HOW TO KNURL ON THE LATHE
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- čas přidán 11. 03. 2023
- This is part 2 of a demonstration on how to make consistently beautiful & perfect knurls on steel & alum. In this video I show the frailties of bump type knurlers as compared to the the foolproof pinch type knurlers used on screw machines.
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#knurling#knurlrollers#brown&sharpeknurlers#clausinglathe#atlaslathe#machineshop#tubalcain - Věda a technologie
Did anyone else wanted to see the setup of the knurler besides me?
Yes
Yes
I would have liked to see that too. Mr.Pete, can we talk you into doing a part 3 that covers setting up the B and S type knurling tools?
Me too :-)
Yes.
Ya dun good again kid! You are kinda like the Mr. Rogers, of machining Mr. Pete. Everyone needs a "good neighbor" like you.
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Cyber archaeologist in 2257: “This Mr Pete guy sure knew his stuff!”
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You should make a dvd or digital set off everything you’ve ever done so we don’t lose your knowledge!!! Pass on knowledge not lose it!! Thanks Mr Pete!! Love all your stuff always looking it over and over again!! Not many left like you!!! Thanks again!!!!
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I paused the video and really looked close at that picture and it was hilarious!!! It reminds me of my daily work flow aka bad luck lol
Mr. Pete, that's a knarley knurling video!😂
Good job thanks for sharing
I always give you a thumbs up Mr. Pete, even before I watch the whole video.
Thanks
The Duke of Knurl!
Good one. I should rename the video
I learned the basics of machining in high school machine shop, but I got a real education from an old Swedish modelmaker at a company I worked for right out of high school. I've watched many of your videos. You're such a great teacher, and you really remind me of that Swedish modelmaker--- He taught me very much the same way as your videos. Thanks, Mr.Pete, for keeping this knowledge alive--- Manual Machining is all but gone, and very few have the knowledge and talent to do it.
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I too would like to see the setup for the B&S style knurler.
Another!! very interesting video!!
Beautiful knurls Mr Pete by bagesh and bagash.Thank you.
Brings back many memories. My students were always amazed when they saw knurling for the first time.
"Not as much Mayhem." So, did Mr. Mayhem lose a digit or a limb? I had an unflattering nickname was a little kid. "Tornado" was part of that name. And it didn't matter if I had one arm tied behind my back, it was just my nature.
I have a scissors type knurler and a few bump types. I may try and make my own BS or WS style. They don't look all that difficult to make. So, they are probably way more complex than I can handle, and will result in another "growing" experience. Growing piles of swarf, broken tooling and scrapped parts!!!! Thanks for the excellent instruction Dr. Pete!
I have a 00 B & S knurler if you like to borrow it sometime and try out.😁
@@4GSR Good morning Sunshine!! That sounds like a plan! thanks!
Lyle,
Have you tried the bump knurler without using power feed, I think your results may be better.
And with due respect, I believe you were making square knurls with the angle set at 45°. The 30° setting would give you the diamond knurl.
Love the channel, please keep sharing.
Tony.
Next time I visit Starrett, I’m going to pay attention to their production knurling practice. Seems to be the gold standard. 👍
Mr Pete, I commented yesterday that I own a scissor type knurler and I get pretty good diamonds etc... I didn't give it much thought but, the scissors style cutters are positioned much like the B&S tools in that they are not pushing from the sides( like the bump style) but are on the top and bottom. On the scissors type there is quite a bit of effort in moving the tool down the workpiece and , for me powerfeed is almost a must in getting good, consistent diamonds.
I liked seeing you take control in year 2😂
Thank you for showing Mr. Pete great video on knurling I like the screw machine knurling I use them on the Cnc lathe with many gallons of cooling turned out fantastic have fun .
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Mr. Pete every video of yours gets a 👍from me! It's always good to learn what is correct, what is not, why one is correct and how to get the correct result every time.
A lesson I need to see (you may have covered but I've not found...yet) is fitting a solid, no pre drilled holes, backplate to a chuck.
If you've done it and know the episode number I'll definitely watch it.
Thanks Mr. Pete
Thank you for watching, I don’t think I have done a video on the backing plate
Thanks Mr Pete.
yet another great one..
'Thumbs up' as requested...
Thanks Mr. Pete for the knurling lesson. I was told not to have the knurl diamond come to a point, to always have a flat on the tip, otherwise it will bite into your hand.
True
Thanks for the contribution🤗😎🤗😎
With the bump aloris on 303 I found you have to support with tailstock live center and use pretty heavy pressure.
God bless you Mr. Pete. I have watched every one of your videos since day one and they are so calming and educational.
