there. Plz let me know name of that wrench u used to remove rad fan and any other tools involve on this job. Thank you and keep up with the good job.
Just in time. I have the exact same problem on my 16 F350 Dooley. 38K miles, mild leak, add a quart or so every couple weeks, pressure tests ok - over several hours. Neighbor (retired truck shop owner) and I were going to tear into it next few days; however, it appears a special tool is needed for removal of the fan. I believe I'll let someone else work on it. Thank you.. Presentation, detail was great. This is NOT an engine easy to see anything.
Thanks for giving us a peak into the life of a diesel mechanic. Currently, in the market for a lightly used F250, so it's nice to understand some common issues/concerns with these trucks.
Extremely good video, I know you must have taken great pains to get the camera in position to see exactly what you were doing, let alone see what you were doing yourself, not an easy task. Super awesome video, thank you for posting!!
Awesome Brad; I have 2011 Powerstroke; had coolant coming down on oil pan so i replace the cooling line with Fords Quick connect.. Drove it today and see coolant at the bottom of bell housing. Doesn't look like its running down from either side , just dead center of bottom of bell housing? Any ideas? I thought for sure it was the cooling line; unless it was that and something else!! Thanks so much for your videos!
I'm surprised that these pumps aren't built better than they are. I know that we only hear of the bad ones, but come on Ford, it's a pump, not a nuclear reactor.
@@flmmaz Awesome! Thank you so much for the quick reply. I'm smelling a little coolant from my 2012 6.7. no loss in the tanks yet. keeping my eye on it. is there a known problem with a leak anywhere other than the water pump
@@135-j yes, it is the drain cock on the main radiator. It is very slow so I've not done anything to fix it yet. I'm waiting until it becomes a real problem. For now, I just check the fluid level. So far its ok. Thank you for asking.
Thank you so much for taking your time to post such a good and professional videos. Could you plz tell me whats the name of that special wrench u used to remove rad fan. Thank you again.
My cooling system just started leaking and I can't find where from. It looks like the upper radiator hose at the engine, but it seems to be coming out everywhere. Never a drip until the other day. When I start it it is a constant stream on to the crossmember under the engine. I pulled it 15 feet back on my driveway and it left a constant stripe of coolant. Money is tight as I changed jobs and this is my daily. Any ideas what it could be? 140k miles. Coolant been flushed and changed 3 times in it's life. I can tell there is a leak from the upper hose. Just doesn't seem big enough to be what is pouring out. Only drips a little when truck is off.
I think I am in the same boat brother. After a trip to the dealer saying it was going to cost 6k I decided to get educated. So I’m going to fix the least expensive stuff first and then go down the list. They told me it was the front cover which would require the upper oil pan to be done as well which is why it was so much. After some internet searching there are some common things it could be. 1.Turbo coolant line. 2. The water pump seems like they can leak at the bearing for the pulley. 3. The cross over tube between the heads at the top front of the motor have had gasket issues. The plan was for me to just tackle all 3 while I have everything apart. Also another common problem is the Vacume pump bolts can become loose which I will loctite while the front end is apart. The 4th problem I’ve come across is the radiator leaks at the plastic edge. Haven’t decided if I’m going to tackle that one too while the front is torn apart. The parts for all 3 that I’m going to be doing are somewhere in the 400 dollar range. The radiator would double that to ball park 900. I have most of the tools so figured why not give it a shot. Hope this helps as I’ve been freaking out and frantically researching the last few days.
I have a question. I have a 2011 F-350 6.7 and have been starting to run through the 100,000+ preventative maintenance stuff. The serp belt is fine, but still original. I am wanting to replace it and normally always do that myself. My question is this. To replace the belt do I just need to remove the upper intake from the air box and access the belt that way? Or, do I need to also remove the upper shroud? I just had the primary and secondary system serviced (probably should have done it then).
flmmaz thanks for the videos! I just had my coolant changed on my 6.7 at the dealer... I thought the new coolant would be orange or yellow in color but it's not... What color is the new coolant?
