I could only get a 10mm ratcheting box wrench to work, I could not get that dipstick to move at all, maybe 1/2”, too much stuff in the way. I stuck a screwdriver in the front of the valve, when I removed the tube, and turned it counter clockwise and it “broke” that back bolt loose, I then loosened it 1/4 turn at a time with my 10mm ratcheting box wrench, took so long, but got it. I also removed the tube, and it made so much space to work to remove the harness, no issue with that, so much access once that tube was out of the way. Took me about 3 hrs with everything. Easiest just to remove the entire fender, take out the 5 screws, and take the entire thing off, not just the liner. Buy a kit with the plastic clips when you replace, put them in the fender first, then “stick” to the frame, so easy.
After replacing my 2nd EGR valve on my 2011 JK (3.8 Automatic), I want to share a few tips that I learned the hard way. This job is a pain as it is very hard to access the EGR valve. The key to making this job easier (or even possible) is to have the right tools and follow a particular sequence. The following flexible locking head pass-thru wrench (GEARWRENCH 27 Pc. 1/4" Drive 6 Pt. Pass-Thru™ Mechanics Tool Set, Standard SAE/Metric - 891427) was a lifesaver the key to getting this job done correctly. If you use something else, you have a good chance of stripping the bolts and/or not being able to access a couple bolts at all. Note: they sell this ¼” drive wrench and 10mm socket separately for less $ but I bought the entire set. I HIGHLY recommend buying at least the flexible wrench and 10mm socket (the locking head mechanism and shallow body on this is a key to how it works so well in this application - also, only use 6 point sockets for this job to not strip the bolts.) The first time I replaced my EGR, I didn't have this and it took forever and I stripped a bolt. Worth every penny. www.amazon.com/dp/B000NIAKJU?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Use a good worklight for this job. 1) From on top of the engine, remove (2) 8mm bolts holding the rigid silver tube that connects down to the side of the EGR. You will also use a 12mm socket to remove the bracket holding 2 rigid black plastic tubes (next to trans dipstick) and pop those tubes out of bracket (set bracket aside). Now remove 12mm bolt (under the bracket you just removed) holding he silver EGR tube down to valve cover. 2) Jack car up & remove front passenger side wheel. Use jack stands for safety as you will be reaching in through the passenger side wheel-well to do most of the work. 3) Using a trim removal tool, remove trim push nuts holding passenger side inner wheel well plastic cover and remove the wheel-well and gain access to the EGR. You can leave the plastic fender in place for this job. You should have new trim push barbs on hand as you will probably break these taking them out. They sell a pack of them on Amazon. 4) From wheel-well side, remove the (2) 8mm bolts holding the silver tube elbow to the EGR valve & lift tube out of vehicle from top of the engine side. 5) Trace the 3 spark plug wires from the passenger side of the engine over to where they plug in to the distributor block on the driver side of engine. Mark the three wires (1, 2, 3) with a sharpie or tape so you know where to replace them after you are done. Unplug the 3 spark plug wires from the distributor on driver side & pull though to passenger side of engine folding out of the way exposing the top of the EGR valve. (note how the wires are routed as it is sort of a pain to push them back through under all the tubes and wires when you want to reconnect them - you don't need to unplug from spark plugs and you can keep wires in the plastic bracket). 6) You can now see the top of the EGR valve and the wiring connector you will need to disconnect. Use a screwdriver or pick tool to push the red tab on connector toward the firewall of car. Then use a long screwdriver to push down on the black tab/middle back top of connector while pushing connector with a long needle nose pliers (or screwdriver) toward drivers side to release connector (note: you will not be able to remove the connector all the way yet because there is a stud bolt sticking up from the engine preventing the connector from sliding all the way off - as long as you release the connector and slide it a bit off you are good for now… taking it completely off occurs later). 7) From inside wheel-well, you will now use a 10mm socket to remove the lower bolt from the EGR valve. (Note: use only 6 point sockets and make sure they are seated correctly before trying to break these EGR bolts loose, you DO NOT WANT TO STRIP THESE BOLTS - make sure you are using 10MM and they are kept seated well on the bolt before using even pressure to break the bolts free - lefty looseny). 8) When the lower EGR bolt is removed. You will now take your hand and push the top of the EGR valve away from you to break free the hidden 2nd EGR bolt. Be careful to not get your fingers caught between the EGR and the trans dipstick tube. (you can also stick a rod/screwdriver into the hole on side of EGR for leverage but hand pressure worked for me). 9) With the EGR now moving, you can now angle the connector upward and detach the wire connector from the top side (much easier than doing from underneath). 10) You now NEED to get the dipstick tube moved toward the driver side slightly to be able to access the hidden EGR bolt. Some dipstick tubes are attached by a lower bracket which is in a real tight spot to remove. Near the EGR valve at firewall, you can see/feel a bracket with a 10mm bolt. You will need to access the bolt head from the firewall side (there are some rubber tubes at the firewall that get in the way but you can work around them). Using the 1/4" drive 10mm pass-thru wrench (linked above) saved me on this job. I locked the wrench head for a slight back-angle and using the 10mm socket and feeling with two hands was able to loosen the bracket bolt - be patient. One bracket bolt was disconnected, from the top side I used a strong bungee around the top of dipstick tube and pulled as far as I could toward drivers’ side and attached it to something. My hood was fully flipped back this whole time. This moved the dipstick tube a couple inches toward driver side and now allowed access to the final EGR bolt using the special pass-thru socket (linked above). 11) From the wheel-well, you can now use the 10mm pass-thru flexible head socket to access the final EGR bolt. You will need to remove the bolt by hand once it gets loose enough. 12) Reverse the procedure to install the new EGR using anti-seize on the bolt threads. Don't forget the gaskets. Don’t over-tighten bolts as you could break them off - just very snug. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Thank you sir. I'm getting a P0406 code. EGR is only year old about 30k miles Dorman. Bought my 07 JK new now has 451k miles. Going for 1 million. Awesome tip.