All the best.
Mike
Thank you very much
Mr. Pete, would be cool to do a follow up showing knurling different diameters with the same tool. Proving that you don’t need to calculate the diameters/ratio or do any of that nonsense. Or maybe DO the calculation and deliberately cut a knurl with the “wrong” diameter stock and show that it still comes out perfect. Also maybe do the calculation and show that the bump knurlers are horrible even when you do the math.
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Good Morning Mr Pete!!!
The Tennessee Mole Man 👍🇺🇸🍊🍊🍊
knurling is an art for itself, well done Pete, thanks for sharing
Hi Mr Pete i might be late but with my boring bar holder has a 1'' hole and a 3/4 '' to 1 '' sleave that came with it its a import .Good subject thanks again .JM
Excellent follow up video for part one , thanks for taking the time to do this MrPete 👍👍👍👍
many thanks Lyle.
excellent video.. i think making one of those knurling tools would be a great project..
Mr Pete it would be neat to get booth of those carton drawings with your autograph maybe in pdf format . JM
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I sure have learned a lot here over the years! Thank you.
Glad to hear it!
I was always told that the work piece needs to be a multiple of the diameter of the rollers on the bump style knurling tool.
Nice demo Lyle. I use the B& S type knurllers all the time, mostly on my turret lathe, they work awesome. I like using the chamfered edge knurllers, they start easier. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Randy. I just watched your video on installing the knee power feed. It’s never very simple. Is it, L O L but you’re doing a great job.
@@mrpete222 All up and running great. Thank you for stopping in.
Very nicely done. Always a pleasure to watch and learn from you.
I’m still wondering about the stock diameter vs. the knurler tooth pitch/diameter…if not matched couldn’t the teeth in knurler be off a half a tooth on the stock and wipe out the just-formed teeth in the stock? Your part 1 video said not to worry about the stock diameter/knurler diameter but I am a worrier. Maybe the stock compensates by deforming in a way that matches the knurler?
I've always been confused about this, I'm assuming it must slip and fall in.
@@anthonymorency1107 I am glad to hear I’m not the only one that is confused!
The finished knurl is a repeating pattern with a fixed length. If the circumference isn't an integer multiple of the pattern length then there must be one point in the circumference where there is an error in the pattern as the wheels re-align. I guess a bad knurl is where this re-alignment doesn't occur quickly, or fails to occur at all. I need to have a really close look at any examples I can find to see if I can pick the point where it re-aligns. The only other thing I can think is that the rotation of the wheels causes the pattern to rotate with respect to the axis of the shaft, altering the pattern length, so that the re-alignment occurs automatically. But the math in working that out is way beyond me.
That "B&S" knurler is great adapted to the lathe. I have several videos of adapting screw machine/ turret lathe tooling to my Logan 10" lathe. Great video as alway Mr. Pete!👍
Thanks, I will look them up
I've done quite a bit of knurling through the years have also done face drilling on a milling machine where I put my knurling tools into a holder into a collet and then just pass the work underneath the knurls on the flat surface.
Thank you for your exceptional content Sir. I am a fan of your videos for several years.
I appreciate that!
Great presentation Mr Pete. We know the good stuff is heard to find & expensive - worth the price if you can find the tooling !! John
Thank you Mr Pete. As always, I enjoyed it and I learned from you. Enjoy the rest of your weekend.
Fantastic! I fully understand the dynamics of knurling with this type knurling tool. The knurling wheels “swipe” across the surface instead of being mashed straight in.
Happy SNOWY WINDY cruddy weather filled Sunday Morning, I hope you remembered the Sabbath etc.!
I find using reverse on the lead screws cross threads the knurls due to the backlash issues.
It is a nasty day in Illinois. Actually, the Sabbath is Saturday not Sunday.
The straight knurls don't look to be parallel to the longitudinal axis of the work piece; i.e. over even the short distance that you knurled, they appear to be slightly twisted. Just a comment. I like the scissors type, in particular the UK-made Marlco knurling tool which is both self centring and cam actuated via a lever (against an pre-settable depth-stop). Maybe you can look it up in some old catalogue - something that you seem to enjoy doing (LOL!).
Ian.
Thank you for the video series on knurling. I haven't done much knurling over the years. The few times I've cut knurls I've used a cut style knurling tool dad borrowed from work back in the 1960's. Sadly, it's so old I can't find any new knurls that will fit this old tool. Anyways, I've tried the Aloris one with zero luck with it. It now is used with a chamfering tool only. Did buy a elcheapo scissor type knurling tool and amazingly it cuts some very nice knurls! Ken
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Excellent!