I have the 2015 f350 KR. Thinks it's the over fill twords front grille, hada leak, buddy put new one in, and added a quarter gallon of the zerex g 05. Is that fine that he mixed that bit with the ford coolant that I'd in it??
your videos are awesome. thank you so much for what you do. I have learned so much about the 6.7. I do have a question, I have 2011 with 170,000 on mine now and want to flush both coolant systems and replace with factory coolant. is that something I can do without that airlift system or is that something I need to buy? I'm wanting to just do both systems by my self one weekend.
You can fill both systems the old fashion way without the airlift tool. Even if you had the tool you still need access to compressed air to pull the vacuum, which you may not have at home or wherever you are going to service the truck.
Have you considered pulling the rads rather than pulling the fan shroud and going it from the top? With the rads removed you access all through the front.
Thanks Brad for all the great videos. I was going to ask you the part number of the coolant adapter, but I got lucky and seen it posted. I just looked on Snap on's website and I am not sure thats the correct part number. can you confirm me when you get the chance? You had posted SVT262-28A. Thanks again!
Refresh my memory on what you are looking for. If you are wanting the secondary cooling system tester (small cap) then the number you are wanting to confirm is correct.
flmmaz I was looking for the correct adapter for the coolant recovery tank. I did some more research and found what I believe is correct from Stant. I will look and see if the SVT262-28A is the one in my kit already before I make a purchase. I am hoping that the Stant works properly with my Snap On tester. I appreciate you getting back to me. Thanks again!
OK, if you need the primary cooling system adapter, I use a AST FZ 32 and it fits regular cooling system pressure testers.asttool.com/detail_page.php?from_search=y&tool_number=FZ%2032%20A&offset=0&stype=searchbox&keywords=fz These guys make excellent tools, they are what I use for the fuel and trans line disconnects.
I miss read your question way back when. The correct answer is: I leave the belt on and it holds the pulley from turning while the air hammer loosens the fan nut.
Damn good engine, tons and tons of power. It had a few little things in the past that bothered like coolant fitting leaks but they have sorted all that out by 2016. The biggest problem you would ever encounter is exhaust gas temp sensors going bad.
what coolant did u use and what kind was in the 5 gallon bucket. Also why did u add that gallon to the coolant. I have a 2013 f250 and seems to have low coolant in the reservoir but looked and looked to see what kind to add to just top off and bring back up to the cold fill line but don't know exactly what to add. I know it suppose to be orange antifreeze/coolant but what is that cv12 re-stabilizer stuff. IF you could let me know what to add i would greatly appreciate it
The bucket is a cleaned out unit that I use specifically for premixing anti-freeze. The anti-freeze for these trucks is specialty orange VC-3-B and that is what is in the bucket. It can be premixed with tap water or distilled water. Ford recommends distilled water but ultimately the customer will have the final say so on that :). I am using an air lift cooling system refill tool and it requires more anti-freeze to be available than what the truck actually holds. The 5 gallon bucket is not enough to fill the system so I have to add another gallon of "premixed" anti-freeze to the bucket as I am filling the system. If I had a bigger bucket then I wouldn't have to do that.The revitalizer is VC-12. It should be added if the corrosion inhibitor level is off or if the coolant is being drained, caught, and reused after a repair.
My coolant is level is low. So if i get a gallon of the motorcfrat orange antifreeze/coolant and fill my reservoir and then run and let cool and add more if needed i should be ok? i already tested the coolant and it passed on the test strips i just need to know what to and to fill it up when i am not replacing all the coolant.
You can actually buy this anti-freeze in a premixed gallon container or if you get a straight gallon, I would premix it with distilled water. If you have to add more than a half gallon of fluid then you will need to determine where the leak is. If you have an unchecked leak then it could lead to cavitation and or corrosion issues.
