Using Toggle Bolts To Mount Trolling Motors (No Bow Access)
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- A toggle bolt works by anchoring itself to the back of the drywall, so when you put outward force on the bolt, the entire sheet of drywall resists it, not just the crumbly core. The two types of toggle bolts are the wing style and the strap style, which features a solid support bar that makes it easier to install.
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Thanks for watching :)
I am doing this today to my boat. I have stripped bolt holes and needed a better solution. I use these at work and knew this would hold well and seeing you use them just verified what I wanted to do. Thanks for posting.
Check back in let us know how it goes don’t forget to absolutely smoother those things in grease to fend off corrosion
Thanks again for this tip. I just installed my Minn Kota Fortrex using these toggle bolts last weekend. I took the boat out yesterday to try out the trolling motor and everything was solid. I feel these are way better then the rivet nuts that you can use. I was afraid the rivet nuts would eventually start spinning with all the vibration and just just hitting waves constantly. I feel these toggle bolts will hold up for the long haul. My friend that helped me install the trolling motor said these were a great invention. Thanks again!!!!
Thanks so much for the comment and u am so happy I could help out. Thanks for watching and checking out the video
Austin, just came across the video, awesome work. Bass Pro wanted a arm, leg and two toes to do this very thing. heading to Lowes now. awesome work
Thanks for watching!!!!
Thank Austin! Great video! This will help a lot on my swim ladder install on my PolarKraft.
Great idea, I dont have room to get my hands under the bow either, thanks alot, Rob
Thanks for watching DONT forget gaskets and silicone to keep water out
I use these toggle bolts for my ladder but never thought to use them for the trolling motor. This will save a lot of time since I’m doing it solo. Thanks
I hope this helps you, don’t forget to use gaskets! I wish I would’ve put those in the video
Just the video I was looking for. Thank You for doing such a Great job explaining all the steps. I have no idea how someone got a nut on the back of my current trolling motor setup. They had to have tiny arms and hands. I will sawzall off the bolts holding them on right now and then use the method that you just showed. I will install rubber gaskets like you mentioned. I believe in the Minn kota hardware kit it comes with it. Thanks again. Great Video!!!
Thanks for putting together this video. It was totally helpful to my situation.
Thank you for making this video. It helped out tremendously with installing my minn kota trolling motor.
Thanks for watching
For what its worth... You can go and get some 1/4-20 stainless bolts and replace the zinc bolts that the anchors came with. (or stainless metric bolts) That plus a healthy dose of sealant and you wont have to do this but every 5 years instead of every two. You can get stainless bolts just about anywhere. Just buy good quality as cheap ones tend to strip out easily. I get mine from a local bolt and screw store and you can purchase them for about a buck. The ones that Lowes and Academy sell are apparently made with Unicorn fur, fairy dust and gold thread to make them as expensive as they are in those stores!
Terrific advice thank you
Thanks for the tip! I ran into the same problem on my '16 Tracker 195TXW. No access and I'm sure they installed the factory trolling motor before the deck was on. Thank you for the great video!!
I hope this works for you, these lasted me two years, BARELY any wear on them and that’s WITHOUT applying silicone, thanks so much for checking out the video
@@fishingwithaustin8258 worked absolutely perfect!!! Thanks again!
So happy to hear that
I wonder if blue thread locker might be a better material than the silicon sealant? Just a thought. Looks great!
Yeah if it’s wards off corrosion better than by all means! I just like silicone for fighting corrosion best, the bolts backing out didn’t seem to be an issue
@fishingwithaustin8258 I've never tried it, it just seems like the sealant will get sticky and make it hard to back out the screws. Again, just thinking out loud! I'm totally going to steal your idea of the snap toggles!
Might even make a good video...wdyt?
one word of caution if you are using your boat in Salt Water, toggle bolts are usually not made out of Stainless Steel and will rust out.
That’s why I smother them in silicone sealant and replace no longer than 2 years old
Excellent and informative
Thank you so much
Thanks great video
Means the world to me thanks for watching
This is cool, was looking for something just like this. Just a heads up, you can buy 1/4" thick rubber washers for like .80 cents each at any hardware store instead of a gasket under your trolling motor plate. That's actually what my new trolling motor came with. I want to do this, would make my life a whole heck of a lot easier but my only concern is drilling a bigger hole in my deck for each of the toggle bolts then what is already there. Guess I can try this out, if it doesn't work I can always mount it on the other side. So after the motor settles there's no side to side movement in the motor due to the bigger holes you had to drill in the deck? That's my only concern. What LB thrust is your trolling motor? Thanks for the video.
Hey! Did this workout good for you trolling motor?
@@fishingwithaustin8258 bro this worked out amazingly for my trolling motor. I drilled 6 holes (1/2 inch) and mounted a 82lb Motorguide Tour Pro using 6 of the toggle bolts. Ive had my boat out about 12 times since using these and I will never use anything else. I had my trolling motor completely mounted in about 15 minutes. My front deck has a small space to reach in to try and tighten the bolts and Im so happy I never have to do that again. These toggle bolts are a life saver…i believe I got the highest weighted rated ones I could find at aprox 800lbs I think. Could be wrong on that but get the heaviest rated ones and you’ll be good. I could look up the rating if you want me to? Just let me know. Maybe it was 200lbs lol. I’ll look.