Let the Swarf be with you.
Good morning Mr Pete, never fail to enjoy learning a little something with you sir, please keep up the good work, best wishes from merry ol England
I bought one of the Brown and Sharpe knurlers after watching an earlier video of yours. They do make really nice knurls once they are set up, and the only major drawback is you can't knurl in the middle of a workpiece. A scissor knurler would be ideal for that. I have a couple of tricks for getting mine set up. I use the tailstock to center the tool up/down. To get the knurling wheels set you will need some trial and error at first, but if you can record the measurements of a successful knurl you'll be able to use those for faster setup in the future. Start on the lighter side because if you go too deep it can put incredible stress on your cross slide. The Brown and Sharpe manual suggested moving the knurlers in until they contact the workpiece, then retract the tool and advance each knurling wheel 1/4 turn with the adjustment screw. This was way too much for me. I ended up closer to 1/8 of a turn, and that has been very repeatable. I use a small piece of very thin paper between the workpiece and knurling wheel, advancing the wheel just until I feel the paper bind. Repeat on the other wheel, retract the tool, and advance each side 1/8 turn. Another excellent method if you have some adjustable parallels is to measure the space between the knurling wheels and compare it to the diameter of your workpiece. Record this measurement once you get a successful knurl. In the future you can just measure the piece you want to knurl, subtract toe recorded amount, and set your parallel to that measurement. Now use the parallel to set your wheels the correct distance apart. Watch both wheels as you advance the tool onto the workpiece and move your cross slide until both wheels make even contact.
That is almost the exact way that I made my set up, including using the tailstock center. Yes, the disadvantages you cannot make a very long neural, especially in larger diameters.
If a longer handle was to be knurled would it be a better outcome with the first style tool if it was turned with the tail stock center. Then set the speed very slow and the feed rate to advance half of the roller width per spindle revolution about.125 or 8 threads per inch? Thanks Mr. Pete for another great video!
Thank You Mr. Pete! A very useful video!
Nice! Gotta find me some driveshaft yokes and make me a few of those! 😁
Yes, I would like to find a yolk from a smaller vehicle and try to make one
It seems like it would take a lifetime to setup a machine shop perfect.
Every job to do right just about requires tooling specific to that job, and then the fixtures, jigs, clamps, vises, etc.
I have to constantly keep myself from buying a lathe because I know I will be chasing all those small things down the rest of my life.
I know myself too well, and each project will be a reason to order a new tool. I will just have to be happy with 3d printing and wood work as I'm pretty setup in that dept.
But it sure does look fun and satisfying! Even if it's just watching on CZcams.
It’s important to clean the knurling wheels before starting. Any metal left in the knurl wheels can be embedded in the work piece. This is especially important when going from steel to softer metals like aluminum and brass.
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I have one of these b&s style knurling tools. I never use it because I don't know how to set it up. I wish you would have shown how to set the tool up like you said you were going to earlier in the video.
Mr Pete, you make knurling look enjoyable, as well it should, thank you for an excellent demonstration 🇬🇧
Have you ever had to sharpen a knurl to improve traction? And all you have is a 6" triangle file. If you worked on small Xerox machines in 1980 you did. They would wear down and were not a replaceable part and all they did was feed paper. Finally we developed a one wheel knurling and we used it on one side and turned it over to cross the pattern. Them were the days my friend.
Very interesting, never heard of sharpening one
I have gotten good Knurls with the Aloris rigid knurl thingy, but it's a crap shoot for sure. I don't have any other type of knurling tool right now. I do use the wheel style that starts out on the edge as opposed to the tapered side style which helps I find. The turret or screw machine style really is the best. I bet I could make one in my spare time....someday!
Yes, make one I’m thinking about doing it myself
Thanks Mr Pete, always interesting, informative and funny. Though I still gotta believe that the stock's circumference and the wheel's pitch have got to be evenly dividable, else it overlaps somewhat, deforms each and is less then perfect, though it looks pretty good to the eye.
👍 Knarly Knurls 🤓👍
I believe the starting circumference of the stock is critical to easily produce a proper knurl. It is a function of the knurl wheel pitch and the circumference. Divide the circumference with the knurl pitch, and the closer the result is to a whole number, the better the results.
Agree!
Straight knurls is nothing but a small gear interacting with a larger gear. For this to run smoothly, there is a relationship between the two. Now, when knurling, the metal is massaged. The result is that the workpiece is forced into correct diameter. You will find this in the diameter of the resulting knurled part of the workpiece. In practical work you do not care about the diameter of the knurling, but if you do, you must start with a workpiece of correct diameter and the knurling must go to a specific depth.