So if the stuff i need to get called orange antifreeze/coolant premixed or is it called something else? and is that all i would have to add or will i need to add the coolant (whatever one i am suppose to get) and the CV12 also.
If you decide to get premix from the dealer then the number is VC-3DIL-B. Most stores probably will not have that. Your best bet is just to get a gallon of VC-3-B (specialty orange) and mix it yourself (50/50). If you aren't repairing a leak and your dipstrip tested ok then you will not need the VC-12.
I use Snap-on part #SVT262-28A. This adapts a normal pressure tester to the overflow bottle. You may be able to cross that number over if you want a different brand tool. There are "universal" kits out there also that hook to just about anything.
I take the grill off of all the 6.7 trucks because it sticks out so far. It allows me to get closer to the engine plus it keeps the grille from getting scratched up.
aww makes sense keep up the good work. We have a bunch of these trucks at my work. would you help me out if I had a problem with one of these and couldn't figure it out?
I work at a Ford dealer so I'm not sure who else might carry Motorcraft products because I don't have to shop around. VC-3-B is the actual part number for Motorcraft Specialty Orange anti-freeze. I would not put anything other than that in these engines.
You can go to any Ford dealer parts department and pick up some anti-freeze or any part you can think of. They are very accommodating for the do-it-yourselfers and independents.
ok so i just installed a new turbo with new gaskets and fluids well all the fluids were fine then i went out to check it this morning and not all the coolant had came back up into the degas bottle so i took the cap off and almost all of it drained back down into the system. i have no coolant leaks idk what to do. could it have been air in the system?
flmmaz ok i will cause i took it on a 100 mile trip yesterday anf it didnt miss a beat but i was just curious thanks! And have you ever had a problem with the oil dipstick leaking i think i knocked it loose during the install
@@flmmaz That would be great. I really enjoyed your videos, I'm an independent Ag tech in Bailey, NC; not too far from yourself. I own an 07 6.0 and a 15 6.7. Your videos along with others, selective training and my IDS loaded laptop have been invaluable working on these trucks. Between my brothers and myself we have 12 powerstrokes ranging from early 7.3s to the latest 6.7s (there's 7 of us lol). Hope all is well, take care. - Justin Bailey, Bailey Brother Ag Inc.
Thank you very, very much for posting this video. SO very helpful as my truck is a 2015 SRW F350. Saw this was the same year and thanked the Lord. The last trip to the dealership cost $1100 for something to do with the DEF tank. It was a $250 part and $800 in labor... makes me cringe every time I think about it. I have done many water pumps on Chevy gassers and this Ford was radically different and so much more challenging. Those bottom right bolts were a huge pain. I was so frustrated. My kid asked me “ why don’t you just pay to have it done.” Not sure what the dealership would charge, but I’m pretty sure I saved at least $1000 doing it myself. I’m a decent shade tree mechanic and it took me close to 10 hours... including viewing this CZcams video multiple times. This video answered any question I had. Thanks again... you were a life(and money) saver!!
I don't know how to thank you enough for this video. It seems to be the only 6.7 main water pump video of any detail on CZcams. On my '11 F350 I bought 2 months ago with 75k miles on it. No noises when I bought it but very quickly I was getting a grinding noise from a pulley. Catastrophic failure occurred yesterday at 82k miles and the bearing broke down causing a large leak from the center of the pump. Made it to safety without getting the engine hotter than normal.
I really didn't have the money for a dealer to do the job so I needed to try to do it myself. Today it took me and a buddy 8 hours to do the job. We are decent mechanics but not familiar with diesel or this truck. Had quite the issue with some of those lower right bolts on the pump. We couldn't have done it without this as a guide, it was challenging enough with it. It's all together and running leak free. Thank you so much for doing this and I wish you the best.
Your very welcome, glad to hear you got it running!