The carriage bolt with a nut idea was a great tip here along with the zip ties pulling the tube over towards the driver's side. BTW, the current prevailing tip in loosening that hidden EGR bolt is to push the top of the EGR valve towards the driver's side which will act as a counter-clockwise wrench on that bolt and will reveal it once it tips over far enough.....this assumes you already removed the top wire connector. Cheers!
I stuck a screwdriver in the openining, when i removed the 8mm screws and bottom 10mm screw, that gave me leverage to turn it, worked so good, screw loosened right up, took rest of way out with 10mm ratcheting 12pt box wrench, took a while, but worked.
@@ronstickle4694 Finally got around to changing mine, did learn some new words, took off the whole fender instead of just the inner, a 10" X 1/2" extension works real nice for the trans tube. I Hate Engineers! There I said it! Thanks again!
My 1/4 Ratchet is definitely thin, but the handle is not as long as the one you have. Do you think that will be an issue? Also, what size is that carriage bolt? Length and size of diameter does it have to be a super long one like you used?
Key #1 Dealer Tech, will be doing this job over, and over and over again This tells you it's a COMMON Problem Key #2 Move the Dip Stick out of the way (if it's an Auto - Manuals DStick are on other side so should be fine) Key #3 Make sure you have a Narrow / Thin Flex Head Socket Wrench A I have been researching this issue, the EGRs are Junk, Cause Problems and need to be replaced, SOMETIMES you can reset the Engine Diagnostic and the EGR Problem will go away and resolve itself, this however, comes and goes B You can save some DOLLARS by removing the EGR Valve, and CLEANING it, some suggest WD40 Soak for 5 hours, and then clean and dry, then reinstall and should not be an issue for awhile, or you may have wasted your time, some say it works, others claim they did and still ended up replacing it sooner rather than later, twice the hassle BUT if it does work, you save $100+ on part Good Luck to you May 2023
Hello a shop just replaced the egr valve and it’s ticking when I rev it was it put in wrong? It did remove the engine light but I’m thinking of removing it and inspecting it to see if there’s something wrong
@@vaughnmcintyre6386 ok so the jeep shop that replaced the egr valve said the ticking must be from somewhere else but I swear I was hearing from that egr valve location. So I went ahead and took it to another shop and sure enough they tell me the egr was placed incorrectly so they went ahead and fixed that issue. So I ended up paying twice for the egr replacement
Do you happen to know the sizes of the bolts? I know there are 2 10mm and 2 8mm bolts but what are the lengths? I have a kit but it didn’t come with bolts and lack another vehicle. Can’t find information anywhere
I just replaced the EGR valve and with your tip, it worked out really well. Thanks for the tip 🤘🏻😎
thank you!
I could only get a 10mm ratcheting box wrench to work, I could not get that dipstick to move at all, maybe 1/2”, too much stuff in the way. I stuck a screwdriver in the front of the valve, when I removed the tube, and turned it counter clockwise and it “broke” that back bolt loose, I then loosened it 1/4 turn at a time with my 10mm ratcheting box wrench, took so long, but got it. I also removed the tube, and it made so much space to work to remove the harness, no issue with that, so much access once that tube was out of the way. Took me about 3 hrs with everything. Easiest just to remove the entire fender, take out the 5 screws, and take the entire thing off, not just the liner. Buy a kit with the plastic clips when you replace, put them in the fender first, then “stick” to the frame, so easy.
Brilliant zip tie tip. Worked perfectly. I wouldn't agree with "easy" but easier for sure! thank you
My Jeep wrangler jk was running rough up hill and your video was a great help thankyou!