No mathematics are necessary If the knurls are set deep enough with a good flow of oil they will self-track on any diameter after a few rotations. I’ve made thousands of perfectly formed diamond knurls on 3/4, 1.00, 1.25, 1.50, and 1.75 diameter 6061 T6 aluminum without calculating exact diameters. The free rotating knurls actually slip slightly into previous grooves once a tracking pattern is established.
@@ellieprice363, I only said "the closer the result is to a whole number, the better the results". Of course brute force will also solve the problem, if you a have scissor-type knurler - or the type Mr. Pete demonstrated.
@@ellieprice363 Yes, brute force may do the math. That is, you press the knurler exactly so deep that the knurled part is perfect. In witch case the pitch of the knurler coinside with the correct diameter, but you have no control with he diameter of the finished knurled section.
@@ellieprice363 Please take a look here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knurling
They indicate that the workpiece should have a sertain diameter for best result with a given knurler.
A scissors type knurling tool is not limited with making a longer knurl. I agree with you, usually knurls are not much over an inch and the Aloris style should pose no issue, unless for some reason the knurl was located in the middle of a long shaft. I cannot think of an example, just thinking out loud. Thanks for all the information given here.
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Mr Pete, unfortunately you neglected to show us how to set up the knurling wheels. It would be so interesting to see this. Could you do a quick part 2a please. Watch all your videos and have learnt so much. Cheers Nobby
I always wondered how a knurler doesn't just mash the diamond points of the previously formed points, how does it "self synchronize" to prevent this? Nothing seems to be timed or set like you do with gear teeth....? Thanks Mr.Pete!
Great video as always Mr Pete, i make 1000s of perfect knurls at work on cnc machines using a bump style single wheel knurl tool. I have seen charts about pitch and diameter requirements but its not necessary. Try cutting straight to depth at a feed close to the pitch of the knurl at slow spindle speeds (200rpm). I find the trick to plunging is to do it quickly so the form is nice and deep by the time it comes around the teeth have a greater chance of falling into the correct path, although i'm not sure how well this would translate to a manual machining
Thank you for that information
Mr. Pete, the bump knurler catalog pages from video 859 were very clear that tailstock support was necessary. Even though you had a short stick-out, since you observed material deflection (and bad knurls!), it really seems like a fair test requires using a live center. Any reason you didn't?
Great video. At 18:07 your knurl is pretty good but notice how the diamonds don't form a straight line? This is where the material diameter vs diametral pitch comes in. If you adjust the material diameter slightly you'll see those diamonds line up perfectly. Sometimes you can get away with adjusting the depth of the knurl to fix this issue.
Yes
Every video I watch of yours is a definite thumbs up. Not cheap even used but I purchased one based on the information in video 1. Hope this isn't a really ignorant question. Because the posts holding the dies rotate, could you turn the tool post 90° to the chuck face and run the material through from the side and hence not limit the length? Not that I can think why one longer than 2" might be needed LOL.
I feel like there should be a thread rolling tool next, if you happen to have one. Another awesome video. Thanks for posting :)
My guess the problem of bump knurlers is essentially chatter and lack of rigidity. The cutters can jump out of "timing" too easily.
Thank You Lyle... ( i am thinking to myself "how does Lyle Peterson get soooo much energy") You are so very active with so much wonderful information... I LOVE & LEARN ALL YOU DO..... TM
Actually, I don’t have much energy and I am getting pretty lazy
Well well - now I know why my push type was never satisfying. I had already concluded the pinch type knurl tool was the way to go, but having your demonstration and opinion certainly solidifies that. Thanks for your continuing education.
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Thank you! I would like to see the results of using a clamp-type knurling tool that is sold on both eBay and Amazon and compare the results to your Brown & Sharpe knurling tools.
If you mess up the OD on something that is press fit you can straight knurl it to make it tight fit.
Mr Pete you said you would show us how you setup the knurl to the diameter of stock What happened.?
I don’t have a knurled, but I have to get one. Thanks Mr Pete
Mr Pete if you like I can send you my scissor knurler to try and to compare and contrast,at this time I don't foresee myself of having a need for them in the very near future.
I was surprised McMaster & Carr didn't have the tool holders only wheels. They had a hand knurler that looks like a pipe cutter.
It does help with the bump knurler to set a one pass depth and just go for it. It does seem to improve your odds of getting a better knurl.