Jason the municipal mechanic
best videos check him out especially 6.7 water pump
great video. My lower hose was leaking and being a aviation mechanic I was going to change it however there were circumstances where I had to go out of town and due to time I took it to a dealership and they were going to charge me 1700+ to change it. They said the hose was leaking not the water pump . said the hose was over 700. I lost my mind and changed it myself for what they charged me to tell me what I told them was wrong in the first place.
Really enjoyed the video. You seem to be quite professional and courteous towards your customers. I wish there were mechanics like you in central Alabama.
Thank you sir.
Thus far u are not only a pro when it comes to work on this diesel powerstrokes but also u manage to take good videos to educate all powerstroke owners out there. Plz let me know name of that wrench u used to remove rad fan and any other tools involve on this job.
Thank you and keep up with the good job.
Thank you so much for this demonstration. It saved me $1,000 from taking it in to the dealership! Great directions for the small details too.
Just in time. I have the exact same problem on my 16 F350 Dooley. 38K miles, mild leak, add a quart or so every couple weeks, pressure tests ok - over several hours. Neighbor (retired truck shop owner) and I were going to tear into it next few days; however, it appears a special tool is needed for removal of the fan. I believe I'll let someone else work on it. Thank you.. Presentation, detail was great. This is NOT an engine easy to see anything.
No need for special tool for fan use a hammer and a adjustable
Easy don’t may times on my 6.7
Or remove whole bracket fan and all easy peazy
Thanks for giving us a peak into the life of a diesel mechanic. Currently, in the market for a lightly used F250, so it's nice to understand some common issues/concerns with these trucks.
Thank you, glad you liked it. Gotta couple of engine vids coming out soon.
Thanks for posting, took me 10hrs doing this job in my garage!!
Great video all around. You helped me save $1000 by changing my water pump myself.
How long it take ya
Makes me love my 7.3L that much more...great video!
Extremely good video, I know you must have taken great pains to get the camera in position to see exactly what you were doing, let alone see what you were doing yourself, not an easy task. Super awesome video, thank you for posting!!
Good video. I wonder if diesel mechanic have a higher suicide rate than gasoline mechanics. These Diesel's are a pain in the ass to work on.
Good stuff, Brad.
Enjoy the content.
Love your license plate. GOD bless you brother!!!👍
Wow! Heck of a tear down.
Hope you start making videos again, you are a first class mechanic
Awesome Brad;
I have 2011 Powerstroke; had coolant coming down on oil pan so i replace the cooling line with Fords Quick connect.. Drove it today and see coolant at the bottom of bell housing. Doesn't look like its running down from either side , just dead center of bottom of bell housing? Any ideas? I thought for sure it was the cooling line; unless it was that and something else!! Thanks so much for your videos!
I'm surprised that these pumps aren't built better than they are. I know that we only hear of the bad ones, but come on Ford, it's a pump, not a nuclear reactor.
Awesome bro. Thank you for the help. Does the new pump come with a gasket? Is there any need for a liquid gasket?
It comes with a gasket, no need for silicone or teflon type liquid gaskets.
@@flmmaz Awesome! Thank you so much for the quick reply. I'm smelling a little coolant from my 2012 6.7. no loss in the tanks yet. keeping my eye on it. is there a known problem with a leak anywhere other than the water pump
@@brooster87 did you find your issue or leak
@@135-j yes, it is the drain cock on the main radiator. It is very slow so I've not done anything to fix it yet. I'm waiting until it becomes a real problem. For now, I just check the fluid level. So far its ok. Thank you for asking.
you can see the oxidization on the water pump when your light hits it good video
Cool, and thanks.
Thank you so much for taking your time to post such a good and professional videos.
Could you plz tell me whats the name of that special wrench u used to remove rad fan. Thank you again.
My cooling system just started leaking and I can't find where from. It looks like the upper radiator hose at the engine, but it seems to be coming out everywhere. Never a drip until the other day. When I start it it is a constant stream on to the crossmember under the engine. I pulled it 15 feet back on my driveway and it left a constant stripe of coolant. Money is tight as I changed jobs and this is my daily. Any ideas what it could be? 140k miles. Coolant been flushed and changed 3 times in it's life. I can tell there is a leak from the upper hose. Just doesn't seem big enough to be what is pouring out. Only drips a little when truck is off.