Thanks Andy!
Thanks for this man! I’m going to swap mine this weekend, I know this is going to help A LOT!
thank you
After replacing my 2nd EGR valve on my 2011 JK (3.8 Automatic), I want to share a few tips that I learned the hard way.
This job is a pain as it is very hard to access the EGR valve. The key to making this job easier (or even possible) is to have the right tools and follow a particular sequence.
The following flexible locking head pass-thru wrench (GEARWRENCH 27 Pc. 1/4" Drive 6 Pt. Pass-Thru™ Mechanics Tool Set, Standard SAE/Metric - 891427) was a lifesaver the key to getting this job done correctly. If you use something else, you have a good chance of stripping the bolts and/or not being able to access a couple bolts at all. Note: they sell this ¼” drive wrench and 10mm socket separately for less $ but I bought the entire set. I HIGHLY recommend buying at least the flexible wrench and 10mm socket (the locking head mechanism and shallow body on this is a key to how it works so well in this application - also, only use 6 point sockets for this job to not strip the bolts.) The first time I replaced my EGR, I didn't have this and it took forever and I stripped a bolt. Worth every penny.
www.amazon.com/dp/B000NIAKJU?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Use a good worklight for this job.
1) From on top of the engine, remove (2) 8mm bolts holding the rigid silver tube that connects down to the side of the EGR. You will also use a 12mm socket to remove the bracket holding 2 rigid black plastic tubes (next to trans dipstick) and pop those tubes out of bracket (set bracket aside). Now remove 12mm bolt (under the bracket you just removed) holding he silver EGR tube down to valve cover.
2) Jack car up & remove front passenger side wheel. Use jack stands for safety as you will be reaching in through the passenger side wheel-well to do most of the work.
3) Using a trim removal tool, remove trim push nuts holding passenger side inner wheel well plastic cover and remove the wheel-well and gain access to the EGR. You can leave the plastic fender in place for this job. You should have new trim push barbs on hand as you will probably break these taking them out. They sell a pack of them on Amazon.
4) From wheel-well side, remove the (2) 8mm bolts holding the silver tube elbow to the EGR valve & lift tube out of vehicle from top of the engine side.
5) Trace the 3 spark plug wires from the passenger side of the engine over to where they plug in to the distributor block on the driver side of engine. Mark the three wires (1, 2, 3) with a sharpie or tape so you know where to replace them after you are done. Unplug the 3 spark plug wires from the distributor on driver side & pull though to passenger side of engine folding out of the way exposing the top of the EGR valve. (note how the wires are routed as it is sort of a pain to push them back through under all the tubes and wires when you want to reconnect them - you don't need to unplug from spark plugs and you can keep wires in the plastic bracket).
6) You can now see the top of the EGR valve and the wiring connector you will need to disconnect. Use a screwdriver or pick tool to push the red tab on connector toward the firewall of car. Then use a long screwdriver to push down on the black tab/middle back top of connector while pushing connector with a long needle nose pliers (or screwdriver) toward drivers side to release connector (note: you will not be able to remove the connector all the way yet because there is a stud bolt sticking up from the engine preventing the connector from sliding all the way off - as long as you release the connector and slide it a bit off you are good for now… taking it completely off occurs later).
7) From inside wheel-well, you will now use a 10mm socket to remove the lower bolt from the EGR valve. (Note: use only 6 point sockets and make sure they are seated correctly before trying to break these EGR bolts loose, you DO NOT WANT TO STRIP THESE BOLTS - make sure you are using 10MM and they are kept seated well on the bolt before using even pressure to break the bolts free - lefty looseny).
8) When the lower EGR bolt is removed. You will now take your hand and push the top of the EGR valve away from you to break free the hidden 2nd EGR bolt. Be careful to not get your fingers caught between the EGR and the trans dipstick tube. (you can also stick a rod/screwdriver into the hole on side of EGR for leverage but hand pressure worked for me).
9) With the EGR now moving, you can now angle the connector upward and detach the wire connector from the top side (much easier than doing from underneath).
10) You now NEED to get the dipstick tube moved toward the driver side slightly to be able to access the hidden EGR bolt. Some dipstick tubes are attached by a lower bracket which is in a real tight spot to remove. Near the EGR valve at firewall, you can see/feel a bracket with a 10mm bolt. You will need to access the bolt head from the firewall side (there are some rubber tubes at the firewall that get in the way but you can work around them). Using the 1/4" drive 10mm pass-thru wrench (linked above) saved me on this job. I locked the wrench head for a slight back-angle and using the 10mm socket and feeling with two hands was able to loosen the bracket bolt - be patient. One bracket bolt was disconnected, from the top side I used a strong bungee around the top of dipstick tube and pulled as far as I could toward drivers’ side and attached it to something. My hood was fully flipped back this whole time. This moved the dipstick tube a couple inches toward driver side and now allowed access to the final EGR bolt using the special pass-thru socket (linked above).