Thanks for the video
RE: ALORIS Knurling attachment lack of Quality and less than fine cut, I believe that if you examine the beginning frames of the cut, show quite clearly that the TOP roller engages the work (starts to spin) before the BOTTOM does. This is evidence of the tool needing to be raised. I believe better Z axis will vastly improve it's cut, as well as employing tailstock or follow rest being needed as well. Also from what I could see, the cutters had leftover swarf or even damaged cutting edges. Knurling close to the jaws would help. I also saw the TOP cutter bobbing up and down while in use....couldn't see the bottom one. see video at abt. 6:59.
Love ALL your Videos!
I have a bump knurler, and I hate it! I've never acheived a decent knurl, I'm getting the scissor knurling tool shortly, and feel sure I'll get good results, but those Brown & Sharp ones you just showed would be preferable, but hard to get here in the UK. great video Mr Pete, thanks!
Yeah, I have scissor knurler and it works quite well. The scissor knurler is better for your machine as there isn't near the pressure on the cross feed screw. You carefully position the rolls so that they are dead center with the part, you can do it by feel. Then, turn the machine on and tighten the knurler, put it in feed.
Hope this helps.
I wonder.....if a person could get a live center to provide support, if that would work.... might be to close quarters .... just a thought. Thanks Mr. Pete, I really like seeing different tooling and methods. Very appreciated
Mr. Pete I’ve watched most of your videos so far always informative even in your rants & rumblings something to learn keep them up ,what I didn’t hear you say when using bump or scissor type knurlier was to never disengage from the work till you were happy with your knurl this is what I see most other creators on CZcams do wrong
You are right, I failed to say that
Good knurling video. Could you cover the difference between these form knurls and cut knurls?
thank you Mr Pete
In my work we've been using a straight knurl to create a interference fit on the end of silver steel pins
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Ive looked for a knurler for a few years now, off and on. Ive never seen that type, only the cheap push type. Ive never made a good knurl before, I think Ill have to buy a kit from hemingway to get a decent one.
A good demonstration Lyle. Now all I have to do is find an old B&S.
I wish I would have had that type of knurling tool as opposed to the bump style in HS shop.
I bet the antics of the kids in your or anyone's shop class would make for a great Sunday newspaper comic strip. I turned in time to see (but not stop) a Special Ed kid get the result of using a cross cut guide and rip fence simultaneously on a table saw. It nutted the kid so hard he dropped to his knees. It took what seemed like an eternity to convince my beloved teacher 1. That the kid didn't cut anything important off and 2. That a heart attack was totally unnecessary.
Yes, I wish I had documented every scary or crazy incident over the years. I could write a book. That’s a horrible story about the tablesaw.
You made me feel pretty good, Mr Pete! I'm a new, self-taught user of machine tools, and I've gotten some pretty good results with the Aloris style bump knurler I got from Shars. I've only used it on aluminum and brass, and made some crummy ones, but I think at least 60% of my attempts look pretty good. Maybe 30%, in my opinion, look quite good. I did not use power feed, and I think my biggest blunder was not using enough fluid. I'm sure a lot of it was just luck, but I think another helpful thing, for me at least, was really careful setup. Those of mine that looked the worst were, I think, caused by one of the rollers putting more pressure on the work piece than the other. It seems like getting really close matching of the pressure is a bit of a crap shoot. Even when they seemed to be the same, I think they often weren't.
I just got a scissor type knurler in the mail, and look forward to giving that one a try. Thanks for the excellent teaching!
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mr pete, does not matter if you repeat a subject that you already covered years ago, i always love and enjoy your content, how about fitting a digital read out scales ect to a south bend lathe, a 9inch would be great, all the best from down under
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Excellent video! Would also enjoy a video using the scissor type knurler. Hopefully someone will donate one for you to make a video using that type.
i have used my brown & sharpe kurling tool many times on my Hardinge DSM 59 turret lathe, to get the best results, you need to flood the part with oil or coolant to wash the chips off of the knurling wheels.
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Good morning Mr Pete!
Last video I was convinced that I would pick up the knurlmaster hand knurler. Found one on feebay with only straight wheels but new would cost all my molars. Non-knurled thumb screws it is. Thanks for the video
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Thank you for the video. I found it very interesting despite the fact that from now on I'll look at all my existing bad knurls with disappointment. I wish you had a scissor knurler in the video. I wonder if getting good results with them is fairly easy or hard. These days one often sees those Chinese made scissor knurlers that look like two pieces of 4in long, half inch square bar stock with rollers attached on the end, mounted in a V configuration, having a single thin screw for setting the spacing. I often wondered if these are a waste of time or not? They don't look very rigid at all. If they're useless I can see myself making one similar to those screw machine types shown.
I have seen those Chinese scissors knurlers in catalogs. I have never used one and I really do not know about the air quality.