I think I am in the same boat brother. After a trip to the dealer saying it was going to cost 6k I decided to get educated. So I’m going to fix the least expensive stuff first and then go down the list. They told me it was the front cover which would require the upper oil pan to be done as well which is why it was so much. After some internet searching there are some common things it could be. 1.Turbo coolant line. 2. The water pump seems like they can leak at the bearing for the pulley. 3. The cross over tube between the heads at the top front of the motor have had gasket issues. The plan was for me to just tackle all 3 while I have everything apart. Also another common problem is the Vacume pump bolts can become loose which I will loctite while the front end is apart. The 4th problem I’ve come across is the radiator leaks at the plastic edge. Haven’t decided if I’m going to tackle that one too while the front is torn apart. The parts for all 3 that I’m going to be doing are somewhere in the 400 dollar range. The radiator would double that to ball park 900. I have most of the tools so figured why not give it a shot. Hope this helps as I’ve been freaking out and frantically researching the last few days.
I appreciate you videos
Mine was the crossover pipe gaskets leaking. Took me a month to find it.
@flmmaz after you torque the big bolts, do you go back and re-torque the small bolts?
Looks like a run down dealership for sure. Need to get some updated lifts for you guys
Thanks bro so much)👍perfect job 🤝☝️
Miss your videos!
I have a question. I have a 2011 F-350 6.7 and have been starting to run through the 100,000+ preventative maintenance stuff. The serp belt is fine, but still original. I am wanting to replace it and normally always do that myself. My question is this. To replace the belt do I just need to remove the upper intake from the air box and access the belt that way? Or, do I need to also remove the upper shroud? I just had the primary and secondary system serviced (probably should have done it then).
excellent videos ,man
Appreciate it!
flmmaz thanks for the videos! I just had my coolant changed on my 6.7 at the dealer... I thought the new coolant would be orange or yellow in color but it's not... What color is the new coolant?
It's orange. But it can change color a bit when diluted with water. It can range from a bright red to a weird brownish/green.
awww you made it sound like a good one with something internal!. o well awsome video dude!
Looks like a run down dealership for sure. Need to get some updated lifts for you guya
I have the 2015 f350 KR. Thinks it's the over fill twords front grille, hada leak, buddy put new one in, and added a quarter gallon of the zerex g 05. Is that fine that he mixed that bit with the ford coolant that I'd in it??
your videos are awesome. thank you so much for what you do. I have learned so much about the 6.7. I do have a question, I have 2011 with 170,000 on mine now and want to flush both coolant systems and replace with factory coolant. is that something I can do without that airlift system or is that something I need to buy? I'm wanting to just do both systems by my self one weekend.
You can fill both systems the old fashion way without the airlift tool. Even if you had the tool you still need access to compressed air to pull the vacuum, which you may not have at home or wherever you are going to service the truck.
flmmaz thank you very much. your awesome. love your videos. be safe and I look forward to seeing more videos.
Thanks! I got a 9 part series I am putting together now on a 6.4 shortblock.
flmmaz that's great! I know its a lot of work. I'm sure just the editing takes you awhile. I look forward to seeing it.
flmmaz would you use the VC-9 for the main system flush and the VC-1 for the secondary system flush or just regular water Flush for both?
Have you considered pulling the rads rather than pulling the fan shroud and going it from the top? With the rads removed you access all through the front.
Unfortunately flat rate doesn’t give you enough time to do that. This was a warranty paid claim and the labor time is criminally low.
@@flmmaz Alright, just thought I would mention it. That's how we all do it at my Ford dealership
Miss your videos and you!!