@@fishingwithaustin8258 hey the ones I used I got off Amazon and each bolt is rated for 270lbs each. I used 6 bolts for my motor and its solid. Doesn’t move at all. Super easy to install and 100% worth it. Tight lines man.
Yeah all you have to do is buy the heaviest duty ones for like 20$ you have a mounted trolling motor! They’re solid, I lifted the bow of my boat up by my trolling motor bracket, happy this worked I’m happy to hear it
@@fishingwithaustin8258 I was replyin on my phone and didn't realize I was talkin to the dood who made the video. Bro you saved my arm and like half a day for me. Seriously, I've put on 3 different trolling motors on my boat and because the hole is so small to put my arm through my arm is wrecked every time I've changed my motor. Had this done in 15 minutes, told several other people about this and 2 of them have done the same thing. I've done a trolling motor review and will be posting it soon on my channel and I'll put a link in the description to your video. At the time I was reviewing my trolling motor I couldn't remember your channels name but I'll link to your video. Not that it will make a difference but I'm gonna give you credit cause this was life saving! Well at least arm saving. Thanks again.
West Marine sells stainless steel toggle bolt backings that zip in like the non-stainless ones you used. Why the heck did you skip some sealant around the screws?
Very good info! Thanks for letting me know it will be used next video
Giving this a try as we speak - off to Lowe’s! I’ll let you know the end result…
Please let me know! Buy some gaskets to ensure water stays out
@@fishingwithaustin8258 Worked perfectly - genius👍 I actually had two round mounting plates that the gator mount fits onto. So I used the bolts for the mounting plates. It’s solid as a rock…
@@scottrogers5772 super happy to hear this worked for you.
do you push the anchor all the way to the bottom of the hill then snap it off or pull up on it and snap it off ?
All the way down snug then snap off
Great way to mount your trolling motor. I know you said you used toggle bolts, but what type were those you used? Thanks, Steve
Hey Steve, I used the most heavy duty ones I could find at Lowe’s, I believe they were 1/4”? Just whatever fits those holes best
@@fishingwithaustin8258 Thanks for the reply my friend. Steve
Why don’t you use SS bolts ?
These are stainless steel, it says it on the pack.
Just curious as to why your trolling motor hangs so far out to the right side one?
How the prior owner originally mounted it
It has to so the shaft can clear the edge of the boat.
@@trentc6069 well it’s cleared the two years I’ve had it so that’s good lol
What about the very from 2 bolts? Did you use the toggle bolts for that as well? And do you know what the original size bit you used to drill the holes?
Since the very front is to close for them to penetrate we ended up sealing those, for the drill bit size I’m unsure we just used a standard Phillips head bit that fit the bolts nice and snug to ensure no slipping
@@fishingwithaustin8258 okay thanks! I was able to find a stainless toggle at Ace and that worked for 1 of them. I appreciate it!
@@limousinlover I’m happy this helped you! Thank you for watching the video
What volt size troll motor you running and what do you recommend 12v or 20v cause I talk to some about a 12v but sometimes if they wind is kinda moving they said on a 12v battery doesn’t last as long
Compared to a 24 volt yes a 12 volt doesn’t last as long. Always buy according to the conditions you anticipate fishing, and then go above that a little bit.
I have a 24 volt because I fish saltwater and inlets and it is plenty of power to hold my hot with spot lock.
I recommend 24 volt, you’ll take on a little extra weight but your trolling motor will be more powerful and last longer. They also have 12/24 trolling motors where you can activate 24 volts as needed but run 12 volt when you don’t need 24 volt. You can run your batteries in a series and last as long as a 24 volt with a 12 volt. Pretty cool stuff!
So you make me go and slide my card. I was thinking on how to install it now I know. How do you conect it to the battery if you dont have access?
I’m a bit confused could you reword exactly what you need me to answer please
I have a center console and im thinking to hide the wires but I have the same problem you have. I don't have access to the hall. I will like to have the battery in the center console with the othe ones but can't run cables through.
Do you need silicon if you have the anchors
The best method I would go with is a rubber mat under the mount, if you don’t have one then I would silicone around the edges.
how long were the bolts ?
If they’re the standard ones from Lowe’s I’d say around 5”
Good idea
Thanks so much!
This is a terrible solution and has set me back now quite a bit. Most fiberglass hulls have wood inside them which doesn't allow enough clearance for the wings to expand. Nor is the plastic strong enough. For a 1/4" you'll have to drill at least a 1/32" hole which is unnecessarily large.
Yeah I mean that’s your opinion, it isn’t an end all be all solution. My hull is composite with no wood, so yeah a terrible solution FOR YOU perhaps. Mine have lasted two years salt and fresh. Sorry to break it to you!
Also it isn’t plastic holding it, the plastic is just to line up and hold steady until you torque the steel bolt to the steel anchor you insert down in the hole, did you see it in the video?
Does not matter what kind of material it is. 😂
@@russelldevane5434 regardless mine have stood the test of time 🤪
@Fishing With Austin Yep. Great solution to a big problem. Used them on mine and it worked perfect.