11) From the wheel-well, you can now use the 10mm pass-thru flexible head socket to access the final EGR bolt. You will need to remove the bolt by hand once it gets loose enough.
12) Reverse the procedure to install the new EGR using anti-seize on the bolt threads. Don't forget the gaskets. Don’t over-tighten bolts as you could break them off - just very snug.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
This was a game changer for me. Thanks!
Best video of this out there! I did one today and got it and thought about this!
Wow thank you so much!!!
Thank you sir. I'm getting a P0406 code. EGR is only year old about 30k miles Dorman. Bought my 07 JK new now has 451k miles. Going for 1 million. Awesome tip.
Thank you.. my egr failed in less than a year and I had to watch this video two weeks ago to see how I did it and replaced it in under one hour...
Wow 450,000 miles!! Love that!!
I'm going to be replacing my EGR and this video is a great help thanks
thanks!!
The carriage bolt with a nut idea was a great tip here along with the zip ties pulling the tube over towards the driver's side. BTW, the current prevailing tip in loosening that hidden EGR bolt is to push the top of the EGR valve towards the driver's side which will act as a counter-clockwise wrench on that bolt and will reveal it once it tips over far enough.....this assumes you already removed the top wire connector. Cheers!
Thank you!
I stuck a screwdriver in the openining, when i removed the 8mm screws and bottom 10mm screw, that gave me leverage to turn it, worked so good, screw loosened right up, took rest of way out with 10mm ratcheting 12pt box wrench, took a while, but worked.
Excellent work around!!
Thank you!!
@@ronstickle4694 Finally got around to changing mine, did learn some new words, took off the whole fender instead of just the inner, a 10" X 1/2" extension works real nice for the trans tube. I Hate Engineers! There I said it! Thanks again!
@@Daffyd92v Thank you!
Nice job, not a lot of fluff, get to the point and THANKS for helping others!
Thanks!!!
Can the valve be cleaned or do you have to replace it with a new one?
My 1/4 Ratchet is definitely thin, but the handle is not as long as the one you have. Do you think that will be an issue? Also, what size is that carriage bolt? Length and size of diameter does it have to be a super long one like you used?
Key #1 Dealer Tech, will be doing this job over, and over and over again This tells you it's a COMMON Problem
Key #2 Move the Dip Stick out of the way (if it's an Auto - Manuals DStick are on other side so should be fine)
Key #3 Make sure you have a Narrow / Thin Flex Head Socket Wrench
A I have been researching this issue, the EGRs are Junk, Cause Problems and need to be replaced, SOMETIMES you can reset the Engine Diagnostic and the EGR Problem will go away and resolve itself, this however, comes and goes
B You can save some DOLLARS by removing the EGR Valve, and CLEANING it, some suggest WD40 Soak for 5 hours, and then clean and dry, then reinstall and should not be an issue for awhile, or you may have wasted your time, some say it works, others claim they did and still ended up replacing it sooner rather than later, twice the hassle BUT if it does work, you save $100+ on part
Good Luck to you May 2023
Don’t forget to clean the EGR tube, this is also a culprit!
Good stuff thanks
thank you!
Hello a shop just replaced the egr valve and it’s ticking when I rev it was it put in wrong? It did remove the engine light but I’m thinking of removing it and inspecting it to see if there’s something wrong
Give me an update..
Find it out?
@@vaughnmcintyre6386 ok so the jeep shop that replaced the egr valve said the ticking must be from somewhere else but I swear I was hearing from that egr valve location. So I went ahead and took it to another shop and sure enough they tell me the egr was placed incorrectly so they went ahead and fixed that issue. So I ended up paying twice for the egr replacement
Excelente
Thank You!
wasnt there a bracket low on the dip stick tube stopping it from moving
I don't think so... But don't know... But what I did worked!
@@ronstickle4694 nope no bracket, it did help thank you
@@robertreddell7021 My pleasure
Just get one of those small breaker bar wratchets.
Do you happen to know the sizes of the bolts? I know there are 2 10mm and 2 8mm bolts but what are the lengths? I have a kit but it didn’t come with bolts and lack another vehicle. Can’t find information anywhere
Sorry...I chucked out the old ones...
Yeah, my 8mm bolts sheared taking them out, but inside the old valve, so not an issue. The Crown unit ($125) comes with replacement bolts and gaskets.
Hello, we are a amazon seller of Jeep Wrangler JK headlights. Would you like to test and review our products? We can send you our product sample.
Hello.. Lets start by you sending your Amazon product link to me here. I will take a look at it!
@@ronstickle4694 Please check our amazon product link as follow : www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B14NSRNJ