Thanks Brad for all the great videos. I was going to ask you the part number of the coolant adapter, but I got lucky and seen it posted. I just looked on Snap on's website and I am not sure thats the correct part number. can you confirm me when you get the chance? You had posted SVT262-28A.
Thanks again!
Refresh my memory on what you are looking for. If you are wanting the secondary cooling system tester (small cap) then the number you are wanting to confirm is correct.
flmmaz I was looking for the correct adapter for the coolant recovery tank. I did some more research and found what I believe is correct from Stant. I will look and see if the SVT262-28A is the one in my kit already before I make a purchase. I am hoping that the Stant works properly with my Snap On tester. I appreciate you getting back to me. Thanks again!
OK, if you need the primary cooling system adapter, I use a AST FZ 32 and it fits regular cooling system pressure testers.asttool.com/detail_page.php?from_search=y&tool_number=FZ%2032%20A&offset=0&stype=searchbox&keywords=fz These guys make excellent tools, they are what I use for the fuel and trans line disconnects.
flmmaz Thank you, I will look into them for future purchases.
Thanks again for everything!
were you holding the fan manually when loosening the clutch nut with the air chisel or did you have another tool preventing the fan from turning?
I don't remove the fan from the fan drive. I remove the entire drive as an assembly.
I miss read your question way back when. The correct answer is: I leave the belt on and it holds the pulley from turning while the air hammer loosens the fan nut.
Great video boss thank you
Im looking at buying a 2016 f350 dually whats your general opinion on the 6.7?
Damn good engine, tons and tons of power. It had a few little things in the past that bothered like coolant fitting leaks but they have sorted all that out by 2016. The biggest problem you would ever encounter is exhaust gas temp sensors going bad.
Thanks! enjoyed your video.Always best to ask the guys that work on em.
I'm glad you liked it, and thanks!
Does the turbo have water cooling? As like the ecoboost engines?
flmmaz yes yes and yes I've had all those problems with my 2012 6.7 lol
I need my water pump replaced on a 2016 f350 it’s been leaking.. how much does it cost to get the job done?
What was PH of the coolant. I didn't see add any, with PH between 3 & 6 non asidic.
fleetgard DCA test strips are a must for any good diesel mechanic.
This particular job required brand new antifreeze due to the severity of the leak.
New antifreeze has a PH of 1 or 0 acidic antifreeze is what took out the water pump seal if the arbor bearings were tight.
what coolant did u use and what kind was in the 5 gallon bucket. Also why did u add that gallon to the coolant.
I have a 2013 f250 and seems to have low coolant in the reservoir but looked and looked to see what kind to add to just top off and bring back up to the cold fill line but don't know exactly what to add. I know it suppose to be orange antifreeze/coolant but what is that cv12 re-stabilizer stuff. IF you could let me know what to add i would greatly appreciate it
The bucket is a cleaned out unit that I use specifically for premixing anti-freeze. The anti-freeze for these trucks is specialty orange VC-3-B and that is what is in the bucket. It can be premixed with tap water or distilled water. Ford recommends distilled water but ultimately the customer will have the final say so on that :). I am using an air lift cooling system refill tool and it requires more anti-freeze to be available than what the truck actually holds. The 5 gallon bucket is not enough to fill the system so I have to add another gallon of "premixed" anti-freeze to the bucket as I am filling the system. If I had a bigger bucket then I wouldn't have to do that.The revitalizer is VC-12. It should be added if the corrosion inhibitor level is off or if the coolant is being drained, caught, and reused after a repair.
My coolant is level is low. So if i get a gallon of the motorcfrat orange antifreeze/coolant and fill my reservoir and then run and let cool and add more if needed i should be ok? i already tested the coolant and it passed on the test strips i just need to know what to and to fill it up when i am not replacing all the coolant.
You can actually buy this anti-freeze in a premixed gallon container or if you get a straight gallon, I would premix it with distilled water. If you have to add more than a half gallon of fluid then you will need to determine where the leak is. If you have an unchecked leak then it could lead to cavitation and or corrosion issues.
So if the stuff i need to get called orange antifreeze/coolant premixed or is it called something else? and is that all i would have to add or will i need to add the coolant (whatever one i am suppose to get) and the CV12 also.
If you decide to get premix from the dealer then the number is VC-3DIL-B. Most stores probably will not have that. Your best bet is just to get a gallon of VC-3-B (specialty orange) and mix it yourself (50/50). If you aren't repairing a leak and your dipstrip tested ok then you will not need the VC-12.
nice videos. thanks for this!!!!
Which adapter for the pressure tester?
Great video!
Appreciate it.
Was this covered under warranty?
Im at 65k miles should i replace water pump since my fan clutch gave out?
do you know where I could get the adapter to pressurize the secondary cooling system to check for coolant leaks?
I use Snap-on part #SVT262-28A. This adapts a normal pressure tester to the overflow bottle. You may be able to cross that number over if you want a different brand tool. There are "universal" kits out there also that hook to just about anything.
Why did you take the grill off?
I take the grill off of all the 6.7 trucks because it sticks out so far. It allows me to get closer to the engine plus it keeps the grille from getting scratched up.
aww makes sense keep up the good work. We have a bunch of these trucks at my work. would you help me out if I had a problem with one of these and couldn't figure it out?
You betcha.
what way would it be the best to get a hold of you?
Go to your youtube settings and confirm your name and then I will be able to send you a private message.
I didn't get to see the water pump gasket install did you put it on dry?
It's a ribbon style press in gasket and already comes installed on the pump. You can get a quick glimpse of it at 26:59
flmmaz Thanks Brad I got it...
love the music , who is it?
Chevelle "Family System"
do you know who carries that coolant VC-3-B specialty orange? is there a certain brand i got to get or any brand as long as it is VC-3-B
I work at a Ford dealer so I'm not sure who else might carry Motorcraft products because I don't have to shop around. VC-3-B is the actual part number for Motorcraft Specialty Orange anti-freeze. I would not put anything other than that in these engines.
flmmaz rock auto carries vc3b
@@flmmaz didn’t they change and no longer make orange I have a 2012 what coolant is used now yellow or gold for 11-16
@@135-j they did change it. Now they are giving me a yellow VC-13DL-G
How long did this water pump take you?
About 4 hours with diagnosis.
if i call the dealership will they sell me a gallon are do the have to charge me a arm and leg to do it themselves?
You can go to any Ford dealer parts department and pick up some anti-freeze or any part you can think of. They are very accommodating for the do-it-yourselfers and independents.
ok so i just installed a new turbo with new gaskets and fluids well all the fluids were fine then i went out to check it this morning and not all the coolant had came back up into the degas bottle so i took the cap off and almost all of it drained back down into the system. i have no coolant leaks idk what to do. could it have been air in the system?
Most likely they can be hard to bleed out. Fill again and let it heat up and cool down and recheck.
flmmaz ok i will cause i took it on a 100 mile trip yesterday anf it didnt miss a beat but i was just curious thanks! And have you ever had a problem with the oil dipstick leaking i think i knocked it loose during the install
No more videos have not posted nothing really want to know how you are doing at your new 🏠
I'm doin' good, I appreciate you checkin' in. I gotta do an update vid.
@@flmmaz That would be great. I really enjoyed your videos, I'm an independent Ag tech in Bailey, NC; not too far from yourself. I own an 07 6.0 and a 15 6.7. Your videos along with others, selective training and my IDS loaded laptop have been invaluable working on these trucks. Between my brothers and myself we have 12 powerstrokes ranging from early 7.3s to the latest 6.7s (there's 7 of us lol). Hope all is well, take care. - Justin Bailey, Bailey Brother Ag Inc.
I was looking at 16:00 minutes in and wondering what the tool was FYI it's this: amzn.to/3yihHAe
That's a ford for you only 70,000 miles and leaking lol.